Really enjoy watching a craftsman with a very high attention to detail. There are not many of you guys left so keep shouting about it my man ! The finish looks great !
@@GreentopLandscapesjust doing my garden at the minute. Got decking framework arriving tomorrow. Got a small area to pave when done and I really that tile. Probably can't afford it to be fair. And dont have the specialist tools. But damn it looks good. Keep posting my man ! 👍
Very nice Johnny boy coming together lovely never use self levelling system you can't beat old school ways touch system making sure all 4 corners are flush you can't go wrong keep up good work 👍
Enjoy watching all your videos and have learned a lot. I am currently laying a patio and opted to use the screw tile leveling system. I must disagree with your comment about them lifting the tiles. I found if you fit them and tighten them progressively as you knock the tiles down to the correct level they stop the tiles from lifting back up, particularly in the opposite corners as you tap down. I don't think they have the ability to lift a tile back up if you knocked it down below the surrounding tiles, they'd snap off. They don't level by themselves, they simply help to hold the tile once you've leveled it properly with a mallet. Sort of belt and braces approach. As a person laying their first porcelain patio, I've found they give peace of mind, knowing the corners are held firm. The biggest disadvantage is they get in the way of the string lines! I'm laying tiles towards a channel drain already in place and using string lines works better for me than solely using a level as everything must fall correctly to the channel drain or the job will be a flop. You have helped me enormously. Thank you for your videos.
@@GreentopLandscapes Hello again, I have been following your advice set out in a video where you tap the tile almost into place (maybe 3mm higher) and then lift it up again to check the bond. I then fill any dips in the cement. Next prime the tile, fit the 'locking nut stems' and re-install the tile tapping down and tightening the nuts until the final level is achieved. Since this is the only way I've done it, it's possible the nuts aren't necessary, but for a first timer, they give peace of mind knowing the tile wont move (maybe it wouldn't anyway). Maybe people like me with less experience are the target consumer? If I had your experience i'd save the money lol. Thanks for a wonderful channel and for answering my comment. I really like your layout designs and material combinations. Cheers, stay safe.
@@dembydish Hi, may I ask which website you bought the 'screw tile leveling system' from? or what is the name of the product please? I am laying a patio with 20mm thickness porcelain slabs and 5mm joint, but there are many lipping problem due to the slightly bent slabs. I found some levelling system online but they are all for up to 12mm thickness and 2-3mm joint.
@@jianyu3756 Hello Jian, I purchased the SHMOX tile leveling twister system from Amazon UK. There are 2 parts which are purchased separately because the orange nut is reusable, the screw part which goes under the tile breaks off and is not reusable. I used them with 7 mm spacers and 20mm porcelain which was more like 18mm. The screws break easily even when tightening and there was some wastage. They will not level anything, this is misrepresentation. Use them as a belt and braces approach and level with a rubber mallet, string lines and a long spirit level. If you've got large 60x60cm tiles buy a vacuum pump type suction cup available through Amazon, this will help you place the tiles correctly and lift them up again for priming. It's hard work but I got excellent results. Good luck.
I think with them self leveling kits if you make a wet enough mix you can get the suction still if it moves it say 1mm or 2mm, I haven't tried them yet but I'm learning every day and up for trying anything to improve myself!
How thick is the bed of mortar for porcelain and does it differ from, say indian sandstone. Doing my own project now thanks to you Jonny. Love your honesty and enthusiam.Great Work.
thanks bud really appreciate your feedback, I try not to lay any thinner than 25mm but avoid going more than 50mm if I can help as it becomes more expensive, so the work is n the prep my friend, be safe
Very nice job and video. I am laying some 900*450*20mm porcelain slabs, I wish I'd seen this before started. Because some slabs bend a bit, there are lippings (2-3mm) as you mentioned in this video. Any suggestions to resolve this please? I'd like to keep the stackbond style. Though the self leveling system may resovle the 'leveling' problem, it seems you don't recommond it because of the void? How big problem (e.g freeze thaw effect) could be caused by these 1-2mm spot void? Many thanks.
I highly recommend the blades from Elite Stone. I've been using their 350mm diameter Super Thin Mesh blade to cut 20mm Porcelain all week with no problems at all. Using lots of cooling water they produce nice sharp clean cuts, no chipping, no vibration, and a real good price too. Johnny boy - you'd better add them to your suppliers list ?
Have you seen the rubi tc 125 track saw for stone? Would be perfect for cutting those little slithers off when the tile is in situ to make your 4mm gap. Seen another chanel on RUclips use one or something similar and seems to make things so much easier 👍
Not at all it delaminates through the evaporation you need slurry it’s called a bridge bond bonding the mortar to the paving, cobbles we’re done this way for years even though there a dense unit, to much water in any mortar is detrimental to the success. Mortar needs to be semi dry in order to have a dense mix.
Really enjoy watching a craftsman with a very high attention to detail. There are not many of you guys left so keep shouting about it my man ! The finish looks great !
Thanks 👍 Ali mate thats kind of you
@@GreentopLandscapesjust doing my garden at the minute. Got decking framework arriving tomorrow. Got a small area to pave when done and I really that tile. Probably can't afford it to be fair. And dont have the specialist tools. But damn it looks good. Keep posting my man ! 👍
Great to see someone taking real pride in their work. Going to look fantastic.
Fingers crossed! thanks Jack
always help to inspire me to become landscaper, big fan Johnny Boy
Thats really nice of you mate thanks a lot Jacob
Absolutely cracking Johnny boy 👌
o Mark mate thanks
Very nice Johnny boy coming together lovely never use self levelling system you can't beat old school ways touch system making sure all 4 corners are flush you can't go wrong keep up good work 👍
Right on
Beltin job by the A team Jonny boy 👍👏👏
lol, thanks Anthony
Lovely job, thanks for the tips and advise
You are so welcome!
Very enjoyable to watch
Glad you enjoyed it
Top job again lads real attention to detail 👌
Thanks 👍
Enjoy watching all your videos and have learned a lot. I am currently laying a patio and opted to use the screw tile leveling system. I must disagree with your comment about them lifting the tiles. I found if you fit them and tighten them progressively as you knock the tiles down to the correct level they stop the tiles from lifting back up, particularly in the opposite corners as you tap down. I don't think they have the ability to lift a tile back up if you knocked it down below the surrounding tiles, they'd snap off. They don't level by themselves, they simply help to hold the tile once you've leveled it properly with a mallet. Sort of belt and braces approach. As a person laying their first porcelain patio, I've found they give peace of mind, knowing the corners are held firm. The biggest disadvantage is they get in the way of the string lines! I'm laying tiles towards a channel drain already in place and using string lines works better for me than solely using a level as everything must fall correctly to the channel drain or the job will be a flop. You have helped me enormously. Thank you for your videos.
Ok no worries your entitled but why don’t you try one or two by lifting the slab
@@GreentopLandscapes Hello again, I have been following your advice set out in a video where you tap the tile almost into place (maybe 3mm higher) and then lift it up again to check the bond. I then fill any dips in the cement. Next prime the tile, fit the 'locking nut stems' and re-install the tile tapping down and tightening the nuts until the final level is achieved. Since this is the only way I've done it, it's possible the nuts aren't necessary, but for a first timer, they give peace of mind knowing the tile wont move (maybe it wouldn't anyway). Maybe people like me with less experience are the target consumer? If I had your experience i'd save the money lol. Thanks for a wonderful channel and for answering my comment. I really like your layout designs and material combinations. Cheers, stay safe.
@@dembydish Hi, may I ask which website you bought the 'screw tile leveling system' from? or what is the name of the product please? I am laying a patio with 20mm thickness porcelain slabs and 5mm joint, but there are many lipping problem due to the slightly bent slabs. I found some levelling system online but they are all for up to 12mm thickness and 2-3mm joint.
@@jianyu3756 Hello Jian, I purchased the SHMOX tile leveling twister system from Amazon UK. There are 2 parts which are purchased separately because the orange nut is reusable, the screw part which goes under the tile breaks off and is not reusable. I used them with 7 mm spacers and 20mm porcelain which was more like 18mm. The screws break easily even when tightening and there was some wastage. They will not level anything, this is misrepresentation. Use them as a belt and braces approach and level with a rubber mallet, string lines and a long spirit level. If you've got large 60x60cm tiles buy a vacuum pump type suction cup available through Amazon, this will help you place the tiles correctly and lift them up again for priming. It's hard work but I got excellent results. Good luck.
@@dembydish Thanks a lot. Glad to hear you have achieved perfect results!
I think with them self leveling kits if you make a wet enough mix you can get the suction still if it moves it say 1mm or 2mm, I haven't tried them yet but I'm learning every day and up for trying anything to improve myself!
I agree Ashley
Is that building sand or sharp sand cement mix your laying the porcelain slabs on?
Enjoying the videos Mate 👍
Glad to hear it
How thick is the bed of mortar for porcelain and does it differ from, say indian sandstone. Doing my own project now thanks to you Jonny. Love your honesty and enthusiam.Great Work.
thanks bud really appreciate your feedback, I try not to lay any thinner than 25mm but avoid going more than 50mm if I can help as it becomes more expensive, so the work is n the prep my friend, be safe
Very nice job and video. I am laying some 900*450*20mm porcelain slabs, I wish I'd seen this before started. Because some slabs bend a bit, there are lippings (2-3mm) as you mentioned in this video. Any suggestions to resolve this please? I'd like to keep the stackbond style.
Though the self leveling system may resovle the 'leveling' problem, it seems you don't recommond it because of the void? How big problem (e.g freeze thaw effect) could be caused by these 1-2mm spot void? Many thanks.
Glad it helped I think with Planks as they are so long you can get lipping always happy to discuss on the phone
I highly recommend the blades from Elite Stone. I've been using their 350mm diameter Super Thin Mesh blade to cut 20mm Porcelain all week with no problems at all. Using lots of cooling water they produce nice sharp clean cuts, no chipping, no vibration, and a real good price too.
Johnny boy - you'd better add them to your suppliers list ?
Thanks for the tip! suppliers list it is, be safe mate
Have you seen the rubi tc 125 track saw for stone? Would be perfect for cutting those little slithers off when the tile is in situ to make your 4mm gap. Seen another chanel on RUclips use one or something similar and seems to make things so much easier 👍
great point I have the 125
What colour are the raised beds? Looks nice.i find white a bit too bright
I agree
So what colour?!
Very nice
Thanks
Looks fantastic, may I ask what porcelain tile you used?
Its called Tiber
Do you use more slabs using planks instead of larger ones
little more waste I think, good point
@@GreentopLandscapes thank you, pity your so busy!
New Subscriber Johnny Boy great vids. How slippery, if at all, is that porcelain when wet? Looks an amazing product.
Thanks for the sub! no more than any other wearing course, it has an R 11 rating, be safe
helpfull video, where is a good placeto buy these wood effect tiles. cheers
Martin mate they were from Cardiff Slate and Stone
@@GreentopLandscapes Thanks
Is it sharp sand or building sand you use ?
Sahrp John mate
Should definitely of done a finished video on this 👍
That's the plan!
What are those orange line holders?
Thy are standard building blocks my friend
@@GreentopLandscapes there was me thinking they were something more specialist
Looks superb Johnny 😊 can I ask where you get your porcelain from prices vary so much on it left me little confused 😳
So Many suppliers out there mate its a Mind field
Thats right fella,forget the levelling system and carry on leaving bacon slicers in,or your lipping system!
Wha are you on about?
if you mix is wet enough you wont get separation with the clips
You will sooner than you think clips won’t stop rapid evaporation ever where do you think all that moisture go?
@@GreentopLandscapes how can u get seperation when a heavy 20mm slab is sitting on the mix ? It has to be a wet mix like bricklaying
Not at all it delaminates through the evaporation you need slurry it’s called a bridge bond bonding the mortar to the paving, cobbles we’re done this way for years even though there a dense unit, to much water in any mortar is detrimental to the success. Mortar needs to be semi dry in order to have a dense mix.
@@GreentopLandscapes yes100 % needs slurry primer
Your right priming is a must don’t you think?
👍👌🏽🙏
Hi Johnny boy, great work as always love your channel, do you have a email address?
What's up? yes I do info@greentoplandscapes.co.uk