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Classic Mopar No Crank, No Start - How To Diagnose Issues - Dead Dodge Garage
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- Опубликовано: 6 янв 2022
- Today on Dead Dodge Garage, it’s the big no crank no start classic Mopar diagnosis video. I take a deep dive into the different components that factor into cranking and starting, and give you a handful of helpful diagnostic tips if you can’t get your classic muscle car era Dodge, Plymouth, or Dodge truck to crank.
This information applies to the A-body, such as the Dodge Dart and Plymouth Valiant; B-body, such as the Dodge Charger and Plymouth Belvedere; C-body, such as the Chrysler Newport and Dodge Monaco; E-body, meaning the Dodge Challenger and Plymouth Barracuda; and similar era Dodge trucks (such as the D100) from 1961 or so on up to the 1990s, excluding some rolling component updates.
Literally the best diagnostic video out there. Followed the ridiculously easy steps given and found my neutral safety switch on my 71 demon is garbage, fix it and everything is back to as it should be. Thanks for this video!
Happy to help! Hey, I have a ‘71 Demon too. Haha.
Funny it was running when drop off. I just taped up wiring harness because it was a web mess. Painted valve covers. And now just cranks no fire. Also no ballast just a external condenser on positive side coil. Did not change anything. But I see videos with ballast . I think 1988 is one off year. It has til carb. And 3 prong connector for distributor. Blows my mind. I think they had a bad connection from key to coil. That's my chevy mind. This is my first 318 2bbq mopar engine. Don't the condenser do what the balist does drops voltage?
I've replaced everything an still no crank
I was just saying the same thing. He literally helped me resolve my issue
@@chrisdemarco2473Condenser/ capacitor is not a resistor by function. It reduces pitting on your points and helps last longer. Watch more DDG videos before u mess up anything. Cheers!
I have a 63 dart and this has some of the best info I've seen about old mopar yet
I tried explaining this to a friend out of state via the phone, who was having starter issues with his 70 'Cuda. I came across your video which was perfect for him so I sent it to him.
Also, having owned 2 Chargers, (a '66 & '67) and a '70 'Cuda, it was a thrill to see a glimpse your Charger! Thanks!
this is the best description ever !!! thank you for making it easy to understand
Very clear diagnostic sequence. Concepts same for any vehicle. Thanks!
Man, all this information is super helpful. You are a godsend. I love the information and how you present it. These are the exact issues I’m dealing with at the moment and being that I have an old Mopar, probably for some time to come.
You are going to be one of my top RUclips channels from here on. Thanks again, to uncle Tony for turning me onto you. 👍
Some of the most positive positive channels on Mopar issues to come out on RUclips. ❤
Outstanding! Happy to help! Glad you found me - and if you have any questions, you can always ask in the comments. Thank you.
Just fixed my cranking issues on my 1977 Winnebago Brave (Mopar 440) using your video. Very helpful. Thanks.
Awesome! Happy to help.
Dead Dodge Garage, you have provided the exact infermation. For the immediate situation that I had. Experienced with my 1973 Dodge Carger SE. Two days ago.
Thank you
Glad to help!
Thanks for making this video you helped me out today with a problem I was having with my 66 dart.
just bought a 74 scamp i know nothing about wiring especially mopar this is super simple!! thanks
Thanks for the information, the very best I have seen yet, just went to the test myself, thank you
The curse of the occasional intermittent no start situation. No matter how many times you try and duplicate it in the garage, it doesn’t happen. What’s guaranteed to trigger it is being dressed up and out for the evening on a date.
Charging problems and flickering lights, too…
I have one too. Yep, always does it only when my girlfriend is in the passenger seat. Thing is haunted.
Note*** you can manually jump the starter
Thankyou. Great video. My 1974 Dodge motorhome with the 440 V8 has that starter relay junction box on the frame in the middle right next to the transmission. I'm gonna try replacing it. Has anyone else replaced it and had the problem of the 'intermitate start' problem go away?
Thank you so much for your video working on a 1971 Dodge Charger with a 383 in it. Couldnt get it to start. Followed your instructions, found it to be the relay.
Literally an amazing video bro!! I literally went through that whole beginning list almost and my mechanic was like nooooo look at this instead- I never would have guessed with the neutral switch 😱
Awesome! Glad I could help. I haven’t seen a lot of neutral safety switches fail really. That’s interesting.
@@DeadDodgeGarage update! Everything works after I simply swapped the entire relay!! Still gunna do the neutral switch just in case- thank you!!
Thanks great detail and clearly spoken you absolutely help understand the potential problem and how to trace
Good job, very good explanation and simple helped me out a lot, thanks.
Great job. Love the simple commentary
Thank you for the video. It saved me today on my current project.
I have finally made it to the infamous video!!! I see why it got the views that is has.....WELL DONE!!!
This video was exactly what I needed Thanks so much
Thanks for this! Had the exact issue you are describing and was able to get my 76 W100 back up and running!
Wow!
Removed battery from my '73 Dodge (318? 360?) motorhome years ago. Hasn't run since. Both positive and negative cables are BLACK. Forgot to label the positive cable. Now: new battery. Uh oh! Which cable is which? Came across your INFORMATIVE video (subscribed to your channel, too). Starter relay diagram @ 7:53 was just what I needed. Thank you! Liked the humor, too.
Everything my 11th grade shop teacher should've told me! Thank You, sir.
You made that so easy to understand. Staring at the wiring diagram is not as fun. Thanks!
Nicely done vid. As a retired EE with mopars I sometimes get a kick out of keyboard electricians, so your last segment was right on.
I’m no electrical engineer by any stretch, I just… have about half a clue and can explain my thinking. Haha. Thank you.
You helped me get my Charger started today, thank you
Happy to help!
excellent video. well done , easy to understand.
Thanks.
Thank you so much this video. It was a life saver. God bless you.
This is right on time! Now I can troubleshoot it myself👍
Thank you this is a major help on my 84 RC
Great video. Very informative 👍
Really informative video. Thanks for keeping it simple
That “ground” guy shows up on every electrical trouble shooting discussion. Can you imagine what the engine compartment on his car looks like, individual hard wired grounds for every single accessory, all running back to the battery negative terminal, it must look like the back side of a New York City telephone exchange building a hundred years ago.
Cannot believe wiggling the shifter didn’t cross my mind you’re a life saver
Thanks dude good job,fixed my 69 coronet,relay switch
Bought a 66 dart and about 1k in parts was in the back and I dried a relay when trying to start the car because I had accidentally left the air filter cover over the battery terminals and burnt the relay. Luckily there was an extra one in the trunk and this video allowed me to diagnose the problem. Thanks!
Nice! Happy to help. I once bent the crap out of a header in my Swinger, which then shorted out the starter connections somehow, which fried the relay (and positive cable.) I fixed the cables and replaced the relay, and all was well.
Excellent Job!
Excellent video. 50+. years of driving Chryslers has taught me that often tapping on the starter relay with the handle of screwdriver will often get the car to fire right up. Replace the relay. Problem solved. On later model vehicles with the relay a new small one it's possible that the cover on the box may be mismarked. I worked on one truck where this was case
You have literally solved a 2 year issue I was having. The shunt wire saved me
Outstanding! Happy to help.
Excellent video
Thank you for the trouble shooting tips; genius! Love your content.
Great video, needed this for my 72 Challenger that just shut off mid drive on the highway at 65mph
Thank you very much this problem is driving me insane. Own mopars since 1978 I never had one do this seems everything I check is not the problem. But I'll check out the stuff that you put in your video
It is unbelievable how reliable these old Mopars can be after sitting. I once left my 318 74 charger sitting for over a year with a warn out civic battery in it. 1 day i just hopped in it, gave it seven pumps, turned the key and kept pumping. It fired right up on first try lol. It has currently been sitting for about 4 years and im about to give it a go with a cleaned out carb, new gas, and a borrowed battery. Will let you know in a few days if it worked ahaha
Great video
Very informative. Cleared up a mystery to understand the safety neutral switch. I have a 69 roadrunner that has a 3 pronged safety switch plug and I got a early style transmission with a one wire switch. Looking for a later model trans but no luck yet short of buying a rebuilt one from summit catalog. Thanks for sharing.
You may have another problem with early trans and late engine - the pilot / hub on the torque converter changed sizes as well. I can never remember the exact change over year, or which size is which. I know there is a spacer available commercially to center the smaller hub in the larger opening. I think you’re out of luck going the other way.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for replying. My transmission is out of a 68 roadrunner and my research tells me that early 68s had the single wire and later 68 and on has the 3 wire like my 69. If I can’t find one like I want I’ll probably just get a TCI Street fighter. That has the later one. I do appreciate you taking time too reach out.
Thanks...hope to get my 79 dodge rv running
outstanding easy to follow vid, going to use this on my 69 gtx, fingers crossed,,
Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll help as much as I can.
i love you man. thank you.
After todays mechanical nonsense I cant thank DDG enough for explaining things to me like im 5. It was much needed!
Hi Jamie. I have a 66 Charger - all stock with 727 torqueflite. Was originally a non A/C 318 but someone dropped a 400 big block into at some point in it's life.
I have the classic issue with the EL gauges. I have good 12V power coming from the battery. No issues with starter or headlights. Courtesy lights all work and have power, and same with turn indicator signals in the gauge cluster. But I have no power to the electroluminescent gauges, no power to the original AM radio and no power to the torqueflite shifter panel.
I have replaced the transformer behind the glovebox and I've replaced the fuses - still no joy. Someone suggested replacing the headlight switch unit - I have a new one but haven't fitted it yet.
I know with EL gauges, when one goes, it knocks the rest out. I wasn't expecting it to knock out power to the radio though.
I have done some reading tests on power coming from the white/orange wires that connect to the power transformer, I've got 12v coming through the orange wire but nothing coming through the white one - that's not right, right?
The white wires are the various outputs to the EL accessories. As this output is AC, you likely wouldn’t get a reading with your meter on DC anyway, or not one that made sense anyway. Good that you’ve verified you do have power going into the transformer - on the orange wire. This is the standard dash lighting color code in classic Mopars. In the Charger, the shifter and radio back light are also electroluminescent. I assume you mean only the back lighting is out in the radio? An EL problem definitely won’t knock the radio itself out, just the lighting. As I’m sure you know, the transformer is a common failure. I have replaced mine twice… and it’s dead again. But obviously you’ve ruled that out already, assuming your new one is good.
You could check the white wire for AC voltage, but I think it’s worth assuming there is none, as you have no lights. What you’ve likely got going on is a short somewhere. You are correct - If any of the EL circuits are shorted, it knocks out all of them. The alternating current can no longer alternate - or something like that. I’m a DC guy. Haha. Anyway, the diagnosis for this is as follows - disconnect the AC / lighting circuits one by one until everything else lights up. You could start with the shifter and radio, but I would guess your issue is in the cluster. It’s been years since I went through my cluster, but I believe you can disconnect the gauges one by one from behind with them still in the car. There may also be a disconnect for the entire cluster.
The ultimate fix in my experience - if you do find the issue is in the gauges - is to pull the cluster and transformer, put them on the bench, and go through them one by one. You can power the transformer on the bench with a battery or with a bench power supply if you have one available. Remove each gauge, clean any corrosion and nastiness that you may see, and reinstall. This can also brighten the gauges if they don’t work well. I have used conductive liquid circuit stuff for the needles… with mixed results. Very difficult to repair with a solderer. Can do more harm than good.
Very good thanks!!
Top shelf stuff
40 likes including mine??? This video is WAY underrated. Thx great video
You need to share it
@@ramiram84 I have no platform to share it to or I absolutely would
Love that first Gen Charger
your the man!!!!!!!🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thank you for all the helpful information! Still chasing down that gremlin. So a quick question if you have time I have a MSD blaster to coil reading 1.0 on primary and 11.57 on secondary is this coil any good?
I love your intro.
I told my wife: "see I'm not the only one that cleans that way"
Awesome thank you!!
You bet!
Very helpful
good video i like it !
Glad I found your channel. Like your diagrams. My idea regards to amp guage: could a insulated bus bar be installed across the two poles to take some load off the Amp guage? Your thought?
I do think that would work. The trouble is, that doesn’t bypass the firewall connector - which is the bigger of the two problems… if you’re pulling more current than the amp gauge can handle, you’re definitely pulling more current than the firewall connector should handle.
Just tie those two wires together and bypass that fire hazard and put a after market gauge in the car
@@michaeljarnagin7364 Amp gauges fry, sure, but again - your solution doesn't address the firewall connector problem, which is as big of a concern on these cars.
Just found your channel. Love it. I have an 85 ramcharger 318 all was fine idling in park shifted to reverse and it shut off. And nothing. Popped hood and ground wire to starter was melting. Any help wound greatly appreciated.
Ground wire to starter? There shouldn’t be a ground wire going to the starter… unless your main ground wire goes down there? My area of electrical expertise is in the 60s and 70s so I’m having a hard time picturing what that could be without seeing it. I have had shorts in the alternator fry main supply wires in the past. There are definitely many other possibilities. I wonder if you’re looking at a positive wire though. If you need more help you can email me pictures at jamienoise@gmail.com
Thank you 💯💯💯💯🙏
Not covered in the video, but I bought a 80s Dodge truck once that would crank but not start. They had given up on it. The small body ground to the battery had pulled out of it's ring terminal and fallen down kind of out of sight. I reattached it and the truck was perfectly fine. Ran like a top.
Interesting. I wouldn’t have included that as a rule, because I have had plenty of cars with a missing body ground that by all rights should have issues like that, and yet don’t. And sometimes the symptom is different. Our van, for example - it had (still has? I don’t think I’ve fixed it) a ground terminal issue where the body ground comes out because it’s a hair short. When that happens, it starts and runs fine - but doesn’t charge. Reconnect the body ground and it charges. I still haven’t figured out how that makes sense.
Please more Videos!!
Thank you, this video is a life saver. I purchased a 1979 motorhome with a 440ci in December. Totally unfamiliar with mopar or motorhomes. There is no power to anything in cab, key, accessories or starter. After a few weeks I was able to find the relay mounted on inside of frame next to transmission. I reached up to check the wires and wondered why there was a vacuum hose in that spaghetti western. After further investigation it turned out to be a wire that vaporized on the inside only leaving the rubber jacket. I am presuming this is what you call the fusible link? The fuse is the wire about 4 inches long connected from bat on relay to another red wire going into harness? I haven't removed the relay yet as I wanted to get new one and research what else I should be replacing first as to not get wires mixed up but your video has made me feel more at ease now. What could be the cause of it melting? Thanks for your help !
That sure sounds like a fusible link. Just like a fuse, they protect against dead short circuits to ground and excessive draw. So you may well be dealing with another issue that will hopefully make itself apparent with a new fusible link installed.
@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for replying....since posting I've watched a couple more of your videos. Process of elimination is key here. I'm sure I will be well educated on classic mopar ignition systems by the time I get this all sorted out. It wouldn't be so difficult if it was at least in a class c motorhome as the factory cab would be there but unfortunately the class a motorhome do not leave factory with anything except frame, suspension and drive train. All the things that would normally be found on the firewall and wheel wells is not on class A which makes it difficult to find where things are. Thanks again from southern alberta and I look forward to more videos.
The way you cleaned off the work bench makes me want to attempt that with the Acadian mechanics I work with but as you said it might not kill me but it may cause me great harm
Thanks for the great vids! I am having to replace my key ignition relay switch on my 82 B250 w 360 and I am having trouble getting the key cylinder connecting rod out of the switch and I can’t see well into the area. Do you know if they just can be pried out of the switch body or is it retained internally and actually part of the switch? I don’t want to bend it by too much prying but all DIY docs just say “unconnect rod from old switch and pull out electrical plugs” with no how to! Thanks so much for your work.
I’m guessing that’s a column mounted slide switch secured with two little screws? It should pop right out. A light prying from a flat head should do the trick. The rod just sits in there - or it’s supposed to - and the switch holds it in place.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks…gave it a bit more pull n’wiggle and she came free.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Now it looks like my power is being hung up in that gauge cluster. They are a unit and not separable with a large 8 cond plug in back of the assly. Everything else off that switch/relay seems to work fine with key “ON” but it won’t send to starter solenoid. I am thinking of running a separate hot wire with push button ignition switch to the ign terminal on the starter to avoid trying to find a used instrument cluster. The normal ignition switch still has to be ON with the key so….seems like it would work for me.. What do you think? BTW - Everything has been replaced, starter, battery, starter solenoid on FW and key ign relay on steering column and this is an old 82 van conversion that I use mostly hunting and fishing.
Any wisdom for a 78 trailduster that has no power in the cabin and no crank or start,but I can crank it by jumping by starter relay but no start just crank. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for the good videos.
The list of things to check may be slightly different than the basic muscle car stuff I was addressing here, but the procedures are the same. Get yourself a test light and start stabbing stuff. Fusible link will be a good one to check - and the amp gauge. But also firewall connector. One way or another, your main power feed isn’t reaching the important bits inside the truck.
You've given me some things to try. I've been chasing an electrical gremlin in my 78 150. She'll start but not with the key or jumping the relay. I have to run a wire directly from battery positive to the small nut on the starter. Once running she runs fine
If jumping the relay doesn’t work then it must be a break in the small wire leading from relay to starter. Or bad crimp? Or bad connection at one end or the other. That is a direct connection to the small connection and it should do exactly the same thing electrically speaking. I’ve never seen that before, but hey, there’s a first time for everything.
@@DeadDodgeGarage it's new to me too. I was always able to jump the relay or the starter itself. Probably sitting for some time in Louisiana has diminished a few wires and connections.
Could also be bad contacts in the relay, if it pulls in and you don't get power out of the load side but have power on the feed side then most likely the contacts are bad.@@DeadDodgeGarage
@@stephenwest798 He said it wouldn't crank when jumping/bridging the relay, bypassing any potential relay failure in the doing.
Correct, I was just pointing out the fact that if the relay pulls in and you don't get power out of it then the contact are most likely bad, some people think a relay is good just because it pulls in, they can hear it click, we both know better than that but not everyone does.@@DeadDodgeGarage
Thanks for great content! What gauge wire would you recommend for the shunt wire?
I usually go for 8 gauge. You bet!
@@DeadDodgeGarage you’re the man! (Any forums you recommend for 1st gen Dodge B series vans? They seem scarce) cheers from Victoria, Vancouver Island Canada!
Thanks!
new to mopar have a lindsay air compressor with a 360 with issues. The alternator wire is fried. it has no power to starter. Gonna try some of your ideas. any advice wood be nice.
Well that’ll be fun. I wouldn’t know anything about the electrical system found in that - but I suspect the principles are similar. Have to wonder if it has a Chrysler charging system, or a GM as is so often found on equipment like that. Wonder if there was a short in the alternator and it cooked something important.
Fusible links on some dodge trucks my 1985 ramcharger has them
Iv been having problems with low-voltage to the + coil which I can fix out way & where to fix this problem it’s definitely something in the wiring just where. It’s a 75 w300 360 4 speed.
How low a voltage are we talking? What actual symptoms do you have? Under normal operating conditions you should see like 7-8v at coil positive. A little lower may even be normal. It should show ~12v with the key on the run position but engine off. The coil will get full battery voltage during cranking but this likely won’t actually show 12v either due to draw from starter. Feel free to reply in a new comment - if you reply to this one I won’t get a notification so I may never see it.
Little white do=hickey on the fire wall, seemed to fix coil problems on Chrysler products back in the day
If I have a bad ignition switch (key broke off inside). Is there any way to bypass it so I can have power to the coil. I’m trying to get a 1970 dart running and I don’t really want to wait for the new ignition switch
Jumper wire from battery positive to the input side of the ballast resistor (one or two blue wires - opposite the side that feeds the coil, which should have a brown wire.) Jump starter relay with screwdriver. Easy.
enjoyed the video. I have a 63 Valiant push button auto. It has an electronic ignition set up which was on the car when I bought it. Am I able to follow the troubleshooting step?. I have a new alternator and thought it was a battery problem when I was able to jump start yesterday. I changed the battery and dead as can be. One click first attempt, prayer, then nothing on 2nd attempt. no power to the car, no lights, wipers. Oil light lights up then fades quickly. I will look for starter relay on the firewall like the 64 dart. It is not on wall near battery. Thanks
Wiggle your battery cables! I do mention that in the video - give them a twist and reef them downward. I’m thinking you have corrosion crap in there, that’s usually the one click. It arcs out trying to pull enough juice to turn the starter and then breaks the connection. You could also clean them with a battery terminal brush.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Friend of mine help me out. found a draw from some dash wires which he repaired. Car starts right up but now the amp meter is doing the dancing thing although is always reads charging. Almost settles when accelerating. New battery and alternator. I heard of running a ground from Voltage regulator to negative cable as well as one to the alt housing solves this. Or should I spring for a new VVR.
Dude I need your help! I follow your videos. 1986 Ramcharger 360 royal se. Everything was working fine then all of a sudden. Headlights won’t turn on, no radio, no dash lights , no power windows. The blinker lights will still turn on. I’m stumped
😂
Trucks like that have multiple fusible links. I’m guessing you fried one of them. I don’t have a whole lot of expertise on those later trucks unfortunately. The basic principles are the same but there is a lot more going on. There should be a fusible link pack near to the driver side inner fender. It’ll probably be like four red wires all coming out of one big ball. Look and see if any of those have melted. If so, you can replace it - but you’ll be left with the question of what shorted out and fried it in the first place.
Can you bypass the two wires on the back of a amp gauge in a Plymouth if you are using aftermarket gauges
Absolutely. Splice them together in an effective way. If you add an external charge wire (shunt wire - alternator output to battery positive) then there will be very little load on those wires.
Hi, Does shunting direct charger to bat sort of help the melted firewall issue?
Yes, that’s kind of the whole point really. I discuss that toward the end of my charging systems video. It takes most of the load off of the firewall connector and amp gauge, which should make a big difference.
I got a 77 dodge w200 it has power to relay but won't crank, I replaced the relay didn't help, so I buy passed it with a jumper wire, would this be the safety switch
It has power where? On the trigger wire when cranking or at the big stud? If there is trigger power from the key switch in the cranking / start position, and ground through the neutral safety, the relay will do its thing. So - maybe. When you say jumper wire, do you mean from the neutral safety connection to ground? That would indicate a neutral safety issue - but maybe your shifter is adjusted wrong. Maybe the wire fell off. Lots of possibilities here.
Great video! 472 hemi, 5 sp manual, no crank condition. Have 12.6 volts at battery and starter. Have power inside the vehicle. If I jump the relay, get a lot of sparks but no crank. Bench tested starter and it works. Any ideas where to go next? Thanks
I would be suspicious of the main power cable going down to the starter. If there are sparks, the solenoid is being energized. But I would also expect to hear it clicking/clunking as the gear kicks out. Also, make sure the engine turns by hand.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Got it, thanks for the reply. Engine turns by hand. I'll have to check out / replace the cable, although its in like new condition.
@@DeadDodgeGarage New starter did the trick. While the old starter passed the bench test, it apparently couldn't do it under load. Note there was a click previously and no crank. Thanks.
Hi there me again 72 Fury I have located the short behind my dash at the amp meter gauge. So I’m going to disconnect it and join the two wires together. My question is when removing the cluster do I have to drop the steering column I can’t seem to get the cluster out. I checked all the wiring and I have continuity between the negative and positive battery terminals with the battery disconnected so I suspect it can only be the amp gauge shorted out. But that’s my question. Do I have to drop the steering column. I can’t seem to reach it from under the dash.
I don’t know C body all that well, but I’m sure you will have to at least drop the column down a bit. If you have any accessories on battery, like a modern stereo with memory for example, or if you have the door open when you are doing checking, a continuity test between the terminals *should* show something, meaning there is a path to ground. But a resistance test will inform you whether that path is through some accessory (some amount of resistance,) or a dead short (essentially zero resistance.)
74 duster 318. No crank. Battery good-check, new neutral safety switch - check, new relay - check, power in car- check, power to relay -check, cranks and starts at terminals of relay -check. Disconnected neutral safety switch from relay and grounded to bolt - starter clicks like battery is dead, no crank or start. Checked linkage on transmission 100 of times - check. I need to check voltage from yellow wire from ignition key. What should the voltage be at that connection? Would the ignition switch be the issue? Just when you think your done, something else pops up. Gotta love old cars.😵💫 Thanks in advance. Love the channel 👍.
74 only has a seatbelt interlock solenoid. Yours could well be bad… But first, put on your seatbelt and try again.
I never use the seatbelt 🤪🤣. I will check that and reply back. Thank you for the quick response. U da best.
Hi I tried starting my 1969 dodge charger rt sitting 30 year’s turn ignition switch nothing happens, have some accessories and head lights new battery. But the wierd thing is when hooked up the battery, the starter began to spin on it own wondering why that would do that
Lots of possibilities you’re going to have to work through there. Wires on the big and small terminals on the starter relay making contact can do that. Same with the two wires on the starter itself. Or, the relay stuck closed, or a short in the starter itself. Starter relay being bad after sitting forever is not at all uncommon, but they usually just don’t work - not normal for them to stick on.
I think I may have a neutral safety switch issue. Recently repaired a transmission leak and now 67 VIP doesn’t always start when in park. Car cranks but doesn’t fire. Im getting power to interior / exterior lights, 12v. After reading a few forums I decided to try starting the car in neutral with the parking brake engaged and she fired right up.
If the starter cranks, the neutral safety switch is fine. It sounds kind you stumbled across some crazy fluke. I wonder what the heck is causing that though. Moving the shifter changes nothing else, unless it’s wiggling an important wire somewhere…
@@DeadDodgeGarage it’s a very strange situation. The car would fire up almost immediately 95% of the time prior to having that transmission leak repaired. I also had the steering gear box replaced so possibly a loose wire somewhere as you’ve mentioned. I’ll get it to a shop next weekend. Btw, excellent video!
I have a 1977 power wagon m885 when I turn the key I get the lights and have power when I turn the key to crank it I hear what sounds like a relay but no crank but if I short it across the relay it fires right up has me scratchen my head have you ever run into this problem
Yes. There are a few possibilities. The most obvious would be a starter relay that clicks but no longer puts out power. There could also be something else powering on with the key, but then clicking off when you turn the key to crank, as the accessory circuits lose power during cranking. The test I would have you do isn’t mentioned in the video, but the first two parts are - check for ground at starter relay, check for power at trigger wire when key is turned to crank (need an assistant) and then check the output wire in the middle for power with everything connected (and your assistant turning key to crank.) This should point you in the right direction.
Hi , nice video .
My problem comes once in a while .
I turn the key no crank but I hear a little clic on the starter .
After several tries it cranks and starts .
It is a 1970 383 magnum .
Any idea to pin point the faulty part .
I'm in a wheelchair and can't do all your recommand procedure .
If I could have a good idea before going to a mechanic it would be good .
Thank you and have a nice day .
If it clicks, your key switch circuit and neutral safety circuit are good, so you can skip all of that. It is either 1) a bad starter, 2) a bad starter relay, or 3) a bad positive battery cable or connection. Personally, I’ve got money on the starter itself. There are a few tests that could be done, but only when it will not start. And knowing the way of the universe, when you take it to a mechanic, it always will… anyway, hope this helps.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thank you very much . 🙂
I have a 68 dodge Monaco with a factory 440 Magnum. Starts fine when cold but when it gets to operating temperature, it won’t start at the ignition switch. Note: new relay, new starter, new voltage regulator, new plugs, new wires. ONLY won’t start by key when it’s at operating temp. It will only start by jumping the relay OR after the engine cools downs. any help would be appreciated
When you say won’t start, do you mean won’t crank with the starter, or will crank but won’t fire? I took this to mean won’t fire, which would indicate you are losing the IGN 2 feed. I’m not sure on a ‘68 C body, but this is generally a brown wire coming from the key switch to the ignition system - either connecting at the output side of the ballast resistor, or directly to coil positive. The only electrical difference between cranking with the key and jumping the relay is IGN 1 is still powered up when you are jumping the relay, but that power feed goes away when cranking in favor of IGN 2. This wire could be crispy, it could have a poor connection through the firewall, or this could even be a weird ignition switch issue. The IGN 2 wire is back-fed voltage the whole time the car is running - but a lower voltage due to the resistor in the circuit - and I have seen issues with them before.
Perhaps you can tell me why my starter relay keeps going bad? Like, brand new a month ago and now won't start with the key, I have to arc the contacts again to start it. Turn the key and all I hear is a "boing" behind the dash
Huh. This isn’t a ‘74, is it? Just trying to think of any likely possibilities outside of the relay itself, because there really isn’t any good reason for those to fail repeatedly. Unlike the separate Ford solenoids, these relays carry very little load. If this is a one time thing, it could be that you just got a crappy one out of the box - but if this is something that happens repeatedly, there is obviously something more to it.
I have a 1956 dodge custom royal. crank's with spark at the points but not at the plugs . i have new rotor and cap. Any ideas on this?
Possibly weak spark from the coil? You could start with a coil resistance test. You’ll want to look that up - I can never remember the right specs. I wonder if a failing condenser could also cause this. Not sure there - but they can do weird things.
You mentioned adding a shunt wire from alternator charge to battery positive. I'm working on a 1978 power wagon 150 with original charging system and guage. If I add the shunt wire will my battery not overcharge?
How the charge reaches the battery has essentially nothing to do with charge output / voltage. The shunt allows charge to reach the battery directly instead of going through the firewall connector circuits, taking load off of them and helping to keep those circuits from heating up and frying. If you are having overcharging problems, you either have a bad voltage regulator, bad voltage regulator connector, bad voltage regulator ground to the firewall (common on those trucks, with the regulator in the drip line,) or… like all of those at once.
@DeadDodgeGarage thank you for the reply. It's not overcharging, just wasn't sure how it wouldn't overcharge if the alternator was wired directly to the battery. As long as it's safe for the battery I'm going to go ahead and do it. Seems like a great idea
@@jeffreyhaarsager3287 Gotcha. Just conceptually, I hope it makes sense then. There is already a factory connection from the alternator stud to the battery - it just goes through the cab of the truck, sucks, is too small, gets hot, corrodes in places, melts, catches fire, etc. You're simply adding a better connection. I would have to suggest that you also add a heavy fuse in a solid mounted fuse holder to the shunt wire you add - something in the 60-100 amp range will be sufficient with a stock charging system. The last one I installed came from Amazon, and was very affordable.
What wires from the factory engine harness will be used with a new 6.4 hemi swap into a 69 gtx?
Pretty much all of them, with some modifications.
I like this video Here is my problem. I turn ignition switch on, all lights show up on instrument panel But no start no crank So I checked fuses, relays All are good So I disconnect the wire on the solenoid switch on starter S terminal Ran a wire up to battery and with switch on Touch the Pos on battery and she cranks up I also while I was under truck I connected a wire to the wire I took loose ran it up to top of engine so I can test to see if it is hot, ( that wire should be hot when you turn the switch to crank the truck) when ever I think I have found the problem SO now I can research my problem I found at the fuse box Starter Relay and Fuse were good So I pulled the fuse and noticed where the fuse plugs in (you have 2 male legs) only one side where the leg plugs in had a female clip So the fuse is not connecting I took box loose Flipped it over looking for a wire that is just laying there not connected to anything I have looked of and on for 4 days and have not found a loose wire Now I'm puzzled ILL keep checking and hope I find the problem
I think you’re looking for a wire that isn’t there. Also, no fuse has anything to do with the starting circuit, so there isn’t much point in looking there anyway. What vehicle is this you’re working on? If it’s a classic Chrysler product from at least the mid 60s to the mid 70s, I have given you all of the tests in this video to narrow down which component is keeping it from cranking. Neutral safety switch and starter relay are the most common failures.
I've watched your video 3 times and I don't think it addresses my problem . 1 day out of the blue on my 62 Dart I had nothing , no lights no click, click put charger on battery , no charge needed , cleaned firewall connectors then had lights and just a click, click .once it tryed to start but cranked real slow tryed the charger again and charger went to like 8 amps or so waited for battery to charge try starter again and click then tryed to crank again. Got a known good battery from another car try to start and same story. Bridge the 2 terminals on starter relay and just click click . What could be wrong? Would appreciate a little more help, thanks
The video definitely addresses your problem - one way or another. You need to go through the different points that I described where the main power flows and check the voltage readings. How’s the fusible link look? Can you pull it apart by chance? Sometimes they are toasted but just barely hanging together. An amp gauge failure usually leads to absolutely zero power, but it could potentially do this too. When you were in the firewall connector, how did it look? Any corrosion or loose terminals? I would be leaning toward that or the fusible link because moving that caused a change. Voltage reading at battery, voltage reading at big stud of starter relay, voltage reading at outside of firewall connector, then inside firewall connector, then both sides of the amp gauge… compare these readings, and it should point you right toward the problem - between the last good reading and the bad one.
Does this work for 1977 Chrysler Cordoba? Would love to get my dad’s car to run again. He got it to crank last month after sitting for 25 years, but still no start
The electrical systems got more complicated as the 70s wore on, with emissions components and such, but the main circuits are very similar. I would be looking at the ignition system. I can’t remember which year it was introduced, but if it has lean burn, I would be very suspicious of an issue with that.
If my relay clicks but still doesn't crank what can I dial it down too? Neutral safety is working as far as I can tell and shifter adjustment is good
It wouldn’t be clicking if neutral safety didn’t work. If you jump the relay with a screwdriver, does it crank? If so, replace the relay.
@@DeadDodgeGarage yes relay will alow it to crank if I jump it, it's an 82 ramcharger so a different relay setup, when I turn the key should the amp gauge light up?
I have a '66 Ply Fury and wondering how many volts come out of the yellow wire of the ignition when the ignition is solely turned to the "ON" or "Run" position without cranking the engine or engaging the starter?
Is it the same yellow wire at the starter relay that goes to the start relay that I showed on the Dart in the video (and is in the thumbnail of this video?) If so, that's the starter relay trigger wire, which should show zero volts unless the key is in the start position.
@@DeadDodgeGarage It is the same wire as one you show. I pulled out my multimeter and tested each pin at the ignition switch. In off position I would get >> blk=0 volts, red=17.4 v, yel=7.4 v, brwn=5.8 v, dk blue's=0.2 v; in start position (no cranking) >> blk=17.4 v, red=17.4 v, yel=15.7 v, brwn=15.6 v, dk blue's=17.4 v & in Start position & cranking engine w/starter >> blk=0 volts, red=17.4 v, yel=17.4 v, brwn=17.2 v, dk blue's=0.2 v . Then after dinner, I was reading that a multimeter can result in higher volt readings if its battery is low and well, the battery symbol was on during my testing so my results noted above are jacked up but hopefully will be consistent as shown depending on position of key/ignition. I am such a novice at this but I'll get it. I installed a Pertronix Ignitor II with matching Flame Thrower 0.6 ohm coil.
@@CarlosSilva-bl1ch That's all very strange. I don't trust those readings at all, but you may have explained most of that. Does your engine try to crank itself with the key turned to run? Why are you even checking this?
@@DeadDodgeGarage I needed to make sure I would get 12v at the new coil which I am now that I am bypassing ballast resistor as highly recommended when installing these Pertronix products. Anyhow, I wanted to better understand the wires coming out of the ignition switch and checking their voltage before exiting the cabin and then after in the engine compartment with ignition switch to On-only (no engine cranking) and ign switch passed On while cranking engine. With some help from my son, I was able to verify the voltage(s) of the various wires coming from the ign. I think I'm all good for now. I apologize for any inconvenience and time.
@@CarlosSilva-bl1ch Ahh, ok - very good. The only thing I will add is, I seem to recall that the Pertronix points replacement systems do want a ballast resistor still in place? I don't want to swear to that and give you the wrong information. I would refer to their installation instructions.
Hi there, on the amp gauge is one side negative and one side positive or are they both positive. In order to bypass the gauge can I join those two wires together?
No negative - positive in, positive out. Yes, that is the correct way to bypass the gauge.
Thank you very much. I will give that a try on the weekend. I have absolutely no power inside the car no headlights no nothing. I have power at the battery. I have power at the fusible link and I have power at the starter relay. I’m gonna follow all your instructions and I’ll report back to you Once I get this solved. Thank you so much for your very informative video.