Luminosity vs Normal Modes for Flambient Processing
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- This tutorial expands on flambient by not only showing why Luminosity blending mode is preferred for ambient layers, but also why, if you find Normal mode looks better that something else is wrong. For more on my REP series see amzn.to/3mFoznx
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These videos are just another way of telling me I still have a lot to learn.
Best teacher on real estate photography on RUclips. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge!
Your tutorials are absolutely perfect
Another great video Nathan! Thanks! I am glad I bought your e-books, it has taken my realty photography to a whole new level. I shot 4 properties this week!
Excellent and informative. I was confused with luminosity mode and this explained lots.
Such a huge time saver. You rock Nathan!
Thank you Nathan! All of your videos really did help me lot. Looking forward to see next one..!!
Excellent video. I just bought your advanced book on interiors and read it cover to cover. What a great book!!
I finally learned how to do this from watching your videos for hours and hours and I couldn't be more proud of myself THANK YOU SO MUCH I'm so excited right now
You are the best! I am glad that I bought your book!!! I am going to buy all of them!!! Greetings from London!
Nathan I am so grateful for all that I have learned from you. I have bought a selection of your books although I prefer to learn from these videos I am sure they will be super helpful and I feel like I need to buy the books as a way of compensating you for all I've learnt.
Thank you so very much for having great content and message consistency. Never get tired of watching your videos and reading your books! A local realtor has been letting me shadow her while she has a “tour factory” rep taking images. In all cases they are taking single images using flash with a soft box. Would imagine they are running the images through LR with presets because they get images back to her within a few hours. She likes the images I provide using your and Rich Baum’s techniques but is more comfortable with their straight flash. In either case, I’m still practicing with your methods and hope to someday have a marketable skill! Thanks again for providing inspiration!
Fantastic tutorial! Thank you for your effort!
Nathan, your videos are awesome!!, they're so good I had to buy your ebook, thank you so much!!!
Awesome as always! Much appreciated.
Always helpful!
Thank you Nathan!
Thanks Nathan. I am playing catch up with your videos and not watching them in sequence. I spent a couple of hours on Google yesterday, trying to understand Luminosity blend. This video explained, very eloquently, the hitherto unfathomable mystery of Luminosity. Thank you.
Excellent content yet again. Thank you.
this is golden. thank you sir!
incredible
Good stuff Nathan!
Love this,,,,,,Thank you so much....
Very good content once again.
amazing and very imformative
Hi Nathan, thanks for the informative videos you put out. Do you also have some recommendations when somebody wants to have pictures of his house shot during sunset, for more dramatic looking photos? How to deal with color in this case? Would be awesome if you could make a video about this. Thanks again. Matt
Excellent
Your the best!
Thanks, Nathan but at least for me, I haven't been using the Luminosity mask as I should be. Instead, I have opted to use a present for ambient yellow out and ambient blue out. I just finished a shoot where the main room had lightly stained vaulted wooden (yellowish) ceiling, one pink wall in which the sun from the windows was hitting on, along with the wood ceiling and wood floor, mix in the two white walls and the yellow lightbulbs. I had a hodgepodge of color cast everywhere! In a side by side comparison, I did my regular edit using my presets and then your Luminosity mask Ambient Layer. Hat Tip to you! Your process removed all the pinkish-yellow I was getting on the white walls AND it was quicker to edit. Thanks again for another great video.
If you're seeing those kinds of problems then something is wrong, so making a preset to lower yellows and blue, etc. is a bandaid of a bigger, more overarching problem. More than likely you are either seeing a problem with your camera's AWB (common with unevenly distributed flash), or you're seeing a debayering problem. I help trainees fix that issue a lot, and I show a fix in an earlier video at ruclips.net/video/WpM85Xov28g/видео.html ...but basically, if you find that you are needing to do that much tweaking with colors, then I'd suggest digging into the problem more and see where your problems are coming from. BTW, not to sell myself, but I do provide one-on-one remote coaching where I can help analyze these issues with you. If it's something you might want to try, just shoot me an email and I'll give you the low-down, nathan@nathancoolphoto.com
If you're seeing that much of an issue with AWB, then something is wrong. I'd need to see your work and understand it more...would require a coaching session with me. But to your question, No; it matters...a lot. If you have to constantly adjust WB in post you're using valuable time...which is money...which buys beer...and beer is good...therefore AWB issues are bad.
Excellent. Tnx.
Thanks:)
Thank you for another excellent video! You make it look so easy.
P.S. I am curious to know how you would fix the light bulbs in the picture. Maybe an idea for another tutorial :).
Thank again!
Thanks! I actually cover how to repair burned out bulbs in my advanced editing e-book, see the "Fixing Burned Out Bulbs" section in the "Area Patch Repairs" chapter: www.amazon.com/dp/B0779PCVWC
Congrats...
Hi Nathan, Firstly thanks for all your free videos. I have learnt a lot from your videos and I have just scratched the surface. Just wanted to ask you this: How did you even figure out/learn about all these Photoshop tricks, color cast issues with ITTL/ETTL triggers etc ??
Thanks Rodden. It's a great question, and since I get asked that quite a bit, I posted something on my RUclips community page if you'd like to read more about that at ruclips.net/channel/UC_7KM3ANRHy2zhQ_zl-C4XQcommunity?lb=Ugkxb6deKexbo4wmFWbiknztHwlckjGuDA54
Always informative, Nathan. What sort of power level are you using for the Explorer 600 in this video? I don't own one yet and am trying to get by with 2 speedlights for most rooms, one on a stand and one handheld.
Thanks! This other video should help: ruclips.net/video/tK5FQdTr-fA/видео.html
Nathan, Thank you for your super informative videos and tutorials. Your a good teacher and explain things very concisely. I have one question for you. In watching the third example here, I noticed that the top layer is the ambient, as always, and then you have 2-3 other flashed shots plus your window pulls. I understand you might have skipped over the window pull edit for saving time here but I am confused as to how you blend all of the flash shots when it looks like you've only used the top flash shot w/ a mask to blend the one shot below. How do the other flash shots play into the processing, if at all?
Hi Brett, I have step by step instructions that can help in my interiors e-book, here's the link: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Hi Nathan,
Love the videos. Do you always have your camera set to auto white balance?
For interiors, not exteriors, and with validation.
Another great tutorial Nathan. I did have a question about lumosity mode. A lot of times when I use it, it takes almost all the color out of the ambient image. Is their a way to edit or shoot an image that can minimize desaturation?
Thanks! The problem you are describing is likely caused by not having enough flashed light in the areas you are painting in luminosity...it's common in long rooms, and best accomplished by lighting the length of the room with a composite. Not enough light in your flashed frames places color in the darkest end of the spectrum, thereby losing the color (increasing blacks). To know for sure what you are up against and help you with it, the next step would be a coaching session with me...you can email me for more info on that at nathan@nathancoolphoto.com
Thank you for your many tutorials for real estate photography!! I have used many of your techniques; I should say that I am busy practicing your techniques around my house too!! :). I currently shoot with a Sony 6500 with a 10-18 lens and my lights are the Godox 350 and the Godox 860. Just beginning to work with off camera flash so I am really liking the flambient style of shooting. However, with my settings similar to yours (f/8 and ISO 320) I am really struggling to get my ambient even decent and my flash seems to struggle with enough light. I realize that what I see on playback on the camera is a JPG image and not the true representation of the RAW, so when I get them into LR they are even darker. Frustrating to say the least and it just ends up with way more processing than I want to do. Any tips you might have with the tools I currently own? Perhaps I just need to have my flash on full power for every room just to give more light? Thank you very much for your time! :)
Hi Sarah, you're very welcome. It sounds like there are a few things at play here. First, your aperture is a bit small, you can go wider to f/7.1 or even f/6.3 if you have to without sacrificing much DOF, and doing so will have less stress on flash. But, I suspect the biggest issue you are facing is how you are interpreting your exposure by using your camera's backscreen display, which won't be accurate...not because of the JPG it displays, but in its brightness vs ambient surrounding. Because of that, I recommend a histogram technique that works rather well to ensure you are exposing right of center, and something you can do with just about any camera. There are some histogram tutorials on my channel, but I break all of this down...and more...in e-book #1 (interiors), which I'd recommend; it's one of a 5-part series at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KPJ5QQ8?ref=series_rw_dp_labf I recommend the e-book versions as they are less expensive, can be read on any device, have interactive links to tutorials, gear, and places within the books, and images are a much higher resolution to see screen shots and such. If you get stuck, I also offer remote one-on-one coaching where I can review your work and help you further, just email me for more info on that at Nathan@NathanCoolPhoto.com
@@NathanCoolPhoto thank you for your assistance. Practiced again today and exposed my ambient to what it looked like as more even to mid. Helped a bit but definitely need to practice more. I have a shoot on Wednesday so I am hoping this technique will work in that home. Planning to start shooting around 2:30-3:00 so hoping for good even light. Seeming to have better light performance having my 860 just off camera a bit rather than closer to the ceiling as a bounce. Thank you again for your help...plan to look into your e-books for more help!! :)
Thanks again Nathan. One question, in your first example you use the AD600 for a pretty small dining room. Was that out of convenience or technique, and if technique, please explain. Thanks!
Convenience. Sometimes I get to a point where I just walk around with the XPLR, usually after doing the big spaces where I need it on a stand so that I can walk around with smaller lights. The XPLR has a nice grip handle, so it makes it easy to walk and pop :)
Great info, Nathan, as always. I have a question, though. I live in an area predominated by cabins, log homes and lots of tongue-and-groove ceilings. Obviously bouncing off of the ceilings is a problem... color cast and lack of reflected light. What are your thoughts on using a shoot-through umbrella elevated high by hand-holding on a light stand? Thanks.
STUs can help, also do a reflector bounce like I show in the interiors book. The Flash Settings video shows an example of that as well.
@@NathanCoolPhoto Thank you!
8:40 ---> and you have a request from me, kind sir. 😉 would love to see your input and take on those things. I found myself in that particular scenario quite a few times and ended up delivering images where some lightbulb did not work, because my ps skills haven't been good enough for decent light "replacement"... Thank you in advance and thank you sooooo much for your really quality content you are providing. Cheers from Slovenia.
Thanks! And cheers to Solvenia from California! I'll definitely give some thought to a tutorial on that. I do though cover how to repair burned out bulbs in my advanced editing e-book, see the "Fixing Burned Out Bulbs" section in the "Area Patch Repairs" chapter: www.amazon.com/dp/B0779PCVWC
Hi Nathan which one of you books goes thru the editing flambient technique with photoshop and lightroom? Interiors book or advance editing? Thank you
Interiors book
Nathan Cool Photo I already bought the advance editing lol I’m going to buy the interiors book as well. Thank you
what size do you start with your raw photos when you dump them to the computer? my raw files are gigantic so I'm trying to figure out what's a safe good size to downsize them to before working on them.
RAW, full size. Storage is cheap :)
Off Topic Question, do you set your lens focus to Manual when doing your com-posit flash shots, so it doesn't refocus on you?
Great question. I use auto focus all the time, but I make sure to focus on something in the distance in the center, knowing I'll be on either side of the frame.
@@NathanCoolPhoto Thanks Nathan, I so love your style and have been hesitant to try the compost since I have never had any luck using the Cam Ranger. I have read and re-read the first three books many times, time to crack open your fourth.
Great technique! I wonder if this is the method you use to use for real estate. That is too much time for that industry that pays so little. Do you have a technique to be more efficient? Is it in your book?
Hi Jose, yep, this is the process I use, and yep, it's in my books. It's very efficient, and like most things that provide higher-end results, it takes practice; the first time you try this it will definitely take more time, but with practice it goes very fast. Also, when you can show that you can do high-end work, you have the potential to pick up high-end/high-paying gigs, which is something I delve into, for instance, in my book on business techniques for REP. Here's a link to my REP book series if you're interested: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
@@NathanCoolPhoto thank you for your answer. Is there such a thing like "high end clients" the city where I live, even the luxury houses use the basic photography service.
Hi Jose, of course there are high end clients...everywhere. To overgeneralize clients into a low-end vendor selection category is doing yourself a disservice :) It's defeatist, actually. Don't accept failure so easily. Bottom line: no matter where you are, there will be, somewhere nearby, designers, builders, remodel companies, magazines, architects, and luxury real estate agents who would be willing to pay for high-end work; if, however, you can prove to them that you're worth their investment. In other words, the ball is in your court, but the world can be your oyster...if you can do the work and show you are a worthy investment for client returns. There are numerous ways to approach this, some of which I talk about in the biz teq book. Here's a link to it if you'd like to check it out: www.amazon.ca/dp/B07Z9KKGCS But, remember, you can't get high-end work unless you can shoot high-end. Prove your worth, know your market, know how your market could change, and approach your business plan accordingly.
@@NathanCoolPhoto thank you! Appreciate your knowledge
What do you set your white balance too?
It depends, it differs between interior and exterior, and there is validation processes I use as well, which I show in books #1 and #3, with advanced validation in book #2: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM/?ie=UTF8&redirect=true&ref=series_rw_dp_labf
Hey Nathan, I was following along with an image I had just taken for someone selling a condo. I was trying to desaturate a color cast on the ceiling much like in this video but, after I drew a selection using the polygon tool, feathering, adjustment layer, hue/ saturation, when I would slide the saturation slider the entire image would desaturate instead of just the area inside which would not desaturate at all. Help! I could not find anything to "invert" the selection like the radial filter in Lr where you can invert the mask. What am I doing wrong?
Sounds like you added an inverted mask. Click on the mask and do CTRL+i to invert it back.
@@NathanCoolPhoto that did the trick! Thanks so much Nathan!