With the Reaper Gen II you dont have to use the madbull red shark btw. With gen I it definately helps. This however means that you can use the superior maple leaf buckings like the monster for flatter trajectories. In your case, with rhop it wouldnt matter much anyway. You could be getting sub-1 fps variance however with a gen ii... I do with my gen i and the madbull red shark when perfectly aligned (I designed a 3D printed part for this, dont rely on the gearbox). But Reaper M (Gen ii) MTW is currently not performing well because of the faulty hopup but I did manage to get sub 2 fps variance when using the maple leaf monster and a prowin from my other gun. How does single shot differ from burst? In my tests the Reaper does much better with a bigger delay between shots (I also make my own custom FCU with custom programming)
There're a few gameplay videos in my channel with Reaper Gen II & ML Super Macaron. I'm not impressed with the bbs flight trajectory and grouping both on semy and 3 round burst although it shows rock solid shot-to-shot consistency and 1-2 FPS variance... Here the IR-hop patches are new. They still need at least 3-4000 more bbs to break-in. And I had to do some ugly modding of the hopup arm - the M-nub was not tall enough to press the patch and lift the 0.40g. I'm sure the results would be better when I 3D print my own arm specifically for this R-hop setup. I prefer the Madbull Red for these R-hops because it gives me better bb positioning inside the hopup compared with every other bucking that I tested with my MTW - Prommy purple, G&G green, Modify Batton Ryusoku, Maple Leaf Macaron/Super Macaron/Hybrid...
@@NikolayDimitrovFisher Thats awesome information. I dont use the maple leaf nub on mine, I found out about a year ago that Frozen77 (makes wolverine hpa videos) sells a resin solid nub that is flawless via his "Target Systems" facebook page. Its awesome and works really well. Its about half a milimeter thicker than the maple leaf nub but otherwise its almost the same shape (i think its a tad flatter and seems to match the bucking "roundness" better when looking through the naked eye). Its night and day difference just changing from maple leaf nub to that, instantly flatter trajectories. I never got an Rhop that I was satisfied with. So perhaps thats the main difference. The madbull red shark rubber sucks compared with the maple leaf one but the lip design works better with the reaper gen i (my experience so far). So going for hrop would definately give the "best of both worlds" setup. Where do you get your rhops? I tried making mine but eventually gave up. Only 2 out of about 50 worked correctly and the hop adjustment was very finicky (it was either too much or too little, never quite right). I need to test your setup :D
@@tswdev Thanks :) I personally like the R-hop because it's more of a "set it and forget it" approach. You don't worry about the weather or whether the bucking is in good shape and it's not worn out. And with every use it's getting better and better in terms of consistency in applying the hop effect. I cut and install the patches by myself from AFAIK the same tubing used for the Hunterseeker5's original IR-hop (www.mcmaster.com/5054K542). In the beginning, when I start messing with them (Y2014), my success rate was ~ 10%. Every 10th install was OK (not perfect, but OK). At the moment it's ~ 75% and the performance is far better. The crucial factors for perfect results as I found lately were: 1) the soft M-nub (www.mcmaster.com/5109K31-5109K31). With M-nub you have very precise adjustment range even with the 'clicky' hopup chambers (e.g. VFC 'rotary" style for M4). The harder nubs (Maxx aluminum concave, Retro Arms plastic concave) are not so forgiving and can drive you crazy. 2) gluing the patch to the barrel preventing its side-to-side shifting when it's pressed down by the nub. If you want to give a second chance to R-hop consider using the Spin Rate Engineering tools (www.shapeways.com/shops/energetic-concepts), they're priceless and can take away the pain when it comes to cuting & shaping the patches... But I don't know if it's worth it when there's a such a variety in R-hop-like buckings on the market - MR-hop, Tru-hop, TR-hop, SRS buckings, Super Macaron...
@@NikolayDimitrovFisher Thanks for the tips, its invaluable! From those buckings the ones i tested are SRS buckings and Super Macaron. The super macaron is very good but it didnt work well on MTWs i have seen while the macaron does work quite well. On a stock krytac (no hpa) the super macaron works very well though. I am not sure why for hpa macaron and monster work well but super macaron doesnt... :/ For SRS, which i also have, the SRS bucking are marvelous, really really good. I tried fitting an SRS bucking on my krytac, didnt go well :P Not compatible, too thick. Thanks for the links btw, will definately check those out.
@@tswdev Very nice info from both of you gents, I myself have a polarstar kythera in a krytac body, maxx model hop up chamber, ML 370mm 6.02 barrel with a BL mr hop rubber 60*. And it is very accurate. I have had thoughts about building a R hop setup but the ML mr hop rubbers are just so damn good. I use TNT hop rubbers in my krytac AEG and the are also performing very well.
For up to 1.7 J they both will provide a similar performance with the flathop being the easier one for install. The same is valid for other hopup R-hop-like buckings - Tru Hop, TR-hop, Maple Leaf Super/Macaron/MR hop, SRS... The IR-hop is more time and nerve consuming for setup and it's picky when you have to choose a nub to pair with. I have achieved the best results with the softer M-nub (photos.app.goo.gl/7trgJwM9o8p4tK8F9). With flathop you have a wide selection of nubs (photos.app.goo.gl/tUVaAa1RJy8Uo38b8) and in most cases you don't have to irreversibly mod the hopup arm to work with these nubs. Overall, if you take your time and patience to install the IR-hop with the required precision it will give you the best possible performance in long term.
So get this @FisherORL I just purchased the reaper Gen 2. Like literally 1 week ago received it . Let me first start off with it shoots very accurately with pheonix chamber. And wayyyyyy quieter like extremely noticeable quieter than the inferno 2 . But here’s where my two problems are. I use epm 1 pts mags and it gets jammed up in a .05 Pdi barrel with a 75 degree maple. But wait! That’s not all, the jamming can be cleared by the 3 shot burst setting I have on it . But the jamming isn’t that much of a concern, the major concern is my Jules. I’m running the forged mtw with premium electronic and FCU- Dwell set to Max Redline mini SFR set to 120psi It gets 292 fps with .36 but Jules are only .98 or .99 I can’t even get it to a jule?? Help
It did improve the air seal, but still only .99 of a jule specifically, the bucking I wouldn’t imagine would do too to much, since the pressure is up to 120 either way it should be reaching beyond 1.55 Jules and I can’t even get it to that.. phoenix hop is sealed pretty well still unsure what to make of it
@@keenanjennings7697 with these results definitely the softness of the bucking isn't the main factor. Did you try to set the Phoenix to create just enough (but not too much) bucking lips resistance when loading the bb?
Bautiful accuracy! I recently bought mtw inferno and I can't find the right bucking, I haven't tested the red madbull yet. Have you also experienced midcap syndrome on other bucking ?
Inferno but you need to properly set the dwell depending on the joule output and bb weight. Excessive air will increase the sound footprint, albeit slightly. A silencer with suitable inserts is a must and will have a more significant effect.
@@NikolayDimitrovFisher Thanks for your reply! Interesting, I've read the reaper should be more silent on paper as in this video: ruclips.net/video/iTiBZSJEjW0/видео.html But you seem to be quite a skilled hpa tech so I believe you. Is any of your other brand engines even quieter?
@@kaj160 with the Reaper Gen II I had to increase the input PSI to 110 to reach the desired joule output - 1.65J with 0.32g bbs. Same output with the Inferno Gen 2 is achievable with 90 PSI. in my case the Inferno is slightly more quieter :) Otherwise, the Polarstar Kythera is ridiculously silent if you manage to drown out the mechanical sound from the trigger. The comparison is made with the same silencer and at the same joule output.
Based on my observations & testing with MTW's Inferno, Reaper Gen II and Reaper M I wouldn't say that there's any significant difference between those engines in terms of accuracy in semi fire mode.
Have Reaper M as well and agree it is really picky. Only reason why I could ever justify chosing this engine would be because you want the forged milspec version MTW, slightly better FPS consistancy or rule out electronics. You will get harsh trigger, semi only and mag compatibility issues due to fixed engine/feedtube bracket in return. @Fisher ORL Probs for the video(s) on the MTW setups!! This gives such an honest view on range and accuracy. Everyone claims 70+ meters at 1J, but this shows real and really impressive results! You should try the new small cnc SRS nub by stalker and cnc arm by silentindustries with 2021 MR-hop. A real pain to find hopup sweet spot, but once found it gives extremely consistant hop (accuracy). Has anyone ever figured out why every regulator has a jump in FPS every 6-8 shots? It is a nightmare as DMR. Never hear anyone talk about it, but video's all show same issue regardless of regulator used.
@@RCustoms thanks, appreciate it. I wanted to show how my MTW shoots and everyone to judge for themselves whether it is a good or mediocre result. I have both v1 & v2 CNC arms from Silent Industries but didn't find time to test them with the Super Macaron & MR Hop buckings. I'm happy with the R-hop and I'll leave it like that... at least for now :)
Nice video mate. Just wondering one thing though. How the hell do you get higher joule in the lambda setup when the barrel is both shorter and wider bore? and also on lower psi? That just does not add up to me.
The engines in both tests are different. The Reaper is a fixed volume engine and needs a higher input PSI to reach the same joule output as Inferno (direct solenoid fire engine).
Oh I see, I have a kythera and a fusion engine, and its the same effect, less joule creep with the kythera. I just did not realize it was two different engines in them. Nice video dude.
Hi my reaper gen 2 just makes problems. i have the electromechanical version and it doesnt feed heavier bbs. 0.20 feed perfect but as soon as i put something heavier in it i have issues with feeding. dwell is set to the maximum level output is 120 psi i test madbull shark red bucking modify baton and several maple leaf buckings so frustrating as soon as i wobble a little on the magazine it sound like some bbs will be pressed up into the hopuo unit und it shoots 2-3 shots but thats it standard magazines used btw maybe u have a tip for me🫤
@@richardschulz6284 what model MTW do you have? Billet gen1, Forged or Billet gen2? And do you use the stock hopup chamber? Do you notice any changes in the shape of the feed tube (not circle but more like an oval)?
@@NikolayDimitrovFisher reaper gen 2 billet stock hop up i have tried to use the phoenix chamber but that made everything even worse the shape of the feed tube looks normal
Thats how we want to have a range test in airsoft to be.
With the Reaper Gen II you dont have to use the madbull red shark btw. With gen I it definately helps. This however means that you can use the superior maple leaf buckings like the monster for flatter trajectories. In your case, with rhop it wouldnt matter much anyway. You could be getting sub-1 fps variance however with a gen ii... I do with my gen i and the madbull red shark when perfectly aligned (I designed a 3D printed part for this, dont rely on the gearbox). But Reaper M (Gen ii) MTW is currently not performing well because of the faulty hopup but I did manage to get sub 2 fps variance when using the maple leaf monster and a prowin from my other gun.
How does single shot differ from burst? In my tests the Reaper does much better with a bigger delay between shots (I also make my own custom FCU with custom programming)
There're a few gameplay videos in my channel with Reaper Gen II & ML Super Macaron. I'm not impressed with the bbs flight trajectory and grouping both on semy and 3 round burst although it shows rock solid shot-to-shot consistency and 1-2 FPS variance... Here the IR-hop patches are new. They still need at least 3-4000 more bbs to break-in. And I had to do some ugly modding of the hopup arm - the M-nub was not tall enough to press the patch and lift the 0.40g. I'm sure the results would be better when I 3D print my own arm specifically for this R-hop setup.
I prefer the Madbull Red for these R-hops because it gives me better bb positioning inside the hopup compared with every other bucking that I tested with my MTW - Prommy purple, G&G green, Modify Batton Ryusoku, Maple Leaf Macaron/Super Macaron/Hybrid...
@@NikolayDimitrovFisher Thats awesome information. I dont use the maple leaf nub on mine, I found out about a year ago that Frozen77 (makes wolverine hpa videos) sells a resin solid nub that is flawless via his "Target Systems" facebook page. Its awesome and works really well. Its about half a milimeter thicker than the maple leaf nub but otherwise its almost the same shape (i think its a tad flatter and seems to match the bucking "roundness" better when looking through the naked eye). Its night and day difference just changing from maple leaf nub to that, instantly flatter trajectories. I never got an Rhop that I was satisfied with. So perhaps thats the main difference. The madbull red shark rubber sucks compared with the maple leaf one but the lip design works better with the reaper gen i (my experience so far). So going for hrop would definately give the "best of both worlds" setup. Where do you get your rhops? I tried making mine but eventually gave up. Only 2 out of about 50 worked correctly and the hop adjustment was very finicky (it was either too much or too little, never quite right). I need to test your setup :D
@@tswdev Thanks :) I personally like the R-hop because it's more of a "set it and forget it" approach. You don't worry about the weather or whether the bucking is in good shape and it's not worn out. And with every use it's getting better and better in terms of consistency in applying the hop effect.
I cut and install the patches by myself from AFAIK the same tubing used for the Hunterseeker5's original IR-hop (www.mcmaster.com/5054K542). In the beginning, when I start messing with them (Y2014), my success rate was ~ 10%. Every 10th install was OK (not perfect, but OK). At the moment it's ~ 75% and the performance is far better. The crucial factors for perfect results as I found lately were:
1) the soft M-nub (www.mcmaster.com/5109K31-5109K31). With M-nub you have very precise adjustment range even with the 'clicky' hopup chambers (e.g. VFC 'rotary" style for M4). The harder nubs (Maxx aluminum concave, Retro Arms plastic concave) are not so forgiving and can drive you crazy.
2) gluing the patch to the barrel preventing its side-to-side shifting when it's pressed down by the nub.
If you want to give a second chance to R-hop consider using the Spin Rate Engineering tools (www.shapeways.com/shops/energetic-concepts), they're priceless and can take away the pain when it comes to cuting & shaping the patches... But I don't know if it's worth it when there's a such a variety in R-hop-like buckings on the market - MR-hop, Tru-hop, TR-hop, SRS buckings, Super Macaron...
@@NikolayDimitrovFisher Thanks for the tips, its invaluable! From those buckings the ones i tested are SRS buckings and Super Macaron. The super macaron is very good but it didnt work well on MTWs i have seen while the macaron does work quite well. On a stock krytac (no hpa) the super macaron works very well though. I am not sure why for hpa macaron and monster work well but super macaron doesnt... :/ For SRS, which i also have, the SRS bucking are marvelous, really really good. I tried fitting an SRS bucking on my krytac, didnt go well :P Not compatible, too thick. Thanks for the links btw, will definately check those out.
@@tswdev Very nice info from both of you gents, I myself have a polarstar kythera in a krytac body, maxx model hop up chamber, ML 370mm 6.02 barrel with a BL mr hop rubber 60*. And it is very accurate. I have had thoughts about building a R hop setup but the ML mr hop rubbers are just so damn good. I use TNT hop rubbers in my krytac AEG and the are also performing very well.
Very nice video of airsoft hight level accuracy. God job mate. What´s your opinion on flat hop vs IR hop?
For up to 1.7 J they both will provide a similar performance with the flathop being the easier one for install. The same is valid for other hopup R-hop-like buckings - Tru Hop, TR-hop, Maple Leaf Super/Macaron/MR hop, SRS... The IR-hop is more time and nerve consuming for setup and it's picky when you have to choose a nub to pair with. I have achieved the best results with the softer M-nub (photos.app.goo.gl/7trgJwM9o8p4tK8F9). With flathop you have a wide selection of nubs (photos.app.goo.gl/tUVaAa1RJy8Uo38b8) and in most cases you don't have to irreversibly mod the hopup arm to work with these nubs. Overall, if you take your time and patience to install the IR-hop with the required precision it will give you the best possible performance in long term.
So get this @FisherORL
I just purchased the reaper Gen 2. Like literally 1 week ago received it . Let me first start off with it shoots very accurately with pheonix chamber. And wayyyyyy quieter like extremely noticeable quieter than the inferno 2 . But here’s where my two problems are. I use epm 1 pts mags and it gets jammed up in a .05 Pdi barrel with a 75 degree maple. But wait! That’s not all, the jamming can be cleared by the 3 shot burst setting I have on it .
But the jamming isn’t that much of a concern, the major concern is my Jules.
I’m running the forged mtw with premium electronic and FCU- Dwell set to Max
Redline mini SFR set to 120psi
It gets 292 fps with .36 but Jules are only .98 or .99 I can’t even get it to a jule?? Help
Try with softer bucking, e.g. 60° Madbull or G&G "green" just to check if this will improve the air seal.
It did improve the air seal, but still only .99 of a jule specifically, the bucking I wouldn’t imagine would do too to much, since the pressure is up to 120 either way it should be reaching beyond 1.55 Jules and I can’t even get it to that.. phoenix hop is sealed pretty well still unsure what to make of it
@@keenanjennings7697 with these results definitely the softness of the bucking isn't the main factor. Did you try to set the Phoenix to create just enough (but not too much) bucking lips resistance when loading the bb?
only part i would change on the video is i would do semi auto instead of busting the whole time for part of the video to show consistency
Next time I'll do semi as well :)
Bautiful accuracy! I recently bought mtw inferno and I can't find the right bucking, I haven't tested the red madbull yet. Have you also experienced midcap syndrome on other bucking ?
Yes, with every other bucking with the stock chamber. Only with madbull red the midcap syndrome is almost gone.
Have you tried on other chambers?
Only the stock one and the Phoenix. I have better results with the stock hopup.
Great video man! Which one would you recommend for stealthier playstyle (more silent)? It seems inferno is more quiet. Thanks!
Inferno but you need to properly set the dwell depending on the joule output and bb weight. Excessive air will increase the sound footprint, albeit slightly. A silencer with suitable inserts is a must and will have a more significant effect.
@@NikolayDimitrovFisher Thanks for your reply! Interesting, I've read the reaper should be more silent on paper as in this video: ruclips.net/video/iTiBZSJEjW0/видео.html But you seem to be quite a skilled hpa tech so I believe you. Is any of your other brand engines even quieter?
@@kaj160 with the Reaper Gen II I had to increase the input PSI to 110 to reach the desired joule output - 1.65J with 0.32g bbs. Same output with the Inferno Gen 2 is achievable with 90 PSI. in my case the Inferno is slightly more quieter :)
Otherwise, the Polarstar Kythera is ridiculously silent if you manage to drown out the mechanical sound from the trigger. The comparison is made with the same silencer and at the same joule output.
i have the reaper m and it is really concerning how much better the inferno perfoms for me
Based on my observations & testing with MTW's Inferno, Reaper Gen II and Reaper M I wouldn't say that there's any significant difference between those engines in terms of accuracy in semi fire mode.
Have Reaper M as well and agree it is really picky. Only reason why I could ever justify chosing this engine would be because you want the forged milspec version MTW, slightly better FPS consistancy or rule out electronics. You will get harsh trigger, semi only and mag compatibility issues due to fixed engine/feedtube bracket in return.
@Fisher ORL Probs for the video(s) on the MTW setups!! This gives such an honest view on range and accuracy. Everyone claims 70+ meters at 1J, but this shows real and really impressive results! You should try the new small cnc SRS nub by stalker and cnc arm by silentindustries with 2021 MR-hop. A real pain to find hopup sweet spot, but once found it gives extremely consistant hop (accuracy).
Has anyone ever figured out why every regulator has a jump in FPS every 6-8 shots? It is a nightmare as DMR. Never hear anyone talk about it, but video's all show same issue regardless of regulator used.
@@RCustoms thanks, appreciate it. I wanted to show how my MTW shoots and everyone to judge for themselves whether it is a good or mediocre result.
I have both v1 & v2 CNC arms from Silent Industries but didn't find time to test them with the Super Macaron & MR Hop buckings. I'm happy with the R-hop and I'll leave it like that... at least for now :)
Nice video mate. Just wondering one thing though. How the hell do you get higher joule in the lambda setup when the barrel is both shorter and wider bore? and also on lower psi? That just does not add up to me.
The engines in both tests are different. The Reaper is a fixed volume engine and needs a higher input PSI to reach the same joule output as Inferno (direct solenoid fire engine).
Oh I see, I have a kythera and a fusion engine, and its the same effect, less joule creep with the kythera. I just did not realize it was two different engines in them. Nice video dude.
what was the actual distance?
61 m. / 200 ft. ... At 0:10 you can see the measuring with a range finder.
Please can you do something like this but in semi auto please
Soon.
🤑🤫
Too less energy for 0,40 BBs or too heavy BBs for the 1,6j. Bring the power up!
0.40 are a bit heavy for 1.6 J, yes. But rhop doesn't have any problem to lift them up with acceptable level of grouping :)
@@NikolayDimitrovFisher Do u have a 1,6j-Limit in ur country or why u test it with that energyrange. Greetz
@@stephger1925 Yes, 1.7 J is the limit for assault rifle here.
Hi my reaper gen 2 just makes problems.
i have the electromechanical version and it doesnt feed heavier bbs.
0.20 feed perfect but as soon as i put something heavier in it i have issues with feeding.
dwell is set to the maximum level
output is 120 psi
i test madbull shark red bucking
modify baton
and several maple leaf buckings
so frustrating
as soon as i wobble a little on the magazine it sound like some bbs will be pressed up into the hopuo unit und it shoots 2-3 shots
but thats it
standard magazines used btw
maybe u have a tip for me🫤
By "standard magazines" you mean the MTW ones? Have you tried other magazines?
@@NikolayDimitrovFisher yeah the mtw magazines
i have tried amoeba magazines too but they also doesnt work
i also tried to lengthen a magazine spring to put more pressure on the bbs but this made no difference
@@richardschulz6284 what model MTW do you have? Billet gen1, Forged or Billet gen2? And do you use the stock hopup chamber? Do you notice any changes in the shape of the feed tube (not circle but more like an oval)?
@@NikolayDimitrovFisher reaper gen 2 billet
stock hop up
i have tried to use the phoenix chamber but that made everything even worse
the shape of the feed tube looks normal