Hi! As a gun girl, I love the cutting board!! It turned out great. I’ve got a background story and a question. I’m making a .925 sterling silver wrapped wire pendant for a customer and initially I had filled the holes on the demonstration model with acrylic top coat nail polish. We decided to go with resin instead because it would strengthen the wings increasing the of the pendant. The problem came when I taped the wings (I’ve done 2 of the four so far.). Thank the Lord I had the foresight to at least separate the wings, but because the frame of the pendant is crafted of several pieces, gauges, and shapes of silver wire, the resin flowed and pooled under and beyond the border of the frame. So, I spent at least an hour just trying to flatten it out and find the wire edges. I still need to pick up a multi grit sanding pack. Do you have any tips which might make the other wings pour easier from the start? Thanks in advance for any tips, ~Ali
You Rock! Your video drove me to buy the MAS epoxy, and some items on your Amazon resin list. Question: Any tips for cleaning the mixing pails and mixer drill attachment?
Awe yey! And I let the resin cure in the plastic mixing cups and then I flip them over and gently hit them with a rubber mallet and then squeeze the sides a bit till the resin pops out. Sometimes it’s easier than others. And for the mixers… ha. I just let them drip and cure and usually leave the resin on there. So not much help there!
Is there a risk of the epoxy getting too hot while sanding and causing damage? I was using a belt sander for the early rough part on my first attempt and it seemed to get pretty hot.
Can get a 1000% better shine with 3M 3 step compound and polish/sealer after going from 160- 5000 sand paper in about 8 steps and wet sand after 400 paper
Why do you use the walrus oil on your epoxy finish after you have polished the epoxy? This is in reference to the how to polish epoxy resin, and get glasslike results with Merca video…TY
You are wasting a lot of time sanding through the grits.. the first level of paper you use removes any imperfections and flattens the surface. The each of the remaining grits only needs to remove the peaks left by the previous level of paper that was used before it... with an orbital sanding, all grits after the first will only take a few passes back and forth, or 10-20 seconds on each area MAX (this assumes you aren't skipping more than one grit at a time). Any longer than that and you're just wasting time sanding material away and not actual making the surface any smoother. The LOWEST point of the valleys left by the intial grit should theoretically be the lowest point of any other grit to follow, ultimately becoming the finished surface once all of the peaks are removed. In other words, you're removing base material with the initial grit ONLY and flattening the sanding marks with the proceeding grits.. i.e. You're going from this: '`'`'`''`'`'`'`'` to this: _________ in steps like this: ```'`''`'`''`''`'`' -> \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ -> VVVVVVVV -> vvvvvvvvvvv -> , , , , , , , , , , -> ________
@@jefferyf6930 you'll never get a glass like finish stopping at 320, unless your spraying a clear coat or putting and epoxy top coat. but when you're doing it like in this video I go all the way up to 1500, not skipping any grits, doing 4 passes on each grit going as slow as she is, any if you only do one or two passes you'll never get rid of the swirl marks, then after 1500 , 3 passes with Mirka 45 , 2 with Mirka 15 and 2 with Mirka 5 . that's my process and it works good. if you see little swirl marks after 800 or 1000, sand them out with a sanding block and your hand, then move up to the next grit. good luck !
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Your sanding/polishing tips help me so much!
I'm so glad! Makes it worth it!
Hi! As a gun girl, I love the cutting board!! It turned out great.
I’ve got a background story and a question. I’m making a .925 sterling silver wrapped wire pendant for a customer and initially I had filled the holes on the demonstration model with acrylic top coat nail polish. We decided to go with resin instead because it would strengthen the wings increasing the of the pendant.
The problem came when I taped the wings (I’ve done 2 of the four so far.). Thank the Lord I had the foresight to at least separate the wings, but because the frame of the pendant is crafted of several pieces, gauges, and shapes of silver wire, the resin flowed and pooled under and beyond the border of the frame.
So, I spent at least an hour just trying to flatten it out and find the wire edges. I still need to pick up a multi grit sanding pack.
Do you have any tips which might make the other wings pour easier from the start? Thanks in advance for any tips, ~Ali
This was so very helpful! Thanks a million for all the tips and info! ❤
Very good video! I hope this blows up!
Let's hope! Haha. Would be sweet
Nice demo, thanks for the grading discs to use
thanks for the tips. Will definitely be suing them...cheers!
Using* lol
@@VipunEnvisageDesigns lol ya no "suing!" Haha but great. Thank you so much for watching and hope it helps!!
You Rock! Your video drove me to buy the MAS epoxy, and some items on your Amazon resin list.
Question: Any tips for cleaning the mixing pails and mixer drill attachment?
Awe yey! And I let the resin cure in the plastic mixing cups and then I flip them over and gently hit them with a rubber mallet and then squeeze the sides a bit till the resin pops out. Sometimes it’s easier than others. And for the mixers… ha. I just let them drip and cure and usually leave the resin on there. So not much help there!
We have found that Alcohol and Acetone work well IF you allow it to soak a bit.
Is there a risk of the epoxy getting too hot while sanding and causing damage? I was using a belt sander for the early rough part on my first attempt and it seemed to get pretty hot.
Awesome video just what I needed!
Can get a 1000% better shine with 3M 3 step compound and polish/sealer after going from 160- 5000 sand paper in about 8 steps and wet sand after 400 paper
Is it a special sandpaper for wet sanding? Or just still regular sand paper? Thanks!
Hey ur results are great !
I have never used mirka polarshine
Is polarshine 35 enough??
( As people use 5 ,10 also)
Great video Cass! I have had the Polarshine for a while and haven’t used it. 🙈I will now! 😁✨
Yessssss! Do it! And thanks for watching!
Great informative video. Thank you 😊
Heck yeah!!
Hehe thanksssss
Very nice work skill sister
Love it!
Why do you use the walrus oil on your epoxy finish after you have polished the epoxy?
This is in reference to the how to polish epoxy resin, and get glasslike results with Merca video…TY
What happens if you wash the surface a bunch of times does that get rid of the polish??
What kind of sander are you using?
Sooo i did the levels & then used the polarshine w/ the 4000 & now it looks cloudy & murky :(
how to remove swirling on epoxy? moke video on it request
Ugh unfortunately starting back down at the beginning!
I use a little bit of spit and dog hair to get that extra shine.
You would. Whatever works tho
@@stonemillandco great video though. Your voiceover is 🤌🏽👌🏽
@@CowDogCraftWorks but you're just now listening? 😑😢
mirka is best
You are wasting a lot of time sanding through the grits.. the first level of paper you use removes any imperfections and flattens the surface.
The each of the remaining grits only needs to remove the peaks left by the previous level of paper that was used before it... with an orbital sanding, all grits after the first will only take a few passes back and forth, or 10-20 seconds on each area MAX (this assumes you aren't skipping more than one grit at a time). Any longer than that and you're just wasting time sanding material away and not actual making the surface any smoother.
The LOWEST point of the valleys left by the intial grit should theoretically be the lowest point of any other grit to follow, ultimately becoming the finished surface once all of the peaks are removed.
In other words, you're removing base material with the initial grit ONLY and flattening the sanding marks with the proceeding grits.. i.e. You're going from this: '`'`'`''`'`'`'`'` to this: _________ in steps like this: ```'`''`'`''`''`'`' -> \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ -> VVVVVVVV -> vvvvvvvvvvv -> , , , , , , , , , , -> ________
exactly. When you factor in time and materials this would be expensive.
What would be your suggestion for the highest grit to use? 320?
@@jefferyf6930 for polishing? 2000
@@jefferyf6930 you'll never get a glass like finish stopping at 320, unless your spraying a clear coat or putting and epoxy top coat. but when you're doing it like in this video I go all the way up to 1500, not skipping any grits, doing 4 passes on each grit going as slow as she is, any if you only do one or two passes you'll never get rid of the swirl marks, then after 1500 , 3 passes with Mirka 45 , 2 with Mirka 15 and 2 with Mirka 5 . that's my process and it works good. if you see little swirl marks after 800 or 1000, sand them out with a sanding block and your hand, then move up to the next grit. good luck !
It's not Mërka but Mirka. iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii not ë!!!!!
I also do polishes and if you need me for work, I can come