I for one am certainly looking forward to seeing this tool post drilling apparatus in action. Bruce Williams notes that there were some thumbs down. I don't understand that either. But I am told that even a thumbs down is a credit to your channel ratings in a good way. So there you go Steve, and thank you for all the ideas you have shared with us over the years.
Nice choice on the tapers . Just making similar with ER16 and went for thrust front and back and two oilites. I hope they tighten up when fitted.nice clamping and drive parts.
Gday Steve, this is definitely a very sturdy design, brilliant idea, rigidity is the key, I’ve never thought of using Delrin to make a seal cover, thank you for sharing another top quality design, I very much appreciate it mate, take care, Matty
Hi Steve, I appreciate your videos. I like the idea and it gives me a lot of food for thought on other uses for a bearing set up like this. I can never understand who on earth gives a thumbs down to someones work unless that work is vulgar or stupid. C'est la vie. Thank you again for all the help through the years.
Nicely made. A word of warning to anyone watching this video..NEVER stick your fingers into rotating work to polish or deburr. It is a very bad habit. Use a piece of wood like a chop stick or broom handle with a split in the end to hold the abrasive paper or abrasive pad. You can get away for a long time using your fingers for this, but if you were ever in the shop and saw what can happen to someone's fingers when it all goes wrong you'd never do it again. Like Marc L'Ecuyer says, "Have fun, be safe!"
Another excellent idea and project ...Thanks Steve. I need something like this. But for grinding radius on tool bits and drill bits. Your video helps immensely for visualizing exactly what I need. I may be putting a diamond cup wheel in the lathe chuck with a similar rig to what you have but on a vertical pin for the radius work. Also with an index wheel so I could use it like a Deckel.
Great idea Steve - very useful. If you wanted to, you could also grind a small flat for the grub screws, so that any burr made by the tips of the grub screws doesn't interfere with disassembly later. I could really do with something like this spindle for drilling and grinding work. Cheers, Craig
That is an awesome idea Steve. Sure would be a very solid rigid setup. Looking forward to seeing you use it in the next video. Just thinking with this setup you could probably turn that at a very fast speed. Is it possible that you could use a dremel on there and use a grinding or cutting disk? Thanks Dale in Canada
Steve, just wondering if: i guess that you will set the end play for the roller bearings with grease in them, and thinking whether there is any issue with doing that 'static', without the hydrodynamic float layer that builds up during rotation? Also, with two grub screws on one side of that preload collet, you might get a *microscopic* axial alignment shift? could you have gotten shielded bearings? Planning to use a flex shaft from drilI to collet assy, to avoid deflection of the positioning due to the drill load? Question answered by 'insert' from next video ;-) Silly questions, perhaps...
I bought three ER20 collet chucks from Banggood. One was good (R8 for my mill). Also bought a straight shank and MT2. Neither was accurate. Going to cut them up for parts eventually. Until then, I'm still looking for a good chuck. Where did you get that nice ER20 chuck?
Very nice project. Can I ask why you heated the bearing holder? When I watched you heating it up I was expecting it to be heated to red hot and dropped in oil to protect the surface.
Thanks. Yes I heated it up and dropped it in an oil bath to blacken it. I didn't show everything as to keep the video as short as possible. Regards Steve
Actually they don't need preloading. In other applications they are set with an adjustable nut arrangement. Not under load. Set like I have done here is perfect for this setup. Regards Steve.
I would agree Steve, front bearing gets pushed back in to taper in use, so locates it's self. You could have got away with a plain bearing in the back but that's neither here nor there. Cheers
facebook.com/steve.jordan.3766952
I for one am certainly looking forward to seeing this tool post drilling apparatus in action. Bruce Williams notes that there were some thumbs down. I don't understand that either. But I am told that even a thumbs down is a credit to your channel ratings in a good way. So there you go Steve, and thank you for all the ideas you have shared with us over the years.
Nice work. It’s also great idea to make a grinder same way.
Nice choice on the tapers . Just making similar with ER16 and went for thrust front and back and two oilites. I hope they tighten up when fitted.nice clamping and drive parts.
Gday Steve, this is definitely a very sturdy design, brilliant idea, rigidity is the key, I’ve never thought of using Delrin to make a seal cover, thank you for sharing another top quality design, I very much appreciate it mate, take care, Matty
I find it relaxing to watch you machining. Needed it today! Nice little upgrade. Thank you for sharing!!
-Joe
Hi Steve. Very nice. With those taper roller bearings, you will definitely be able to do some serious milling.
Thanks for sharing
More great idea and excellent work. Thank you for sharing
COLLET CHUCK IN VIDEO...CHOOSE THE (ER20 COLLET CHUCK 150MM LONG) IN LINK BELOW:-
ER11 to ER25 Straight Shank Collet Chuck Holder -- bit.ly/3hqLWN7
Tapered Roller Bearing Used. Challenge 32004
Thanks Steve, that's the same one I bought and had issues with. Guess luck of the draw on the quality of these.
Thanks Steve! I always enjoy the thought and time you put into your excellent videos.
All the best,
Norm in Arizona
Thank's for another great inspiring video Steve.
Hi Steve, I appreciate your videos. I like the idea and it gives me a lot of food for thought on other uses for a bearing set up like this. I can never understand who on earth gives a thumbs down to someones work unless that work is vulgar or stupid. C'est la vie. Thank you again for all the help through the years.
Nicely made. A word of warning to anyone watching this video..NEVER stick your fingers into rotating work to polish or deburr. It is a very bad habit. Use a piece of wood like a chop stick or broom handle with a split in the end to hold the abrasive paper or abrasive pad.
You can get away for a long time using your fingers for this, but if you were ever in the shop and saw what can happen to someone's fingers when it all goes wrong you'd never do it again. Like Marc L'Ecuyer says, "Have fun, be safe!"
Another excellent idea and project ...Thanks Steve. I need something like this. But for grinding radius on tool bits and drill bits. Your video helps immensely for visualizing exactly what I need. I may be putting a diamond cup wheel in the lathe chuck with a similar rig to what you have but on a vertical pin for the radius work. Also with an index wheel so I could use it like a Deckel.
nice video Steve ,thanks for sharing,
Nice clean work. Enjoyed.
Hi Steve
Yet another good idea, this is on my list to make, the thumbs down are usually caused by the sensitive touch screen & unknowingly done.
Nice job!
Great idea Steve - very useful. If you wanted to, you could also grind a small flat for the grub screws, so that any burr made by the tips of the grub screws doesn't interfere with disassembly later. I could really do with something like this spindle for drilling and grinding work. Cheers, Craig
Hi Craig yes I will do that. I ground and polished the 8mm locking bolts on the toolpost the same so it doesn't mark the tool diameters.
Yes, that's a great idea too. Cheers, Craig
i have been doing the oil thing for years for rust protection,i use the dirtiest used oil for the blackist finished.
Nice idea Steve, thanks for sharing.
Cheers
That is an awesome idea Steve. Sure would be a very solid rigid setup. Looking forward to seeing you use it in the next video. Just thinking with this setup you could probably turn that at a very fast speed. Is it possible that you could use a dremel on there and use a grinding or cutting disk? Thanks
Dale in Canada
Steve, just wondering if: i guess that you will set the end play for the roller bearings with grease in them, and thinking whether there is any issue with doing that 'static', without the hydrodynamic float layer that builds up during rotation? Also, with two grub screws on one side of that preload collet, you might get a *microscopic* axial alignment shift? could you have gotten shielded bearings?
Planning to use a flex shaft from drilI to collet assy, to avoid deflection of the positioning due to the drill load? Question answered by 'insert' from next video ;-)
Silly questions, perhaps...
Where did you buy the seals?
I bought three ER20 collet chucks from Banggood. One was good (R8 for my mill). Also bought a straight shank and MT2. Neither was accurate. Going to cut them up for parts eventually. Until then, I'm still looking for a good chuck. Where did you get that nice ER20 chuck?
That hen at 2:58. Lol.
Very nice project. Can I ask why you heated the bearing holder? When I watched you heating it up I was expecting it to be heated to red hot and dropped in oil to protect the surface.
Thanks. Yes I heated it up and dropped it in an oil bath to blacken it. I didn't show everything as to keep the video as short as possible. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan Ok. Thanks.
I would buy one from you?
Those bearings need to be preloaded to function correctly.
Why?
Actually they don't need preloading. In other applications they are set with an adjustable nut arrangement. Not under load. Set like I have done here is perfect for this setup. Regards Steve.
I would agree Steve, front bearing gets pushed back in to taper in use, so locates it's self. You could have got away with a plain bearing in the back but that's neither here nor there. Cheers