Triple-T #47 - How to get started at blade smithing
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- Опубликовано: 22 июл 2024
- In this week's Triple-T (tools, tips and talk) #47, we'll be looking and how to get started at blade smithing and what tools you'll need. Links below!
My Website: www.tyrellknifeworks.com
My Instagram: / tyrellknifeworks
Brodbeck Ironworks: brodbeckironworks.com/
Tools used/mentioned in this video:
(These are Amazon Affiliate Links and this channel gets a commission with no cost to you)
Mr Volcano 2-Burner forge ($135): amzn.to/2YjUuQJ
NC Tools Anvil ($388): amzn.to/3mTjLLE
Bosch 4.5" Angle Grinder ($59): amzn.to/36I2tbA
Buck Tools 2x42 Belt Grinder ($280): amzn.to/3BxB219
Estwing 3lb Hammer ($16): amzn.to/3yDllUb
Estwing 2.5lb Cross-Peen Hammer ($18): amzn.to/3zHgZNo
Full List of Product Links:
General Tools
Wen Horizontal Bandsaw - amzn.to/3nS7Vzi
Horizontal Bandsaw blade: amzn.to/2VctTTZ
Wen Drill Press: amzn.to/2YkqfG1
Wen Portable Bandsaw: amzn.to/3aKJvDX
Titanium 200 Welder: amzn.to/3jkqNoQ
Propane Torch kit: amzn.to/3oT3JyF
5" Vice: amzn.to/34PvAsF
Kant Twist 2" Clamp: amzn.to/3wp1hoB
Vice for quench plates: amzn.to/3hlZd9M
Checkering/Jimping File: amzn.to/34L2SJa
Magnetic Plastic Vise Jaws: amzn.to/3aLL4lh
Metal Ruler pack: amzn.to/2WOkHmr
Equal Distance Tool - amzn.to/2JoMUgD
Epoxy Color Powder pack: amzn.to/3nXgtoC
Edge/Center finder: amzn.to/38E3vFJ
Magnetic Angle Meter: amzn.to/3aKLBUo
123 Blocks: amzn.to/3hyhFwl
Height Gauge: amzn.to/3hnqF7a
Surface Plate (6" x 18"): amzn.to/2MdzEfR
Blue Dykem: amzn.to/2WQ4k8Q
Center Drills: amzn.to/3mTn3ev
Cle-Line Drill bits: amzn.to/3mMpTSo
Countersink Drill bits: amzn.to/38DoecD
Digital Calipers: amzn.to/3aHSdD3
Photography Light Box: amzn.to/3sFvOgh
Gas shock (10", 35lbs): amzn.to/3qM81JH
Nicholson Files: amzn.to/3dFLDyv
Nicholson 6" Files: amzn.to/3bnMJ0f
Nicholson Needle Files: amzn.to/3dGJS3Z
Carbide Burrs: amzn.to/2O2qjc8
Leatherworking
Thread spacing tool: amzn.to/3psKcpw
Springfield Leather 13ft Double Shoulder: amzn.to/3psoNgl
Dragon Scale Stamp: amzn.to/3prNidr
Basket Weave stamp: amzn.to/34NO0dd
Stone stamps (combo pack): amzn.to/3rysUJp
Dye - Dark Brown: - amzn.to/34QpbgS
Dye - Burgundy: amzn.to/37S1yGH
Dye - Light Brown: amzn.to/37RHx2Q
Dye - Tan: amzn.to/2KHR4kj
Dye - Blue: amzn.to/34Mbpfd
Snaps: amzn.to/2WPj1Jy
Daubers: amzn.to/3ugJIWJ
Grinding / Sanding / Finishing
Belt Cleaning Stick: amzn.to/3hoyzwY
Dust Collection System: amzn.to/34QqsVc
Loc-Line Dust Collection Tubing - amzn.to/3hlri17
Mother's Wax: amzn.to/2WQILF6
2x72 Leather Belt: amzn.to/3hqtdRZ
Sanding Drum Set: amzn.to/34MSlgB
Sanding Drum Sleeves: amzn.to/3rA6nMn
Grinding Wheel (variable speed grinder): amzn.to/3ppMSV2
DuraGold 220 grit Roll: amzn.to/3aK9TxI
Forging
100 lbs propane tank: amzn.to/3hnqhFK
Propane adapter: amzn.to/34OM6Jf
Pyrometer Gun (-2700deg): amzn.to/38HVgIy
Rigidizer: amzn.to/2M6otoZ
Kaowool 24x24x2: amzn.to/3ht50KT
Forge Scale Brush: amzn.to/3nWWgyY
Stainless Steel double forge burners: amzn.to/37RFFqG
Sealcoat HT Caulking: amzn.to/3poDTDB
1 1/4 Gate Valve: amzn.to/3hiV5HO
Pulley Block: amzn.to/3rHkn7k
1/4 Pressure Gauge: amzn.to/3pvmicW
1.4 Ball Valve: amzn.to/2M89evP
1/4 Needle Valve: amzn.to/3hne18d
Dayton Blower: amzn.to/2KZXPhf
Insulated Firebrick (12): amzn.to/3o5EZ6I
Mizzou Refractory (10 lbs): amzn.to/3pCQBhW
ITC-100 Refractory: amzn.to/3boZW9n
Ferric Chloride: amzn.to/2TNZSt7
Brownell Oxpho Cold Blue: amzn.to/3aTzcgO
Parks 50: amzn.to/3mV4eYd
Hardness Files: amzn.to/2L3O41C
Hydraulic Press
35 gpm Pump: amzn.to/34PEshP
Switch: amzn.to/3pyqrx7
Valve: amzn.to/2KId7am
Oil Filter: amzn.to/37SJDzG
Motor: amzn.to/38KohDQ
Reservoir: amzn.to/37To4Pj
Coupler: amzn.to/34MR7Sx
Surface Grinder
Slide table: amzn.to/3sFvKwM
Magnets: amzn.to/3sCMCV7
Linear Guide rail: amzn.to/3thKGBE
(These are Amazon Affiliate Links and this channel gets a commission with no cost to you) 
Хобби
Any tools I missed or other questions you have on starting out in blade smithing?
A good vise ore some clamps
@@tomershamir8789 yeah, I thought of a vise later. Certainly a needed tool. Thanks!
I'm guessing a pair of tongs would be useful also?? ;-)
@@BeeSting862 Yes and no... tongs are easy to make. I made my first set out of rebar and that worked for me for a long while.
I think you forget about good set of files:). Considering that you can do bevel with the files, but you can't make choil with belt grinder I would buy set of files at first, and next go with belt grinder :)
The one non-material item I've found is needed is patience! My first knives now serve as object lessons for me that I can't cut corners or try to do it faster than it really takes. And not using junk steel with the expectation that it will somehow transform into what I should have bought in the first place.
I would say that patience is one of the most important tools... unfortunately there's no where to buy it. If there was, my wife would have made me purchase it long ago! 🤣🤣
I never thought watching knife making was my hidden passion. Love your work sir, everyone randomly see your videos will love them.
I’m glad they are interesting to watch! Thanks for checking them out, Mohamed!
I really appreciate this video! I've been watching you, and a few others, for over a year. Thanks again!
Thanks for following the channel!
Thanks for the information and your time👍👏
Thanks for watching, Eric!
I’m all in . I need to do this
Get at it! 👍
I think you are a good teacher. I think also some tongs, vise and clamp should be need. 😁👍
Yes, all those are good and needed eventually. I think you could get by without them (or in the case of tongs, make your own). Thanks for watching!
Wow, a huge increase in subscribers since last I checked. Congratulations.
Thanks, Dominic! It’s been a whirlwind month or so! 👍
You can do 5160 and 52100 in Canola ok and works for those two more or less only
Once you're using carbon steels its just not a fast enough quench, Hortons K or Parks 50 really produce consistent results on the simple, carbon steels. For example the old standby 1084 will get upwards of 65-66HRC after being dunked in a fast oil, Canola you might squeak out 45HRC. A gallon or 4-5:L of these oils isn't that expensive compared to a bin full of unhardenable knives and your time wasted, likewise, peanut oil, motor oil, trans fluid or any of that stuff is basically not worth the effort you put into it.
Also make a good quench tank that won't fall over and set your shop on fire... and of an adequate depth for the length of knife you wish to harden :)
I can’t agree more. Watch my triple-T on heat treating. 👍
Ty, for the short class on starting.
I’m glad it was helpful!
Thanks Dennis nice info
Thanks for watching, David!
I’m getting started here… just found a great deal on a used grinder $1500 Reeder with all the attachments.
Wow, that's a good deal! That will definitely get you started in the right direction! If you're just starting out and you have questions and need help, that's what my Patreon is for. You'll get consultations on builds, an active chat community, access to all my designs and templates, free drawings, etc. Going through my Beginner Series playlist is certainly a good start though. 👍🏻
Thank you for the vid!
I’m happy it was interesting for you!
@@TyrellKnifeworks yes, I'm going to watch this whole series
Love your videos, will you ever upload a tutorial in basics of welding?
Also what sanding and cutting discs would you recommend for steel?
I did a video already on the basics of welding. Look back in the Triple-T videos. I didn’t show *how* to weld, I’m no welding instructor, but described the different types and why you would choose each. As for cutting discs, I just use the plain dewalt cutoff discs from Home Depot. I did a video on different metal cutting saws as well though, check that one out. 👍
Also, highly recommend Pop's Knife Supply for different materials.
I think I've probably ordered from them at some point as well. 👍🏻
Thank you.
Thanks for watching, Christopher!
When room allows, a 2x72 is next on my list. The 1x30 I have is just about adequate, but no better.
Helpful info, Denis 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Yup, I first bought a 4/36 (terrible idea) and literally a month later was building my own 2x72. I've never looked back. Thanks for watching, brother!
@@TyrellKnifeworks
You bet! 👍🏻
Un grand merci à vous pour le temps que vous passez à nous expliquer l'es bases de la forge et merci encore pour la traduction en français. Bien à vous...
Je suis content que ça ait été utile ! De plus, je suis canadien-français, je dois donc fournir des sous-titres français bien sûr ! 👍🏻
Thanks!!!
Thanks for checking it out, Pedro!
thanks for pointing this video out, selling the place outside Reno and moving somewhere around Vancouver Washington with less acreage maybe 5-10;. wife wants to get back to art wants to learn welding grandson and I enjoy your videos and will try blade smithing. good place to start. think they will ever open ab season again?
Thanks for checking out the video. I hope it’s helpful to you.
@@TyrellKnifeworks all of your videos have been well thought out, extremely helpful ; and saved for when we move and plan to start. the other coment about the lagonda bulldog is a car made by aston marton.
@@genekunkel8001 Ahh.. ok, I get the reference now. 👍🏻
I think the idea of making something yourself if your knew to welding and other processes is fantastic. Made my own coke forge from bbq with water tank, stainless steal chew iron and copper wound heat exchanger which was all knew to me, but having something that worked really well after was such buzz. In terms of the neighbors hearing you enjoy anvil work, I think you just have to pick the right times. Planning on making a press as I have many neighbors as I live in corner plot. I think what ever situation you can make it work🤘
Yup, I have neighbors and a press so I make sure it’s not after 8pm or really early. It’s so rewarding making tools and things yourself. That’s why I made my first forge and burner, so I KNEW how they worked and how to optimize them. 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks Spelling mistake I made, new not knew 👍
good vid ! thinking about setting up in my gardenshed. need to clear it and fix the roof first tho.
did u make the burners yourself aswell ?? would of liked to see the gas/air mechanism on your burners.
Keep it up
I built the burner on my first forge. These you saw in the video are purchased. I purchased those two burners for $160… the two-burner Mr Volcano for that I linked in the description is $138 for the whole thing!
@@TyrellKnifeworks alright thanks man, I'll check them out !
Are you familiar with Templstik. Heat testing crayons. Or any suggestions on any thing else for checking temperatures other than steel color. Thanks again for all your knowledge.
I've heard of those but have never tried them. I have one of those heat guns that are rated up to 2500F, but the range on them is crazy. They can vary by 100F quite easily. If you're just looking for 1475, the best simple solution... use some salt. It melts at 1474F. Thanks for watching, Ed.
If you don’t wanna spend 600 dollars you can but harbor freights 15 lb crappy buy cheap anvil and their surprisingly good 10 dollar angle grinder, while I didn’t take this path you can find a cheap 1 burner anvil on Amazon. If you have even one doubt you can’t start your forging journey get rid of it and start forging. I started with a few bricks, charcoal, a hairdryer, a hammer and (crappy) anvil. “If he could do it, so can you” - subnautica (I was also 13 when I started)
You’re better off getting a heavy piece of steel than a cast iron harbor freight anvil. You don’t need something “anvil” shaped, that’s what people fall for. The rest I agree with.
I'm looking at purchasing my first set of tongs soon. I'm curious what you'd recommend. A guy here in tubelandia said that slot jaw might be a good choice, but, there are so many other opinions.
It depends what you do. If you are working with similar size stock, box jaw rings are great. I really like v-bit bolt jaw tongs because I do Damascus and they are great for rebar that I use as handles. Z-offset tongs are great too. Check the video description for links to the ones I use. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks Denis, I'll check out the links as you mentioned :)
A new maker could probably get started with a piece of Railroad Iron often gotten from an old farmer.RR irons were used for thousands of cattle gaps to drive a car or truck across.Once bitten by the knife makers addiction (much better that TV and potato chips habit) one can invest in an anvil
Yes those could work too. Thanks for watching.
Great video Denis! To be honest, unless you not buying new one, trying to get good anvil might be very difficult for somebody who is not experienced. I'm still trying to find 100-150lb anvil and there is nothing interesting on the web. I think you get to the point- Get the biggest chunk of steel you can and use it as an anvil:). I did it, and so far it works (lol).
Yup, I wished I had researched a bit more when I bought my anvil. Oh well. Thanks for watching!
Old farmers estate auctions are a decent source of old anvils . Lot of old time farmers used anvils to hammer rivets into mower sections that cut hay .
@@randyblackburn9765 yup, that is one of the best places, but I think everyone is getting wise to the demand and value of anvils since FiF.
@@randyblackburn9765 Unfortunately I'm not living in US. I'm from Poland where 100-old anvils (those good one!) are use by "new generation" as a cutting block to their angle grinders. Barbarians, but it's truth
I was wondering about your background… what skills did you bring to this field?
I started bladesmithing just over 3 years ago with zero metal working skills. I bought a cheap stick welder and learned to weld from watching RUclips so I could build a forge. Then built a 2x72, then a power hammer and a hydraulic press. If you’re passionate, you can build anything! 👍
Hey! Can i ask what insulation you used for your forge?
This is the first forge I ever built. I used kaowool and actually used the wrong type of refractory so I had to reline it pretty quickly. I would suggest you watch my more recent forge building video for a much better forge build. Thanks for watching, Sam.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Will do! thank you :)
I guess I would be in the category of not ready to start forging don’t know enough. I have watched a lot of forging silent movies and talkies. I for one would like to give it a try. Why go out and spend $5,000.00 when I could get started for $1,000.00. Thanks for the information.
There's something very therapeutic about beating steel into submission! Try it. 😜
For the oils. Would used motor oil work?
Never use motor oil. It’s carcinogenic and is a terrible quenchant. If you can’t or don’t want to invest in real quench oil then stick to 5160 steel and use canola. See my heat treating video for more info.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you for letting me know
The comment I hear the most is space & neighbors, both seem to prevent a lot of people from starting, I understand why. As for the scrap yard, I'm not saying you're wrong, but I heard that a lot when I 1st started. I went to 3 & they looked at me like I was crazy & what they did have wasn't much cheaper. Now that was just my experience, so I don't want to discourage anyone from trying. I actually built a forge before I built my oven, but going outside to do everything got old real quick, especially with no protection. Hope all is well, take it easy.
Hey Dave... I didn't say scrap yard... I said steel yard. Go to your steel yard and see what they have in large steel drops. It's certainly not going to be $3-5 a pound like an anvil prices. Anvils are just stupid expensive right now. Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks This was 5-6yrs ago, so that makes sense. Yeah, scrap yard, steel yard, I thought they were the same thing. I tried steel sellers, but they said they don't sell cutoffs. This is big city D.C also, so might be different elsewhere. Definitely not a junkyard. Ya know, big crane, piles of scrap steel everywhere, hahaha
Steel yard here is definitely not a scrap yard. I’m talking about a steel supplier. Where I get all my steel tube, angle and general structural steel. They have i-beams and other heavy stuff as well. Thx
@@TyrellKnifeworks Right, I think in the city everything is industrial, so it's only big orders. I even checked with welding suppliers, but they basically said small stuff is all online around here & they'd have to special order small pieces. Take it easy.
I'm going in, lol...
Good luck, Brian! Thanks for watching
I’m a tractor trailer mechanic by trade. We throw away a lot of the old leaf springs from them. Is that steal the same?
Yeah most likely it’s 5160 spring steel. It’s very good blade steel.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I found out today, you are correct it is 5160. Unfortunately, I also realized the springs from a tractor trailer are almost a half inch thick. So I might want to just keep looking lol
@@pjinxhacks9568 haha, and 5160 is a tough steel to move under a hammer. 😉
@@TyrellKnifeworks i’m going to order a Mr. volcano next month. So I’ve got a little time to get a hold of some steal. A friend of mine has about a 14 inch piece of railroad track. It’s gonna take some grinding and some work, but I’m gonna try to see if I can turn it into an anvil
@@pjinxhacks9568 that should work. You might be better to stand it on end and weld a solid piece of steel to it.
Would be great to find a web service that ships a complete beginner's startup-kit, perhaps with financing options available to make it more accesible and more appealing
Yeah, that would be a great idea for these knife supply places like Jantz/Pops/Alpha/etc. If you pay me a kickback, I'll go click the buttons on Amazon for you. 😜
@@TyrellKnifeworks Being a welder I've got most of the tools and shop space already... just need to make a nice forge and anvil and I'm in the game! (after that is a logo -- thinking maybe a silhouette of some kind of marine life 🤔😉😅)
Well you’re almost there! Let’s see that first knife!
Can you please make a knife with these?
If you look back in my videos, the first dozen at least are made are made CDs with these tools. 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks Great! Also thanks for responding
Step 1: get an anvil
Step 2: seriously, just start saving for it now
Step 476: how's that coming along?
Haha, so true! Especially now, people are buying anvils at 6+ dollars a pound!
My dad passed in December, and he had an anvil in his belongings. 147lbs, I feel very lucky to have it. I have been making custom handles for a while now, but just starting to dip my toe into forging.
@@OUsniper1 that’s a great inheritance, definitely cherish that anvil! ❤️
😁😉🤘
Thanks for looking! 👍🏻❤️
@@TyrellKnifeworks you betcha Brother! 😉
Don’t you need tongs or something?
Yeah, but it’s easy to make tongs. I started my first couple builds with vise grips before I broke down and made tongs. 😜
Engineered quench oil for thin blade stock is a good way to burn your money. Seriously it is hella expensive, stinks to hell, releases toxic smoke and fumes and is a huge headache to dispose of properly. With reasonable blade geometry any preheated vegetable oil will easily quench blade stock fast enough to harden, even very pure unalloyed carbon steels, provided you thin out the cutting edge reasonably prior to the quench and move the blade in the oil. Engineered quench oil is designed for THICK stock. We're talking far beyond the realms of a blade. I would not consider it unless I'm exclusively working very pure unalloyed carbon steels without any manganese (hitachi white for example), in a production environment, for say kitchen knives that need to be screamingly hard.
Well, sorry but I think that is completely false. Canola is proven NOT to be a good quench oil, particularly for 10xx steels. You will get surface hardening only with canola. Why waste your steel and most importantly, your time, on sub-standard quench mediums.
3rd Comment
Thanks for watching!
In my opinion, if you don't know what you need then you don't need to be forging. Yet.
Well that sounds like a bit of an elitist attitude. Some people are curious where to start and if they really need a huge anvil and expensive hammers and such. Thanks for watching.
Ahhh gatekeeping....
@@astormofwrenches5555 ?
@@TyrellKnifeworks. Joking of course. If I didn't like you I wouldn't have said anything. Thanks for your reply.
@@TyrellKnifeworks but you are right about that lol.