You just saved us a whole lot of time!! We are in the process of rebuilding one and the books didn’t really go into the process of timing like we needed.
I am pulling the pump because it leaks. I am going to try and replace the gaskets. It does not want to lift out . What do I have to do to remove it ? Do yoou have a video on removal?
It seems like I'm doing everything right up until I put the pump in. It will not seat into the drive gear. If I turn the pump 180 it will seat perfect please help
@aromp3555 do you have the drive in the engine correctly installed? Both the pump and the drive shaft have offset keys on them. If you have the drive and pump shaft the same as my video but don't see the lines in the window, the pump may be put together 180⁰ out. The tractor will not run with the pump 180⁰ out. Once you start trying to crank the tractor, it will smoke a lot if the pump is installed correctly before it fires off.
@chickenhousemechanic I pulled #1 injector to confirm I'm at tdc and the drive gear correct position and it is. Timing marks on 23° slot in drive gear is in correct position with larger part of the hole to the block. I've lined up the timing marks on the injection pump when I dropped the pump in it will not completely seat itself in the drive gear it's binding and will not seat itself in the hole if I pull the pump turn the shaft 160 it will slide in just as it's supposed to this should be very simple I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here
@aromp3555 Yeah, you might have the shaft backwards then. Should be able to just pull the shaft out and rotate it. Should only have to pull it out maybe 3/8".
If my engine is still in the tractor what else needs to come apart?, yours is on a bench with valve covers off, mine whole tractor is completely together.
You can still install the injection pump with the engine installed. All you need to do is verify both rocker arms on cylinder #1 are loose, reason for valve cover being off, and make sure your timing mark lines up correctly in the window. There is no need to remove anything else from the tractor.
@@miked738 you can pull the valve cover out without removing all that. It's tricky but it will come out. Have to roll it out off the studs in the rocker arm shaft. If you have not removed the injection pump drive you can use it to judge if cylinder #1 is on compression or exhaust. If your drive matches mine in the video, and hasn't been removed, then you should be on compression on cylinder #1. Then all you need to do is match the timing mark in the window and you're all set. Really the rocker arm is only important if you have disassembled the engine and need to make sure everything is right since that's the easiest way to tell if the engine is on conpression.
@@chickenhousemechanic I removed the pump and sent it out for a 1000.00 overhaul. it sits just as I removed it but who knows what position it was in when I last hit the kill switch.
@@miked738 since all you did was pull the pump all you need to do is spin the engine over until the pump drive looks like mine and then verify your timing mark in the window. Yours will probably be 23⁰. Since the drive was not removed it is still timed properly to the camshaft and therefore the crankshaft as well.. if it was removed you'd run the risk of being 180⁰ out. That wouldn't cause any damage, the tractor just wouldn't start. Once you have the drive lined up and the timing mark set then go to your pump and make the two marks line up in the window behind the little cover. Once you have those 3 things done your pump should slide into the drive. Then just wiggle the pump to line the marks up in the window perfectly and tighten down your nuts.
Do you have fuel all the way to the pump? It takes quite a bit of cranking to get fuel to come out of the lines. It's possible that the pump isn't putting fuel out though. If that's the case you'll have to have it rebuilt. There are two small vanes at the top of the pump that act like a lift pump to start pulling diesel into the pump but the main pressure building action is more towards the center of the pump. That area has a lot of small components that can be an issue and would be hard for someone to diagnose if not familiar with the pump.
@@chickenhousemechanic I believe I have fuel to the pump. I loosened the in hose going to the pump and fuel came out. I even had it running on starting fluid for a couple seconds. Still no fuel coming out.
@@davidgaziano5624 if you had it running on starting fluid for a few seconds the pump should've spun fast enough to start pumping diesel. Sounds like you have a problem with the pump itself.
@@chickenhousemechanic even if it was installed wrong and not timed correctly it would still pump fuel though right? Well if there was nothing wrong with it. Is there any videos on rebuilding a pump?
@@davidgaziano5624 yes even if installed wrong it should still pump fuel. I don't really have a good video on rebuilding a pump. I have a poor quality one shot on cell phone of me resealing mine but that's all. I'm not sure if there's any special tools needed to repair the pump. Both of the ones I've repaired came off running tractors that just needed resealed and the governor ring replaced.
Open valve on bottom of tank first. Then on your filter housing you will see a brass thumb screw on top. Loosen that until diesel comes out. Once you get diesel to that point crack the lines at all injectors and crank the engine until it starts to squirt out. Once it squirts out tighten lines down and your system is bled. Engine should then start.
I Don't see How I can put the Injector pump Wrong (180 out) if the indexing of the pump shaft into the Drive Gear is Correct (with the Smaller side of the injector Pump drive down)
If the drive gear/shaft hasn't been removed then you can't. However if you remove the shaft it can be installed 180 out, or off by a tooth or more. Instead of compression stroke engine could be on exhaust stroke. The injection pump itself can be 180 out also because the other end of the pump shaft has a keyway that is centered and not offset. If the shaft is removed and not installed back properly it can be 180 out.
I've Got it Right as Disassembled and Pump Drive in with the Smaller Side Hile Down.. Could See NO Mark on the Moving Injector Pump internals.. Thank you Sir..
@@richardtharp1608 on the pump the lower disc rotates. That should be where the mark is. It's usually very faint. However if your pump has had the governor cage, which is the lower disc, replaced and it was not marked then you won't see a mark. At that point I don't know of a good way to get a mark on it. You'll just have to install pump and get tractor running and turn pump like timing a distributor to see what makes the tractor run well. Also try spinning the pump 180⁰ and looking for a mark. If the governor cage was removed but reused it can be installed 180 out and your mark will be on the wrong side. I did that on the one in the video and took me a while to find it. I show a better view of the marks in my rebuilding video.
You just saved us a whole lot of time!! We are in the process of rebuilding one and the books didn’t really go into the process of timing like we needed.
Glad I could help.
Nicely explained and thank you for taking the time to explain the 18 vs 23 degree marks
Excellent presentation. Thank you for sharing.
Done it many times over the years 😊
Thank You
Well explained 😊
Alright I will be waiting
Yes that 18 or 23 degrees will be before tdc or after
Hello how
23 degrees before tdc or after
Before tdc
I am pulling the pump because it leaks. I am going to try and replace the gaskets. It does not want to lift out . What do I have to do to remove it ? Do yoou have a video on removal?
Once the two nuts and washers are off as well as the hard lines disconnected at the injectors the pump should slide right up.
It seems like I'm doing everything right up until I put the pump in. It will not seat into the drive gear. If I turn the pump 180 it will seat perfect please help
@aromp3555 do you have the drive in the engine correctly installed? Both the pump and the drive shaft have offset keys on them. If you have the drive and pump shaft the same as my video but don't see the lines in the window, the pump may be put together 180⁰ out. The tractor will not run with the pump 180⁰ out. Once you start trying to crank the tractor, it will smoke a lot if the pump is installed correctly before it fires off.
@chickenhousemechanic I pulled #1 injector to confirm I'm at tdc and the drive gear correct position and it is. Timing marks on 23° slot in drive gear is in correct position with larger part of the hole to the block. I've lined up the timing marks on the injection pump when I dropped the pump in it will not completely seat itself in the drive gear it's binding and will not seat itself in the hole if I pull the pump turn the shaft 160 it will slide in just as it's supposed to this should be very simple I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here
@aromp3555 sounds like you have the engine set correctly. Was the pump rebuilt?
@chickenhousemechanic all I did was put umbrella seals in it. I thought I kept track of the shaft but apparently I did not
@aromp3555 Yeah, you might have the shaft backwards then. Should be able to just pull the shaft out and rotate it. Should only have to pull it out maybe 3/8".
If my engine is still in the tractor what else needs to come apart?, yours is on a bench with valve covers off, mine whole tractor is completely together.
You can still install the injection pump with the engine installed. All you need to do is verify both rocker arms on cylinder #1 are loose, reason for valve cover being off, and make sure your timing mark lines up correctly in the window. There is no need to remove anything else from the tractor.
@@chickenhousemechanic But I do need to removal all the body work, fuel tank, and valve cover?
@@miked738 you can pull the valve cover out without removing all that. It's tricky but it will come out. Have to roll it out off the studs in the rocker arm shaft. If you have not removed the injection pump drive you can use it to judge if cylinder #1 is on compression or exhaust. If your drive matches mine in the video, and hasn't been removed, then you should be on compression on cylinder #1. Then all you need to do is match the timing mark in the window and you're all set. Really the rocker arm is only important if you have disassembled the engine and need to make sure everything is right since that's the easiest way to tell if the engine is on conpression.
@@chickenhousemechanic I removed the pump and sent it out for a 1000.00 overhaul. it sits just as I removed it but who knows what position it was in when I last hit the kill switch.
@@miked738 since all you did was pull the pump all you need to do is spin the engine over until the pump drive looks like mine and then verify your timing mark in the window. Yours will probably be 23⁰. Since the drive was not removed it is still timed properly to the camshaft and therefore the crankshaft as well.. if it was removed you'd run the risk of being 180⁰ out. That wouldn't cause any damage, the tractor just wouldn't start. Once you have the drive lined up and the timing mark set then go to your pump and make the two marks line up in the window behind the little cover. Once you have those 3 things done your pump should slide into the drive. Then just wiggle the pump to line the marks up in the window perfectly and tighten down your nuts.
So installed my pump. Think I have it right. But I crank the engine over and no fuel comes out of the lines. Is my pump bad?
Do you have fuel all the way to the pump? It takes quite a bit of cranking to get fuel to come out of the lines. It's possible that the pump isn't putting fuel out though. If that's the case you'll have to have it rebuilt. There are two small vanes at the top of the pump that act like a lift pump to start pulling diesel into the pump but the main pressure building action is more towards the center of the pump. That area has a lot of small components that can be an issue and would be hard for someone to diagnose if not familiar with the pump.
@@chickenhousemechanic I believe I have fuel to the pump. I loosened the in hose going to the pump and fuel came out. I even had it running on starting fluid for a couple seconds. Still no fuel coming out.
@@davidgaziano5624 if you had it running on starting fluid for a few seconds the pump should've spun fast enough to start pumping diesel. Sounds like you have a problem with the pump itself.
@@chickenhousemechanic even if it was installed wrong and not timed correctly it would still pump fuel though right? Well if there was nothing wrong with it. Is there any videos on rebuilding a pump?
@@davidgaziano5624 yes even if installed wrong it should still pump fuel. I don't really have a good video on rebuilding a pump. I have a poor quality one shot on cell phone of me resealing mine but that's all. I'm not sure if there's any special tools needed to repair the pump. Both of the ones I've repaired came off running tractors that just needed resealed and the governor ring replaced.
How do you bleed the lines?
Open valve on bottom of tank first. Then on your filter housing you will see a brass thumb screw on top. Loosen that until diesel comes out. Once you get diesel to that point crack the lines at all injectors and crank the engine until it starts to squirt out. Once it squirts out tighten lines down and your system is bled. Engine should then start.
I Don't see How I can put the Injector pump Wrong (180 out) if the indexing of the pump shaft into the Drive Gear is Correct (with the Smaller side of the injector Pump drive down)
If the drive gear/shaft hasn't been removed then you can't. However if you remove the shaft it can be installed 180 out, or off by a tooth or more. Instead of compression stroke engine could be on exhaust stroke. The injection pump itself can be 180 out also because the other end of the pump shaft has a keyway that is centered and not offset. If the shaft is removed and not installed back properly it can be 180 out.
I've Got it Right as Disassembled and Pump Drive in with the Smaller Side Hile Down.. Could See NO Mark on the Moving Injector Pump internals.. Thank you Sir..
@@richardtharp1608 on the pump the lower disc rotates. That should be where the mark is. It's usually very faint. However if your pump has had the governor cage, which is the lower disc, replaced and it was not marked then you won't see a mark. At that point I don't know of a good way to get a mark on it. You'll just have to install pump and get tractor running and turn pump like timing a distributor to see what makes the tractor run well. Also try spinning the pump 180⁰ and looking for a mark. If the governor cage was removed but reused it can be installed 180 out and your mark will be on the wrong side. I did that on the one in the video and took me a while to find it. I show a better view of the marks in my rebuilding video.