As an industrial mechanic, I appreciated the accuracy and cleanliness when you carried out the work. It is incredibly important to clean parts before assembling, sloppy jobs with dirty parts only mean that you have to redo the whole procedure at a later time. If you are careful and take your time, you can carry out such jobs better than a workshop with limited time will do. When I change wheels, I do an inspection of the wheel suspension and bushings, clean where I get to and lubricate rubber parts with silicone lubricant. I also check for corrosion, and treat this with epoxy primer. This will never be done in a workshop.
Thank you for this video. I was really struggling to get the 1/2" drive ratchet to unscrew the caliper bracket bolts. Knowing that I can unscrew the brake hose loose would have been so so helpful earlier today!
Taking out the 12mm bolt holding the brake line was the key for me getting the rear caliper off. Was in the middle of doing this job and looking at somehow taking off the parking brake cable but this was way easier.
Great video - really helpful when I am just about to embark on replacing the rear discs and pads on my 2012 Civic. Priceless advice - particularly regarding the method of pushing the calliper piston back by turning it. I’ve not come across that sort of piston arrangement before 👍
Using this video today. My mechanic expertise comes from 89 models and back so its a big help.lol i have a SI model so will comment later on the differences if there are any as i go. Thanks for the great video!
Going in to these went. Gosh 38mins... deffently the best bloody video out there.🥰 Great edits and no Suttering. Love wean people don't say "like,umm and uhh" as a broken record 😇
Great video with the thorough explanations. FWIW Honda service manual has you loosening up the parking brake lines (adjuster located in center console) but that’s a pain. I prefer this way better. Also just get the tool to push in the pistons !
Thanks for the detailed video! You mentioned a seized caliper, how did you remedy this issue and did you replace the caliper? I think my rear caliper slightly seized on me and wore the pad right down causing a terrible grinding sound everytime I use the brakes and deep grooves in the rotor. I'm looking at ordering pads and rotors but am thinking I may need a new caliper.
Thanks for the excellent video. I paid close attention to the video, and replaced the rear pads on my 2014 Civic today. One thing I noticed, the caliper slider pins are not identical. The lower slider pin has three flat areas (flutes?) that are the length of the pin. The upper slider pin is perfectly round. Interesting.
Great video. I had to do the rear brakes on a 2015 Civic EX and found that there are two size rotors for that vehicle, 260CM and 282CM. Always good to check the size before you order your rotors. Not sure why Honda uses two sizes.
You didn’t show placing the pads in, and I’ve found this to be the most tedious step, as many new pads will not fit with just the right pressure/movement, and require a little filing to get that just right feel vs forcing in and being too stiff. Good video
Changed my brakes on the 2015 si,just a tighter area than my older Honda's but only 2 bolts,loosen the brake nozzle on the calipers,pull out the old and install the new. I never used or rented the tool but the tool to reverse the caliper piston back in would be helpful with getting the new pads in.
I did these job 7 months ago. Now I know why my inner pad is wearing more that the outer one. I forgot to aligned the groove to the inner pad tab. I read that in the service manual, and still forgot it.
So before pumping the brake to then check for proper alignment with the caliper piston to the pad backing plate, both sides of the car need to be competed first? Or can I just do one side at a time?
Does the handbrake cable need to be detached from the caliper? In some videos they do, some they don’t. If not, does the handbrake need to be reset afterwards?
That nub that needs to fit into the piston is a pain in the ass. I don't know why it's needed at all. Just something to make a mistake on unless you know. Thanks for the video.
@@DIYManiacJohnP Thanks for the explanation ! I was shocked by the amount of corrosion on yours - I'm guessing they salt the roads wherever you live as mine are nowhere near as corroded and mine is a 2013 too.
You mentioned that the piston needs to be rotated clockwise in order to push it back in. When the hydraulic brakes are pressed, does the piston rotate counter clockwise as it squeezes the pad into the rotor and then clockwise a bit when the hydraulic brake is released? The same question goes for the mechanical (hand) brake. Does the piston rotate counter clockwise when the hand-brake is applied and then does the piston rotate clockwise when it is released? I am just trying to understand the every day function of the rotating piston when the caliper is in service. Thanks for your clarification....
jkrus10414 The piston does not rotate during normal breaking operation In theory the piston itself never rotates that’s why the locking pin on the back of the brake pad is there. The scroll gear on the inside of the calliper is there for the parking brake mechanism which turns and screws but not the actual piston itself
@@PhoneSpecificationsUSA Because you will damage the piston inside the caliper as it is designed to be this way. Unlike front brakes where you can stick a flat head screwdriver then push in the caliper pistons.
when you say grease... do you mean anti sieze.? because so far ive seen in all other tutorials people using copper anti sieze on the shims and ears of the pads
Hello man, I am currently doing this now and right at the beginning, the first two caliper bolts won’t even come off and slide with the wrench when I torque it. Do you have any suggestions for what I could maybe do? The bolts just won’t come off, it looks like it just won’t happen..
If you are certain you were trying to loosen the two appropriate bolts that hold on the slider pins, they will come off. Now, of course, time and corrosion could be working against you. You’re gonna need more leverage have you tried using a ratchet that’s longer?
@@DIYManiacJohnP I got those bolts off man! Somehow I ended up with five stripped lug nut studs after wheel assembly- it would not come back off due to stripped lug nuts so I had to yank them all off with vice grips. It was hell. so now I gotta replace all five on the wheel hub. This is not going as smooth as I thought after all lol.
@@DIYManiacJohnP Yes bro 😭 Replaced a total of 7 studs and I got the job done now! Sadly can’t send pics but it’s a nice looking power stop z23. Thank you for the help man I used your video for a guide.
my dumbass friend didn't align the groove with the pimple on the brake pad (35:00) when he did my brake, which caused my brake fluid to leak. That costed me 500 bucks to replace. Also, evetime I press brake, it makes squeaky sound on the rear. Lesson learned. Do it on your own or take your car to a professional.
Хобби
![Natanael Cano x Oscar Maydon - Giza [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eXCS6-MSQ_Y/mqdefault.jpg)
The info on the sliders helped me better understand the brake components. After inspection I determined my boots needed replacement.
As an industrial mechanic, I appreciated the accuracy and cleanliness when you carried out the work. It is incredibly important to clean parts before assembling, sloppy jobs with dirty parts only mean that you have to redo the whole procedure at a later time. If you are careful and take your time, you can carry out such jobs better than a workshop with limited time will do. When I change wheels, I do an inspection of the wheel suspension and bushings, clean where I get to and lubricate rubber parts with silicone lubricant. I also check for corrosion, and treat this with epoxy primer. This will never be done in a workshop.
Couldn’t agree more thank you for watching
I just installed my back brakes for my 2013 Civic SI! and I'm a female! Anybody can do it. Thanks to this video!
Excellent video . Although your videos are long , they're comprehensive and pretty much covered every issue i faced
Wonderful video. You did a great job at narrating this. Cant wait to see more 9th civic tutorials!
ngemu thank you so much for the kind words
@@DIYManiacJohnP maybe in the future you can do a hard wire dash cam install video?
Thank you for this video. I was really struggling to get the 1/2" drive ratchet to unscrew the caliper bracket bolts. Knowing that I can unscrew the brake hose loose would have been so so helpful earlier today!
wonderful video. Covered every tiny specs needed as possible.
Thank you for watching
Taking out the 12mm bolt holding the brake line was the key for me getting the rear caliper off. Was in the middle of doing this job and looking at somehow taking off the parking brake cable but this was way easier.
Great video - really helpful when I am just about to embark on replacing the rear discs and pads on my 2012 Civic. Priceless advice - particularly regarding the method of pushing the calliper piston back by turning it. I’ve not come across that sort of piston arrangement before 👍
Thanks for this video. Appreciate your time you took to do this!!! 👏🏽👍🏽
Using this video today. My mechanic expertise comes from 89 models and back so its a big help.lol i have a SI model so will comment later on the differences if there are any as i go. Thanks for the great video!
Eh, SI owner here! Were there any differences?
@@davidking7099same here
@@Gamersquadttttaseems he didnt comment the differences; im assuming/hoping there are none lol
@@Slatinum_bookies I don’t think so
I drilled my front rotor screw out. Thing stripped. Thanks for the video man im ready to do my rears
Incase anyone wants to know specific torque specs:
Rear brake caliper bolts are 23nm / 17ft lbs
Rear brake caliper bracket bolts are 75nm / 55ft lbs
Your video helped me, I did my brakes on my 2013 Si. Thanks!
Thanks for watching
Are they basically same concept even though we have the SI?
Going in to these went. Gosh 38mins... deffently the best bloody video out there.🥰
Great edits and no Suttering. Love wean people don't say "like,umm and uhh" as a broken record 😇
Great video with the thorough explanations. FWIW Honda service manual has you loosening up the parking brake lines (adjuster located in center console) but that’s a pain. I prefer this way better. Also just get the tool to push in the pistons !
Best video I have seen, great detail and tips, thanks.
Detailed and great quality.
That was fantastic. Thanks for this
Thanks for watching
Good explanation on your video. Thanks
Great detail video. I shall try mine as it is locking when I brake
Finally I did my rear brakes and front brakes. Installation was a breeze after viewing you video. Thanks a million.
Thank you so much for the kind words
fantastic video, great detail, but not over my head. thanks
Thank you for the kind words and for watching
Great video!
Thank you for show us l like see your video the best show because you show step by step thank you again
5⭐ video, extremely helpful. Thanks, my guy. Liked and Subscribed.
Thank you so much
Great video! Subbed!
very professional thanks
Very informative video.
Thanks for the detailed video! You mentioned a seized caliper, how did you remedy this issue and did you replace the caliper? I think my rear caliper slightly seized on me and wore the pad right down causing a terrible grinding sound everytime I use the brakes and deep grooves in the rotor. I'm looking at ordering pads and rotors but am thinking I may need a new caliper.
Can you please make more videos on the 2013 honda civic? This is one of the best videos on rear pads.
Yes please
Thanks for the excellent video. I paid close attention to the video, and replaced the rear pads on my 2014 Civic today. One thing I noticed, the caliper slider pins are not identical. The lower slider pin has three flat areas (flutes?) that are the length of the pin. The upper slider pin is perfectly round. Interesting.
Great video
Thank you so much
Great video. I had to do the rear brakes on a 2015 Civic EX and found that there are two size rotors for that vehicle, 260CM and 282CM. Always good to check the size before you order your rotors. Not sure why Honda uses two sizes.
SI has bigger performance brakes
1.4 petrol is 260mm, 1.8 petrol and all diesel models use 282mm
Awesome video....I need the torque specs for a 2014 Civic
Many thanks
Very nice great video
Thank you for watching
You didn’t show placing the pads in, and I’ve found this to be the most tedious step, as many new pads will not fit with just the right pressure/movement, and require a little filing to get that just right feel vs forcing in and being too stiff.
Good video
Hi there, thank you for your very helpful video. Do you know the Raybestos part number for the front pads and rotors too please?
Are the inboard pads side specific? Is there any significance to that other pimple on that back of the pad? The one on the side?
Does the 2013 Honda Civic ex base model use rotator or drum rear brakes ?
Changed my brakes on the 2015 si,just a tighter area than my older Honda's but only 2 bolts,loosen the brake nozzle on the calipers,pull out the old and install the new. I never used or rented the tool but the tool to reverse the caliper piston back in would be helpful with getting the new pads in.
Hey. I also have a 2015 Si, do you mind if i contact you. I have a few questions if you don't mind.
@@jayej forsure
thanks for the video! the tips for the rear caliper piston just saved me a headache now going into this job with that knowledge!
Do you know the part number of the brake calipers by any chance?
Is it clockwise for both sides?
I noticed you didn't spray anything with brake cleaner? Others do??? Just want to confirm.
Also what typr of grease do you recommend?
I did these job 7 months ago. Now I know why my inner pad is wearing more that the outer one. I forgot to aligned the groove to the inner pad tab. I read that in the service manual, and still forgot it.
Happens a lot.
So before pumping the brake to then check for proper alignment with the caliper piston to the pad backing plate, both sides of the car need to be competed first? Or can I just do one side at a time?
One side at a time works as well
Does the handbrake cable need to be detached from the caliper? In some videos they do, some they don’t. If not, does the handbrake need to be reset afterwards?
It can be left attached
I think the holes where i mount my caliper bracket have little to no thread. Is it shot??? Do i need a knew knuckle?
Best option would be a new knuckle. Otherwise you can drill them out and install a helicoil. But being brake component I would advise against that.
That nub that needs to fit into the piston is a pain in the ass. I don't know why it's needed at all. Just something to make a mistake on unless you know. Thanks for the video.
Due to the parking brake setup, the piston has a ratcheting action. The nub is there to stop the piston from just spinning.
@@DIYManiacJohnP Thanks for the explanation ! I was shocked by the amount of corrosion on yours - I'm guessing they salt the roads wherever you live as mine are nowhere near as corroded and mine is a 2013 too.
@@regwatson2017 Quebec Canada. Lots of salt lol
I have a 2015 civic Si manual transmission. Fixing to replace rear brake pads. I assume the E brake needs to be off??
I really enjoyed your video. Haven’t found anything as informative for a civic SI. Great vid.
Yes the Ebrake will need to be disengaged
Can you share a coopy of your torque specs chart
Please feel free to email me. Email addy in channel description
How many miles / Kilometers were on this car when you changed these brakes?
jkrus10414 60,000 km
You mentioned that the piston needs to be rotated clockwise in order to push it back in. When the hydraulic brakes are pressed, does the piston rotate counter clockwise as it squeezes the pad into the rotor and then clockwise a bit when the hydraulic brake is released? The same question goes for the mechanical (hand) brake. Does the piston rotate counter clockwise when the hand-brake is applied and then does the piston rotate clockwise when it is released? I am just trying to understand the every day function of the rotating piston when the caliper is in service. Thanks for your clarification....
jkrus10414 The piston does not rotate during normal breaking operation In theory the piston itself never rotates that’s why the locking pin on the back of the brake pad is there. The scroll gear on the inside of the calliper is there for the parking brake mechanism which turns and screws but not the actual piston itself
@@DIYManiacJohnP If that is the case, then why does the piston need to be rotated in order to push it back into the caliper?
jkrus10414 cf.linnbenton.edu/eit/auto/ehlersr/upload/Servicing%20Front%20Brake%20Calipers%20-%20All.pdf
@@PhoneSpecificationsUSA
Because you will damage the piston inside the caliper as it is designed to be this way. Unlike front brakes where you can stick a flat head screwdriver then push in the caliper pistons.
@@DIYManiacJohnP Very much appreciate the citing of a source to go along with your careful explanations. Thank you.
when you say grease... do you mean anti sieze.? because so far ive seen in all other tutorials people using copper anti sieze on the shims and ears of the pads
High temp brake grease.
Is it necessary to bleed the brakes when replacing them or not necessary?
Brakes should be bleed/flushed every three years
Hello man, I am currently doing this now and right at the beginning, the first two caliper bolts won’t even come off and slide with the wrench when I torque it. Do you have any suggestions for what I could maybe do? The bolts just won’t come off, it looks like it just won’t happen..
My bad only one* not both of the bolts
If you are certain you were trying to loosen the two appropriate bolts that hold on the slider pins, they will come off. Now, of course, time and corrosion could be working against you. You’re gonna need more leverage have you tried using a ratchet that’s longer?
@@DIYManiacJohnP I got those bolts off man! Somehow I ended up with five stripped lug nut studs after wheel assembly- it would not come back off due to stripped lug nuts so I had to yank them all off with vice grips. It was hell. so now I gotta replace all five on the wheel hub. This is not going as smooth as I thought after all lol.
All 5 were stripped??? Sorry to hear that. What a pain
@@DIYManiacJohnP Yes bro 😭 Replaced a total of 7 studs and I got the job done now! Sadly can’t send pics but it’s a nice looking power stop z23. Thank you for the help man I used your video for a guide.
Can you please send me torque list?
Please email me at diymaniacjp@gmail(dot)com
my dumbass friend didn't align the groove with the pimple on the brake pad (35:00) when he did my brake, which caused my brake fluid to leak. That costed me 500 bucks to replace. Also, evetime I press brake, it makes squeaky sound on the rear. Lesson learned. Do it on your own or take your car to a professional.
You lost me when you said Lefty Lucy, righty tighty.. 🤦🏼♂️😵💫
“Loosey”, as in loose.