This is just the type of video I was looking for. I can DIY many home things, but plumbing is something I have done little of, so this was extremely helpful! Off to watch your other videos....
I am a DIY person and I downloaded your video so that I can watch it over and over to get to know-how about plumbing. Thank you for the details explanation.
just so the viewers know what to call the different types of couplings. 1. Roll Stop coupling: has a rolled groove around the circumference of the coupling. Prevents the pipe from being inserted more than 1/2 way. 2. Stake Stop coupling: has 1 indented place in the center, also to prevent insertion more than 1/2 way. 3. No Stop coupling: no groove nor stake; allows the pipe to be inserted at an adjustable depth for soldering. I know alot of people are looking into videos like this due to extreme costs from plumbing companies, so if you're just starting to solder copper pipe and fittings, get a few fittings and practice with them before jumping into a job and prevent you from making costly errors.
Wow rectally helpful I have been fighting with my shower water lines for 2 weeks and spent hundreds of dollars an still leaking but I think iv got it figured out now
Nice, thank you. I’m not sure what advantage or use a coupling without a stop has over one that does. You said it can be useful (paraphrasing) but you cautioned to mark it so you get at least center, again, paraphrasing. It seems like an extra step with no real advantage that I can see. If someone can offer an example, I’d appreciate it. Just a curious guy, thanks in advance.
I do plumbing as a profession in Texas so I'm not looking to learn anything but I'm trying to find out if copper fittings are they type m or type L copper? I assume they're L but I can't find that info and I get different answers from different plumbers.
You got me on this one because I have never seen a spec for type L fittings but the tubbing often on commercial jobs is required to be type L and some times also brazed. I looked on the Copper Development Association Inc. web site where they list all of the ASTM's and ASME's for copper pipe, tubing, and fittings. Wrought Copper, Solder-Joint Pressure Fittings: ASME B16.22 Cast Copper Alloy, Solder-Joint Pressure Fittings: ASME B16.18 So from what I can tell, the ASME only deals with how the fittings are made, not different wall thicknesses or socket lengths. Hope this helps and if you ever find additional info, post it so we all can learn a bit more. Thanks, Dan
There are NO videos on how to connect the 1/2-in Copper Threaded Adapter Fittings. These fittings are threaded on one end and require solder on the other end. Do they require teflon on the threaded end? Will teflon burn once installed in shower valve and then try to solder pipe to the fitting?
I have a few questions if they make L & M type of copper tubing do they make the same for the fittings? EX: elbow & tee, etc., also how would you pressure test a system in a brand new home that had no water in the copper tubing lines yet? I would imagine you would just cap every line off and put a pressure gauge on one of them and pressurize it like to 100 psi and look for a pressure drop.
How about industry standard terminology. Especially when it comes to changing pipe sizes with reducers. I.e the fitting goes inside vs outside the part. Flush reducer X street... There ate so many variations. In the United catalog i see ftg and C I think and there is no legend. Ie. A flush fitting reducer isnt a coupling, although it is.
Andriy, while that would be a cheaper option and not require a special fitting, most plumbers in the states don't bend copper tubing. If, and when we did, it was often 3/8" soft drawn copper that comes in rolls using a spring bender for supply lines to faucets and ice makers. Those of course have been largely replaced by flexible supply lines that don't rely on compression style fittings. The refrigeration / HVAC industry though still use traps. The trap fitting that I show would be useful in a thin wall where you would need to cross over another pipe without having to use 4-45 degree bends and three short lengths of tubing saving 6 solder joints and less potential of leaks, but we are good enough to not get those!
I will have to check that out sometime. Some of the benefits from that is less time and cost in fittings leading to fewer spots for leaks, and the lower resistance to flow. Bends would flow better then fittings like 90 degree fittings. Do you happen to swage the ends of your pipes to create couplings? I saw a tool for that a long time ago but have never used one. Thanks for the comments!
Good video, however K type pipe is not DWV. K is the thickest type of water supply with the highest pressure rating of the three, and green print on the side. It is expensive and usually found in commercial buildings such as plants or labs, as well as buried water supply mains. DWV is not meant for supply and has no pressure rating, but for drainage. Due to the increasing demand on the copper industry and rising cost, ABS has pretty well knocked it off of the market.
This is just the type of video I was looking for. I can DIY many home things, but plumbing is something I have done little of, so this was extremely helpful! Off to watch your other videos....
I am a DIY person and I downloaded your video so that I can watch it over and over to get to know-how about plumbing. Thank you for the details explanation.
just so the viewers know what to call the different types of couplings.
1. Roll Stop coupling: has a rolled groove around the circumference of the coupling. Prevents the pipe from being inserted more than 1/2 way.
2. Stake Stop coupling: has 1 indented place in the center, also to prevent insertion more than 1/2 way.
3. No Stop coupling: no groove nor stake; allows the pipe to be inserted at an adjustable depth for soldering.
I know alot of people are looking into videos like this due to extreme costs from plumbing companies, so if you're just starting to solder copper pipe and fittings, get a few fittings and practice with them before jumping into a job and prevent you from making costly errors.
thanks for sharing!
Good information
Great video! Thanks a bunch!
Nice video! Thanks for sharing all the information!
Thanks for watching!
Very nicely done. Thank you
☺️ the lessons is very informative .thank you for sharing.
Thanks! i like ur style, clear and complete explanations, just suscribed!
Thanks. I'm learning. Good info.
Wow rectally helpful I have been fighting with my shower water lines for 2 weeks and spent hundreds of dollars an still leaking but I think iv got it figured out now
Very nice and to the point. thank you
Nice, thank you. I’m not sure what advantage or use a coupling without a stop has over one that does. You said it can be useful (paraphrasing) but you cautioned to mark it so you get at least center, again, paraphrasing. It seems like an extra step with no real advantage that I can see. If someone can offer an example, I’d appreciate it. Just a curious guy, thanks in advance.
@Eran Riblo - Excellent example/use case, thank you for taking the time to offer up a response.
Useful video. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Wicked helpful thank you!
Very good thanks
So the female adapter will go over the tubbing of 1/2 inch?
I do plumbing as a profession in Texas so I'm not looking to learn anything but I'm trying to find out if copper fittings are they type m or type L copper? I assume they're L but I can't find that info and I get different answers from different plumbers.
You got me on this one because I have never seen a spec for type L fittings but the tubbing often on commercial jobs is required to be type L and some times also brazed. I looked on the Copper Development Association Inc. web site where they list all of the ASTM's and ASME's for copper pipe, tubing, and fittings.
Wrought Copper, Solder-Joint Pressure Fittings: ASME B16.22
Cast Copper Alloy, Solder-Joint Pressure Fittings: ASME B16.18
So from what I can tell, the ASME only deals with how the fittings are made, not different wall thicknesses or socket lengths.
Hope this helps and if you ever find additional info, post it so we all can learn a bit more.
Thanks, Dan
There are NO videos on how to connect the 1/2-in Copper Threaded Adapter Fittings. These fittings are threaded on one end and require solder on the other end. Do they require teflon on the threaded end? Will teflon burn once installed in shower valve and then try to solder pipe to the fitting?
I have a few questions if they make L & M type of copper tubing do they make the same for the fittings? EX: elbow & tee, etc., also how would you pressure test a system in a brand new home that had no water in the copper tubing lines yet? I would imagine you would just cap every line off and put a pressure gauge on one of them and pressurize it like to 100 psi and look for a
pressure drop.
I need to connect 2" to cpvc how to do that what kind of fitting can be used expecting your help sir
How about industry standard terminology. Especially when it comes to changing pipe sizes with reducers. I.e the fitting goes inside vs outside the part. Flush reducer X street... There ate so many variations. In the United catalog i see ftg and C I think and there is no legend. Ie. A flush fitting reducer isnt a coupling, although it is.
I agree with you on that. Or is a flush fitting reducer actually a street bell reducer? Hahaha!
💯👍👍
Hii sir how to connect copper pipes to cpvc other than push in fittings
Sharkbite
all about copper pipe fittings no soldering
For the trap use your pipe bender mate)
Andriy, while that would be a cheaper option and not require a special fitting, most plumbers in the states don't bend copper tubing. If, and when we did, it was often 3/8" soft drawn copper that comes in rolls using a spring bender for supply lines to faucets and ice makers. Those of course have been largely replaced by flexible supply lines that don't rely on compression style fittings. The refrigeration / HVAC industry though still use traps. The trap fitting that I show would be useful in a thin wall where you would need to cross over another pipe without having to use 4-45 degree bends and three short lengths of tubing saving 6 solder joints and less potential of leaks, but we are good enough to not get those!
@@DanSarahMakers
I see. In the UK we use pipe bender all the time , it's very useful as the most installation in small spaces.
I will have to check that out sometime. Some of the benefits from that is less time and cost in fittings leading to fewer spots for leaks, and the lower resistance to flow. Bends would flow better then fittings like 90 degree fittings. Do you happen to swage the ends of your pipes to create couplings? I saw a tool for that a long time ago but have never used one. Thanks for the comments!
This is plumbing in America if your uk you should be watching p.b. Plumbing
Good video, however K type pipe is not DWV. K is the thickest type of water supply with the highest pressure rating of the three, and green print on the side. It is expensive and usually found in commercial buildings such as plants or labs, as well as buried water supply mains. DWV is not meant for supply and has no pressure rating, but for drainage. Due to the increasing demand on the copper industry and rising cost, ABS has pretty well knocked it off of the market.
Just an FYI, that is a running trap not a P-trap. Really good video though.
Fuck me this was helpfull