I am 100% newbie here but when you did the plunger air testing (1.960), it was my understanding from watching a ton of rebuilds on these pumps that the measurement should be done while the pressure is on. I know it is hard to do it all at once, but what I saw was they made a homemade piece to screw into the port and just connected the air hose, freeing up their hands for measuring. I have to say, your video is the most detailed that I have see thus far, that is very much appreciated.
Yes it's supposed to be measured with air pressure on it. I noticed on mine that once I removed air pressure the rollers stayed outward and I was able to measure it easier. Thanks for the comment on being detailed. I had to research a lot to make the video as thorough as possible.
I really appreciate all your videos in regards to the 172 rebuild they have been very helpful. That being said I have found a simple method in which I can install that large plastic ring in the injection pump (the difficult one) in about 5-10 minutes. Before this method it was very difficult for me and took a long time. I followed your videos and was able to do a complete rebuild on my 172. Love your videos!
Interested as to why not go with the one piece cage? I heard you say that the other lasted 50 years, but if you can prevent any possibility, why not lol @1:26:59 when you put the metering valve in, was there a small spring that went on the part that goes into the hole?, mine has that and was there when i removed it. I did not see or hear mention of that on yours. There are surely some differences, but some expected similarities as well. Mine is off a 1968 580 CK 188 diesel. When you put in the advance plugs/bolts on each side that hits the cam screw, I did not see a spring as mine does, I know there was mention in some videos I watched that the spring(ed) one goes on one side specifically. BTW, i am learning a crap ton from your video, got a thumbs up and sub for sure.
I didn't go with the one piece mainly due to cost. The original ring lasts as long or longer than the seals and I figure I'll be resealing pump before 50 years at which point change the ring and keep trucking. There should be a cone shaped spring under the metering valve. The spring in the advance pistons is under the piston in the cup/bolt. And yes it goes on a specific side based off whether the pump spins clockwise or counter-clockwise. Thanks for the comments, like, and sub.
Thanks for the step by step. It was very helpful. Some constructive criticism. When showing small details like the timing marks on the governor weight cage, perhaps try to show a close up of the marks. All in all a great video.
Most likely cause would be the gasket behind the timing window cover. Housing is solid aluminum behind tag so if it's leaking there the housing would be junk.
@@chickenhousemechanic. Gotcha. Thank you, I appreciate your help! I’ve been binge watching all of your videos since buying my ‘64 4000 diesel. Great work.
What manual do you use ? I have the same pump that needs to be rebuilt, and I'm looking for a service manual and was wondering if the model D service manual will cover the DBG injection pump. I don't want to order the wrong manual, and Jensale, or anyone else can't answer my question. Will the "model D service manual " also include the "DBG" injection pump ? I just bought a tractor that has a bad injection pump on it, and this is all new to me? any help from anyone would be grateful, by the way, love your video's.
The plug on the other side of the linkage arm , is that held in by a clip on the inside ? My plug fell out and I’m trying to figure out what I need to order or find . I haven’t pulled it since I thought it could just be a simple plug .
What did you find was issue I rebuilt mine falling your first video and I'm having kind of same issue hard starting and seems like won't get over half throttle
The square shaft that went through the governor fork was backwards. I had the squared off side toward the fork and it wasn't allowing the fork to pivot. The pointed side goes towards the fork.
@@chickenhousemechanic ok so my problem is tractor has to have throttle wide open to start and use spray but will shut off a fue seconds after I checked timing twice pump seems to be working it squirts out of injector lines but will not show any smoke out of exzost wile cranking? Like it don't have enough pressure?
@deanmustard8731 kinda sounds like the pump isn't timed properly inside. Even though it's squirting fuel out of lines with no smoke puffing that tells me it's not firing diesel into cylinders at the right time. There's a lot of little timing marks in pump that have to line up or you'll be chasing yourself for days. When I first did pump on the 4000 I had the governor cage 180⁰ out and it wouldn't crank. Swapped it around and it fired right up. Even if the pump isn't timed properly to engine, advanced or retarded, you should see smoke coming out if pump is timed properly internally.
@@chickenhousemechanic took apart to check timing markes they all matched up I even watched your video 3 times checked cam rollers I'm Lost tractor is a ford industrial looks just like the 871 power master my pump has a different cam advanced setup but seems to be the same it's like it doesn't have enough pressure to pop injectors primes fast to lines just like yours has solid Governor weight bracket....I'm positive I have timing right if I had advanced timing spring on the wrong side of pump would that make it not have enough pressure?
@deanmustard8731 it's possible it could be causing timing to advance too much if spring is on wrong side. One other thing to check is make sure cylinder #1 is on TDC by watching your rocker arms and making sure the pump drive is installed correctly. I have a video on that too. No smoke could mean that drive is 180⁰ in engine causing injection pump to be 180⁰ out. Once you get smoke it should fire. Only way to pressure check pump is find one someone who has a bench to test it. With the different advance setup you probably have the old style pump which should be set at 18⁰ timing also.
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I am 100% newbie here but when you did the plunger air testing (1.960), it was my understanding from watching a ton of rebuilds on these pumps that the measurement should be done while the pressure is on. I know it is hard to do it all at once, but what I saw was they made a homemade piece to screw into the port and just connected the air hose, freeing up their hands for measuring. I have to say, your video is the most detailed that I have see thus far, that is very much appreciated.
Yes it's supposed to be measured with air pressure on it. I noticed on mine that once I removed air pressure the rollers stayed outward and I was able to measure it easier.
Thanks for the comment on being detailed. I had to research a lot to make the video as thorough as possible.
I really appreciate all your videos in regards to the 172 rebuild they have been very helpful. That being said I have found a simple method in which I can install that large plastic ring in the injection pump (the difficult one) in about 5-10 minutes. Before this method it was very difficult for me and took a long time. I followed your videos and was able to do a complete rebuild on my 172. Love your videos!
Glad they've been a help to you. The ring is really easy to install with snap ring pliers. Especially if the pins aren't damaged like mine were.
Great comeback vid,hope you video the “tune up”, I’m up for it! See 6a again.
Interested as to why not go with the one piece cage? I heard you say that the other lasted 50 years, but if you can prevent any possibility, why not lol @1:26:59 when you put the metering valve in, was there a small spring that went on the part that goes into the hole?, mine has that and was there when i removed it. I did not see or hear mention of that on yours. There are surely some differences, but some expected similarities as well. Mine is off a 1968 580 CK 188 diesel. When you put in the advance plugs/bolts on each side that hits the cam screw, I did not see a spring as mine does, I know there was mention in some videos I watched that the spring(ed) one goes on one side specifically. BTW, i am learning a crap ton from your video, got a thumbs up and sub for sure.
I didn't go with the one piece mainly due to cost. The original ring lasts as long or longer than the seals and I figure I'll be resealing pump before 50 years at which point change the ring and keep trucking. There should be a cone shaped spring under the metering valve. The spring in the advance pistons is under the piston in the cup/bolt. And yes it goes on a specific side based off whether the pump spins clockwise or counter-clockwise.
Thanks for the comments, like, and sub.
Thanks for the step by step. It was very helpful. Some constructive criticism. When showing small details like the timing marks on the governor weight cage, perhaps try to show a close up of the marks. All in all a great video.
In the first minute, I noticed that the pump was dripping below the ROOSTA tag. Mine is doing the same thing. What is that from? Thank you!
Most likely cause would be the gasket behind the timing window cover. Housing is solid aluminum behind tag so if it's leaking there the housing would be junk.
@@chickenhousemechanic. Gotcha. Thank you, I appreciate your help! I’ve been binge watching all of your videos since buying my ‘64 4000 diesel. Great work.
What manual do you use ? I have the same pump that needs to be rebuilt, and I'm looking for a service manual and was wondering if the model D service manual will cover the DBG injection pump. I don't want to order the wrong manual, and Jensale, or anyone else can't answer my question. Will the "model D service manual " also include the "DBG" injection pump ? I just bought a tractor that has a bad injection pump on it, and this is all new to me? any help from anyone would be grateful, by the way, love your video's.
The plug on the other side of the linkage arm , is that held in by a clip on the inside ? My plug fell out and I’m trying to figure out what I need to order or find . I haven’t pulled it since I thought it could just be a simple plug .
At min 5:53 you pull it out
Yes the other plug is held in my the smaller clip. Clip is probably in pump if it's not broken.
@@chickenhousemechanic thanks that’s all I needed to hear . Now to find a plug and clip .. great videos
Where’d you get your service manual for the injection pump?
I found a pdf online for it. I think you can purchase them from jennsales. The one online was kind of generic.
@@chickenhousemechanicokay thank you!
What did you find was issue I rebuilt mine falling your first video and I'm having kind of same issue hard starting and seems like won't get over half throttle
The square shaft that went through the governor fork was backwards. I had the squared off side toward the fork and it wasn't allowing the fork to pivot. The pointed side goes towards the fork.
Good vedeo 😊😊😊
Looks like the cam gear lobes are worn and almost flat, no lobes no pump.
Your too dark
Dose the governor fork linkage go in the collar with the weights or dose it go in the bottom below collar ?
Should go under the collar. The collar will be below top of weights when properly the fork will rest against end of collar.
@@chickenhousemechanic ok so my problem is tractor has to have throttle wide open to start and use spray but will shut off a fue seconds after I checked timing twice pump seems to be working it squirts out of injector lines but will not show any smoke out of exzost wile cranking? Like it don't have enough pressure?
@deanmustard8731 kinda sounds like the pump isn't timed properly inside. Even though it's squirting fuel out of lines with no smoke puffing that tells me it's not firing diesel into cylinders at the right time. There's a lot of little timing marks in pump that have to line up or you'll be chasing yourself for days. When I first did pump on the 4000 I had the governor cage 180⁰ out and it wouldn't crank. Swapped it around and it fired right up. Even if the pump isn't timed properly to engine, advanced or retarded, you should see smoke coming out if pump is timed properly internally.
@@chickenhousemechanic took apart to check timing markes they all matched up I even watched your video 3 times checked cam rollers I'm Lost tractor is a ford industrial looks just like the 871 power master my pump has a different cam advanced setup but seems to be the same it's like it doesn't have enough pressure to pop injectors primes fast to lines just like yours has solid Governor weight bracket....I'm positive I have timing right if I had advanced timing spring on the wrong side of pump would that make it not have enough pressure?
@deanmustard8731 it's possible it could be causing timing to advance too much if spring is on wrong side. One other thing to check is make sure cylinder #1 is on TDC by watching your rocker arms and making sure the pump drive is installed correctly. I have a video on that too. No smoke could mean that drive is 180⁰ in engine causing injection pump to be 180⁰ out. Once you get smoke it should fire. Only way to pressure check pump is find one someone who has a bench to test it. With the different advance setup you probably have the old style pump which should be set at 18⁰ timing also.