The KEY to Successful Exposure Blending For Stunning Interior Photography
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- Опубликовано: 2 ноя 2022
- The best technique for combining exposures with maximum control for a quality result. I utilise this luminosity masking panel (bit.ly/3dpGeub) for accurate masks and seamless blending.
When it comes to finishing my work I use Color Efex (bit.ly/nik-collection-dxo) which is part of the Nik Collection. It has a detail enhancer, local and global contrast enhancer all of which can be applied as part of a preset to quickly level up your architectural photography.
𝗥𝗲𝗰𝗼𝗺𝗺𝗲𝗻𝗱𝗲𝗱 𝗦𝗼𝗳𝘁𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗲
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🤩 Luminosity masking panel for Photoshop: bit.ly/3dpGeub
💪 High end finishing and effects bit.ly/nik-collection-dxo
𝗨𝘀𝗲𝗳𝘂𝗹 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
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I've been doing HDR photo shoots for real estate, but didn't understand evrything going on behind the scenes in lightroom. The way you broke this down using the controls was amazing. Thank you...
Outstanding video, mate! To the point with lots of valuable information. I’ve been in the business for 20 years but there’s always something new and interesting to learn. Keep up your great work!
Probably one of your best videos. Loving that Lumenzia.
Really good, well constructed tutorial. Thank you!
Anthony, Yes please do a tutorial on the complete workflow for blending exposures for Architectural Photography and Real Estate. Thank You for all your hard work, Conrad
Thanks, I'm just a novice but your second person today that has recommended the blend approach over flash for interiors.
You keep knocking it out of the park mate! On my jobs now I'll shoot with my lights, but will always capture brackets so I can practice this method and compare the two. I'm not confident enough yet with blending to leave the lights at home. Cheers!
Sounds like a perfect plan 👌 You're following my golden rule for paid gigs. C.Y.A. Make sure you get what you need to keep your client happy. If that's shooting brackets and lit shots for now then so be it. I was being a little facetious saying "forget flambient" because for sure it has it's place for visual problem solving 😀
Great video, thank you. Very professional and very well told.
Key point on flash vs ambient is that in Architectural modern designs light is part of the design so you always got a nice spread of ambient and fixtures in most rooms to work naturally. In real estate, plenty of properties with dark rooms and small windows, low ceiling etc, bad layouts etc - no chance making them look good without flash.
I appreciate what you're saying. Do you have any small room examples that you have a bracketed set for? If you can send them as raws to anthonyeditsyourphotos@gmail.com I can take a look because I'm not convinced that flash is necessarily the "correct" solution. But without seeing an example it's hard to be definitive in saying that.
Best channel for all this.. appreciate you!
Very informative and to the point. Good video !
Good reasoning for all the effort, with a goal, a final visual expectations
Thanks for all your work on this video. Seems like a lot of work and a lot of time editing.
You're absolutely right! There's a lot more work goes into each video than most people realise. Thanks for the acknowledgement! 🙂
You rock my brother, great job as always. One Love!
Thanks Man! 😀
I'm going to have to watch this again:)
love your tutorials. COMPLETE WORKFLOW please!
Complete workflow..great !!!
Thanks for the vote, I've recently put up a complete edit, start to finish tutorial: ruclips.net/video/_BrFUT9t7oA/видео.html
Thank you very much. I've learned a lot from you😀
Great to hear 👍 Glad this has been helpful 😀
Complete workflow, thank you
Hi Denise, thanks for the vote on a full workflow video, here it is: ruclips.net/video/_BrFUT9t7oA/видео.html
Hey this is so good, it finally work. haha. did not matched the midtones in the beginning - and now it looks great with lumenzia. Thanks for your work and sharing your knowlege!
Crazy good content man, precise and very usefull !!
Thanks 😀
Great tutorial, always informative
Thanks!
Thank you so much! It was so helpful!
You're welcome!
Hi. Very interesting technique and very well explained. Everything makes sense and the look is absolutely natural. I only wonder on how you deal with color, as ambient lighting brings in a ton of mismatches and, besides using color effects pro, what you think about the contrast/detail loss that comes with ambient bracketed lighting? The use of filters always scares me a bit and using color effects pro might make detail fake?!? maybe? Thank you for sharing your precious experience.
Great video. I would like to see a complete edit. Maybe some behind the scenes of the shoot itself. Thanks.
Complete workflow, great stuff
Noted. Thanks Michael.
Hi Michel, thanks for the vote on a full workflow video, here it is: ruclips.net/video/_BrFUT9t7oA/видео.html A start to finish walkthrough on an architectural edit.
Awesome video!
Thank you
Thanks Anthony! I was using TK panel but Lumenzia looks super intuitive
It really is! Thanks for the comment Mark!
loved it. thanks for the info
You're welcome 😊
Excellent! Would love to see you’re complete workflow.
Thanks Jeff. As if by magic.... ruclips.net/video/_BrFUT9t7oA/видео.html
Thank you🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
This is great! I won't even tell you what I was doing in LR before this : ) Although, my images didn't line up. Do I need to use the guided transformation in LR on all three images simultaneously? Thanks!
COMPLETE WORKFLOW PLEASE 😻 Im an amatuer photographer currently shooting real estate pics... this video was a whole lotta help thanks G!
Nice work, it looks a little Flat but it works as the base of edition. One doubt I have is How do you get rid of the bloom or "fog" when using long exposure? I'm tired of that, because that haze doesn't let me use it as I need it. I had to buy an external light but that doesn't optimize my workflow.
Yes. Let's see a Complete Workflow!
Hi Jackie, thanks for the vote on a full workflow video, here it is: ruclips.net/video/_BrFUT9t7oA/видео.html
complete workflow
Very well presented and absolutely helpful video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Actually I was looking for a video for "high end" architectural photography, that looks very natural. I would appreciate a more complex example, with a more contrasty interior (here the light floods in from almost all directions) and the use of strobe which, I think, is the only way to eliminate large reflections especially on the floor. Or not?
Hi mate. Cheers for the feedback. I'm sure I can put another more in-depth example together if I get enough requests (takes a while to do the vids so I put it out there for "comment vote" as to what content I create). Yes minimizing reflections / overpowering them is a good use for a flash.
@@archiphoto I'd like to see your approch in those difficult situation
Great tutorial! Complete Workflow would be great!
Thanks Georg
Here ya go Georg: ruclips.net/video/_BrFUT9t7oA/видео.html
cool mate
Agree on most of it but eliminating all flash fill can result with color problems when mixing lights like sun light, open shade and tungsten. Also important is to identify highlights and shadows that are not important to have a better final shot because over doing the dynamic range can look like HDR presets that look terrible. Also useful is the "Blend if" options on combining the layers, it really helps and using it is a game changer.
Absolute freakin' GAME CHANGER! Goodbye, Lightroom's dumbed down HDR merge function, hello luminosity masking!
Great piece, very helpful. Do you always use exposure blending or are there certain situations where you prefer HDR merging in Lightroom? Thx.
Hi Dave. I'll use a variety of techniques for exposure blending, window pulls, flambient, hdr, hdr hybrid etc. I've tried to cover them on this channel and will do more videos in the future. 🙂
Interesting .
All beautiful and greatso where do we find lumenzia ??
Complete workflow
beautiful image, definitely looking for an open flat like that, top floor.
Yeah, it's nice eh.
This is sheer brilliance. I found something with a similar message, and it was beyond words. "The Art of Meaningful Relationships in the 21st Century" by Leo Flint
Informative as ever. Complete workflow would be appreciated.
Thanks Lee. I'll see what I can do 😀
Lee, what steps do you think he left out ?
Excellent tutorial!
Just wanted to know if you considered doing window pulls for this editing? Sometimes I get confused on when doing them and when not to do them. Thanks in advance!
Window pulls weren't really an option here. As soon as the space starts getting larger I prefer this approach.
Muito bom!
Remarkable- thx
Very welcome :)
amazing video, thank you Anthony...I'm something doing real estate photography (not high-end architectural) using my Olympus omd-em1 mark III and 7-14mm f2.8 PRO lens which is a cropped sensor by 2. Im considering doing more design and architectural photography and I'm not sure if I can achive the same/similar professional results with this kind of sensor and dynamic range compared to Nikon 45mpx camera. I would love to see a video where you will borrow and use this Olympus setup and do the same picture and brackets using Olympus and nikon and do your workflow if the results will be similar or harder to achieve with a smaller sensor. Thank you, love watching your content.
Thanks Hana. Tbh a bigger sensor will always be preferble. I'd love to be shooting medium format for example. However, this technique is designed to still work even when cameras don't have a great dynamic range. I used to use it even when shooting on my very old 12mp Nikon D200 - and still got excellent results!
Complete Workflow as well please and thank you!
You got it! ruclips.net/video/_BrFUT9t7oA/видео.html
I follow Greg's work since forever; and his use of Lumenzia in landscape photography. But lets be honest, for those who don't want to invest in such a pannel, there are dozens of good free to use luminosity mask actions out there. And to achieve those transitions, you simply apply a levels adjustement to the masks and also use "blend if" when apropriate. Nice vid! Thanks :)
Lumenzia has a Lite (free) Version as far as I know ;-)
with all the features mentioned in this clip? Either way, the vid refers to a payed version and all I'm saying is that there are other ways to achieve the same result. Thanks for your response ;)@@mibreit-photo
Does this work that much better than the built-in Lr or Ps auto HDR merger? Or is it similar results, but you get the extra control over the masks with Lumenzia?
outstandingg .
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I'd like to ask you how you deal with mixed light sources when it comes to white balance? Because there is a main reason I'm using a "flambient" technique in order to "clean" the light. But I have to admit that setting the strobes and lightstands (sometimes) is time consuming, so I looking toward using some sort of HDR or exposure blending in the future.
Hi Pawel. In those instances of extreme mixed lighting situations I may do some strobe files for the "clean light". Other times I'll play with internal lighting and capture frames with the different lights on and then use those files in luminosity mode over my preferred colour frames. It's actually quite a deep topic with the solution depending on the situation. Perhaps a video for the future... 😀
@@archiphoto Yes please! Would love to see a tut on dealing with different color light sources. Thanks! Great stuff!!
Hi Anthony, is the histogram on that base eposure you use usually slightly shifted to the right?
double masking, please!
complete workflow.
Hi Nick hope your well mate, I really appreciate this video I'm a portrait photographer new to architectural photography thanks again for sharing. Do host workshops in London?
Thanks and no worries. No London based workshops I'm afraid. I live in New Zealand although I still haven't lost my English accent! All the best for your venture into architectural photography! 😀
Anthony hello!i bought the sigma 20mm art...i disappointed... which lenses you suggest for nikon fx.. keep up
Thank you, Roose Bolton.
Power tastes best when sweetened by courtesy. The North will know of your appreciation.
The hardest part with following along to these videos is the houses are always beautiful! Show me the 1,000-1,500 Sq/Ft house with yellow lights throughout and not neutral walls.
Hi mate. Feel free to send me some example files through to anthonyeditsyourphotos@gmail.com and I can take a look at creating a video on tackling problematic spaces. I don't have a library of these images as frustratingly I tend to get hired for the bigger homes - which weirdly all seem to come with white walls!
Thank you for this informative video. These techniques, however, are very similar to the techniques that printers and color separation houses would use to create duotones, tritones, and quadtones of b&w prints. Dot etchers also played a part in opening up shadows and color balancing color separations for printed color reproductions. The materials were different back then--film, kodalith, ink, paper, etc., and present day computerized techniques may be more precise and have greater usefulness, but the underlying concepts seemed to have changed little with the advent of computerization.
That was super helpful but Im struggling to get a final image that doesn't look washed out. I can't seem to fine-tune the transparency of the highlights and shadows. any advice to really take advantage. seems like Im missing something in Lumenzia. huge thanks
I've got a few other videos where I've tackled this problem for others that said they were struggling with the contrast but t.b.h. the most in-depth info has been put together by the guy who created Lumenzia. He's got an exposure blending master course available here: bit.ly/3dpGeub
Looks good and Lumenzia looks great but I still think looks flat and unrealistic. If it had the outside crunched a bit to increase contrast I think it'd be much nicer. I guess it's always subjective and everyone has their style. I like to desaturate the cyans and blues a bit on interiors so there's no/less of a cast. I'm a flambient type of guy and yes, when you have large rooms or dark ceilings where you can't bounce flash it is a punish and takes a lot more work. Saying that, thanks for the info and introduction to Lumenzia, I might give it a whirl! I'd love to see any other PS exposure blending methods you've used in the past. Thanks for the content!
Thanks Anthony, one of the great things with this method is you're able to dial in the highlights and shadows more accurately and to your taste. So if you want to give the highlights a more subtle introduction, because they're isolated it's easy to go that way. Yes desaturating the blues / cyans is often a great approach for the reflected light. Thanks for the comment :)
When we their open as smart object but how we can their auto-align in photoshop?
Complete workflow please! Great tutorial, thanks!
Hi mate. I've now done an architectural editing tutorial start to finish. You can check it out here: ruclips.net/video/_BrFUT9t7oA/видео.html
Let me know what else you'd like to learn! 😀
@@archiphoto you are the man!! Thanks so much! I'll check it out.
We achieve render quality images. Ambient is key to any great photo. Adding flash paints the story behind the image. Storytelling is it.
I like your editing workflow. In this case you didn't use the "double masking" tecnique, is there any reason why?
Good point. I love the double mask approach, but in this one I just wanted to keep it more simple so I could really focus on the basics of the actual blend.
Thanks for the very informative video. Anyway, is it possible to finish the photo after merging in Lightroom instead of using color efex?
Hi, for the type of finishing I'm referring to Lightroom isn't really an option. It's so good at those initial steps of prepping the file but the finishing really needs to be done in more specialised programs such as ColorEfex Pro.
Try the Fuji GFX! The latitude with exposure and shadow detail from the GFX cameras is unreal!
Yeah I hear it's great.
Thanks a lot Anthony. I truly enjoy your videos.
Wanted to ask about bracketing - why do you use 1 stop jump and not 2 stops jump in the settings ? I saw in many of your tutorials that eventually you combine photos with 2 stops difference.
Sometimes +1 or -1 is a better base to start with than 0ev. I always like to cover my bases and have the best data available for my edit. So a 0 -2 +2 set may not be the best option. I'd sooner have access to a set based on 1 stop increments even if I don't end up using all of them. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks.
And if I may, a followup on this - for how long do you keep your raw files ? When do you delete them to clear space ?
I keep them all as a safety net. Completely overkill tbh though.
Awesome video. I just bought Lumenzia a few days ago, haven't played with it yet. How would you finish the photo in Luminar Neo?
Hi Michael. I've now done an architectural editing tutorial start to finish in the latest video which includes my finishing steps for a piece. It's Lightroom to Photoshop with ColorEfex. But much of what I did could equally be achieved with Luminar. But I'll see if I can do a video with that approach too but for now there's this one: ruclips.net/video/_BrFUT9t7oA/видео.html
Great videos with tons of knowledge., Thanks., I was wondering what your thoughts were when blending 3 images with Layer Blend Modes., Darken for the highlights and Lighten for the Shadows. Then the "Blend If" sliders to clean up the midtones? Also maybe a "Apply Image" luminosity Mask that I made into actions? Is there something fundamentally flawed with this kind of work flow?., Thanks
Hi Michael, Good questions! I've played around with those approaches mentioned in the past and while there's nothing "wrong" with them I do prefer the ease and precision afforded by Lumenzia. I prefer to be able to visualise the precise mask rather than relying on the unseen maths that drives lighten/darken and blend if. Just personal preference. Also Apply Image, which I've done tutorials on before is a good option but a little more time consuming to get the mask dialled in. Because I do this as a business and time is money I prefer the quicker approach. Even through there's not much in it, the small differences magnify over multiple shoots and multiple images.
Thanks for your thoughtful reply. I have seen your videos with lumenzia and will eventually try that. For now I am trying to learn all the different ways to always have options and simply learn photoshop. Keep up the great work. It is much appreciated.
Thanks mate 😀
Thanks for this. Purchased Lumenzia through your link! Been using PS for years and have never seen the menu bar highlights like you have - how do you set that up?
It's actually an option that you can select when you install the Lumenzia panel. Cheers for using my link. 👍
I find you can get a better result by first converting to linear light. This avoids tonal errors when merging. you can make your own luma mattes as well and save as a script.
I'll look more into linear as an option. Thanks.
Anthony, absolutely great video ! I'm just asking, why do You still use this technique, when theres Neo with hdr function ? Thats srsly works like magic most of the time. Or You just simply enjoying this super flexibility what lum.masks provide ?
Hi. Thanks and great question. Yes, Luminar's HDR merge function is excellent. I've been a long time fan of Aurora and that's the engine that's used in Luminar's HDR tool. However, not everyone has Luminar or the extensions. This method is LR and Photoshop friendly and, as good as the HDR merge is, this does give more control - and sometimes you need that.
If I could ask a very basic and potentially silly question. How do you get Lightroom to show the blacks in that blue color after a certain point? Very new to all of this and appreciate the learning opportunity you’re providing. 3:20
Hey mate. 2 ays. Click the little triangles top left (blacks) top right (whites) above the histogram. Or much easier, press J to toggle the clipping warnings on or off.
Thanks Anthony! When trying this technique with Lumenzia, I have to use the feather feature to get anything like a proper blend between exposures. Somewhere around 300 pixels. I notice that you never need to do this. Curious as to what I am doing wrong. Also, I have never seen you blend more than 3 exposures. Do you sometimes need more in a very high-contrast shot? A complete workflow would be great when you have the time. Thanks again!
Hi Curt. I'm really not sure why you'd need to feather anything. The benefit of Lumenzia is that the masks are pixel perfect right off the bat. I'm going to guess that it's the processing of the files/layers themselves that's not allowing for a decent blend. When you do the blend without the feather does it look rather flat? If so then that's likely to be the issue.
BTW Curt, I've done a full walkthrough edit you might find helpful here: ruclips.net/video/_BrFUT9t7oA/видео.html
Thanks for the response Anthony! The issue, as you discuss in this video, is I am not starting with images that are well-matched for the blend. The problem I run into is that when I try to raise the shadows and blacks in my highlights image or lower the highlights and whites in my shadows image so that they are more similar to the base image they start to fall apart. Maybe I don't have the dynamic range that is necessary? I'm shooting on a Z5 24MP camera. I know you are shooting on a D850 48MP. Is this part of the problem?
@@curtstevens6178 Curt you might try renting the D850 for one shoot and do a comparison between cameras to see if there is much difference.
Hi Anthony, just want to get your input if the same results can be achieved with a medium format camera such as the GFX 100s, because these camera has a high dynamic range, we can adjust the exposure of different part of the image accordingly? Do you think it will work?
Hi mate. I'm not actually sure. I'm not familiar with the HDR function in the GFX100 so I can't really say. Sorry.
Anthony... Wondering about Color fx pro 5. I see you use it to finalize images and I am wondering if you could include a tutorial about that program. Also, I see you have created numerous "presets" that you have created. I would be interested in knowing about your settings there as well. Thank you in advance, I appreciate what you do.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, I really love colorefex pro for the image finishing side of things. My presets are just subtle variations but tend to focus around 4 or 5 tools that work great for architecture once the initial heavy lifting of image correction is done. I'll try and cover it in an upcoming vid. Great suggestion!
@@AnthonyTurnham Thanks Anthony, that would be great. I have the collection as well as Greg's plugin as mentioned and both Luminar 4 and Neo. Just trying to navigate the best settings for everything to assist in editing.
@@bajonesinsf Yeah, while I love ColorEfex for finishing as part of my photoshop workflow, NEO has the edge of being able to batch process that finishing look whereas without running an action in Photoshop, colorefex is applied on each individual edit.
thanks a lot for this video. Is it necessary to adjust the exposure of every raw before merging them ? All the data is supposed to be store in the DNG at the end, so why exposing them correctly before merging ?
Hi Paul. You can do all the adjustments after merging rather than on the front end, because those adjustments wont stick to the merged file. However, in this example I only chose to merge to HDR after I'd already made those corrections, so I just re-applied those settings after the hdr merge.
You can also merge to 32bit and do all this dynamically within photoshop.
Since you're shooting with natural day light, why not set the white balance for day light? Then there's no adjusting needed and all frames in the stack have the same WB.
Also, have you found any cameras with HDR shooting modes that produce good results you can use out of camera?
Why not import 16bit tiffs, do the shadow/highlight as a live filter, and then blend using blending options instead of mask? Similar results and live preview.
so for each file that you use are they those photos separately taken with different exposure settings using camera or those files are created from the single photo but with a multi-exposure High Dynamic Range setting in the camera?
Different exposures that are then brought together. That's what will give you the tre dynamic range and ability to bring back detail in the highlights and nice clean shadows.
Anthony: I love your video tutorials very much. I am an ex-art director/graphic designer who has been transitioning over to photography, interior photography specifically. I have been using and trying to perfect the flambient method, as I find with the flash, true colors are more prevalent. I have Lumenzia and Greg's course, though I have yet to dig in. I also own the Nix Collection with Color fx pro 5 and other apps from them. I would like to know how, using your method of exposure blending, you address the issues of color casts and softer shadows from ambient light compared to the flambient method. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you from San Francisco.
And greetings from NZ! Cheers for the message. Sounds like you're well set up with your software tools and probably got a great visual literacy to call on from your previous work. Yes good questions regarding flambient and in particular dealing with colour. Probably too indepth to answer in the comments but I have covered those very things in other videos on this channel. I'd recommend diggin in to those (particularly the last couple of posts) and I'll try to cover it more specifically in a future video. Just as a note on flambient though, I do use flambient as part of my process when it's the right tool for the job.
@@AnthonyTurnham Will do... Thanks so much for your reply. I will look for those. Onward and hopefully upward. Thanks again.
That all well and good but how much time are you spending on each image and how much do you get paid per licensed image?
Hi Justin, I've covered exact amounts in other vids so won't go over it again, but enough to justify spending a little longer on a higher quality deliverable for my client.
If you need a quicker approach try the preset I showed in the most recent upload: ruclips.net/video/l6_NqXTsjD0/видео.html
complete workflow please
I addjust geometry after merge images. But rest is the same - very similar workflow.
Nice one.
A similar technique is well known even from pre-digital era, called DRI. Saves time on location but not necessarily in post ;-) The annoying thing is the blue glare on the window reflections... looks a bit "cheap" :/ How to avoid it?
A simple floor recolouring would do the trick if the cast was problematic. I'm curious about the DRI you mentioned? The only info I can find is about thermal imaging. Do you have more on that or a link you can share? I'd like to read up on it. Cheers.
so I just watched 20 mins just to get the information, thatr what I need to know is to buy a software :) would be nice to mention such things in first place. However, great video
What about without Lumenzia?
Complete workflow please.
Double masking 15:50
Why do you tilt down the camera for the shot? thanks a lot
Less ceiling and not cut off the bottom of the table. A mid height shot with back of camera parallel didn't give the composition I was after.
I like how people show you what to do and go about the process and don't explain the version of Lightroom they are using. My Lightroom 6 does not have Adobe Color.
Sorry mate. I haven't used LR6 for a long time. I just use whatever the latest version is at time of recording.
As I recall though the color profiles have been accessible in Lightroom since long before v6. Besides you don't really want to be using the generic Adobe profile. A camera matching profile is a much better option. If you install Adobe ACR (free form adobe) it is likely it'll sort out any missing profiles in Lightroom. Hope that helps.
Is this flambing technique a leftover from the early 2000s when there wasn't any powerful software for HDR and the cameras had bad dynamic range?
Hi. The idea behind flambient it is to kill colour casts and better control the colour accuracy in the scene while maintaining the true luminence characteristics of the environment. Trouble is often it's processed poorly and still ends up looking "flashy". This is my preferred method but I do still use elements of the flambient technique at times.