Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
Getting Started in N Scale
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 16 авг 2024
- Getting started in n - scale, a couple of recommendations on things I would do differently, like DCC and sound. From a humble beginning to a basement empire - expect to drop some serious coin to full-dive into this hobby.
Disclaimers for the Irresponsible:
The contents of the videos on this channel are not designed nor intended for children or in any way marketed towards them. While there is no content restriction, the video may contain adult language and adult jokes. Those easily offended by anything and everything or not of a mature and rational mind should not view the content because we have no patience for nonsense. If you're offended by this statement, it's directed towards you. If not and you laughed, welcome to the channel.
All footage contained in this video was shot by the members of this channel and are copyright protected. Sharing of the video and the video link are encouraged to help spread the hobby, please provide proper credit when sharing.
Technical Stuff:
Footage is captured with an iPhone 11 and narrated in real-time during the recording through a headset mic.
Video is assembled/edited with Microsoft's Clipchamp video editing software.
Music is provided royalty-free from www.bensound.com
Great advice. I would add one more simple thing to do - join a model railroad club. A lot of us build our railroad empires by ourselves and make lots of mistakes while doing it, regardless of all the advice available on RUclips and in books. But, joining a club means that you have access to a lot of people who share the hobby and are willing to help you avoid the simple mistakes. It also means that you can have a layout to run trains on long before you build your own. I accept that not every town has a model railroad club, so you may need to travel to the next town, but the value you get from the other club members way outweighs the time spent travelling.
Great idea. Clubs also allow you to spend money on getting the nicer train components and not investing in all the bench work, wiring, throttles and other equipment right away. Also great if you want to be a modeler, but don't have space for the dream layout right now. A 120 car coal train takes a LOT of layout space most homes don't have. But, 120 cars in a case that can be taken to a club is easy to store and then you have space to stretch it out.
I would say not! I belonged to one and all they did was bicker about what should be done on the layout instead of actually doing something. The layout sat half finished when I left that club. Granted most of the members were all older folk in their 60s or 70s.
@@YeOldeGeezer Sorry that you had such a bad experience with a club. I do know of some clubs that have also experienced similar problems, but the majority are in it to enjoy the hobby with fellow modellers. My own club has been building a large layout for the last 4 years, and, if everything goes according to the plan, we will finish the build in another 3 years. This is just getting the track and basic scenery in place, so there is still years of work left to do. The main layout currently has some 44km of mainline track available for running. In the last 4 years, we have also built two small layouts which are fully operational and full sceniked. Our membership ranges from 70+ down to 8 years old.
@@ericcoughlan they had a layout going for more than 10 years when I joined and were still only 25% done.
That landscaping was so good at one point I’m sure I saw a fox run across those tracks..
thanks!
Though I wasn’t your target demographic (58 & O-scale), I wanted to say how much I loved your intro- once this hobby gets you it never lets you go😊
So accurate. it's like a drug!
Finding a money pit for something that’s likely to involve you for the rest of your life is the very best exercise for mental health. Well done to you buddy!
100% agree!
I got started in Nscale a few months ago and went with Japanese commuter and Shinkansen trains. Only picked up a few Amtrak for US trains. It’s been a fun hobby so far
it becomes more than a hobby at some point - it almost becomes an obsession. you'll just need to keep expanding the collection and searching for the right pieces and missing parts. half the fun starts coming from finding something you've wanted.
Just wanted to comment that I watched this video several months ago when I decided to return to the hobby of my childhood after a 30+ year hiatus.
As I was starting over, I decided that N scale would be the best fit for me (current space limitations, of course, and the desire to have the ability to simply fit more into a given space into the future). I’m starting small (L-shaped 5’ x 5’), all things considered, and made peace with it being a wide-ranging series of compromises. But I am purposefully trying to see this as my learning layout and setting myself up to enjoy the process of learning as many skills as possible. After months of research, track planning, and purchasing (oof!), I started construction over the Christmas holidays.
I want to thank you for your advice and candour in this and other videos. I rewatched this one today and realized that it may well have been the one that helped give me the final nudge I needed to make the decision to go for it and commit to the idea of actually building a real layout.
I had previously watched my fair share of the sort of ‘cheerleading’ model railroading videos and, admittedly, I got caught up in their enthusiasm, but something about how you talked through everything really resonated.
You didn’t sugarcoat the challenges and high cost (money and time), and you definitely helped manage some of my expectations. But it also underscored that it’s doable, deeply enjoyable, and a long-term progression will let one develop the skills they need to succeed.
You also helped underscore the places to spend one’s money strategically and prompt one to consider what they want out of the hobby. I feel like I’ve made good decisions so far about where to put my money to get started, but, perhaps most importantly, it’s prompted me to think sequentially about what and when purchases will be done and when I necessarily need to research a topic and make decisions. I’m not concerning myself, for example, with scenery materials and techniques at this point in construction, but I poured over NMRA standards and tables to ensure that my track plan and layout configuration would operate safely and efficiently.
So thank you, again. This video meant a lot to me.
i'm glad this video helped you take the plunge and i'm even more happy that you did! welcome to the best hobby in the world. i like to engage in 'real talk' rather than cheerleading because there are some things about this hobby that i think blindside people - and cost is definitely one. over my modeling 'career' of 25 years or so, i've wasted so much money on things that didn't work or worked almost and if this video helped you avoid some of my mistakes then hopefully you're that much further ahead. while you're getting going and working through your first layout, feel free to ask questions. i do try and respond to comments as quickly as i can. since youtube doesn't offer direct messaging, i guess i need to set up an email for that!
Thanks for the videos - your channel has inspired me. Its a fantastic hobby.
I'm new to n scale, getting involved for about 6 months (previously modeling in different scales), and have watched a lot of your videos. I'm really impressed with how much railway I can fit in to a small space with n scale.
In terms of building the model railway, my advice for those starting (just from my experience) is to work hard on laying good track - smooth gradients, good joins between sets of rails and smooth curves (and the broadest possible) - will make running trains more enjoyable. I've made plenty of mistakes but make sure to relay any sections of poor rail.
Thanks for the videos.
One very important tip for beginners. Make everything you can from scratch from stuff around the house. Water towers from empty pill bottles, paper mache mountains etc..
absolutely. anything you can reuse is something you're not buying.
You failed to mention that for those who are just starting out and do not have the advantage of already having things from 20+ years ago - the most important thing is to be either a kid with rich parents or be a rich adult. Just to build the Inglebrook Shunting Puzzle with 2 no-frills manual turnouts, a couple straight tracks, 1 engine and 8 rolling stock, no buildings, no landscaping (just the tracks on a board) is going to set you back a couple hundred dollars at minimum. Model railroading is now a "Rich Man's Hobby" which is why more young people are not getting into it.
I'm 73 and thankfully I started in the early 1970's when a remote turnout was only about $4 as opposed to almost $40 now.
four dollars for a turnout huh? a 1970 dollar is worth approximately $7.81 today. so a $4 turnout was equivalent to $31.24 in today's dollars. this is why it's not a rich man's game - it's pretty much on par - you're getting more technology, better functionality, and a wider range of options. for an extra few dollars, i'll take it. having been to the hobby shop this morning, it was a younger crowd filling the isles - lots of kids and teens. still the old heads that have been doing it forever, but the next generation is right there. you can get pretty crazy with locos and pricing - options that were not available in '70s, but you don't have to start there to get into the hobby. Bachmann still has affordable starter sets and expansion sets. if the next generation isn't getting into something, it's because the previous generation failed to include and train them.
Hi. All I just wanna say is *You have a very beautiful beautiful N scale layout* Congrats !.
Greetings from the other side of the world, my friend.
This is John from Santiago de Chile, South America.
Cheers !.
thanks!
I just got into n scale, after dropping out of HO years ago due to space, size, time, and money. We picked up a Kato oval master pack and a japanese D51 steam engine #200. I'd wanted one for a while, those japanese steam engines are stunning. Absolutely INSANE detail for the price, and the smoothest running thing I've ever seen, period. And all it has to pull is a couple ancient lifelike and bachmann cars, but I couldn't be happier. I'm kinda heavy into scale RC boats at the moment, so trains will probably never be a big thing for me again, but it's a new beginning at least. Sort of a long time coming after buying a lovely Bowser PRR caboose in n scale a number of years ago, as a sort of preemptive commitment to trying n scale if I ever returned.
in general, n scale offers good economy - you can get a lot for your dollar but it does require quite a few dollars to start. space saving is another one. the kato unitrack is great because you can set up a fairly complex layout on your dinning room table, run trains for hours, and have it all broken down and put away - without ever have to completely commit to a layout.
A lot of very good advice here, and his layout reflects that depth of experience and knowledge. If you are a beginner, it makes a lot of sense to find someone who’s been in the hobby for a while to help steer you straight on the best way to get started. But especially, if you are into N scale, it’s best to talk to other N scalers, because their are lots of modelers in other scales who may know their stuff about their scale, but very often they will know surprisingly little about N scale.
Or even worse, they will have all sorts of strong opinions on N scale based on half-truths, myths, or outright false beliefs, so if a modeler in another scale is bashing N scale and warning you away from it, be very wary.
N scale isn’t perfect, and it isn’t for everyone (no scale is the “best” for everyone). But N scale has wonderful features, and it can be a great scale for modelers who are at any point in their model railroading journey. Done right, N scale runs very well indeed. Beautiful, well detailed layouts can be and are being built every day. This layout is a perfect example of that.
thanks! n scale's drawback as far as i can see is what makes it a good scale - size. smaller trains means even small problems can be big issues - especially in trackwork. anyone bashing n-scale, might be familiar with earlier equipment or junky toy train sets. i've also found - especially from the HO crowd, there's no regard to any other scale and many of them have never tried one. HO is great, with a lot of options - provided you have twice the space you need for n scale.
Lol it's funny that u mentioned starting with a train set when I were young and now it's a money pit for life. So relatable
oh yeah. it takes cash real fast.
I did a lot of reading and research before I started my layout. I have also have those books. I decided on n scale because of the amount of space that was available. But I’m enjoying the scale because of the size and details. I’m running DDC and I researched the system that I have zephyr express. I do have sound locomotives and I’m glad I spent the extra money. I have some scale trains , atlas , and inter mountain locomotives on preorder. The rolling stock is mainly Micro Trains. I do have other brands of rolling stock. Using kato uitract it’s easy to work with. Track down weather and wirer up and trains running. Just getting started on scenery and structures. Yes you can drop some serious coin into the hobby. But what hobby doesn’t take some serious coin. Thanks for sharing. Have a good week. 😎😎👍
Everything you said is spot on, from the track to the locos. It's almost like talking to a version of myself! Solid.
this guy is completely under rated and over looked. this is really helping me make my own layout.
thanks - glad you're benefiting!
Great video, and I like the humor during the explanation at this point: 15:42 😂
Greetings from Vienna/Austria/Europe
Great video. I started in the hobby over 25 years ago, took time off for kids and work. Now I am getting back into it.
Welcome back! it's still just an absolute epic hobby.
First time viewer. You have an enormous model train layout. Closeups are the best. This can pass for Ho scale. I collect model trains my main line is Ho scale. But now i have O scale & building on N scale. Yes all three scales & model 🛣️ road racing sets 🏎️ The truck racing sets to. You mentioned 30 years at the hobby congratulations. I have 50 years in this hobby.🎉 I wouldn't trade this for the world. Will be watching all these & many videos. all scales benefit from watching this N scale layout.
I may do an Ho scale version of this.
This layout Reminds me of another channel CR Steve has a Conrail layout based in Philadelphia Pennsylvania, My other favorite is The
Q&NER channel 💯 inspiring. I definitely want to add here to my list of what i just viewed i know i am going to have a great time watching.
I thank you.
Harold Alexis
CN 🇨🇦 etc..
thanks for watching! yes, i know CR Steve's channel - he does an excellent job of capturing the gritty Conrail days - puts a lot of effort into his loco detailing, too. i do watch the Q&NER and it's a nice layout - but for me, it's too neat and too clean - looks like a perfect painting and that detracts from the realism. while i wish life looked that perfect - that layout needs some serious weathering, and some bare patches of ground :)
Great video. My grandfather built me a train set as a kid in the early 90s and when he passed away, I fell out of love with them. But now as I’m older and in my 30s, I would love to build my own set and dedicate it to him. Just need the space. I wonder if there is a train video game out there, other than sims. Incredible set up you have as well. Truly remarkable and well laid out.
there is software called Trainz. And Microsoft Train Simulator might still be around. start off with a small shelf layout if you can. some basic switching, a couple of small switcher locos, and some cars will help you develop the skills for a larger layout.
I started with a similar Bachman set in 1970, but with a 1st generation GP40. I just pre ordered my first engine after being out for 20 plus years and detail is outstanding, compared to my brass 2-10-4 texan. My old 1970s engines are retired now except for a few steam engines. At this moment everything is in storage, no place for a layout and the nearest n scale clubs are 50 miles away. Dues for one of the clubs was around $30.00 a month and with other travel expenses would be to much. I bought a few older cars lately and like you said the print wasn't very good, but they were a rarer body style so i can live with it. But the engines no way, all mine are Kato and Atlas, with a few other brands, from 1996 to 2005.
that's a lot for a club i feel though i really haven't tried to join any so maybe that's the going rate. Kato and Atlas are great reliable locos and great pullers. the details vary but that can always be fixed. I would say the majority of my fleet is Atlas and Kato units. welcome back to the hobby - there's a lot of boomerang modelers that leave for whatever reason - and a lot that come back!
@@AlleghenyNorthern Must have 30 Kato and Atlas engines that going to test to check if they run. Every I buy engine is always Santa Fe mostly bookends because that is the period I'm modeling. But I this have a few later paint schemes and earlier too.
Im 55 years old and would LOVE to try and build a layout.... if i wasn't ripped off by a real estate deal of my own house for 22 years sale back in 2022 and now that entity is coming for me now, Friday the 24th was 30 days into a 60 day seizure of property by wayne county Michigan (Detroit).
Long story short i lose everything ive ever owned cone 30 more days approximately, as i sold my house of 22 years and currently living (not for long) in the house i grew up in. Growing up, since about 1974 was just dad and me, my best friend. Dad died march 15 2016 and since then i lost my best friend and father but deciced to live in his house instead. Its been ib the family over 50 years and seemed like the best move. My wife since 2020 has grown to love the place too. We are both on disability, just been hanging on.
We are now about 30 days max from being thrown out on the streets with nothing not even our stuff we collected and owned over our 50+ years.
I know, sob story and nobody cares.
I dont either anymore and almost certain ill be dead in about 30 days plus one.
Not a soul on this planet could care about how much a car guy i am or how much ive always wanted to build a serious model train layout.
Dont worry about it y'all, ill be dead by June 25 of this year...hust in time to beat my birthday on the 28th
I only have DC controllers at the moment but I would recomend getting DCC installed locos that are DC compatable, yes they cost a bit more but it makes them expansion proof. Also the price of DCC installed is usually cheaper than buying a loco and a separate decoder board (plus a new main PCB for some smaller locos).
yup - if someone is likely to stay in the hobby... they're eventually going to end up in DCC.
That was a very good tutorial. I agree on locos, you get what you paid for. Almost all my locos are Atlas (Master or Classic), Kato, and more recently BLI since they brought on board Paragon 4. I have a few Life Like locos that were in the very last of their years in business that run great, a couple of Bachmann Spectrum locos (steam) and they run great. I also have a few regular Bachman and ConCor locos, mainly because you cannot find them made by anyone else, ex: 2 sets ConCor SW 1500 Cow and Calf, Bachmann 060 switcher, etc. I also have two Shinoharo (?) brass AC 12's that run beautifully, but those are obviously way out of price range for a beginner and cannot be converted to DCC (as far as I can tell).
It's amazing how many of the older locos hold up - I do have a LifeLike i converted to DCC. lately, it's been running poorly and i've pulled it from the layout until i can fix it up right. it might be destined for that big railyard in the sky, though. i noticed con-cor seems to be the only one to have produced cow and calf switchers and i have no idea why! B-units in general don't seem to be in much production. i know they're a bit of a dinosaur and i've never seen one in the wild - but i'd have to imagine they're still in yard service somewhere.
I appreciatie all the advice on building a model railroad, unfortunately this should have been given to me 40 years ago. 😂😂😂 I'm done building now. I just want to make some improvements on my layout if I find out how to make these improvements. So keep making videos, to me they will be necessary. 👍 Greetings from the Netherlands.
Hi ya.
Fantastic video and fantastic layout.
With you big time get the youngsters in the hobby, keep it alive for years.
Well done with telling people how to get started.
Did think about N scale, however my sausage fingers couldn't cope. OO for me.
Thank you.
.... Pete....
the last train show i was at was full of kids and young adults - was very happy to see the next generation moving into the hobby since most of them can barely write their own names let alone get into a hobby that requires actual hands-on skills!
I really wanted to get into this hobby. I did alot of research into scale, history, etc.
My hope was to have a bonding hobby with my dad. He is 77 and Im 48.
I settled on N scale after seeing a fairly incredible layout in our town's local city museum (Roseville, Ca). My lack of space dictated I needed a pully lowered/raised platform for my layout.
And then I finally went online and looked at purchasing.
The prices for anything in this hobby ensured I we will not be enjoying getting involved.
I hear/read how this is a declining hobby (more people leaving through passing away than are joining).
With prices this high, it is just one more major obstacle to people (including my father and myself) joining and celebrating and experiencing this great looking, and seemingly enriching past time.
To be clear, I was expecting engines, cars, track, and amenities to be about 75% less expensive.
$200 for a locomotive the size of a matchbox car could literally be made out of 99.9% silver sell for that.
Since these prices are, from the outside of this hobby looking in, apparently just accepted out of hand as both reasonable and unavoidable, I assume there must be an incredible amount of actual labor hours put into each product.
Hand painted? Okay. That's an hour tops under a magnifying lens per car.
other than that, aren't each one of these things mass produced?
Please educate me.
I am more disappointed than snarky or trying to be difficult.
As for a dying hobby - i've heard that quite a bit and it's rubbish. i've yet to see an empty hobby shop or train show in my area and it's a mixed crowd of old and young people. additionally, manufacturer's are putting out new items regularly - showing there's still a healthy market so i'm not really fearful the hobby is on its way out. the advent of home affordable 3D printers has injected even more life into it as modelers can now create their own content unique for their layout in the comforts of home.
The hobby is expensive - no way around it. if you want a top of the line locomotive, you're going to drop easily $200-$300 for a locomotive. but if you're just starting out there are other options that don't have all those bells and whistles (truly, as you're going to lose sound options). in august i attended an n scale train show where standard Atlas DC locomotives were selling for $65. that's a great locomotive if you're running DC and can always be upgraded with a drop in decoder for about $30 bucks later if you wanted to go digital. the more factory applied details and the finer scale fidelity are going to cost you, though. Rapido, for instance, is putting out cars priced at almost $45 each - same with ScaleTrains. but, the difference in a ScaleTrains autorack at $45 is incomparable to a $20 ConCor version. And while parts may be mass produced - a lot of the finer details are still hand applied because they're not molded in place. this leads to a higher per unit cost. The price of manufacturing as a whole is also up making the price of everything more expensive - so, that's also not helping.
but it's still possible to find good bargains at train shows so i'd start there. also, start with a train set where you get everything included to get you started for a few hundred dollars. if you're looking for things to be 75% less expensive than the current market - i'm not sure what to tell you because they've not been at that price range for a few decades. each locomotive is like a tiny rolling computer now and entire layouts are being run by programs mimicking real-life central control signaling and operation so there's a lot more into the trains than just an on/off switch compared to what was available 25 years ago. that simpler stuff is still out there - it's just not the flashy stuff that's selling front page on most hobby shop's websites. to answer the general question of price acceptance, yes, it's accepted that the hobby has various price points and features you get at those price points and they range from a standard Atlas DC model at $65 to an Atlas Masterline Gold Series with DCC and sound around $250 - but you're getting a lot more in details and operation between the two. as modelers, we select which tier we purchase by the features we want, we can afford, and by knowing what we can later do ourselves to bridge the gap from inexpensive to finely detailed model.
As far as hobbies go, it's really not that expensive. Ultimately, it's about capturing your imagination and reproducing iconic railways that exist around the world.
This video was awesome. I remember being a kid alwsys playing with the train at Christmas. Been looking at making one of my spare rooms into a train room. Trying to figure out how much debt I wanna go in for this hobby lol
it is definitely not the most budget-friendly hobby, but start small and work up. not just small in scale, though i do recommend highly going with N scale, but start with a loop, some turnouts for fun, a loco and a handful of cars. once you get the bug real bad to go for a full layout - that's when things get interesting.
Best getting started video I've seen and I've watched alot.
100% agree with you in that having actual books to reference from are invaluable learning resources. Nice video!
those books were invaluable getting started. it is legitimately where i learned all of my beginnings.
Your layout looks great. The thing I do is paint those ties brown. You can get brown paint pens. Im building my 3rd layout (2nd layout was started, didn't like the track layout), I'm going with Atlas code 55 track with brown ties to avoid painting every tie.
i like the look of the Atlas code 55 but your trackwork better be perfect - those thin rails don't like bumps and kinks at all. it's a great look, just be super careful. Kato is like code 80 or something ridiculous. looks a little fake to the discerning eye but it runs so smooth it's hard to argue with it.
Your layout looks great. The thing I do is paint those ties brown. You can get brown paint pens.
yes, the track needs some detailing. i keep pushing it off in favor of more exciting projects.
I started with the same Bachman set! 23 years later I'm proud to say my basement js full of trains!
that's the same route i took - and i'm never looking back. that set hardly holds up to my standards now but when i was younger - most awesome thing i ever got for christmas.
Athern Blue Box locomotives and rolling stock !!! My favorite!!
I would suggest a Kato starter set. I'm still DC but I have the Kato sound box and for a smaller layout it can provide good engine sounds for cheaper. .Kato also has signals and crossing gates that anyone could easily add in DC forum. If i were to build a bigger layout and hadn't bought all the DC engines I have I definitely would go Dcc sound. It's a Great hobby that has so many different aspects to it. Always enjoy your videos.
You know, Kato started putting out their starter sets after i was already well started and i hate them for it. Their starter sets are so freakin' nice! that's a great place to start. they do have a lot of options for track add-ons and its very nice to be able to pull the track apart and find different configurations before you start building - that's what i love about sectional track. i'm not one to sit down and sketch out a plan - i build it, try it, change it, then scenic it.
i got to the point where i couldn't manage the trains in DC any more. i couldn't walk with my trains so i wasn't able to watch them through all the scenes, i had to walk back and forth from the cab to the train when switching - it really zapped the fun out of it for me. DCC is intimidating - i've been doing it for about two years and i'm still intimidated. but, once you get the basics down, it's really fun and Digitrax makes programming so easy. Their starter set comes with a book that is basically my DCC Bible. Start small - convert one or two locos when you get the itch. You'll never go back.
I nearly completed one of the more complex Atlas N scale layouts 45 years ago. I had the 4 lines working, but never completed the scenery. Glad to know it's still ongoing!
Oh i know which one you built. I always wanted to build that one and never did. If I ever downsize - it'll either be that one or the Atlantic Longhaul lines layout. but those books were instrumental in getting me started!
@@AlleghenyNorthern I managed to locate the book on ebay, and it's in great condition. Not sure that'll rebuild, but just thinking back on those inspiring days has its own rewards. Very happy to see the model RR spirit alive and well. Thanks!
@@williambyrne6855 i see folks saying the hobby is dying. I guess those folks haven't been to a train show lately where you can't find parking and the isles are jammed with people. With all the new tech, it appears to be adapting to a younger techy crowd while also being user-friendly enough to allow the older gens to keep up. this hobby offers so much opportunity for various hobby aspects, i see it around for a long time to come. and those books are a great way to start!
Definitely started with an ho set and a small loop of track. Atlas wiring and track plan books were key to my dc learning. Great advice. Also I started with less detailed, less expensive locomotives and quickly realized I enjoy the fine details. I sold off most of those lesser ones. However I am somewhere in between high end and low end when it comes to rolling stock.
More detail is tough - you pay more and the fine details are very fragile. i started out of the mind it wasn't necessary. the more i delved into the hobby, the more i realized it was very necessary; but picking and choosing which details is important - especially if you're going to train shows or have a lot of handling involved in your layout. some of my older locos and cars received aftermarket upgrades but now, they make it so easy to simply buy them how you want them. if that takes something away from the hobby for a particular modeler, there's still opportunities to get less detailed cars and make them personal, however. really makes this hobby pretty much exactly how you want it.
Hey Sir I like to say you have an outstanding N scale Layout Hi my name is Charles Woods from Louisville KY I like to say you also do a good job on getting some people started in N scale trains I like your layout a lot of your in DC or DCC both like you said are good to go into if you decide what you want right
glad you're enjoying the vids! DCC does really offer the most opportunity for realism and enjoyable operation but its price tag is limiting to some. it's definitely more complicated to learn - however, both power options are tried and true and can be effectively used to enjoy the hobby. personally, i wish i would have taken the dcc plunge much sooner - but i'm making up for lost time.
My Wife And I Have Ho then My Wife wanted to Get Into N Scale So Now We Have Ho And N Scale and We Are Still Working On Our N Scale Layouts And We are Loving It.
I envy HO modelers for their selection - a lot of options and models available. However, i'll never surrender my n-scale!
Enjoyed the video. I've had O scale for years, but have been tempted to switch over many times as I could pack a lot more in my smaller area. I have a small N scale setup next to the O scale, and both are fun. Thanks
basically - as long as you've got a model train, you've got happiness! all scales have their merits - i'm actually contemplating an around the ceiling O scale layout and a small HO switching layout. just for fun.
Enjoy both scales: scale is a servant, not a master. I floated a thought experiment to someone: stage a vignette of what happens at a station platform/s in N. Then in a separate vignette that feels like it is part of the same scene, stage the city/carpark of the same station but place it so both cannot be seen at once - like turning one's back. Think: on the real location you can't see the park and city street from the platform, nor the other way around. On the model the trains can be N, and the carpark vehicles can feature the depth of O scale; and why? Because, like the real thing, you can't see both at once. I can remember watching two locos pump up the brakes of an interstate express. It was a major terminus and I could only see ONE train at a time, and my back was turned on the car park. As for the rail side of the session, to stage the whole operation - bringing the train in, taking away the shunter, that pregnant pause for ten minutes or so, backing on the road locos, the coupling sequence, pumping up the brakes, another wait, starting the train, the mass of the train moving out, throttling back briefly to protect the traction motors as they bump across the points, and so-on, takes an enjoyable hour. Simple layout, only three locos, and the crowded slowness of the real atmosphere is forcefully captured. If the pauses hang heavy, do some modelling while you wait. You don't even need sound: a Brit once wrote that no sound system is as good as the sounds in his own head. Here, Here! For those who love their sound here is a local modeller/loco setup that could stage the scene bmodeltrains.com/sound-projects/australian-diesel-sound-projects/gopher-models-42-s-b-gm-b61/ Worth seeing/hearing.
And as for the interstate train, Larry Elder wrote up how to scratchbuild a 'limited' from brass for very little money and not much skill. Power with a second hand DC Kato. (See 'Model Railroad Craftsman', April 1972)
Thanks to our host; as usual very rushed so hope this is clear enough?????. Incidentally, does anyone know if Larry Elder still is? I owe him thanks.
Model railroading expensive? It is if you want it to be. But even expensive it is good health insurance.
Thanks again CM
Peter (wouldn't you think I would learn not to leave these comments!)
BTW, forgot to add, when I started my most recent layout (now about the size of yours but single level) it was when DCC was just coming in so I stuck with DC. No regrets since DCC will run on DC and I have the MRC decoder boxes for sound control options just the same as DCC controllers. When I built this layout, though, i read the writing on the wall so I ran a buss line around the whole layout like yours and dropped feeder wires to where I thought they would be needed and connected them to the buss, but the buss is not powered so it is not a problem with running DC. Since I am not a club layout and actually really like block control as a solo operator, DC is fine with me and may never fully convert to DCC. If I was a beginner, I would take your advice and build first layout or three in DC and if you do not plan to go large and don't want to blow up your budget on DCC equipment, stick with DC and by the proper accessories to access the DCC sound effects (basic ones work with DC power pack so no rush to spend more on the add-on MRC decoder until you are ready).
in my case, i was starting to look for DC walk-around throttles to solve my problem. since the Kato turnouts are power-routing, i could create a lot of blocks on industries with simplified wiring. but the walk-arounds were largely custom made and the manufacturers that did produce them must have seen there wasn't much of a market for it. what really pushed me into DCC was i purchased an SD40-2 Intermountain loco which i thought was both DCC and DC - turns out, it wasn't dual mode. so i was like, ok, let's see what DCC offers. Bought a Zephyr Express that day and three days later - i was a believer. a little over a year later i found sound. however, most of what i learned about the hobby was in DC mode and those skills in wiring and operation absolutely made me a better modeler. had i not made the honest mistake of buying a DCC only loco, there's a chance i would be telling you about DC handheld throttles and block control.
i started with DC, got hooked almost immediately.. decided that i wanted to do mainline running and yard switching.. looked at DCC... decided that it's just money, can't take it with you.. currently working on 4 DCC locos, 1 set up just needing programming for the sound.. 3 are getting wired/chassis mods. I have to agree, not a cheap hobby.. but it is my stress release.. to a point.. de-railings are still driving me nuts..
Ha! Ah yes, the derails. I can run trains for hours and no issues, then one day - I can't keep them on the rails. On those days, I just go work on something else - the hobby gods are not smiling on the layout. DCC and sound aren't cheap, but the investment is so worth it and it's not like you need to buy everything at once. in fact, starting with a few things due to budgets but really working them, adding detail, taking your time, etc. it really is a good escape from the BS of the day.
I would have 1 thing to point out in your point for "spend money for details". I would say be careful not to overspend. I've had way more issues with high end rolling stock than mid range rolling stock. I have bought used 3$ freight cars, I have bought used and new 15-20$ freight cars and I've bought expensive 35$+ freight cars (like BLMA reefers). I would say my best rolling stock is the 15-20$ atlas/micro-trains cars, as they provide most of the details you mentioned, but also have a little bit of extra clearance to run great even on rougher tracks that you layed. My higher end ones have clearance issues, some details rubs on the trucks, some details overhangs, the body mounted couplers makes it hard to run in tighter curves, they seem to be always be the ones that derails at turnouts... While the 15-20$ atlas or micro-trains run, great, are easily upgradable if you want metal wheels, but don't need it, are easy to service and still look great while running, because you can't see all the details on each car if you're looking at the train as a whole.
Same would go for engines. I've bought a few Fancy Rapido engines, and they look INCREDIBLE. But I always go back to my Atlas and Kato engines as they are the reliable ones. The Rapidos are hard to clean because of the details, they are picky on electricity pick up, are impossible to open to fix without breaking another detail piece. Katos and Atlases just run and are super easy to maintain. So my keyword is midrange for everything rolling stock, since my favourite thing to do is railfan my own layout.
Also, where did you get the plow for your CN 9590? Mine doesn't have one and I want one really badly
All good stuff. Let's start with the plow. I found it by luck at a local hobby shop. It's an old BLMA metal set. That loco has amazing sound and operation but why the left the plow off seemed really stupid! The BLMA parts out of stock pretty much everywhere best of luck in searching.
Completely agree that the pricier cars have a lot of details and some of those details lead to operational issues. I had to change sections of track to make my 89' ScaleTrains autoracks make it around the layout. They're beautiful cars, but extremely finicky. The new Atlas models are getting nice separately applied details - no where near ScaleTrains, and i had some issues with them, too. solved the problem by changing out the wheels for MicroTrains. MTL couplers and wheels are the best running, though not always prototypical in size. I adopted them as the layout standard when things get replaced. Atlas and MTL cars are nothing to shake a stick at - i think they're very good quality and are definitely a nice compromise between say a Bachmann and a ScaleTrains rolling stock. Nicely priced in that $25-35 range, too.
Locos, i would never say anything bad about the operation of my Atlas (the majority of my fleet) or Kato (the second place holder). They're well priced, pull like maniacs, and run amazingly well. I've never had an issue with a Kato unit. I wish my Atlas CN loco would have come with snow plows, but we discussed that.
@@AlleghenyNorthern for the Locos, maybe I've just been REALLY unlucky, but my only high end engines were Rapido ones. I have 1 Dash 8-40CM (Draper taper), 2 FP9As and 1 F40PH. All in DC (I didn't feel like paying double for a feature I can't use on my DC layout). All have the same issue of "sometimes they work amazing, sometimes they can't seem to be able to pick up power, no matter how much I clean the wheels and tracks". Also both FP9As have a light issue, one is the roof light doesn't work without DCC (but I believe the LED is in there, just not plugged in. I can't confirm because I can't open them, too afraid to break some detailing parts). The other one, one of the ditch light LED is misaligned so you can barely see it, but I can't open that one either. The F40PH and the Dash 8-40CM are fine if they can pick up their power.
I find it strange that you've had issues with the atlas trucks and couplers, as for some reason I've had more reliable results with my atlas trucks than my MTL ones. I do agree with you that Atlas seems to have found a very nice sweet spot of "enough details to look great while rolling", but not too much so they are at a reasonable price and very reliable. Same for MTL rolling stock.
@@kevo05s i don't yet have any rapido models - they haven't produced anything that's caught my attention yet. if you're having electrical issues, i wonder if it's something to do with the dual mode of the decoders? without DCC most of the specialty features wouldn't be available to you because there's no way to activate them. not sure if that has anything to do with it or not. none of my higher-tier locos have any issues with pickup or operation.
I prefer MTL over all others for trucks and couplers. they're very consistent and very reliable. i'm not sure what was up with the Atlas trucks on the last batch but replacing about half of the axles with MTL axles solved the problem. while i love the details of say ScaleTrains - they have to be handle so carefully that once they hit the layout - they're never touched and operated under careful eye to make sure they don't derail or have other unfortunate events. too many fine details to break and lose.
The problem is a combination of misplaced priorities and poor engineering.
By and large, the "boutique" builders have decided they want to prioritize external detail and DCC sound over mechanical reliability and ease of maintenance, which is why we're back to high-friction wheel wipers and rat's nest wiring instead of the low-friction pickup/split frame construction that actually made for a reliable, smooth, and easy to maintain locomotive. Most of these newer locomotives have so much friction in their mechanisms that they will immediately skid to a stop when you cut the power, just like an old Mehano. All that space they removed to make "choo choo" noises comes right out of the heft that actually determines starting tractive effort, so they don't pull particularly well. Combine this with the fact that there's a growing trend towards going back to more complex 1960s-style mechanisms for who-knows-what reason and you end up with gorgeous locomotives that don't run particularly well. They're hangar queens.
It's always going to be a balance of what makes for a good model versus a good locomotive. As an example, the old Bachmann train set F9s are excellent locomotives but garbage models. From reading reviews, the BLI RSD15s are excellent models but garbage locomotives. A balance has to be struck, and this, to me, is where Atlas and Kato excel. They figured out the right way to build a mechanism in the late 1980s/early 1990s, and stuck to it (for the most part). Everyone else seems to have forgotten since then.
@@ErickC i don't have any issues with my sound locos. they move and react more like the real thing; the ESU decoders offer some excellent hold and momentum functions. even on the older digitrax models, my locos all have settings to coast so if yours aren't - you need to look at your CVs - start with 3 and 4. Atlas' new Masterline Gold Series locos are excellent - i just wish they'd clean them before they package them. Kato's are amazing runners - but Kato's details are a little rudimentary. The BLI SD40-2 definitely are too light and can't pull a train - but their ES44AC pulls fine. it's a bigger loco though so i'm sure that's a factor. i wasn't a fan of sound at first - put the advancements in the decoders and the speakers makes it worth it to me.
Through education (books) comes knowledge (success) in the hobby... Just don't forget to mention that a N scale layout basically requires the same amount of floor space as HO scale! Been there, done that!
i've discovered that whatever available space there is... regardless of scale... we somehow manage to fit trains into it. a few more square inches means a little more train!
I started with the same tran set 😅 i finally have some more room to add on and set up a real train setup. Love the N scale
that set was EVERYWHERE. like every toy store had it - it was the gateway drug to a lot of people's train-addiction. I'm waiting for UPS to bring me my next hit today :)
Received my first O 27 in the 50's...OOPS!!!! My dad and I took over half of the basement. Very few books. He made a wooden tressle over a gorge of little pieces of Balsa wood. Then took that down and went to HO (Before DCC). He sold house to me and I dismanteled the trains as I had a growing family. He moved to another house and started his N scale layout. Now that I have bored you...I just bought a layout book. Finally my question is what type of track to go with. Back in the day really no choice except to curveable track. Thank you for your time.
Personally, i love Kato Unitrack. I highly recommend it. It's a little pricier than some of the other brands, but its easy to work with with lots of options available. It's what i use.
Thanks for the info. The Unitrack just seemed to easy to use. Are you able to cut it to different lengths?@@AlleghenyNorthern
@@vacation13 yes, you can cut it but before you do that, there's not much need to. they make expandable pieces that slide in and out and look like grade crossings - that usually fills in any awkward gaps you might create with complete track geometry. If not, i recommend a cutoff wheel in a Dremel to make a clean cut through the roadbed and rails.
All good points, about the sound locos a guy has to ask if the sound decoder has a stay alive or capacitor . Not a big fan of Bachmann have not had a good experience. I got a Scale Trains loco second hand and it has a rear truck out of gauge and they don" t sell parts if I would have bought it new I could send it to them and they would fix it. Second hand, no I will stick with Kato and Atlas. I have converted many DC locos for my friends all were hard wired even did a life like switcher with a ESU decoder. good stuff.
Shame about the ScaleTrains. I have four, two with sound, and i have another two on pre-order. Absolutely love them - and they operate great. Never bought second hand tho. Any luck trying to re-gauge them using an NMRA gauge as a guide? The Bachmann actually does have a keep-alive in it (the two Amtraks, not the CSX). None of the others do but if you're doing a self install and can make the room - definitely recommend a capacitor - it sucks when your sound loco stalls, the others in the lash up push it through and you have a loco in notch 4 going through it's startup procedure! Kato and Atlas are always good choices.
Hi, enjoyed today's video. Concerning Locos of choice I hope you done mind me chiming in on mine.
In the past I have dumped on Broadway Limited Imports a lot. I suppose I owe them some love when they are doing right. I tried them again since Paragon 4 came out and have found them to have turned around 180 degrees. They are my favorite source now. I have purchased 12 locos and every one of them is great. I have never heard sound as good as theirs. ( I am N scale too ).
Tony
I have three Broadway Limited - my Southern Heritage unit is my favorite and all three have Paragon 4 decoders and sound. I was a little disappointed in their SD40-2 locos, i have two high-hoods. The performance is just not great with them. They do pack a lot of detail in them and I am considering their Big Boy... but i wish Kato would get theirs out!
always start small and grow from there, it can be a very overwhelming trying to build a city when you don't know how to build a town! keep it simple to start because it will get complicated if you let it.
Once You Build Your Layout You Are On your Way. You won’t regret it. ALL Great things are Gonna Happen.you will stay Busy if you go to The Train Shop or Train Show if And When MAKE A LIST And Go With It.
I’m buying Athearn blue boxes these days and putting DCC decoders in them. That’s how I save money. For about 75 dollars you have a dcc loco w/o sound. I have found when buying new locomotives, adding sound from factory only adds about 30 or 40 bucks. So I agree with getting sound.
It makes a difference. i'm constantly punching the number 2 function on non-sound locos at crossings only to be disappointed there's no horn! iv'e been spoiled by my sound locos.
Just getting back in the hobby and changing from modern Conrail to mid 1970s Lehigh Valley railroad in Buffalo NY. So I needed to buy a bunch of new Lehigh Valley locomotives and I decided on Atlas locomotives and got 5 (2 used and 3 new) so far for around $700. Always thought Atlas engines were decent. Like Kato locomotives also but they mostly make modern locomotives, I never seen them do Alco locomotives. ls which I needed for my new layout I'm building.
Today I think these books are definitely great for helping people learn wiring. I learned how to wire from a couple Atlas books too, more simple ones and less specialized, but I ended up finding some 2'x4' layouts on google. They too used Atlas sectional track in those track plans, but it's just impossible to find new Atlas sectional track, and I'm fine with that. It was always frustrating with my HO trains when I was about 10 years old. Real track doesn't have those breaks between pieces of track, and that always bugged me. Flex track was what I used when I came back and I love it.
Also, gosh, when I started there was no way I was able to buy a dcc with sound along with a dcc system. It's really not bad to just get a DCC Atlas Silver series switcher with a new MRC controller/transformer or whatever it's called. There was NO way I was in a position to get DCC when I started. Sometimes the money just isn't there, and it doesn't NEED to be so expensive.
You can get the 30 dollar box car at train shows or swap meets for 10 bucks. I've gotten many micro train cars for 8 to15 bucks. Many are brand new, just went to a train meet run by a local train club and got 5 new micro train cars for 50 bucks.
absolutely. train shows and swaps are great places to find good cars like MTL stuff that someone is either getting rid of second hand or purchased and never used. now they just want to get rid of it and make a couple bucks so you benefit.
my experience for detail: if its N scale from 6 feet away, get something with color that you can see against your background colors. you arent going to see fine details on something that size. if its HO or bigger, then yes, go for finer details you can actually see. as for locos, nothing moves without a motor. put your money on quality.
there's a pretty big swing in available quality in n scale. the better motors are usually in the better detailed models. the toy-ish looking version aren't really geared well and the motors are cheap resulting in jerking speed adjustment and no slow-speed operation. the detail is easily visible in n scale - even more so when weathered. i'm not sure who's layout is six feet away from them, but i prefer trains at or near eye level for the most realistic viewing angle and a walk-around DCC throttle allows you to stay with the train.
it was just a rambling thought. @@AlleghenyNorthern
Haven't finished the video yet, but Plaza Japan has some GREAT AFFORDABLE n scale products for Kato. You can get a loop, controller, and passenger train for $117
so i had never heard of this site but i checked it out. they have some pretty cool stuff and some of it is nicely priced.
Awesome video!
Absolutely love the snow scenes - curious how you did that.
What is the model of the CN locomotive you showed (that has DCC installed)?
The CN is an Atlas Master Line Gold Series GP 40-2W with BLMA snow plows added (for some reason, the model didn't come with them - Atlas dropped the ball as the real version has them). The snow scenes are - complicated. I use a variety of products from Woodland Scenics, Deluxe Materials, and AK Interactive. I've done several videos on the various techniques I used to get the look i was after - that's probably the best place to start. I talk through melting snow and deep winter snow - also work through the frozen river and then in the latest video i show you how i touch up the scenes with new products. Let me know on those video's comment sections if you need any additional help.
Wow, those N scales loco's come complete with waving driver... LoL...
Amazing what they can do in N scale now LOL! Even sounded real, too.
Great video there. I have a few Kato and ScaleTrains N scale model trains and they are great on the whole. I am really happy with them. Bachmann and ConCor are the most basic models for detail. Kato is a good place to start off in the hobby. I do American N scale and British OO gauge model trains from Hornby, Lima and Bachmann. If you wanted some UK model trains with super detail. Check out the Revolution Trains Class 92 models. There is also Dapol as well.
Don't discount Bachmann too quickly - their newest releases are extremely well detailed and exceptionally powerful runners. The Amtrak Siemens SC44 Chargers I have are beautiful models. ScaleTrains will always be a favorite - they're amazingly detailed, the ESU sound is perfect, and they run very well. I can honestly say I wasn't even sure ConCor was in business anymore. Their releases along with Life Like's were very basic - essentially toys. However, Kato is a great balance in detail, reliability, and price-point. I've never had a complaint with Kato's offerings - though they're limited in road names and locomotive models/eras. I can't speak much to British and other European models. They're not terribly prevalent in the US, and in most cases need to be special-ordered. I've yet to see a hobby shop with any overseas models offered on the shelf.
thanks for sharing i'm i'm enjoying the hobbie vicariously through you guys sitting here in my 1 bedroom apartment =]
seems like the perfect place for a layout that slides under the bed or maybe a little shelf layout above the dresser?
@@AlleghenyNorthern I have seen some impressive n or z scale layouts that fit in a coffee table. I do have a high up molding in my living room but my cat would be running that bitch down immediately lol.
@@garyt3hsna1l82 LOL - ah, cat yes... that's not going to work. so coffee table with glass top it is!
As a retirement hobby it shouldn’t be any more expensive than playing regular golf or running a couple of nice motorbikes. Another big advantage is that it is not seasonal whereas the other two are..
i find that while model railroading is year round enjoyment, the cold and rainy months see the most progress. that means November through March are the most expensive months as i burn through projects.
Serious coin and money pit.
You are not wrong there.
And then when you get a string of months where new releases are 'must haves'... well, it's not important to eat EVERY day, is it?
True for almost any hobby though... you do with it what you want to.. I try to buy used whenever I can to save about 40-50% off new/retail... most of the time, you can't tell they are used and you not only save the earth a bit, but help the market keep rolling along!
Rail joiner at 5:56 has rails misaligned and a nasty drop in track... might want to tighten that up! Very nice layout! :-)
yeah that needs adjusted. the rail is actually in the joiner but sometimes the unitrack joints don't line up quite right if they're worn - it's rare but a little filing will smooth it out enough cars won't bounce. thanks!
I am so glad I saw this video. I ordered a book first. Now if I can get my wife to let me use the dining table. hehe
I'm 77 but just thinking about starting the hobby. The good thing is i can use the dining room table, the bad thing is my wife died a few years ago and i'm still alone. The good thing is i'm interested in another lady, the bad thing is i don't know if the feeling is mutual and she lives 1200 miles away. So obviously i have some things to think through before i start. Well i still have a sense of humor too and maybe i'll get this figured out soon.
Question, how supportive is your wife for you spending time and money on this hobby?
I raid my club's ho layout with old-time stuff while I work on growing my small collection of n scale :)
NIce video and your layout looks awesome. I'm curious, I just retired and have thought I"ve always wanted to do trains. My thought is to do N scale since I can do so much more layout in less space. Having been an engineer I'm good with the wiring and tech side and was planning to start with DCC rather then DC. What would you suggest as a reasonable size layout for starting with knowing that I could expand later? Brand of tracks you recommend for N scale and any good starter kits.
i would recommend you base your layout size on minimum curve radii. So, i wouldn't go smaller than an 11" radius - go 19" if you can. So, that forces your minimum width of somewhere between 22" and 38". As for length - take as much space as you can because if you want to run long trains, they need some space to stretch out. a 4x8 is nice start, a 4x16 would give you "miles" to design. Definitely start in DCC; i would never go back to standard DC now that i'm muddling my way through DCC. it just offers such amazing control and realistic operation potential. For track, although it's pricey, i really like the Kato Unitrack. It's the most realistic of the sectional track, it offers superelevated curves, and it snaps together reliably with good electrical conductivity. Pretty much every piece of track you'll need they offer - but if not, it's easy to cheat an atlas or peco specialty piece in there if you need to. As for starter sets, I like the offerings from Kato - but they don't offer DCC starters - you'll need to go Bachmann for that. Not a terrible option - i have a DCC sound on board loco from Bachmann and it's a nice model. Kato, Atlas, and the phenomenal ScaleTrains are all great locomotive options. For getting rolling stock, I'll always recommend MicroTrains and Atlas first. ScaleTrains offerings are limited and expensive but the detail is unparalleled if you want a couple superb showpieces.
It always bothers me when someone resigns themselves to the fact that this is an expensive hobby. It really doesn’t need to be. The notion that the old DC locomotives are obsolete and retired because they are incompatible with modern systems is completely wrong. Everything can be upgraded, but it doesn’t need to be if it’s run with power packs from the same timeframe as the locomotive. I just helped the neighbour’s kid built a small 2x4 ft N-scale version of the Kalmbach 4x8 HO Northeastern Alberta Rwy from a pdf I found online for free. It consists of a previously owned Kato locomotive and various rolling stock for less than $300, complete. That included the SD40 loco, 11 grain/box/tank cars, filtered DC Tech-II power pack, base and scenic material. I bought all new flex track, turnouts, and cork roadbed, paint, glue, some ballast (but most of it was actually dirt from outside), the benchwork materials, and some ground foam and static grass. Everything else was previously used or naturally sourced. Most of the structures were printed on card stock and scratch built. It took us all summer, but we had a blast doing it.
This notion that everything has to be purchased ready to run and brand new is why people are reluctant to leave their chairs and start. Make something and don’t be afraid to throw it away if it doesn’t turn out. You can keep the track, structures, locos and rolling stock. Even some of the scenery can be reused. I built several tiny layouts developing skills and the financial cost was minimal, especially because it was spread over the time it took to build it.
I want to encourage you to watch the video again because you missed the entire point. I show you both the old and the new and what you get for your dollar when you spend more. I advise where i would spend limited funds based on what i discovered developing in the hobby. At no point did I say because it's old it's bad. in fact, the switcher locos i show i even discuss how they were upgraded, and why I chose the Atlas over the 50% less expensive ConCor model. As discussed in the video, there are a lot of options but upgrading spends money twice and this was about how to save money - basically by spending it - but only once. There's no issue with cardstock model buildings or trees until proper models can be procured either by finding a good material source, or locating funds. At no point in this video do I downplay that option or even discuss it. The hobby is expensive and if you want the best you're going to pay for it. If a high level of detail and prototypical operation doesn't interest the modeler - that's obviously not the place to spend hobby dollars; the video discusses that. The video's advice was how i would recommend spending those dollars and avoid the wasted efforts that I went through. I believe I also discussed the current layout is my 4th albeit largest layout, but i discuss skill development in the intro videos that followed this one.
@@AlleghenyNorthern I would never use the toy store train set concor stuff that you showed. Time spent super detailing yesteryear’s top end equipment picked up at swap meets and online gets similar results to buying top of the line RTR. Occasionally I have to regear or remotor a locomotive, but usually it’s just adding strip styrene, or brass photoetches and paint or a decoder if I want DCC and sound. My point was that it doesn’t need to be expensive. But if you’re not into that sort of thing, you have to spend the cash. I will admit that I could never build one layout the size of yours much less four. I get my running long trains fix at the club.
@@derekdrever3470 agreed. i don't mind changing out a decoder or three. i had to do close to sixty of them when i converted but that really wasn't for me. i don't mind adding some separately applied grabs or MU hoses, but to detail a loco for scratch isn't my idea of fun. So i do prefer to spend the cash. i have a couple of treasured old models that will eventually get a work over, but i'm putting it off. some old reliables from the Kato and Atlas brands leave something to be desired for detail - but they run flawlessly so it would be a shame to replace them.
@@AlleghenyNorthernI hear that. Doing a large fleet is as daunting as building and scenicking a huge layout.
Hi there.
I loved your intro video to N-Scale railroads. I am an older retired mechanical engineer and always wanted to start model railroading. I have a basic, simple layout design set in the frontier west, with tunnels, mountains, and a couple of simple gorge bridges. My goal was a single coal/steam locomotive, with a tender, a couple of passenger cars, boxcars, and a caboose. I have built dioramas, so i need guidance on locomotives, etc. Any information you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Ah, you've selected a difficult era to model. Way back when, Bachmann used to make a series of models called "Old Timers" with a 4-4-0 steam loco and tender, coaches, caboose, and box cars based the old west. It appears they're still available on eBay in both HO and N scale. if you can get your hand on those, that's going to be your best bet. Also, it looks like MicroMark and Walthers also have some kits available for that time - look at the Bachmann Silverton and Durango set. Walthers also appears to have some individual cars available as well. If you're into building kits, I believe Tichy Train Group also made some rolling stock and details that would fit your desired model era. I used to have the several of those kits from my early years. I remember the Bachmann stuff being reliable. Nearest I can tell, it looks like you're going to be in DC - so if you decide to go DCC, you're going to have to convert them yourself. Hope this helps a little.
I met a guy recently who had been in the n scale trains for a long time, he went DCC and when he got to the $43,000.00 mark and needed $3300.00 more in power packs he called it quits a ND started selling everything and went to a different hobby.
must have had a hell of a collection. but if he was almost $50k in, seems pretty stupid to just toss in the towel after that much of an investment LOL!
@@AlleghenyNorthern he had been doing it for years and moved a few times and like everything some people stop or switch gears.
Nice to see Lexie back on the flat car
I missed her... she spent too much time in staging!
Hi, thank you for the awesome video! I have a few questions as I am planning on building my first layout. But first, I wanted to let you know that your video already answered a lot of my questions, like whether or not I should commit to doing DCC, as well as which DCC system to use. A few questions:
What track would you recommend? I have watched a bunch of videos, and Kato Uni track seems like one of the favorites, and if I'm not mistaken, it appears to be what you are using in your layout.
Do all DCC controllers work with all DCC decoders?
What manufacturer would you recommend for locomotives? I have once again heard that Kato is a great midrange choice, but I would like to know what you think is the best for someone starting in the hobby.
Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed the video!
I do use Kato Unitrack. The line has a lot of options and components available, has reasonably detailed roadbed, good reliable electrical connectivity, and almost fool proof installation. The plastic road bed isn't a prototypical as say flex track but i think the trade offs are worth it. I would definitely recommend the Unitrack.
Locomotives: Kato is an EXCELLENT choice. Very reliable, mid-level detail which is acceptable, and they're workhorses with great pulling power. You can also get them DCC ready or equipped/sound. I also recommend Atlas Master Line Gold Series and ScaleTrains. If you want to save a few dollars, Bachmann's DCC On Board intro line is surprisingly nice with the detail. You don't get all the cool sounds the others have but you'll save between $50-150 bucks.
Ok, decoders is a tricky answer. In general - yes they work across platform. Some of the older ones don't play as nice, so be careful with older finds. I have the Digitrax system and I am running Digitrax, TCS, and ESU decoders as well as the propriety BLI decoders. I don't have any problems programming the Digitrax, TCS, or the ESU decoders. The BLI decoders, even the Paragon 4 versions, don't program well. I find it best to avoid them and wouldn't recommend a BLI investment. Nothing i have has an NCE component so i can't speak to them.
@@AlleghenyNorthern awesome, thank you! Your layout and videos are awesome by the way.
I am very limited on space I have enough room for a 2 1/2’ x 4’ layout what is ur suggestion on a good starter set? I am 67 years old and retired….thanks
i'd look at one of the Kato sets. that'll give you a good and reliable locomotive, a handful of cars, and a loop of Unitrack. from there, you can keep expanding with their Unitrack variation sets. the starter sets are DC, but if you decide to go DCC before too long, they make drop-in decoders for their locos and it's as simple as disconnecting the DC pack and plugging in the DCC system.
I would be very interested to hear which engines and rolling stock brands you felt are the best please?
So for rolling stock my go to is MicroTrains. Nice detail, reasonable price, and reliable couplers and wheels. If you're going for the WOW factor - ScaleTrains, Trainworx, Atlas Masterline are very well detailed but you'll pay more for them. As for locomotives, Kato and Atlas Masterline Gold Series are great - the Kato units are the best out of the box ready to go models and very reliable. Their detail is a little less than the others, though. If you're wiling to spend a little more for the details, ScaleTrains is the way to go. If you can find some older models, Fox Valley are good (now owned by ScaleTrains). If you're starting out, Bachmann makes some reliable locos but the detail isn't great - unless you're getting their latest runs (see my Amtrak review). That loco is ESU sound equipped and the details are phenomenal.
The Bulk of My Freight Cars are MDC .
Getting re started
"spend money", got it.
to do it right, you're gonna spend money.
I would recommend...Get A Tripod for the camera
I started out in 2003 with a block DC layout, I didn't know DCC existed. I was using a MRC duel control N Scale power pack. Now I'm converting the layout to DCC with a Zephyr syst 23:53 em that I bought in 2018.
if you live in the birmingham area in alabama theres a great hobby shop called oak mountain hobbies, in pelham, they have RC cars, planes, boats, and best of all; trains
Great Video. I am just getting started in the hobby and having issues with my turnouts. I started with standard Atlas turnouts but I have issues with power interruptions when crossing the frogs. I am looking at PECO Electrofrog turnouts and it looks like they should help eliminate the problem. Do you have any advice on these?
Turnouts are a serious PITA. The Atlas ones i had were junk - had to file all of the plastic frogs out because most of my locos simply got stuck in them. Although, I do have one Atlas code 55 curved turnout and it's very reliable. I love the Kato turnouts because they seem to almost never foul and auto correct for powering the frog. I have not used Peco, but they seem to be an industry standard. Pay close attention to the wiring for the frogs - you're going to need either a frog juicer or a single-pole-double-throw (SPDT) switch to make sure you don't short the frog.
@@AlleghenyNorthern Thanks for the info. I got into the hobby not realizing how much knowledge and different skill sets are required. Your channel is helping a lot. The Peco turnouts are definitely better quality than the Atlas. I will order a Kato and see which works the best.
Thanks for sharing :-)
Great video. Thanks for posting. I'm looking to purchase my first train set and would love any suggestions you might offer. I'd like to buy a setup where initially I can run a simple 10 foot by 2 foot loop around the christmas tree. I have an open mind and a flexible budget. The track would sit directly on a wood floor if that matters. The ability to have sounds seems like something I would enjoy and I also liked the look of lighted passenger cars I saw with a Kato set. I know that's a separate purchase and install. Not sure if that's just a Kato thing or if all manufacturers offer light kits. I know the Kato offers some DCC ready sets which I'm open to. Maybe it makes more sense to purchase an M1 starter kit with some extra track which would give me more choices for the train itself. I'm also open to buying everything separately if that's what makes the most sense. I know there are always trade offs.Anyway, your thoughts on how you might proceed if you were in my shoes, not knowing if it will be a hobby or just a Christmas train, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Looks like you've done some research! First, Kato does make pre-lit passenger cars - they're a bit pricey but the work is done for you. They also sell the kits separately. You can light other manufacturer's cars as well - but you'll need to create your own alternative without a kit. I don't have any but understand Model Train Technologies makes such kits. The M1 is a good start - actually all of their sets are the way to go - that's what I did when starting. Back then, the sets were all V for variations and there were only a couple options. It allows you to add passing sidings, yards, bridges/risers, and other track features and you can move them around to your liking anytime you'd like. Kato's locos are DCC ready and I know that TCS and Digitrax offer drop-in decoders for standard DCC operation. I believe there are also sound versions available. I am not aware of any of the M sets that come with a DCC factory-equipped loco so you're going to have to make your own. Here's my thought - if you're setting this up for Christmas and to see where it goes - start with the M1 or M2 (loop w/ passing siding), get yourself a Kato DCC ready loco and the passenger cars with the lights - don't worry about the DCC system now - you only have 1 loco to worry about - maybe 2 if you get a little excited. Set up your Christmas display and play with the variations. After the holidays, once the bug bites you and you've got to have more, look into a DCC starter set - i recommend the DCC Zephyr Express - it's easy to set up, is 100% expandable, and simplifies a lot of the programming you'll need to do as an intro-level DCC operator. Now, you're only upgrading 1 or 2 locos to DCC. The cost difference with the M1/2 and the upgrade to DCC at this point is sort of negligible so you're not throwing a lot of cash away. If however, you've already changed your mind and you're thinking this is going to be a thing - just start with the DCC, lose the M1, and go with the Kato variations that don't have a power pack included. I don't know how strong the urge is but if it's anything above - "eh, i want i Christmas train", i highly recommend this second option. I think the sound functions will draw you in even more. One word of caution - if you're setting this up directly on the floor you're going to have to keep your floors exceptionally clean. My house is 90% hardwood floors and they get dirty fast. Your locos will suck up stray bits of hair, fuzz, animal fur, and other floor debris and once that gets wound into the gears it's a bit of cleaning. And never - never set it up on a carpeted area, even with the Unitrack - it'll very bad practice with very bad outcomes for your locos.
@@AlleghenyNorthern Great information, and I appreciate it. Noted, about keeping the floors clean and no carpet. That will be just for the holidays. I agree about the sound, and I would love to have it, so let me ask you this. From what I can tell, Kato engine + DCC w/sound, DCC Zephyr Express, rolling stock, plus track, is probably more than I would like to spend given that it is possible it will be just a holiday setup. So the obvious question is what about going with Broadway Limited or Atlas DCC w/sound, which seem to be less pricey? Is it worth the trade off, in your view? Other than possibly matching the engine (in the case of passenger cars) does rolling stock need to be the same manufacturer, and is there anything I need to be aware of in general with rolling stock? I see on some sets from Kato, when the train goes in reverse it seems to have a sort of engine like capability on the last car. It might be nothing more than a light to make it look good, but does the last car need to have certain capabilities? Can I use Unitrack regardless of manufacturer? A couple of these seem obvious, but I'd rather ask. I've done quite a bit of browsing on trainworld, other sites, and watched videos, but it's a bit overwhelming and for me at least not entirely clear. Which reminds me, what about dealers? Trainworld seems to get good reviews from just about everyone (sidenote, I grew up not far from their shop and visited as a kid) . Are their other dealers that you've had good experiences with? I can't thank you enough for taking the time to share some of your experience.
Well said! Great video
Great video. 👏🏼 😊
Thanks!
Ok.. I bought the book.
which layout are you going to start with?
I bought a 200+ mainline sd50 locomotive a 3 years ago around year 2 of owning it and finally moved states I took it to a open house RR club and tried to run it, it was dead on placing on the track, evidently the mainline locomotive I bought was trash from factory and I was more than pissed, I'm never buying another wathers product ever again.
I would like to know your recommended locomotive company. I watched another video and the guy claimed to have issues with other companies locomotives running well is now buying only Kato.
Kato makes great running locos so I do recommend them. I'd rate them as low-to mid-level detail. Atlas is another good manufacturer - especially their Master Line Gold Series. ScaleTrains is by far the most highly detailed and I do highly recommend theirs as well. For getting started, some of the Bachmann starters aren't bad - limited in sounds and details, but decent. Their higher end models are very good. Any of those manufacturers I'd highly recommend. If you want to branch out a bit further - Fox Valley is now owned by ScaleTrains and their stuff isn't bad. Hope this helps.
@@AlleghenyNorthern Thanks! I found your comment about the ease of wiring for DDC extremely helpful!! I have decided to go DDC out of the gate. I just ordered a Digitrax starter set. Looking into adding DDC and sound to my two Kato locomotives.
What model/engine/company locomotive is that beautiful Canadian National starting at 11:37?
That's an Atlas Masterline Gold Series loco. Quick heads up - it does not come with the snow plows; i had to add those as BLMA after market parts.
Great video! I see a consist of Kato bethgon coal porters in some of your shots. Did you replace the couplers with MT truck mount or body mount? Thanks
Good eye. Yes, I do have MT couplers on the Kato bethgons but they are truck-mounted. I went easy and fast over smart. To do again, I would do body-mount and may in the future correct that. But those Kato couplers were a PITA and I use MT as the layout standard.
@@AlleghenyNorthern Thank you kind sir for your input. Your videos help me a lot :) I have a couple ofKato SD40-2s with stock couplers that can't pull my bethgons with out derailing. Very frustrating. Now I just have to figure out which MT coupler to buy for the coalporters. There are so many options on their page. A bit overwhelming to say the least.
@@davec8401 so i bought their 10-car pack with roller bearing trucks and short shank couplers. TBH, i would have been better with a mid-length shank but i like the realistic close coupling the kato couplers do offer and the short shanks represented that pretty close.
cool
I do like the idea of the older style track with the cork bed and nailing everything down. But with the newer style track do you still have the wire the track like the old style? Where you had to wire ever track all the industries and all the yard tracks..Or is the just two connections and boom it’s and wired for use on all tracks.
so with the sectional track, i have power feeders every six-eight feet, which is further apart than some people would recommend but the Kato track joins so well, there's no lost connectivity between sections. I actually just discovered a 20 foot run with no power supply that's never had an issue - i found it by throwing a power routing turnout and stopping a train in the section. The more feeders you add the better - but it's reliable with minimal connections (I'm speaking for Kato Unitrack only).
I've been enjoying your videos. I started out a lot like you, got my first train set when I was 5, and have been hooked since. I was curious about how old you are. I'm 41 and I've only had a bigger well scened layout for 3 years, though I built some smaller ones and dioramas. I only ask because you sound younger, and I'm nosey.
You've got a few years on me. This is my fourth sceniced layout. Two in my childhood home measuring about 3x4 and 4x4 and then a larger 4x10, and now this monstrosity. if i ever contemplate a move, a key requirement will be the future location is at least large enough to house this layout but would prefer more room to expand, so i don't necessarily plan on making a fifth.
I have a few ho stuff but I wanted to convert to n scale Becuase of the size and the price being usually cheaper than ho.
I started out with the same digitrax controller that you have, what’s the name of that booster and the radio controller? And where did you get it?
I need to upgrade since I’m building a pretty long layout and I believe I’m going to need more power
So that's the Digitrax DB210 for the booster. The throttle is the DT602 Advanced Super Throttle. It does everything but make morning coffee - and does it all wireless if you're set up for it. Those items came from modeltrainstuff.com.
@@AlleghenyNorthern perfect thank ya!
Also track and track work. Don’t skimp or cut corners there.
So much truth here. Bad track is going to equal a bad time. I've fixed enough of it to know the value of this comment!
I bought the 3 year old a cheap battery set . It's about 84 x 47 inch.
But eats batteries..
oh yes, i know the set type. will definitely eat batteries like a hungry wolf to a deer but that's the gateway drug... one day the battery train won't be enough and here comes the Bachmann starter set!
@AlleghenyNorthern The Bachmann got closer today.
The brushes in the motor failed after 6 months of use. Between 1 and 2 hours of non-stop use each week.
This is definitely a tip for the more advanced modeler; one I learn over time as my collection and overall knowledge grew. But here one for ya:
If you are a stickler for prototypical realism in both appearance and operation; DO RESEARCH!!!
Learn how a grain mill operates if you include one in your layout.
Study how mixed freight consists are made in yards.
Learn all the little nitty-gritty details you can to aid in environmental storytelling.
If you're like me and you do this, you feel an extra sense of accomplishment when you know that your layout is a mirror image of reality.
Doing this may also help you save money where you might inadvertently buy rolling stock that wouldn't appear in the location you're modeling.
For example, looking up the reporting marks for many rolling stock helped me in preventing myself from buying a bunch of rapid discharge hoppers owned by a prototype company on the opposite side of the country my layout is set in.
Personally, I love paying special attention to tiny, almost unnoticeable details like that.
Nice layout, thank you
thanks!
Can you Please do a video comparing the advantages and disadvantages between a regular N-Scale train set and a Kato Unitrack Train Set?
Go Kato. their locomotives and track are superior to anything else you're going to get in a competitor's starter set. my opinion - but Kato makes some great stuff.
Great video
Thanks!
I have been in N Scale since the 1960s . No DCC for Me 😂
to each their own. i like the control and the sounds of dcc. it's simple in wiring but complex in programming. trains for me just run better in dcc.
@@AlleghenyNorthern I am not knocking it or You . I just dont have a Need . Sorry for the misunderstanding
@@victorbloom8286no offense taken. i started in DC and was getting frustrated with not being able to control consists. but i never wanted sound - thought it sounded terrible in n scale. now i only have sound equipped locos on the wish list.
Greetings from the Orange Belt MRR. Would an N scale trading exchange be a good idea?
i've never attended an exchange - but if there's one in your area - especially with a test track, i would recommend it's worth a visit. i would be VERY careful with places like Facebook marketplace and similar online exchanges that are person to person and items are not reviewed by someone independent before sale/trade. you can usually find some pretty interesting deals and discontinued items at swaps.
What track do you use? Great video
Thanks. I use Kato Unitrak and Kato flex track.