What Products Still Work After 1 YEAR? | 26 Different Products On My Lexus Durability Test
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- Let's take a look at how the waxes, sealants, and ceramic coatings are holding up after 1 year of being on my Lexus!
**PRODUCTS IN THIS VIDEO**
Koch-Chemie Spray Sealant S0.02 - bit.ly/2TDG0bO
AM Details AM Hybrid Sealant - bit.ly/3vCLaCB
Turtle Wax Ice Seal N Shine - bit.ly/3wwKoIl
TriNova Ceramic Spray Coating - amzn.to/3gK6eRQ
Adams Graphene UV Ceramic Spray Coating - amzn.to/3gA30BL
Gtechniq C2 v3 Liquid Crystal - bit.ly/3cJFhg9
Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Flex Wax - amzn.to/3iTxXlV
303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating - bit.ly/35qqUcA
Tec Choice TEC582 Ceramic Detail Spray - bit.ly/2Uavolh
Lithium Ceramic Slam - bit.ly/3vucXEU
Mothers CMX Ceramic Spray Coating - amzn.to/2SblGys
Sonax Ceramic Spray Coating - bit.ly/2UavhWT
Dr. Beasley's Nano LS-10 Multi Surface Ceramic Spray Coating - bit.ly/3gsW8WF
Optimum Opti-Seal - bit.ly/3pZmSBp
Turtle Wax Ceramic Graphene Paste Wax - amzn.to/3xt9WWT
Gyeon Q2 Wax - bit.ly/2SByD4I
Dr. Beasley's Nano Resin - bit.ly/2JW3bcV
Gyeon Mohs Q2 - bit.ly/3j4aJZR
Technicians Choice TEC580 Ceramic Coating - bit.ly/3lfx19V
AMMO REFLEX PRO ENAMEL COAT - bit.ly/35gQp0N
Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light - bit.ly/32td7Ru
CarPro UK 3.0 - bit.ly/3k9rJLK
Glassparency Graphene Coating
Gyeon Q2 Can Coat - bit.ly/2X0vayY
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#producttesting #detailing
Thank you everyone for watching and contributing to the comments. This test is probably the worst case scenario for these coatings. I park outside, I did not use any toppers and it was subjected to Chicago’s weather.
I know I could have used toppers and all these coatings would still look fantastic, but I wanted to see what one application would do with nothing but washes and minimal decontamination.
More testing coming soon, I love all your suggestions to make this test even better. THANK YOU!
I loved the testing, and can't wait for the prosumer versions, I hope you will do it the same way on them aswell, just to see how long the coatings last by themselves. We all know that they would last longer if decon washes were made every 3 months and topped up with maintenance products.
is there an iron removing shampoo?
@@dominictomasino5198 I don't think so, it would be crazy expensive...
carpro uk 3.0 all the way
@@Theseones iron x gel
As a mobile detailer, I couldn't fathom charging a customer an insane amount of money to apply one of these coatings, and having it fail within a year. Thank you for doing this test, it has really opened my eyes quite a bit.
I mean you do charge for the prep work that goes into it, especially depending on the condition of the vehicle before prep. Ceramic still needs to be maintained, more so if you live in areas with harsh weather or road conditions. But charge whatever you feel your work is worth and enjoy the process! :D
I totally agree bro. I spoke to a few different mobile companies a few months back before I decided to do it myself. I was hearing prices of $1000, $1500 for a polish and coating. I get there is prep work and labor but $1500 for a $100 bottle of coating and DA polishing is out of control. Especially when they're offering 3, 5, 7 year coatings. Even with maintenence there is no way. South Florida, on a non garage kept daily driver and they were trying to tell me 5 years. I did it myself and yeah it took some work but cost me about $200 to buy products I didn't already own. I keep my car very well kept. If I get 2 years, I'll be very happy.
@@thinkforyourself5672 The majority of the cost is the paint correction. Easy to claim taking a DA to an entire vehicles paint is easy, but doing it *well* is an entirely different story. In order to get the type finish a professional can put out you will easily spend 4-600 in proper machines, polishes, liquids, and pads. Plus the 100-200$ coating bottle. Then you have to take into account learning to properly use that equipment to get your desired results which is where most prideful diy peoples expectations will significantly drop, in order to prove they can complete the job. It’s also the liability of polishing someone else’s entire vehicle and fulfilling warranties. Having years of previous experience in a body shop I can say with certainty, when you work on someone’s vehicle for even a full day, they look it over 10x closer than they did when they initially purchased the vehicle. Can’t tell you how many times the body shops I worked at put rock chips on customers hoods and bumpers while they sat in the shop..😂
@@thinkforyourself5672 The majority of the cost is the paint correction. Easy to claim taking a DA to an entire vehicles paint is easy, but doing it *well* is an entirely different story. In order to get the type finish a professional can put out you will easily spend 4-600 in proper machines, polishes, liquids, and pads. Plus the 100-200$ coating bottle. Then you have to take into account learning to properly use that equipment to get your desired results which is where most prideful diy peoples expectations will significantly drop, in order to prove they can complete the job. It’s also the liability of polishing someone else’s entire vehicle and fulfilling warranties. Having years of previous experience in a body shop I can say with certainty, when you work on someone’s vehicle for even a full day, they look it over 10x closer than they did when they initially purchased the vehicle. Can’t tell you how many times the body shops I worked at put rock chips on customers hoods and bumpers while they sat in the shop..😂
@@auston.e8493 4-600$ on polisher machine, why spend that much of money to buy a rupes or flex if you just going to use it only a couple time a year for a own car ? there many cheap option that still will get the job done.. $90 harbor freight bauer will still be enough to get the job done.. $200 for polishing compound, do we need koch chemie or sonax product to get a nice result ? i can get the same result with just using the budget friendly 3d one..
Jason, please add the two top performers from this test to your comparison of professionally applied coatings. It would be interesting how well they do against the best. Thanks for a great series of videos.
That’s a great idea. 👍
A water spot remover would be a good idea to incorporate into the decon process as its acidic and will help unclog any coatings in addition to the iron remover.
Yep agreed Mike. Looks to be limescale traces on the paint and second to iron is a real hydrophobicity blocker.
@@adblf I would say it is in most cases the main cause of flat paint, but because of the lack of easy to use hard water removers, it hasn't been promoted as a decon. That has now started yo change.
Yep I don't decon coatings with iron remover, just OP Spotless. Only use iron prior to the paint correction/coating.
Yes, I agree. Iron is not enough … big disappointment at the end of the test ((
Why do we have to use acids now to wash a car? Aren't we just going backwards at that point? It used to be - put a spray sealant on every 6 months or so and you're good to go
I did two layers of Armor Shield IX on my gladiator 14 months ago. This Jeep goes out off-roading In the desert at least twice a month. I did a single stage polish, iron spray and clay mitt first (total amateur). Once a month wash with a wet detail spray and the coating is still fantastic. Looks clean even when dirty and I can use my blower to remove any evidence of the desert that survives the highway home. Still tight beads of water and I can dry the truck with my blower no problem.
I couldn’t be any more satisfied. The tires and windshield obviously didn’t hold up but all the other glass is still clear
Fantastic update video. As a daily detailer and frequent Ceramic coating installer, this video is not only important, but is also concerning for long-term durability. It also stresses the importance of coating maintenance as well. Thank you so much! 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you!
I’ve NEVER used a ceramic on my vehicles. I just use Mothers wax, so when this series came out I followed it as I wanted to see how they’re applied and how long they last. This has been just GREAT! I did notice a dent by the filler cap and a few scratches that the camera picked up and I’d love to see a series on fixing these.
Congratulations! The only channel that does a great job to test which of these products can do well after a year!!! Thanks so much sir! You did a very very important job!!! Provide us the truth!!! The truth will set us free!!!! Many many thanks!!!!
Glad to see Larry’s stuff doing good.
This video verified to my thinking is that I am done using coatings. My truck has CSL topped with exoV4. They might last a little longer but I never go a long time without reapplying anything. The price and the amount of prep work it takes for the coatings is no fun anymore. With products like Griots 3 in 1 and how other spray sealants are getting more durable. I think I will stick to just using those since the longest I would ever go without a reapply is maybe 2months in the winter. They are so much easier to work with and cost alot les for the amount you get.
Quite pleased to see that my choice of Mohs and periodic CanCoat top-up turned out to be a good one. I’ll be sticking with the brand and using the new Evo version of both on my new car.
Assuming by the oxidation you should use a acidic shampoo such as Gyeon Restart Wash. Could make look coatings a little better. Anyways that tells a lot of how they hold up. Mohs looks incredible after 1 year
Nice test. For me, Gyeon Mohs Q2 works best, at first it may seem weak, but after a while you can see that the water film breaks off well, and the varnish itself has a good gloss after washing.
Thanks for all the work that went into this comparison. Very disappointed that more of the products didn’t live up to their claims. Regardless of whether they are ‘prosumer’, some of them cost a lot. Seems like 6 months (+/- a month) is the limit for strong performance. I don’t think it’s unreasonable for a coating to last at least a year. Otherwise, it seems like you need a pro application. That’s great for detailers but some of us just can’t afford it.
Well, I think when a company is making claims it’s usually “best case” scenario. I park outside and in one of the worst climates. So many variables go into how long something will last.
no matter the coating, they all say they need proper maintenance for best performance, so you would be doing at least every 6 months, full maintenance wash, chemical decontaminate/water-spot remover and apply any required topper. Jason is just testing one coat of each product. Plus you have enviro variables as Jason said a lot of these do not like heat. I have an AM Hybrid Sealant coated car, applied last spring, and monthly maintained with AM Hybrid Shampoo and Detailer, and car looks perfect when wet, full beading, no need to use wipers and easy to wash as very little sticks to it. 👍
Just use your favorite spray sealant after every-other wash, longevity will never be an issue.
@@scottmattern482 exactly, infinite protection and very cost effective. plus it lets me test new products as they come out.
@cras gomes bit of both, if you use the recommended topper for the coating, its replenishing/restoring the coating, maintaining the protection.
This demonstrated how important maintenance washes are! I don't add a "topper" after every wash on my personal coated car, rather every few washes. And it's been almost 2 years with CSL and still performs amazing and I wash it maybe once a month. 👍
I cannot believe this test was one year ago. The Ammo held up well and I am impressed with the MOHS and how the panel was darker. From a business stand point selling these coatings as a three year protection would cause a huge problem. Clearly these consumer coatings are only going to last for a year. A company would have no choice but to apply a coating all over again at no cost to the consumer if they want to be in business ten years from now.
Yeah as an "pro-amateur" who has been doing coatings on my own cars for 7~ years now, you really have to take the manufacturers statements with a grain of salt. I personally get about 18months out of a coating, and I live in a similar climate to Jason, but in europe. I do however always park my car inside. On my daily driver, I had "like new" behaviour on the front/hood/roof - But on the sides on the car where water/dirt/salt/snow gets kicked up, I think it physically degrades the coating. On my "summer" car - The coating is almost 3 years old, and the coating still behaves like it was just put on there, granted the car only gets driven maybe 2k miles a year. Its just about wear and tear, the coating gets worn off by washes, wind and weather. If you live in a nicer climate, Los angeles, Florida maybe, or southern europe, as long as you park your car in a garage, I can see people getting 2+ years out of a coating easy.
All the vendors that sell those products normally state that you need to maintain the coating with periodic application of maintenance products. This means that you need to not just apply the coating on day 0. but every other week or every month you need to apply a sealant or a lower concentration spray.
What he demonstrated here is an edge case where you apply the coating and during a year you just regularly wash your car with neutral shampoo or other products that will not remove the coating.
Looking from this perspective, the products that almost survived for a year, probably will last more if you do the maintenance, that is the periodic application of the sprays and other maintenance products.
I like the video because you have an idea of the resistance of the initial coating and if some of them last almost a year, this means that if you do the maintenance correctly, it will keep your car paint in good shape for many years.
@@RafaelKoike I agree, and I maintain my cars very well, and apply a "topper" over the car every time I dry it. It holds up like 3 years on the hood/roof and upper door panels. But its the lower parts that suffer. Water, dirt, salt it basically "mechanically" removes it. My summer car is beading like day one, and its been over 3 years since I coated it. Its just the harsh winters here in northern Scandinavia that beats our coatings up. But I dont mind it at all, I just do a quick one step polish, and apply a coating again. I am very happy with 16-18mo considering the climate here.
Great review guys! This is what it’s all about, putting these products to the test for people to see
Glad you enjoyed it!
Jason I have really enjoyed this series. It was a lot of work for all consumers. The only question was how many miles do you drive this car. We get living in Chicago. The actual miles driven on the car would be something to consider. Thanks man.
In the one year that I had the car I put on 15,000 miles.
@@ChicagoAutoPros Did you ever exceed the speed limit...asking for a friend. Lol. Thanks Jason..that helps me.
Thank you for putting the time into these tests - Would love for you to add Griots products to your tests. They're pretty accessible and affordable so it would be cool to see how they hold up.
I started buying detailing sealants off the internet back in 2000.....This test confirms my findings...Take whatever time frame the manufacturer claims for durability and divide that number in half
Like Mike G said, you should really add a hard water removing shampoo to this test. Given where you are, I think there will be a big effect upon the coatings from minerals that acidic washes will really highlight.
Would make for a great video too and show that fallout isn't the only kind of contamination with coatings and that hard water is what 'kills' coatings and can potentially be easily rejuvenated.
Gyeon and Ammo have always been a favorite in my cabinet. NV is taking the lead though.
This was a great series.
I personally appreciate the effort. Just reminds me to stick to what I like and continue getting better at using it.
Thank you!
Awesome content. When you guys do the pro test, I'm curious if you could do a "pro-sumer" take on it at some point as well. Some of the pro coatings may be worse than the best consumer products but you guys are all putting them on as pros which makes it a more even playing field... So like for me the cancoat has been a staple as I felt like I "couldn't screw it up".
Would love to see a Adams graphene real world test
This series was really nice to watch. Maybe next time you could test it on one panel. They we would have a better idea since different panels have different levels of degradation due to sunlight and abrasives.
I agree! I find fenders are more hydrophobic unlike hoods are more prone to contamination
@@Mostwanteddetailer Exactly!
Great video. I loved it. It was very informative. I'm so excited to see the results of the pro grade ceramic coatings.
I have had Carpro UK 3.0 on my Mustang for 2 years, and it still sheets off almost instantly. But then again I am in Tennessee and the car is under a carport all year. It helps to always put Elixir on it after you wash it
It would be interestong to see what happens when you don't use elixer for a few washes and months, only then can you see the true coating instead of the performance of the maintenance product.
@@jaaphoogendijk671 depending on the weather, particularly in winter, I dont use any sort of maintenance product. But I have no doubt in my environment, UK 3.0 would easily last 2 years
Good timing and a true long term review. It would a good video to do a light polish over those products using a white foam pad. The residue will show the traffic film that remained after your Decon steps. By the way missed you at MTE but you were well represented by Greg and crew!
Can you test Avalon King? Had it on 2 years and seems to be doing great. But it’s a low mileage car so that could be contributing to it holding well for so long.
Jason what topper do you prefer to use? I tried out Xtreme Solutions Topper. Man I was totally blown away by that product.
Can't beat Topper for the money. $40 a GALLON. Slick, glossy, nice beads, easy to use and durable for a topper.
you should use some acid 1:30 for water spot removal before testing them after 1 year
Agreed, most of these coating are probably clogged with water minerals/deposits that aren’t visible to the eye but can have a major effect on these coatings. I always use a mild water spot remover on my clients coated vehicles when they bring them in for maintenance and it completely resets them to peak performance.
Great Video - Can you do a video in which you show how to prep the paint work for a protection coating?
I've got Ammo ReflexPro on my cars going on a year and a half now and still going strong!
Quite concerning tbh isn't Gtechniq CSL supposed to be a 3 year coating
A tech guy at GTechniq told me CSL is a five year coating! Yeah, right...
Thanks for the video. Definitely makes me wonder how my coating is holding up. Wondering if you guys would consider testing PPF ceramic coatings. I got my Model 3 fully wrapped with SunTek PPF a few years ago and GTechniq Halo applied right after the PPF was installed. The Halo didn't seem to last 1 year. I'm curious how other options consumer and commercial hold up. I live in the North East so all the same salt/sand road crud you may see in Chicago. I wash weekly with GFS in summer and ONR in the garage in winter and chemical decon twice a year (IronX + TarX).
Thanks for the info Jason -- no matter the coating, they all say they need proper maintenance for best performance -- so if you think these products are no good, you need to understand that you also need to follow the manufacturers guidelines to look after it (same with Pro coatings). They are not all 'apply 1 coat and leave for a year' products, so you should be looking after the car at least every 3 months with full maintenance wash, chemical decontaminate/water-spot remover and apply any required topper/drying aid to maintain the product. Jason is just testing one coat of each product to stress test them, to see how they do on their own (on his car's paint). Plus you have enviro variables to consider, as Jason said -- some of these products for example, do not like heat, cold or road salt, so your mileage with any of them will vary. I have two coats of AM Hybrid Sealant on my paintwork and regularly top with Hybrid Detailer, my car is outside 24x7 in Scotland, and coating is still looking good, as it did last spring, when it was applied after a polish. Plastics were treated/restored with AM Trim and then Hybrid Sealant on top. 👍
What about the Adam's Graphene?
Love the test, been flowing you for a long time. I just purchased a new vehicle, I’m going to apply a ceramic coating. Is it recommended to clay the vehicle before applying a polish and then the coating?
Only if it needs claying.
Yes, for sure
It only takes like 15-45 minutes
Pretty good series of testing. Was the various brands maintained with their maintenance topper after maintenance wash ?
I was able to get ,going on 2 years of longevity with Gyeon can coat when applied the traditional microsuede application method, that shocked me .
I believe the different season has an effect on the coating and the environmental fallouts during those time .
Where I’m from we have tropical season . Rain and sun .
It was only washed with shampoo every 2 weeks, just to see how long the coatings would last by themselves
@@Theseones sorry ,I read the description only after commenting 🤦♂️ 😅.
Let see the longevity of pro coatings in the upcoming series, Maintenance is integral amongst all the brands.
I use CarPro and Glassparency as my two coatings offered in my business, so it's good to see both of them withstood a year in Chicago. Southern California shouldn't be a problem for them!
Hello Jason and crew from Australia 🙃 I'm going to try Gyeon Mohs new "EVO" ceramic coating for my 1st full ceramic coating😉 I have tried Gyeon can coat and Bilt Hamber Auto Foam did "not" play well together.. I also have tried Adams Graphene ceramic spray coating and found that to work very well but it doesn't like any toppers on it as it goes streaky and is hard to buff off also the surface feels like bear paint and no slickness at all.. I'm hoping that the new Gyeon Mohs EVO gives me what I'm looking for - Wish me luck..
What issue did you have with BH Auto Foam?
@@LSD04 I think the Ph level of Bilt Hamber was to high for the Gyeon Can Coat as it went misty/patchy..😯
Great video and content as always.
Thank you!
I am a firm believer in Ammo ReFlex Pro it is amazing.
Been waiting to see this one!
Can you in the future test out some of the paint coatings made by DPC (Dallas Paint Correction)? Yes have some coatings that last I belive up to 12 years!) Check it out!
Wow! Other than the one rated @ 6 months, the remainder ALL FAILED!!
That's sad!!
I just applied Crystal Serum lite 6 weeks ago and I wouldn't have went to all of that work knowing I'll get barely 1 year out of it when it was advertised as 2-3 year's.
Sounds like, we should coat our vehicles every year unless there are better products that actually last 2-4 years!?
Great video tho, TY!
Good stuff, thanks for the updates! IMO, go for an inexpensive and easy to apply spray coating (Griots 3-1/Gyeon Cancoat,etc.) and simply apply it as a drying aid once a month.
Don't apply cancoat as a drying aid you might get a shock!
Thanks for doing this comparison! I've tried several consumer-grade coatings and I always come back to Cquartz UK. In my opinion, it offers probably the best bang for the buck.
I have been pretty interested in Kamikaze's coatings though and was wondering if you could do another comparison with some of Kamikaze's offerings. Not too many reviews (especially long-term) out there for them. But the few reviews out there sing nothing but praises about them.
Wow I'm surprised CSL failed so badly after a year when they rate 3-5 years....So now what? let's say your coating is failing, do you re-apply more over top the old one or should you polish it down and start from scratch?
Good question! I would also ask: Would you polish off the left over product? Do a chem removal of product(what kind of chem)?
Great question; hope it gets answered.
I was thinking the exact same thing. I was like damn after only a year.
Csl or any ceramic coating last only so long with zero toppers.
@@PaLoHQ so then it should say 3-5 years with toppers. Or is that kinda what they mean when they say with correct maintenance?
Road salts are corrosive, nothing goes through winter here without a dent. Soft99 fussocoat did well beyond these coating for me last winter in Canada.
Now that we've seen how these coatings do with just maintenance washes every couple weeks, what if you did the same coatings but after every wash you topped them up with a drying aid? I feel like most people will use some sort of drying aid with their coatings every wash so I think that would be a perfect real world test and to see if it helps prolong the life of the coatings
Use of a stronger shampoo like CarPro Reset, and a water spot remover are what this car needed not a mild shampoo through the snow foam lance.
@@adblf While I completely agree, that’s not what I was getting at. Almost nobody coats their cars and doesn’t bother to top it up after a wash. I think a more appropriate real world test is to use a drying aid after every wash and see which coatings have the best durability and performance
@@SIat I know it's not what you are getting at. But coatings don't need topped as regularly as you state if they're cleaned with the appropriate chemicals at appropriate intervals.
@@adblf To be clear I’m speaking more a long the lines of a drying aid that has only a few weeks of protection at best as opposed to an actual topper that gives 4-6 months of protection on its own. I’ve coated my fathers car twice now. The first time I coated it with Cquartz UK 3.0. He washes his car biweekly but never tops it up with a drying aid. We live in California so our weather isn’t harsh at all. By the 9 month mark the coating was completely flat just like in this video. So in August I polished the coating off and recoated the car with Cquartz again. I was washing his car the other week to see how the coating was doing and the water behavior was probably 40% as strong as day 1. So I did a decon on the car with some GSF mixed with greenstar, used a tar remover and an iron remover, and the coating came back to maybe 65-70% ish. My next step is an acid based water spot remover to see if that helps much more. My car has CSL/EXO and is washed about once a month on average but sometimes goes 2-3 months without a wash. My car also gets absolutely filthy because it’s catless and has wide wheels/tires that kick road debris all over the side of the car whereas my dad has a Tesla that doesn’t accumulate nearly as much filth. I use a drying aid after every wash and haven’t done a complete decon yet other than using a GSF/Greenstar mix a month ago. My coatings going as strong as day one after almost a year and a half. I know it’s not an apples to apples coating comparison but it still tells a lot about how much using a basic drying aid helps
@@SIat it will be hard water! The first time you polished it off, all it needed was a couple of washes with an acidic soap like Descale and it would have brought it right back. Would have saved you and your father a lot of time and effort.
With your drying aid scenario, is it the drying aid providing the water behaviour? If you were to let that wear off, how would the coating be looking? Provided the coating surface is kept fully clean, not just pH neutral clean, then the coating will perform a lot better.
Wish you did an oxidisation comparison between all coatings to see how Mohs stacks up.
They all really need to be clay barred aswell or like someone mentioned here to use a water spot remover
Have you ever tested Zymol Carbon wax? I haven't switch to coating as it hard to give up 40 years of using a wax or sealant product. Zymol does provide that deep wet look
What do you think of turtle wax ceramic spray hybrid and does it compare with Q2 can coat?
test out the popular dealer coating simonize!
My faith in coatings have now declined dramatically. Why not wash the car once a month & add a sealant to it afterwards? Just as easy and same protection because of the frequency it’s washed and sealed.
Also much cheaper
Did you guys announced the winner for the free training class paint correction & ceramic ?
This video was EYE OPENING😳
I would go for these:
Gyeon Mohs q2
AMMO Reflex
Carpro uk 3.0 - best
Was this ceramic coating not maintained with booster such as CarPro reload 2.0or ammo reflex pro topcoat or Koch Chemie So02
Can't believe it's been a year already! Kind of disappointed with long term coatings, to be honest 😕 I would say the Cancoat did the best job 🧐 I doubt very much that any of those "good" ones will last another 12 months! And you cleaned the car every two weeks ... what I would suggest is to do the decontamination way earlier, after all, it's a daily driven vehicle that is parked outside. My question also is - how to justify the price of ceramic coating service to the customer if they last barely just half of the time the manufacturers' claim? 🤨🧐🤔 Suggestion 😇 - why don't you still keep the AMMO, UK 3.0, MOHS, and Glassparency ones to see when they actually die. They're supposed to be 2-year coatings so why not test them to the fullest? 🙃😉😇 But to be fair, I know for a fact that parking in a garage makes a fundamental difference in the longevity of a ceramic coating.
Great update. Thank you for taking the time to do this for us! 🙂
Good comparation!
Great review Jason! Honestly disappointed Dr.Beasleys product line. I tried out Formula 1201 Paint Sealant on serval of my clients cars and failed within the first 3 months. Also not huge fan on their compounds/polishes. Seems like most of their coatings aren't holding up to what they advertise from my experience and your review
Complete fad of a brand.
Did you tired out Resin MX and Resin Pro? Whats wrong with their NSP polishes and compounds? I'm curious about your opinion.
Hey dude how about the meguires spray sealant? You should test that one
I'd like to see the panels taped, coated, then remove the tape. Just an idea... liked the videos, keep 'em coming.
Shame you guys can't get Garage Therapy products in the US, because their Zero:Decon shampoo is the absolute nuts!
Incredible video.
Interested seeing nanolex si3d and koch allround test
Is it possible to put another layer on top of an older coating that is starting to fade? For example, could you add another 2 layers of CarPro 3.0 on top of what's already there, or will it need to be buffed off?
Coatings needs to bond to clearcoat, so it's better to buff the paint before applying a new layer of coating. The results wont be as effective otherwise.
I can imagine what you think of Meguiar's. I use there sealant products. The only thing I don't like is you have to put on a double coat. I won't use a ceramic or graphene coating on this car just to old. The paint is in bad shape. The car is a 2000 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder. Believe it or not I'm customizing the Camry. The Camry was given to me by my cousin it was his father's Camry. Just curious what you think about Meguiar's products.
Could you please test liquid luster there’s local stores down where I live and they still sell the hell out of liquid luster people love that stuff. is it really that good?
Have you tried an acidic cleaner for the coatings?
Try the meguiars hybrid paint coating
Great video
Awesome video , i used Dr beasleys nano resin over a year ago , it has been 15 months anti looks amazing like candy ,also very hydrophobic, i wash it once a week , may be is the weather in chicago , im in southern california , do you think that has somenthing to do with it ??
Does it still has selfhealing properties?
No meguiar's hybrid paint coating?
Why didn't you apply Modesta in sted of can coat?
How did the Koch Chemie Product do as well as 303 product?
Where is S0.02?
A summary of the products would be nice.
It seems like you were just trying to beat the coatings to hell. Also, why would you say something like using "iron remover to remove these contaminants" (around 2:13) and not mention claying the paint? Iron removers only remove iron particles, not embedded dirt, like clay. Its just odd coming from a pro with your experience.
I’m from Detroit and old school guy from Flint said megiuers boat wax is the best. What’s your opinion.
You're crazy...you've been drinking lead water..
Im currently using carbon colective molecule coating (2 layers) and after one year it is holding still (i have video too). I also recommend this coating for my customers.
Great suggestion. How many layers do you use?
@@cynthiaenglish2736 hups, i meant to write 2 layers.
When do we review the other products on the vehicle?
Surprised CSL didn’t last
The moral of the story is, always reapply your sealant before & after winter, and as needed.
Can an annual maintenance bring CSL back to life?
No CSL is the second worst product here, to the Dr Bs. Awful
You can always rely on Ammo to produce a good product.
You should try DPC TMR. Nice video thanks.
If regular ammo reflex works. Pro should be even better
Çok iyi iş. Türkçe altyazı bekliyoruz.
Very disappointed in these coatings. If you use Adam’s Graphene Ceramic Coating it literally lasts 3-5 years in harsh Michigan winters. It’s the only one I can truly say works
without WSR this test is not the best ;/
i think nexgen should represent everyones product
Keep it simple just use car pro 3.0 and top it every now and then there is no 9 year lasting ceramic coating gtechnic is overrated.
So basically none of these $100 products are worth it. Buy Turtle Wax Flex Wax Graphene for $20 and apply it every other wash.
I'm thinking of going to can coat, at least you'll only have to do it twice a year not every two weeks
Flex Wax is just Seal N Shine with some pencil lead powder mixed in. Stick with SnS
@@matteightytwo In testing on this channel and others, it lasts 3-4 months. If you are the type of person who spends $100 on a ceramic, you are washing your car and using drying aids anyway. So a $20/year product is just as good as super hyped $100 stuff.
NGL I am disappointed with every single one of these products.
Looks like when I apply gtechniq on cars. Does not last long lol