In 2014 @johnoutdoorvideos and I started trad climbing, we each owned a single rack .5-3. It was enough gear to get us up most lines in the Red. Nowadays we probably own 2-3 of each size per person. SEW IT UP!!
It's funny, climbing here in the southwest UK we use way more nuts and rarely place cams. It's common to have a double set of nuts, and maybe only a few cams.
I like using the longer sewn runners/slings instead of quick draws. If you have 5 to 8 of those over your shoulder you’ll be in good shape. They come in clutch for reducing rope drag, they’re great for building anchors, and can be shortened to quick draw length quickly and easily. Cuts down on weight to. You’re using like half as many carabiners as you would with quick draws.
I find it harder and harder to recommend regular non-offset nuts even to beginner trad climbers, especially the very basic BD stoppers which feel like the worst of the options. I started with the Metolius curve nuts which are slightly offset and have a unique shape that whenever I go back to using a partner's regular BD nuts I find they just don't stay in place very well. People say the BD stoppers are "easy to clean" which to me means they suck at staying in the crack with an outward or upward tug. I have since got the BD offset stopper set and have a few DMM offset nuts I bootied that I added to the set, and I like that they fit placements that are significantly different from cam placements, much more so than non-offset nuts.
Find the reliance on cams in the states mind boggling. In the UK we use a very different approach, and generally most people will only climb with a single set of cams, probably from Blue to Yellow or Blue. Instead we carry a greater selection of wires, usually 2 full sets and many people will double up the larger sizes that you'd normally have a second set of cams for by using modern hexes like Torque Nuts. Infact many beginners would start with ONLY wires and Torque nuts as it's a far cheaper rack, giving you a greater selection. Wires are simple to place and clean, don't weigh as much and are perfect for many situations. Sure, once you're climbing at maybe 5.8 or above you'll want cams, but the idea that you need 2 or even 3 sets is bananas. I've climbed in quite a few areas in the states and always start out with your standard double rack, but after a while of hefting around all that stuff I just revert to what I'm used to and rarely did I have a problem. Sure if I'm going to climb some 50m splitter that might change...
What Do you think about hexes? I am a beginner in trad. I bought them in sizes roughly equivalent to the cam-sizes 0.75-3 And thought that they were cool because the can protect parallel cracks and are quite cheap.
Love my Hexes. Hexes don't exist much with the new kids starting today. We hardly ever hear the familiar cowbells clankin' away at the crag these days. Back in the day we used them more than cams ('cause who can afford cams when you cant afford life, right?) The Wife and I have this thing where it's not considered a "real climb" unless we place this one, specific, BD Red Hex For 14 years we managed to plsce it on at least one route every trip/outing. Then 5 or 6 years ago we lost it on approach to some long forgotten rout out in Red Rocks (Vegas). We can only hope that a Climber is still using his/her newfound booty on climbs to this day ...
@@SgtSnausages wheeeeee Hexes lets go. Thx for replying. I find them not as easy to place (obviously :D) but I will practice. Also, that tradition with your red hex sounds really fun! Tragic that it got lost. :o) But it takes its legacy on to the climbers who find it.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
3:00 "I finished building out my rack and then they released the ultralight versions" 😂 I felt that one. Always how it works
Ryan, appreciate you taking the time to make these educational videos. Thank you.
In 2014 @johnoutdoorvideos and I started trad climbing, we each owned a single rack .5-3. It was enough gear to get us up most lines in the Red. Nowadays we probably own 2-3 of each size per person. SEW IT UP!!
It's funny, climbing here in the southwest UK we use way more nuts and rarely place cams. It's common to have a double set of nuts, and maybe only a few cams.
I love hexes for my beginner trad rack. 6 cams, nuts, and hexes. Able to get up many routes safely!
I like using the longer sewn runners/slings instead of quick draws. If you have 5 to 8 of those over your shoulder you’ll be in good shape. They come in clutch for reducing rope drag, they’re great for building anchors, and can be shortened to quick draw length quickly and easily. Cuts down on weight to. You’re using like half as many carabiners as you would with quick draws.
I really appreciate this Ryan. Thank you!
13:49 DMM are the manufactures of Dragonfly cams 😉
DMM cams are the best
I find it harder and harder to recommend regular non-offset nuts even to beginner trad climbers, especially the very basic BD stoppers which feel like the worst of the options. I started with the Metolius curve nuts which are slightly offset and have a unique shape that whenever I go back to using a partner's regular BD nuts I find they just don't stay in place very well. People say the BD stoppers are "easy to clean" which to me means they suck at staying in the crack with an outward or upward tug. I have since got the BD offset stopper set and have a few DMM offset nuts I bootied that I added to the set, and I like that they fit placements that are significantly different from cam placements, much more so than non-offset nuts.
Find the reliance on cams in the states mind boggling. In the UK we use a very different approach, and generally most people will only climb with a single set of cams, probably from Blue to Yellow or Blue. Instead we carry a greater selection of wires, usually 2 full sets and many people will double up the larger sizes that you'd normally have a second set of cams for by using modern hexes like Torque Nuts. Infact many beginners would start with ONLY wires and Torque nuts as it's a far cheaper rack, giving you a greater selection. Wires are simple to place and clean, don't weigh as much and are perfect for many situations. Sure, once you're climbing at maybe 5.8 or above you'll want cams, but the idea that you need 2 or even 3 sets is bananas. I've climbed in quite a few areas in the states and always start out with your standard double rack, but after a while of hefting around all that stuff I just revert to what I'm used to and rarely did I have a problem. Sure if I'm going to climb some 50m splitter that might change...
Do you use any offsets? Was going through your cam blowout video and a few others? Thoughts on offsets?
awesome content! Thank you
Thank you Ryan, very useful!
Awesome tips - thanks
What Do you think about hexes?
I am a beginner in trad.
I bought them in sizes roughly equivalent to the cam-sizes 0.75-3
And thought that they were cool because the can protect parallel cracks and are quite cheap.
Love my Hexes.
Hexes don't exist much with the new kids starting today. We hardly ever hear the familiar cowbells clankin' away at the crag these days.
Back in the day we used them more than cams ('cause who can afford cams when you cant afford life, right?)
The Wife and I have this thing where it's not considered a "real climb" unless we place this one, specific, BD Red Hex
For 14 years we managed to plsce it on at least one route every trip/outing.
Then 5 or 6 years ago we lost it on approach to some long forgotten rout out in Red Rocks (Vegas).
We can only hope that a Climber is still using his/her newfound booty on climbs to this day ...
@@SgtSnausages
wheeeeee
Hexes lets go.
Thx for replying.
I find them not as easy to place (obviously :D) but I will practice.
Also, that tradition with your red hex sounds really fun!
Tragic that it got lost. :o) But it takes its legacy on to the climbers who find it.
How many Kilograms can 1Kn. Hold
225 lbs static
100kg