When I removed my CV Axle, the seal was no longer usable and it came out in two pieces. I went to the Ford dealership and found the seal that you need to buy separately. In addition, I had to replace the vacuum actuator assembly that is on the wheel side. The part numbers from Ford are: CV Axle Seal (SEAL - DUST): ALZ3Z-4B416-A Actuator Assembly: 7L1Z-3C247-A, Replaces 5L1Z-3C247-A FYI, you also need to use Moly Grease to place on the outside spline and bearings. Yes, actual Moly grease. I know you want to use the "Red n Tacky" that you already have, but it wont work right. What should have been a 2 1/2 hour job (At least for me), turned into a 6 hour job. This is because: 1.) The seal broke off in two pieces, the second piece was press fit in and there is no good leverage to pry it out. (Extra 1:00) 2.) Almost every bolt that I tried to remove was rusted in place. Have some PB Blaster on hand, it definitely helps. (Extra 2:00) 3.) Staring at the stuck pieces and wondering what to do. (Extra :30)
I must say I have watched a lot of do it yourself car videos, this is the most clear and has the details needed, without all the other noise. We just finished this, and ours went exactly as the video. Great job, keep it up. Thank you for saving us a ton of money and time!
+@WandaWenzlawski Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This is for this is for the most part a great instructional video with the exception of when reinstalling the axel he gives false directions, because the seal is a 2 part seal and the information that he gives by reusing the seal is false directions, you need a seal puller to remove the other part of the 2 part seal and replace it with new one...if you don't replace the 2 part seal, I guarantee you it's gonna leak!
wait for my parts 2013 going to be fun lol not with the winter rust been spraying everything down thx for the comments now I know what to watch out for ..
I want to thank you for the helpful videos, I do appreciate them, but i have a question when reinstall the axel and getting it fully seat does t hat seal go all the way in or will about 2/16 still be showing because i cant tell is my completely seating . thank you again
Okay, great video, however, the front left CV axle inner seal stays within the differential, IT DOES NOT COME OFF with the old axle assembly. I did this same repair and couldn't figure out why the new assembly wouldn't seat correctly all the way into the diff. I finally realized that the seal shown in this video, and mine, broke into two pieces while removing. I went to O'REILLY auto parts and obtained a new seal...the correct one is a one piece unit and it is pressed into the diff...it should not split into 2 pieces and one half (as shown in the video) come off with the axle assembly. I removed the broken seal half from the diff and installed the new one (one piece correct seal), then installed the cv axle. It set correctly and all is sorted.
I used this video to do my CV axle and just for your information that seal you showed was just the internal half of the seal, the outer half is still in the differential and you have to pry it out to replace the entire seal. You can't just buy the piece you showed. The new one comes all together and you have to tap that into the differential first then slide the shaft back in place.
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When I removed my CV Axle, the seal was no longer usable and it came out in two pieces. I went to the Ford dealership and found the seal that you need to buy separately. In addition, I had to replace the vacuum actuator assembly that is on the wheel side. The part numbers from Ford are:
CV Axle Seal (SEAL - DUST): ALZ3Z-4B416-A
Actuator Assembly: 7L1Z-3C247-A, Replaces 5L1Z-3C247-A
FYI, you also need to use Moly Grease to place on the outside spline and bearings. Yes, actual Moly grease. I know you want to use the "Red n Tacky" that you already have, but it wont work right.
What should have been a 2 1/2 hour job (At least for me), turned into a 6 hour job. This is because:
1.) The seal broke off in two pieces, the second piece was press fit in and there is no good leverage to pry it out. (Extra 1:00)
2.) Almost every bolt that I tried to remove was rusted in place. Have some PB Blaster on hand, it definitely helps. (Extra 2:00)
3.) Staring at the stuck pieces and wondering what to do. (Extra :30)
I must say I have watched a lot of do it yourself car videos, this is the most clear and has the details needed, without all the other noise. We just finished this, and ours went exactly as the video. Great job, keep it up. Thank you for saving us a ton of money and time!
+@WandaWenzlawski Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This is for this is for the most part a great instructional video with the exception of when reinstalling the axel he gives false directions, because the seal is a 2 part seal and the information that he gives by reusing the seal is false directions, you need a seal puller to remove the other part of the 2 part seal and replace it with new one...if you don't replace the 2 part seal, I guarantee you it's gonna leak!
Thats was awesome mechanic, learning good
wait for my parts 2013 going to be fun lol not with the winter rust been spraying everything down thx for the comments now I know what to watch out for ..
I want to thank you for the helpful videos, I do appreciate them, but i have a question when reinstall the axel and getting it fully seat does t hat seal go all the way in or will about 2/16 still be showing because i cant tell is my completely seating . thank you again
They need to mention for all the diy’s out there, that a lot of the time the axle seal will get stuck inside the crankcase and it’s hard to get out.
Okay, great video, however, the front left CV axle inner seal stays within the differential, IT DOES NOT COME OFF with the old axle assembly. I did this same repair and couldn't figure out why the new assembly wouldn't seat correctly all the way into the diff. I finally realized that the seal shown in this video, and mine, broke into two pieces while removing.
I went to O'REILLY auto parts and obtained a new seal...the correct one is a one piece unit and it is pressed into the diff...it should not split into 2 pieces and one half (as shown in the video) come off with the axle assembly.
I removed the broken seal half from the diff and installed the new one (one piece correct seal), then installed the cv axle. It set correctly and all is sorted.
For replacing a drivers side cv axle on FX4 with 2" lift, do I need an extended travel cv axle or with stock replacement work?
I used this video to do my CV axle and just for your information that seal you showed was just the internal half of the seal, the outer half is still in the differential and you have to pry it out to replace the entire seal. You can't just buy the piece you showed. The new one comes all together and you have to tap that into the differential first then slide the shaft back in place.
On the divers side is the seal still visible if it’s in correctly?
Is there a seal on the differential as well? Are they the same?
Very good explanation thanks
+Gerardo Leon Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you! If I'm broke, can I take my axle out and drive it until I get enough money to buy an axle on the front of a 4x4?
do you have a part number for the seal
I did the passenger side on my '13 but there was no seal on the axle. It's it possible it stayed on the pumpkin? It did have an o ring though.
Nice job...easier than an '88 Olds I did in the past.
Wondering why he didn’t reconnect the tie rod when he put it together
So nothing as far as lubrication put on the splines going into the transfer case, right?
No, no lubrication goes on those since they will be bathed in transmission fluid. You dont want to contaminate that fluid.
I'm doing this right now. My axle does not want to come out. Guess I just got to keep prying it.
What about the circlip?
I’d like to see his face when he realized that his ABS system is not working and he has to disassembly everything.
Some of the torque specs are different than what I'm familiar with
Why not replace the vacuum hose? Did you see all the dirt that fell out... Dang
Can I bring you my truck?
That’s a lot of rust
If he were a real mechanic, he would know that using that 22 mm socket instead of a 21 mm is the real reason that is Lugnuts are misshapen.