Sir, thank you very much for the informations. I am very inspired, now I think it's time for my own Cameo4. Greetings from Switzerland and may the glue by with you. 🗜️🔩🔧
Thank you for those warm greetings. I'm glad the video was helpful. The cameo is a great modeling tool to have in the toolbox. I hope you enjoy yours. Cheers!
This is really incredible- that software tracing tool makes it way easier than I thought it would be. I'm definitely going to try this! Thanks for posting!
Because i like you are creative ,i can give you an alternative use of Cameo ,I have the first cameo that came in the market ages ago....what i did was to buy a premium cutting knife for the printer for vinyls and i am using the one that comes with to cut thin plastic cards or clear plastic sheets for things like panels ,clear windows and details ,even design and cut flat complete stractures like buildings ,fences and ww2 runway details ! Just go very slow on speed and do the cutting in multiples passes deeper every time and you are done !
Thanks for the comment. I've also used it to cut thin plastic and it works well. I haven't mastered that part yet but plan on practicing more. Thank you again!!
@@FlyingSModels so enjoyable and great seeing people still with the love of model making and enjoying a pasttime is rare in today's tik tok 15 seconds of fame world.
Depending on the size of the marking, it works great. But I have found that the cutter starts to struggle when cutting serial numbers and such below 1/8" or so.
Thank you, Raudel. I appreciate the feedback. Unfortunately, I started this one before I really started putting many videos up here on this channel. Most of the techniques, though, are the same as I've used on all the other builds. Let me know if you have any specific questions. Cheers!
Thank you for the good words. I use Oracal 810. You can search online and find it at a number of art supply shops. Let me know if you have any troubles.
Indeed. I'm using the Oracal 810 low tack vinyl and didn't have much luck cutting the Tamiya type masking sheet. Seemed to just tear the tape rather than cut but it could have been a settings problem on my end.
Thanks. I haven't tried that as of yet. I just do the old fashioned tape and trim method whenever I mask canopies. We know it can be done as we have seen the masks, though :)
@@ModelMinutes Just takes a click of the mouse to order one...haha. Actually, the software is free to download so it's nice that you can learn to use it and if you know someone who has a cutter, you can just send them the files to cut. Also good for clubs where modelers can pool resources to by a group machine.
I just discovered your channel & subscribed. Thanks the for the content-rich subjects. What specific vinyl media do you use for your Silhouette cutter when making your own stencils? Thanks -spd
Appreciate the sub and I'm glad you found the channel. Hope that some of the videos provide some useful tips. As far as masks, I'm currently using Oracal 810 low tack vinyl. Works great and the price is right. Let me know if you need anything else. Happy Modeling!
Great video, thanks. Stupid question, but how do you handle the excess white paint that you used as background? Do you put the mask back on and then paint around it?
Not sure I'm tracking the question. For the numerals on the side, I just put the mask down and sprayed the white without any excess white. Maybe I need to rewatch the video so I can understand better what you are asking. If you are talking the insignia, if you don't align the mask right, you may have a little white that didn't get covered. If and when that happens, yes, I put the mask back down or cut a new one and use it to do touchups.
Typically you don't spray the white or background color like that. You'd first lay down the outer most stencil that outlines the entire decal without the inner parts. Spray that interior white then add the inner parts to mask as needed. Otherwise you have to touch up the white over-spray by hand, negating the purpose of the stencil.
Although, you could still proceed the way he did it. I just noticed that the rest of the model isn't painted, so you could do all the decals first then cover them with masks before you lay on the base coat, etc. Usually I add the insignia last so that I have the option of exposing paint layers underneath for weathering purposes.
Feb. 12, 2021---Thanks for the video as it's obviously something modelers can use. I remember many years ago, one of the modeling guys did the same thing, but it was a photo etch set that he'd bought from some where. I remember them having a hole in each corner so they'd line up with each other or on top of each other. Thing is, I see it useful more than on aircraft.....how about numbers/letters on cars, trucks and on the side of a building showing the name of the store or maybe some item, like Coca-Cola, Pepsi, etc.? Or on a billboard. Thing is, are you limited to only 2 stencils per cut? Can I copy graffiti that has 4 colors for example, spraying each color separately? And how small can a stencil be cut? Wonder if you could do a figure as used on your P-51? If not, plan on printing decals of what I want. This is for 1/35th scale zombie/apocalypse dioramas.
Yep, it's a super useful tool. You can use it to spray as many colors as you want, it's just a matter of how fine you want to make the mask and spend the time applying things in layers. For the smaller things, I sometimes use the masks for the primary/larger shapes and then hand paint the finer details. With the standard blade it will cut things down to the 0.25" or so without any issue. I recently bought a special blade made to cut smaller and finer masks but I haven't tried it yet. I think it would be really useful for larger items, especially 1/35.
I get my Portait deliverd today. Out of curiosity: What material do you use for your masks? I orderd the generic tamiya one out of not having any good information about "the way to go" yet.
You are going to really enjoy it. I like the Oracal 810. I tried the tamiya type kabuchi tape but had a few issues with the cut and even bigger ones trying to get the tape sheets off of the sticky cutting mat. The Oracal 810 works really well. I had to play around to get the right cut settings. Let me know if you need any help. You can always message me over on FB: facebook/flyingSmodels.
@@FlyingSModels Thanks mate! Oracal 810 ca be bought in Germany as well -> so i'll give it a try! Seems to be a industrial type foil (not a hobby product). I make sure I get back to you to give proper credit when I use it in video.
@@Tankbrusher Hi. Is indeed an Industrial Product. Used in the Signage Industry here in NZ. Have used it both machine-cut and hand-cut. Great product. Try your local signwriter/graphics/custom vehicle painter.
Not a 'foil'. It's a vinyl material. Buying a roll may be prohibitive. Could bye 'off' the roll locally. If-so, keep piece flat between heavy card with paper tissue where possible and seal card edges with masking tape.
G'day, was looking to purchase one of these and was wondering if you would know how small you can cut with one of these? I need to make a lot of really small decal masks that will have dimensions down around the 3-4mm mark and If this baby can do it then I really regret not getting one years ago. Cheers.
It kind of depends on the shape you are trying to cut. I've cut small circles that are about 4mm without any issues. But when I try to cut letters/fonts that are below around 6-8mm's, that the cutter blade can lift out part that was cut. That hasn't been an issue for me as I usually want that part removed anyway. Only issue is for the inside of the "A" or "O" or "4" for example. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Thanks so much for that video, I too am wanting to create masking sand decals, between the two machines that you recommend which would be the the better choice? I’m pretty good on a computer but not the best, is one easier to use than the other, and is it worth the extra $ for the newer Silohoute 4. Thank you.
I have a Silhouette Cameo 3. I haven't fully researched the differences between the Portrait and the Cameo series. I think the main difference is size. If you are cutting smaller masks, the Portrait is probably just fine. I think it cuts up to 8" wide. I do like the Cameo since I get the Oracal in 12" wide sheets so I don't have to trim it. But I usually am not cutting a very big sheet so the smaller one would be ok too.
@@AngryPepper1964 Let me know if you need help down the road. I've got a bunch of insignias and such drawn up that I can share so you don't have to start from scratch. You can ping me over at facebook/flyingSmodels if you want them.
@@ecosurfshop Thanks. I'm a little confused, though, was that not part of the video? I thought I showed how to import the image of the P-51 and trace over that for the markings? It's the same process for the decal sheet, just scan it or take a photo and import. Let me know what would be good for a video and I'll certainly make one. Want to make sure to provide the best guidance I can. Thank you again.
I think this is where I got mine last year: craftcuttersupply.com/products/oramask-810-stencil-vinyl?variant=8220444065837 But I've also heard that Artool Ultramask might be even better. I haven't tried it yet, though. Let me know if you need anything else.
Okay I have a question this is obviously great for insignias and registration lettering but what do you do for placards? aircraft have placards all over them and little tiny writing like around near the cockpit and access panels have writing that's super tiny especially in 1/48 scale (that is available in decals) is there any way to make these or replicate this? I don't think that this cutting machine is able to cut a stencil that tiny so what is your solution for all the placards that are on aircraft?
Hey Nathan, that's a great question and the unfortunate answer, as you already stated, is that the cutter does have limitations and creating small stencils in 1/48 is next to impossible. Even if it could cut them, placing those and painting them would be a nightmare. I go back to decals when they get that small.
@@FlyingSModels That's what I figured but how do model companies make the little placard decals I mean I know that decals used stencils so how are they able to create such tiny writing and lettering there must be a machine that can cut that fine or tiny of lettering I've even seen placards in 1/72nd scale model kits you basically need a magnifying glass to read the things
Great video to motivate me to finally use my Silhouette Portrait (smaller and cheaper than the Cameo but just as good for cutting small masks). I do have one question - how do you size the mask images to the correct size?
Thanks for the feedback. Glad it can help motivate. I usually take measurements from the kit decals or scale them based on actual dimensions and model scale. Let me know if you have any other questions! You'll be glad you made the masks when you are done.
That would take a while to compile and would certainly be a long video. Also, my screenshot software doesn't capture the pull down menus/clicks so it would be a bit challenging. Like I mentioned in the video, it is free to download and it's pretty intuitive. If you have any specific questions, I'd be happy to try to help or demo those.
@@billdelphenich5006 Sorry to hear about that, Bill. I created some custom settings for mine. They are: Blade depth 3, Speed 10, Force 4 and set to 1 pass. What kind of issues are you having?
@@FlyingSModels My setup is brand new, so I'm just getting started with this. I've tried Tamiya Masking Film and Oramask 810 with and without the cutting mat. I started out using the default setting in Silhouette Studio for "Stencil Material". The default setting for that material is Force=33, which might explain why I ended up cutting right through the mat. And of course the cuts are lousy. I have since started creating my own custom settings for those two materials, but I haven't got it right yet. Thanks for any advice.
@@billdelphenich5006 Yep, I found it to be a little trial and error to get the settings right. Another really important thing on the Oramask is that you can't use an old mat. If the Oramask gets a little loose on the mat, it will shift and the cuts won't be good. I've been using those settings now for a while with good results. I never had much luck with the Tamiya film. If you have cut without a mat, I'd check that blade to make sure it's not damaged. I have not heard of anyone cutting without the mat so I'm not sure what the blade would cut against other than the body of the printer/cutter (which might not be great for the blade life or the cutter).
I think I got mine here for less than a buck a sheet for the 12x12 sheets. craftcuttersupply.com/products/oramask-810-stencil-vinyl?variant=8220444033069
One thing that has kept me from buying this machine is that nowhere could I find anything that could tell me how small it can create letters and numbers. You said 1/4" high so that tells me something right there. Thanks.
Yep. It's tough to say. There are better cutters than the stock ones that might allow you to cut really small but I've used it down to probably 1/8" lettering with some success. 1/4" works great but when you get smaller than that, the cutter sometimes lifts parts of the mask as it cuts....at least with the stock cutting blades. I purchased a set of cutting blades that might allow smaller lettering but haven't tried them out yet so I can't report out one way or the other.
What a great little video there. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the feedback. Glad you liked it. Hope it helps.
Sir, thank you very much for the informations. I am very inspired, now I think it's time for my own Cameo4.
Greetings from Switzerland and may the glue by with you. 🗜️🔩🔧
Thank you for those warm greetings. I'm glad the video was helpful. The cameo is a great modeling tool to have in the toolbox. I hope you enjoy yours. Cheers!
This is really incredible- that software tracing tool makes it way easier than I thought it would be. I'm definitely going to try this! Thanks for posting!
It is very easy and fun to boot. I hope you have fun with yours. Let me know if you ever have any questions. Appreciate the feedback!
Because i like you are creative ,i can give you an alternative use of Cameo ,I have the first cameo that came in the market ages ago....what i did was to buy a premium cutting knife for the printer for vinyls and i am using the one that comes with to cut thin plastic cards or clear plastic sheets for things like panels ,clear windows and details ,even design and cut flat complete stractures like buildings ,fences and ww2 runway details ! Just go very slow on speed and do the cutting in multiples passes deeper every time and you are done !
Thanks for the comment. I've also used it to cut thin plastic and it works well. I haven't mastered that part yet but plan on practicing more. Thank you again!!
This is absolutely fantastic. What a wonderful tool.
It has become one of my favorite tools in the "arsenal". Right behind the airbrush.
Great video tutorial 👌👍
Thank you. I hope it helped!
Thank you for this video and the help. Keep up the great work.
Thank you for the feedback...appreciate the kind words.
Brilliant 👏 video
Thanks! Appreciate you taking the time to provide the feedback!
@@FlyingSModels so enjoyable and great seeing people still with the love of model making and enjoying a pasttime is rare in today's tik tok 15 seconds of fame world.
excellent. Now i understand how the cutter software works. What about 1/72 scale models?
Depending on the size of the marking, it works great. But I have found that the cutter starts to struggle when cutting serial numbers and such below 1/8" or so.
Hey Chad!
As usual great video and technique. Would you have a video on painting this Razorback?
Thank you, Raudel. I appreciate the feedback. Unfortunately, I started this one before I really started putting many videos up here on this channel. Most of the techniques, though, are the same as I've used on all the other builds. Let me know if you have any specific questions. Cheers!
Terrific tutorial..................... I have models almost 20 years old and non of them have ever silvered. This must be a very uncommon phenomenon.
That just means you are doing things right! Congrats! But painted on decals are pretty dang fun and weather in really nicely.
Silvering is far from uncommon. Obviously there are techniques to prevent it from happening but it definitely happens without careful application.
Hi ! First I love your job ! can you give me the reference of the masking sheet that you use in the cutting machine? many thanks per advance
Appreciate the good words. I use Oracal 810 and I order it from craftcuttersupply.com. I just buy it in 12x12 sheets for ease of use. Hope this helps.
Amazing tutorial!
I'm thinking to buy the silhouette 3 model for my masks.
It's better to paint the markings before or after the camouflage?
For sure. You won't regret it. Makes for much better markings. I apply the masks/marking after the camo is down. Cheers!
@@FlyingSModels thank you very much, I find your tutorials very helpful and inspiring!!!
Hello! what kind of sticky paper do you use?
Thanks for such a good video
Thank you for the good words. I use Oracal 810. You can search online and find it at a number of art supply shops. Let me know if you have any troubles.
Indeed this cutter tool rocks. What film are you using? Does it work with a Tamiya masking sheet?
Indeed. I'm using the Oracal 810 low tack vinyl and didn't have much luck cutting the Tamiya type masking sheet. Seemed to just tear the tape rather than cut but it could have been a settings problem on my end.
Nice instruction, thanks 👍
Thanks! Glad you liked it. Hope it helps.
Thank you for the tuto. I will try asap.
Sounds great! Look forward to hearing how it works for you.
Great video! One question: hardest masks to do are cockpit... how do you get pattern o file to make masks for a A6M5 ZERO, for exemple?
Thanks. I haven't tried that as of yet. I just do the old fashioned tape and trim method whenever I mask canopies. We know it can be done as we have seen the masks, though :)
Very clever!
Works far better than decals and really helps when you can't find decals for what you want :)
@@FlyingSModels I'd certainly consider doing this if I had a cutter
@@ModelMinutes Just takes a click of the mouse to order one...haha. Actually, the software is free to download so it's nice that you can learn to use it and if you know someone who has a cutter, you can just send them the files to cut. Also good for clubs where modelers can pool resources to by a group machine.
@@FlyingSModels great idea!
@@ModelMinutes You can always send them to me for cutting if you can't find anyone :)
great! thanks! and the sofware is in the machine?
Thanks! Actually, the software is downloaded from their site but it's free.
@@FlyingSModels fantástic, very thanks for your video
I just discovered your channel & subscribed. Thanks the for the content-rich subjects. What specific vinyl media do you use for your Silhouette cutter when making your own stencils? Thanks -spd
Appreciate the sub and I'm glad you found the channel. Hope that some of the videos provide some useful tips. As far as masks, I'm currently using Oracal 810 low tack vinyl. Works great and the price is right. Let me know if you need anything else. Happy Modeling!
Great video, thanks. Stupid question, but how do you handle the excess white paint that you used as background? Do you put the mask back on and then paint around it?
Not sure I'm tracking the question. For the numerals on the side, I just put the mask down and sprayed the white without any excess white. Maybe I need to rewatch the video so I can understand better what you are asking. If you are talking the insignia, if you don't align the mask right, you may have a little white that didn't get covered. If and when that happens, yes, I put the mask back down or cut a new one and use it to do touchups.
Typically you don't spray the white or background color like that. You'd first lay down the outer most stencil that outlines the entire decal without the inner parts. Spray that interior white then add the inner parts to mask as needed. Otherwise you have to touch up the white over-spray by hand, negating the purpose of the stencil.
Although, you could still proceed the way he did it. I just noticed that the rest of the model isn't painted, so you could do all the decals first then cover them with masks before you lay on the base coat, etc. Usually I add the insignia last so that I have the option of exposing paint layers underneath for weathering purposes.
Feb. 12, 2021---Thanks for the video as it's obviously something modelers can use. I remember many years ago, one of the modeling guys did the same thing, but it was a photo etch set that he'd bought from some where. I remember them having a hole in each corner so they'd line up with each other or on top of each other. Thing is, I see it useful more than on aircraft.....how about numbers/letters on cars, trucks and on the side of a building showing the name of the store or maybe some item, like Coca-Cola, Pepsi, etc.? Or on a billboard. Thing is, are you limited to only 2 stencils per cut? Can I copy graffiti that has 4 colors for example, spraying each color separately? And how small can a stencil be cut? Wonder if you could do a figure as used on your P-51? If not, plan on printing decals of what I want. This is for 1/35th scale zombie/apocalypse dioramas.
Yep, it's a super useful tool. You can use it to spray as many colors as you want, it's just a matter of how fine you want to make the mask and spend the time applying things in layers. For the smaller things, I sometimes use the masks for the primary/larger shapes and then hand paint the finer details. With the standard blade it will cut things down to the 0.25" or so without any issue. I recently bought a special blade made to cut smaller and finer masks but I haven't tried it yet. I think it would be really useful for larger items, especially 1/35.
I get my Portait deliverd today. Out of curiosity: What material do you use for your masks? I orderd the generic tamiya one out of not having any good information about "the way to go" yet.
You are going to really enjoy it. I like the Oracal 810. I tried the tamiya type kabuchi tape but had a few issues with the cut and even bigger ones trying to get the tape sheets off of the sticky cutting mat. The Oracal 810 works really well. I had to play around to get the right cut settings. Let me know if you need any help. You can always message me over on FB: facebook/flyingSmodels.
@@FlyingSModels Thanks mate! Oracal 810 ca be bought in Germany as well -> so i'll give it a try! Seems to be a industrial type foil (not a hobby product). I make sure I get back to you to give proper credit when I use it in video.
@@Tankbrusher Appreciate that. Let me know if you have any troubles!
@@Tankbrusher Hi. Is indeed an Industrial Product. Used in the Signage Industry here in NZ.
Have used it both machine-cut and hand-cut. Great product. Try your local signwriter/graphics/custom vehicle painter.
Not a 'foil'. It's a vinyl material. Buying a roll may be prohibitive. Could bye 'off' the roll locally. If-so, keep piece flat between heavy card with paper tissue where possible and seal card edges with masking tape.
G'day, was looking to purchase one of these and was wondering if you would know how small you can cut with one of these? I need to make a lot of really small decal masks that will have dimensions down around the 3-4mm mark and If this baby can do it then I really regret not getting one years ago. Cheers.
It kind of depends on the shape you are trying to cut. I've cut small circles that are about 4mm without any issues. But when I try to cut letters/fonts that are below around 6-8mm's, that the cutter blade can lift out part that was cut. That hasn't been an issue for me as I usually want that part removed anyway. Only issue is for the inside of the "A" or "O" or "4" for example. Let me know if you have any more questions.
@@FlyingSModels Sounds good to me, thanks very much.
Thanks so much for that video, I too am wanting to create masking sand decals, between the two machines that you recommend which would be the the better choice? I’m pretty good on a computer but not the best, is one easier to use than the other, and is it worth the extra $ for the newer Silohoute 4. Thank you.
I have a Silhouette Cameo 3. I haven't fully researched the differences between the Portrait and the Cameo series. I think the main difference is size. If you are cutting smaller masks, the Portrait is probably just fine. I think it cuts up to 8" wide. I do like the Cameo since I get the Oracal in 12" wide sheets so I don't have to trim it. But I usually am not cutting a very big sheet so the smaller one would be ok too.
@@FlyingSModels OK thanks.
@@AngryPepper1964 Let me know if you need help down the road. I've got a bunch of insignias and such drawn up that I can share so you don't have to start from scratch. You can ping me over at facebook/flyingSmodels if you want them.
Absolutely, thanks so much FSM.
Just wondering - can you scan the out of box decals direct and then develop the stencils from there??
Yep, super easy to import in an image of the decals and trace over them.
@@FlyingSModels thanks for that - you might consider doing a tutorial
@@ecosurfshop Thanks. I'm a little confused, though, was that not part of the video? I thought I showed how to import the image of the P-51 and trace over that for the markings? It's the same process for the decal sheet, just scan it or take a photo and import. Let me know what would be good for a video and I'll certainly make one. Want to make sure to provide the best guidance I can. Thank you again.
You have a link for the low tack mask? That'd be super
I think this is where I got mine last year: craftcuttersupply.com/products/oramask-810-stencil-vinyl?variant=8220444065837
But I've also heard that Artool Ultramask might be even better. I haven't tried it yet, though. Let me know if you need anything else.
@@FlyingSModels Thanks for the link! Great price on the Oramask 810. Yes, I rewatched this as looking for something post Tamiya sheet to use.
Okay I have a question this is obviously great for insignias and registration lettering but what do you do for placards? aircraft have placards all over them and little tiny writing like around near the cockpit and access panels have writing that's super tiny especially in 1/48 scale (that is available in decals) is there any way to make these or replicate this? I don't think that this cutting machine is able to cut a stencil that tiny so what is your solution for all the placards that are on aircraft?
Hey Nathan, that's a great question and the unfortunate answer, as you already stated, is that the cutter does have limitations and creating small stencils in 1/48 is next to impossible. Even if it could cut them, placing those and painting them would be a nightmare. I go back to decals when they get that small.
@@FlyingSModels That's what I figured but how do model companies make the little placard decals I mean I know that decals used stencils so how are they able to create such tiny writing and lettering there must be a machine that can cut that fine or tiny of lettering I've even seen placards in 1/72nd scale model kits you basically need a magnifying glass to read the things
Great video to motivate me to finally use my Silhouette Portrait (smaller and cheaper than the Cameo but just as good for cutting small masks). I do have one question - how do you size the mask images to the correct size?
Thanks for the feedback. Glad it can help motivate. I usually take measurements from the kit decals or scale them based on actual dimensions and model scale. Let me know if you have any other questions! You'll be glad you made the masks when you are done.
FlyingSModels I guess I need to play more with the software. Is there a measure tool to measure lengths or diameters?
The software provides the overall dimensions when you draw the shape/object and I use a micrometer to measure the kit's decals.
Can you do a full demo of how you use the software?
That would take a while to compile and would certainly be a long video. Also, my screenshot software doesn't capture the pull down menus/clicks so it would be a bit challenging. Like I mentioned in the video, it is free to download and it's pretty intuitive. If you have any specific questions, I'd be happy to try to help or demo those.
@@FlyingSModels I have the same setup you have but having no luck getting satisfactory results. What settings are you using with the Oramask 810?
@@billdelphenich5006 Sorry to hear about that, Bill. I created some custom settings for mine. They are: Blade depth 3, Speed 10, Force 4 and set to 1 pass. What kind of issues are you having?
@@FlyingSModels My setup is brand new, so I'm just getting started with this. I've tried Tamiya Masking Film and Oramask 810 with and without the cutting mat. I started out using the default setting in Silhouette Studio for "Stencil Material". The default setting for that material is Force=33, which might explain why I ended up cutting right through the mat. And of course the cuts are lousy. I have since started creating my own custom settings for those two materials, but I haven't got it right yet. Thanks for any advice.
@@billdelphenich5006 Yep, I found it to be a little trial and error to get the settings right. Another really important thing on the Oramask is that you can't use an old mat. If the Oramask gets a little loose on the mat, it will shift and the cuts won't be good. I've been using those settings now for a while with good results. I never had much luck with the Tamiya film. If you have cut without a mat, I'd check that blade to make sure it's not damaged. I have not heard of anyone cutting without the mat so I'm not sure what the blade would cut against other than the body of the printer/cutter (which might not be great for the blade life or the cutter).
Is this similar to a cricut?
Yep, pretty much the same.
I have the cricut Maker where can I find the Vinyl mask you are using i can't find it anywhere
I think I got mine here for less than a buck a sheet for the 12x12 sheets. craftcuttersupply.com/products/oramask-810-stencil-vinyl?variant=8220444033069
@@FlyingSModels thanks so much keep up the excellent videos.
@@reconmodelsvaughn469 Will do. Thank you!
One thing that has kept me from buying this machine is that nowhere could I find anything that could tell me how small it can create letters and numbers. You said 1/4" high so that tells me something right there. Thanks.
Yep. It's tough to say. There are better cutters than the stock ones that might allow you to cut really small but I've used it down to probably 1/8" lettering with some success. 1/4" works great but when you get smaller than that, the cutter sometimes lifts parts of the mask as it cuts....at least with the stock cutting blades. I purchased a set of cutting blades that might allow smaller lettering but haven't tried them out yet so I can't report out one way or the other.
Can you provide all the settings for cutting for the Silhouette cutter
Here you go: Auto blade, Force = 10, Speed = 4, Passes = 1. This is for an Oracal 810 mask material.
How you scale it to 1/48?
I'm not sure I understand. The software does all the scaling. Let me know more specifics if you need additional information.
@@FlyingSModels I had 1/32 decal to scale it to 1/48, how do it do it Im new to this.
@@shijansantos Sorry, just reduce the 32 decal sheet by 67%. You can scan it in and then shrink it to that scale.
@@FlyingSModels thanks
@@shijansantos Let me know if you need more help.
Build tanks instead. Fewer decals.
That's always another solution :)
Why are you whispering?
Hahaha...low volume, I guess. Should have boosted the audio levels a bit. Don't want anyone falling asleep ;)