Upgrading A Klipsch R10SW R100SW R101SW Subwoofer Part 4/4
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
- #GenerationBehindHiFi #Klipsch #subwoofer #diyaudio #audiophile
I have finally found an amplifier for my FrankenKlipsch subwoofer (Klipsch R10SW)! Hopefully this new amplifier will give me the power that I need to out drag my REL HT 1205 and SVS SB 3000. Will it?
I know this video is a bit long, but I had a lot to cover and hopefully it will put some clarity on what I went through during this project. No doubt, I learned a lot from this project and it was a lot of fun, but there is still one major issue I need to resolve, port chuffing. If this video gets enough likes (interest), then I might do a FrankenKlipsch V2 series where I resolve the port chuffing once and for all.
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Below is the parts list I used on my Klipsch R10SW cabinet.
Sound dampening material (Generic Dynamat): amzn.to/3Nk29nJ
PVC pipe: amzn.to/3qUVLfp
90 degree elbow: www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte...
Flared port: amzn.to/4427mYs
Blu-Tack (great for making gaskets and sealing port hole): amzn.to/3CC3DoL
Black paint: amzn.to/42R9gtP
Dayton Audio DATS v3: amzn.to/43PBZAu
SVS isolation feet: amzn.to/3CFhj2c
WinISD download: www.linearteam.org/
Driver: Martin Logan Dynamo 700W
My videos about upgrading speakers can be found here: • My playlist about upgr...
My look inside videos on speakers can be found here: • My Look Inside Videos
My videos about subwoofers can be found here: • My playlist about subw...
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Below is the parts list I used on my Klipsch R10SW cabinet.
Sound dampening material (Generic Dynamat): amzn.to/3Nk29nJ
PVC pipe: amzn.to/3qUVLfp
90 degree elbow: www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-4-in-PVC-DWV-90-Degree-Hub-x-Hub-Elbow-PVC003001400HD/203393427
Flared port: amzn.to/4427mYs
Blu-Tack (great for making gaskets and sealing port hole): amzn.to/3CC3DoL
Black paint: amzn.to/42R9gtP
Dayton Audio DATS v3: amzn.to/43PBZAu
SVS isolation feet: amzn.to/3CFhj2c
WinISD download: www.linearteam.org/
Driver: Martin Logan Dynamo 700W
My videos about upgrading speakers can be found here: ruclips.net/p/PLg0Xq1LbiZBV3JdrXQtMPgv3Lc6YB6fdr
Yeah, it's hard for a sealed design to beat a ported one in SPL.
Fun project! :)
Thanks, Justin! Yeah, I had a lot of fun doing this and learned a lot from it. Now I just need to figure out the port chuffing. I didn't have the horsepower (amp) before to notice that the chuffing was this bad. I have a couple of ideas in my head on how to resolve this but it won't be easy. :)
@@generationbehindhifi Well... the cheapest way is to skip all the experiments and just build a box with a slotted port with nice round corners. You could make a slotted port outside of that Klipsch box... I've built car subs with 1000 W to them and had barely no shuffing.
Cut a slot on the right side and then calculate the length along the back all the way to the left side, then only tune the width and with that the area to an acceptable tuning freq... Should be wide enough I'm thinking to make the air slow enough... if you're lucky.
...or just get some nice aeroport ends I guess... ;)
...doing the "cutting a hole" metod is o.c. really, really stupid! :D
@@OlaJustin Where's the fun in that (taking the easy way out)? LOL!
I appreciate the suggestions. Yeah, I might just end up building a new cabinet, but really didn't want to go that far. I was thinking I could get away with cutting a rectangular port on the top of the cabinet and then wrapping the port from the top all the way to the back, then straight down the the back side where it will go underneath the cabinet and will exit right under the driver. I need to wrap the port like that because I need the length in order to maintain the port tuning. Once I get some other speaker projects done, I will probably get going on FrankenKlipsch again.
@@generationbehindhifi thats an excellent idea! 😂😂😂
Franklin Klipsch 12.0 , I can't wait for your 2nd attempt
haha! I don't know if I'll do a v2 series just yet. I think most people are kind of getting sick of the series judging by the views and likes. We will see. I appreciate the support though!
Thanks for the great video series. I've made my own Frankenklipsch with NO PORT NOISE..!!!!!!. But I used a different port. I used the Ammo Tenna PSP3 3-inch. It needed to be trimmed a bit on the outside and inside. The port is just a tad over 10". It may not drop as low but it looks good and no noise.
AmmoTenna PSP3 3-Inch Port
I also used the Polk Audio MM1042 SVC.
No problem! Nice work and I'm glad it worked out for you. There are so many variables that come into play when resolving port chuffing. It has nothing to do with what brand of port you buy, and more to do with port diameter, whether its flared or not, TS parameters of the driver, etc. You are also using a different driver which explains the different results you had with your setup. Subwoofers with strong motor structures will get port noise on small diameter ports vs ones with smaller motor structures. If I have time, I might revisit this project and solve the port chuffing once and for all with a new design. In my new design I won't use a PVC pipe and instead will use MDF.
The Frankenklipshc sound aggressive and deeper than the others I love it
Man awesome video, and crazy results. Your content is very good.
Wow! I really appreciate the nice comment!
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That amp is what I had my eye on last week for the JBL with the CSS upgrade. It was a little cheaper than $195 with a coupon code but I didn’t buy it. I think it would be decent but not quite what I want still. I think I can find something in the 600 watt range (ideally I’d like to go as far as 800 watts but that’s really pushing my funds…part of the reason for this is to keep it relatively affordable in comparison to what can be purchased outright) that isn’t too expensive. I just need to be patient. And for the time being I’ll be able to run it on the factory amp.
I think you and I have similar interests. I am going to pick up one of those DATS V3’s…I have an old Energy ESW10 and a little Polk PSW111 (w/ bad amp) that I want to play with. I’m curious what the little 8” Polk driver has for specs. It appears to be of decent build quality for such a budget driver. Also have a pair of JL Audio 6W3V3-4 6.5” automotive subs and a few others that I want to play with.
Thanks again for your content and I hope to see a final update on the JBL in the coming months.
Thanks, Mike! For the money the Monoprice 400 watt rack mount amp is hard to beat. You get an onboard DSP, 400 watts, and decent build quality for less than $200. Even at full retail it almost seems too good to be true! I think the Monoprice amp is made by OSD. Have you looked at their amps? They are identical in looks, but the OSD amps have higher quality binding posts and inputs on them, and cost significantly more.
Good luck with your Polk sub project. Once you start tinkering, it's hard to stop. Just saying. LOL!
@@generationbehindhifi funny. I haven’t looked at OSD amps specifically but I picked up their little Trevoce 8” sub a couple weeks ago for my main living room because I wanted something small that doesn’t go too low (it’s not my theater, I don’t need to rattle the house). However, it has a lot of resonance so I might use your trick with some sound deadening to get rid of a little bit of that. Can toss polyfill in if I need to after that. The Monoprice one is sold out now with no date for restock. I’ll take a look at their amps.
To convert the Sub to passive, do you just connect the red speaker lead to a red RCA jack and the black lead to a black RCA jack? Is there any grounding when installing the RCA jacks? Thanks for the info, I'm converting my old RW-10SW to passive and getting an external sub amp.
www.hifivision.com/threads/converting-active-sub-to-passive.60266/#:~:text=Assuming%20it%20is%2C%20all%20you,posts%20on%20the%20plate...
Ive got a frankenpolk lol psw110 unknown polk plate amp with a dayton rss265ho-4 10 if it had more power with a bigger box and lower tuning it might give my pb10 nsd a run
The Dayton rss265ho-4 is a pretty nice subwoofer driver. No doubt you need more amp and enclosure with that setup. Perhaps there will be a FrankenPolk part 2 in your future with a new enclosure and bigger amp?
Thanks for sharing!
The SVS sounds like the driver was bottoming? How do you know these "are not distorting"?
I have been told that 17m/s is a *max* and 10-12m/s are much better.
Hi Neil, I had a feeling someone might say that, but it was actually a rattling noise coming from somewhere inside the AV cabinet. I gave up after about 20 mins of trying to pinpoint it and finally decided to just film it as is. I should have put a note in my video clarifying that. Sorry!
Do you have any tips on how to resolve the port chuffing? I'm thinking about building a square port, but the length is going to be long in order to maintain my tuning frequency. The only thing I can think of is to wrap the port around the outside of the cabinet. So far this is the only viable solution I can think of unless you guys have something else that might be easier to execute on.
@@generationbehindhifi I do have a thought on that - if you can put a bundle of drinking straws inside the port, they have the effect of making the air act like it is greater density, and as the air really gets moving, it increases the friction. This takes the peak level down a few dB and it often extends the roll off a few Hz deeper.
If you move the port inside the box, then its volume reduces the box volume. Maybe a setup with a panel that is spaced away from the cabinet, to provide a "slot" around the four edges? So, a tube inside the cabinet, that transitions to a slot port? The straws could be in the tube?
@@NeilBlanchard Thanks, Neil! Looks like I have a science project this weekend to try.
@@generationbehindhifi I would suggest the largest diameter straws you can find (that are thin walled and straight). The interesting thing is these make virtually no change to the tuning, but the fast the air moves, the more friction is created. There's something called the Reynolds Number - as the velocity goes up, the holes gain more and more friction - and they eventually effectively close up.
Super Mario Bros. port
lol