Great tips! I enjoyed the footage of the rails in the beginning. I cannot wait to get moved into my new house and get started setting up a layout. It's been 25 years since I've had one.
Hey, I bought an electric portable toothbrush with 2 heads and thought what to do, so I pulled all the bristles out of the 2 heads and took some 2 sided tape and cut the sandpaper and tape to what job I needed to sand including a triangle. It really works so now I am going to more yard sales and try to fine more heads.
April, 2023 and just starting to landscape my new trainboard. Hope I can jump in like you. I find it harder when im not modeling with a photograph reference. We'll see how it goes. Gary
Real nice video. For the seperation from main line to the siding I use a strait edge to make the transation from main to siding flow as a straight line without the ups and downs you sometimes se. I shim up the section of flex track so it is a non-wavy incline. Then I use simple sand to reinforce the grade setting it with 50/50 glue water mixture. Then ballest saving ballest because of the cost. Sand is practically free... Sand sets up hard as concrete..
Hi DJ, nice to see you working on a layout. Although I throughly enjoy your drone and engineer story videos, it's nice to see your tips and techniques on your layout also. See ya next time.
I discovered a product for keeping track clean and conductive. I bought it for treating the contacts of an old Hammond Organ. I have a small section of track on top of my computer hutch on which I just occasionally run a train back and forth. I noticed that I was having to clean this track a lot. So I decided to try this contact cleaner. To my delight, it works very well. It´s called F series Deoxity Fader F5, green, black, silver label. It´s not cheap, about $20 for a 5 oz can. My track is N gauge. So I take a dried out alcohol prep pad, spray a little on the pad and wipe the track. Thought it might help on your layout.
Near the turnouts, you should put a few very small light/white mounds to simulate an engine that needed a lot of sand to start its train. Correct spacing is a critical clue! 👍🏻🙂
I started planning my model railroad a year or two ago, not having the money yet but knowing I would like to have years of research to plan it just the way I want. Since then, I've actually got a job as a conductor on a class II railroad (yes class II not III lol), and I've since realized that I was making my layout FAR too perfect, if it would be great to have 20 cars fit there, it only fits 18. If it would be great for that wye to be in service, it isn't. This goes back to what DJ was saying that some things are very neglected and it's good to model it that way. Makes it more interesting than everything being perfect.
I am about to start on two small yards. I am using foam core to bring the height of the scenery to track level (I have Kato Unitrack) and then use cinders/dirt/fine dust/sifted tile grout for the ground cover and ballast, or what is left of it!
Apologies if this comment is a repeat. You spread the Sculptamold over some plaster cloth and mentioned the tiny holes in the cloth. Once you have your plaster cloth laid in, take paint brush, or you hand, wet with water and "paint" the cloth. That spreads the wet plaster and fills in those holes.
Also you can add 1 or 2 ties that are cockeyed. Just one or two, not many...Also, one or two half ties...like they don't go all the way across half. Again, just one or two...
Hi DJ, I'm surprised you're using cork roadbed and flex track. For the longest time you were sold on Kato UniTrack 😀 I also use Isopropyl Alcohol as my wetting agent, but years ago I purchased a fine mist spray bottle at a local craft store. Since it sprays a fine mist, it does not disturb the ballast and scenery material. I actually use a 3:1 mixture of Water and Elmer's White glue. That's 3 parts water to one part glue and have never had a problem with this formula. I soak the entire area until it looks like a white glue flood has happened. Here's a little tip for ballasting around switches / turnouts. Apply some plastic compatible oil around the throw bar of the switch to prevent the glue from accidentally gluing the throw bar in place. Also while gluing always center the points to keep from accidentally gluing the points to the stock rails. Bet you can figure out how I know this 😀 What kind of cork road bed are you using? All the stuff I've used on my layouts, when you bend it in half length wise then separate it, it gives you a nice beveled edge for the ballast. The North Bessemer area looks great DJ, I'm looking forward to future layout update. Cheers, Rich S.
When I made a siding on a module, I intentionally set the track crooked and uneven. The train wobbles side to side when it enters the siding. I still used roadbed but sanded it down to about half of the original height.
DJ, Next time use Powergrab by Loctite. They make it in clear. I use powergrab in my modeling and in my construction profession, it’s pretty good stuff. Plus it has a shorter cure time than Alex. I like the idea of throwing some scenery on staging, gives a more “finished “ look. Keep it up, looking awesome. Greg
Looking great DJ, its really starting to take on the flavor of the Union Bessemer yard scene that I saw on your drone video. I cant wait to see the car shop when you get it done. Cheers Rob
I want to do scenery on my ho layout but it's not even on a sturdy level table yet. Just two sheets of 1/4 inch particleboard on various things of similar height with sections of track laid down.
yes. Pros and cons. I use insulfrog which is power routing. I like that they lock in place, but over time the conductivity wears and you have to add feeder wires on the sidings because of it.
Strasburg. May 15 is red caboose hotel, 16-17 meet and greet, 9:30 am start, train ride is 11 AM May 16. I got 100 tickets for that train, people can buy from me .
May 15-17th my daughter has a lead in the school musical. I don't have to see it all 3 days, so I am going to have to wait until closer to decide which day. Sigh, story of my life, everything happens same day.
@@djstrains I truly want thank you for the vantage points of yards, industries, and all the other places we don’t get to legally see. 🙏 Not to mention the explanations of how railroads think/operate, and design elements/details to make a model railroad feel like the prototype. Your personal experience as an engineer that you share with us is a true blessing! I always enjoy your stories and appreciate your firsthand knowledge.
Just wondering, do you know anyone who makes N-scale track weathered to look like the real thing (brown, rusty, etc.)? I've spray automotive primer on it to do this, but I was curious.
How tough is it to remove Latex Caulk from the KATO UNITRACK, if that is to be used? Or, would a modeler use the Track Nails to go into Cork Roadbed on top of the Pink, Green, Blue Dense Foam? I don’t like to think of putting KATO Track down on Plywood directly. There’s just too much noise generated throughout the entire layout. The Sub-Roadbed is the Ticket I’m my book.
So I removed all my unitrak from last layout and what’s ok is that it filled up some of the gap in the underside of the track without it causing any problems if I needed to glue it down again later
Great video. Looks great in my opinion. I'm just starting my small n scale layout and having a blast so far. Hit that like button, and not just because it was 666 haha
??? All the years I've been around railroads one thing that I still don't know is how a real train turns the signals on could you explain that I'm sure I'm not the only one
Did you know that like a model train set, there actually is electricity (small) running through the tracks? And lets say there is a 10 mile stretch of track, and every 2 mies the steel rails are cut to isolate the 10 miles into 5 separate pieces. And at each one of those gaps is a signal. So the train enters the 1st section. The metal wheels on a metal axle connect the circuit of electricity from the one rail to the other, and boom the signal comes on and indicates there is a train in that first section. Now the train goes into the second section and that signal comes on. Now if you were watching from behind the train, you'd see the first light go red to show there is a train in the section ahead of you. but as the train leaves that one and goes into the third one, the one that was red is now yellow, warning you that the next one is red. As the train progresses further, your yellow turns green to let you know that train is now 2 signals away. (simplified, but I hope that makes sense)
Great tips! I enjoyed the footage of the rails in the beginning. I cannot wait to get moved into my new house and get started setting up a layout. It's been 25 years since I've had one.
Thank you for your time and your tips. Love you D.J. Bob
Hey, I bought an electric portable toothbrush with 2 heads and thought what to do, so I pulled all the bristles out of the 2 heads and took some 2 sided tape and cut the sandpaper and tape to what job I needed to sand including a triangle. It really works so now I am going to more yard sales and try to fine more heads.
Well DJ, you did it again, making me rethink some parts of layout....thanks👍
April, 2023 and just starting to landscape my new trainboard. Hope I can jump in like you. I find it harder when im not modeling with a photograph reference. We'll see how it goes. Gary
I am modeling a yard in Wisconsin. This helps me quite a bit.
Looks great, DJ. You’ve given me some inspiration for my yard.
Scenery is looking great. The hardest part about model railroading is waiting for everything to dry!
Real nice video. For the seperation from main line to the siding I use a strait edge to make the transation from main to siding flow as a straight line without the ups and downs you sometimes se. I shim up the section of flex track so it is a non-wavy incline. Then I use simple sand to reinforce the grade setting it with 50/50 glue water mixture. Then ballest saving ballest because of the cost. Sand is practically free... Sand sets up hard as concrete..
I'm going to be working on my yard soon so this was very useful. Thanks!
You make videos DJ that are kept simple and on point. You keep things easy to follow which is very important as reference points. Thanks buddy. 👍
Hi DJ, nice to see you working on a layout. Although I throughly enjoy your drone and engineer story videos, it's nice to see your tips and techniques on your layout also. See ya next time.
That's very helpful. Entertaining, too! Thanks!
looks great DJ! hope youre having a great week!
This scenery section turned out great DJ. Looking very prototypical. A little bit done tastefully goes a long way
Harleymike/chicago
Welcome back to the layout!
It is amazing how (when done correctly) how ugly the gluing looks when wet and then dry. Just walk away.
Not gonna lie, I may or may not have made the mix way to heavy. I checked on it every hour, lol.
Thanks as always, my friend. You are a great friend and human being. The world needs more people like you.
DJ,thanks for sharing how to do MR work,please show more.Happy Model Railroading.🚂✌🌍
I discovered a product for keeping track clean and conductive. I bought it for treating the contacts of an old Hammond Organ. I have a small section of track on top of my computer hutch on which I just occasionally run a train back and forth. I noticed that I was having to clean this track a lot. So I decided to try this contact cleaner. To my delight, it works very well. It´s called F series Deoxity Fader F5, green, black, silver label. It´s not cheap, about $20 for a 5 oz can. My track is N gauge. So I take a dried out alcohol prep pad, spray a little on the pad and wipe the track. Thought it might help on your layout.
Good job mate, Another brilliant, easy to follow, exceptionally helpful and enjoyable video. Many thanks!
Near the turnouts, you should put a few very small light/white mounds to simulate an engine that needed a lot of sand to start its train. Correct spacing is a critical clue! 👍🏻🙂
Nice scenery work DJ, & a very good drone shot too. Take care bud.
I started planning my model railroad a year or two ago, not having the money yet but knowing I would like to have years of research to plan it just the way I want. Since then, I've actually got a job as a conductor on a class II railroad (yes class II not III lol), and I've since realized that I was making my layout FAR too perfect, if it would be great to have 20 cars fit there, it only fits 18. If it would be great for that wye to be in service, it isn't. This goes back to what DJ was saying that some things are very neglected and it's good to model it that way. Makes it more interesting than everything being perfect.
Very nice, I like the idea of having the siding lower, I use HO cork for main line and N scale cork for sidings .
That's looking really good! Looking forward to seeing when you model that shop
I am about to start on two small yards. I am using foam core to bring the height of the scenery to track level (I have Kato Unitrack) and then use cinders/dirt/fine dust/sifted tile grout for the ground cover and ballast, or what is left of it!
Coming along nicely. 👍
This is helpful even for someone who runs 3 rail o gauge
Apologies if this comment is a repeat. You spread the Sculptamold over some plaster cloth and mentioned the tiny holes in the cloth. Once you have your plaster cloth laid in, take paint brush, or you hand, wet with water and "paint" the cloth. That spreads the wet plaster and fills in those holes.
Also you can add 1 or 2 ties that are cockeyed. Just one or two, not many...Also, one or two half ties...like they don't go all the way across half. Again, just one or two...
Hi DJ, I'm surprised you're using cork roadbed and flex track. For the longest time you were sold on Kato UniTrack 😀 I also use Isopropyl Alcohol as my wetting agent, but years ago I purchased a fine mist spray bottle at a local craft store. Since it sprays a fine mist, it does not disturb the ballast and scenery material. I actually use a 3:1 mixture of Water and Elmer's White glue. That's 3 parts water to one part glue and have never had a problem with this formula. I soak the entire area until it looks like a white glue flood has happened. Here's a little tip for ballasting around switches / turnouts. Apply some plastic compatible oil around the throw bar of the switch to prevent the glue from accidentally gluing the throw bar in place. Also while gluing always center the points to keep from accidentally gluing the points to the stock rails. Bet you can figure out how I know this 😀 What kind of cork road bed are you using? All the stuff I've used on my layouts, when you bend it in half length wise then separate it, it gives you a nice beveled edge for the ballast. The North Bessemer area looks great DJ, I'm looking forward to future layout update. Cheers, Rich S.
Great ideas and it looks great!!
Thank you! Cheers!
This is giving me inspiration for a project I'm working on, on a game called rolling line (basically virtual model railroading)
Nice work, DJ. The scene looks very realistic. ...Roy
Another great, helpful video.
Brilliant stuff DJ, thank you.
Very beautiful job DJ!
When I made a siding on a module, I intentionally set the track crooked and uneven. The train wobbles side to side when it enters the siding. I still used roadbed but sanded it down to about half of the original height.
Very nicely done.
Good work and a great video. Thanks for sharing
Thank you share detail video on your layout
More scenes, cool. Good job
Great layout! Very enjoyable video!
DJ,
Next time use Powergrab by Loctite. They make it in clear. I use powergrab in my modeling and in my construction profession, it’s pretty good stuff. Plus it has a shorter cure time than Alex. I like the idea of throwing some scenery on staging, gives a more “finished “ look. Keep it up, looking awesome. Greg
Looking great DJ, its really starting to take on the flavor of the Union Bessemer yard scene that I saw on your drone video. I cant wait to see the car shop when you get it done. Cheers Rob
Looking good!
nice video bro
Great video!! You could give Luke Towan a run for his money on yard track and scenery.
Lol!!
Thanks DJ for the info and the drone shots for us model railroaders! Are you going to be at the train show in Monroeville on Feb 22nd and the 23rd?
I am unsure because work is kicking my butt.
I want to do scenery on my ho layout but it's not even on a sturdy level table yet. Just two sheets of 1/4 inch particleboard on various things of similar height with sections of track laid down.
if thats all you have for now, then enjoy it and run trains! My first layout was the "plywood central" for a long time.
Looks really good! Boy that URR MP15 looks very familiar! Lol
hahaha
Looking good! 👍
That Sculptamold looked delicious! Try some for breakfast, it'll stick with you all day!
I have eaten worse, lol.
Cool... Nice ideas, thanks
Looks great 👍
Nice work friend
Thank you very much
Looks awesome DJ ! 👍
I like your jib crane. I might get that for part 2 of this video.
dale, oops, I meant to comment about the crane on another friends post, sorry for any confusion
LOL it's all good ! 👍😂
Excellent video very informative
Nicely done.
Nice work
Nice job !
Another great video, DJ! Are those PECO turnouts? I think that is what I am going with. Nice Alco, too!
yes. Pros and cons. I use insulfrog which is power routing. I like that they lock in place, but over time the conductivity wears and you have to add feeder wires on the sidings because of it.
Great video, how is sculpt a mold different from plaster of Paris? Sorry if it is a silly question.
i love sculpt a mold because it is way easier to work with over a longer period of time. Plaster sets quicker. Sculpt is more like clay.
@@djstrains Awesome and thank you for such a quick reply. Excited for your next video.
Strasburg. May 15 is red caboose hotel, 16-17 meet and greet, 9:30 am start, train ride is 11 AM May 16. I got 100 tickets for that train, people can buy from me .
May 15-17th my daughter has a lead in the school musical. I don't have to see it all 3 days, so I am going to have to wait until closer to decide which day. Sigh, story of my life, everything happens same day.
@@djstrains may 16 is the big day, when everyone will be there .
May 15 is just when people checking into the red caboose hotel.. so 16 best day
DJ, the only thing I have ever disagreed with you about is YARD TRACKS CAN NEVER BE TOO LONG!!! I run into the opposite problem...
hahaha
@@djstrains I truly want thank you for the vantage points of yards, industries, and all the other places we don’t get to legally see. 🙏 Not to mention the explanations of how railroads think/operate, and design elements/details to make a model railroad feel like the prototype. Your personal experience as an engineer that you share with us is a true blessing! I always enjoy your stories and appreciate your firsthand knowledge.
as a former yardmaster....I agree with DJ. Yard tracks can NEVER be too long.
Working on N Scale layouts will be Challenging just like All Other Gauges.
Just wondering, do you know anyone who makes N-scale track weathered to look like the real thing (brown, rusty, etc.)? I've spray automotive primer on it to do this, but I was curious.
not preweathered
For spurs and yard tracks I handlay my track it's so much easier to make the track look under maintained
Way beyond my skill set, but you are right.
@@djstrains its mostly basic soldering and a good ( micro trains ) trackguage
I use pc board ties to hold guage and basswood ties
Nice super 👍👌.
LG Gert
Why don’t you split your cork in half and then you get a 45° edge?
How tough is it to remove Latex Caulk from the KATO UNITRACK, if that is to be used?
Or, would a modeler use the Track Nails to go into Cork Roadbed on top of the Pink, Green, Blue Dense Foam?
I don’t like to think of putting KATO Track down on Plywood directly. There’s just too much noise generated throughout the entire layout. The Sub-Roadbed is the Ticket I’m my book.
So I removed all my unitrak from last layout and what’s ok is that it filled up some of the gap in the underside of the track without it causing any problems if I needed to glue it down again later
Great video. Looks great in my opinion. I'm just starting my small n scale layout and having a blast so far. Hit that like button, and not just because it was 666 haha
Two 👍👍....Toot Toot!
Rail yards Are Not Easy to do. I am Still working My N Scale And I Run Bachmann.
??? All the years I've been around railroads one thing that I still don't know is how a real train turns the signals on could you explain that I'm sure I'm not the only one
Did you know that like a model train set, there actually is electricity (small) running through the tracks? And lets say there is a 10 mile stretch of track, and every 2 mies the steel rails are cut to isolate the 10 miles into 5 separate pieces. And at each one of those gaps is a signal. So the train enters the 1st section. The metal wheels on a metal axle connect the circuit of electricity from the one rail to the other, and boom the signal comes on and indicates there is a train in that first section. Now the train goes into the second section and that signal comes on. Now if you were watching from behind the train, you'd see the first light go red to show there is a train in the section ahead of you. but as the train leaves that one and goes into the third one, the one that was red is now yellow, warning you that the next one is red. As the train progresses further, your yellow turns green to let you know that train is now 2 signals away. (simplified, but I hope that makes sense)
@@djstrains okay I understand it now is that how the crossing signals work also I'm presuming
Do you use code 80 or 55? I started buying some code 80 and then read that it is very much not to scale and code 55 is much better for realism.
80 is easier to find and less prone to derailments. code 55 is more realistic but not all wheels like it.
You didn´t paint the rails?
off camera
When People Model Rail yards All is to Be Different than All the Same.
Your talented. 3-31 is a very special day for me and you. Wanna go out to diner on me?
Sure! Do you like gladiator movies?