Classic Mopar Fuel Gauge Problems (And Gauge Voltage Limiter Info)
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- Опубликовано: 4 апр 2022
- In my world full of classic Chrysler products, it seems like a working fuel gauge is a rare thing to find. On today’s episode, I walk you through all of the common issues, and show you a few ways to test the various components. This information applies to any Chrysler body style from the muscle car era - A body (Dart and Valiant,) B body (Charger and Roadrunner,) C body, E body (Challenger and Barracuda,) and even trucks and vans, such as the D100 and B300.
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As an old school auto instrument repairer, I agree with everything you've said here, actually you're the first to reasonably accurately describe how the system works. Whenever I get a set of gauges to repair, the thermal regulator is chucked by default, working or not, and replaced with the solid state unit you pointed out.
The original thermal regulator has a duty cycle of 60% off, 40% on, thus 40 % of 12 volts is 5 and they are adjsted very carefully at factory and, as sate in SOME videos out there, are NOT adjustable.
It is averaged out but the gauges are calibrated at factory to 5 volts not 6.
Back in the day, the common resistance in the US for gauges for most vehicles was 73-10 but while the temp and oil senders might have been interchangeable, good luck using parts from other fuel senders, the float maybe but that's about it.
You didn't mention the solid state regulator is an LM7805 (1 amp ) and when I build replacement regulators for classic instruments I always add a 6.8 ohm 5 watt resistor to the 12 volt input to limit the input current. Without it, the regulator gets super hot and has to work really hard, even if you bolt it to the cluster back case or use a heat sink. The 7805 is still working within its limits but working really hard so the addition of the resistor to the 12 volt line keeps the regulator cooler and happier.
Oh, and best to use one 7805 per gauge.
The only difference in operation between the thermal and the 7805 is that with the original thermal (when working properly) the gauge would receive a full 12 volts on start up for a few seconds before the points start to open and close and thus the pointer would climb to it's position quickly. The 7805 delivers 5 volts from start and so the gauge pointer rises slowly to the designation position.
Anyways, good information, and the most accurate I've seen on youtube so far.
very helpful video, just got a 72 dart and has very limited issues, this is the only one I couldn't figure out. ended up the limiter was bad, thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for your time and video. Awesome stuff You helped me with my 68' Valiant Signet /225 from Santa Barbara, Ca
Good schematic and function breakdown
Nicely done hopefully we get to see more videos in the future 😎
rock solid info! The fuel gauge on my Dart is out so now I can get to work.
Dealing with this issue now.With every episode of yours my little 65 Dart 273 gets more gooder.Thanks Jamie subbed for life.
Happy to help! Thanks!
Never mind I found your video on the issue. Thanks for what you do
I think you'll find the voltage limiter in that rallye cluster is the type that's built into the fuel gauge. Actually, hopefully you'll never need to find that out.
A couple years ago I replaced the gauge in my 70 Swinger with the guts from a gauge from an 82 Jeep. The Jeep's gauge housing is exactly the same as the Swinger's but the face is different. I put the Swinger's gauge face on the Jeep's housing, added a voltage limiter, and for the first time since the late 1980's the car has a fuel gauge. Revolutionary.
That’s brilliant! Jeep CJ? I’ve swapped fuel gauges between various Mopars - same deal, they all seem to have the same mounting situation but different face styles.
Actually the rally cluster does have a separate regulator, but it’s the type that has multiple output spades for the various separate gauges and mounts backward, as all of the wiring is point to point.
Greatly appreciate this video. I wish I had seen it prior to replacing my sending unit in my 1979 power waggon however it’s done and I will order this voltage regulator in the hopes of getting my truck ready for a safety. Those driveways won’t plow themselves this winter😂
I love the fact you know what the hell you're talking about. Mad props dude. Keep em coming!
I’ve put a good bit of time in learning lessons the hard way. Haha. Happy that I now have knowledge to share and can help others out.
@@DeadDodgeGarage lmao isn't the hard way the only way to learn things. You remind me a bit of my dad too, he was a mechanic pretty much his entire life
Nice job. Very helpful.
Good video 😊 , I am actually looking forward finding the error on my 73 duster fuel gauge when it's finally done after engine overhaul. It reads slightly "over full" when it's full and empty when it's still 3/4 of a tank 😂. Video reminds me on how I got to Dead Dodge Garage, saw the "no crank no start" video which helped a lot!
I’d like to see a video on repairing the amp gauge wiring. My 73 Charger cooked the bulkhead and connector. I’ve taken the connector out at the bulkhead and ran a heavy strait wire to the gauge post. I also added a few fusible links in areas. Would love to know your input.
This video is a godsend!
Good job. 👍👍👍
I had to replace my headlight switch in my 74 sat this last weekend. Now when I ran the car on Monday my fuel and temp gauge was not working. Good timing on the video.
My oil gauge never worked. But I don't hear a knock, so I'm ignoring it.
Hope it helps! Oil gauges are extra. Often with tired old small blocks they just tell you things you don’t want to know.
excellent video, very accurate, I have seen where some people took the solid state voltage regulator and inserted it into the original mechanical regulator case, Just a suggestion
I’d never thought of that. That would make for a nice installation - but seems like a lot of work for something I’ll never see again. Haha.
You can buy solid state limiters that are in a factory looking case. (I used one.) Some sellers request the core back from you, so I suppose they are gutting old factory units and putting modern guts inside.
I had started making my own out of a 12 vdc automotivr style usb charger. I figured it was 12 volts in and 5 volts out so it should work. Then I found the repros online and abandoned that idea.
Hey jamie, thanks so much for killing it yet again! Without radio shack where do you look for a new solid state limiter? I'm not seeing one available anywhere, but then again I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for... Thanks!
www.sparkfun.com/products/107 this is what I have always used. There is also a plug in electronic limiter available commercially that replaces the old school mechanical one.
@@DeadDodgeGarage that's perfect, thank you so much!
I have a 71 Charger SE 383HP that sat for years. Fuel gauge didn't work but surprisingly after pouring in some Marvel's Mystery oil in the gas tank suddenly the fuel gauge came to life. Also if I go to long without putting Marvels in the tank the gauge quits working, so I use it regularly. Serious, Not joking!
Huh. Now that is really interesting. The gauge in my Demon randomly starts working again occasionally, and I narrowed it down to a sending unit issue in the tank during the filming of this video. I might just have to try that… for science!
Ah good point. I'm about to crank my 74 charger 318 for the first time in 4 years. Thanks for the reminder to get some marvel mystery ahaha
@@1badombre82 haha np, enjoy the ride!
Ok you got a new subscriber 👍.
What do you think of the 5V solid-state chip conversions for the voltage regulator? A few companies make them (including installing them in the factory housing), or you can try to make yourself by building a time machine and going back in time and buying the chip from Radio Shack before it became a cell phone company. Any cons?
Haaahaha. Yes, I used to buy those from radio shack and hand wire them as replacements for the gauge limiters. They work very well, and are still available online from electronic parts suppliers. Last time I needed one, I ordered five. The plug in replacement units are cool, but I like doing it the cheap and hard way.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I apologize, you actually mentioned the solid-state chip in your video now that I'm rewatching. I figured it was obscure knowledge, but figures you knew about it.
best description. ford has been kicking my but. solid state is the key.
Nice Demon BTW. I have 2 '71's a Charger R/T and a GTX and both have those vapor tanks with the 4 hoses mounted under a panel behind the left rear wheel. They also had the 3 nipple crankcase breather which vents fuel tank vapors into the crankcase. Nice. I disconnected the hose from the tank to the breather. I think each one of those 4 vapor tank hoses go to a vent pipe in each top corner of the fuel tank.
Very interesting. I know ‘71s have the four lines but had no idea how they were set up. I had a ‘71 Charger 15 years ago, and still remember seeing all those lines under that. I never drove it unfortunately. That has been a recurring theme with me and third generation Chargers, actually. I’ve owned four, and have never had one that was drivable.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I guess this is my fourth. It's a 46k mile 4-speed (440), pretty original. I had a Hemi orange R/T, a green '72 rallye 440 and a nice '71 parts car. This current R/T never had a working fuel gauge since I owned it (1998) and I bought a new sending unit and tank long ago and just got around to putting them in a few years ago. I cut the old tank open and you wouldn't believe what it looked like. First time EVER I've seen a rotted brass float. Looked like it was submerged in acid. The original sending unit was 'OK' but didn't work. The inside of the tank was abysmal. I scooped about 1/2 gallon of rust flakes out and it was really weak and nasty. Stored a long time with old gas. You could see where they ran those vents when I cut the tank open.
I think the Spectra tanks are the best, made in Canada OE quality. I used a 'stainless' sender, probably Taiwanese, but seems to work OK. There's some tabs you can bend on it to adjust the range from empty to full. I used a Spectra tank on my GTX too.
I've had so much trouble over the years with old cars (not just Chrysler) and rusty gas tanks it's almost better to just change it out. I had an '81 Imperial I used a Taiwan tank on about 15 years ago and it worked out nice. Another barn storage car. 28k miles.
@@vincemajestyk9497 Wow. Yes, I'm 100% on team "just replace the damn gas tank" at this point. I've learned my lesson on that one many times over. I've installed many Spectra tanks in various late model vehicles, but I don't think I've ever put one in a classic Mopar yet. Don't remember what brand I just put in the Barracuda, but it seemed nice enough (before I beat it savagely trying to get it onto the filler neck in the car.) We've gotten a couple tanks from Tanks Inc, and they are very nice.
@@DeadDodgeGarage The Spectra's are great tanks. They're really beautiful. They have the OE NiTerne steel which most of the imports lack. I never used 'Tanks, Inc' before but I'd be real surprised if they made their stock or catalog tanks in house for what they charge. But honestly, ANYTHING is better than an old OE tank at this point.
I had an '83 Olds 98 which happened to have a tank that looked good on the outside. I made a 200 mile trip pulling over every 20-30 miles to change fuel filters. Not fun.
I usually spray a little silicon lube on that rubber seal for the filler tube or even wipe a little gas on it with your finger. Some of those re-pro's are made out of a more plasticky material. A great deal of the reproduction rubbers and seals are real spotty these days.
Super helpful video!
Working on a 76 Dodge B300. Same issue. Charging gauge works, oil pressure gauge works (holds at 30-40 then sporadically pegs out at the top end!) Engine Temp gauge and Fuel gauge do not work. Replaced fuel sending unit. Did all the tests you showed. Got power to the fuel gauge and sender. My test probe light comes on, but about a second later starts blinking.
I'm stumped. Next step? Replace the gauge voltage limiter/regulator?
Should add, I tested the fuel gauge by bypassing the sending unit with a direct lead from the battery + post.
The gauge worked. It pegged out immediately.
Traces on circuit board? If oil gauge works, and you’re getting the flash (there should be a delay - the voltage stays steady at start up so the fuel gauge comes up quickly) then the limiter is good. Wait, you’re seeing voltage at the wire for the sender? That would indicate a lack of ground for the sending unit. Is that a plastic tank? Is the ground strap in place?
Yes it's a plastic tank.
I ran a ground wire from the ground terminal on the sending unit directly to the frame.
I just today discovered that there is no condenser/capacitor present for the voltage limiter! I plan to add that. Also, there's a ground wire coming from just below the dash that is hanging free. I'm wondering if it goes to the circuit board.
Also, if the engine Temp or the oil pressure sender is faulty, would either or both affect the fuel gauge?
@@jaycasciato9436 that condenser is not there for gauge operation, it is to prevent the opening and closing of the limiter points from interfering with your radio. I wouldn't worry about that. No, there is no ground wire to the cluster. There is one to the steering column mounting stud though. The cluster is grounded through its mounting screws, so make sure they are present and tight. No, the sending units for the other gauges will not affect the fuel gauge. They are connected to the same power source, but that's it.
I just want to clarify something. I showed how to test for voltage at the sending unit wire. If you are seeing voltage (and/or the on-off voltage) at the sending unit wire with it disconnected from the sending unit, then you have proven that the limiter, the gauge, the circuit board in the dash and its connections, and the wire running back to the tank are all fine. The only factors left are the sending unit and its ground. Connect the wire to the sending unit in such a way that you can get a probe to the metal connection. Do you still see voltage? If so, there is no path to ground to complete the circuit. Move your meter to the ground post of the sending unit. Do you still see voltage? If so, the sending unit is good (electrically speaking) and your frame ground is no good. If, by chance, you see the voltage signal on the the positive/signal post of the tank sending unit, and no voltage / good ground on the ground post of the sending unit, your new sending unit is bad.
@12:26 are you just shorting to ground the wire that goes to the sending unit? It looks like you have 12v from the battery to the voltage limiter, I'm sure the cluster is grounded already, and then you short the outbound wire to ground to check for needle movement - do I have that right?
Exactly. From my three wire spool, I had one connecting power to limiter, one grounding the limiter / cluster, and a second ground which I was temporarily touching to the sending unit wire. I don’t leave it that way long - just long enough to see gauge movement. If the cluster is wired to the car and the key is in the run position, you just ground the sending unit wire to achieve the same thing.
@@DeadDodgeGarage perfect, that’s what I did and my gauge is confirmed working. Took about 10 seconds to climb to full since my limiter pumps out 5v about once every two seconds. Thanks for the reply!
when you were using your meter in the back of the car to test the ground and then you grounded the wire to make the fuel gauge move.....is that with the key/ignition in the on position? or does it matter?
Key has to be in the run position for that to work.
Wish I had seen this video earlier😂 My 64 has it built into the fuel gauge, I found a NOS one and magically all my gauges started working, except my Amp gauge.
Yep. Built into the fuel gauge for many (all?) models in the mid 60s. Weird - amp gauge is usually the only one that works! Yours must be bypassed already.
Awesome!!
I have a non-rally dash on a 1971 Dodge Coronet, there is power to the circuit, but the limiter is apparently direct and when I open the ignition switch, the indicators do not move. Will they be Damaged?Will they be Damaged?
Direct, as in failed in the closed position, so 12v is seen at the gauges? Yes, most likely the gauges have failed due to this. When the limiter failed, they likely showed high readings briefly and then cooked.
My fuel gauge is dead, my sending unit reads the correct reading. My temp guage works, but when I check fuse I get no reading and the fuse isn't popped. What could be the problem, and answer or any ideas is much appreciated. Working on a 73 dart.
If your temp gauge works, you have power to the gauges, and a working voltage limiter. A bad fuel gauge, poor connection at the circuit board, or other wiring issue could cause this. I’d lean toward circuit board connection - our coronet has had that issue intermittently for a long time.
thank you for this, certainly stears me in the right direction. On qustion though, at the end of th video you mention if tmp and oil dont work as well then its almost definetly the limiter, does this stay true if my alternator gauge is working?
No - the ammeter / amp gauge / alternator gauge is a totally separate deal. Only factory oil, temp, and fuel gauges are powered by the limiter.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Awesome thanks for the reply eh. and yea I testd the limiter using your method and was getting zero volts. Ripped that bitch open and yup shes fried lol. Hate to bother you more but do you have a part number for the voltage regulator you used at the end or do you know of any links that may help me not destroy anything lol, thanks agai n man,cheers.
@@roryadam the ones that I solder wires onto and mount to the back of the cluster are like this one: www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/LM1084IT-5.0%2FNOPB/363556?Texas%20Instruments&PMax%20Shopping_Supplier_Texas%20Instruments&Texas%20Instruments&CjwKCAjwouexBhAuEiwAtW_Zx-TBlXiWIcYDVcdUvc0Pn4Y653_ILFCgK295Z-lqOXMPqnBetw3_NhoCdYUQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLliOrJaOMZprG9RqbTgyh3C_C&gclid=CjwKCAjwouexBhAuEiwAtW_Zx-TBlXiWIcYDVcdUvc0Pn4Y653_ILFCgK295Z-lqOXMPqnBetw3_NhoCdYUQAvD_BwE
@@DeadDodgeGarage awesome thanks man.
1979 Dodge Adventurer D150. Oil pressure gage not working. Does voltage limiter affect the oil gage also? Gas gage works but not the oil gage.
Yes. Fuel, temp, and oil are all on the limiter circuit. I would check the connections on the back of the cluster. I also have a video about fuel gauges (that covers the others as well) in the electrical playlist on my channel that may be helpful.
I know this is an old vid but, do you have the part numbers off of the solid state regulator you use. I’m going low tech on a Durango and have an early 70s sport fury cluster that fits in the original hole pretty well. It’s a nice all in one part. Speedo, gas, oil, temp. The cluster has been in dry storage for 20 years. But I figure I might as well change it out wile it’s easy to get to.
The little limiter I solder in looks like this: www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/stmicroelectronics/L7805CV/585964
The fancy plug in ones look like this (note there are a couple different styles): www.ebay.com/itm/165630787671?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=165630787671&targetid=2301729088052&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9033514&poi=&campaignid=21214286338&mkgroupid=161332760117&rlsatarget=pla-2301729088052&abcId=9407521&merchantid=6296724&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh9AeCj2nBjFCS76XVm-ArG4X&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3ZayBhDRARIsAPWzx8qwo-Cvqyh8QQQtGXcT_cFrJl3v08RkKsqtxTSUSF3tDeA3PNydPgUaAuyaEALw_wcB
@@DeadDodgeGarage thank you just ordered a few. You have really nice hats. Got mine Friday. 👍👍
I never really had a problem with the fuel gauges, and I've had a ton of Mopars. Once I did have an IVR stick and fried all my gauges as I was driving on I95 on the DC beltway. 1969 Road Runner. It was a smoke show. Lucky there were still a ton of these cars in the yards then (1990). I think I used one of the Radio Shack 7805 regulators in the can after that with a cap and resistor. Most of those gauge problems are grounds. The fuel tank sending unit is SUPPOSED to have a ground strap from the sending unit pickup nipple too the body hard line to bridge the rubber 'splice' hose. I think the RTE (Real Time Engineering Springdale, AR) is the best deal for a replacement. I bought 2 from them. They have so many features, for the price, $55, it isn't worth it to try to mess with anything yourself. They have a status LED, ramp up voltage feature to simulate the original, internal overload circuit breaker, plus over-voltage protection if it becomes ungrounded. You can't beat it. BTW, an old analog Simpson 260 or similar is the best to view that type of device. I did have a '70 Dodge truck with a fuel gauge regulator.
I have had a couple dash smoke shows over the years. I got to experience that fancy voltage limiter with the status LED here at Rocket. That’s a very nice piece. I generally make them with the digital limiter like radio shack sold. I do believe I mentioned the ground strap in this video.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Yeah, you did, it was a great explanation. I've had a lot that worked without that strap. I think they grounded on the top of the ring to the tank and the tank grounded through the straps to the body. When they made contact.
I used a bunch of the homemade ones in the '90's too. The only 2 downsides, really only one is big, is that it one doesn't give a big initial voltage surge like the mechanical thermal strip and points to move the gauge needle fast at key-on. The 2nd is that IF the regulator ever becomes ungrounded for some reason it's going to apply full battery voltage at the output pin. I've never had that happen but it is a possibility if the semiconductor becomes ungrounded.
What’s the part number for that voltage limiter? I have a 1969 Dodge Dart with a standard dash that I’m fixing up.
www.digikey.com/short/21z2bd33 this is the modern solid state voltage limiter that I use to replace the original part. It takes some soldering, but it’s not too hard a job. I have heard recently that there is a pre-made plug in solid state regulator available. I imagine you could find that one with some google-fu if you prefer to save some time.
When you replace the voltage limiter do you pull the dash cluster out or just somehow climb up under the dash? Thank you!
I know we talked about this in the live chat, but for posterity I’ll answer here - it varies by body and dash style. On the rallye E body setup you’ve got, I am fairly sure you need to pull the cluster. On other clusters where the limiter simply slides in, it is often possible. There will probably be stuff in the way, and it will probably be annoying. On some models, it is blocked by the column support, and there’s no way around pulling the cluster.
@@DeadDodgeGarage thanks for sharing tour knowledge with all of us👊
Could you make a video on the wireing for a rally dash ? Thankyou
The fuel guage in my old truck has never worked, but fortunately has a back up guage, aka trip odometer - I zero it at fillup and when it gets to 300 you need to refill it
Holy cow I’ve looked everywhere for a video explaining this. Driving my 65 Coronet down the highway (8 years ago,yep) and smoke came up through the dash. Fuel gauge went down. That was that. Last year finally found a new gauge online for a discounted 180 dollars. Installed that one and POOF. Same thing. The little wire that’s wound behind the gauge burned up. Is there a way to fix those?
I haven’t worked on one of those specifically, but I’m sure it’s like the other earlier Mopars and it’s a three stud fuel gauge with the voltage regulator built in? It also powers the other gauges through its 5v output stud. I have fixed that before - clip that section inside the gauge, go to an external type - ideally electronic as I showed in the video - and wire the external regulator’s output wire to that output wire on the fuel gauge. If that’s confusing I apologize - I will have to find a test subject to show that fix. Basically the idea is, the regulator inside the gauge goes away and the new external one takes its place.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for the reply I really appreciate it. Yes it’s just like the Mopar’s with the three stud fuel gauge, this is above my level of expertise for sure lol. I will have to get a new gauge and then be very careful and make sure I get the right stuff before I ruin another one, Getting harder to find that’s for sure. Love your videos keep up the great content
I have a 71 duster rally dash with regulator built into fuel gauge works fine but I would like to upgrade to new style
A while back all of my gauges pegged to the right, then they didn’t work at all. Installing a new wiring harness and firewall regulator, which didn’t fix it, I got a limiter from orielys and all it did was fluctuate back and forth. Thankfully I hadn’t fried my gauges. Did some research and ended up buying a solid state limiter for $60.
Here’s a video explaining how to bypass the fuel gauge component by either breaking the internal on the fuel gauge, or using heat shrink. I’ve got a 64 barracuda so this panel is a 64.. but the innards should be the same on a fuel gauge.
ruclips.net/video/MmkED8Mjm-k/видео.htmlsi=RnqdnuaVwCD980v-
@@campsmoky thank you!!!!! I appreciate the reply and the link!!!
Dealing with this in my 68 dart. Instrument voltage regulator is bad. Is there an easy way to get the panel out, or is it possible to replace it from behind without removing it?
You can remove some of them with it in place. I can’t recall if that is possible with that 67-71 dash layout or not. Pulling the panel is very annoying, and I can’t say I’ve ever found an easy way. If you have to do that, unplug the battery, lower the steering column slightly, remove the screws and say a prayer. Just remember, if the regulator failed in the ‘closed’ position the gauges could’ve burned up too. Wise to test the gauges if you’re going to pull the cluster.
I was able to go behind the dash with it installed and put in the new regulator. I’m guessing you’re right and it stuck in the closed position and burned out the gauges because they don’t work so it looks like I’ll be pulling the cluster to replace the gauges
@@Suddenlyits1960 Dang it. Yeah, unfortunately that's very common. It happened to me in my '66 Barracuda in the McDonalds drive thru once. The smoke was very obvious.. By that time it was too late. We replaced the gauge many years later and it worked again. I should add, you could have other issues in the circuit - there is a fuse that powers that regulator, so you might want to verify that you are getting power through it.
If my tach fuel gauge and speedo don’t work, but water temp will go to hot what do you think it is?
You have all kinds of problems. The speedo and tach are both completely different than fuel/temp and are unrelated issues. Speedo, the cable or speedo itself could be bad - or you have a speedo drive gear issue in the transmission. I don’t know what year this car is, but early tachs run on a separate module that dies. Later tachs have the control board built in, and they still die. It could also be disconnected from the coil. It could also be unhooked from the fuse box and has no power. Fuel gauge could be a bad gauge, a bad sending unit or sunk float, a bad gauge cluster circuit board, a bad cluster to harness connecting pin, a missing sending unit ground strap, or a wiring problem. Usually it’s one of those first two. Your temp gauge pegging to hot likely means that the voltage limiter on the back of the gauges is bad (it also runs the fuel gauge,) and if you don’t remove it or disconnect the wiring to the cluster, your temp gauge will let the smoke out in short order, and you’ll be shopping for a new one.
Forgot to mention the four wheel independent suspension. Same as when released in 1977. Holding hydraulic power steering on full lock is known as driver error & is mentioned in the owners manual as a do not do. The noise is the same on all hydraulic power steering cars.
This comment is about the LADA NIVA video I watched in the saved video not the MOPAR FUEL GAUGE. Thanks RUclips.
Ahhh, a Lada! Luxury.
My temp guage works but not my fuel guage. Where do I start? Guage or sending unit?
Sending unit is definitely most likely. Circuit problems are possible elsewhere as well. If you do the test I show in the video and temporarily ground the fuel sending unit wire at the tank, you’ll find out pretty quickly which it is.
Your video is great, thank you. However, you mentioned voltage limiter and later on your video you called it a regulator. Please help.
It limits, it regulates… sounds like you got it.
what do you check when none of your guages work?
None? Like, none none? In a classic Mopar? The speedometer is run by a cable, so unless that’s broken or unhooked you should have that. Unless your amp gauge has been bypassed, it has to work or the car won’t run. Oil, temperature, and fuel gauges are run by the little voltage limiter that I describe in this video. If just those are dead, the limiter is your first place to go. Unfortunately, sometimes when the limiters die, they burn up the gauges with them. This is where going through all of the tests I describe in the video comes in - to point you in the right direction.
@@DeadDodgeGarage yep, nobody's home at all. No lights, nothing. I just bought the car so I'm sure the previous owner tried to do it himself and bypass stuff. 🙄🤷🏻♂️
@@DeadDodgeGarage I do, however have head, tail, and break lights.
Digi-Key and Mouser have a couple billion electronic components. Each. Think of Radio Shack consuming all the electronics steroids ever produced. For lunch. You could think of Allied Radio, but Radio Shack swallowed them about 1969. I miss Allied.
Yes, I think I’ve ordered from both of those places over the years. I would rather pay more to buy what I need in person when I need it - like I could at Radio Shack 🥲
Me too. For years I’d be in the back perusing the racks of cheap resistors, wondering how the hell Tandy Corp (they took over the brand) was still alive.
Mine works.....for now.
Dodge should have kept that front end instead of the hideous chicken beak that followed shortly. It ruined the looks of the car
I like those. I kinda like all of them really. Well ok I don’t like 75-76. But I like 73-74. I had a ‘73 in my life for many years.