3 SIMPLE things to achieve a solid forge weld a Damascus Knife
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2024
- In this fantastic knife making video for beginner knife makers, Graham Clarke talks about how to achieve an excellent weld by forging using his background as a metallurgist! He also shares a lot of knife making tips on forging stainless steel or carbon steel together!
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Want to know more about Graham's work? Check out his website: www.clarkeknives.co.uk Thanks for watching!
Thanks you for this information. There is too much incomplete information out there. This makes shopping for the right steal so much easier. This also helps when buying a blade.
You're welcome! Nice to hear you got a lot out of this vid!
This is why I do canister welds. Box the stack in thin steel and put a shred of paper in there to eat up the residual oxygen when it burns. I wrap the stack in stainless foil so it doesn’t stick to the box. Clean welds.
What is the reactive gas? What gas do I fill the canister with?
This series is the most informative out there about knife making. Please keep up the good work.
Graham is a fountain of knowledge! Thanks for the lovely comment!
Thanks 😊😊😊😊😊😊
It is a real delight to learn from you. Simple, Clear, straight to the point. And well, Graham speaking to the camera, just that is enough.
Thanks for that lovely feedback- me and Graham really appreciated it! I hope you’ll find our other videos just as useful! Thanks for watching!
- Vinz
Just amazing information. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the lovely feedback!
I love to hear Graham's explanations
Cheers Vagner!
After watching other knifemaker's youtube pages, it turns out these other craftsmen/ladies are not the gods of steel and dark magic I've thought them to be, apparently god is an Essex chap, and is called Graham lol. Jokin aside, I'd love Graham to explain Dirty Damascus, unground rusty cartwheel rims sandwidged by bandsaw blade for example and why it works, when grinding flat is the first rule of making sharp pointy things.
ANOTHER GREAT SHOW, so refreshing to see great content without being subjected to someone's dog /cat/fish getting petted, tea being made or beer being judged.
Hahaha thanks Chris! I appreciate you taking time to leave some feedback for us. And yes, Graham is an absolute wonder. We are all grateful to have him in our community!
Not all Essexboys are chomps hey 😂😂😂
Cartwheel rims were wrought iron - almost pure iron with a lot of impurities that when etched give a watery pattern, Most saw blades contain Nickel - it increases toughness at high (ish) hardness. Makes a reasonable combination for Damascus that will weld easily.
@@grahamclarke4470 I'm from Maldon, I wear my Essex mantel with pride. 😉
@@slackmack Maldon - that's a bit posh🤣🤣. I grew up in Thurrock but likewise never disguise where my roots originated 😊😊😊😊
Thank you! This is a great explanation!
Thanks, This has been very informative
Thanks Martin! I appreciate you taking time to comment!
That was very interesting video thank you for information :)!
You're welcome! Happy to hear you enjoyed the video!
Brilliant!! Love the pace. Thanks.
Cheers John!
- Vinz
Thank you. You’ve explained so much. You are very well educated on the topic and well able to explain the shop science to us.
Thank you for the comment and the feedback!
Brilliant 👍🤙
Cheers mate and nice to see you again!
Graham is funny as owt and GFS is without doubt the best place to buy.
🥳🥳🥳
Brilliantly informative video. A great series. The amount of knowledge and experience this man has to hand is stunning.
Hello mate nice to see you back. Yup, really delighted that Graham is an ally of ours, sharing his knowledge to the knife makers out there!
I was first bitten by the Metallurgy bug over 60 years ago 😊😊
What reactive gas is used to remove the oxygen from chrome oxide?
Chemically speaking I knew there should be a way to do it and the information you just presented was exactly what I had been looking for. Thank you very much for this very informative video. I would like to see a video on reactive gases as well if you have the time in your future Productions. Thanks again for your content. I will check out your website and hopefully order some materials from you.
Thanks Blaney Blades. Please check out Graham's website for his work: www.clarkeknives.co.uk
Lovely clear explanation of the how and why of the processes in solid phase welding. While I'll likely never get to try out any of this knowledge, I greatly value the continued learning.
Cheers Rob! I appreciate your time but also, may I ask what are the pressing issues from your perspective on stock removal makers? Would love to hear your thoughts!
I should preface this with context: I'm a hobby maker who makes a handful of knives a year mostly for my own amusement and the enjoyment of making them.
The issues I run into are things like: choice of belts (already covered), choice of steel (already covered), proper heat treatment (Graham exists), overheating the edge/tip (personal lack of skill, only happens when making a Bowie-style for some reason), wanting a better grinder (need to move house for space). Other than that there's figuring out when you have got all the scratches from the previous grit out when using a grinder. The scratches are all parallel so I find it really hard to tell if all the 60g scratches are gone when using a 120g belt. End up doing a lot of hand sanding because of this. Answer is "get better at grinding by doing it more" but I haven't put in enough time for that yet.
@@RobanyBigjobz absolutely great insight on your interest mate. Thanks man!
I will definitely make a follow-up video on abrasive belt use as stock removal makers rely heavily on these things like yourself and I feel that more knowledge could help you alleviate the issues that may seem small, but could make a big difference once solved (like your challenges on removing P60 scratches when moving up). I'm really excited to make this video now even more so mate! Thanks again!
European medieval method of making swords from spring steel or the Japanese method of katanas with a combination of harder steel and a softer outer part . My question is is it possible to make either a sword or a hard and durable steel on the inside and spring steel on the outside that is flexible and at the same time more resistant to blunting? I'm not sure if the same temperature can be used for both types of steel to get good internal hardening and spring effect at the same time. As far as I understand, the best katanas are made of 5 layers, the 3rd is thinner than hard steel, the 2nd and 4th are of medium hardness and the 1st and 5th are again of higher hardness so as not to be scratched from the outside. But is it possible to make it flexible and at the same time stiff in the middle?
Thats so cool!! This is super valuble info to makers. Can you guys make a vid about the forge welding of nickel in sanmai and what it does to carbon migration ples?? 😆
Thanks for your comment Cool Save. You also have a great topic to discuss with the Nickel in San Mai. Thanks again!
What do you mean by putting a reactive gas in the canister? Since gas expands when heated, it will tend to 'blow out' welds. So how do you keep a canister filled with gas intact while heating it to the forging temperature?
Could you give an example of a reactive gas for stainless forge welding? I use argon with my tig, could that be applied to this process as well?
Argon will protect a steel from further oxidation and is used to protect fairly reactive metals like titanium. Argon isn’t going to remove an existing oxides though.
I’d not very familiar with what ‘reactive gas” is, though. From basic principals I’m guessing it contains Chlorine or maybe Sulphur which will react with chrome oxide and help remove it.
Maybe grind off the oxide in a vacuum chamber then stick it in the canister and cover it with powder
So i have a question. Where could i get a reactive gas to use for high alloyed steel?
Ive been experimenting with forge welding high alloy steels. (And burning through too much money doing it). And ive tried a few things, but i hadnt considered getting a reactive gas for to make sure the chromium oxide layer is removed. I just tried to clean it off, and weld it quickly before it forms again. (With limited success). Im willing to try anything at this point.
We need an answer to this
@@safetylast911 yes!!!!
I would like Mr Graham to adopt me lol Awesome video as usual
You're not that rich - I don't come cheap 😂😂😂😂
Would he know anything about melting the metals, allowing, pouring or casting one's only alloy metal?
As a metallurgist I would imagine that Graham does know at least a bit about about casting and steel making. Both are quite different processes to forging, though. There is a video about steel selection which is the closest you’ll see on this channel, i reckon.
Excellent content. Thank you. Please work on the sound editing and balance. Music and background noises needs to be managed better.
Hi ghyslain thanks for taking time to comment! I appreciate your feedback on the sound levels - would definitely take that into consideration when editing next time. Do you know which time stamps specifically was too loud? Thanks for your input!
@@UKBladeshow would love to help out. but i can't find that video now. can you help and remind me via a link please? RUclips has a terrible search interface.
riiight. I am an idiot. Found it. Literally under my nose.
Here we go ...
0:58 fade in of heavy guitar overpowering his voice.
1:30 start of groove just ever slightly too loud for his voice
1:39 and 1:56 pounding the knife too loud
2:29 music a little too loud for his voice
2:46-48 still too loud - especially with the dead beat of no music to make a point.
3:12 - music volume appropriate as a segment marker with no voice.
4:02 back to music too loud over voice.
It's a shame, the content is excellent. He really knows what he's talking about, the accent, to North American ears, is fine and his voice characteristic are beautiful. He enunciates very very well, and he knows how to communicate.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for making an effort to highlight areas for improvement. 🎉 will definitely take your comments into consideration.
@@UKBladeshow no problem. keep up the great work. good luck.
another good information video, some stuff there I didn't know about as not got that far as yet, and likely now know what has gone wrong with some of my forge welding, mind it is a bit different using a coal forge, be very handy for many if you could come up with some real info to explain and such what and how to do things properly with a coal forge please, and yet again thanks for this one, again great info put across without all the bull etc
Cheers Andy for the feedback! I would definitely be interested in knowing that myself! Thanks for the suggestion and I’ll reach out to our community on who the best is with coal forging and get some tips if they’re happy to share for us!
A coal forge works the same way as a gas forge but is less easy to control. Once hot, you need to be able to control the amount of air going into the hot zone so that the hot coals use up all the oxygen. I believe in ancient times smiths would also use silver sand (very pure silica) as a flux.
I would really like to know how to add active gas to a SS Damascus canister.. My attempts on making SS Damascus has only been failure so far.. please help
Hi Anders thanks for the comment! Graham is going to talk to us at some point in the near future about SS Damascus and we will see if we can make a video about it too! Thanks!
Is there other fluxing agents that you would recommend other than borax... And what are some of the other reactive gases that you use when you forgeweld stainless steel?
I can ask our makers as well what they use for fluxing but borax can be a pain in the neck as you know - ruins your forge!
Are your temperatures in C or F Centigrade or Fahrenheit?
Hi. It is in Centigrade. Thanks.
Question. So if you have your correct gas and air mixture in your kelm. Is it still recommended to use Borax or does this correct air and gas mixture eliminate the need to use Borax? Tired of having to clean the mess or reline from the damage the Borax is done
That would depend on what steel you’re using.
If it’s a plain carbon or low alloy steel you should get away without the flux if you have the right gas mix in the furnace.
Stainless is another matter - you’ll still need to get rid of the chrome oxide layer somehow before you’ll get a decent weld. I’m certainly not an expert on fluxes or reactive gases that would do the job though - hopefully others will be able to answer that question.
If you get the gas/air ratio right you don't need borax. Once I stopped using borax I cast a new 1 inch layer on my forge floor and haven't had to touch it again for several years now.
@@grahamclarke4470 Yes I can get the mix correct . Take quite some time to get up to that temperature though But when it does Have right mix and temperature you can look at my calm and you just see one solid color Bright Orange to yellow . Don't see any Blue flame . I'm gonna try a San Mai This weekend and see how it goes
@@GemAppleTom Yeah I don't have the confidence of the equipment to play around with stainless yet . Not real sure I even want to
@@tobesmith7632 If you’re just* shaping your steel with forging, as opposed to making a Damascus type structure, then you don’t have to worry as much about gas mixes etc Stainless and high alloy steel do have their advantages but are a lot less forgiving with things like forging and heat treatment times and temperatures.
* he says ‘just’ like it’s the easiest thing in the world and sadly lacking any of the equipment to do knife making himself.
I have the gas turned up on my Forge right now and think I will run an experiment to see whether or not it is fuel or oxygen rich. Showing dragon's breath as you so called it
Hi Blaney Blades thanks for watching!
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Thanks Anatine! 👍👍👍