Don’t make this anchor mistake
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- Опубликовано: 20 фев 2024
- Can you equalize cams without a sling? If you don't do it wrong, sure!
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lol. The blue one is the only one I don’t have. Def getting in this.
"It's not dangerous, it's dumb" -- what a great throwaway line.
i want it on a sticker for my helmet
Appreciate the collaborations between you two!
The metal one from black diamond looks like it was split and woven back into itself, very common for wire rope eyes, and shockingly strong even without a crimp
clipping in the little hole on the totem is something new
“Sick of your empty promises” -Gunks trad dad
With two cams or other pieces in the same crack, or nearby, it is okay to clove hitch your climbing rope into each piece's carabiner. I anchored this way for many years after starting climbing in 1976. You get decent equalization this way.
2014-2021 I used a Metolius static PAS. After that, Metolius's dynamic PAS. Convenient. But the old clove hitch method is valid.
It's probably super good enough, but at 03:08 when you clip the blue carabiner to the silver one, looks like the sling might get pinched by the two carabiners and therefore compromised in certain situations.
Might be worth considering.
I just saw edelrid released a new belay device called the pinch that can attach directly to the belay loop and was in hopes you would make a video on it before i buy it 😅
I second this! It looks like it could have an issue with opening when attached directly to the harness.
This is the first time I've audibly said "uueeeeehhh" when you broke something.
Another helpful video to ponder - 11 to 12 kN for the BD /Alien cams is impressive. Guess it all comes down to placement. Think the slung hitch master point is hard to beat for equalizing anchors, especially if one cam creeps slightly. Awesome job guys!
How did you not call this channel…
_”How Knot 2”_
Also, love the channel, told everyone i know with a harness about it.
My two favorite creators. Batman and robin
Which one is Batman?
Remember your roots Ryan !!
I would love to see this format of video for the cutting edge of highline anchors and segmenting systems!
Btw... this video was gold also 😁
Why do you say to clip the sling instead of the loop when the sling is attached to the loop? Isn't it exactly the same force on the loop either way?
He is testing the scenario where this cam breaks or doesn't hold and the force is then transmitted up to the second cam. If you clip the loop then the force is transferred through that loop, if you clip the sling the force is transmitted through the sling instead (and this cam or what is left of it hangs from sling doing nothing).
On the C4, the the cables ripped out of the side at 2kN. You can definitely get 2kN in normal climbing falls, so its best to clip the sling so that your cam doesn't break.
Ayyy I love being one of the first people to see a vid. Keep up the great work, love the content
Shout out to the Gunks! 🙌
What happened to never girth hitching carabiners?
read my mind... i thought girth hitching is not ideal since a cut sling could, theoretically, let the biner slip out under load.
but then again, how likely is that the sling gets suddenly cut at the anchor? almost none if it was set up properly and its not 20 years old... probably its more likely to be hit by random rockfall
in Ryan's tests, the girth hitch did not slip after sling breaking
Look back to season 4
Hi just wanted to know 1 KN is equal to how many Kilograms
1kN ÷ 9.81m/s^2 (gravity) ≈ 102kg
I didnt expect to see how strong that loop was, when you pulled on it suboptimally. Not like this an endorsement to ‘cross load’ your cams.
I have always been told never clip carabiner to carabiner. I was never given an explanation other than just don’t do it. Can you provide some insight into why this has become dogmatic in the climbing world?
generally speaking I think it's said because why add another link to potentially break in your chain as opposed to just clipping where the first carabiner is attached to. but in the particular way he did in the video, one thing I see wrong is you are now rubbing metal on metal on a carabiner that would normally only touch your climbing rope or other soft goods. metal on metal could make a sharp edge under load and damage ropes
The main reasoning I've been told is because of bad things happening when metal on metal twists. It can open gates and/or load carabiners in weird/bad ways. If you have two carabiners connected together, but they hang in free space with soft material on either end to absorb any twisting, I think you're fine.
Adding on to the comment above, a carabiner clipped to a bolt hanger and then loaded often creates sharp burrs on the carabiners which you don't want any soft goods rubbing against.
But carabiner on carabiner action seems way less likely to create damage like that.
If you have two non locking carabiners try clip them to each other. You can see for yourself how ridiculously easy it is to twist them off each other.
Why Ryan's videos are so short nowadays? 😢
I like the term "Tranker" instead of trad anchor .
I just want it to be know that I won the staring contest...
I'm not a trad daddy, but I may be a traddie baddie