Nicely done Get ur self some long bolts of the same threads cut the heads off Lightly screw the am in the block one each side Just slide gear box on gives good support and aliment Put some bolts on Unscrew ur fitting bolts/tool U can slit the ends to fit a screwdriver if tight to remove Takes the weight off working by ur self
Brings back memories from replacing an engine in my old integrale. Thanks for the upload. Luckily I had a mate who knew way more than me to get through the project.
That click when the gearbox mates up to the block is such a satisfying feeling! I had to manhandle my Volvo M66 gearbox (a lot bigger than the little Fiat one there) to my ST engine in the car, past a subframe I did not know I had to drop which would have made the whole job a lot easier!
Chipped paint and dents also help you in heavy traffic because the other guy makes way knowing you won't mind getting a fourth dent as much as he minds getting his first dent.
We had a similar problem with the gearbox dowel pin on my mates t4, I ended up with a sharp flat screwdriver and hammering it for about 45 minutes until it split enough to pull it out, gearbox slipped straight on after that. My mate had been trying to get it to fit up for about 2 days and had completely missed it.😊
Thanks, Paul. Yeah the complexity of these cars crazy really. You might be pleased to know that I’ve already got the next project and it was built in 1993, so hopefully less complex 😅
Great job on refitting that twinair engine, you made it look a lot easier than I thought it would be! I've watched a few of your videos as I have the same engine in my Fiat Panda 4x4 and it gives me a better understanding of where everything is on that engine than anything I can find on the Web, as you know there is not much documented about this cracking little engine out there! So I've added your channel and clicked the thumbs up 👍 Thanks for sharing.
Thanks bud. I have to say that it’s been an easier engine to work on than the Mini R53 I did last, but that’s probably down to the fact that it’s so small
@@NotEconomicallyViable It looks easier to work on out of the car, I can imagine it being a bit cramped while it's in the car, more so than my Panda 🐼 Appreciate all the time and effort you're going to filming, editing and sharing this. 👍 It really is a big help to me and many other owners.
Great job on getting the new Heart back in Nino - just about to watch the follow-up vid which has just come through, and will further update you with my own feedback on working on Fiat 500’s in the comments for that - that comment on its’ own should be fair warning ! Keep ‘em comin’
Well done Nino, I've been enjoying your videos and its great to see you going to the lengths of engine out jobs on your cars! A couple of times I thought about doing this on my Capri to sort all the problems out but never quite had the space to do it. Well done, looking forward to seeing your next project!
Thank you, mate. I only have that one little parking space, so it’s been a kind of ‘where there’s a will there’s a way’ kind of endeavour! If you ever find the space just go for it. Also, a Capri 😍
@@NotEconomicallyViable totally with you, it’s great what your doing man. I did used to have a small driveway so took all the suspension off on both my cars etc… back to working in the road at the moment which I haven’t done in years haha. The Capri is pretty simple to work on luckily and most of the big stuff is done now.
great job i would of used a jack and a block of wood to move the gearbox back in place but in all you have done a very good job and saved loads on garage bills keep up with the good work
The transmission jack was within reach, so was just being lazy lol. It definitely wasn’t the correct tool haha. Someone told me in the comments that they have a Fiat 500 that needs an engine swap and they were quoted about £2,500 😮 so yeah I’ve saved loads!
You should definitely watch Rainman Rays repairs channel on RUclips. I have learned alot watching his videos preforming repairs and maintenance on every make a model available in the US market. Very well put together videos and he is excellent at explaing his process. Can't wait to hear the fiat run.
Nice! Nice to open up RUclips and see a new Nino video to enjoy. Three posts a week is a tall order Nino. Shoot for one post a week and anything over that is a bonus. With that stated, based on your grunt at 19:08 while reaching for a bell housing bolt maybe produce one video a week that is a “Mechanics Yoga for flexibility” video. I am older than you but I will be honest - I have stretched before some Mini R53 work. I didn’t stretch before replacing the front brakes on my wife’s 3.2L Audi Q5 and I was sore for a week (that was before I bought my Milwaukee Impact Wrench). Doing stuff without a proper car lift you end up drag your arse off the concrete enough it qualifies as a workout - no matter what my Apple Watch tells me…
Haha that made me chuckle. Funny thing is that yoga for car mechanics would be genuinely useful 😅 I’ve actually engineered this whole thing to make sure that producing three videos a week isn’t actually that difficult. I only film what I happen to be doing that day. There’s no planning, scripting, or setup. I don’t use any fancy equipment - just a point and shoot camera where I never change the settings. No fancy slow-motion in the videos, no graphics, effects, and very rarely even any music! It takes me three hours on average to edit a video, and that’s the main effort really, which isn’t too bad 👍🏻
@@NotEconomicallyViable It is the editing that kills me. I can shoot all day filling SD cards but the edit is brutal for me. I will switch away from iMovie to Final Cut Pro soon. Maybe that switch will help my workflow. More power to you but three videos at three hours each so nine total hours to edit is a full days work each week. Keep in mind your cat isn’t going to entertain itself. Editing time takes away from your cat entertainment commitments. The cat might start hiding your 10MM sockets. 😜
Before you bolt the front clip and everything on make sure it starts if it starts turn it off not long after at least then if something wrong not gonna take a lot of stuff back off
You're doing just fine too- it's unfortunate that you had to source another turbo and faff about making the new engine the same spec as the old. If you find the CAT won't clean out and is blocked you could of course just knock the matrix out (don't bin it...it's worth money) try it through an emissions test..it might pass...if it doesn't sticking a new cat on it won't take long and if it works it will save you a good few quid.
Dealing with the faff doesn’t bother me too much. I’m not really in this whole endeavour for the money at this point - I’m all about the learning, and I’ve learned loads doing it 👍🏻 Yeah I’m interested to see how the CAT is when I get the engine going. Will put the car through an MOT so that’ll tell me for sure! Thanks for all the advice bud 🙌🏻
Great work 👍when you do come to start the engine disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank it over to getvthe oil flowing round engine before firing it up
Nino, did you not try the missing bell housing bolt in your engine stand? All turbos have a small amount of play in them as standard as the oil takes up the play as the pressure builds up and the impeller shaft runs on a cushion of oil between it and the bearings. Keep up the good work i look forward to the next installment..
No I put all the bolts into separate baggies because they all had different cable brackets on them… oh well. Ahhh thanks for that turbo info. I’d like to do a high-performance turbo at some point on the channel, so all this info will be put to good use
Hello, I found this video very helpful. I found some oil in the reservoir coolant (I just replaced it) , it's gotten dirty with some rust and a bit of oil. Where do you think it's coming from? Perhaps the oil cooler or cyclinder head gasket? Thanks :)
He Nino, Another good video, you looked like you struggled with lining the gearbox up while pushing up. Be easier to sling the engine higher on the gearbox side & let gravity help you align it. Also you can get an attachment to engine cranes that makes it easier to change the angle of the engine tho.. Also Ste_4439 had a good idea with the bolts... Going to try that on mine when my box comes out.... 👍
Yeah Ste 4439’s idea is cracking… definitely gonna give that a go next time. Just did a bit of Googling and found an engine balancer - guessing that’s what you mean?
Hi, from your experience taking it all apart, do you think it's possible to replace the engine mounts without removing the engine? I'm getting a lot of vibration from RPM transmitting through to the gearstick even with the clutch held in.
You had some papers in the video when mounting the turbo...where are these from? The page you mentioned in the desciption has a 500 workshop manual but that has only the 1.4l engines in it. Can you share the documents you could find about the Twinair? Thanks for the videos!
I never ended up finding any in-depth TwinAir-specific documentation. The closest I came was signing up for the trial version of Autodata, which had the bare minimum. I then used the 1.4 documentation for anything on the car that wasn't the engine. It was a real pain to be honest with you.
@@NotEconomicallyViable I also do not understand why there is nothing about the Twinair engines. They are sold here in germany often, too. There is a elearn CD from Fiat but also nothing about the Twinair. Now where they no longer offer this engine I'm afraid there will also be nothing in the future. What are the costs for autodata? You have to pay for a time period, right? Thanks again!
Yeah it's a shame - I don't know why Fiat haven't made the information available. You can get Autodata for free for a month (which is what I did), but after that it's really expensive - something like €100 a month. It's aimed at garages rather than individuals unfortunately.
Unless you have a balancing machine DO NOT strip the compressor wheel off the turbo shaf because the turbine and compressor wheels are balanced once mounted into the bearing housing and to balance them up precisely they grind off material off either the compressor or turbine wheels to balance it and if you undo the left hand nut on the compressor wheel and move the wheel then it will be out of balance and after a short period of running it will self destruct itself. As for checking a turbo for play/wear just grip the shaft and pull it in and out and if it moves then it has wear a bit of up and down movement is fine because a mass produced turbo doesn't have bearings inside them the turbo shaft runs on bronze bushings and the little bit of up and down play you feel is taken up by the high pressure oil so the turbine shaft floats on a thin film of oil.
@NotEconomicallyViable Thank you enjoying the videos I have been a mechanic for 35 years yes it gets easyer but still have struggles daily cars and women are a nightmare lol
It's refreshing to see an enthusiast working on economy cars, since most work on sports and muscle cars, and see mistakes from which I can learn, which is the best way to learn; however the smallest engines like this 2 air, I don't think are available in the USA, where even 3 cylinder cars are rare and 2 cylinder cars almost nonexistent. I do think you pay too much attention to aesthetics as I can't say I care weather your ugly econobox gets keyed or not because it's ugly regardless and keying is rarely an entry point for structural rot. It's gravel kicked up by the tires and hitting the underside that does that and needs to be touched up and/or spray waxed. though if your guppymouth Metro got keyed I would be upset.
He must mean to get the oil pressure up so the bearings are well lubed... Easy to do, crank with the fuel pump fuse out for 30 sec that should do it... Good luck...
Ahh right. Yeah I was gonna do that anyway like with the Mini. I was looking online and seen some people actually undoing the oil feed line, placing the end in a cup and cranking the engine to make sure the turbo is definitely receiving oil
@@NotEconomicallyViable bit overkill that, maybe if you have built a race engine or you think you have an oil pump problem, but your turbo has already been used so is pre lubed & with the pre crank you can watch for the oil pressure dash light to go out. You could also pre fill the turbo feed aperture & manually spin the compressor wheel but again bit overkill for what your doing. PS: still think your old turbo was good, put a new intercooler on mine, new charge pipes, ran it for 100 miles & then changed to a noise maker delete & the oil has made it all the way to the hose feeding the throttle body. Oil came from the PCV's & is normal... You felt no back lash when you checked the turbo, a knackard turbo has play you would have felt...
No need to buy whole turbo. Everyone always buys a full unit when the seals go(oil leak). Just buy the turbo core (chra) it's only about 50quid for that turbo and takes 20 mins to swap it out. 👍👍
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Nicely done
Get ur self some long bolts of the same threads cut the heads off
Lightly screw the am in the block one each side
Just slide gear box on gives good support and aliment
Put some bolts on
Unscrew ur fitting bolts/tool
U can slit the ends to fit a screwdriver if tight to remove
Takes the weight off working by ur self
That’s such a great idea - definitely gonna give this a go. Cheers mate 👍🏻
A great idea to align the gearbox! Cheers.
Great idea 👍👍👍
Brings back memories from replacing an engine in my old integrale. Thanks for the upload. Luckily I had a mate who knew way more than me to get through the project.
The guy on the South Main Auto Utube channel says “If I can do it YOU can do it “ ,I think you have taken that to a new level .
Haha yes I love that!
Another cracking video Nino. I'm watching them all. You're inspiring me to go to evening classes at college at 40! 😊
That click when the gearbox mates up to the block is such a satisfying feeling! I had to manhandle my Volvo M66 gearbox (a lot bigger than the little Fiat one there) to my ST engine in the car, past a subframe I did not know I had to drop which would have made the whole job a lot easier!
My favourite sound too mate it’s like thank god for that
Far easier doing a clutch when engine is not in the bay, good man for changing it!!!!
🙌🏻
2:48 So, that's what a shakedown test looks like !
Chipped paint and dents also help you in heavy traffic because the other guy makes way knowing you won't mind getting a fourth dent as much as he minds getting his first dent.
Your channel is great , you have given me the confidence to carry work on my own car thank you. Please keep the content coming love it
That’s so good to hear. It really isn’t that difficult once you take the jump. Everything is just nuts and bolts when you think about it!
We had a similar problem with the gearbox dowel pin on my mates t4, I ended up with a sharp flat screwdriver and hammering it for about 45 minutes until it split enough to pull it out, gearbox slipped straight on after that. My mate had been trying to get it to fit up for about 2 days and had completely missed it.😊
Well done so far, modern cars are so complicated but this engine is easy for beginner car mechanics. Great personality to go with the video's to.
Thanks, Paul. Yeah the complexity of these cars crazy really. You might be pleased to know that I’ve already got the next project and it was built in 1993, so hopefully less complex 😅
Great job on refitting that twinair engine, you made it look a lot easier than I thought it would be!
I've watched a few of your videos as I have the same engine in my Fiat Panda 4x4 and it gives me a better understanding of where everything is on that engine than anything I can find on the Web, as you know there is not much documented about this cracking little engine out there!
So I've added your channel and clicked the thumbs up 👍
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks bud. I have to say that it’s been an easier engine to work on than the Mini R53 I did last, but that’s probably down to the fact that it’s so small
@@NotEconomicallyViable It looks easier to work on out of the car, I can imagine it being a bit cramped while it's in the car, more so than my Panda 🐼
Appreciate all the time and effort you're going to filming, editing and sharing this. 👍
It really is a big help to me and many other owners.
Great job on getting the new Heart back in Nino - just about to watch the follow-up vid which has just come through, and will further update you with my own feedback on working on Fiat 500’s in the comments for that - that comment on its’ own should be fair warning ! Keep ‘em comin’
24:23 You can get a levelling beam for your crane that will give you all the adjustment you need for future engine swaps.
Will take a look into that 👍🏻
Bravo Nino. You made that look remarkably easy. Your capabilities are starting to get beyond my own. Engrossing stuff 🙂
Ha cheers Damien 👍🏻
Well done Nino, I've been enjoying your videos and its great to see you going to the lengths of engine out jobs on your cars! A couple of times I thought about doing this on my Capri to sort all the problems out but never quite had the space to do it. Well done, looking forward to seeing your next project!
Thank you, mate. I only have that one little parking space, so it’s been a kind of ‘where there’s a will there’s a way’ kind of endeavour! If you ever find the space just go for it. Also, a Capri 😍
@@NotEconomicallyViable totally with you, it’s great what your doing man. I did used to have a small driveway so took all the suspension off on both my cars etc… back to working in the road at the moment which I haven’t done in years haha. The Capri is pretty simple to work on luckily and most of the big stuff is done now.
Well done. Great to see how your learning on the job.
great job i would of used a jack and a block of wood to move the gearbox back in place but in all you have done a very good job and saved loads on garage bills keep up with the good work
The transmission jack was within reach, so was just being lazy lol. It definitely wasn’t the correct tool haha. Someone told me in the comments that they have a Fiat 500 that needs an engine swap and they were quoted about £2,500 😮 so yeah I’ve saved loads!
You should definitely watch Rainman Rays repairs channel on RUclips. I have learned alot watching his videos preforming repairs and maintenance on every make a model available in the US market. Very well put together videos and he is excellent at explaing his process.
Can't wait to hear the fiat run.
I’ve give it a watch, thanks bud 👍🏻
Nice! Nice to open up RUclips and see a new Nino video to enjoy.
Three posts a week is a tall order Nino. Shoot for one post a week and anything over that is a bonus.
With that stated, based on your grunt at 19:08 while reaching for a bell housing bolt maybe produce one video a week that is a “Mechanics Yoga for flexibility” video. I am older than you but I will be honest - I have stretched before some Mini R53 work. I didn’t stretch before replacing the front brakes on my wife’s 3.2L Audi Q5 and I was sore for a week (that was before I bought my Milwaukee Impact Wrench).
Doing stuff without a proper car lift you end up drag your arse off the concrete enough it qualifies as a workout - no matter what my Apple Watch tells me…
Haha that made me chuckle. Funny thing is that yoga for car mechanics would be genuinely useful 😅
I’ve actually engineered this whole thing to make sure that producing three videos a week isn’t actually that difficult. I only film what I happen to be doing that day. There’s no planning, scripting, or setup. I don’t use any fancy equipment - just a point and shoot camera where I never change the settings. No fancy slow-motion in the videos, no graphics, effects, and very rarely even any music! It takes me three hours on average to edit a video, and that’s the main effort really, which isn’t too bad 👍🏻
@@NotEconomicallyViable It is the editing that kills me. I can shoot all day filling SD cards but the edit is brutal for me. I will switch away from iMovie to Final Cut Pro soon. Maybe that switch will help my workflow.
More power to you but three videos at three hours each so nine total hours to edit is a full days work each week. Keep in mind your cat isn’t going to entertain itself. Editing time takes away from your cat entertainment commitments. The cat might start hiding your 10MM sockets. 😜
Before you bolt the front clip and everything on make sure it starts if it starts turn it off not long after at least then if something wrong not gonna take a lot of stuff back off
Great video - hopefully your hard work will pay off when you turn the key 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Paul - let’s hope so 😅
like the sound effects you provide !!
Really good enjoyable content yet again 👍 Thank you Nino .
Thanks Paul 👍🏻
well done mate...you are getting there...
You're doing just fine too- it's unfortunate that you had to source another turbo and faff about making the new engine the same spec as the old.
If you find the CAT won't clean out and is blocked you could of course just knock the matrix out (don't bin it...it's worth money) try it through an emissions test..it might pass...if it doesn't sticking a new cat on it won't take long and if it works it will save you a good few quid.
Dealing with the faff doesn’t bother me too much. I’m not really in this whole endeavour for the money at this point - I’m all about the learning, and I’ve learned loads doing it 👍🏻
Yeah I’m interested to see how the CAT is when I get the engine going. Will put the car through an MOT so that’ll tell me for sure! Thanks for all the advice bud 🙌🏻
Great work 👍when you do come to start the engine disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank it over to getvthe oil flowing round engine before firing it up
Cheers, bud. Will definitely do that 👍🏻
Really impressive
Nino, did you not try the missing bell housing bolt in your engine stand? All turbos have a small amount of play in them as standard as the oil takes up the play as the pressure builds up and the impeller shaft runs on a cushion of oil between it and the bearings. Keep up the good work i look forward to the next installment..
No I put all the bolts into separate baggies because they all had different cable brackets on them… oh well.
Ahhh thanks for that turbo info. I’d like to do a high-performance turbo at some point on the channel, so all this info will be put to good use
Hello, I found this video very helpful. I found some oil in the reservoir coolant (I just replaced it) , it's gotten dirty with some rust and a bit of oil. Where do you think it's coming from? Perhaps the oil cooler or cyclinder head gasket? Thanks :)
He Nino, Another good video, you looked like you struggled with lining the gearbox up while pushing up. Be easier to sling the engine higher on the gearbox side & let gravity help you align it. Also you can get an attachment to engine cranes that makes it easier to change the angle of the engine tho..
Also Ste_4439 had a good idea with the bolts...
Going to try that on mine when my box comes out.... 👍
Yeah Ste 4439’s idea is cracking… definitely gonna give that a go next time. Just did a bit of Googling and found an engine balancer - guessing that’s what you mean?
@@NotEconomicallyViable... yes mate, gets the engine in the right position for whatever your doing 👍
Great progress man 👍😎
🙌🏻
Hi, from your experience taking it all apart, do you think it's possible to replace the engine mounts without removing the engine? I'm getting a lot of vibration from RPM transmitting through to the gearstick even with the clutch held in.
You had some papers in the video when mounting the turbo...where are these from? The page you mentioned in the desciption has a 500 workshop manual but that has only the 1.4l engines in it. Can you share the documents you could find about the Twinair? Thanks for the videos!
I never ended up finding any in-depth TwinAir-specific documentation. The closest I came was signing up for the trial version of Autodata, which had the bare minimum. I then used the 1.4 documentation for anything on the car that wasn't the engine. It was a real pain to be honest with you.
@@NotEconomicallyViable I also do not understand why there is nothing about the Twinair engines. They are sold here in germany often, too. There is a elearn CD from Fiat but also nothing about the Twinair. Now where they no longer offer this engine I'm afraid there will also be nothing in the future.
What are the costs for autodata? You have to pay for a time period, right? Thanks again!
Yeah it's a shame - I don't know why Fiat haven't made the information available. You can get Autodata for free for a month (which is what I did), but after that it's really expensive - something like €100 a month. It's aimed at garages rather than individuals unfortunately.
@11:53 Yeah, this engine is a snug fit and if you have the opportunity to replace wear items while it is out you shouldn't miss it.
Yeah glad I did it to be honest
Bonjour ce moteur avais combien de kilomètres ? Et est t’il fiable ?… merciiii😅
Unless you have a balancing machine DO NOT strip the compressor wheel off the turbo shaf because the turbine and compressor wheels are balanced once mounted into the bearing housing and to balance them up precisely they grind off material off either the compressor or turbine wheels to balance it and if you undo the left hand nut on the compressor wheel and move the wheel then it will be out of balance and after a short period of running it will self destruct itself.
As for checking a turbo for play/wear just grip the shaft and pull it in and out and if it moves then it has wear a bit of up and down movement is fine because a mass produced turbo doesn't have bearings inside them the turbo shaft runs on bronze bushings and the little bit of up and down play you feel is taken up by the high pressure oil so the turbine shaft floats on a thin film of oil.
Thanks for that info, Mark 🙌🏻
Don't believe that there should be no play in the turbo bearings...depending on type there may well be.
What dose it mean when you say the front clip ??
The front radiator and frame assembly
@NotEconomicallyViable Thank you enjoying the videos I have been a mechanic for 35 years yes it gets easyer but still have struggles daily cars and women are a nightmare lol
Play: They mean: In and out.
It's refreshing to see an enthusiast working on economy cars, since most work on sports and muscle cars, and see mistakes from which I can learn, which is the best way to learn; however the smallest engines like this 2 air, I don't think are available in the USA, where even 3 cylinder cars are rare and 2 cylinder cars almost nonexistent.
I do think you pay too much attention to aesthetics as I can't say I care weather your ugly econobox gets keyed or not because it's ugly regardless and keying is rarely an entry point for structural rot. It's gravel kicked up by the tires and hitting the underside that does that and needs to be touched up and/or spray waxed. though if your guppymouth Metro got keyed I would be upset.
I think some kneepads should be on the shopping list. You'll suffer later in life. Trust me.
Are you a doktor on your fulltime day djob? (In Norwegian) (Fastlege) (and the Word Almenlege )
I know this was a long time ago but them gearbox to engine dowels just stay in which ever side they decide to when splitting the engine/gearbox.
What's the weight of this engine?
About 100kg without the transmission 👍🏻
If you were burning oil then the turbo seals have failed and oil would run low
DO NOT FORGET to purge the turbo, before start the engine....
How do you purge the turbo?
He must mean to get the oil pressure up so the bearings are well lubed...
Easy to do, crank with the fuel pump fuse out for 30 sec that should do it...
Good luck...
Ahh right. Yeah I was gonna do that anyway like with the Mini. I was looking online and seen some people actually undoing the oil feed line, placing the end in a cup and cranking the engine to make sure the turbo is definitely receiving oil
@@NotEconomicallyViable bit overkill that, maybe if you have built a race engine or you think you have an oil pump problem, but your turbo has already been used so is pre lubed & with the pre crank you can watch for the oil pressure dash light to go out.
You could also pre fill the turbo feed aperture & manually spin the compressor wheel but again bit overkill for what your doing.
PS: still think your old turbo was good, put a new intercooler on mine, new charge pipes, ran it for 100 miles & then changed to a noise maker delete & the oil has made it all the way to the hose feeding the throttle body. Oil came from the PCV's & is normal...
You felt no back lash when you checked the turbo, a knackard turbo has play you would have felt...
Your going to be in the dog house for messing them flags up outside the backdoor..
No need to buy whole turbo. Everyone always buys a full unit when the seals go(oil leak). Just buy the turbo core (chra) it's only about 50quid for that turbo and takes 20 mins to swap it out. 👍👍