Why You Shouldn't Hollow Resin 3D Prints
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- How to Save Resin (and MONEY) by Hollowing Your 3D Prints - • Why You SHOULD Hollow ...
Hollowing resin 3D prints can save you a lot of resin and money, but it can also end in disaster. Hollow prints are highly susceptible to leaking resin which could lead to extensive damage to whatever gets caught in the crossfire.
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This has never been a problem for me ever.
Most people seem to not understand how to hollow and add holes. First Your holes should be at opposite ends of the model usually at the highest and lowest points of the model. Next use large holes. Don't worry about the hole being on the visible part since you can fix that easily with a cap. Both Lychee and chitu have a way to save the hole as a cap/plug which will hide the hole
I run a 3D printing business and we have a very thorough cleaning regiment regarding hollowed resin prints. #1 be sure to have 2 drain holes 7mm wide, I will explain later why they should 7mm later. #2 rinse the inside with IPA or Water if its water washable, #3 after rinsing, almost fill the inside of the model with IPA or (water with water washable) plug the holes with your gloved fingers and shake it vigorously, drain and repeat that process 3 - 4 times. If you using water washable on the last shake spray in little IPA. #4 let the part dry for 24hrs #5 cure the part and lastly #7 the most IMPORTANT step which brings me to those 7mm wide holes, insert 395nm - 405nm UV LED wires, the LED bulk is 6mm wide which allows you to use a bulb on a wire attached to a 12v battery and fully cure the inside. Move the UV LED light around inside different areas and let it cure for 5 mins each time. Oh and one last thing, if possible leave a small drain hole 1mm is fine unplugged. If you plug a hollowed print even with it really cleaned and cured there is always a chance you missed a spot and its the gases that cause the model to split.
Good info! Thanks for sharing your experience!
Great idea on using a single UV LED inside the hollowed out print. I'll have to keep that in mind and get myself a few.
more holes are always better.. and also ive found using blockers helps on hollowed figures to stop from having resin traps. and running uv tools after slice will show you if you have any trapped resin in the model. great video dude!
what is blocker? also what is UV tools after slice?
Sounds like you just need to learn how to clean prints better. I've hollowed every one of my prints with no problems.
On multi part builds you can put sizable holes in the joining areas, same for parts with a base or a bottom side that won't be seen. Just stick the biggest hole you can there even if its not doing anything during the print. That'll make cleaning and draining the prints easier. And if there is a reservoir somewhere like in this case the house where joints are and a hole in the base means it can drain out the bottom rather than through seams.
It also makes it easier to sure the interiorwith a fiber or whatever tool you like.
Can you just cure on a cure machine like anycubics for longer and still cure fully through?
One of my pals hollow minis with 0.8 wall thickness... It's don't get well but it's still saying that everything needs to be hollowed. 😂
Just a helpful tips for the comment section. When placing drain holes you need atleast 2 and one hole needs to be able for you to place it a lower elevation that other.(when submerging it in ipa) This is so the Ipa can flow properly through.
Same principle of if your airing out your house. Opening 2 windows rate next to each other isn't going to ventilate as well as Opening one on the other side of the house.
All the risk in this video are definitely still a risk.😂
Thanks for the tips!
I print large hollowed things rarely, but when i do, after rinsing, i use a 405nm UV LED light that I let sit inside the model for a few hours. It does mean at least one hole has to be a little over 5mm large, since that's the size of the LED I found on amazon.
Cable looks good. Have you considered drilling holes in him to clean him out? You could fill the holes later.
Use a syringe to squirt alcohol into the cavity, shake, drain, repeat.
Insert a UV led into the cavity and cure.
It's not hard.
This was interesting, thank you. Right before this video I watched one that talks about why you should put holes in the model. He had a fix for internal resin. Holes were 10mm and he made an array of LEDs that he could put up into the model. If I ever try and use my resin printer (2 year old new printer) I'll try both. Thank you again for the informational video.
This is less a "why you shouldn't hollow your prints" and more a "why you should get an ultrasonic cleaner instead of the wash/cure stations" lol.
whats an ultrasonic cleaner
I always add holes to prevent suction cups, and that allows resin out, and IPA in to clean it.
I see no reason why not to hollow out prints as it cuts the costs considerably.
the first print i hollowed i just did it without looking at any tutorial and did not create any hole, it printed fine and it's been 4 months built and painted, i just bought a drill tool to make sure it will not explode in the future
i have been hollowing even 32mm infantry since then, using multiple holes around the figure in hard to see spots and even on the top of the head, i let them drain inside the printer for 2 days and then again upside down another 2 before cleaning, had no issue at all, holes on the visible surfaces get covered with glue and the ones on the bottom are just lef open, sometimes i even hollow the feet/legs and then print special bases that will snap inside them to make the mini even more solid when used on the table
thx for this comment, im just starting resin and i was thinking about this. Great minds think alike, i shall try it
@@zac2877 only thing that failed was when i tried to use water and cure the minis inside, i saw a video where they did that to cure the inside. For some reason they were the only prints where some infantry cracked from the inside. I am also now using a mix of resin that makes model less rigid
In addition to making drain holes, you can use smaller holes to make pinning some parts easier later if that's your plan. On a similar note, you can also add room for magnets on models before you print them, reducing drilling later.
Hollowing I wouldn't say is always mandatory, but there's definitely more pros than cons in saving material and lightening a print while on the bed. Unfortunately, not all figures hollow well, but for the most part, careful slicing and checking typical problem areas like heads and arms are easy to do. Something almost universal when setting wall thickness to 'printable but light' like 3mm, it will enclose body parts that naturally narrow like head to neck or leg to foot beneath a certain size figure. You can definitely accidentally enclose a hollowed area just using too much wall thickness but alleviate problem spots by adding an internal hole/drainage in the slicer. I only had one model leak early on until I went through them layer by layer with a studious eye and learned the above.
Can we fill the sculpture with something like epoxy clay, fiber glass or resin? to make it stronger ?
Im new to 3d printing, but from what i know and what ive been able to read up on. Smaller prints and busts are better off being solid. Larger prints are better to hollow out. However you would need at least two holes. One to let air in on one side and one to let the resin out on the other. The problem is most conventional washes seem to only agitate the alchohol on the out side and not the inside of the print. Curing under a UV light also has the same problem of not enough light going into the print to cure the inside properly.
Going of some of my action figure collection. It would make more sense to cut the print model in half to expose the inside while its printing. Then the finished print can be properly cleaned and cured. This would work on larger cavities to save resin and reduce its weight. Smaller parts can be printed as a solid (for durability) and then attatched.
The problems are that both halves may need to be printed thicker or with a inner frame/partial skeleton to realign and connect the two halves. This would add extra support for its mass but it may not make it completely hollow. Then there's an extra step of hiding the seam. In the end it will require more engineering on the model, more time to assemble and to produce everything.
You want to make sure you equalize the pressure inside the print when you're washing it, so enough IPA gets inside without leaving any air pockets inside. That usually means you want at least 2 holes, one you can hold above the IPA bath and one in it. This allows the IPA to push the air inside the hollow print out through one of the holes. If you poke a hole in the bottom of a soda bottle it'll drain and fill faster because the pressure inside the bottle equalizes and there's no back pressure blocking the flow of the soda. It's the same concept. You can also swirl your print with some IPA inside to get good cleaning coverage, just wear eye protection.
🤯
I figure an extra dollar or two of resin is worth it to have a nice solid figure. I'd only hollow it if it was something huge and thick. But for my 4 to 5 inch tall figures, I just do them solid.
Sorry that’s crazy I been using syringe to push alcohol inside I let them dry for hours before curing plus in the software I make sure I put holes and make sure I don’t see pockets
I use water washable resin which makes the cleaning process a lot easier which in turn prevents uncured resin getting trapped.
Yup. Thanks for the info. I noticed a DnD mini I made had a little resin leak. And a big Alexander Jar from elden ring I bought from a seller on etsy majorly leaked and sadly will now have to toss out. I thought it was just a smidge hole and left it in the sun, then it BURST with resin on my outdoor table. Had it for many months before seeing this issue
For my N scale details that I print on my Mars 3, most don't need hollowing as they are so tiny, so I'm somewhat lucky. I have had to hollow out larger items such as my tugboat. However having to put holes in and deal with suction cup issues is annoying. I use Lychee Slicer which has good suction cup detection and allows you to place holes at different sizes. But it is an extra step. As well as the issues with cleaning thoroughly as you mentioned. I usually check to see how much resin Lychee estimates with and without hollowing to make a decision on whether or not to hollow. If it's just a few grams, I don't bother with hollowing.
But I have a Flashforge Adventurer 5M arriving tomorrow. That will be used for larger models that I'd have to hollow if I print it on my resin printer. Watching all your videos on that printer to get ready for its arrival.
I always use water washable resin. All of my figures are hollow, some over a year old, still displayed nicely. Water washable makes it really easy to clean. I just fill up a tub of soapy hot water, let the part fill, shake it around, drain, repeat a couple times, then patch the holes with resin.
If you have pockets of resin on the inside then either the model is bad or you're bad at slicing.
But then again, Waterwashable resin is very prone to shatter/crack when its hollowed and its even more brittle with hole inside
@@pitbullash I've notice that hole warps and blowouts only happen when a hole is on a big flat surface, like the bottom of a base. Lately I've been using water washable ABS-like and it's been great. I've also started curing the inside with uv LEDs.
Hollow prints are best with big, smooth, interiors, and large holes or open bottoms you can easily see into and poke around a toothbrush or cotton swab or such. Slicer generated hollowing can, on any more complex shaped model, easily cause problems. with little pockets and other issues forming.
There are a few a videos on how to cure the hollowed model. They were using fiber optic cable with a UV torch light to cure the interior of the hollowed model.
I have found that using an air hose with a basketball needle attachment works well for getting any left over resin or IPA out of a hollowed model.
I would pour in some IPA and give it a thorough shaking. Then plop in a probe type uv led light and cure it. No problems.
You need holes for draining and holes for breathing. It facilitates ease of passage, avoiding suction forces and minimizing pooling when done properly. Voids from a poorly designed model is on the modeler, so it's best to check your prints by the layer to make sure those don't exist. Difficulty in removing those vary and I'll spare you all a wall of text.
Assuming the model is large enough, I just leave large holes where I can to get a curing light inside. Not perfect, and doesn't work for every model, but so far I have had no leaks either. Curing the inside isn't impossible, just need the right equipment.
I've had hollow resin prints bulge after a while, due to uncured resin on the inside. I find that if you don't hollow them they can be too heavy and stretch in the z axis. I've found that using an ultrasonic cleaner can get all the uncured stuff out of the inside.
hollow 3d prints are so fragile and break too easy. That's nearly a betrayal to customers- my opinion. I bought a scorpion and sub zero model which weight each 1kg. price is high but worth it.
this hollow resin feels like fragile plastic and falls apart so fast! NEVER AGAIN!
Get a wash and cure station ive been using one for. 2 years with great success. Happy creating..........
The more holes the better, than when setting your print on the slicer always check your print, if you are using lychee it will show you where you will have a problem with your print. Hollowing your print saves resin and wear on your FEP. you have to really wash your print. Not just dunk it in alcohol. He is not washing and curing his prints proper. The inside of his print is not cured, this will cause the resin to sweat, Always use large holes on your print.
Ah, that stinks. Gotta watch for resin getting trapped. Clean those prints like 3 times, more holes. Also, longer post curing will actual help this as it can cure more of the trapped material.
As long as I add holes in correct area an take a day for them to properly drain out I'm fine.
very nice Video I am dealing with similar
I hallowed one of my first prints but didn’t put a drain hole, the back of the figure exploded.
One thing I've yet to find discussed is if printing medium to large models as one piece or multiple pieces solid, how does the resin ever fully cure deep internally? I am aware that the process of printing partially cures the resin and is no longer a liquid. If the resin requires a long post curing time to fully cure the outer 1 or 2 mm, then how does the inner soft partially cured rsein ever fully cure? Even though there isn't liquid resin internally, will it off gas or create pressure cracking or deforming the model?
Hmm, I have 5 FDM printers and am occasionally resin-curious. I avoided buying something big this year but the 66 dollar monoprice (I’m sure it is horrible) made me give it a shot. I’ve only done function checks to see that the machine (appears) to work, but I’m really getting to wonder if the risks are worth dealing with (and I live in NJ, So the garage is off limits until the spring). (Yes, I did see your video on the heater and I know about the Uniformation printer, but it still seems to be a lot of hazard in exchange for a few more details. Anyway, Enjoy the holidays and don’t eat the resin colored snow!
You're right in that your safety should take priority over anything. I think safely working with resin comes down to your workflow and making sure you keep everything contained to a dedicated area. It's hard to beat the results though, especially with detailed figurines.
Multiple small UV lights to cure .l put into drainholes. .
youre gonna want some uv glasses when youre using the flashlight
Great video, appreciate the advice.
A larger hole for the Popeye figure could've worked out a bit better. As for the Cable figure, the guy needed to be chopped in half before printing and then glued together afterwards, imo
The craft beer nerd in me was getting confused about why you would wash your prints with an IPA (India Pale Ale, a popular style of beer.)... then at about 3 minutes it popped "ohhhh isopropyl alcohol!"
😁 At least that would be a great excuse to buy more IPA. For science!
What are you thoughts on filament printers over resin printers?
I like filament printers. I use mine for things like bases for my figures, toys for the kids, household items, simple tools etc. I use resin primarily for detailed models. I don't think one is necessarily better than the other. It just depends on what I'm wanting to print.
@@FigureFeedback you wouldn’t use filament printers for models? Like for the Groot or the Tyrael?
Hollow, wash, drain, dry, apply glue in the right places…done
This is exactly why I made a video on how to cure your resin prints inside. HomemadeJam3D
You can fix your Cable by drilling a small hole and use what I do with mine. 😊
Why wouldn't you just teach how to hollow properly, instead of avoiding it.
I didn't avoid anything. In the first 30 seconds of the video, I specifically direct to another video I made that shows you how to hollow prints.
build a UV led light hook it up to a battery, put it on a stiff wire fish that led up the drain holes up and down and it will cure the model from the inside. here is an example video. ruclips.net/video/dqJSJJGyak4/видео.html
Thanks for the tip!
I was just wonding if this could be a viable solution!
I use water washable resin so I clean them with a good rinse then I set them inside a water tank lined with foil. The lid is a UV light so every inch gets blasted on them. Never had an issue with them cracking or ever leaking.
We both need more subscribers, I’m subbing now
Thank you! I like your paint jobs. You do great work!
I appreciate that bro!