Buying Sport Climbing Quickdraws - Know the Differences
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- USA People here is where I recommend buying your quickdraws: rei.rockporch....
Community: www.skool.com/...
I quickly break down the differences of quickdraws from my experience.
Climbing is very nuanced and even this video doesn’t cover EVERYthing. Add your comments on things I may have not covered to help out people here to learn.
Thanks
#rockclimbing #climbing #bouldering #boulder #sportclimbing #outdoorclimbing
Worth mentioning that Sports specific draws with a thick dog bone make it way easier to dog routes when working moves etc, using the dog bone to pull on the draws, while working moves are essential when projecting at your limit.
Yeah good addition! I was a little worried about addressing grabbing draws, I know people who have put a quickdraw deep in their hand from grabbing them while falling and when they were getting patched up the doc told them someone lost a thumb grabbing a draw that day.
Pretty scary stuff.
@@ClimbClearbrutal, I’ve heard similar to be fair but when dogging routes it’s just the done thing….well not falling and grabbing the draw, that’s just asking for trouble, more when you’re working a few moves and then grabbing the draw to pull up.
@@kevedwards yeah I’ve totally done that, just careful planting that seed in beginners heads, you know how jerky new climbers are and if they think about it as an option a bit above a draw and grab it while falling bad news bears
Wire gates can supposedly (accidentally) unclip easier from the bolt; bent gates can supposedly (accidentally) unclip easier from the rope. The rope side should have a rubber keeper to keep the biner from flipping and unclipping. I see no reason to use quickdraws for trad, only alpine draws (under-extending pieces causes accidents).
Another thing to consider is dogbone length, I've never had a problem with the short ones. I carry two alpine draws always, as you do, except one has two lightweight locking biners.
Most trad climbers bring a few quickdraws up to extend pieces. Thanks for pointing out the dogbone length thats something I forgot to cover. I also have the standard 12cm ones only, they've served me pretty well but maybe if I was climbing regularly is a wandery area I would want longer ones.
Very location dependant. Hoping this video helps some new climbers though because I found it hard to learn when I started.
I think the problem with wire gates on the rock side is that their nose might get stuck on the sharp latch of screw on bolt when clipping it in? If this happens, the gate does not close and thus it significantly lowers the breaking load. However, I suppose this is usually not a problem for sport climbing since you are never secured by only one of them.
If you have more quick draws than you need for the route, you can also combine them to make extended draws made of 3 carabiners and 2 dog bones.
Good tip!
When you do this, you should avoid having the bolt end carabiner of one draw damaging the dog bone of the other. So remove the bolt end carabiner from the bottom draw and then join them together.
@@niallmurphy2163 I'm actually curious about this one, have there been break tests on carabiner on carabiner to see the results of what you are referring too? Pretty curious...
Excellent video - especially with the alpine quick draws for rope drag explanation. It's super helpful to see an honest, friendly description of how to climb with confidence and safety. Really dig your videos and authenticity you are bringing to the climbing community. I am a new climber coming from the surf community so these videos are great explanations so I can feel prepared before I climb with some more experienced buddies. 👍
Heck yeah buddy! I'm making these for people like you. Feel free to jump in this community if you want to ask me any questions. Theres actually another surfer in there whose learning and at the same stage as you www.skool.com/climb-clear-academy-6044
Cheers!
Expected you to have way more subscribers. Great video. Subscribed!
Thanks buddy, not yet haha but I’m happy to be providing value to even a few people :)
“No-notch” is also known as keylock nose btw. Nice video
Thanks buddy! Yeah I know haha..... I try to stay away from all the techy words to help out newer people. Some people who have english as their second language have reached out and thanked me for it. It gets a little crazy with all the words in climbing haha
Just buy the petzl spirit in the 17cm version. I use these for many years now and for me they are the best in term of weight, durability and handling. Also the price is not to crazy high. Besides I also have qd from other brands, but after many years of climbing the shape of the spirits are stil awesome compared to draws from black diamond, dmm Austrialpin. Really love it
Yeah those are good draws! 12cm has been pretty solid for my areas, that’s one thing I didn’t cover in this video but unless you have wandering routes 12cm is pretty solid from my experience
Really just down to preference, but I personally agree with the guy above. It’s only 6g difference to get the 17cm dogbone over the 11cm, but the extra length seems worth it.
Longer is better for wondering routes but also better for bad clipping stances, sometimes the FA put the bolt in a really annoying place to clip from, and it’s nice to extend it. Never had an issue where the draw was “too low” to clip, but I’ve had several instances where it was too high and I was clipping from crimps in a shitty stance instead of jugs in a nice stance. Especially for shorter climbers they’ll thank you for having longer draws.
Can also do the trick someone mentioned above of extending by clipping two dogbones together too if it’s especially heinous.
@@Chris-Wernette Yeah totally, lot of nuance involved. I try to stay away from "never" or "always" when teaching. This is simply what I do and how I think about things. Alpines have served me well in the scenerios you are talking about.
But honestly, I just bought the cheapest draws for my first set and learned all these things after climbing for years and trying out other ones.
Location is a huge factor too for sure. Different bolting in different places.
@@Chris-Wernette that's why I just have the 17cm as my basic draws and 25cm to complete. Don't wanne have three different types of draws on my harness.
@@mikafull I have the same setup :)
Great video! Super informative
I like petzl nylons prefer something without a nose camp has good ones
Yeah buddy, keylock (no notch) solid bent gate for clipping is the best in my opinion