Opposite experience. I couldn't unlock the carabiner at the ancor multiple times because under stress I tightened the lock too tight; Since then I mainly use autolocking carabiners when I build the ancor. And I watch my belayers before I trust my life in their hands... and the just little technical detail: grigri is not "autolocking", it is considered to be an assited breakinng device. The belayer should keep his/her hand on the breaking side of the rope at all times.
There are plenty of climbers who belay with an ATC all the time and are very good at it. But still some climbers will try to force a Grigri on them because they believe it's safer, even if the person don't know how to use it properly. This doesn't really have anything to do with this video, but just wanted to say I hate that sh*t 😄.
Why? It makes perfect sense. I hate that people object to this. ATC requires a serious amount of skill. Unless you know someone very well, you just don't know if they have that skill. There is no way for you to know how they will react under pressure or stress, even if they demonstrate they can do it right in a low-pressure situation. The grigri requires only one thing...that the brake strand is below the device,. That's it, if you do that, it will save your life. So it's not rocket science why people want you to use it. It's literally safer. It's kind of elitist to act like you're too good for one. People freak out under pressure all the time. What if the leader takes a fall close to you and ends up about to kick you in the face? WIll you let go of the brake? Do you even know? Are you really in charge of your own nervous system? Not really. So stop giving people a hard time about asking you to do the SAFE thing. P.S. if you know how to use an ATC, you know how to use a grigri, the fundamental principle is exactly the same.
@@geometerfpv2804 I have to disagree on the last part. I think grigri is plenty different than ATC. Giving slack to the leader and lowering especially. So if you have never used a grigri before you're going to give a shitty belay. So if the climber is experienced ATC user, I see no need to force them to use something they are not familiar with. I usually ask new partners how many years they have been climbing. That gives me a rough idea on how experienced they are. And I don't usually climb with people I don't trust.
Opposite experience. I couldn't unlock the carabiner at the ancor multiple times because under stress I tightened the lock too tight; Since then I mainly use autolocking carabiners when I build the ancor. And I watch my belayers before I trust my life in their hands... and the just little technical detail: grigri is not "autolocking", it is considered to be an assited breakinng device. The belayer should keep his/her hand on the breaking side of the rope at all times.
There are plenty of climbers who belay with an ATC all the time and are very good at it. But still some climbers will try to force a Grigri on them because they believe it's safer, even if the person don't know how to use it properly. This doesn't really have anything to do with this video, but just wanted to say I hate that sh*t 😄.
Why? It makes perfect sense. I hate that people object to this. ATC requires a serious amount of skill. Unless you know someone very well, you just don't know if they have that skill. There is no way for you to know how they will react under pressure or stress, even if they demonstrate they can do it right in a low-pressure situation.
The grigri requires only one thing...that the brake strand is below the device,. That's it, if you do that, it will save your life.
So it's not rocket science why people want you to use it. It's literally safer. It's kind of elitist to act like you're too good for one. People freak out under pressure all the time. What if the leader takes a fall close to you and ends up about to kick you in the face? WIll you let go of the brake? Do you even know? Are you really in charge of your own nervous system?
Not really. So stop giving people a hard time about asking you to do the SAFE thing.
P.S. if you know how to use an ATC, you know how to use a grigri, the fundamental principle is exactly the same.
@@geometerfpv2804 I have to disagree on the last part. I think grigri is plenty different than ATC. Giving slack to the leader and lowering especially. So if you have never used a grigri before you're going to give a shitty belay. So if the climber is experienced ATC user, I see no need to force them to use something they are not familiar with. I usually ask new partners how many years they have been climbing. That gives me a rough idea on how experienced they are. And I don't usually climb with people I don't trust.
Was the girl top belaying you on atc guide mode or was she using grigri?
ATC in guide mode, but setup wrong both times.... no bueno