Thanks for the video. You are absolutely correct. I'm a pro shooting for 37 years. When I was doing film photography even my lab tech told me "how do you get all your images within 1/2 stop on your exposures". That was with Kodak 160, 400 and 1000 Portra film. 'Cause I used a meter for some and flash equipment I knew would give me that. My photographs I delivered to my clients all looked the same. Exposure and color and density. Consistency throughout. My studio images too. When I went digital in 2005 I thought it would be different. Not so. Exposure was even more important. Your lesson today is dead on. Thanks for the very pertinent lesson.
I was culling a family session while watching your exposure video. I feel guilty, I was outside in the shade but my lighting was cloud, then no cloud. I just dug out my gray card and tested my cameras like you said. I shamelessly spend too much time in post fixing my exposure. Honestly taking a few more seconds to get it right would save me a ton of time in the long run! Thanks Marcus again for dumbing exposure down and making me realize it's not complicated. :)
Old geezer here who remembers the old Kodak 18% gray cards that were always consistent. FOr the last 3 years I have only used the in camera light meter on overcast days. For sunny days I went back to the old sunny 16 rule and have not looked back. It works. I have refined it to take into account the seasons. After the fall equinox, during the winter, and before the spring equinox it becomes the sunny 11 rule.as during that time the sun is further south on the horizon and therefore the light travels through more of the atmosphere. If you don't have a gray card there is always green grass which is close to 18% gray in the summer. When the grass is dormant in winter close down a stop and you are good. I always have my camera se to the sunny 16 / 11 rule, take a test shot anyway, and pat myself on the back for getting a good exposure.
Technically it's 18% reflectivity on a logarithmic curve, but our eyes and histograms see it as half way (50% from left to right visually), not at 18% or 1/5 from the left. So when I say "50%" I simply mean perceptually on a histogram. I try to explain things that normal people can understand but nerds always get worked up when I do.
NERDS!!! GEEZERS!! UNITE!! I went looking for my Minolta spotmeter F last year.. closet archeology at it's finest. I found it with a couple of old scratched up Kodak 18% cards.. Wow--Waves of memories of old girlfriends holding the cards --squinting in the sun at Craters of the Moon , Idaho and all over the west. I have decided to go Panasonic Lumix for the most part because M4/3 to full frame they meter and color balance very close.. saves sooo much work.
I knew a wedding photographer who's technique was using 'P' mode. He didn't understand technical stuff but he had a good eye and amazingly, got results and earned a living.
I'm so used to my 35 mm film cameras, never thought about it with my digitals. I always thought my digitals were automatic and good enough. Now I can take the time and verify before. Thanks Markus.
Great video as always Markus. Thank you for your passion on sharing your knowledge and obsession with us . I love nerd stuff hehe. I’ll do this for now on and in testing my different lenses too.
Markus - Greetings from the UK :). Just wanted to say that you are an absolute star! Your videos have taught me SO much - I am a slow learner but your stuff is always soclear and well-explained. Thank you so much.
what I did on our lumix GH5 is that I set up a zebra at 75% and I expose that for the skin of my subject, given the subject is white. I might put a zebra at 50% for a black person. I also use the HLG color profil to get HDR but keep SDR compatibility. That way, I dont have to convert anything in post, I have my HDR video compatible with every screen.
Palms. I have been using the palm trick for years. Whether it's my own or my subject's. No matter the race, the shade of palms (and feet bottoms for that matter) are usually perfect for IRE 70/75 (zebra stripes). Good times!
Wow, I had no idea that so many quality cameras could have such different interpretations as to what 50% grey is. Also that lengthy comparison study you did where you meticulously compiled all the data down on paper with all the different factors in different rows and stuff is definitely something I have done a lot of and will likely do a lot more of. I think it's probably a big part of what has made me successful in business, and for you, likely created lots of easy to recall days nets for photography. I can't help but record numbers and data and look for patterns and such. Anyway, thanks so much for sharing all the details, tips, and advice on a topic that we all need to focus on.
I have been a photographer for over 30years, even in films I shoot a Macbeth color checker & 18% grey checker. It's a must if you want perfect exposure and color accuracy.
Hey Markus, this helps so much! My question might be a video for tips/gadgets and wrist positioning for holding any camera more steady for video, with something to grip, provided there's a screw mount port on the device. I've debated gimbals although those are mostly for phones, and a cage grip but those might be bigger than I want to hold if I'm not mounting a light. You always cut through the crap and get to the point. Thanks for all the videos.
I'm glad I started practicing correct exposure and WB in camera when I started. It helped a ton that I shot film before digital cameras existed lol. It makes everything so much easier once you get into the routine and it's just second nature. I hate messing with photos my wife takes sometimes.
As always a genius move... never imagined it.. cool... and let me say it.. how can your videos be so awesome with a 1080p while many with 4k are so bad? Incredible..
@@MarkusPix Yes I am following you every year and I learned a lot from you. Still I do not have your abilities or performance. Again.. thank you for teaching us how to be a better RUclipsrs!
@@KankukanAiki Good lighting is a great equalizer between grades of camera. Having enough light hitting the sensor makes a difference. Also, a higher resolution sensor typically means each photosite is smaller than a lower resolution sensor of the same overall size, so it might take a little more light to make something look good.
You are right.. still it is awesome how he makes these videos. I have a good average channel with some good lightning but never at his level.. @@bullettin
There are a few large issues not mentioned. Cameras map the image to rec 709, meaning if they capture say 14 stops of DR it’s remapped onto 10 stops. How that range of light and dark is remapped differs depending on the profile used. One profile might favor highlights, one shadows, etc. So on the same camera, the gray could land at a variety of values. Also, if you are always the subject of the shot, your skin tone is more important to assign a zebra value than the grey card. Also, the same subject, be it skin or a grey card,may have different exposure values depending on the mood of the scene, a dark dinner scene may not have the same value as an outdoor scene, and that’s appropriate.
The solution is to know for your camera in your profile in your scene where the card or skin etc should be on the histogram or other exposure tools… I don’t know that there is an easy solution to this beyond some general principles as expressed in something like the zone system, apart from that one hedges in different directions depending on the creative look and the scene or one uses a monitor to check in real time.
If it is expensive and you want it to get to the destination, that usually means carry it on or ship it. Checking expensive items under the plane is much more likely to see them disappear. You might consider renting larger items on location.
Thank you Markus. I am a bit confused though. You said to dial in the exposure to the point where zebras appear on the white strip of the color card. However, the zebras can be set to appear at level of your liking. What value do you set for your zebras for white? 95? 100? 105?
Like I said in the vieeo, take pictures first to determine the perfect exposure, then (with that exposure) find out what zebra setting makes the white strip flash- is it 80 or 95 or 100 etc ruclips.net/video/Svz_f1ZWy8g/видео.html
This has helped me so much. I'm new to video and setting exposure has been something that I don't have a lot of confidence with. I'll be using this to learn and improve!
I’ve had the opposite regarding screens. I’ve looked at my camera screen and thought it was wrong then put it on my computer and thought it looked great. I was glad that I started on film as it kinda forced to try and get it right in camera because it would cost me time and money and often couldn’t go back and retake. So it gave me that mentality of trying to get it right in camera. I did some post but it was minimum tweaking most of time.
thanks for all your hard work making these videos. it is much appreciated. i agree 100% with most all of your philosophy for photography. right in the camera is where it is at.
Markus would you custom white balance before you set the exposure for the zebras? Would the zebra exposure process work for both RAW and JPEG? Another awesome video Markus.
For me, editing a photo is not a chore but something I love to do because I can learn new things. Not necessarily RAW photos. Even a JPEG photo, I love to edit them for fun and for exploring new things.
I never heard about zebras. I need to research that and get a clear understanding of what they are and how to use that feature. I learned something about setting the right exposure. See I thought all gray cards were created equal. Guess not. Now I have to start testing and listing my cameras with the correct gray card exposure. Thanks, again Markus for the lesson. I'm going to start shooting in JPEG. I need to save space on my computer anyway.
2:55 "It's kinda sucky". Don't get so technical Markus! Great video man! I love it when you get down in the weeds and yes, get rid of that white bullseye right!?
Thanks for the tips in all these videos! I brought my camera to a live show thing last weekend and could only really trust my histogram, but I do want to get some grey cards eventually! Though it was more of a run and gun thing anyway.
I have been frustrated with gray cards and now I know it’s not just me. I have a few different ones and they are all over the map in terms of gray value. Not to mention now thanks to Markus we can see a comparison of just how much each camera interprets middle gray. Another killer video and concept. Make our own gray cards for our cameras. Wow! Just think how much money we could all save if we just listen to Markus.
My photojournalism work has me in rural villages, forests, etc. instead of studio, so I've dialed in blinkies or false colors on my Olympus and Sigma gear along with just learning over time with spot metering what values I want for different skin tones in different lighting situations. Combining both I'm usually pretty quick to get a solid image, and if I have to go in later, I have both file types saved. Depending on the purpose of the image, I may want to do effectively what amounts to dodge/burn work with masks, in which case the raw file is the better start. Even then I don't myself using the jpeg I know I set everything right for to start with as the reference to quickly set the raw back to for contrast and other values.
hi Markus love your videos you make it really simple and wanted to thank u and was wondering if you have a video on what u do when ur going to shoot a model with no light then with a light like what do you do first white balance exposer would love to know step by step if you could if not its ok and once again thanks love your work
The histogram is tied to the picture profile settings not raw output from the sensor so depending on your profile that can dramatically impact what you see on your histogram and what is clipping or crushed. I get you hate raw workflow for whatever reason but there are some big benefits to intentionally under exposing/exposing for protecting highlights in camera then setting exposure in post. It takes very very little time to set exposure in post and if that's in your workflow it's as simple as applying a profile or curve on import
Something I used to do with my camera was use spot meter on the brightest part of the location and the darkest part of the location. I aim for skies to be 1- 2 stops above and shadows to be no more than 2 and 1/2 stops below.
Markus -- you provide us with so much great information on how to best use our cameras -- but, being the often-lazy bum that I am, I did spend 30 minutes this morning looking for the 'Markus' button/setting on my camera....
Same process. You must change with changing lighting conditions. If the sun makes everything brighter, the camera does not magically keep everything the same 😄
@@MarkusPix Thanks for the quick response. I was thinking of shooting a sport out doors and the clouds pass over, or if one side of the field has a different exposure. I need to change exposure quickly. Thank you again.
Its strongly depends of profile we use. Middle grey are in diffrent point for ex rec 709 vs slog3 gamma, so be aware what U use and measure. Not for camera but for camera with certain profile. BTW MarkusPix U are one and only :-) Cheers
So you're always using custom white balance since you shoot either in controlled studio or outdoor settings. Makes sense. But if you had to shoot a subject quickly, without a tripod, without controlled lighting, what do you think of center weighing (or spot metering) on the subject's face?
I carry an incident light meter. Measuring the amount of light falling on the subject has served me well. If I need an 18% gray card I have one from Kodak as it is the industry standard. 18% is considered middle gray and is how most all cameras and light meters are calibrated. I also have a Calibrite Color Checker as a reference for color temperature. I measure the incident light and can shoot without re metering for a while until things change. Then it is a simple meter and adjust. As you shoot raw, you find what all the old masters did to make those timeless emotional examples of what a simple few adjustments can do. Most young photographers "spray and pray" and won't learn to actually see what is in their viewfinder. There is so much information available on your "chimping" screen but it is ignored by most.
Technically it's 18% reflectivity on a logarithmic curve, but our eyes and histograms see it as half way (50% from left to right visually), not at 18% or 1/5 from the left. So when I say "50%" I simply mean perceptually on a histogram. I try to explain things that normal people can understand but nerds always get worked up when I do.
Hi Markus! Greatly appreciate your videos. I didn't understand your point of reaching 50% on different grey cards camera wise. AFAIK there are reference cards, and you should adjust your exposure in camera so that IRE (aka %) would reach 50 (exact wanted value depends on gamma curve actually). I mean the grey card is a reference. When you are talkinkg about different cards with 50% what do you mean? Are you talking about auto-exposure which reaches 50% on different cards (using different cameras)?
I love your philosophy, do it right from the beginning, great! And then we come to my problem with exposure, I am shooting sports, I cannot check this for each shot. Do you still mean that I could use these methods? Especially for outdoor photography in the evening... Nightmare to get the right exposure. Any ideas to make it easier?
Can you go over those steps with the canon C 100 mark ii specifically? Like how to adjust your histogram etc. I have two of those cameras now and I’m still learning them. How do you adjust your histogram to get 50%? Thank you.
Markus, I know you don’t need to do this channel, that’s why I appreciate you.
Yes. Good comment mate. I think he enjoys it. Not sure if he sees it but I hassle those two to make another movie.
Thanks for the video. You are absolutely correct. I'm a pro shooting for 37 years. When I was doing film photography even my lab tech told me "how do you get all your images within 1/2 stop on your exposures". That was with Kodak 160, 400 and 1000 Portra film. 'Cause I used a meter for some and flash equipment I knew would give me that. My photographs I delivered to my clients all looked the same. Exposure and color and density. Consistency throughout. My studio images too. When I went digital in 2005 I thought it would be different. Not so. Exposure was even more important. Your lesson today is dead on. Thanks for the very pertinent lesson.
This is gold. You’re a national treasure my dude. Three part when you say “spend a few minutes with this” is such an under statement.
I was culling a family session while watching your exposure video. I feel guilty, I was outside in the shade but my lighting was cloud, then no cloud. I just dug out my gray card and tested my cameras like you said. I shamelessly spend too much time in post fixing my exposure. Honestly taking a few more seconds to get it right would save me a ton of time in the long run! Thanks Marcus again for dumbing exposure down and making me realize it's not complicated. :)
Old geezer here who remembers the old Kodak 18% gray cards that were always consistent. FOr the last 3 years I have only used the in camera light meter on overcast days. For sunny days I went back to the old sunny 16 rule and have not looked back. It works. I have refined it to take into account the seasons. After the fall equinox, during the winter, and before the spring equinox it becomes the sunny 11 rule.as during that time the sun is further south on the horizon and therefore the light travels through more of the atmosphere. If you don't have a gray card there is always green grass which is close to 18% gray in the summer. When the grass is dormant in winter close down a stop and you are good. I always have my camera se to the sunny 16 / 11 rule, take a test shot anyway, and pat myself on the back for getting a good exposure.
Technically it's 18% reflectivity on a logarithmic curve, but our eyes and histograms see it as half way (50% from left to right visually), not at 18% or 1/5 from the left. So when I say "50%" I simply mean perceptually on a histogram. I try to explain things that normal people can understand but nerds always get worked up when I do.
Cheers so much to you both 😊❤
NERDS!!! GEEZERS!! UNITE!! I went looking for my Minolta spotmeter F last year.. closet archeology at it's finest. I found it with a couple of old scratched up Kodak 18% cards.. Wow--Waves of memories of old girlfriends holding the cards --squinting in the sun at Craters of the Moon , Idaho and all over the west. I have decided to go Panasonic Lumix for the most part because M4/3 to full frame they meter and color balance very close.. saves sooo much work.
I knew a wedding photographer who's technique was using 'P' mode. He didn't understand technical stuff but he had a good eye and amazingly, got results and earned a living.
I still use old hand held light meters that give you the EV numbers so you can get every useful combination of aperture and shutter.
Markus is leaving the world his wisdom and he will be immortalized 🔥
This is the best channel on photo/video technique.
I'm so used to my 35 mm film cameras, never thought about it with my digitals. I always thought my digitals were automatic and good enough. Now I can take the time and verify before. Thanks Markus.
Thanks Markus for your "Lateral Thinking" tutorial.
You've got to appreciate the craftmanship here.
Great video as always Markus. Thank you for your passion on sharing your knowledge and obsession with us . I love nerd stuff hehe. I’ll do this for now on and in testing my different lenses too.
I appreciate you so much at this moment. This is GOLD. I am happy to have discovered your channel. Thank YOU.
Thanks Markus for the lesson! Great tip!
This is amazing - thank you so much for this ☀️🎥⛩
Thank you for sharing all your knowledge. I am new at this and did not understand , I will watch it again.
Huge 'Thank you!' for this.
Markus - Greetings from the UK :). Just wanted to say that you are an absolute star! Your videos have taught me SO much - I am a slow learner but your stuff is always soclear and well-explained. Thank you so much.
what I did on our lumix GH5 is that I set up a zebra at 75% and I expose that for the skin of my subject, given the subject is white. I might put a zebra at 50% for a black person.
I also use the HLG color profil to get HDR but keep SDR compatibility. That way, I dont have to convert anything in post, I have my HDR video compatible with every screen.
Thank you for this information. I have similar settings for my GH5 as well. Very capable camera.
Palms. I have been using the palm trick for years. Whether it's my own or my subject's.
No matter the race, the shade of palms (and feet bottoms for that matter) are usually perfect for IRE 70/75 (zebra stripes).
Good times!
@@RealHomeRecording I will use that if I have a more diverse cast.
Watching again. Has more WOW! value than before.
Keep em coming
Thank you Markus. These types of tips save so much time!!
Wow, I had no idea that so many quality cameras could have such different interpretations as to what 50% grey is.
Also that lengthy comparison study you did where you meticulously compiled all the data down on paper with all the different factors in different rows and stuff is definitely something I have done a lot of and will likely do a lot more of. I think it's probably a big part of what has made me successful in business, and for you, likely created lots of easy to recall days nets for photography. I can't help but record numbers and data and look for patterns and such.
Anyway, thanks so much for sharing all the details, tips, and advice on a topic that we all need to focus on.
Thank you Markus, this is fantastic advice!
👏👏👏👏👏
Always great stuff. Since watching your stuff I have started doing a lot more testing with my equipment. It's interesting what you can learn
HI Markus, great video! This is wonderful advice for constant light! How would you approach exposure for shooting with strobes?
I have been a photographer for over 30years, even in films I shoot a Macbeth color checker & 18% grey checker. It's a must if you want perfect exposure and color accuracy.
Hey Markus, this helps so much! My question might be a video for tips/gadgets and wrist positioning for holding any camera more steady for video, with something to grip, provided there's a screw mount port on the device. I've debated gimbals although those are mostly for phones, and a cage grip but those might be bigger than I want to hold if I'm not mounting a light. You always cut through the crap and get to the point. Thanks for all the videos.
I'm glad I started practicing correct exposure and WB in camera when I started. It helped a ton that I shot film before digital cameras existed lol. It makes everything so much easier once you get into the routine and it's just second nature. I hate messing with photos my wife takes sometimes.
As always a genius move... never imagined it.. cool... and let me say it.. how can your videos be so awesome with a 1080p while many with 4k are so bad? Incredible..
The RX100vii is super good at 1080 which is why its my fav camera. Also make sure you have good lighting
@@MarkusPix Yes I am following you every year and I learned a lot from you. Still I do not have your abilities or performance. Again.. thank you for teaching us how to be a better RUclipsrs!
@@KankukanAiki Good lighting is a great equalizer between grades of camera. Having enough light hitting the sensor makes a difference. Also, a higher resolution sensor typically means each photosite is smaller than a lower resolution sensor of the same overall size, so it might take a little more light to make something look good.
You are right.. still it is awesome how he makes these videos. I have a good average channel with some good lightning but never at his level..
@@bullettin
Thank you Markus for the exposure tips.
There are a few large issues not mentioned. Cameras map the image to rec 709, meaning if they capture say 14 stops of DR it’s remapped onto 10 stops. How that range of light and dark is remapped differs depending on the profile used. One profile might favor highlights, one shadows, etc. So on the same camera, the gray could land at a variety of values. Also, if you are always the subject of the shot, your skin tone is more important to assign a zebra value than the grey card. Also, the same subject, be it skin or a grey card,may have different exposure values depending on the mood of the scene, a dark dinner scene may not have the same value as an outdoor scene, and that’s appropriate.
The solution is to know for your camera in your profile in your scene where the card or skin etc should be on the histogram or other exposure tools… I don’t know that there is an easy solution to this beyond some general principles as expressed in something like the zone system, apart from that one hedges in different directions depending on the creative look and the scene or one uses a monitor to check in real time.
Thanks Markus. Very informative and I struggle between my cameras to nail white balance.
The other photo sites try to sell me things. What I like about your site is you help me to take better pictures and bypass a lot of post. Thank you.
Thanks Markus...stellar! Can you do a video on packing your expensive gear for international airline travel that can't be carried on?
If it is expensive and you want it to get to the destination, that usually means carry it on or ship it. Checking expensive items under the plane is much more likely to see them disappear. You might consider renting larger items on location.
Thank you Markus. I am a bit confused though. You said to dial in the exposure to the point where zebras appear on the white strip of the color card. However, the zebras can be set to appear at level of your liking. What value do you set for your zebras for white? 95? 100? 105?
Like I said in the vieeo, take pictures first to determine the perfect exposure, then (with that exposure) find out what zebra setting makes the white strip flash- is it 80 or 95 or 100 etc ruclips.net/video/Svz_f1ZWy8g/видео.html
@@MarkusPix Ah, got it! Thank you!
@@MarkusPixWhat zebras do you use for your a7sIII and does this also work for video when filming in log?
This was a super useful piece of content
This has helped me so much. I'm new to video and setting exposure has been something that I don't have a lot of confidence with. I'll be using this to learn and improve!
I’ve had the opposite regarding screens.
I’ve looked at my camera screen and thought it was wrong then put it on my computer and thought it looked great.
I was glad that I started on film as it kinda forced to try and get it right in camera because it would cost me time and money and often couldn’t go back and retake.
So it gave me that mentality of trying to get it right in camera.
I did some post but it was minimum tweaking most of time.
Awesome! Thank you. I would love to see a video of your procedures prior to a shoot when you arrive at a location.
Awesome info, thank you so much!
thanks for all your hard work making these videos. it is much appreciated. i agree 100% with most all of your philosophy for photography. right in the camera is where it is at.
Awesome info Markus thanks for helping us out.
I would love a full episode on lenses alone. Thanks for being a great human Markus.
Markus you are such a chad, thank you for all you do man, I will show it to my kids one day
Thanks Markus, this is a good technical tips video. I am saving it to my video production list. PS I bought your film on DVD. Haven't watched yet.
Markus would you custom white balance before you set the exposure for the zebras? Would the zebra exposure process work for both RAW and JPEG? Another awesome video Markus.
For me, editing a photo is not a chore but something I love to do because I can learn new things. Not necessarily RAW photos. Even a JPEG photo, I love to edit them for fun and for exploring new things.
This is awesome! Thank you buddy! My Canon R10 shows up on Wednesday.
Great presentations. You make it simple for an art that others make it complecated. Thanks from New Zealand.
Thank you so much for all your creative inspiration and tutorials. We really appreciate it Markus.
You are great. Always to the point, simple and clear info that everyone can actually use. Thank you!
Cheers so much for not having your viewers look back and wish that we knew this from the beginning 😊❤
Big Big help! Thanks for sharing your knowledge Markus.
Thank you sir for these nifty tips.
Great job Markus. 🙂
Great resource that I hope many will watch and use.
Markus getting Scientific Amazing !!!
Thanks Markus. I have always wondered about this but did not have many cameras.
I never heard about zebras. I need to research that and get a clear understanding of what they are and how to use that feature. I learned something about setting the right exposure. See I thought all gray cards were created equal. Guess not. Now I have to start testing and listing my cameras with the correct gray card exposure.
Thanks, again Markus for the lesson.
I'm going to start shooting in JPEG.
I need to save space on my computer anyway.
2:55 "It's kinda sucky". Don't get so technical Markus! Great video man! I love it when you get down in the weeds and yes, get rid of that white bullseye right!?
Thanks for the tips in all these videos! I brought my camera to a live show thing last weekend and could only really trust my histogram, but I do want to get some grey cards eventually! Though it was more of a run and gun thing anyway.
Great advice and how to!!
Best advice EVER!
I have been frustrated with gray cards and now I know it’s not just me. I have a few different ones and they are all over the map in terms of gray value. Not to mention now thanks to Markus we can see a comparison of just how much each camera interprets middle gray.
Another killer video and concept. Make our own gray cards for our cameras. Wow!
Just think how much money we could all save if we just listen to Markus.
the new intro is pretty neat!
Super easy and reliable tip, thanks!
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Top man for practical info, thank you so much Markus 👌🌟
My photojournalism work has me in rural villages, forests, etc. instead of studio, so I've dialed in blinkies or false colors on my Olympus and Sigma gear along with just learning over time with spot metering what values I want for different skin tones in different lighting situations. Combining both I'm usually pretty quick to get a solid image, and if I have to go in later, I have both file types saved. Depending on the purpose of the image, I may want to do effectively what amounts to dodge/burn work with masks, in which case the raw file is the better start. Even then I don't myself using the jpeg I know I set everything right for to start with as the reference to quickly set the raw back to for contrast and other values.
I always enjoy your videos. Very informative.
hi Markus love your videos you make it really simple and wanted to thank u and was wondering if you have a video on what u do when ur going to shoot a model with no light then with a light like what do you do first white balance exposer would love to know step by step if you could if not its ok and once again thanks love your work
ps i have a sony a73
lol you mean gear isn’t the only camera content that’s available??? I love this stuff
This is great advice. I think most of us eyeball it and end up fixing it later. Thanks for this.
thats is kinda brilliant the zebra setting with the white balance card
Markux you have exposed us to some fascinating knowledge.
Thank you Marcus! 😊
The histogram is tied to the picture profile settings not raw output from the sensor so depending on your profile that can dramatically impact what you see on your histogram and what is clipping or crushed. I get you hate raw workflow for whatever reason but there are some big benefits to intentionally under exposing/exposing for protecting highlights in camera then setting exposure in post. It takes very very little time to set exposure in post and if that's in your workflow it's as simple as applying a profile or curve on import
Yep! That is why I always use Neutral Profile ( Canon )
Something I used to do with my camera was use spot meter on the brightest part of the location and the darkest part of the location. I aim for skies to be 1- 2 stops above and shadows to be no more than 2 and 1/2 stops below.
Markus - have you tested the differences across lenses for exposure?
Yeah that's interesting things to know.
Markus -- you provide us with so much great information on how to best use our cameras -- but, being the often-lazy bum that I am, I did spend 30 minutes this morning looking for the 'Markus' button/setting on my camera....
I like all the nerdy stuff. I nerd out on it. :)
I never thought to check. Thank you so much👊🏿🔥🔥🔥
Can you make a video on how to do this out doors with changing lighting conditions? Thank you so much for everything you share.
Same process. You must change with changing lighting conditions. If the sun makes everything brighter, the camera does not magically keep everything the same 😄
@@MarkusPix Thanks for the quick response. I was thinking of shooting a sport out doors and the clouds pass over, or if one side of the field has a different exposure. I need to change exposure quickly. Thank you again.
Awesome video! Have you made or will you make a video discussing how to nail color in camera?
Ahem. That was last weeks video.
@@MarkusPix right. I knew that. I was testing you to see if you did. And you totally passed the test. LOL thank you!
Its strongly depends of profile we use. Middle grey are in diffrent point for ex rec 709 vs slog3 gamma, so be aware what U use and measure. Not for camera but for camera with certain profile. BTW MarkusPix U are one and only :-) Cheers
Thank you for all these methods
Hi Markus. It would be good if you showed the entire setup process, how you do it all.
So you're always using custom white balance since you shoot either in controlled studio or outdoor settings. Makes sense.
But if you had to shoot a subject quickly, without a tripod, without controlled lighting, what do you think of center weighing (or spot metering) on the subject's face?
Raw - a full frame sensor has at least 4/5 stops shadow recovery and 2/3 highlight recovery
I carry an incident light meter. Measuring the amount of light falling on the subject has served me well. If I need an 18% gray card I have one from Kodak as it is the industry standard. 18% is considered middle gray and is how most all cameras and light meters are calibrated. I also have a Calibrite Color Checker as a reference for color temperature. I measure the incident light and can shoot without re metering for a while until things change. Then it is a simple meter and adjust.
As you shoot raw, you find what all the old masters did to make those timeless emotional examples of what a simple few adjustments can do. Most young photographers "spray and pray" and won't learn to actually see what is in their viewfinder. There is so much information available on your "chimping" screen but it is ignored by most.
Literally just saw that they are not all calibrated to 18% lol.
Technically it's 18% reflectivity on a logarithmic curve, but our eyes and histograms see it as half way (50% from left to right visually), not at 18% or 1/5 from the left. So when I say "50%" I simply mean perceptually on a histogram. I try to explain things that normal people can understand but nerds always get worked up when I do.
Hi Markus! Greatly appreciate your videos.
I didn't understand your point of reaching 50% on different grey cards camera wise. AFAIK there are reference cards, and you should adjust your exposure in camera so that IRE (aka %) would reach 50 (exact wanted value depends on gamma curve actually). I mean the grey card is a reference.
When you are talkinkg about different cards with 50% what do you mean? Are you talking about auto-exposure which reaches 50% on different cards (using different cameras)?
Love the info. Not sure if this will work for flash photography though.
It won’t
@@BrookviewLabs I know! 😜
Thank you Markus wb and now exposure, as a newbie it really helps. Thanx for sharing.
Excellent advice. Really helps me understand the concept.
Great video Marcus. Kasey has taught you well.
What do you recommend for the millions of people using smartphones instead of cameras?
I love your philosophy, do it right from the beginning, great! And then we come to my problem with exposure, I am shooting sports, I cannot check this for each shot. Do you still mean that I could use these methods? Especially for outdoor photography in the evening... Nightmare to get the right exposure. Any ideas to make it easier?
For sports, auto is best
Thank you so much Markus. You are the Man.
Superb info. Thanks a million.
A very thorough demonstration; thanks! Question for you: what do you think of handheld incident light meters (eg Sekonic) for determining exposure?
What was the correct grey card for the Sony a7rV? Thanks for the video this was awesome.
Can you go over those steps with the canon C 100 mark ii specifically? Like how to adjust your histogram etc. I have two of those cameras now and I’m still learning them. How do you adjust your histogram to get 50%? Thank you.