Triple-T #94 - Layered constructions: how thick should the layers be?
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2022
- #tyrellknifeworks
In today's triple-T (tools, tips and talk) #94, I'll be covering this question about layered constructions that's been asked frequently: how thick should the layers be?
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Хобби
Any questions about layered constructions that I didn't answer? Let me know!
You didn't make any allowance for layers that squish different. Wrought iron will squash way more than 52100, making the final billet different ratio to the start
@@iolithblue while that’s true, it doesn’t actually make an appreciable difference I’ve found.
lease forging sword SHAMSHIR
That was a much needed video. I could have used it a while back. But u still illustrated a few points that I hadn't fully thought through. Thank you for everything you do for the knifemaking community
I'm glad it made sense and you still got some tips from it, Joseph.
Thanks Dennis! I'll be attempting my first san mai this week in large part due to the advice in this video
I’m glad it was helpful, David! Thanks for watching.
Hi! Although the video does not show the creation of knives, everything was exactly interesting to watch. thank you for your work and the joy you bring to people👍👍👍
He has plenty of videos in which he makes knives. This video is just an instructional to help people build there own knives and how to get certain designs to work more functionally.
Thanks for watching!
FACINATING!!! Have no idea what your on about but absolutely FACINATING!!!
These Triple-T's sometime get technical for knife makers. This is one of them. 😜
More great information. Thanks Dennis!
Hopefully you put it to use! 👍
Great video. Thanks for the breakdown brother 👍
I'm glad it made sense. Thanks for watching, Michael.
That was very informative, thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching, Greg!
Thank you for all the useful information. 👍
Thanks for watching, Keith!
That and maybe thickness starting point for a stock removal knife for mono steel for those unable to forge but still wanting to get into the craft
That depends on what you’re forging. I do cover that in my beginner series. 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks must of missed that lol I'll have to rewatch then
Very very beautiful, thanks for sharing my friend 👍👍👍👍👍👍🥰♥️
Thanks for taking a look!
well presented, thank you! The rule of thirds has done it for me. 🙂
Thanks for watching, Harry!
Good morning brother great video like always
Thanks for watching!
Nice looking knife! It’s great you were able to get your daughters involved!
Get my daughters involved? How so? Thanks for watching, Scott.
Along a similar vein, itd be cool to see some general math/calculations/ how to guesstimate what dimensions you to get a certain shape, size etc knife
Those are relatively simple volume calculations. The trick (and variable) is what you're using to forge. If you're hand hammering, you'll be generating a LOT more loss due to scale. It also depends if you plan to forge to shape or rough forge a bar and then stock remove the rest. Calculating the height/width/length of a stack of steel and what you're desired height/width/length of a final blade is relatively easy. Moving it into that shape and how you do that is the tough part. Thanks for watching, Sasha.
The more I learn from watching your videos, the more I realize I don't know!
We all learn every day, brother! Thanks for watching.
I don't know English, but I'm lucky to have Internet and Baidu translation software! I hope these illogical statements will not cause you trouble! You are one of my two favorite knifes in RUclips! I watched most of your videos. If time permits, I will watch all your videos! I learned a lot! Your reply to each knife friend proves that you are a noble person! Dennis, bless you! Because of you, I will embark on the path of a knife maker. Learn from you! Attachment: the other is "Kyle Royer knives", a handsome man with bald head.
Thanks for following the channel! Good luck on your journey in knife making. Kyle is certainly an inspiration of mine and I had the chance to chat with him at Blade this year. He certainly embodies a master smith! ❤️
@@TyrellKnifeworks I'm so glad you met! You are happy!
Oh aye, that was a good one :D Cheers! Extremely helpful :)
Im glad it was helpful, David. Thanks for taking a look.
Denis! You da man. 🤘❤
Thanks for watching, Matt!
Speaking of layered construction.... Definitely looking forward for the next one and it's gonna be Viral. 🤘🤘
I'm doing final edits! I may drop a teaser on the community page so everyone can get a glimpse and be geared up for the Sunday build video!
Hi Dennis
Just wanted to say thank you for all the educational videos. Im really interested in starting out making my own knives! Its not possible at the time as im living in a big city and no place for a workshop. But perhaps a bit later in life - and by watching your videos I feel confident that I could maybe make a knife my self in the future :)
Great to hear you have some of the knowledge now. I’ll be here when you get to starting. 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks 😁
Hey Dennis! Thanks for all the videos, they are extremely well made and informational. Love all of your work!! Being European I really would wish it'd be explained in metric though haha. The imperial system and conversions within the system are just ludicrous (if you're used to the logical metric system). But I guess this forces me to learn something new.
Keep it up, i'm a big fan!
Yes, sorry but it’s hard to pause and do conversions for everything as I’m speaking. I’ll try to put the conversions in post editing in future. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks That would be really awesome! Thanks a lot
Thanks Denis! This definitely answered many of my questions. My other question was more about mass to length. How much steel do you need to start with if you want to make a longer blade? (sword length, like 33 in blade and 42 overall?)
It depends on a few things: 1) are you hand forging? If so, you’ll lose a lot more to scale. Sometimes up to 1/3. 2) are you forging to shape or making a flat billet then doing stock removal. For layered constructions I caution against forging to shape. I usually am doing width calculations only and trying to draw it lengthwise. If you have something 3x thicker than your end thickness, you’ll probably get just over 2x the length, depending on the drawing method. If it was a rolling mill, it tends to draw in only one direct, whereas a press with flat dies will draw in all directions. A hand hammer depends on the shape and user.
Good info as always. So, can you do a copper layer without a press?
Yes, you certainly can. Others have been successful doing it for sure. Thanks for watching, Stephen!
Thanks Denis I think that worked quite well, I don't work in inches so much but I could follow what you were doing.
Is there a way of calculating how much wave you can put into the pattern as in how much the steel/copper layer wil dip towards or away from the edge as you grind the bevel?
Simple answers on 3 sheets of A4 paper please......
Calculating the height of the waves is tough. It's one of those things you just need to practice. The key is hitting it with the aggressive dies and then using flat dies to stretch it out after that. Thanks for watching.
Not a question, but a consideration. Some steels move at different rates, like stainless or mild, so you might have to adjust your ratios
Yes, some steels move at different rates but I’ve not found that to be very consequential in the actual forging. It’s not that noticeable unless you’re dealing with extremely thick layers.
That was great Denis! Brought a lot to my attention.
If I were to forge something with the intentions of having a single edge, would I use a thinner piece if the edge steel or thicker?
I’m not entirely sure I understand your question. If you wanted to forge the bevel in, you’d need the core to be thicker. I don’t recommend forging any layered construction to shape. You just risk moving your core and thinning out the layers for no really good reason. Let me know if your question was something else.
Concerning the cu-mai and over heating it (melting the copper). Couldn't you heat it up in a PID controlled heat treating oven instead of the forge? That would give you more precise and even heating, then you could nail the perfect temp for sticking it all together without "guessing" in the forge?
Sure you could. Baker tool and Forge does that for their billets. I did that for the gold build I did where I needed it under 1700F.
deep knowlegde here, WAY over my head
Some day you might need it! 😜
@@TyrellKnifeworks if you had a choice between me & a drunk russian from a gulag locked up for pushing his mom down the stairs to make you a knife, go with the russian =/
Ok so quick question. Is there an affordable way to get the tools that you’re using? I’m only 17 ab to turn 18, but I do have a decent paying job. I make roughly $9.00 an hour, but I also get roughly $40.00 in cash tips alone excluding online and digital tips. I’m saving money for whenever I need it, so that when I’m ready to buy my own car or house or whatever, I have what I need. So I want to do this, but the way I save money doesn’t allow me much spending money so I don’t know where to start looking.
You don't need all the tools I have. I didn't start with all these and if you watch my early videos, you'll see much less. I suggest you start by watching my Beginner Series. The first video is about how to get started with very limited tools: ruclips.net/p/PLHVzgUOE_KDIKvo0B4kLV56S8GxHuecGa
@@TyrellKnifeworks ok thanks a million man!
But… but what about having materials that move differently while being forged.
Yeah I know lol. I had to leave some kind of comment for the channel. 😉
I’ve never seen that effect it much. It’s so minuscule that I doubt it changes things much. Thanks for watching and commenting, Erik. 😉
You didn't mention how thick other layers should be for something like the copper go-mai. You might not want to be too thick so you don't have a huge copper line in your knife but the same can be said for too thin
I’ve mentioned that in my cumai how-to video. I use .020” copper sheeting. That’s the perfect width I think. 👍
Hypothetically If you did a 5 layer with copper between steel, if you weld up all the sides air tight and get it hot enough to melt the copper, wouldn't that technically weld the steel and copper together?
You don’t need to melt the copper. You just need to get it about 1800F. I’ve done that technique many times. Look at sone of the videos in my library. I also just did this with 24k gold layers in my most recent build!
@@TyrellKnifeworks perfect thank you for all this helpful content!
I don't understand, why do you talk to much?
🥱🥱🥱🥱🥱
It’s an instructional video. What did you expect??
@@TyrellKnifeworks
I like your videos, I subscribed to your channel a long time ago but you don't have to waste time just start your project.