Top notch video!!!! I have a 30hp Tohatsu I’m going to change oil, lower end, impeller, thermostat, and plugs today. Get this baby ready to go catch some bass
@@tomspontoons that was a lot of work, never done this before and it was actually straight forward. I hop I did everything ok im going to go start it at the lake this afternoon 🤞
Yep! I'll bump my key to crank my 140 hp to get water out of the housing in the winter after a fishing trip so that it can't get stuck in there and freeze, but I never let it fire. Pulling that 20 hp over by hand works just as well as cranking it with the starter.
That can be a tricky one. This is a fuel injected model, so no carbs to rebuild. It’s extremely rare for a four cycle outboard to leak oil, so hope the carb rebuild fixes things!!!
Very helpful. Great vid! Thx so much. My 2021 Tohatsu has exactly 20 hrs and getting it ready for the grandkids for the summer! This takes out my guesswork.
I haven't done much work on servicing Hondas so I can't quite comment there. I do know that Tohatsu's are easy to deal with and there are probably more servicing dealers for warranty and other stuff than Honda. Plus Tohatsu has a great 5 year standard warranty and makes a fantastic product.
Great video. Something I noticed when you drained the oil. According to the owners manual you drain the oil with motor tilted up, and towards the drain plug.
Yes, that’s pretty common practice. I think it’s recommended especially for ease and keeping things clean and tidy. I will do that on bigger engines when it’s got a ton of oil and it wants to shoot out like crazy!
Thanks for your reply, I don’t claim to be an expert just reading the manual and comparing to what other people do. Also you said it had 20 hours on it before the first oil change?
@@steverowe2508 GREAT ENGINE that I had zero issues with. I sold it to purchase a 25 hp Jet outboard....and that ended up being a 2011 Mercury four stroke jet which was manufactured by Tohatsu!! Can't say enough good things about the brand.
Nice video! I have the same motor and also the same SE Sport too haha. Just did the first oil and gear change (20hrs) and the gear oil was milky. I replaced all the gaskets and fill it up with oil but I think I'll run it a bit and drain and refill again to get the milky stuff out. Hopefully it's not something like prop shaft oil seal.
Definitely run it a little while and see what happens when you drain it again. I hit some serious stuff with mine and it held up great. Hopefully you just had a bad seal!
Definitely double check to make sure this is updated, but what I found on a quick search was a Tohatsu part number 332-60006-0 Give Van's Sport Center a call. They stock them and will ship: 616-364-0666
For the bulk of it, yes. The part numbers might be different though. Honestly, any four stroke with a standard oil filter will follow these procedures. The one that's most different is Suzuki as they have a different filter system. Thanks for watching!
They're fantastic. Standard 5 year warranty all the time. I've owned several and would buy their 40 hp in a heartbeat. Tohatsu has been around forever, but didn't make their way into the US until after most of the other big Japanese brands. They have been making Mercury motors 30hp and under for the last 10+ years, and any Nissan labeled motor was made by Tohatsu. Heck, I sold my Grandma a Tohatsu for her pontoon back when I was working at a marina....if I'd sell my Grandma one it says I'm dang confident in it!!
If that's your motor could you do a video on the pros and cons of the hydrofoil and give your honest opinion because I was thinking of installing one on my 2014 20hp Tohatsu which is on a 2011 Tracker 16' deep V Laker. Thanks
I ran that motor originally on a 16' flat bottom. It did great with 2 people and gear...not a super heavy jon boat, riveted one with 48" bottom width. I moved it over to a custom boat I built from scratch and it needed the hydrofoil because I made the boat a tunnel hull and the hydrofoil helped keep it from ventilating. My tunnel design apparently wasn't great! I would say with hydrofoils, always run your boat first without it. You might find you don't need it at all. I would usually adjust the propeller first if the boat isn't planing quickly enough or the motor is laboring to get the boat on plane (if so go down 1-2" in propeller pitch for more low end torque). If a prop change improves it but still isn't giving you exactly what you want, then add the hydrofoil for quicker planing or to get the prop to run cleaner (less cavitation/ventilation).
Hi! Great video! Is it all the same oil everywhere? I put too much oil in my engine and need to drain some out. Which part do I drain? Or all of it? Anyone?
@@Reguez01 0:45 of this video shows the bolt and draining process. If you're only trying to drain a little bit out it will get pretty messy, so have a few rags on hand and I'd throw down some cardboard on the ground!!
Great question! The Merc gear lube got it 99% of the way full, but ran out. It took about 2 pumps of Yamaha gear lube to top it off. Same weight, so not worried about having the two different brands in there, especially in such a small amount of the Yamaha lube.
2021 4stroke tohatsu, when motor isn't running and in forward gear can you turn the prop clockwise buy hand, I can't in reverse but in forwards I can. Is this a safety thing or is something else wrong?
When the motor is in gear you shouldn't be able to spin it in the opposite direction, at least that's been my experience. A lot of folks will shift their motor in gear for travel to prevent the prop from spinning while trailering to reduce wear and tear on the lower unit.
Have a 8hp tohatsu and took off my prop shaft and put it back in and don’t remember if they spun freely or are they suppose to spin a little bit and click over?
@@tomspontoons my reverse I can hear a louder click over and in neutral and forward I hear a quiter click. I have made sure the gears are aligned and that pin is aligned
@@Jason-sf6db Hmm, I have never heard a click in neutral. Only other place to check is the linkage from the shift cable on the shift linkage under the hood to make sure it's fully in neutral.
I’d like to ask you a question about a Tohatsu motor concerning the tilt tube and steering cable. Where the steering cable rod exits the tube and comes out to connect onto the steel linkage of the motor, should there be anything there besides just a rubber cap? Mine only has a rubber cap, they call it a drag link seal ring, part number 3F3849080. I feel this cap should serve as a wiper seal but it doesn’t even make contact with the rod. It is threaded on and if I back it off there is nothing else there. No tube insert or anything. It lets grease come out of the tube and lets dirt get in. I replaced the first one after just a few months because it dried and cracked. The second one now has also. I would like to replace this with a metal nut with a grease fitting and a built in wiper seal. As it is now, the steering cable rod vibrates like crazy at the point where it exits the tube. I believe I found one that should fit, if the tube is 7/8”. Am I understanding that right? Surely there should be something more than just that cap.
I am not 100% sure on that, but most motors will have an o ring that sits tight to the steering rod and seals things off. The plastic cap just sort of then holds the o ring in place. You may just have to go to the hardware store and buy a couple beefy o rings that will fit it and seal that up for you.
@@tomspontoons since all I have is a threaded rubber cap then I’m wondering if that would even hold O-rings in place. I think I’m gonna take a chance and order the metal nut. I found an aluminum one for about $19, and a stainless steel one for $37. They both have grease points and a built in O-ring. That would be much more solid and prevent the rod from moving and vibrating, I believe.
What are your thoughts on the Tohatsu outboard motors. Looking to repower my Pontoon boat and find these are significantly cheaper than Yamaha, Suzuki and others. From what I’ve read they are manufactured by Honda and are popular in other countries.
I love Tohatsu motors. So much so that when I was a sales manager at a local marina I sold my own grandma a 9.9hp Tohatsu for her pontoon boat! Here's the rundown: - Tohatsu has been in the top two or three outboard manufacturers worldwide for a long long time. They're fairly new in the US, and were better known as Nissan (their own motor branded with the Nissan name). In the last 10 years they've really grown in popularity because of their high quality engineering and their standard 5 year warranty. - They have manufactured Mercury outboards 30hp and under for about 15-20 years now. So if Mercury is willing to put their name on a Tohatsu product you know it's quality. - Honda made some of Tohatsu's bigger four strokes for a while, but now from what I know they only make the 150hp and up. Tohatsu makes their own motors up to 140hp, and I imagine they will continue to build their own bigger motors over time. - I would put Tohatsu up against any other manufacturer in terms of quality and reliability. The best part about outboards right now is that you can't go wrong. The engineering has been fine tuned and every brand is making the best outboards we've ever seen in terms of dependability, fuel economy, etc. With any brand, make sure you have a servicing dealer nearby just in case you run into any issues.
I have a 2022 Tohatsu 20HP on a Paddle King Lo Pro Angler pontoon. Small 13’3” boat just 7’ wide and 20HP is the max for it. It planes it out nicely on the water. Not sure of my speed but that is a factor affected by many things (boat weight, wind, water chop, even pontoon log shape because mine are not round, they’re squarish with flat bottoms). But I’m satisfied with my speed and the motor performance. I’ve only had it since September 2021 so it’s had a full season and part of another for usage so far. Time will tell about its longevity and dependability, but I have no doubts really.
Subbed! Another question, I noticed your Tohatsu has a hydrofoil. I’ve heard people say these work and others say they’re pointless. I have my 20HP Tohatsu on a small 13’3” Paddle King Lo Pro Angler pontoon. It planes it out and I can run along quite nicely but sometimes I wish I had just a little more lift, or maybe could get up on plane faster. Sometimes in very choppy water I cannot plane out at all, and it kind of feels like I’m riding a 4-wheeler off road as I ride the waves when that happens. Do you believe a hydrofoil would help any at all?
Thanks!!! I had to add it on that boat because it was a tunnel hull and had cavitation issues. I’ve added them on other boats hoping for more help and didn’t get much…other folks swear by them. I’d think it would help you plan a little faster though on your setup. No speed gain usually though!
I have one on my 15hp Tohatsu on a 14 foot Landau flatbottom. It does allow me to get on plane faster, however, I think it has cost me some of my top end speed. Not a lot, maybe 2-3 mph but the trade being able to get on plane faster was worth it to me. I have found no difference on smooth or choppy water. I am satisfied with the effect it has on my boat.
I have a 2022 20HP Tohatsu and I believe my owner’s manual maintenance schedule shows to change the filter for the first time on the second oil change, not the first. I’m away from the house just now so I will look at this again and verify it once I get back home. But I recall last spring when I changed it for the first time, I saw that and didn’t change the filter on the first oil change for that reason. Any reason it might suggest that?
I honestly never read the owners manual for my motor. Back when I was selling outboards our service department always recommended the filter change on the first so that if any machining flakes or shavings were in the oil they’d get filtered in the first few hours and then you could start fresh. Only reason I could see waiting is simply because the first change is usually after only 10-20 hours. Then the rest are every 100.
Ok, I got my manual and looked it up. It is on the periodic inspection chart where I saw this. Maybe I misunderstood it, I don’t know. It shows on the chart under “inspection intervals” to change the oil within the (first 20 hours or 1 month), also (every 50 hours or 3 months), and also (every 100 hours or 6 months). Then also still under “inspection intervals” it shows to change the filter (every 200 hours or 1 year), but under “inspection procedure” it says replace the filter (every 200 hours or 2 years). So I took all this to mean that the oil may be changed several times in a year but the filter might not need to be changed every time. At any rate, I think I’m going to just change the filter every time. I just wanted to reply back and clear up/add to what I had first said.
@@duanebledsoe7566 General rule for us midwestern folks who run their boat 6-8 months a year on a semi regular basis: - Oil and filter change after break in is completed. - oil and filter change once a year unless you’re a heavy boater. Lower Unit Gear lube at end of season too when changing the oil/filter. Most boats we serviced in Michigan got 20-30 hours a season!!!
@@tomspontoons and how often would you change the impeller? as a precautionary measure before it seize... like it just happened on a '90's used 2-stroke 15hp merc
@@riccardostefani1966 maintenance schedule for impellers ranges from 1-3 years. Just depending on where and how it’s run. If it’s on a duck boat going through crud and shallows all the time it’s going to need it more often…whereas a boat that never goes shallow won’t likely need it as often.
I changed my oil and lower unit lube tonight in my 20HP Tohatsu. My motor is just like this one. I used Lucas 10w-40 extreme duty outboard oil because the owner’s manual shows it is good up to 96°+, and only shows 10w-30 good to 88°. I didn’t want to have to worry about using the boat when it is very hot outside, but I also don’t want the engine to have to work harder to pump thicker oil. I figure most of the time the outside temp will be lower, but when it is very hot out, that’s when I want to use the boat the most. Any thoughts on this? Also used 80w-90 weight Lucas gear oil. I noticed you used a straight 90 weight. The manual says 80 or 90, either one, so I guess I’m good with what I used? Oddly I noticed my top plug had no gasket when I removed it, but the bottom one did. I just ordered some to replace it.
I actually run my fishing boats in the colder months when river fishing here in Michigan...and definitely never in the extreme heat. I'm sure 99% of the time it'll be non-extreme conditions for most people to where it won't cause any trouble even over the long term. I've just always run oils and gear lubes from the outboard manufacturers versus Lucas, Amsoil, or other options, and the 90 weight is what the marina down the road recommends for most outboards. I'd say you're just fine if you're in the specs of what the manual called for. Check in the threads of the lower unit for that gasket. If the motor was new there's no way they left the seal out from the factory! A lot of times the gasket will get stuck in there and is hard to see because it's dark. Doesn't hurt to put a new one on, but check in there first.
@@tomspontoons I checked twice to see if I missed it. It’s definitely not there. The lower plug has a white gasket on it. The upper plug had nothing. Do the motors come prefilled with fluids or would they have been added by the dealer? I bought it new, and the dealer had ordered it and installed it on the boat I was buying at the same time. He had set it up and performed the first break in run prior to me taking possession so I wonder if it’s possible it was lost during the initial set up. Oh, one other thing. I called a marine shop to ask about 10w-40 vs 10w-30 and mentioned the 88° and 96° temps shown in the manual and the guy told me that is in reference to the internal engine temperature as opposed to the ambient temperature outside. Does this sound right? I would think internal engine temps would be a lot hotter than that.
@@duanebledsoe7566 They come with lower unit lube ready to go in the box. That's definitely a first for me to know of if Tohatsu forgot to install the gasket. I guess the dealer could have run it, checked the gear lube to make sure no water was entering, and forgot to reinstall the gasket. I see that being more likely than the factory missing that step in initial manufacturing. Either way, hopefully there was no water in and now you're taking care of it to make sure it lasts!
@@tomspontoons when I drained it I did see a white like color in the fluid. It was what I’d call semi milky. The fluid from yours in the video appears a bit darker. Even so, it did seem to be pretty viscous as I poured it from the catch pan into a scrap container with a funnel. I hope everything is still OK. So far the engine has seemed to run fine. I bought in the fall of 2021, and it got a total of 8 trips out before the season was over, and then all last year we used it without yet changing the lower unit fluid, I’d say maybe 12 to 15 times. I did change the oil though. I guess time will tell. Now that I know the gasket is not there I will wait before using it until the ones I ordered arrive and put one on the top plug. The bottom one was still good so I will leave it for now. Maybe mid season I will change the fluid again and check it all out.
@@duanebledsoe7566 I’d say the mid season check is a good idea. After the gasket is installed where it’s missing you should be worry free for a long while!!
To be completely honest, I just walked into the Tohatsu dealer down the street and told them what I was working on. I think our climate here is pretty good with either oil weight. I’ll ask next time I’m there to see what they recommend in different scenarios and why.
Top notch video!!!! I have a 30hp Tohatsu I’m going to change oil, lower end, impeller, thermostat, and plugs today. Get this baby ready to go catch some bass
Awesome! That motor will be all set and ready to go
@@tomspontoons that was a lot of work, never done this before and it was actually straight forward. I hop I did everything ok im going to go start it at the lake this afternoon 🤞
@@buttdreads Best of luck! Hope the trip was a success!
@@tomspontoons worked really well, my motor sounds completely different and runs so much better
@@buttdreadsawesome! Glad to hear!!
I just got a 15 HP Tohatsu and this video is perfect. Thanks for posting!
Glad to help! You’ll love your Tohatsu, great little motors!
It was nice to see someone turn it over by hand while it was Dry. I see many people adding Wear to their water pump parts for no reason.
Yep! I'll bump my key to crank my 140 hp to get water out of the housing in the winter after a fishing trip so that it can't get stuck in there and freeze, but I never let it fire. Pulling that 20 hp over by hand works just as well as cranking it with the starter.
Thank you for making this video. It was very helpful to me as I prepare to service my Tohatsu 9.9 after break in.
Great!! Happy to know it’ll help you out!!
great video. I have a 20 hp tohatsu also. I'm just breaking it at now, but thanks. The video makes it easy to change after the ten hours
Great! Glad it was helpful. You’ll love the motor. They start so easy with the EFI and run smooth as can be!
@@tomspontoons thanks I appreciate it
I have a 20 hp just like that and plan on changing oils this weekend. Thanks for the video!
Great engine! Hope the video helps with your project.
The video helped I have a 20 hp tohatso it leaks oil on the water after it was turned off. Had the carb rebuilt.
That can be a tricky one. This is a fuel injected model, so no carbs to rebuild. It’s extremely rare for a four cycle outboard to leak oil, so hope the carb rebuild fixes things!!!
Buying my tohatsu 9.8 tomorrow. Thx for sharing. Very informative and straight forward. Watching from Ontario Canada 🎉
Great engines, you’ll love it!! Thanks for watching.
Fantastic outboard indeed and great video also!
Thank you for watching!
Thanks not a motor guy you made it easy
I’m not a motor fixer sort of guy, but this routine maintenance is pretty simple so I like to share and help folks out!
Really easy
Another good video to do for these motors would be the grease points. How to check and add grease.
I like that idea!
It could be very interesting.
Very helpful. Great vid! Thx so much. My 2021 Tohatsu has exactly 20 hrs and getting it ready for the grandkids for the summer! This takes out my guesswork.
Glad you found it helpful!! Thanks for watching
Great Video thanks for posting
Happy to help. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!!
Nice. I'm looking at Honda and Tohatsu 20 HP and the Tohatsu looks way more accessible for service.
I haven't done much work on servicing Hondas so I can't quite comment there. I do know that Tohatsu's are easy to deal with and there are probably more servicing dealers for warranty and other stuff than Honda. Plus Tohatsu has a great 5 year standard warranty and makes a fantastic product.
Thank you so much Tohatsu 50 two stroke
A little simpler to winterize a two stroke! Thanks for watching!
Great video. Something I noticed when you drained the oil. According to the owners manual you drain the oil with motor tilted up, and towards the drain plug.
Yes, that’s pretty common practice. I think it’s recommended especially for ease and keeping things clean and tidy. I will do that on bigger engines when it’s got a ton of oil and it wants to shoot out like crazy!
Thanks for your reply, I don’t claim to be an expert just reading the manual and comparing to what other people do.
Also you said it had 20 hours on it before the first oil change?
Great video. I have a 20 HP Tohatsu. Would love to see more maintenance/repair videos on that
I don't have this motor anymore, but if I ever have one again I'll definitely show any work I do on it!
Why did you get rid of it? Any issues?
@@steverowe2508 GREAT ENGINE that I had zero issues with. I sold it to purchase a 25 hp Jet outboard....and that ended up being a 2011 Mercury four stroke jet which was manufactured by Tohatsu!! Can't say enough good things about the brand.
Nice video! I have the same motor and also the same SE Sport too haha. Just did the first oil and gear change (20hrs) and the gear oil was milky. I replaced all the gaskets and fill it up with oil but I think I'll run it a bit and drain and refill again to get the milky stuff out. Hopefully it's not something like prop shaft oil seal.
Definitely run it a little while and see what happens when you drain it again. I hit some serious stuff with mine and it held up great. Hopefully you just had a bad seal!
what part number are the seals on the drain and vent screws on the lower unit? I would like to replace mine, thanks
Definitely double check to make sure this is updated, but what I found on a quick search was a Tohatsu part number 332-60006-0
Give Van's Sport Center a call. They stock them and will ship: 616-364-0666
What camera are you using? Good graphics
We've got a few cameras (DJI and GoPro) but normally just grab my iPhone set to high definition and record!
Great video, Is the 2013 MFS20C the same procedure?
Thanks :)
For the bulk of it, yes. The part numbers might be different though. Honestly, any four stroke with a standard oil filter will follow these procedures. The one that's most different is Suzuki as they have a different filter system. Thanks for watching!
How are these tohatsu motors? Thinking of repowering with a 40 and leaning toward the tahatsu any inputs appreciated
They're fantastic. Standard 5 year warranty all the time. I've owned several and would buy their 40 hp in a heartbeat. Tohatsu has been around forever, but didn't make their way into the US until after most of the other big Japanese brands. They have been making Mercury motors 30hp and under for the last 10+ years, and any Nissan labeled motor was made by Tohatsu. Heck, I sold my Grandma a Tohatsu for her pontoon back when I was working at a marina....if I'd sell my Grandma one it says I'm dang confident in it!!
If that's your motor could you do a video on the pros and cons of the hydrofoil and give your honest opinion because I was thinking of installing one on my 2014 20hp Tohatsu which is on a 2011 Tracker 16' deep V Laker. Thanks
I ran that motor originally on a 16' flat bottom. It did great with 2 people and gear...not a super heavy jon boat, riveted one with 48" bottom width. I moved it over to a custom boat I built from scratch and it needed the hydrofoil because I made the boat a tunnel hull and the hydrofoil helped keep it from ventilating. My tunnel design apparently wasn't great!
I would say with hydrofoils, always run your boat first without it. You might find you don't need it at all. I would usually adjust the propeller first if the boat isn't planing quickly enough or the motor is laboring to get the boat on plane (if so go down 1-2" in propeller pitch for more low end torque). If a prop change improves it but still isn't giving you exactly what you want, then add the hydrofoil for quicker planing or to get the prop to run cleaner (less cavitation/ventilation).
Hi! Great video! Is it all the same oil everywhere? I put too much oil in my engine and need to drain some out. Which part do I drain? Or all of it? Anyone?
The engine oil is different than the lower unit oil. You’ll need to drain some from the crank case until you’re 1/2 to 3/4 full on the dipstick.
@@tomspontoonsHey thanks for the reply! Is the crank case the top one with the 16mm socket?
@@Reguez01 0:45 of this video shows the bolt and draining process. If you're only trying to drain a little bit out it will get pretty messy, so have a few rags on hand and I'd throw down some cardboard on the ground!!
@@tomspontoonsOk cool that's what I thought. Thankyou so much!
@@Reguez01 happy to help!
Helo can we use 20w 40 engine oil? Plz replay me
You’ll have to refer to your owners manual for those details, or call your local Tohatsu dealer.
Great video. thank you. I have a Tohatsu 6hp
Thanks! Very similar process, but I don’t remember those 6 hp four cycles having an oil filter.
where do you put that waste engine oil? the gas station, or other places?
Most Auto Parts stores will take it and dump it for you quick and easy. I've used O'Reillys Auto Parts among others!
Hello. Why is the gear lube blue at the beginning and at the end of the video you can see the hose with yellow oil?
Great question! The Merc gear lube got it 99% of the way full, but ran out. It took about 2 pumps of Yamaha gear lube to top it off. Same weight, so not worried about having the two different brands in there, especially in such a small amount of the Yamaha lube.
2021 4stroke tohatsu, when motor isn't running and in forward gear can you turn the prop clockwise buy hand, I can't in reverse but in forwards I can. Is this a safety thing or is something else wrong?
When the motor is in gear you shouldn't be able to spin it in the opposite direction, at least that's been my experience. A lot of folks will shift their motor in gear for travel to prevent the prop from spinning while trailering to reduce wear and tear on the lower unit.
@@tomspontoons when it's in gear I can't turn it anticlock wise but I can turn it clockwise.
@@bradcooper8315that’s normal as I recall, but I’ll dig into it deeper as to how/why it does that.
@@tomspontoons I'd appreciate that.
Have a 8hp tohatsu and took off my prop shaft and put it back in and don’t remember if they spun freely or are they suppose to spin a little bit and click over?
In neutral it should spin freely. In gear it'll lock in one direction and may click over in the opposite direction.
@@tomspontoons my reverse I can hear a louder click over and in neutral and forward I hear a quiter click. I have made sure the gears are aligned and that pin is aligned
@@Jason-sf6db Hmm, I have never heard a click in neutral. Only other place to check is the linkage from the shift cable on the shift linkage under the hood to make sure it's fully in neutral.
Excellent video
Thanks! And thanks for watching!
I’d like to ask you a question about a Tohatsu motor concerning the tilt tube and steering cable. Where the steering cable rod exits the tube and comes out to connect onto the steel linkage of the motor, should there be anything there besides just a rubber cap?
Mine only has a rubber cap, they call it a drag link seal ring, part number 3F3849080. I feel this cap should serve as a wiper seal but it doesn’t even make contact with the rod. It is threaded on and if I back it off there is nothing else there. No tube insert or anything. It lets grease come out of the tube and lets dirt get in.
I replaced the first one after just a few months because it dried and cracked. The second one now has also. I would like to replace this with a metal nut with a grease fitting and a built in wiper seal. As it is now, the steering cable rod vibrates like crazy at the point where it exits the tube. I believe I found one that should fit, if the tube is 7/8”. Am I understanding that right? Surely there should be something more than just that cap.
I am not 100% sure on that, but most motors will have an o ring that sits tight to the steering rod and seals things off. The plastic cap just sort of then holds the o ring in place. You may just have to go to the hardware store and buy a couple beefy o rings that will fit it and seal that up for you.
@@tomspontoons since all I have is a threaded rubber cap then I’m wondering if that would even hold O-rings in place. I think I’m gonna take a chance and order the metal nut. I found an aluminum one for about $19, and a stainless steel one for $37. They both have grease points and a built in O-ring. That would be much more solid and prevent the rod from moving and vibrating, I believe.
@@duanebledsoe7566 either way it should have an o ring or something to seal that off, keep grease in, and dirt and water out!
Thank you , good information.
Glad it was helpful!!
What are your thoughts on the Tohatsu outboard motors. Looking to repower my Pontoon boat and find these are significantly cheaper than Yamaha, Suzuki and others. From what I’ve read they are manufactured by Honda and are popular in other countries.
I love Tohatsu motors. So much so that when I was a sales manager at a local marina I sold my own grandma a 9.9hp Tohatsu for her pontoon boat! Here's the rundown:
- Tohatsu has been in the top two or three outboard manufacturers worldwide for a long long time. They're fairly new in the US, and were better known as Nissan (their own motor branded with the Nissan name). In the last 10 years they've really grown in popularity because of their high quality engineering and their standard 5 year warranty.
- They have manufactured Mercury outboards 30hp and under for about 15-20 years now. So if Mercury is willing to put their name on a Tohatsu product you know it's quality.
- Honda made some of Tohatsu's bigger four strokes for a while, but now from what I know they only make the 150hp and up. Tohatsu makes their own motors up to 140hp, and I imagine they will continue to build their own bigger motors over time.
- I would put Tohatsu up against any other manufacturer in terms of quality and reliability.
The best part about outboards right now is that you can't go wrong. The engineering has been fine tuned and every brand is making the best outboards we've ever seen in terms of dependability, fuel economy, etc. With any brand, make sure you have a servicing dealer nearby just in case you run into any issues.
I have a 2022 Tohatsu 20HP on a Paddle King Lo Pro Angler pontoon. Small 13’3” boat just 7’ wide and 20HP is the max for it. It planes it out nicely on the water. Not sure of my speed but that is a factor affected by many things (boat weight, wind, water chop, even pontoon log shape because mine are not round, they’re squarish with flat bottoms). But I’m satisfied with my speed and the motor performance. I’ve only had it since September 2021 so it’s had a full season and part of another for usage so far. Time will tell about its longevity and dependability, but I have no doubts really.
Subbed!
Another question, I noticed your Tohatsu has a hydrofoil. I’ve heard people say these work and others say they’re pointless. I have my 20HP Tohatsu on a small 13’3” Paddle King Lo Pro Angler pontoon. It planes it out and I can run along quite nicely but sometimes I wish I had just a little more lift, or maybe could get up on plane faster. Sometimes in very choppy water I cannot plane out at all, and it kind of feels like I’m riding a 4-wheeler off road as I ride the waves when that happens. Do you believe a hydrofoil would help any at all?
Thanks!!! I had to add it on that boat because it was a tunnel hull and had cavitation issues. I’ve added them on other boats hoping for more help and didn’t get much…other folks swear by them. I’d think it would help you plan a little faster though on your setup. No speed gain usually though!
I have one on my 15hp Tohatsu on a 14 foot Landau flatbottom. It does allow me to get on plane faster, however, I think it has cost me some of my top end speed. Not a lot, maybe 2-3 mph but the trade being able to get on plane faster was worth it to me. I have found no difference on smooth or choppy water. I am satisfied with the effect it has on my boat.
@@thepadillas2922 That sounds like the norm for most folks installing them on their boats.
I have a 2022 20HP Tohatsu and I believe my owner’s manual maintenance schedule shows to change the filter for the first time on the second oil change, not the first. I’m away from the house just now so I will look at this again and verify it once I get back home. But I recall last spring when I changed it for the first time, I saw that and didn’t change the filter on the first oil change for that reason. Any reason it might suggest that?
I honestly never read the owners manual for my motor. Back when I was selling outboards our service department always recommended the filter change on the first so that if any machining flakes or shavings were in the oil they’d get filtered in the first few hours and then you could start fresh. Only reason I could see waiting is simply because the first change is usually after only 10-20 hours. Then the rest are every 100.
Ok, I got my manual and looked it up. It is on the periodic inspection chart where I saw this. Maybe I misunderstood it, I don’t know. It shows on the chart under “inspection intervals” to change the oil within the (first 20 hours or 1 month), also (every 50 hours or 3 months), and also (every 100 hours or 6 months). Then also still under “inspection intervals” it shows to change the filter (every 200 hours or 1 year), but under “inspection procedure” it says replace the filter (every 200 hours or 2 years).
So I took all this to mean that the oil may be changed several times in a year but the filter might not need to be changed every time. At any rate, I think I’m going to just change the filter every time. I just wanted to reply back and clear up/add to what I had first said.
@@duanebledsoe7566 General rule for us midwestern folks who run their boat 6-8 months a year on a semi regular basis:
- Oil and filter change after break in is completed.
- oil and filter change once a year unless you’re a heavy boater. Lower Unit Gear lube at end of season too when changing the oil/filter.
Most boats we serviced in Michigan got 20-30 hours a season!!!
@@tomspontoons and how often would you change the impeller? as a precautionary measure before it seize... like it just happened on a '90's used 2-stroke 15hp merc
@@riccardostefani1966 maintenance schedule for impellers ranges from 1-3 years. Just depending on where and how it’s run. If it’s on a duck boat going through crud and shallows all the time it’s going to need it more often…whereas a boat that never goes shallow won’t likely need it as often.
I changed my oil and lower unit lube tonight in my 20HP Tohatsu. My motor is just like this one. I used Lucas 10w-40 extreme duty outboard oil because the owner’s manual shows it is good up to 96°+, and only shows 10w-30 good to 88°. I didn’t want to have to worry about using the boat when it is very hot outside, but I also don’t want the engine to have to work harder to pump thicker oil. I figure most of the time the outside temp will be lower, but when it is very hot out, that’s when I want to use the boat the most. Any thoughts on this?
Also used 80w-90 weight Lucas gear oil. I noticed you used a straight 90 weight. The manual says 80 or 90, either one, so I guess I’m good with what I used? Oddly I noticed my top plug had no gasket when I removed it, but the bottom one did. I just ordered some to replace it.
I actually run my fishing boats in the colder months when river fishing here in Michigan...and definitely never in the extreme heat. I'm sure 99% of the time it'll be non-extreme conditions for most people to where it won't cause any trouble even over the long term.
I've just always run oils and gear lubes from the outboard manufacturers versus Lucas, Amsoil, or other options, and the 90 weight is what the marina down the road recommends for most outboards. I'd say you're just fine if you're in the specs of what the manual called for. Check in the threads of the lower unit for that gasket. If the motor was new there's no way they left the seal out from the factory! A lot of times the gasket will get stuck in there and is hard to see because it's dark. Doesn't hurt to put a new one on, but check in there first.
@@tomspontoons I checked twice to see if I missed it. It’s definitely not there. The lower plug has a white gasket on it. The upper plug had nothing. Do the motors come prefilled with fluids or would they have been added by the dealer? I bought it new, and the dealer had ordered it and installed it on the boat I was buying at the same time. He had set it up and performed the first break in run prior to me taking possession so I wonder if it’s possible it was lost during the initial set up.
Oh, one other thing. I called a marine shop to ask about 10w-40 vs 10w-30 and mentioned the 88° and 96° temps shown in the manual and the guy told me that is in reference to the internal engine temperature as opposed to the ambient temperature outside. Does this sound right? I would think internal engine temps would be a lot hotter than that.
@@duanebledsoe7566 They come with lower unit lube ready to go in the box. That's definitely a first for me to know of if Tohatsu forgot to install the gasket. I guess the dealer could have run it, checked the gear lube to make sure no water was entering, and forgot to reinstall the gasket. I see that being more likely than the factory missing that step in initial manufacturing. Either way, hopefully there was no water in and now you're taking care of it to make sure it lasts!
@@tomspontoons when I drained it I did see a white like color in the fluid. It was what I’d call semi milky. The fluid from yours in the video appears a bit darker. Even so, it did seem to be pretty viscous as I poured it from the catch pan into a scrap container with a funnel. I hope everything is still OK. So far the engine has seemed to run fine. I bought in the fall of 2021, and it got a total of 8 trips out before the season was over, and then all last year we used it without yet changing the lower unit fluid, I’d say maybe 12 to 15 times. I did change the oil though. I guess time will tell. Now that I know the gasket is not there I will wait before using it until the ones I ordered arrive and put one on the top plug. The bottom one was still good so I will leave it for now. Maybe mid season I will change the fluid again and check it all out.
@@duanebledsoe7566 I’d say the mid season check is a good idea. After the gasket is installed where it’s missing you should be worry free for a long while!!
why do you pick 10w30 not 10w40? I though 10w40 is better in terms of a wider temperature range.
To be completely honest, I just walked into the Tohatsu dealer down the street and told them what I was working on. I think our climate here is pretty good with either oil weight. I’ll ask next time I’m there to see what they recommend in different scenarios and why.
Thanks
Happy to help, thanks for watching!
I thought it only held 33 oz's?
1.07 quarts…should be right around 33 fluid oz if my math is right.
@@tomspontoons Sorry, i thought i heard you say 27 ounces in the video.
Damn that all should have been changed 20 hours ago
I don't think the motor has more than 20 hours on it!! 🙂