Blue Seas customer service is second to none as well as their quality. They warranty their products, no questions asked. Don't even ask for proof of purchase. I have had nothing but great experience with them, highly recommended!
I love this idea, we will definitely be doing this to our Ram. We find your videos very informative especially that we just bought our first 1992 D250 that we are doing a 4wd conversion on and will be upgrading as we work on the truck.
@@OvensGarage I did chat with them today and they do indeed make a fine product. I do like the idea of Archives front shackle mounts and it also strengthens the front end.
Another well done tutorial. I have 1 tip for you. Which I'm pretty sure you already know. (I know the relay leads are short, as you mentioned.) BUT if it rains or gets wet from washing and cleaning those relays will fill with water. As you know it will come in and down btwn the fender n hood. Don't leave them that way long. Just a tip form a friend. Or it'll be a headache. Otherwise real nice clean, tidy professional install. "As always" We expect no less from you. 👍
Hope this is still followed? My 93 W250 has just thrown the pcm, alt failure at me 376K kms. So, I like Rich Debosses 4-5 circuit breaker from battery idea eliminating the 1-time fusible links. My question is the relays exposed as mentioned eh Could one use the weatherproof switch/ connection AC boxes for xmas/ feature lighting if adding a large solid ground to the fender panel? These survive all weather and house washing eh I have a spare and thought maybe a great option
Very detailed tutorial. But I have one question, I know this setup is overkill for what I’m trying to do but can I run my power seats off the constant side?
@@jimb7922 I went looking for it and couldn't find it. I did it around the time I put the airbags on. ruclips.net/video/M9PvGh6VxMQ/видео.html I need to do an update video probably on the whole truck. I have to get into why my speedo goes crazy from time to time anyway.
@@msoul3248 totally quit or just reads the mph wrong? Mine still counts miles fine but usually when it first starts out the needle is all over the place. After a couple hours driving it starts to behave.
@@bcbloc02 at first it would show some response but then it went completely out. Then I lost my a/c, charge indicator gauge, OD, & CC which lead me to this video and looking into adding a fuse block to eliminate the crazy wiring and fusible links.
Electrical take a bit of patience but if it's done right it'll last a long time! This project keeps all the factory wiring in tact and does not delete the fusible links. It only relocates the factory wiring from the positive terminal to a bus bar after a circuit breaker.
@@OvensGarage Why didn't you replace the fuseable links and put them in your fuse box right there? I'm thinking about doing this as well, but would like to get rid of the fuseable links as part of it.
@@OvensGarage Thank you for your video posts. I have a 93 D250 which just topped 200,000m and almost immediately I lost OD, CC, alt charge, speedo, and a/c. I have watched your video on the ecm rebuild and the fuse block add ons. The videos are very helpful and concise. I think I may send my ecm off but trouble shooting has been aided by your time and videos.
One Question, are you sure that pink wire from the battery terminal goes to the flashers? if you disconnect it will your pickup still start or does it have a dead key? I think the pink goes from the battery to that connector and then via a brown wire to the starter solenoid. I have a 1991 pre 1991.5 and mine goes to the starter. the flasher/hazard seem to come off the main fuse block. I will have to dig the wiring diagram out. Great install on the buss bar and fuse block. I looks like a fairly easy clean up of that wire mess that is first gen. really enjoy your videos as you do pretty much everything top notch. Thanks
Looks really clean 👍how did you manage to get clearance from your hood hinge when the hood is closed ? I can’t mount my fuse block this way without clearance issues
@@OvensGarage the one I bought is 2” deep , the blue seas unit is 1.5” , maybe that half inch is just enough for clearance . I used two way tape to mount first to check for hood hinge clearance
Very good video. Nice and pretty install. I'm going to copy. For your wire size nomenclature you have a minor misunderstanding. Yout wire is not 4 aught. The aught nomenclature is for the very large sizes of wire bigger than 1. 0 guage = 1/0 - one aught 00 guage = 2/0 two aught aught is a zero. 4/0 would be gigantic. It isn't the same as #4.
Thanks! I believe I was saying "AWG", as in auger. I should have been saying "gauge" instead because it sounds very similar to "aught"..lol, just always the way I've said it.
@@OvensGarage I've never heard anybody pronounce the acronym AWG and all the men in my family are electricians. I guess you learn more than one thing some days.
I'm looking to do this exact thing. I have all the parts (fuseblock, cables, circuit breaker etc) but can't find a good tutorial on mounting it to the engine bay. I understand the electrical part, but not the fastening-to-the-engine-wall part. What tools do you need to get the fuse block and relays solidly bolted into the wall?
Hi I just used stainless steel screws of different sizes, then pre drilled pilot holes for those screws and then screwed each piece in where I wanted it.
hi tyler. nice work. i recently put power seats in the 93 1st gen. i caused a short and blew a 30 amp fuse. i replaced the fuse but now i don't have any power mirrors or radio... I'm wondering if theirs a rely or a circuit under the hood i might have blown. if you could give me some pointers that would be great.
My gauges require constant power, I know some dash cams require constant power, some things you may want wired constant instead of switched...like an air compressor or something. I prefer most of my circuits to switch on and off with the key but there are some things that need constant power.
@@shanefisher7061 the 80 amp was too low as suspected so I opted to switch it out with a 150 amp breaker. The grid heaters draw 230 amps combined for a max of 15 or 20 seconds depending how cold it is out. The 150 amp breaker can hold that load for that period no problem. The trip delay curves are on blue seas website for the breaker.
Has anyone done a fuse box relocation ! The factory fuse box and it's location is primitive at best ! Surely after 29 years someone has ! I hope ! If so please link the info !
Yeah the factory fuse box location is in a terrible spot. I don't recall anyone I can think of that has done it. If anyone has they would have completely redone the wiring in the truck entirely which is likely a big job.
Blue Seas customer service is second to none as well as their quality.
They warranty their products, no questions asked. Don't even ask for proof of purchase. I have had nothing but great experience with them, highly recommended!
That's awesome to hear!
I did marine grade for all of my primary wires and battery cables. Great choice!
I love this idea, we will definitely be doing this to our Ram.
We find your videos very informative especially that we just bought our first 1992 D250 that we are doing a 4wd conversion on and will be upgrading as we work on the truck.
Check out hogback fabrication if you are doing a 4wd swap he makes a good front leafspring mount and rear shackles. Good luck with the swap!
@@OvensGarage I did chat with them today and they do indeed make a fine product.
I do like the idea of Archives front shackle mounts and it also strengthens the front end.
@@outdoormountainman them too! I just installed his front bracket and it's so heavy duty I love it!
Great Video!! Very Informative, Tyler!!
Another well done tutorial. I have 1 tip for you. Which I'm pretty sure you already know. (I know the relay leads are short, as you mentioned.) BUT if it rains or gets wet from washing and cleaning those relays will fill with water. As you know it will come in and down btwn the fender n hood. Don't leave them that way long. Just a tip form a friend. Or it'll be a headache. Otherwise real nice clean, tidy professional install. "As always" We expect no less from you. 👍
Thanks Ron. Yeah I couldn't find a good spot to mount them right away. Will look for another spot when I go to swap out to a bigger circuit breaker.
@@OvensGarage Really did turn out nice and clean !
Hope this is still followed? My 93 W250 has just thrown the pcm, alt failure at me 376K kms. So, I like Rich Debosses 4-5 circuit breaker from battery idea eliminating the 1-time fusible links. My question is the relays exposed as mentioned eh Could one use the weatherproof switch/ connection AC boxes for xmas/ feature lighting if adding a large solid ground to the fender panel? These survive all weather and house washing eh I have a spare and thought maybe a great option
Very detailed tutorial. But I have one question, I know this setup is overkill for what I’m trying to do but can I run my power seats off the constant side?
Yep
What was the reason for that fuze link that you put in under your dash?
I kind of did something similar but I used a MAXI fuse block to eliminate all the fuse link wiring. It is in an old video probably 4-5 years ago.
Would add a link to that video please !
@@jimb7922 I went looking for it and couldn't find it. I did it around the time I put the airbags on. ruclips.net/video/M9PvGh6VxMQ/видео.html
I need to do an update video probably on the whole truck. I have to get into why my speedo goes crazy from time to time anyway.
@@bcbloc02 my speedo went out also….
@@msoul3248 totally quit or just reads the mph wrong? Mine still counts miles fine but usually when it first starts out the needle is all over the place. After a couple hours driving it starts to behave.
@@bcbloc02 at first it would show some response but then it went completely out.
Then I lost my a/c, charge indicator gauge, OD, & CC which lead me to this video and looking into adding a fuse block to eliminate the crazy wiring and fusible links.
Great job! I love how clean it turned out. I need to do this but I’m a little intimidated by electrical. Did this project delete the “ duck foot”?
Electrical take a bit of patience but if it's done right it'll last a long time! This project keeps all the factory wiring in tact and does not delete the fusible links. It only relocates the factory wiring from the positive terminal to a bus bar after a circuit breaker.
@@OvensGarage Why didn't you replace the fuseable links and put them in your fuse box right there? I'm thinking about doing this as well, but would like to get rid of the fuseable links as part of it.
@@jasont6849 I didn't replace the fusible links because there were nothing wrong with mine.
@@OvensGarage Thank you for your video posts. I have a 93 D250 which just topped 200,000m and almost immediately I lost OD, CC, alt charge, speedo, and a/c. I have watched your video on the ecm rebuild and the fuse block add ons. The videos are very helpful and concise. I think I may send my ecm off but trouble shooting has been aided by your time and videos.
Awesome video but one question did you eliminate the Ducks Foot and power those through the fus block ??
Nope I kept the fusible links in place. Nothing wrong with them so I left them.
One Question, are you sure that pink wire from the battery terminal goes to the flashers? if you disconnect it will your pickup still start or does it have a dead key? I think the pink goes from the battery to that connector and then via a brown wire to the starter solenoid. I have a 1991 pre 1991.5 and mine goes to the starter. the flasher/hazard seem to come off the main fuse block. I will have to dig the wiring diagram out. Great install on the buss bar and fuse block. I looks like a fairly easy clean up of that wire mess that is first gen. really enjoy your videos as you do pretty much everything top notch. Thanks
According to my FSM that wire traces back to the hazard flasher..unless I was reading it wrong. Thanks for watching!
Looks really clean 👍how did you manage to get clearance from your hood hinge when the hood is closed ? I can’t mount my fuse block this way without clearance issues
I tested it before mounting it permanently. Its tight but it works ans doesn't rub.
@@OvensGarage the one I bought is 2” deep , the blue seas unit is 1.5” , maybe that half inch is just enough for clearance . I used two way tape to mount first to check for hood hinge clearance
Very good video. Nice and pretty install. I'm going to copy.
For your wire size nomenclature you have a minor misunderstanding. Yout wire is not 4 aught. The aught nomenclature is for the very large sizes of wire bigger than 1.
0 guage = 1/0 - one aught
00 guage = 2/0 two aught
aught is a zero.
4/0 would be gigantic. It isn't the same as #4.
Thanks! I believe I was saying "AWG", as in auger. I should have been saying "gauge" instead because it sounds very similar to "aught"..lol, just always the way I've said it.
@@OvensGarage Great Video, try and find this information anywhere else and you will not. Keep the great videos coming.
@@OvensGarage I've never heard anybody pronounce the acronym AWG and all the men in my family are electricians. I guess you learn more than one thing some days.
Could you close the hood after ?
Yes! No issues with interference
I'm looking to do this exact thing. I have all the parts (fuseblock, cables, circuit breaker etc) but can't find a good tutorial on mounting it to the engine bay. I understand the electrical part, but not the fastening-to-the-engine-wall part. What tools do you need to get the fuse block and relays solidly bolted into the wall?
Hi I just used stainless steel screws of different sizes, then pre drilled pilot holes for those screws and then screwed each piece in where I wanted it.
Does a circuit breaker like that kill all power from the battery as good as a battery kill switch?
The way I have it set up when the circuit breaker is flipped off there's no power to anything on the truck.
@@OvensGarage that's a nice fire safe mechanism for truck storage
You did a great job explaining everything but I'm still too stupid to figure it out
I believe in you!!
hi tyler. nice work. i recently put power seats in the 93 1st gen. i caused a short and blew a 30 amp fuse. i replaced the fuse but now i don't have any power mirrors or radio... I'm wondering if theirs a rely or a circuit under the hood i might have blown. if you could give me some pointers that would be great.
Sounds like you might have blown the fusible link. Check the driver's side fender near the ducks foot and see if any of the wires are burnt up
I’m curious if you are willing to do some work on my first gen! I’m on the island as well and having heaps of electrical problems 😂😂
Where are you located? I'm willing to lend advice and maybe a hand if you are local!
Whats the cost of all this roughly?
so did this delete the pcm?
No, the stock pcm stays in place as well as the stock fusible links.
I am looking to do this! I am thinking of putting all circuits on switched circuits. Is there anything which will need constant power?
My gauges require constant power, I know some dash cams require constant power, some things you may want wired constant instead of switched...like an air compressor or something. I prefer most of my circuits to switch on and off with the key but there are some things that need constant power.
@@OvensGarage thank you for the help! One more question did the breaker end up holding up with the demand from the grid heaters?
@@shanefisher7061 the 80 amp was too low as suspected so I opted to switch it out with a 150 amp breaker. The grid heaters draw 230 amps combined for a max of 15 or 20 seconds depending how cold it is out. The 150 amp breaker can hold that load for that period no problem. The trip delay curves are on blue seas website for the breaker.
You didn’t need to but could you duck foot through this system
Has anyone done a fuse box relocation ! The factory fuse box and it's location is primitive at best ! Surely after 29 years someone has !
I hope ! If so please link the info !
Yeah the factory fuse box location is in a terrible spot. I don't recall anyone I can think of that has done it. If anyone has they would have completely redone the wiring in the truck entirely which is likely a big job.
I do boats, there's china grade and marine grade. China grade is not marina grade no matter what the advertisement says.
Is there a china marine grade?