RESIN FAILS: What causes partial support fails and how to fix it.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Recording a quick video on a common issue I see around the various Facebook resin 3d print groups, and I figured I could offer some pointers on what usually triggers this issue and potential fixes on how to solve it
Amerilabs Town Test: www.thingivers...
XP2 Validator Resin Exposure Test: github.com/Pho...
My facebook: hirocreations
My Instagram: yasutano
My Twitter: yasutano
My miniatures shop: www.liquidarti...
My miniatures etsy: www.etsy.com/s...
My preferred resin: www.ministryof...
Turn on the Closed Captions for this video. You will not be disappointed.
Thanks so much for this! I decided to try heating my resin a bit before printing this time around, as I had a full plate failure last night that really bummed me out. (Also replaced the super cloudy and scratched screen since I didn't know how to take care of it before today)
realy helped thank you
I dont have uv light yet, i wanna know how log should i put it under sunlight (i live in tropical country and most of the time is sunny here)
Is there an exposure upper limit?
Like 4 seconds?
Could it be also a possibility when you run low on resin?
I’ve noticed when I’m printing with a full vat my prints are more consistent.
When it is below half than it seems to struggle.
Does that mean it needs to be warmer in the room or longer exposure time?
😊 thank you
That could even be a bubble issue. A full vat that keeps things fully submerged doesn't allow air in until it is likely smaller less air catching parts of things like minis.
Starting with a low level in the vat quickly has air trying to whoosh past the starts of minis, which is more force and more possibility to erode thin supports.
Having some burn in layers and rafts helps get that temp up early, so I stick with at least 4 layers on my machine to get that temp up before thin supports start being created.
Hey y’all. Find your Kia petite.
of all the printer pros on the internet I have never found a channel that has helped me remotely as much as your channel. thanks man u saved me a lot of grief and money and time.
Glad I could help!
To add to the mix of tips, I suggest for this specific problem that you lower your liftoff speed, it helps to reduce stress on the curing layer when it's ripped off the fep, less chance it will stick to the fep instead of the support that's being printed(on the fine support tips) or the piece of the model that's contacting the support(which is what usually fails, as a big chunk of model is attached to a fine support tip and it falls off)
I am aware this tip is a year old, but just wanted to say thank you so much! I kept having miniatures stick to the FEP sheet, and your tip stopped that dead in its tracks.
@@subject153 I'm still around, resin printing hasn't changed in a while, and won't likely change in the future, at least the in the printing mechanic part. Glad it helped you
@@lordfreezer9550 how low would you suggest going?
@@nathanngai3913 can't say a specific number, take your machine/slicer default liftoff and lower it 10-20mm, the printing time increase is negligible specially in the newer 1.5-2s exposure machines
Ok. I had been having this problem here just a few weeks ago. It started happening out of nowhere. My prints had always been printing very good. I was using Lychee at the time. All of a sudden, after upgrading to Lychee PRO a few weeks ago during a sale. I started having these failures that you are talking about. I tried all kinds of things. Didn't seem to help. So then I tried slicing these files in Chitubox. Bingo. Problems gone. So to make sure, I took the same file and sliced it in Lychee and Chitubox, using the same settings for my machine. The Lychee file came out with this failure you speak of, but the Chitubox sliced file came out perfect. I tried it more than once. Same result. Now. A couple of questions. What would be the difference, since I used the same file and same slicing settings on the same machine? Also, is there something that changed in Lychee that I am not aware of, and causing this problem myself?
Have you considered testing different types of feps? I've seen that it can make a big difference in terms of peeling forces, because some better feps are much less adhesive and this leads to less peeling forces on each layer. Which actually means that we're having reduced load on each individual support.
I absolutely love the no BS approach of your channel. No other channel has such a wealth of useful info.
There's like a whole minute of preamble before he gets to the answer
Such a good tutorial !
Great video, the temperature thing is something I hadn't considered, been having some weird print issues all of a sudden but its due to the winter ending and my furnace not kicking in as much so the base temperature of the room in the basement where I resin print is hovering about 17 or 18 deg C.
Such a great video as it goes over the basic issues that people starting out may face and quick fixes to solve said issues
Thank you for including Celsius as I'm usually turning videos off checking normal temperature whole world is using and not coming back as it's 5 seconds for you and I shouldn't be required doing anything while watching
idk its been mentioned but another thing to would be to check the printing settings for the resin that you use along side the machine your using as well. one resin type might have a different printing settings then another on different machines
"Yasu", that's a beautiful Mexican name!............no homo! LOL!
This is the video I've been looking for!
What caused the support failure seen at 1:19 where the supports cut off and end up short? I've got my temperature set at 22°c, my lift speed at 80mm/min and callibrated my exposure to 2.3s but still getting this error
hi hiro ,, i see this video and it is really help. currently i am in big trouble as my whole print shifts from the base and i am unable to resolve it.. can you please help me out... pls i will share you some pictures for better understanding
My print started to fail like this after a year. I folllow evert tutrial, change fep, exposure, constant releveling. Finalu infind out, it was the usb key given with the printer(eleegoo mars 3) who has a problem, tried with anather and all my print are fine again...
Thanks Hiro, you're a master!
Informative. Very helpful. You're a awesome
Hi Can you check my latest shorts video to see my resin print fail, I am using the same settings as I did in previous prints and have the printer build plate leveled fine as it's got great adhesion and printed most of the print fine up until later into the print it's failed.
i might be a bit late to the video, but what can i change when some of them print fine, but then others print with these problems? (all the same supports on the same plate)
I had this problem a lot and I moved my printed from the garage to another ventilated room. It fixed the problem. It was because of the low temperatures of the garage during winter time, which cause a lot of problems.
Very vagues advices. No much about what to actually do.
Hmmm my modell dispeared completely. Just supports was left 🙈
Fascinating video but the science is not quite right. in exothermic reactions, heat is generated. Unless the room you are printing in is really cold or the resin is really cold, by the time you are getting to the end of the supports there is a good chance that the resin has heated up to the right temperature.
i just got those pancake knees, will try that
Great video! I am just getting into resin printing and changed my FEP and switched to a new brand of resin at the same time and started having issues. I completely identify with the message of change one variable at a time! Thanks new sub.
Great video. I’m at the point where I wish there was a service center or something I could go to just so somebody could walk me through the process. Nothing beats hands-on personalized instructions. Even when I used a pre-supported model I get problems. My house has definitely been kept too cold though.
hello hero! You are incredible man, thanks to your advice I have improved my resin impressions, thank you very much !!, but I still have a problem during the process I can hear how the piece forces to detach from the FEP, how can I avoid that?
sorry for my english is not my native language
You may not be able to eliminate that, but things that help are using the better nfep and slowing your lifting speed (which also helps fep longevity).
Yasu, your video is ending, and I just want you to know that the "Mexican" remark was a joke! LOL! Obviously you're Irish! LOL! Nah, just kidding bro, I know you're Japanese! God bless and thanks for the vid!
my raft and supports print perfect but my model is always stuck to build plate. Anyone ever have this issue, it makes no sense to me. i'm using latest version of chitubox. I've re oriented my piece at different angles, i've tried heavy supports and medium and a mix of all 3. My raft has no problem sticking to build plate all my suuports print like its holding the model but the model is always not there and stuck to build plate. I've attemped 4 different times. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Just got a New Saturn S Resin printer. I'm in my basement and its 68f here and using water washable Elegoo resin. My prints are failing halfway just when the struts are connecting to the model. (base level prints with no struts print great) I have an electric heater running but i'm thinking the resin is still too cold? I increased my lift and retract speeds to 300mm and exposure time to 3.5. Any thoughts/suggestions?
I think cold resin is my issue right now. The settings I had for then are not working now. The heating/cooling & insulation sucks for the area of the house where I have my printers. Combine that with the winter cold and high winds we get here in central illinois it makes that area cold. I have to multiple space heaters to get rooms in that area up to temp. Was thinking of making some heated enclosures & heated cabinet fr the resin & printers. Easiest thing would be to just move them but I live in the other areas and don't want the fumes.
Any thoughts heated enclosures or cabinets for use with resin and resin printers?
Also wondering about heating solutions that don't require an in-depth diy heater project.
Reptile enthusiasts have a LOT of different warming solutions that often can be dialed to fairly exact standards. Pads, rocks, standard light bulg heat emitters (not infrared bulbs, but those as well),
My house is about a hundred years old, so kinda chilly in my office where my printers live. I preheat the resin either by sitting the bottle in a sink full of hot water, just enough so the bottle doesn't float, or put a sheet of aluminum foil in my fdm printer and turn on the bed, then sit the vat of resin in there for a few minutes. Unless it's stupid cold, the resin should stay warm enough during your print since it's making its own heat.
Super simple ... Super helpful ... What more can you want in a RUclips video! 👌🏻
Hey guys, I’m new to printing and I tried the resin settings test models a bunch and they are all coming out the same. I would say they are always like 95% correct (no mess ups and only like 1 pin/hole missing) and it doesn’t matter what exposure time I put in. 1 second looks the same as 3 seconds. My printer is supposed to print fast (creality halot mage). I haven’t tried printing anything yet because I know that my settings are off. How is 1 second the same outcome as 3 seconds? I’m asking for an opinion if I should change other settings.
Okay, my exposure time is way too high if anything, the resin temp is 78, and the supports are created and verified by Loot Studios, but I'm still getting this ribboning effect from support failure. Is there something else worth trying?
Thank You
bigotix
Great video. Just work on the auto focus. Almost the whole video was focused on the shelf in the background :)
Great video! I really liked your clearly spelled out troubleshooting steps and how to fix them. I ran into a problem where I was printing minis and the bases would all fail. I am coming from FDM so I didn't have to worry as much about temp so that was my problem.
Great video, I'm having a lot of trouble with my prints lately and idk what I'm doing wrong. It could be the temperature indeed as everything was ok this summer. Will try this troubleshoot!
Cold days and thick resin, thanks for confirming my suspicion.
Just learned an important fact, thank you very much. Been using an elegoo mars 3 for the last week and have consistantlly had failures. Just checked my heating and the temp is set to 19 degrees C. In England this is warm for me. I need to ramp up the temp or leave my resin on the radiator.. Thanks for this..
BEYOND HELPFUL THANK YOU. I'm running into this problem with presupported minis from Cults/Patreons. Gonna go back and make sure I have my exposure is totally dialed in, and support them myself if that's what needs to happen.
Hi Buddy have you had much to do with Phenom L supports I just cant get it right base layer is great but then the supports shear of and the model fails and ends up on the FEP film
I tried cleaning under the vat of my Saturn 2 and now it's smudged, any ideas?
Ok, thats it. You convinced me. I am gonna order a new mainboard and a mono refit LCD for my Photon.
Im having a issue where my supports print great but the actual print doesnt even show up. I think it has to do with contact depth. Thank you so much
thanks great help here, I wonder if there is a heating element I can use to keep my resin warm since I keep it in the garage (I'm sure I'm not the only one). thanks again
Γεια σου :)
absolute OG
high quality stuff here!
Also shake the bottle of resin for about 2 minutes before pouring.
Did you print the nuke cola bot?
Yup, I got a build video for that armor here: ruclips.net/video/hC5UvITBfP0/видео.html&t=
Thank you for making this video.
Nice video
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing buddy 👍
Great video. Thanks
Great video, thank you for the advice!
What app do you use to test your fep sheet tension thanks
This is a very helpful video.
Great video my good man.
I am actually having this issue and have been for a while.... I was using siraya tech blue resin I was given. I didn't know the resin was old which can also make a difference. I switched to Anycubic Grey resin and I've leveled and releveled my build plate. I've replaced the release film and I've dialed in my exposure settings and made sure the resin was around 80 F and I am still getting this issue. I am now going into the support settings to try and see if maybe it is the contact depth and diameter.
If its a sticking to the plate issue, use a small dab of 3 in 1 lubricate on the Vat screen. It will help keep the resin sticking to the vat instead of the plate. Also rough up the plate a bit with 120 grit sandpaper.
That power armor is siiiiiiiiiiick
Waiting for the next vid!
I have a problem similar to this but it seems like at about layer 5 or 6 there's no exposure? But then after it does pick up cause it leaves a slug of resin in the bottom of the printer. Especially in the center of the print. It's really weird.
Check your cable connections to the screen. Most likely you, have a ribbon cable that is poorly connected. Could also be a loose power connection to the uv array.
If it's neither of those, then there is either a bad chip or bad solder somewhere or software glitch.
thanks a lot
Happy to help :)
What does over exposure do? Will it make the print have a lower resolution and loss detail?
Sort of. How much depends on the resin and amount of over exposure. Transparent resins tend to bleed more, while resins with pigment particles tend to bleed less (depending on how they absorb uv).
For the best visualization, use photoshop or gimp and use the intelligent selector tool to make a selection that follows color edges. Choose something with jaggies and bites and corners. Now use the selection menu or right click and choose expand/grow selection by 1 pixel. Notice how everything grew just a tiny bit. Keep doing this and you will notice things tend to get rounded, so a sharp edge will have a tiny radius instead (eventually almost becoming a circle), bites and valleys have both the bottom and the sides expand so they get smaller and shallower.
On the model those things will happen (entirely to the degree of overexposure), deep details will be slightly shallower, and because things bleed in all directions (diffraction), the closer the gaps close up deep details and shallow subtle details will no longer have crisp edges to pop, so they will nearly disappear.
Note that this effect always happens a tiny bit, even at good exposure settings. But it is miniscule and fills in the tiny gaps between pixels. The more and smaller the dots, the smoother that bleed is too, which is part of why tighter higher-resolution screens tend to be substantially better at tiny crisp detail.
Hi Yasu I just got a Anycubic Mino 4K and I did the exposure test and it turned out great but I now have 6 failed prints with either partly formed models or it’s just the supports showing a d a small blob on the FEP. I increased the lift height to 7.5 mm but have same results.
Could you recommend a remedy of my issue? Thanks in advance.
All the pro's I have watched on youtube say exposure tests are a great place to start, but then you go by the actual models you print. Change your settings so the models you print don't fail and don't lose all their detail and quit worrying about "but the exposure test model..."
Also try slowing your lifting speed. It could be under exposure, but it could also be that it is breaking off.
Also make sure your lifting heights are enough. If the model doesn't come completely loose, it can overexpose and form super bonded layers to the fep. Then it will rather break the support connections than release.
My personal experience was that I could print with as low as 7 seconds on 1 exposure test before seeing flaws. And I could print models I specifically supported myself. By every pre-supported model failed (raft and supports printed fine but the models would detach early in the prints) until I increased exposure to 10s.
*I tested halving my lifting speeds, and it didn't help, so that pointed to an exposure problem.
Also worth mentioning, if your fep is streched out/loose or way too stiff, it could cause this problem.
To release from the active layer, it needs to be like a drum, tight but a bit springy. As the build plate lifts, the fep needs to flex just a little, so it wants to peel the edges and slowly delaminate the layer from the fep.
Think of it like peeling a piece of tape up:
*too fast and the tape (model) may just break (and it will be hard on your fep/may stretch/dent/tear that too).
*don't pull up enough and it won't release, just flex the fep a little. You need enough height for that peel to propagate and fully separate the model from the fep.
*pulling too slow is _no problem_ other than time loss: it's easier on the drum, but peeling forces stay low, so you will need a lot more time and possibly a little more lifting height, but gain safety for both tape (model) and drum (fep)
I have the same printer and issue. If its a sticking to the plate issue, rub gently a small dab of 3 in 1 lubricate on the Vat screen. It will help keep the resin sticking to the vat instead of the plate. Also rough up the plate a bit with 120 grit sandpaper. Worked for me.
Love your videos!!!
i am having problem with sudden suports failures like in 1:20, what is the couse?
Did you solve it?
@@jaksoniki partly yes - add more strongrt suports, increase cure time, decrease lift speed
Yes please
Nice~
I'm really not having issues with support failure but more the resin curls after cleaning and UV light curing. I model N scale wagons and find that the axle boxes sides tend to bend slightly to the centre of the wagon which makes the wheels bind or that the deck curls rather than staying flat - any thoughts guys
I've had the same. I think it's over curing it, or curing it too much on one side at a time. Have you tried curing in water? Gives a more even cure and takes less time
@@chazzer666 No I have - how long do you leave it in water curing with UV light or sunlight
@@spiritofprogress1937 I'm still trying to work out the best curing times. I think I was over curing before so now I do about 5 mins for large ish pieces in water with a nail UV light. Using Anycubic water washable resin
I'm so glad to find an admission of this problem so specifically. After my second time printing geckos from One Page Rules, some tails and legs have done this strange pooling or splitting thing. The first think I did was try the print on a hot day to eliminate temperature. Now I know the other things to consider. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge Hiro ^_^
Really helpful. Thanks a lot! I recieved my resin and immediately tried to print with it after it had sat outside in the cold. I think that is likely why my prints have been failing. I'll let it warm up inside for a while.
I'm having print fails randomly on my print.
I believe it's the temp. How do you keep resin heated?
I can heat it up, but in the vat it cools back down.
If possible try to heat the area that the printer is in aswell. We have just had temps drop to 9c here, I place the build plate and resin in front of a space heater or hair dryer to warm them up before printing and it really helps.
@@southaussielad2496 LOL I ended up getting a desk space heater and just heat the area and using the 3 in 1 PTFE lubricant and put a drop on the FEP, smear it all over, then wipe up the tiny bit of excess. Both help keep the viscosity down on the resin and the layer of lubricant helps keep the hardend resin from sticking to the Fep. Thanks though!
Good video. Resin temp is often forgotten, this is a good reminder.
Having that said, why is it that every softly spoken, analytical channel has an obnoxiously loud outro? Like the difference between the content and the outro volume is just staggering.
Ha I can't speak for other channels but my issue with the audio in my older videos is that I was working with crappy video and sound equipment (I spend it all on resin and printers) and the fact I know absolutely nothing about video editing.
Definitely something I am working to improve when I get back to making new videos after being busy growing a commercial print farm for well over a year.