Throwing money/new parts at a problem isn't the proper way to fix it... hope Tony has a VOM with capacitor tester function... Before messing with wires or distributor gear, he should first check and make sure the vacuum or mechanical advances aren't jammed in an advanced position! Replace 2 bbl. carb. with 4 bbl. carb. so power doesn't stop by 3500 RPMs...
I don't know about anyone else... But I have been subscribed to tony for years... Years... Waiting for him to come into this genre of videos.... There are so many other channels, who make exclusively this type of content, but this is truly like being in the garage with people I grew up with, in upstate NY.
I know guys who can put together the best running engines but can't troubleshoot problems like this to save their life. These lessons are pure gold, Uncle Tony!
Man, I really want a classic car. I'm a GM guy. But I don't care what it is. I just want something built between the 60's and 80's. I don't care what size engine, how many doors, or anything like that. As long as it has the potential to run and drive. Rust, don't care. A decent interior would be nice, but not necessary. I've really gotta get some money saved up. What sucks is every time I see a good deal, I'm broke. And when I rarely have money, there's nothing around. Until right after the money is gone. Story of my life
Get something prior to 67 easier for registration and insurance purposes. Most states u don’t have to emission anything prior to 67 in AZ anyways (Or u put classic car insurance and bypass anyways) Either way your in for a surprise, fun to work on but u fix something and another thing breaks soon after.
I'm in the same boat as you, love classic cars but never seem to have the money for them. My current plan is paying down my debts and investing in the stock market to grow my money. I mostly invest in VOO and QQQ. Hopefully after a few years I should have enough money to get back into this hobby.
I promise you DON’T want rust if you can help it. I’d rather buy a rust free car with a blown engine and swap it out with a good used runner than a rusty car that runs and drives fine (for now). That said if you want to get an older GM car cheap to just have fun with the 77-mid 80’s carbureted downsized GM full-size models like the Caprice, Impala, Delta 88, Bonneville, Catalina, Electra or Lesabre, one of the Cadillac models. The pre-81 models are my favorite, they lowered the hood line on the refreshed models after that. Anyhow $3-5k will get you a REAL nice driver of that vintage now. I have a video of my old 84’ Delta 88 I used to bomb around in on my channel from well over a decade ago….back then (2009,2010) you could pick those cars up for under $2k in good shape….mind was a 90k mile 1 owner grampy car with a few door debts but otherwise perfect body and paint, even had an original “Reagan / Bush 84” sticker on the bumper…cold A/C, power everything….they are really good cars. I wound up doing away with the CCC carb and distributor on mine (it was an early super basic form of computer control) even though it was still working OK, it was only around $100 at the junkyard to get a vacuum advance Olds HEI distributor and a regular Q-jet in good shape to put on mine and I was able to put a little more timing in it and wake it up some, plus I think the vacuum advance gave better cruising speed performance than the CCC system did.
I just want to say that I really appreciate your channel. Even though I’m a relatively young non mopar guy. (63 Ford Falcon, ‘01 Lincoln Town Car and ‘21 Chevrolet Camaro) this is my favorite automotive channel. I feel like this is a lost art in my generation and I just wish I could hang around your shop and learn. THANK YOU!
Near the end I saw that box van with a chrysler motor and a quadrajet. This whole vid is a hail mary to carbs and how fun and easy they are. There is a feller/family on the east coast with a 9 sec 1967 Olds with a quadrajet. It's been awhile I can't wait to get back into messing with a quadra-bog
It’s great watching Uncle Tony in action diagnosing the problem. I like his theory about rubber breaking off from inside the hose. I look forward to seeing the car in action.
I always use a piece of masking tape or any tape, press it into the clip before you remove it, works every time, I’ve lost too many, it’s nerve racking.
Saw a guy with a 340 Dart that had the same problem... engine wouldn't run. He bought it cheap because of that. Towed it home, found the distributor problem, positioned it right, adjusted the timing, and voila! Ran like a top!
Tappa tappa never taught me the top of those carbs come off and you can view the floats! That remote start bit for Mopars is brilliant, I had no idea! Excellent show!!!
One trick I've found for cleaning out a needle and seat is to clamp the fuel line on the inlet side of the fuel pump closed and start the car. Start the car and let it run until the fuel level in the carburetor drops significantly, almost dry. Shut off the engine and remove the clamp on the fuel line. Crank the engine over and the rush of fuel to the needle and seat will remove whatever debris is causing the needle to stick open. It doesn't work EVERY time, but it's a quick fix when it does.
Then you end up with possible jet plugging. It's better to take apart and clean and hopefully find the culprit. If not, blow the bowl out with air and clean the needle and seat and blow it out also. Or if you have a good st of lungs... like Tony seems to have, use your God given compressed air. You don't want any debris plugging your jets.
UT...I totally get your RUclips vs Mechanic thinking modes. And this was a great instructional video. Brought back memories from the late 70's when I had 3 or 4 Mopar products with 383's and 440's. Good times.
This is the first time I have seen Uncle Tony and I am very impressed. He gets straight to the point and explains things very well. Wish there was some tighter shots of the parts in the engine he is fiddling with but it is all understandable. Plus he gives you multiple ways to fix something. Wish he lived in my neighborhood I would be on the phone to him right now!
Great advice switching the leads around one spot. Not too many would think of that before pulling the distributor and moving it a tooth. I've done it before, so as you were leading up to it, was hoping you'd do it that way.
The problem comes when someone down the road replaces the wires and goes by the commonly available diagrams showing firing order on the cap. If they do that, the timing is off again…..
To move the distributor a tooth over on a chrysler SB, you have to pull the distributor and then pull the oil pump drive gear. A huge pain to do with common hand tools.
Great video, lots of memories from an old Chrysler mechanic. We used to use the accelerator pump to pump the carb bowel as empty as possible and hopefully the inrush of fuel would 'flush' out the needle and seat. It worked - sometimes! Loved these carbs. Thanks Tony
Man, as a 21 yo carb car lover, i wish someone in my family was as well versed as you, yes, injection cars are good and almost hassle free, but we live in a country were the latest model is 2008, by now those cars are presenting issues nobody is qualified or has the technical know how to fix, but a carbed car? Diy!. Is just so reliable, way more than figuring if i have an injector shooting straight or if 1 wire out of a thousand from the wire assembly is shorting out
Crazy to me to think that the vast majority of folks out here nowadays can diagnose, work their way through, and fix an injected engine with over a dozen sensors and a rat’s nest of harness, but cannot comprehend these dinosaur mechanical induction arrangements like uncle Tony and us old school geezers 😆 Nice video, Tony- well made and insightful for the younger folks. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Yes , Love those carb's ,, our Chrysler HEMI 6's here in Australia use them and as you say Uncle Tony , they are so easy to work on . Thanks for sharing this .
This reminds me of a old lady, Lupe, who came in one day with her 68 dart that at least 2 other _"shops"_ had screwed up almost beyond belief! She was so scared to trust another mechanic and so sweet my wife and I just loved her. I fixed it, didn't charge her full boat but didn't tell her that either, she brought us her homemade tamales twice a month for over a year until I made her stop, it was enough!😂
Now this is what I love to see. Real, actual troubleshooting that the average home mechanic can use to help get that old classic car up and running. So much of youtube is full of garbage these days and it is refreshing to see this sort of actual mechanical knowledge in action. Well done!! As a side note, I learned to drive on our 62 plymouth fury way back in 69. Fun times.
Uncle Tony! I thought you were going to catch your hand on fire. You’d touch the gas then short the starter and sparks would fly. I was waiting for the “Whoooof”! It was very informative. You’re great.
You are the shop instructor I wish I had have had in Autoshop. You are awesome at describing how things work. I also wish I had your knowledge when I had my Dodge Vans I could never make run right. I love Mopar. Mopar has never been my friend. Lmao
Hey Tony (and noobs)... I saw you drop that little hairpin clip, lol. My "secret weapon" for that little annoyance is half a dozen surgical clamps (roach clip, locking scissor type for our generation, lol)... every hairpin gets pulled by one, and it stays clamped on til the linkage is holding onto it again. Drop it, toss it, juggle it, it doesn't let go til you unclip it, lol. Total cost is about one snap-on deep socket, so cheap. As to the overfilling float bowl, yeah, might have been tiny schmutz, or could have just been "not quite right" assembly between the float arm and the "never seen it like that before" needle contact point (or misalignment caused by bouncing over half the planet to get under that hood, lol). Love the channel Tony, Kathy, and beagles!
It is good that you explain your troubleshooting prowess in a relaxed way. It's all in the details the younger people need. I would ask the owner to get you a magnetic parts bowl, and some hemostats for those clips, my old hand would have dropped all of them! Great work, can't wait for the test drive!
When I was in Alice Springs, these Aboriginal felas had a 4 cylinder Datsun Ute, small truck, running on a 6 cylinder rotor cap 😂 didn't run perfect but you could drive it 😂 I drove it back to the workshop, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
The thing with old cars, often every system had been put off repairs until the new owner finds he has complete need of replacement of nearly every system the moter being also needing replacement.
@@briansignorelli7090 Only one back in 1990 -1991 or so...Car died 1 block from my home,I drove many old 60's and 70's Chrysler products 100,000 miles plus the ,mileage that was on them all over 120,000..except one was verified 80,000 mile car all others were 120,000 -150,000 etc..they all looked and ran perfect,very picky buyer/No rattles,no squeaks and not abused.I looked at 10 to buy one on average.. Some I rebuilt the engines after hard driving when younger/some just kept going and going ..Daily drivers from 1980's to 2005,now I still drive my old cars about 1,000 miles per month..Only one ballast resistor went bad on me,now I know my next problem lol.
@@briansignorelli7090 about the same here. I have had 4 Chrysler gas vehicles for 20 to 30 years and probably have logged 300k miles between them all over that time and not replaced one ballast resistor. I have had one coil go though.
Hey UT, if I ever buy another old american car it's be a Chrysler product. I have a library of info thanks to you and Uncle Kathy to know the old Mopars bumper to bumper. Great work, thanks!
UT you are a diamond! this and your power timing vid have just taught me so much, ive ditched the timing light now, was relying on it too much and having trouble with kick back and starting. All sorted now, and sounding awesome :) Thank you so much for all of your knowledge, they say when a man dies an encyclopedia dies with- not Uncle Tony. long live UT and YT
Great video. I just finally fixed my truck. The shear pin on the distributor gear shaft broke. It would start but act like a fuel pump with low 20 psi pressure.
Totally understand the "Mechanic mode vs RUclips mode" When i too make update video's on my Chrysler i have to TRY to not get into the Mechanic mode when recording, awesome trouble shooting for any carburetors Tony! 👍
Uncle Tony , thank you for a video that was interesting enough to keep my interest but low key enough to help send me off to sleep after a long and crappy day at work. Better than melatonin plus alot more educational 😅
Another great video. I have used your advice when starting up old engines by soaking the intake with fuel to season it. It made it alot easier. Cheers mate.
I had the same thing happen on my mopar 360 2 barrel. Rubber from the inside of the fuel line disintegrated and I found a small piece of rubber in the needle and seat assembly. Cleaned it up and it was good as new.
I have a very very troublesome crank no start condition with a vehicle right now so seeing this upload from Uncle Tony is like a sign from the gods! (No plural?)
Ok Tony here's some You Tube criticism first thing where is the other fender cover? Second you don't need a remote jumper for a GM that's another use for the tire iron just ask someone with a Chevy with headers (the solenoid gets hot and won't crank so you pop the trunk get your tire iron and carefully jump it with that without shorting out on the headers) third thing I hope whatever debris was in the needle and seat doesn't make it into a fuel passage and cause other problems. Just busting balls here I know you are very knowledgeable. Great videos
Nice job Tony. The BBD is such a gem of a little carby, I love them. Still wary of the Chineseum ones, but would probably buy some for parts to use, rebuilding genuine Carters. Gotta get parts from somewhere!
Thanks Tony, great example of what over advancing sounds like ..after giving my distributor a power nudge , I now know what sound to look out for if over "nudged" !
Just put one of those bbd on my 85 d150 318, when I first put it on, I had to keep dumping gas down the carb to get it to run, took the needle and seat off and the needle was stuck shut, dislodged it and it runs great now
Many have done this: drop a new distributor in with the cap on and miss that they cought the wrong gear tooth. Vacuum port points the same way, but the rotor indexed itself to the wrong spot as gears always turn it a bit while dropping in.
My first car was a '62 fairlane sports coupe ,I really liked that car .It had blown (as in broken) 221 ,3 on the tree .I picked up a 351W and a top loader 4 spd . It had a 2 bbl on it and I also thought since I had the top of the carb. off I would run the engine .I gave it a little throttle and the little check ball shot up and went right down the intake , when I pulled the head off the piston had check ball size divots on it . Since then I remove carbs. to work on them .
Looking good Tony...My hopes are that the timing chain isn't stretched or jumped a tooth...I'll be tuned in for the next, thanks for the content, and the real time diag...it's good to see you're human, can't tell you how many times I've dropped those clips, and they aren't always easy to find.
@@MrZdvy Timing chains most commonly will not jump a tooth, but I did have a 400 that had the nylon tooth gears, half the gear the teeth were worn off on the rear side, the other half was worn on the front side, the chain did have slop, and the only thing i can think is that it must have had enough slop to jump to damage in that way...the vehicle was running before I removed the timing chain set, yet gained power after replacing the set...double roller of coarse.
My first distributor replacement went a little like this, with the lower drive shaft being a tooth or so off. I knew it would rotate as it was installed, I just didn't know how much I would need rotate the other way to compensate for it. Probably wouldn't have been a huge deal, but the A-series engine in the Mini has the distributor leads jammed against the grille (rad was to the side, rather than in front of the engine) and the extra twist was making things a little on the tight side. This all begs the question: why was his timing so far off? It wounds like the owner is reasonably competent with the basics...maybe the front pulley/dampener has slipped and the mark is incorrect now? PS: One handy trick about old motorcycle carbs: if I suspect a little grit is holding a needle off its seat, I just drain my carbs onto the ground so they're completely empty and the floats are hanging as low as they go...then turn the fuel back on and let the high initial flow as the bowls fill wash it out. Oh, and tap them with a screwdriver handle. Seems to work most of the time.
Watching you fishing that tiny clip brought me back gnarly memories of trying to find it after it fell between the frame rails, starter and headers haha! Sounds lovely, can't wait for the road test!
Thats why they call them Jesus clips, when one pops into orbit, you just can't help yourself from calling out his name ..... BTW I'm also a mopar lover still have the car I bought in 1983 I was 23 ,1972 charger rallye 440 mag , auto trans w/ air grabber , good job Tony, you kept your 😎
Troubleshooting and proper diagnosis of an issue is what separates a mechanic from a Sunday wrench turner / parts swapper. I started with small engines and was lucky enough to have a few really great old timers around as teachers when I started getting into cars, trucks and eventually heavy trucks. The upside is I now have a ton of mostly obsolete (except to me) skills and knowledge ton of mechanics my age don’t. The downside is almost my entire field of mechanical knowledge is confined to models 1995 and older….I can diagnose issues with the GM TBI systems with the best of them and do even better getting back into carbureted engines, points and condenser ignitions (I prefer them to HEI and other electronic “upgrade” systems in cars that came with them too)….but I don’t mind that, I’d rather keep working on 50 year old systems I understand then go back to school to learn how to let a computer do all the work.
I'll tell you one way that the plug wires can be off one hole on the distributor cap: forgetting which bank of the engine is 1-4 and which is 5-8. Made that very mistake yesterday on a Ford 289.
I have a 440 I can get it to run and drive but it won’t drive very far and then it won’t start again for a couple days what do I do it’s got a lot of new parts
You just reminded me about those charcoal floats on some GM cars that used to sink because of unleaded gas , Remember ? Intermittent idle and all . People traded in cars because of that and plugged cats in the 70's and early 80's .
I miss my Uncle Dick .he passed away about 23 years ago .He drove alot of Chrysler's. We'd get in the car and he start it up and it would stall and he would be like " You Street Walking Hussie you " You Better run this time .Car stall again he'd call it a Street Walking Hussie again ..Used to make me laugh so hard ..I Miss thee ole Man 😊
As cool as the hotrodding stuff is; these basic troubleshooting videos are fantastic and worth their weight in gold.
Brother I know this stuff has to hurt your back.
Throwing money/new parts at a problem isn't the proper way to fix it... hope Tony has a VOM with capacitor tester function...
Before messing with wires or distributor gear, he should first check and make sure the vacuum or mechanical advances aren't jammed in an advanced position!
Replace 2 bbl. carb. with 4 bbl. carb. so power doesn't stop by 3500 RPMs...
😊😊😊
Yes 👍
I don't know about anyone else...
But I have been subscribed to tony for years...
Years...
Waiting for him to come into this genre of videos....
There are so many other channels, who make exclusively this type of content, but this is truly like being in the garage with people I grew up with, in upstate NY.
I know guys who can put together the best running engines but can't troubleshoot problems like this to save their life. These lessons are pure gold, Uncle Tony!
Can you please do more of these, I have learned so much from you.
Thank you for everything
Never gave a thought to indexing the plug wires when you run out of adjustment on the distributor!! Cool Uncle Tony!!
Man, I really want a classic car. I'm a GM guy. But I don't care what it is. I just want something built between the 60's and 80's. I don't care what size engine, how many doors, or anything like that. As long as it has the potential to run and drive. Rust, don't care. A decent interior would be nice, but not necessary. I've really gotta get some money saved up. What sucks is every time I see a good deal, I'm broke. And when I rarely have money, there's nothing around. Until right after the money is gone. Story of my life
Get something prior to 67 easier for registration and insurance purposes.
Most states u don’t have to emission anything prior to 67 in AZ anyways (Or u put classic car insurance and bypass anyways)
Either way your in for a surprise, fun to work on but u fix something and another thing breaks soon after.
There old 4 door cars out there all the time. Scap one of them up!
You have to be my brother from another mother 😂 i feel same way.
I'm in the same boat as you, love classic cars but never seem to have the money for them. My current plan is paying down my debts and investing in the stock market to grow my money. I mostly invest in VOO and QQQ. Hopefully after a few years I should have enough money to get back into this hobby.
I promise you DON’T want rust if you can help it. I’d rather buy a rust free car with a blown engine and swap it out with a good used runner than a rusty car that runs and drives fine (for now). That said if you want to get an older GM car cheap to just have fun with the 77-mid 80’s carbureted downsized GM full-size models like the Caprice, Impala, Delta 88, Bonneville, Catalina, Electra or Lesabre, one of the Cadillac models. The pre-81 models are my favorite, they lowered the hood line on the refreshed models after that. Anyhow $3-5k will get you a REAL nice driver of that vintage now. I have a video of my old 84’ Delta 88 I used to bomb around in on my channel from well over a decade ago….back then (2009,2010) you could pick those cars up for under $2k in good shape….mind was a 90k mile 1 owner grampy car with a few door debts but otherwise perfect body and paint, even had an original “Reagan / Bush 84” sticker on the bumper…cold A/C, power everything….they are really good cars. I wound up doing away with the CCC carb and distributor on mine (it was an early super basic form of computer control) even though it was still working OK, it was only around $100 at the junkyard to get a vacuum advance Olds HEI distributor and a regular Q-jet in good shape to put on mine and I was able to put a little more timing in it and wake it up some, plus I think the vacuum advance gave better cruising speed performance than the CCC system did.
I'm so glad I found and purchased a 1973 NOS Carter BBD for my '72 Satellite without having to resort to China junk!
No doubt ,even for small equipment I've resorted to finding used OEM carbs and getting a kit if needed as the china stuff is hit or miss.
Be sure to rebuilt it with new ethanol compatible parts though, don't slap it on there as is or it'll probably leak and cause a fire.
I just want to say that I really appreciate your channel. Even though I’m a relatively young non mopar guy. (63 Ford Falcon, ‘01 Lincoln Town Car and ‘21 Chevrolet Camaro) this is my favorite automotive channel. I feel like this is a lost art in my generation and I just wish I could hang around your shop and learn. THANK YOU!
Near the end I saw that box van with a chrysler motor and a quadrajet.
This whole vid is a hail mary to carbs and how fun and easy they are.
There is a feller/family on the east coast with a 9 sec 1967 Olds with a quadrajet. It's been awhile I can't wait to get back into messing with a quadra-bog
It’s great watching Uncle Tony in action diagnosing the problem. I like his theory about rubber breaking off from inside the hose. I look forward to seeing the car in action.
Glad you didn't edit losing the c clip. Shows you are human like the rest of us! Good tutorial for the youngans.
I always use a piece of masking tape or any tape, press it into the clip before you remove it, works every time, I’ve lost too many, it’s nerve racking.
Watching someone that can make an engine purr is mechanical paradise. a well trained growl is also good to hear....
Saw a guy with a 340 Dart that had the same problem... engine wouldn't run. He bought it cheap because of that. Towed it home, found the distributor problem, positioned it right, adjusted the timing, and voila! Ran like a top!
Tappa tappa never taught me the top of those carbs come off and you can view the floats!
That remote start bit for Mopars is brilliant, I had no idea!
Excellent show!!!
I would have killed for a tappa tappa tappa!
Pleasure watching you figure it out Tony
One trick I've found for cleaning out a needle and seat is to clamp the fuel line on the inlet side of the fuel pump closed and start the car. Start the car and let it run until the fuel level in the carburetor drops significantly, almost dry. Shut off the engine and remove the clamp on the fuel line. Crank the engine over and the rush of fuel to the needle and seat will remove whatever debris is causing the needle to stick open. It doesn't work EVERY time, but it's a quick fix when it does.
Excellent idea!
Good thinking. Could get you going when you’re in a pinch and don’t have a lot of tools or time.
Then you end up with possible jet plugging. It's better to take apart and clean and hopefully find the culprit. If not, blow the bowl out with air and clean the needle and seat and blow it out also. Or if you have a good st of lungs... like Tony seems to have, use your God given compressed air. You don't want any debris plugging your jets.
Great job Tony.. you're a real gem...love these videos!
This is why I like my 68 ford truck, Distributor is in the front, great video per usual, UTG
never forgets about the entry level mechanics
UT...I totally get your RUclips vs Mechanic thinking modes. And this was a great instructional video. Brought back memories from the late 70's when I had 3 or 4 Mopar products with 383's and 440's. Good times.
This is the first time I have seen Uncle Tony and I am very impressed. He gets straight to the point and explains things very well. Wish there was some tighter shots of the parts in the engine he is fiddling with but it is all understandable. Plus he gives you multiple ways to fix something. Wish he lived in my neighborhood I would be on the phone to him right now!
Great advice switching the leads around one spot. Not too many would think of that before pulling the distributor and moving it a tooth. I've done it before, so as you were leading up to it, was hoping you'd do it that way.
The problem comes when someone down the road replaces the wires and goes by the commonly available diagrams showing firing order on the cap. If they do that, the timing is off again…..
To move the distributor a tooth over on a chrysler SB, you have to pull the distributor and then pull the oil pump drive gear. A huge pain to do with common hand tools.
Great video, lots of memories from an old Chrysler mechanic. We used to use the accelerator pump to pump the carb bowel as empty as possible and hopefully the inrush of fuel would 'flush' out the needle and seat. It worked - sometimes! Loved these carbs. Thanks Tony
Watching Tony work on cars is like watching Earl Strickland play pool
Or Reyes!
Man, as a 21 yo carb car lover, i wish someone in my family was as well versed as you, yes, injection cars are good and almost hassle free, but we live in a country were the latest model is 2008, by now those cars are presenting issues nobody is qualified or has the technical know how to fix, but a carbed car? Diy!. Is just so reliable, way more than figuring if i have an injector shooting straight or if 1 wire out of a thousand from the wire assembly is shorting out
Crazy to me to think that the vast majority of folks out here nowadays can diagnose, work their way through, and fix an injected engine with over a dozen sensors and a rat’s nest of harness, but cannot comprehend these dinosaur mechanical induction arrangements like uncle Tony and us old school geezers 😆
Nice video, Tony- well made and insightful for the younger folks. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Thrilling dropped clip action, very suspenseful. The BBD design is quite interesting, I like it.
This video gave me flashbacks..
I believe I've had every type of starring issue...From tears to Glory
@∅
Yes , Love those carb's ,, our Chrysler HEMI 6's here in Australia use them and as you say Uncle Tony , they are so easy to work on .
Thanks for sharing this .
This reminds me of a old lady, Lupe, who came in one day with her 68 dart that at least 2 other _"shops"_ had screwed up almost beyond belief! She was so scared to trust another mechanic and so sweet my wife and I just loved her. I fixed it, didn't charge her full boat but didn't tell her that either, she brought us her homemade tamales twice a month for over a year until I made her stop, it was enough!😂
Now this is the exact contend I tune in to watch
Now this is what I love to see. Real, actual troubleshooting that the average home mechanic can use to help get that old classic car up and running. So much of youtube is full of garbage these days and it is refreshing to see this sort of actual mechanical knowledge in action. Well done!! As a side note, I learned to drive on our 62 plymouth fury way back in 69. Fun times.
Sparks and open fuel don't mix. OMG!!! So comical I love it.
Just one thing, THANK YOU for this kind of videos, you helped me a lot, thank you for sharing your wisdom with newbies like me
Uncle Tony! I thought you were going to catch your hand on fire. You’d touch the gas then short the starter and sparks would fly. I was waiting for the “Whoooof”! It was very informative. You’re great.
You are the shop instructor I wish I had have had in Autoshop. You are awesome at describing how things work.
I also wish I had your knowledge when I had my Dodge Vans I could never make run right. I love Mopar. Mopar has never been my friend. Lmao
Hey Tony (and noobs)... I saw you drop that little hairpin clip, lol. My "secret weapon" for that little annoyance is half a dozen surgical clamps (roach clip, locking scissor type for our generation, lol)... every hairpin gets pulled by one, and it stays clamped on til the linkage is holding onto it again. Drop it, toss it, juggle it, it doesn't let go til you unclip it, lol. Total cost is about one snap-on deep socket, so cheap.
As to the overfilling float bowl, yeah, might have been tiny schmutz, or could have just been "not quite right" assembly between the float arm and the "never seen it like that before" needle contact point (or misalignment caused by bouncing over half the planet to get under that hood, lol).
Love the channel Tony, Kathy, and beagles!
This dude is at best an average mechanic. Do not take his word as gold!
It is good that you explain your troubleshooting prowess in a relaxed way. It's all in the details the younger people need. I would ask the owner to get you a magnetic parts bowl, and some hemostats for those clips, my old hand would have dropped all of them! Great work, can't wait for the test drive!
When I was in Alice Springs, these Aboriginal felas had a 4 cylinder Datsun Ute, small truck, running on a 6 cylinder rotor cap 😂 didn't run perfect but you could drive it 😂 I drove it back to the workshop, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
The thing with old cars, often every system had been put off repairs until the new owner finds he has complete need of replacement of nearly every system the moter being also needing replacement.
Love those mopar rag-tops.
Tony thinking about writing ebook for carb and distributor car diagnostic and maintenance?
Good stuff. The ballast resistor is Mopar troubleshooting 101 and you worked your way up from there.
Then driving Mopars to 30 years and never ever have I had a ballast resistor go bad
@@briansignorelli7090 Only one back in 1990 -1991 or so...Car died 1 block from my home,I drove many old 60's and 70's Chrysler products 100,000 miles plus the ,mileage that was on them all over 120,000..except one was verified 80,000 mile car all others were 120,000 -150,000 etc..they all looked and ran perfect,very picky buyer/No rattles,no squeaks and not abused.I looked at 10 to buy one on average..
Some I rebuilt the engines after hard driving when younger/some just kept going and going ..Daily drivers from 1980's to 2005,now I still drive my old cars about 1,000 miles per month..Only one ballast resistor went bad on me,now I know my next problem lol.
@@briansignorelli7090 about the same here. I have had 4 Chrysler gas vehicles for 20 to 30 years and probably have logged 300k miles between them all over that time and not replaced one ballast resistor. I have had one coil go though.
I´ve learned more from this great video than all I´ve learned in my entire life as a DIY. Gracias Tío Tony for share.
Going fast is nice and all, but you have to start by getting things going in the first place! Good video, tony.
Killer vdo. Like hanging our w a uncle named Tony being gifted ancient knowledge
Hey UT, if I ever buy another old american car it's be a Chrysler product. I have a library of info thanks to you and Uncle Kathy to know the old Mopars bumper to bumper. Great work, thanks!
UT you are a diamond! this and your power timing vid have just taught me so much, ive ditched the timing light now, was relying on it too much and having trouble with kick back and starting. All sorted now, and sounding awesome :) Thank you so much for all of your knowledge, they say when a man dies an encyclopedia dies with- not Uncle Tony. long live UT and YT
I Really Like The Way You Show How To Things
Great video. I just finally fixed my truck. The shear pin on the distributor gear shaft broke. It would start but act like a fuel pump with low 20 psi pressure.
Another great mechanics video this one should help a lot of folks beginners espcially!
That starter sounds just like the one on my old 1967 Chrysler (which I miss greatly). Great video!
Thanks Uncle Tony, looking forward to the road test!
Totally understand the "Mechanic mode vs RUclips mode"
When i too make update video's on my Chrysler i have to TRY to not get into the Mechanic mode when recording, awesome trouble shooting for any carburetors Tony! 👍
Uncle Tony , thank you for a video that was interesting enough to keep my interest but low key enough to help send me off to sleep after a long and crappy day at work. Better than melatonin plus alot more educational 😅
"Man, I always drop at least one of those carburetor clips." Then I see you drop one. "I am vindicated!"
No college for me!im already at UTG.Class in session😊from South Africa.
Thank you for the great advice!! I was able to get my car started and running. I wish you could have you come to Denver and fine tune my 65 Impala.
Love this video. Very interesting and informative. Thanks for sharing.
Can I ask how you watched a 30 minute video in 1 minute? 😄
Another great video. I have used your advice when starting up old engines by soaking the intake with fuel to season it. It made it alot easier. Cheers mate.
I had the same thing happen on my mopar 360 2 barrel. Rubber from the inside of the fuel line disintegrated and I found a small piece of rubber in the needle and seat assembly. Cleaned it up and it was good as new.
I have a very very troublesome crank no start condition with a vehicle right now so seeing this upload from Uncle Tony is like a sign from the gods! (No plural?)
Good info , worked on many tractors that the top of carb comes off make so easy clean and check...
Dropping the clip 😂😂 everyone does it when working over a fender 😬 great video Tony
Excellent troubleshooting. Fun to watch others find this stuff.
The (simple but wise) tip of swapping the cables at the distributor cap to get more room for tuning may have saved my life.
Ok Tony here's some You Tube criticism first thing where is the other fender cover? Second you don't need a remote jumper for a GM that's another use for the tire iron just ask someone with a Chevy with headers (the solenoid gets hot and won't crank so you pop the trunk get your tire iron and carefully jump it with that without shorting out on the headers) third thing I hope whatever debris was in the needle and seat doesn't make it into a fuel passage and cause other problems. Just busting balls here I know you are very knowledgeable. Great videos
Nice job Tony. The BBD is such a gem of a little carby, I love them. Still wary of the Chineseum ones, but would probably buy some for parts to use, rebuilding genuine Carters. Gotta get parts from somewhere!
Really good tutorial, Tony!
That exhaust is asking to be uncorked. Sounds like high speed jet of exhaust coming out of that thing!.
Masterfully done. Great show.
These hands on trouble shooting are the best.
Thanks Tony, great example of what over advancing sounds like ..after giving my distributor a power nudge , I now know what sound to look out for if over "nudged" !
I missed the squirrels. As always excellent priceless knowledge Uncle Tony.
Just put one of those bbd on my 85 d150 318, when I first put it on, I had to keep dumping gas down the carb to get it to run, took the needle and seat off and the needle was stuck shut, dislodged it and it runs great now
Many have done this: drop a new distributor in with the cap on and miss that they cought the wrong gear tooth. Vacuum port points the same way, but the rotor indexed itself to the wrong spot as gears always turn it a bit while dropping in.
real time stuff , really good can't beat it
My first car was a '62 fairlane sports coupe ,I really liked that car .It had blown (as in broken) 221 ,3 on the tree .I picked up a 351W and a top loader 4 spd . It had a 2 bbl on it and I also thought since I had the top of the carb. off I would run the engine .I gave it a little throttle and the little check ball shot up and went right down the intake , when I pulled the head off the piston had check ball size divots on it . Since then I remove carbs. to work on them .
Thanks man see ya tomorrow.
Looking good Tony...My hopes are that the timing chain isn't stretched or jumped a tooth...I'll be tuned in for the next, thanks for the content, and the real time diag...it's good to see you're human, can't tell you how many times I've dropped those clips, and they aren't always easy to find.
That's what I was thinking. If it was running and all of a sudden turned to shit, then seeing the timing that far off, I'm thinking chain.
Timing chains don’t jump a tooth. If they do the gears are really badly worn and you won’t get it started like he did.
@@MrZdvy Timing chains most commonly will not jump a tooth, but I did have a 400 that had the nylon tooth gears, half the gear the teeth were worn off on the rear side, the other half was worn on the front side, the chain did have slop, and the only thing i can think is that it must have had enough slop to jump to damage in that way...the vehicle was running before I removed the timing chain set, yet gained power after replacing the set...double roller of coarse.
Great video, brother. Sweet car and awesome trouble shooting.
Ever seen the Wee Magnetic tray's and Magnet with extension.. especially with Carb work.. Keep on Wrenching Folks..
My first distributor replacement went a little like this, with the lower drive shaft being a tooth or so off. I knew it would rotate as it was installed, I just didn't know how much I would need rotate the other way to compensate for it. Probably wouldn't have been a huge deal, but the A-series engine in the Mini has the distributor leads jammed against the grille (rad was to the side, rather than in front of the engine) and the extra twist was making things a little on the tight side.
This all begs the question: why was his timing so far off? It wounds like the owner is reasonably competent with the basics...maybe the front pulley/dampener has slipped and the mark is incorrect now?
PS: One handy trick about old motorcycle carbs: if I suspect a little grit is holding a needle off its seat, I just drain my carbs onto the ground so they're completely empty and the floats are hanging as low as they go...then turn the fuel back on and let the high initial flow as the bowls fill wash it out. Oh, and tap them with a screwdriver handle. Seems to work most of the time.
Awsome as always, thanks for the information.
Uncle Tony with a bowl full of raw gasoline and got sparks flying off his screwdriver 12 inches away 😂. Gotta love him!
Thanks for the memories.
These troubleshooting vids are what it's about
Way to go Tony
Next time please also close ups how you remove and install the linkage.
Great content as always thanks.
Watching you fishing that tiny clip brought me back gnarly memories of trying to find it after it fell between the frame rails, starter and headers haha!
Sounds lovely, can't wait for the road test!
Good stuff, glad you did the partial disassembly
I love that 70s grille look on those Mopars . 🇺🇸✌
Oil and filter change, fuel?
A close up of how you adjust the timing would be helpful.
Thats why they call them Jesus clips, when one pops into orbit, you just can't help yourself from calling out his name ..... BTW I'm also a mopar lover still have the car I bought in 1983 I was 23 ,1972 charger rallye 440 mag , auto trans w/ air grabber , good job Tony, you kept your 😎
Troubleshooting and proper diagnosis of an issue is what separates a mechanic from a Sunday wrench turner / parts swapper. I started with small engines and was lucky enough to have a few really great old timers around as teachers when I started getting into cars, trucks and eventually heavy trucks. The upside is I now have a ton of mostly obsolete (except to me) skills and knowledge ton of mechanics my age don’t. The downside is almost my entire field of mechanical knowledge is confined to models 1995 and older….I can diagnose issues with the GM TBI systems with the best of them and do even better getting back into carbureted engines, points and condenser ignitions (I prefer them to HEI and other electronic “upgrade” systems in cars that came with them too)….but I don’t mind that, I’d rather keep working on 50 year old systems I understand then go back to school to learn how to let a computer do all the work.
I'll tell you one way that the plug wires can be off one hole on the distributor cap: forgetting which bank of the engine is 1-4 and which is 5-8. Made that very mistake yesterday on a Ford 289.
I prefer "RUclips mode" over "mechanic mode". I can learn more. Thanks
I have a 440 I can get it to run and drive but it won’t drive very far and then it won’t start again for a couple days what do I do it’s got a lot of new parts
You just reminded me about those charcoal floats on some GM cars that used to sink because of unleaded gas , Remember ? Intermittent idle and all . People traded in cars because of that and plugged cats in the 70's and early 80's .
Floats on my 1982 bmw motorcycle absorbed alcohol from gas and got heavy cause flooding. They were a foamed plastic of some kind
I miss my Uncle Dick .he passed away about 23 years ago .He drove alot of Chrysler's. We'd get in the car and he start it up and it would stall and he would be like " You Street Walking Hussie you " You Better run this time .Car stall again he'd call it a Street Walking Hussie again ..Used to make me laugh so hard ..I Miss thee ole Man 😊