DV1 Clear For Base Coat & Clear Coat
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- My ramblings on the Devilbiss DV1 Clear Spraygun, hope you enjoy the video, cheers everyone, thanks for watching 👍
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Thanks for watching
The same people that rag on the lack of speed will praise the LPH400, which makes no sense. However, there's a difference between production vs. restoration. It's obviously not for everyone. I prefer a slow gun for better control.
Hi Boss, I can certainly believe that, I've never used a LPH400 but it's a split tip low pressure Iwata, as is the Wider4L, and they are very good, but, as you say, they are relatively slow, this is also.
Even though the DV1 goes about its delivery in a different way it achieves very good results, which should appeal to someone after results rather than just speed, and, as you say, more control, cheers, buddy 👍
Hi Pete, another great video mate I don't think I've tried the DV1 clear gun for basecoat but it's obvious from your video that is does a great job, I have used the base gun for clear and apart from being a bit slower again it does a great job👌
My favourite setup for the clear gun is the C1 cap and 1.3 tip and for me that is spot on, in fact I was using it for clear this morning plus I used it's little brother for the basecoat, hope to post it up today mate🤞😎
Thanks for sharing Pete👏👍
Hi John, Thanks, mate , I did this video a while ago when I was trying different guns for base and clear.
People often ask me to record a high-end gun for both, so it was part of that really, looking forward to seeing your work later, mate 👍
Clear dv1 gun with c1 air cap and 1.2 tip is really good, sprays well at 2 bar. Using it for couple years now doing about 25-35 jobs a day (anything from small jobs to full resprays) and rather happy with the performance. In fact I wouldn’t change it for any other gun😉
Also base and clear dv1 guns never went wrong on me, feel really bullet proof to be honest. Of course when people smash any gun on the floor kick them about the workshop they go wrong but I don’t do that to my guns😂
Hi buddy, I don't do full resprays of cars, I just don't have the facilities so I can't comment on this gun for that with any real authority so I really glad you have said what you have.
I feel sure, the guy wanting a good quality finish with speed being secondary will find this gun great, I appreciate its not for everyone, what is really?, but it does a good job.
The build is very good, although I would really like to see Devilbiss going away from the gasket sealing around the baffle, its better on the DV1 than the Pro Lite as the DV1 screws down rather than being compressed by the tip but not having it at all would be better, appreciate the comments, cheers 👍
Thanks for sharing that pete I have seen the dv1 with the C1 cracking gun 🔫 lovely finish pete
Thanks Andrew 👍
Hi Pete, that’s a really nice solid purple with a really nice finish as well! Interesting notes about using a tip size down I wonder what there thinking is with that? Paint saving maybe, more for the pros out there, not sure. Good video as always cheers.
Hi Steve, I think they were just trying to be seen in the same light as Sata.
Sata always come up a little big, so a 1.2 is like many manufacturers 1.3 and so on. To be honest, mate, I think it's all marketing mumbo-jumbo. There is certainly more of it in the auto paint trade than most, cheers mate
Spray gun professor Pete 👊🏾
Hi Shaq, Thanks, mate, much appreciated 👍
Much prefer the analog version but that's my age I suppose
The c1 cap is a lot slower compared to the c2 so I've been told as I wont purchase to near to retirement to justify the retail cost but thanks for the vid 😊😊
Hi Dean, Yes, the C2 cap is more on a par with the TE20, the C1, more like the T110, so slower but a little finer atomisation.
I agree about the digital versions, I got this used but hardly used, so it was cheaper than the standard version, that's why i bought the none digital WS & LS 400s, easier to clean, cheaper and just as good.
Thanks for watching, mate 👍
Hi Pete, what clear coat brands do you like that you find flow out particularly well ? I have used Upol 2084 low voc 2:1 and it looks nice after buffing but not the easiest to get z flat finish off the gun.
Hi Mitchell, I haven't used 2084 because we don't get it in the UK, but I think it's similar to the Upol 2080, which doesn't flow particularly well.
I really like the Kapci 6030. It is not particularly expensive compared to most, flows out really well, has good gloss levels, and can polish up ok if needed, the Mipa CX4 is also very good but more expensive, it's an express clear so not so good for big areas but 3 or 4 panels would be fine, goes off rock hard so don't leave too long before polishing
Looks to be putting out tons of clear to me - as much as my prolite anyway.
Hi Ken, it does well. It's very much a thin "I " pattern, and atomisation is very fine. The speed and finish are more like the pro lite with the T110. The C2 cap is more like the TE20 but probably still a little slower, cheers mate 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 Hi Pete, I had to go check, it's been a long while since I used any guns, I have the TE10 and TE20 caps so I can't relate to the T110. I am enjoying your site, glad I found it.
Hi Ken, the TE10 is the same speed wise as the T110. Normally, the T110 is a clear cap, and the TE10 is a base cap, although obviously, you will get away with either.
Good to hear you're enjoying the channel, mate. I genuinely enjoy making the videos and chatting away. Cheers 👍
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Thanks buddy 🙏
DV1 is a good Spray gun, sprays well. Sometimes I use thicker clear. I feel like I need a spray gun with 1.4 nozzle tip?
Hi James, Yes, that's normally the way. A UHS or genuine HS benefits from a larger tip. Some people buy a 1.4 in the hope it will speed it up, it does, but not by a lot
Pete when painting a vehicle it takes longer compared to other guns and this is why.
Hi buddy, yeah, I do get it. A few people have said that no matter what they do, it goes on dry with this gun. Now, the Upol I use a lot is more prone to that than most, so I can only assume they are still going too fast and maybe holding the gun too far away for this setup.
The C2 helps as it is definitely faster, but I'm sure there are many that would appreciate the flat finish the C1 can produce even though it is slow but are put off from what others say, I'm thinking of custom and despoke builders rather than busy bodyshops.
Appreciate you taking the time to comment. it is much appreciated 👍
Pete, He's what I've got against the DV1, and it's particularly a problem for the once in awhile painter, is that the battery of the digital gauge IS NOT REPLACEABLE. To fix this you must pay $200 for another digital gauge. The battery life is estimated by DeVilbiss to be two years which is in my opinion a big problem. The gun is expensive to begin with and now I've got to buy a $200 gauge every two years. NOT FOR ME.
Hi Sataman, the batterys are factory replaceable, which I agree is not acceptable. The cost of the service in the UK is around 120 GBP all in, around 165 USD, which is stupid.
I've never had to replace them yet, but when the time comes, I will try and do it myself. They are standard button batterys as far as I know, but they are soldered or spot welded, supposedly to conform to ATEX specification.
When it happens, I will do a video so we can see how I get on, I used to do a similar thing to some power tools batteries, so hopefully, that will work the same. 👍
I never like a digital so I replaced if for manual and sold digital. Manual cost around $50.
G’day Pete just wanted to know what your thoughts are about pound for pound between the C1 and the B+ for basecoat which do you prefer as I tried this today with my C1 cap on base and very impressed is the B+ a step up again or is like a much of a muchness sideways step? As the C1 reminds of the TE10 for base but uses 2 and half times the air.
Hi Graham, the CI and B+ look like the same caps apart from the markings, so you won't gain anything really.
It's one-off the reasons many like the B+ for clear coat, glad you bought up the amount of air the DV1 uses compared to the Gti pro lite TE10 as Devilbiss say they are the same which they clearly are not
Thanks for the advice as soon as I did it that’s how it went for me I had to try as i bought the basecoat gun but the supplier mucked up and gave me a B cap I gave it a shot and just about threw it against the booth wall I saw one of your other videos mentioned it but with no editing on this video so I thought what’s to loose but I was wondering the fan sizes which would give you a better fan pattern or would they be the same? But the DV1’s are air hogs I think so they can get such a fine atomisation.
I've never tried a pattern test on the base versus the clear caps so can't say for sure although the caps look the same and the gun is as well apart from colours so I'm sure it would, I have all the caps so a spray out would be a good idea
Hey mate thought I’d get back in touch with you about this I got the b plus air cap and tried it turns out there’s a difference between the two as the B plus fan is slightly smaller but fatter and the c1 is longer and skinnier so I guess the B plus is a O pattern and the C1 is an I but good result with both but I like the O pattern over an I thought I’d share it with you to see your opinion and I also use a 1.4 tip in both base and clear with amazing results too.👍🇦🇺🍻
Also clearing with a C2 aircap
Quickie Pete how long can I leave a base coat before clear ?
Hi Keith, it depends on the basecoat, but it will normally be 1 to 2 hours max. It is best to as soon as it's gone off as the clear adears better.
If you get stuck and can't do it till the next day, then just do another single coat of base before you clear, it livens up the base again, or a basecoat binder which is a clear basecoat.
You can also go over it with some grey scotchbright, but I'm not keen on that as it can sometimes change the look of the paint if you overdo it
Beyond 24hrs wet sand with 1000 grit and clear.
@@mitchellferre1652 ok so I can wet sand metallic and pearl before clear ?
@keithmon1234 I would take Pete's advice and lay down another coat of base coat and then clear it. It has to be scuffed beyond 24hrs and another coat of base will fill in fine scratches from a gray scotch Brite. If it was a solid color it would be scuff and clear. If it's solvent base coat your using, the base coat has a bite to it in itself from the reducer. If it's not clear coated within the manufacturers window it becomes a salvage operation, good luck 👍🏼
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Thanks mate 👍
My only issue with the dv1 is there's guns better suited to me personally for the money 👍 . For clear , I put it in the same category as the ws400 ...
The finish you can get off the gun is as good as anything out there , but not a gun I'd recommend for large panels or full resprays .
Horses for courses , the dv1 t1 is perfect for thinner materials , minor repair work or anywhere you need total precision 👍
Hi Andrew, I think you have summed it up really well, It's very much like the WS400 in both speed and finish.
I would also agree that there are better VFM guns out there, the Iwata Kiwami4 BA4J which has the speed and retains quality, or the WBX, on a par with the WS400 and DV1 but just over half the price, cheers mate 👍
Hi Pete, when can we expect full review of Chinese NVE Devilbiss DV1 Copy?
Hi buddy, it shouldn't be too long, I like to use it a fair bit to make a genuine review, trying it for basecoat and clear to get a good feel for it.
Do you truly need a £500 spray gun to paint bike tanks?
Hi buddy, of course not 🤣😂, you don't need a £500 spray gun to spray anything to be honest, but need and want are a different thing 😉 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 I can spray tanks well with my 20-year-old Sata Minijet 3000. Still works great.
Yeah, you don't need to keep spending money. If something works well, there's no point in changing it.
I know I'm completely over the top for what I do, I just really like seeing what the differences are between the various guns, etc, it's great to be able to share it with you guys as well, cheers buddy 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 Do you ever spray cars? There is a guy in the US who claims a $50 Chinese spray gun, works just as well as $600 name brand guns. Cant see that myself, but he does seem to get good results with it..........
Yes, I've never done a complete car, I haven't got the facilities, but I do bumpers/fenders, bonnets/ hoods, etc.
I tend to stick to the bike stuff as its more of what I like, the standard of finish expected is normally higher on bikes than cars, not show or custom stuff by in general bikers are more in love with there bikes.
I've been using an R500 a few times recently, and that's cheap and sprays ok. I can't see it lasting long, to be honest, but we will see
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Thank you, sir 🙏