Removing A BROKEN BOLT From Aluminum Head NO WELDER‼️
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
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You cut out all the important swear words that are needed to assist in extracting a bolt
No cap 😂😂😂
😆
The swear words serve as a lubricant. It’s an important part of the process
Alright, those bolts were brand new. A bit south of Boston I have to conduct dark rituals and magic just to find the head of the bolt in the rust.
Your lisp has me 😂😂😂😂
Good work brotha those broken bolts can be a nightmare
He has a wet voice. It's probably from head trauma, a bad infection, or an autoimmune disease.
I agree he makes a great narrator
The item he picked up when he said, “…drill a hole…”, is a center punch. It’s used to make an indentation in the center of the broken fastener with the pointed using a hammer on the blunt end. That indentation is where you place the drill bit. The point of the indentation is to keep the drill bit from “walking” across the smooth service of the broken fastener.
Yeah man CHARGE THAT CUSTOMER
Damn LS manifold bolts are notorious for breaking. Steel bolt thru cast manifolds into aluminum heads. I had 7 broken bolts on my manifolds!!!
Wow, lucky for you the extractor worked. I gave up on that process a long time ago though.
You proly aint doing it correct my guy!! You shade tree mechanic be havin me 🤔🤔👎
Same, I stopped using those extractors and switched to actual left-handed drill bits.
What do I do if I broke the back valve cover gasket lugs
Lol,I flew back when you jumped😂😂
Bi metallic probably caused it. We used antiseize on brakes and threads into aluminum. I use it on spark plugs on my Harley.
Agree! 👏👏💪💪
I made a similar comment, elsewhere on this thread, and I got a rather negative comment - AND not sure what the person is saying!
Do the threads get damaged? Ive seen people rethreading, is it necessary?
That was AWESOME.
The heat from friction helps breaking any rust loose as well
Good it worked. Many munch mo difficult !!
I've done a ton of these, but today was a first.2 bolts broken, 1 bolt was broken in two places. Took the manifold off, both were broke off proud of the head...sweet. This'll be easy. Thread the nuts on, weld a cap, backer out...first one backed out, breezy...second one backed out...uh...much quicker for some reason...oh great. It broke BELOW the face of the head too.
Filled with weld beads just above flush, held a nut in place with a pair of pliers, weld, weld, weld... Let it cool and backed it out. Took a few tries, but I've had way more success with welding em out than I have with easy outs or reverse drill bits.
We even have the Lisle drill templates at my shop, but I'd still rather weld em out than drill em out...especially if they're passenger side closest to the firewall. Good luck drilling straight there.
Just happent to yesterday but a usted a welder to removed
Mechanics 101
Weld a washer and a nut on there way faster and easier
Can u crack a head cuz of the heat?
Extractors are over-engineered with too wide of an error margin that get you in a worse situation most of the time.
$7 Harbor Freight reverse drill bit kit usually bites and unscrews broken studs with just the drill going at a slower speed in reverse. Make a good center punch, drill a smaller pilot hole then jump up a couple sizes- that larger size left hand drill will grab and get it. Corroded stud threads might make you use the bit that is almost as big as the stud but it will unthread the threads clean without stripping them.
👏👏💪💪
Just worked perfectly for me for a 20mm solenoid bolt lol
Is it worth pulling the head off to do this?
That ain’t nothing bro we do manifolds all the time I’ve drilled more studs then most people have taken nuts off of hahaha KRAL makes KAP brackets that you can use for the driverside rear hole since you can’t drill it
Wow, just Googled that, I never even knew that existed
That is a great innovation.
So if I have one broke below the surface do I try the extractors or do I try the left hand drill bits I’m in a spot I need to do head gaskets in my Tahoe and ik I got at least 2 broke ones and I’d like to have the stuff on deck to deal with that when the headers come off and the heads come out but I’m worried they’ll be below the head and I’m not sure what method to use in that case
them extractors won’t do a thing if you where up north
Lol oh snap I thought it was Big Ed in the video
Or...do it the right way. Call a professional bolt extrator dude get him to re do that and put hardend steel speed-certs in it and every manifold bolt hole on both heads so then the new headers will be held in more securely then relying on bolts threaded into week aluminum...then charge your customer more for the proper job...bam!
Could’ve upgraded them bolts to ARP.
How you got a shop with no welder
LMAO how do you not know what a left handed drill bit looks like. That's the extractor not a drillbit
I'm running the whole shop. Perhaps I moved a little fast... What's important is it got done successfully 💪🏾
I have that snap on kit it has extractors with the matching left hand bit for each one
Anytime you get out a broken bolt, I say you got lucky, cause it can go south fast
Guess this video isn't sponsored by Milwaukee. It's called tapping a bolt with a Helio coil. It broke because your employee used a metric socket or universal instead of SAE. Every real shop know to be extra careful with header bolts and they torch it first to ensure it coming out right. You employee got lazy and was in a weird angle because it was the last one on the firewall side.. he was trying to remove the bolts from on top and released the hangers first. Rookies
The one and only time this ever worked lol
Suggestion -
Use anti-seize compound, the same you would use on spark plug threads.
You are zero help. On my helps after you take the bolt out the first time then try to remove it again years later.
Done thousands of those...easy enough weld nut to the broken stud..easy peazy..out it comes
Don't always work out this easy 😢
I have set of bolt extractors just like those worn some out no problem replaced for for free plus I've got more than that drawer full or drawers full different sizes for working on semi's farm and tractors you name it 50yrs in this field my Dad owned and operated a Standard Oil Division American Oil Company gas service station from the late 30s early 40s 50s 60s 70s 80s 90s I was born into plus his our small farm RIP DAD BOB CALLAWAY
That's not a left handed drill bit. It's. A bolt extractor inserted into a hole drilled with a normal drill bit.
Easy Outs
LS head studs are probably the easiest to remove imo
You know you showed the extractor right not a left hand drill bit. There is kinda a big difference between a drill bit and an extractor.
Customer States" how the head gasket just going to go there was nothing wrong with it, I know my car" I know it doesn't really have anything to do with the video I just love when a customer says that to me. Y'all have a good day
Not to mention you can R&R both heads on a ls in less then 3 hours
I aint never taking my car to a mechanic who does the karate chop/dance-a-jig "charge the customer" hoo ha
We definitely meet again at that gigantic service station in the sky I miss think of you daily your loving son
Who’s civic hatch is that in the back ground
Instructions not clear: I used the word “f*ck and Go* Dammit” in the beginning and still no luck
Gotta hold your mouth right, then it'll work 😊
Can y’all do motorcycles
CHARGE THE CUSTOMER
Ok, somebody help me. What sort of drill bit is that? I can't get the pilot hole to start... STANDING BY
Love you gang
Got lucky . I thought he was gunna say broke off extractor into bolt.
Some how I have pulled all my header bolts TWICE, and have not broken a single one. Its a butt puckerer for sure
CHARGE THE CUSTOMER!😭Doing headers on my 5.7 Hemi thanks for the tips
Broke a bolt in my valve cover, doesnt seem to bad
Those are called EZ outs. Snap-on didn’t invent them. I was using them long enough they had them on the truck.
Coming from Wisconsin to get more automotive experience for my career. I'm thinking of moving to Nevada or Texas. Is it true that it's easier to work on cars than rusty shitbox we have up north?
You aren’t going to cover those holes while you drill and tap that? 😳🙄
Thats the same think i was thinking.
You're lucky because it came out like that 😂
😮
Those header bolts are usually a pain in the ass to get out and they typically never come out that easy u typically will have to weld a nut to it and try several times before it comes out smh
Broke because someone was a little INEXPERIENCED..... All they need is a LITTLE HEAT
I know as a FACT you my friend yelled bloody death at the moment you realized the bolt was coming out. Louder than no hammer slam. I know you made an ungodly noise, out of sheer excitement
I have a $450 matco extractor set and I just sit and laugh when people break a bolt.
Why not, would have had that out two minutes.
Savages, drilling without covering the intake holes 😂
Should use studs. Bad design
I already broke my smaller ones
Nice uniform...hahaha
Typical issues with chevy n ford. Corroded bolts
No sludge hammer thrown :(
No way man. The worst thing that can happen is you having to refabricate the headers because they hit the frame. Don't use a drill. Weld a washer and nut to remove that broken stud.
Could of used his feet to take that out. With all that space 😆✌🏻
Nope, just weld em out
OEM has that set for a 1,000.00 dollars less 🤣🤣🤣
? This makes zero sense. He is installing aftermarket headers. What does OEM have to do with anything?
Extractor bit set.
@@calebniederhofer6529 OEM does not just stand for original equipment manufactured, this commenter is talkin about a tool company called OEM
@@jasoninpersonam3664 How is that relevant to anything to do with the video?
Man you guys are the shat boy!!
I seen a couple shavings go into the head through the intake port. Next time cover up any openings
Yeah that’s one of my specialty is wielding out broken 5.4 and 4.6 bolts on ford y’all ain’t in no rust lol I’ll come turn out all your automotive work 55 a hour I do any and all mechanical work
Amateurs
Piss poor work. Every mechanic knows exhaust and manifold bolts are going to be a pain. Your part fitter didn’t and snapped a bolt. Typical rookie move
Are you aware of how many headers and work we do? I explained in the video, you are piss poor at not assuming.
but your the one that broke it why will u char jim for some u did
How many years of experience do you with cars?
Y’all know y’all ain’t suppose to use a drill at all everything suppose to be done by hand with an extractor
Why’s the snap on box have a Cornwell sticker in it?
You used a ezout they been around for years
Damn you couldn’t even put tape on them holes nothing like getting metal pieces in your motor
Y’all hiring? I stay in Houston
You still you snap-on tools. Some people will just never learn.
How's it feeling every time that truck pulls into your driveway your bank account dropped 10G! 😂
The fact you didn't tape that hole up before throwing metal shavings everywhere tells me all I need to know about the quality of your work?
" Careless garbage"
If you had a left handed bit you wouldn't need the ease out their bruda
Exactly. Just a good center punch and a $7 set of Harbor Freight left hand drill bits start with a smaller bit make a pilot hole jump up a couple sizes and run the drill in reverse at a slower speed and even if you have to get up to the largest drill bit it will usually bite and and unscrew the broken portion of the stud or Bolt. Extractors are over-engineered and too tedious. Sometimes torching and Welding tricks get you in tighter spaces than an angle drill can but left-hand Drilling gets it most of the time if you're experienced to know what not to do.
@@jasoninpersonam3664 yeah i kinda have a tiny bit of experience just a little lol
Could of used his feet to take that out. With all that space 😆✌🏻
😆