That bumper is fine! Don’t give up. You have saved yourselfs a lot of money there. It’s good you having ago. Paintwork is the most expensive part of fixing cars. Just needs more clear coat on. Give it two or three more coats. The orange peel will wet sand fine with 1500 / 2000 and then polishing with a cutting compound by hand is fine no need for a machine unless doing full cars. Then a good wax polish to seal the paintwork. You will have to wet dry blend with 1500 / 2000 into the old paint to blend the old and new anyway. Well done with the exhaust. Only thing I’d suggest is you should of spend more time getting the rear section to slide in and out easier while of the car. Also another tip spray the exhaust mountings with wd40 makes them easier to fit and pull of the exhaust sections. Other then that spot on work mate !!
Thanks for all that info Paul 🙌🏻 Had lots of advice and the general consensus is definitely that not enough clearcoat went on. Couple more layers, then wet sand and polish. Going to give this a go and see how it turns out 👍🏻
My New favourite RUclipsr.... doing a great job and like the fact you show ‘warts and all’. Your good missus has a natural ability for filling and finishing 👍 with regards to the spraying, start with a very light dust coat ( no need to cover over all the primer, as you just laying down a bond layer for next coat) second coat go a little heavier, same with third.... if spraying metallic paint finish off with a very light dust coat to lay down the metallics of the paint. The same applies with the Clearcoat, just dust it on with the first, then slightly heavier on second, on third coat (providing you let adequate time in between) you can go a little heavier (wet coat) ,... the reason it looks peeled is, some areas haven’t got enough coverage, where as other areas are ok.. tbh, it’s a cracking first attempt ... don’t give up 😎👍
Thanks for the kind words, Jon. If I didn't show warts and all the videos would only be about a minute long haha. And thanks also for the advice with the bodywork. I'm going to have a go at fixing up that dodgy door I bought and I'll put all that advice into action!
Body work really requires patience and practice. It will get easier, and you have already learnt the 1st lesson...that "Less is more". Special mention to your glamorous assistant too 😎
Don’t stress mate it’s a learning curve and your just on a large curve at the mo your at the beginning of a long road which as you gain more experience becomes easier… keep going look forward to the next one 👍
Seriously don't be concerned about the orange peel when it's had 2 good coats of laqaur wet sand it and machine polish it and you will get rid of a lot of the orange peel 👍
Thanks for the advice, Wayne. Didn't realise how close to a good finish we were until you guys all started commenting! Going to have another go at it today and see how it turns out!
@@NotEconomicallyViable no problem mate your doing a great job and the more you try it the better you get as I was always told 80% of paint is prep and the final stage of finishing with buffing etc
I've had to change the same part on a 2012 Fiat 500 (MoT failure on the ball joint). You didn't do too badly considering it was your first go at bodywork. It was good to see your good lady give you a hand. She certainly has the knack for the preparation work.
Many many years ago if i needed a door, bonnet or tailgate for my cars i used to drive to the scrappers and swap the parts right there. Okay things used to be easier back in the 70s and 80s, thats just how things were done.
A bit of advise on fitting exhausts, loosely fitt all the parts, then tighten from the front. It is easier twisting/pushing on the next part when its fixed than trying to push two parts that are loose together. hope this helps
Another brilliant effort Nino, and glad to see that you’ve now recruited the M.D. ! As with other comments, when priming/painting, that was a cracking first effort! Not that unless you’ve got a heat lamp, or a booth, you need to give it proper time to cure, and start with a very light coat then apply more in subsequent coats - be patient (and also be mindful of the weather, as rainy and windy days are not great for home painting, especially when it’s higher humidity, even under cover) Same as I commented on an earlier video, components like shockers, ball joints (and swing arms!!!!!) are probably best done in pairs, so great job on getting that sorted. All in all I’d say the title of the video was a little “click-Bailey” you’re doing much better than you’re letting on, and it’s an absolute pleasure to watch - just make sure it’s a zero-hour Contract for the M.D. !😂 Keep ‘em comin’ JCHK
Thanks, John! I didn't realise how close to a decent finish we were with the paint until all you guys started commenting. I actually ended up giving the video a different title. The videos that do the best are the ones that have titles that just nudge the very fine line into click-bait territory. Sometimes you accidentally go over the line! We were actually talking about Naomi going on a bodywork course - she has no interest in the mechanical, and I have no real interest in the bodywork. And it could be a really nice shared thing for us to do.
Seriously Nino have a think about wearing safety glasses when underneath your cars as metal fragments in the eyes are horrendous and having them scrapped out at Hospital is not fun and the pain afterwards is excruciating. Ask me how I know ! Great videos and very informative. Thank you.
We have all had 'runs' in the paint applied! But my experience is to place extremely thin coats! Then use a Hair Dryer to 'flash off' the solvent before applying further coats. With clear coat orange peel, you could use 600 grit wet/dry and then try again, ensuring that all previous layers have hardened-off. I am no expert, but it has worked for me in the past, after many years of failure. All of these little tips from various people can advance your knowledge! Greetings from Australia.
Body work takes practice. I was spraying up one day. Everything going great. I carried on the next day but the temperature had dropped a few degrees and all the clearcoat I sprayed went cloudy. Those few degrees made all the difference. Sometimes the car gods hate you.
Hi you didn't really need body filler on the scratches ,if you used High build primer it would have been more than enough to fill any minor scratches ,I have been a panel beater/painter for 50 years and hate plastic bumpers .
It's good you can have a laugh about these things, if I'd bought that door I'd have been arrested walking down the M4 in my underpants swearing at passing motorists 😂
Body work is a real patience game. When I am doing some, I need two or three other jobs to be doing,so you can walk away and let things dry. If i am just doing the one body job I won't wait long enough for things to dry, and rush it, and it never goes well. As one of your other comments says put on a good coat of clear coat and wet sand it back the next day. Also weather is a problem when your playing outside. Keep up the good work it takes along time to get the hang of body work.
Thanks for that, Neil. I'm definitely not going to give up on the bodywork that's for sure. Especially not now that I've had so much amazing advice from you guys 👍🏻
Motor oil mixes with asphalt, cannot be completely removed, and repeated spills will dissolve the driveway, so avoid spilling, wipe up what you can and leave what you can't because anything that can cut the oil can also cut the asphalt. If the drive starts getting gummy, you might have to find another workspace or maybe apply an oil resistant coating to the drive. Cement works much better and many auto parts stores have cement drives for that reason.
Also, bushings should be tightened with weight on the suspension so that they are not continuously under stress. If the ball joint has no play, it can be done cheaper by greasing it, perhaps drilling in a grease fitting, replacing the seal, and squirting some polyurethane or silicone caulk into the worn rear bushing and letting it dry with weight on the suspension, or with the bolt out. I also doubt that bothering much with scratches and dents will pay for itself at resale, especially including your time, beyond a quick go over with a touch up pen. I also would not have replaced the engine, just the turbo seal, any other leaking seals, and mind the oil level better. It didn't look to me like the oil starvation was that damaging, that the intake valves failed in time to save the old engine, which, with full disclosure, might still be sold. Though the buyer might want to pull the oil pan and check one or two rod bearings.
Try 1200 wet &dry . 180 SANDPAPER IS BRUTAL That don't need filler for a paint scratch ????? After the laquer hardens use 2000wet dry to flatten then polish and it will be fine
Spray the entire exhaust system down with silicone tire shine or high temperature silicone spray and then wire, tack weld, or braze the rusted cover back up, or if you already have the replacement part, then spray it down inside and out and while the pipe is apart, spray into the ends to get the inside of the old pipes as well, though stay clear and downstream of any oxygen sensors. Spray liberally, then quickly reassemble before it dries, and start the car to coat the inside of the pipes downstream of where you sprayed. For most of the exhaust, including the most rust prone parts, silicone should not burn off and should protect for a year or so.
Clear coat is one of those things just take your time with it... Sparing first coat then get slightly heavier each coat after then last few coats do what's called a wet coat ( heaviest )!
Over many years, I've never been able to master home car painting with rattle cans. Personally, I think I would have tried to polish out the scuffs as much as possible and then touched up any deep scratches by hand.
Ditto. I did rattle can a couple of motorcycle tanks and side panels (a long time ago! 1978, a Yamaha 250 & 1982, a Suzuki 380). I did eventually get a pretty shiny finish BUT I didn’t get the solid colour even enough, in other words, an uneven finish, while it would flat & get a good gloss on it, it was a bit thin and you could see a hint of base coat through it. Much later in life (2006), when I restored a bike, I farmed out the important bits! While not cheap, all these years later, it still gives me a great deal of pleasure. I polished out all the aluminium parts especially on the motor, and I chose to paint the frame, swing arm and headlamp shell & brackets. Nino’s doing the right thing on attempting a refinish on that front bumper. Tip tip, you really must use water with the abrasive paper. Makes a huge difference to getting an even surface, ready for primer.
Corsa control arms use the same horizontal bush. Pain in the arse to get in lol. My Focus ones are much easier to get in and out. Also, the Focus ones you can convert the ball ends to bolt ons which makes the job much easier for future replacements.
instantly should orange peel matey great first base layer its how it should be light patchy orange peeling then come back in 15 minutes give it the full wet coat for the shine
It doesn’t matter who you are when doing body work the more you do the better results you will get. Like I said watch Nats Knackers Yard he is a genius with a rattle can
Lovely Jubbly video, patience and preparation is all that's needed for paintwork, it might wet n dry back with very fine paper then a polish just don't rush it.
No returns on that door, unfortunately. I’ve relisted it on eBay with all the damage on show, so maybe I’ll recoup a couple of quid if anyone wants a knackered door… Glad you’re liking the videos 👍🏻
Good job! I think you're next project needs to have less mechanical problems and bit more bodywork so you can get time to learn. Only tip I can give is BE PATIENT, if you rush bodywork it shows immediately
I think that's probably a good idea. And I'm also going to slow down on the next lot of bodywork I try - I was rushing this a bit because I had to finish up and edit the video in good time 👍🏻
Give the bumper a wet sand until smooth with a sanding block then use some Maguire's ultimate compound on a buffing pad (I attach mine to a drill!). It'll come out a mirror finish. Then, finish with some polish. I had the same issue on my bumper 😂
The other side was replaced in October, so that should be fine. Great shout on the alignment - will see how it drives when it’s all bolted back together
That wishbone wouldn't of passed a test even if the ball joint boot wasn't split because the rear bush was also separating. Don't put yourself down about the bodywork because when i was in my 20's i did my NVQ Level 3 in paint spraying and even now i decline bodywork and painting jobs because I'm crap at it outside of the correct environment lol. Do 3 or 4 coats of lacquer then once it hardens off (24hrs) sand it down with a 1500-2000 wet and dry and once you don't see any orange peel effect on the panel then it needs machine polishing with a G3 cutting/finishing compond don't worry about orange peel even brand new cars come off the production line with a certain amount of orange peel in the paintwork.
Yeah tried a few guys and they've all said it needs to be done by a proper bodyshop. It's all to do with the way the dent has creased around the crash bar, and is why the proper bodyshops are all quoting around £500 🥴
I always take exhaust rubbers off the chassis pegs, they tend to be smooth without end stops. Easier then to remove them from the exhaust parts themselves (I use an old pair of rounded grips to get them off, kind of a repurposed "special tool" blunt as hell but great for removing exhaust rubbers). Not bad on the bodywork. As per other comments take it down a tiny bit with some fine grade wet and dry, some compound and then polish. You're actually reasonably close to a great finish.
Someone just let me know that there are dedicated exhaust hanger pliers too, so definitely worth knowing. Didn't realise how close I was with the bodywork until I started reading these comments lol. Will have a go getting it all the way and see how it turns out.
@@NotEconomicallyViable Bodywork is a process that once learned makes it easy to do and fairly easy to make corrections, but still takes a big chunk of time as it is often by eye, certainly by feel and with a great deal of repetition. Often the senses come as a natural gift for some but can be learned by training your eyes and touch over time. Keep going, your progress is impressive.
Another great video. your good lady done an amazing job with the prep of the bumper. But don't get to disheartened with your first spraying attempt. you will get orange peel but you have to flatten that back and then polish with G3 and G10 cutting and polishing compound and It will come out ok. You should also use blending thinners on the paintwork between the new and old paint blend line. But overall between the pair of you you done well for your fist attempt.
Thanks for the advice, Lawrence. We didn't realise how close we were to a decent finish on the paintwork. Naomi is more delicate than me, and has a more natural flair for this sort of stuff. Think I might send her on a bodywork course and we can get these cars done between us!
@@NotEconomicallyViable that may be a good idea for you both. I have been doing bodywork for many years only do it part time now as I'm semi retired now. But keep on with it you will do it in the end and produce a good enough end result. If I can be of any assistance to you please don't hesitate to mak contact. Only to pleased to help you if I can. Looking forward to the next upload. Kind Regards.
Don't grease your exhaust mate ....... Use a wire brush and clean up inside the exhaust then hang the exhaust on the hangers and then push it together mate ...that way ya see if the exhaust rubbers are hanging straight and not knocking on the body any where
Well done on your efforts so far and top marks for managing to get your other half to fix her own car wish I could manage to get the wife to repair all the stuff she breaks lol
I hate doing wishbones on 500`s, they drive me mental! Old Punto & Uno ones only take 15 minutes a side! I always expect damage on delivered panels, I prefer to go to collect them, either from breakers or people breaking them privately. I prefer to take them off myself as well. Sometimes people let you swap them complete, which saves loads of agro, especially on doors as easy to swap as 500`s (unlike their wishbones!). That door looked metallic black through, & the car looks like its plain, non-metallic? Jacking the hub up (via the disc) would have helped you put the wishbone back in, also, jacking the exhaust up to the floor helps getting the rubbers off, & putting them back, you need a nice big hook for the rubbers ideally. You don't grease exhaust joints! You use assembly paste on the joins, & use a rubber mallet on the end to bang them together if necessary. If its being awkward, twist it, or get someone else to twist it while you jiggle the join. It orange peeled because you went on too lightly, its a fine line between orange peel & runs, you pick it up over time. As its 2k, you might be able to 1000, then 2000 W&D it (wet) & then compound it, but I`m not sure you`ve got enough clearcoat on there to do that. You don't learn without trying, & you are certainly trying!
Thanks for all that advice bud 👍🏻 Didn't know assembly paste existed until right now lol - will have to get myself some. That dodgy door I bought is just scrap metal at this point, so I think I'm going to use it to practice bodywork on. Got loads of tips and pointers from you guys, so next around it might go a lot better 👍🏻
@@NotEconomicallyViable NP mate. You could always re-sell that door & get hold of a good one in colour, would save a lot of agro, & you shouldnt lose anything in theory! Painting a door with aerosols takes a lot of skill (& costs a lot in aerosols!)
New subscriber. I see we have some subscribers in common. Your channel popped up on my list of recommended videos. Nice to see I’m not the only one who struggles with those bloody bottom arms.
They call the part a wishbone, your doing great keep making these videos because we are loving them, your your own teacher and your learning all the time, self learning and never stop asking for advice because that's how we all learn in life Colin from London ❤
Just found you, love the start of this video where you don’t know (or can’t remember)what stuff is called… Just like me. Mrs car has advisories on rear coils and all along the exhaust now - replaced rear shocks before MOT last week all stuff I would have paid someone to do before RUclips! Anyway going to watch this as I have a front bumper to repair (scuffs and scratches) and possibly an exhaust to change in the not to distant.
It’s good, that front bumper is OK, it’s going to be so much better than what you started with, but let it dry properly before using fine wet and dry (used wet) & finally, polish it to gloss.
Looks like transit damage on the door... complain to them and get a refund! You have my admiration.... I've seen on the @love500 YT channel he uses a one stage paint to do his repairs.
You just have to get stuck in! The great thing about these 500s is that they're so small and simple. Makes working on them much easier than you might think 👍🏻
@@NotEconomicallyViable cheers mate. Yeah mine shat itself on the motorway the other week, I was going pretty.. well.. making good progress then engine light flashing, limp mode, bit scary. It recovered somewhat when I pulled over and turned it off and on again but sounded like shit idling. It did need a service anyway but £450 on diagnostic, service including oil and new plugs was a bit much. Apparently I've got a sightly worn rear bush. You don't want a worn bush now do you. 🤣 Be well!
Impressed with Naomi, especially if that’s her first go at automotive paint prep. In fact, you together remind me of me and my GF (now wife of 40 years) in your positive attitudes, eagerness to learn by gaining experiences and, crucially, you show each other both caring and that vital element, RESPECT. My wife is better than I am at some things and vice versa. Oh, I forgot, being vaguely daft as brushes is a helluva survival characteristic! Good luck to the pair of you.
top tip if you got out all of the damage in the paint there is no need for filler if the bumper was nice and smooth just fill in the deep scratches bud
Good job but don't use halfords paint it's awful. Best to do thin coats and use a heat gun to dry in between coats. You need to wetsand the lacquer coat with 2500 wet and dry and then compound polish
Halfords was only stuff I could get on short notice - did this whole thing on a whim lol. Thanks for the advice with the method - will wet sand the lacquer and see how that goes 👍🏻
Use ramps ya can get from halfords and other outlets where i got mine from, drive on ramps and more space for exhaust jobs either end if doing front or rear, helps alot.
I can see why you would never want to work on a Fiat again wow what a pain to work on ,you have more patience than most having to cope with all the crap this car gave you ,well done mate .
Please be careful with a grinder under the car especially when the sparks are hitting the fuel tank. make sure you keep your fire extinguisher close at hand.
with the orange peel just need to wet sand it with 2000 grit 3000 grit and then machine polish it it will blend in with old paint spraying outside isn't helping but can't help it I've done it and for home DIY guy it has not been bad
That bumper is fine! Don’t give up. You have saved yourselfs a lot of money there. It’s good you having ago. Paintwork is the most expensive part of fixing cars. Just needs more clear coat on. Give it two or three more coats. The orange peel will wet sand fine with 1500 / 2000 and then polishing with a cutting compound by hand is fine no need for a machine unless doing full cars. Then a good wax polish to seal the paintwork. You will have to wet dry blend with 1500 / 2000 into the old paint to blend the old and new anyway. Well done with the exhaust. Only thing I’d suggest is you should of spend more time getting the rear section to slide in and out easier while of the car. Also another tip spray the exhaust mountings with wd40 makes them easier to fit and pull of the exhaust sections. Other then that spot on work mate !!
Thanks for all that info Paul 🙌🏻
Had lots of advice and the general consensus is definitely that not enough clearcoat went on. Couple more layers, then wet sand and polish. Going to give this a go and see how it turns out 👍🏻
My New favourite RUclipsr.... doing a great job and like the fact you show ‘warts and all’. Your good missus has a natural ability for filling and finishing 👍 with regards to the spraying, start with a very light dust coat ( no need to cover over all the primer, as you just laying down a bond layer for next coat) second coat go a little heavier, same with third.... if spraying metallic paint finish off with a very light dust coat to lay down the metallics of the paint. The same applies with the Clearcoat, just dust it on with the first, then slightly heavier on second, on third coat (providing you let adequate time in between) you can go a little heavier (wet coat) ,... the reason it looks peeled is, some areas haven’t got enough coverage, where as other areas are ok.. tbh, it’s a cracking first attempt ... don’t give up 😎👍
Thanks for the kind words, Jon. If I didn't show warts and all the videos would only be about a minute long haha.
And thanks also for the advice with the bodywork. I'm going to have a go at fixing up that dodgy door I bought and I'll put all that advice into action!
Body work really requires patience and practice. It will get easier, and you have already learnt the 1st lesson...that "Less is more". Special mention to your glamorous assistant too 😎
Don’t stress mate it’s a learning curve and your just on a large curve at the mo your at the beginning of a long road which as you gain more experience becomes easier… keep going look forward to the next one 👍
Seriously don't be concerned about the orange peel when it's had 2 good coats of laqaur wet sand it and machine polish it and you will get rid of a lot of the orange peel 👍
Thanks for the advice, Wayne. Didn't realise how close to a good finish we were until you guys all started commenting! Going to have another go at it today and see how it turns out!
@@NotEconomicallyViable no problem mate your doing a great job and the more you try it the better you get as I was always told 80% of paint is prep and the final stage of finishing with buffing etc
Exactly. Wet sand with 1000 grit, then 2000 and 2500 or 3000. After all that, polish.
But you should have let Naomi the spray cans 😄
If you look at a lot of cars from factory, the paint isn't perfect anyway
You have probably done a better job than Fiat did
Not all repairs need filler, you might have found that a good primer would have made life a lot easier instead of filler. Well done on having a go 👍
You can get primer/filler in spray cans, might have been easier
But great job either way
You need some car ramps
Spray Those Rubber Exhaust Holders With Some Lubricant Spray.
I've had to change the same part on a 2012 Fiat 500 (MoT failure on the ball joint). You didn't do too badly considering it was your first go at bodywork. It was good to see your good lady give you a hand. She certainly has the knack for the preparation work.
She's a lot more delicate and slower with it than me, so that definitely helps.
Many many years ago if i needed a door, bonnet or tailgate for my cars i used to drive to the scrappers and swap the parts right there. Okay things used to be easier back in the 70s and 80s, thats just how things were done.
Great you tube channel Completely honest - no life is not straight forward and good to see this in your videos and how you overcome problems 👍👍👍👍
Thanks for that, Waltham. My videos would be rubbish (and only about a minute long) if I only ever showed the good stuff!
A bit of advise on fitting exhausts, loosely fitt all the parts, then tighten from the front. It is easier twisting/pushing on the next part when its fixed than trying to push two parts that are loose together. hope this helps
Another brilliant effort Nino, and glad to see that you’ve now recruited the M.D. !
As with other comments, when priming/painting, that was a cracking first effort! Not that unless you’ve got a heat lamp, or a booth, you need to give it proper time to cure, and start with a very light coat then apply more in subsequent coats - be patient (and also be mindful of the weather, as rainy and windy days are not great for home painting, especially when it’s higher humidity, even under cover)
Same as I commented on an earlier video, components like shockers, ball joints (and swing arms!!!!!) are probably best done in pairs, so great job on getting that sorted.
All in all I’d say the title of the video was a little “click-Bailey” you’re doing much better than you’re letting on, and it’s an absolute pleasure to watch - just make sure it’s a zero-hour Contract for the M.D. !😂
Keep ‘em comin’
JCHK
Thanks, John! I didn't realise how close to a decent finish we were with the paint until all you guys started commenting.
I actually ended up giving the video a different title. The videos that do the best are the ones that have titles that just nudge the very fine line into click-bait territory. Sometimes you accidentally go over the line!
We were actually talking about Naomi going on a bodywork course - she has no interest in the mechanical, and I have no real interest in the bodywork. And it could be a really nice shared thing for us to do.
Some paints react with each other. It's a good idea to get all the same brand primer, top and clear.
Lighter coats, longer strokes and not too close. Last coat heavier. If you do it lighter and longer you won’t get runs.
Just a quick tip, when under a car looking up at a rusty exhaust wear some safety glasses, you really don’t want rust in your eye.
when painting less is more - always better to put on more light coats than 1 heavy coat
Thanks bud
Seriously Nino have a think about wearing safety glasses when underneath your cars as metal fragments in the eyes are horrendous and having them scrapped out at Hospital is not fun and the pain afterwards is excruciating. Ask me how I know !
Great videos and very informative. Thank you.
It’s fine very fine wet and dry and a good machine polish
Just takes time you can’t rush it
We have all had 'runs' in the paint applied! But my experience is to place extremely thin coats! Then use a Hair Dryer to 'flash off' the solvent before applying further coats. With clear coat orange peel, you could use 600 grit wet/dry and then try again, ensuring that all previous layers have hardened-off. I am no expert, but it has worked for me in the past, after many years of failure. All of these little tips from various people can advance your knowledge! Greetings from Australia.
Body work takes practice. I was spraying up one day. Everything going great.
I carried on the next day but the temperature had dropped a few degrees and all the clearcoat I sprayed went cloudy.
Those few degrees made all the difference. Sometimes the car gods hate you.
Unfortunately now, fleebay has to many fraudsters on it. I Stoped using it a couple of years ago.
It's definitely hit and miss. Had loads of hits up until this point
Hi you didn't really need body filler on the scratches ,if you used High build primer it would have been more than enough to fill any minor scratches ,I have been a panel beater/painter for 50 years and hate plastic bumpers .
It's good you can have a laugh about these things, if I'd bought that door I'd have been arrested walking down the M4 in my underpants swearing at passing motorists 😂
Body work is a real patience game. When I am doing some, I need two or three other jobs to be doing,so you can walk away and let things dry. If i am just doing the one body job I won't wait long enough for things to dry, and rush it, and it never goes well. As one of your other comments says put on a good coat of clear coat and wet sand it back the next day. Also weather is a problem when your playing outside. Keep up the good work it takes along time to get the hang of body work.
Thanks for that, Neil. I'm definitely not going to give up on the bodywork that's for sure. Especially not now that I've had so much amazing advice from you guys 👍🏻
Always do really light first coat,let it dry,then go heavier on the second coat. I've done the same mistakes when i was starting at spraying stuff.
Ahh interesting. I'll remember that for the future!
Motor oil mixes with asphalt, cannot be completely removed, and repeated spills will dissolve the driveway, so avoid spilling, wipe up what you can and leave what you can't because anything that can cut the oil can also cut the asphalt. If the drive starts getting gummy, you might have to find another workspace or maybe apply an oil resistant coating to the drive. Cement works much better and many auto parts stores have cement drives for that reason.
Also, bushings should be tightened with weight on the suspension so that they are not continuously under stress. If the ball joint has no play, it can be done cheaper by greasing it, perhaps drilling in a grease fitting, replacing the seal, and squirting some polyurethane or silicone caulk into the worn rear bushing and letting it dry with weight on the suspension, or with the bolt out.
I also doubt that bothering much with scratches and dents will pay for itself at resale, especially including your time, beyond a quick go over with a touch up pen.
I also would not have replaced the engine, just the turbo seal, any other leaking seals, and mind the oil level better. It didn't look to me like the oil starvation was that damaging, that the intake valves failed in time to save the old engine, which, with full disclosure, might still be sold. Though the buyer might want to pull the oil pan and check one or two rod bearings.
You’re a very lucky man to have a missus like that well done matey good luck I enjoy every vlog
Try 1200 wet &dry . 180 SANDPAPER IS BRUTAL That don't need filler for a paint scratch ????? After the laquer hardens use 2000wet dry to flatten then polish and it will be fine
Spray the entire exhaust system down with silicone tire shine or high temperature silicone spray and then wire, tack weld, or braze the rusted cover back up, or if you already have the replacement part, then spray it down inside and out and while the pipe is apart, spray into the ends to get the inside of the old pipes as well, though stay clear and downstream of any oxygen sensors.
Spray liberally, then quickly reassemble before it dries, and start the car to coat the inside of the pipes downstream of where you sprayed. For most of the exhaust, including the most rust prone parts, silicone should not burn off and should protect for a year or so.
Orange Peel spray 2 or 3 coats of lacquer let it dry wet send with 1500 then 2000 grit and polish with t-cut stop worrying bud
Washing up liquid on exhaust rubbers
Great shout
Use silicon lubricant for exhaust mounts. Slides right out. Just dont spray your car paint with it...
Sorry if I ask you but how much did you pay for the cinquecento, looks like a money pit. 😮
Can I ask….you mention watching a video about body work repair…..who’s was it please?
God bless your good lady for having a sense of humour
Really enjoying your videos....bloke next door working on cars
Loving it👌
Clear coat is one of those things just take your time with it... Sparing first coat then get slightly heavier each coat after then last few coats do what's called a wet coat ( heaviest )!
So happy to see your progress through the videos. An inspiration for myself going forward!!
if you want an easy way to remove and fit exhaust rubbers on the hangers just use wd40 mate, they'll come off in seconds!
Over many years, I've never been able to master home car painting with rattle cans. Personally, I think I would have tried to polish out the scuffs as much as possible and then touched up any deep scratches by hand.
Ditto. I did rattle can a couple of motorcycle tanks and side panels (a long time ago! 1978, a Yamaha 250 & 1982, a Suzuki 380).
I did eventually get a pretty shiny finish BUT I didn’t get the solid colour even enough, in other words, an uneven finish, while it would flat & get a good gloss on it, it was a bit thin and you could see a hint of base coat through it.
Much later in life (2006), when I restored a bike, I farmed out the important bits! While not cheap, all these years later, it still gives me a great deal of pleasure. I polished out all the aluminium parts especially on the motor, and I chose to paint the frame, swing arm and headlamp shell & brackets.
Nino’s doing the right thing on attempting a refinish on that front bumper.
Tip tip, you really must use water with the abrasive paper. Makes a huge difference to getting an even surface, ready for primer.
Your doing great job buddy. keep up the good work.i love watching your videos you have learnt me a few things .
Corsa control arms use the same horizontal bush. Pain in the arse to get in lol. My Focus ones are much easier to get in and out. Also, the Focus ones you can convert the ball ends to bolt ons which makes the job much easier for future replacements.
I would definitely have returned that door to the seller and obtained a refund. Or kept it only if I got least a partial refund.
Some WD40 in exhaust hangers will definitly help you
instantly should orange peel matey great first base layer its how it should be light patchy orange peeling then come back in 15 minutes give it the full wet coat for the shine
you could just lightly spray the damage then t-cut off the over spray car dealer trick
Been a while i saw solid discs on the front of a car. They are prolly pretty cheap to service
Why didn't you just go to a fitting centre for the exhaust?? Or at least jack the car up a little higher
It doesn’t matter who you are when doing body work the more you do the better results you will get. Like I said watch Nats Knackers Yard he is a genius with a rattle can
Lovely Jubbly video, patience and preparation is all that's needed for paintwork, it might wet n dry back with very fine paper then a polish just don't rush it.
Lesson number 1 in engineering; never force it, just get a bigger hammer!!
There is a tool made for removing exhaust from exhaust hangers
Send that door straight back! Just done both lower arms on the 500 1.2 I’m preparing for my daughter to learn to drive in so loving the videos. 👍
No returns on that door, unfortunately. I’ve relisted it on eBay with all the damage on show, so maybe I’ll recoup a couple of quid if anyone wants a knackered door…
Glad you’re liking the videos 👍🏻
Good job! I think you're next project needs to have less mechanical problems and bit more bodywork so you can get time to learn. Only tip I can give is BE PATIENT, if you rush bodywork it shows immediately
I think that's probably a good idea. And I'm also going to slow down on the next lot of bodywork I try - I was rushing this a bit because I had to finish up and edit the video in good time 👍🏻
I thought you said Naomi was going to be doing the painting? lol
Give the bumper a wet sand until smooth with a sanding block then use some Maguire's ultimate compound on a buffing pad (I attach mine to a drill!). It'll come out a mirror finish. Then, finish with some polish. I had the same issue on my bumper 😂
Well I'm glad to hear it's not just me lol. I'll give that a go 👍🏻
Do not GREECE an exhaust you need to seal it with exhaust paste
I'm imagining a bloke telling his missus, "No worries about fitting the exhaust on the 500, I've watched a video on YT..." 😂
😂😂
Washing up liquid on the bottom arm bushes and in the crevice where they go as well as the exhaust joints make it much easier.
Wd40 helps alot with those exhaust holders
Always recommend replacing both lower arms if you can and checking the wheel alignment as it often out when replacing lower arms.
The other side was replaced in October, so that should be fine. Great shout on the alignment - will see how it drives when it’s all bolted back together
That pink stuff is coolant deposits
That wishbone wouldn't of passed a test even if the ball joint boot wasn't split because the rear bush was also separating.
Don't put yourself down about the bodywork because when i was in my 20's i did my NVQ Level 3 in paint spraying and even now i decline bodywork and painting jobs because I'm crap at it outside of the correct environment lol.
Do 3 or 4 coats of lacquer then once it hardens off (24hrs) sand it down with a 1500-2000 wet and dry and once you don't see any orange peel effect on the panel then it needs machine polishing with a G3 cutting/finishing compond don't worry about orange peel even brand new cars come off the production line with a certain amount of orange peel in the paintwork.
Thanks for that advice, Mark. I didn't realise how close I was to a decent finish. Every day I'm learning new stuff with the help of you guys 🙌🏻
Hangers, wd40, screwdriver.
Have you considered getting that door fixed by one of those P.D.R. (Paintless Dent Removal) specialists?
Yeah tried a few guys and they've all said it needs to be done by a proper bodyshop. It's all to do with the way the dent has creased around the crash bar, and is why the proper bodyshops are all quoting around £500 🥴
Copper slip is your friend on these :)
You didn't sand the part that the paint driped.
I always take exhaust rubbers off the chassis pegs, they tend to be smooth without end stops. Easier then to remove them from the exhaust parts themselves (I use an old pair of rounded grips to get them off, kind of a repurposed "special tool" blunt as hell but great for removing exhaust rubbers).
Not bad on the bodywork. As per other comments take it down a tiny bit with some fine grade wet and dry, some compound and then polish. You're actually reasonably close to a great finish.
Someone just let me know that there are dedicated exhaust hanger pliers too, so definitely worth knowing. Didn't realise how close I was with the bodywork until I started reading these comments lol. Will have a go getting it all the way and see how it turns out.
@@NotEconomicallyViable Bodywork is a process that once learned makes it easy to do and fairly easy to make corrections, but still takes a big chunk of time as it is often by eye, certainly by feel and with a great deal of repetition. Often the senses come as a natural gift for some but can be learned by training your eyes and touch over time. Keep going, your progress is impressive.
Wd40 will help with anything
For the door try Silverlake autos- Body panels and eBay just don't go together, always damaged!
I've heard good things about those guys, but unfortunately they don't have any black Fiat 500 doors in currently
Be to cold and damp mate to be painting
Another great video. your good lady done an amazing job with the prep of the bumper. But don't get to disheartened with your first spraying attempt. you will get orange peel but you have to flatten that back and then polish with G3 and G10 cutting and polishing compound and It will come out ok. You should also use blending thinners on the paintwork between the new and old paint blend line. But overall between the pair of you you done well for your fist attempt.
Thanks for the advice, Lawrence. We didn't realise how close we were to a decent finish on the paintwork. Naomi is more delicate than me, and has a more natural flair for this sort of stuff. Think I might send her on a bodywork course and we can get these cars done between us!
@@NotEconomicallyViable that may be a good idea for you both. I have been doing bodywork for many years only do it part time now as I'm semi retired now. But keep on with it you will do it in the end and produce a good enough end result. If I can be of any assistance to you please don't hesitate to mak contact. Only to pleased to help you if I can. Looking forward to the next upload. Kind Regards.
Don't grease your exhaust mate ....... Use a wire brush and clean up inside the exhaust then hang the exhaust on the hangers and then push it together mate ...that way ya see if the exhaust rubbers are hanging straight and not knocking on the body any where
Great shout. I'll keep that in mind if I do another exhaust myself again 👍🏻
Well done on your efforts so far and top marks for managing to get your other half to fix her own car wish I could manage to get the wife to repair all the stuff she breaks lol
Haha I was surprised she was so willing to have a go!
I hate doing wishbones on 500`s, they drive me mental! Old Punto & Uno ones only take 15 minutes a side! I always expect damage on delivered panels, I prefer to go to collect them, either from breakers or people breaking them privately. I prefer to take them off myself as well. Sometimes people let you swap them complete, which saves loads of agro, especially on doors as easy to swap as 500`s (unlike their wishbones!). That door looked metallic black through, & the car looks like its plain, non-metallic?
Jacking the hub up (via the disc) would have helped you put the wishbone back in, also, jacking the exhaust up to the floor helps getting the rubbers off, & putting them back, you need a nice big hook for the rubbers ideally.
You don't grease exhaust joints! You use assembly paste on the joins, & use a rubber mallet on the end to bang them together if necessary. If its being awkward, twist it, or get someone else to twist it while you jiggle the join.
It orange peeled because you went on too lightly, its a fine line between orange peel & runs, you pick it up over time. As its 2k, you might be able to 1000, then 2000 W&D it (wet) & then compound it, but I`m not sure you`ve got enough clearcoat on there to do that.
You don't learn without trying, & you are certainly trying!
Thanks for all that advice bud 👍🏻 Didn't know assembly paste existed until right now lol - will have to get myself some. That dodgy door I bought is just scrap metal at this point, so I think I'm going to use it to practice bodywork on. Got loads of tips and pointers from you guys, so next around it might go a lot better 👍🏻
@@NotEconomicallyViable NP mate. You could always re-sell that door & get hold of a good one in colour, would save a lot of agro, & you shouldnt lose anything in theory! Painting a door with aerosols takes a lot of skill (& costs a lot in aerosols!)
New subscriber. I see we have some subscribers in common. Your channel popped up on my list of recommended videos. Nice to see I’m not the only one who struggles with those bloody bottom arms.
Ahh great to have you on board bud 👍🏻 Those bottom arms would be absolutely fine if someone just redesigned the whole suspension 😬😂
They call the part a wishbone, your doing great keep making these videos because we are loving them, your your own teacher and your learning all the time, self learning and never stop asking for advice because that's how we all learn in life Colin from London ❤
I’m 73 an did this job last year on my drive….. front end off “piece of cake”
NO!!!…… but was done in a day.. both sides😎🤙🏽
door does fit in the car
Herbert the helmet 🪖
Just found you, love the start of this video where you don’t know (or can’t remember)what stuff is called…
Just like me. Mrs car has advisories on rear coils and all along the exhaust now - replaced rear shocks before MOT last week all stuff I would have paid someone to do before RUclips! Anyway going to watch this as I have a front bumper to repair (scuffs and scratches) and possibly an exhaust to change in the not to distant.
When you were hitting the exhaust to get that end piece off it did remind me of the start of "I'm gonna be (500 miles)" by the proclaimers :)
di you try t-cut first
I've spent most of my working life in the motor trade, fixing driving flipping cars/ trucks etc.
Your doing great....your missus is doing fantastic !
It’s good, that front bumper is OK, it’s going to be so much better than what you started with, but let it dry properly before using fine wet and dry (used wet) & finally, polish it to gloss.
Looks like transit damage on the door... complain to them and get a refund! You have my admiration.... I've seen on the @love500 YT channel he uses a one stage paint to do his repairs.
Ooh nice!
I drive a berlingo multispace, doubles up as a van . Good option for collecting parts etc.
Fair play to the Mrs for having a go. And don't worry about the orange peel it happens all the time.
I've kind of inherited one of these as my only car and would love to have confidence to work on it a bit so these are really interesting, thanks 👍😁
You just have to get stuck in! The great thing about these 500s is that they're so small and simple. Makes working on them much easier than you might think 👍🏻
@@NotEconomicallyViable cheers mate. Yeah mine shat itself on the motorway the other week, I was going pretty.. well.. making good progress then engine light flashing, limp mode, bit scary. It recovered somewhat when I pulled over and turned it off and on again but sounded like shit idling. It did need a service anyway but £450 on diagnostic, service including oil and new plugs was a bit much.
Apparently I've got a sightly worn rear bush. You don't want a worn bush now do you. 🤣
Be well!
Impressed with Naomi, especially if that’s her first go at automotive paint prep.
In fact, you together remind me of me and my GF (now wife of 40 years) in your positive attitudes, eagerness to learn by gaining experiences and, crucially, you show each other both caring and that vital element, RESPECT.
My wife is better than I am at some things and vice versa.
Oh, I forgot, being vaguely daft as brushes is a helluva survival characteristic!
Good luck to the pair of you.
Big up the gazebo 😎 great work as usual man 👌
All about that gazebo life haha
top tip if you got out all of the damage in the paint there is no need for filler if the bumper was nice and smooth just fill in the deep scratches bud
Good job but don't use halfords paint it's awful. Best to do thin coats and use a heat gun to dry in between coats. You need to wetsand the lacquer coat with 2500 wet and dry and then compound polish
Halfords was only stuff I could get on short notice - did this whole thing on a whim lol. Thanks for the advice with the method - will wet sand the lacquer and see how that goes 👍🏻
@@NotEconomicallyViable no problem you will need compound polish to bring back the shine. Enjoy your videos good work
Use ramps ya can get from halfords and other outlets where i got mine from, drive on ramps and more space for exhaust jobs either end if doing front or rear, helps alot.
I can see why you would never want to work on a Fiat again wow what a pain to work on ,you have more patience than most having to cope with all the crap this car gave you ,well done mate .
Copper grease works well for twisting exhaust joints together, and can help with sealing.
Please be careful with a grinder under the car especially when the sparks are hitting the fuel tank. make sure you keep your fire extinguisher close at hand.
Lights coats of laquar first then a heavier coat of laquar gives you a perfect shine top tip
with the orange peel just need to wet sand it with 2000 grit 3000 grit and then machine polish it it will blend in with old paint spraying outside isn't helping but can't help it I've done it and for home DIY guy it has not been bad
Thanks for that, Martin. Will get the polisher out!
no problem you just got to use the sand paper to cut back the lacquer then polishing will bring out the shine