Agree with 2 of three comments but at the factory many manufacturers (Suzuki included) run the motors at idle with water supplied through the flush port
Right on. You wouldn't outboard oil in your car engine....then why would you put automotive oil in your outboard? Outboard oil has different oil classifications, and has much higher levels of Zinc anti wear additive than automotive oils.
Thanks for watching, Christa! Yes, you are correct. While marine and automotive engines work similarly, marine engines encounter a lot of conditions that vehicles don't, thus the difference in oil formulas. Plus, using the oil recommended by the manufacturer helps ensure the motor is covered under warranty should something go wrong. But you'll always have folks who think they know better ... 🤷🏻♀️
I follow the dealer's recommendations where I bought my new outboard motor. Of course, it's a two stroke direct injection model which is a little different.
Mercury motors specifically state in the manual to run the engine at idle during the flush operation using the flush port to open the cooling bypasses.
I flush my yamahas while running every trip. The mechanics do it and recommend it. The engine must not run over idle and the water supply needs to be high pressure. Don't try flushing two engines at the same time.
@@three4one-grouper_fishing Thanks for your response. We always recommend following manufacturer recommendations for your specific engines, which it sounds like you do.
New topic suggestion...….How do you fog a four stroke, fuel injected outboard to get it ready for storage when you don't have a removable fuel line with like a portable type gas tank?
Great question! Yes, it's highly recommended to flush outboard engines with freshwater every time you use them. This is especially true if you boat in saltwater or brackish water. But even if you boat in freshwater, a flush after use will help clear out any silt you might pick up. Each motor is different, so consult your owners manual as to the recommended method and flush time.
@@boatus How long to run with a Ear Muff setup, is there a thermostat we have to wait to open before we stop flushing? Possibly another vid for the RIGHT way to do this type of flush?
@@BornAgainCynic0086 Hi Jeff. Ask and you shall receive: ruclips.net/video/NB77LPB8U8c/видео.html We just posted this video on outboard engine flushing a few weeks ago. The amount of time is generally the same, but consult your owner's manual for manufacturer recommendations.
ok I checked the service book on Suzuki and have a long answer --says 4 stroke motor oil • NMMA FC-W classification: SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM. or API classification: SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM. • Viscosity rating: NMMA FC-W 10W-40 or SAE 10W-40 the word 4 stroke is to make sure you dont use it as 2stroke oil no need to buy special oil saying boat oil here is some more info clipped from web RAY: No, you don't need to be concerned, Dave. The letter combinations are performance ratings from the American Petroleum Institute, or API. When your van was manufactured, the top-of-the-line motor oil was rated SG, so that's what Ford called for. TOM: Well, since then, oils have continued to improve. They now last longer, lubricate better and hold more contaminants in suspension. And as oils have gotten better, they've been given higher designations. SH replaced SG in the top spot. Then came SI, SJ, SK and SL. RAY: And now the best-performing oil is SM. TOM: So, since your vehicle calls for SG or better, your engine can run on anything from SG through SM. RAY: By the way, oil designations that start with the letter S are for gasoline engines, and those that start with C are for diesel engines
Not sure which outboard you have, but I just pulled a selection of Suzuki 4-stroke owners manuals from the manufacturer's website, and all specify using MARINE oil around page 6 or 7. If you respond with your specific engine model, I would be happy to look that one up to confirm. Also, while interesting (my weekends are incomplete without "Car Talk") and a good explanation of what the oil classifications mean, I'm a bit slow on the point you're trying to make with the latter comment. Can you explain? (Maybe I just need a bit more caffeine this morning?)
I visited the Suzuki and found a two page sample page owner manuals with no reference of oil . I looked up by my own 2003 and 2013 owner and service book and came with the same result as earlier . service book supersedes marketing books or Suzuki's web site as it is designed by marketing and not checked fully for errors since it is not a technical book and some web designer may added or delete information on the Suzuki engine. If you post a link I have Suzuki to correct their web site .. this is the link I found www.genuinesuzukimanuals.com/samples/sm.pdf
Go to www.genuinesuzukimanuals.com. I'm talking original owners manuals here, not marketing materials. At the top of the page, select "marine" from the dropdown menu, then choose your engine. (You'll need the model, prefix, and engine number from the plate.) If it has a "download PDF" next to it, click on that for a free PDF download of the manual. Otherwise, it is probably worth the $20 to purchase it. (And even better, if you've got an extra $90 and you do any of your own work on your engine, download the service manual. This is the actual manual the techs use for servicing.) FWIW, EVERY PDF I downloaded (and I downloaded several) recommends using Suzuki MARINE engine oil. I'd be happy to email you a copy of the PDF and/or screen shots.
I think the number one maintenance issue is not using a professional mechanic. I would never own a boat that I could also use as a poling platform for example. There is no such thing as a "mechanically sound engine" nor a warranty that can't be voided. "It's better to be the driver than the Trucking Company" by way of example and in fact I rarely see boats period these days which is why I love boating..
Thanks, Andrew! Some good points here. Hiring a good mechanic is critical to keep things running well (and warranties valid). That said, aBoatU.S. towing membership is a cost-effective backup for when things do happen.
That's what I did, but here is one worry. My older boat was not built for the weight of the new four stroke engines, so I needed to plan that carefully. I ended up with a Yamaha 115 4 stroke, though I really wanted the 150, but as is, the 115 is a bit too heavy and give me a bow high attitude, unlike the weight of the original 2 stroke powered engine that was on there. Now I'm moving the batteries forward, and getting a dolphin for the cavitation plate to bring the nose down a bit
Here is one more--FAR more important issue I ran into. One that is way too often overlooked. On boats of a certain age, they did not have, as a legal requirement a true "sea cock" in place. That device has a 45 degree shut off valve for the water inlets into your boat--like your bait tank. Newer boats come built with it. My older hull did not have it, so I put one in. Hardest to reach job I ever did. But see, imagine as an analogy if your water main bursts at your home--what do you do? You run outside and shut off the main, right? Same deal here, if a hose breaks or pops off and your boat starts filling with water--you have minutes, maybe seconds to "shut off the main" and that's why by law, new boats have this. Many boaters have their boats sink out from under them because their tiny bilge pumps can't come close to keeping up with a true, catastrophic failure of one of the thru full fittings. Especially consider you may have family--kids, on that thing, so I figure we have a responsibility to have the thru hulls iron clad. Do it yourself or hire it--but get it done, for sure. Even expensive yachts sink ALL THE TIME, with that as the main cause. The biggest thru hull of all? When you have an inboard power and an engine shaft that sticks through the bottom of the boat, with a big rubber gasket to protect that seal. Imagine the engine running-maybe a bit out of time; the vibration is constant and after that gasket gets brittle--and it will, all of the sudden "the boat is filling with water"--and down you go to the old place, as old seamen used to say.
@@jimquantic thats why I have an outboard on my full keel sailboat...I keep appropriate sized wooden plugs tied around the sink, head discharge, head intake through hulls...and thats all i have but the head thru hulls are getting filled in next time in the yard .
Hey Robert! For the flush itself, the motor can be up. Making sure it's tilted down becomes of importance when and where freeze damage is a possibility. In this case, it's imperative to have the motor tilted down all the way so it drains 100 percent.
I am confused too about the flush port. My Mercury 4 stroke has this port and I thought that to start the engine while not in the water that it is okay to run water through it....can someone clarify? I can understand using the port to just flush the engine after use, but what about just running water through it to start the engine periodically?
Thanks for the question, Jackalcat. Without knowing the model engine you have, I can't comment specifically. The best advice is to read your owner's manual for the manufacturer recommendations. If you don't have a copy, you can usually find one easily online.
I still like two cycle engines more than four cycle. Actually, I wish they’d make an electric outboard! Forget HP, it just needs to push a 21’ bass boat up to 80 mph easily and go more than a full pro fisherman’s day on a charge! No oil, gasoline, etc! Just a heap of batteries I reckon.
Stay tuned for the April/May issue of BoatUS Magazine. We have a big feature coming up on electric boats and propulsion. We look at the technology itself, what's already on the market, and what's coming down the channel. Not sure you're going to get 80 hp equivalent, but there are changes in technology that may allow for longer trips. And there are also some hybrid options (think Toyota Prius) out there.
Mobil one actually has really garbage shear resistance. I find it funny how the average Joe thinks mobil one is some god tier oil when it isn't. Nobody I know uses mobil one in anything they actually care about.
@@potatoe4221 In cars and motorcycles Amsoil is far superior to Mobile1 and if you buy it online and get over like 100 bucks worth you get a discount that makes it cost about the same as Mobile1.
The worse mistake I made on my new OMC 250 hp, 2 cycle was to think that the automatic oil injector was actually injecting enough oil into the cylinders so that it wouldn't blow up 29 miles out in the Gulf two weeks after the warranty expired. Fooled me!
I don't have actual statistics to share, but those auto mixing VRO systems had horrible reputations around here. Most people I knew disabled them and went back to premix to prevent oil related failures (from lack of oil).
Commenters have already raked this poor guy over the coals but I have something more. Don't use a deck brush to clean your outboard motor housing? Who in the world would ever do that anyway? I use the same soft bristle brush with soapy water that I use on the rest of the boat. It's all fiberglass. You don't need a microfiber cloth for gosh sake -- clean it and wax it like you do the rest of your boat. But a deck brush? Please!
Point taken, but you'd be surprised how many people just use the deck brush on their outboards while they're scrubbing away. If they didn't, we wouldn't have to say it!
Absolutely, Gus. We always recommend following manufacturer recommendations first. This video was not meant to be all-encompassing but a reminder of common mistakes folks make with their outboards.
Read you outboard manual Mr know it all. My Honda 4 stroke manual recommends running the engine during flushing to clean the water-pump and circulate clean water thoroughly throughout out the engine block. Keeping it at idle never racing the engine and monitor temperature. Had Force, Honda's, Mercury and Yamaha's all different procedures. If you can afford a big boat and twin outboards you can afford to take it to a dealer to undertake full maintenance and service
Thanks for your comments. While flushing the majority of outboards use similar procedures, each manufacturer may have their own specific requirements. Most small Honda outboards (5 to 50 hp) require the engine to be run during flushing and most large ones don’t (usually 60 hp and over). Check your manual to be sure.
Had 150 Honda same procure with muffs got to get through pump and full cooling system. Had a 40 Honda too has the put the tape over inlet procedure too.
Understood, I have a 200 V max and always use the flush port with engine running. This use to be in the manual . All manufacturers removed it because owners were doing it incorrectly, IE revving up etc. To each their own, but I have done this for years and have a flawless maintenance replace issue every 2 years. Start flush water to have all water ports flowing, start motor, never idle up/rev up, let engine warm and run for 15ish minutes. Its all about keeping the water pump veins wet (lubricated) as to no ruin impeller. Maybe OK to flush as soon as you return to port without starting engine, but you have to warm up engine to open thermostats, if not thermostats will corrode closed and overheat engine.
I would add this one tip: let it run long enough for the thermostat to open, for years I flushed it and did not leave the needed time for it to come up to normal temperature. As a side "My know it all" isn't quite fair Martman, he never said he was a know it all, and seems a pretty good guy, to me. Just sayin.
Stay tuned, Newt! We've got a video coming up in the next couple months on how to perform an outboard compression test that should cover this topic enough to get you started. If you haven't already done so, be sure to subscribe to our RUclips channel to receive notifications when new videos are posted.
That boat is a good boat, but though it is very convenient to put the outboard on the extreme outer side of the transom, this would increase the inertia of the boat about the centre line and it could roll unnecessarily. With a deep Vee, the props would emerge out of the water on turning. I do prefer outboards to be nearer the centre line for many reasons. One has to weigh convenience with efficiency I guess. To be efficient is not always the best way to take, I guess.
Thanks for your comment, Carmel, and you'd probably be correct in most cases. However, while it's hard to see in this video, Lenny's boat is a fishing catamaran. That's why the outboards are placed as they are. Thanks for watching, and please subscribe to our channel to get notification of our new videos each week!
Get real Matt I've got a 150 mercury 2018 4 stroke beats all other outboard motors 1, bigger alternator 60 amp 2, 25 kg lighter 3,,, roller rockers (never to be adjusted) 4,, smart system start any way just do your homework and compare and read up on your motor of choice pays to know what your buying considering its 20,000 dollar investment Oh I got 5 year warranty too
.weighs too much for my 24ft full keeled sailboat...i have an 8 horse mercury that i start about every month or so ti run for a few minutes but its an auxillary, and I have a primary means of propulsion which i prefer
1st Outboard motor mistake: Buying a Mercury. 2nd mistake: replacing your P.O.S. Mercury with a P.O.S Evinrude E-TEC. 3rd mistake: Not buying a Honda or a Yamaha or a Suzuki. 4th mistake, expecting me to respond to your angry reply. I have 30 years in the business having worked world wide: South Seas, Asia, Europe, Latin America, Canada and Alaska so unless you have more experience with outboard motors than that, and have some tidbit that's going to blow my mind, please save your breath. Mercury's 1.3 star Consumer Affairs rating was earned. Just pull the cover on an Evinrude E-TEC and look at all of the clunky, poorly integrated, bolt-on garbage they came up with to make it work and then do the same on a Japanese engine. SEE THE DIFFERENCE?
Sorry but I don't completely agree with these 3 so called mistakes, I can tell you 3 that's way more important than not using a brush and flushing the engine ( without water running )
Thanks for your feedback, Bruce. We're not saying that these are the MOST important mistakes. We're just saying they're three COMMON mistakes. Not flushing your outboard properly IS a big mistake--unless you have money to burn on repairs and new engines.
Per the Yamaha F150 manual recommended oil is “4-stroke motor oil, API SE, SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40” nowhere does it state that using a “Marine Grade” oil is recommended or required. This is just plain misleading, bad advice.
We always recommend following manufacturer recommendations for your specific engine. Our consumer protection department has many recorded cases on file where boat owners try to save a few bucks by using the wrong oil then when something goes wrong, the engine manufacturer denies the warranty claim. Bottom line: Read the manual and follow all recommendations to avoid voiding your warranty.
1:36 "The problem is they put automotive oil in there. Uh-uh, no way, don't do it! You have got to use dedicated outboard oil (while holding up Quicksilver brand oil)." sounds like you are pushing one type of oil over any other. At no point is it said "Make sure to check your manufacturers recommendations, but we recommend dedicated outboard oil because of the following reasons..." Really makes me wonder if this is baised information, and you guys are just paid shills spreading bunk science, like Quaker State did with their Slick 50 line of products back in the 90s.
About 15,000 NZD/10000 USD for a new 90 and $50,000 for the boat and mooring so can definitely have dealer warranty service and warranty oil. Some big outboards carry a free service for three years and a full service here is about $350. I bought a little 4 meter boat once with a 40 Honda and needed full service adjustment lubrication and tune cost $460 NZD. Replace new 40 four stroke $16,000 , second hand one year warranty $7500 NZD. No brainier use the dealer or at least recommended manual outboard grade oil or unless you can explain to the coastguard and worse of all the missus why you were missing and the boat needs a new motor.
You're right, it probably won't help much. But taking care of your outboards on the outside means that you're probably taking proper care of the internal maintenance as well, which means fewer breakdowns, longer life, and higher resale value should you decide to sell or upgrade your boat/engines.
The point in washing the outboard either internally or externally is to rinse off saltwater - and ive seen an engine thats never been rinsed in or out and it lasted 5 years and cost £12k - internally it was smashed to bits and covered in solidified salt! So yes wash/rinse it all after every trip and esp end of season, or that salt will literally eat your engine parts away til next season
bullshit i would love to see this guy tell mobil that there oil is no good for a marine engine i also have a 135 honda 4 stroke run the balls off of it not even a tick in the motors
BoatUS always recommends using the oil recommended by your boat or engine manufacturer. If your manual says to use marine outboard oil and you choose not to, you will most likely void your warranty.
Have fun voiding your warranty dave g. Outboard oil has much more zinc and phosphorous, which is less concentrated in automobiles because it screws up catalytic converters. Makes no sense to void your warranty and risk damaging or lowering the life of your engine just to save a couple bucks.
Completely agree on the fun boating part, T210. What's not fun is when you can't use your boat because your engine won't start. Or you and your family get stuck out on the water when the engine fails. We're trying to help keep boating fun with a few easy tips to help keep your engine working properly-when you most need it!
Marine grade oil? Use oil that meet the manufacture's API SEA spec and all will be well.
Agree with 2 of three comments but at the factory many manufacturers (Suzuki included) run the motors at idle with water supplied through the flush port
Thanks for the info, Sailfish. We always suggest following manufacturer recommendations.
Right on. You wouldn't outboard oil in your car engine....then why would you put automotive oil in your outboard? Outboard oil has different oil classifications, and has much higher levels of Zinc anti wear additive than automotive oils.
Thanks for watching, Christa! Yes, you are correct. While marine and automotive engines work similarly, marine engines encounter a lot of conditions that vehicles don't, thus the difference in oil formulas. Plus, using the oil recommended by the manufacturer helps ensure the motor is covered under warranty should something go wrong. But you'll always have folks who think they know better ... 🤷🏻♀️
The manual for my 2001 mercury four stroke 75 says to start and run the engine when using the flush port.
Thanks for watching, Hoss. We always recommend following manufacturer recommendations.
My 2013 four stroke 60 says to start it as well.
Man, my new Mercury 15hp says to start the engine while using the flush port !
I follow the dealer's recommendations where I bought my new outboard motor. Of course, it's a two stroke direct injection model which is a little different.
Mercury motors specifically state in the manual to run the engine at idle during the flush operation using the flush port to open the cooling bypasses.
We always recommend following the manufacturer recommendations for how to flush and how long.
That's what my Merc manual says also
I flush my yamahas while running every trip. The mechanics do it and recommend it. The engine must not run over idle and the water supply needs to be high pressure. Don't try flushing two engines at the same time.
@@three4one-grouper_fishing Thanks for your response. We always recommend following manufacturer recommendations for your specific engines, which it sounds like you do.
Where is the flush port on a new 4stroke 150 horsepower
New topic suggestion...….How do you fog a four stroke, fuel injected outboard to get it ready for storage when you don't have a removable fuel line with like a portable type gas tank?
Thanks for the suggestion, Bruce! We'll put it on our list of topics for consideration.
Question:
Do you have to flush the motor every time after use??
Great question! Yes, it's highly recommended to flush outboard engines with freshwater every time you use them. This is especially true if you boat in saltwater or brackish water. But even if you boat in freshwater, a flush after use will help clear out any silt you might pick up. Each motor is different, so consult your owners manual as to the recommended method and flush time.
Thanks much I apreciatte It the reply
@@boatus How long to run with a Ear Muff setup, is there a thermostat we have to wait to open before we stop flushing? Possibly another vid for the RIGHT way to do this type of flush?
@@BornAgainCynic0086 Hi Jeff. Ask and you shall receive: ruclips.net/video/NB77LPB8U8c/видео.html We just posted this video on outboard engine flushing a few weeks ago. The amount of time is generally the same, but consult your owner's manual for manufacturer recommendations.
ok I checked the service book on Suzuki and have a long answer --says 4 stroke motor oil
• NMMA FC-W classification:
SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM.
or API classification:
SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM.
• Viscosity rating:
NMMA FC-W 10W-40 or SAE 10W-40
the word 4 stroke is to make sure you dont use it as 2stroke oil no need to buy special oil saying boat oil
here is some more info clipped from web
RAY: No, you don't need to be concerned, Dave. The letter combinations are performance ratings from the American Petroleum Institute, or API. When your van was manufactured, the top-of-the-line motor oil was rated SG, so that's what Ford called for.
TOM: Well, since then, oils have continued to improve. They now last longer, lubricate better and hold more contaminants in suspension. And as oils have gotten better, they've been given higher designations. SH replaced SG in the top spot. Then came SI, SJ, SK and SL.
RAY: And now the best-performing oil is SM.
TOM: So, since your vehicle calls for SG or better, your engine can run on anything from SG through SM.
RAY: By the way, oil designations that start with the letter S are for gasoline engines, and those that start with C are for diesel engines
Not sure which outboard you have, but I just pulled a selection of Suzuki 4-stroke owners manuals from the manufacturer's website, and all specify using MARINE oil around page 6 or 7. If you respond with your specific engine model, I would be happy to look that one up to confirm. Also, while interesting (my weekends are incomplete without "Car Talk") and a good explanation of what the oil classifications mean, I'm a bit slow on the point you're trying to make with the latter comment. Can you explain? (Maybe I just need a bit more caffeine this morning?)
I visited the Suzuki and found a two page sample page owner manuals with no reference of oil . I looked up by my own 2003 and 2013 owner and service book and came with the same result as earlier . service book supersedes marketing books or Suzuki's web site as it is designed by marketing and not checked fully for errors since it is not a technical book and some web designer may added or delete information on the Suzuki engine. If you post a link I have Suzuki to correct their web site .. this is the link I found www.genuinesuzukimanuals.com/samples/sm.pdf
Go to www.genuinesuzukimanuals.com. I'm talking original owners manuals here, not marketing materials. At the top of the page, select "marine" from the dropdown menu, then choose your engine. (You'll need the model, prefix, and engine number from the plate.) If it has a "download PDF" next to it, click on that for a free PDF download of the manual. Otherwise, it is probably worth the $20 to purchase it. (And even better, if you've got an extra $90 and you do any of your own work on your engine, download the service manual. This is the actual manual the techs use for servicing.) FWIW, EVERY PDF I downloaded (and I downloaded several) recommends using Suzuki MARINE engine oil. I'd be happy to email you a copy of the PDF and/or screen shots.
I think the number one maintenance issue is not using a professional mechanic. I would never own a boat that I could also use as a poling platform for example. There is no such thing as a "mechanically sound engine" nor a warranty that can't be voided. "It's better to be the driver than the Trucking Company" by way of example and in fact I rarely see boats period these days which is why I love boating..
Thanks, Andrew! Some good points here. Hiring a good mechanic is critical to keep things running well (and warranties valid). That said, aBoatU.S. towing membership is a cost-effective backup for when things do happen.
Topic suggestion:buying an older boat and putting a newer outboard on it. Costs vs Benefits
Good one! We'll put it on our list for consideration.
That's what I did, but here is one worry. My older boat was not built for the weight of the new four stroke engines, so I needed to plan that carefully. I ended up with a Yamaha 115 4 stroke, though I really wanted the 150, but as is, the 115 is a bit too heavy and give me a bow high attitude, unlike the weight of the original 2 stroke powered engine that was on there. Now I'm moving the batteries forward, and getting a dolphin for the cavitation plate to bring the nose down a bit
Jmichael Isbell thank you very much for the response and information!
Here is one more--FAR more important issue I ran into. One that is way too often overlooked. On boats of a certain age, they did not have, as a legal requirement a true "sea cock" in place. That device has a 45 degree shut off valve for the water inlets into your boat--like your bait tank. Newer boats come built with it. My older hull did not have it, so I put one in. Hardest to reach job I ever did. But see, imagine as an analogy if your water main bursts at your home--what do you do? You run outside and shut off the main, right? Same deal here, if a hose breaks or pops off and your boat starts filling with water--you have minutes, maybe seconds to "shut off the main" and that's why by law, new boats have this. Many boaters have their boats sink out from under them because their tiny bilge pumps can't come close to keeping up with a true, catastrophic failure of one of the thru full fittings. Especially consider you may have family--kids, on that thing, so I figure we have a responsibility to have the thru hulls iron clad. Do it yourself or hire it--but get it done, for sure. Even expensive yachts sink ALL THE TIME, with that as the main cause. The biggest thru hull of all? When you have an inboard power and an engine shaft that sticks through the bottom of the boat, with a big rubber gasket to protect that seal. Imagine the engine running-maybe a bit out of time; the vibration is constant and after that gasket gets brittle--and it will, all of the sudden "the boat is filling with water"--and down you go to the old place, as old seamen used to say.
@@jimquantic thats why I have an outboard on my full keel sailboat...I keep appropriate sized wooden plugs tied around the sink, head discharge, head intake through hulls...and thats all i have but the head thru hulls are getting filled in next time in the yard
.
Any thoughts about the smart system
Hey Robert! Thanks for the question. Can you elaborate on what you mean by "smart system"? Like remote vessel monitoring?
I have always been told to flush the motors trimmed all the way down...?
Hey Robert! For the flush itself, the motor can be up. Making sure it's tilted down becomes of importance when and where freeze damage is a possibility. In this case, it's imperative to have the motor tilted down all the way so it drains 100 percent.
I am confused too about the flush port. My Mercury 4 stroke has this port and I thought that to start the engine while not in the water that it is okay to run water through it....can someone clarify? I can understand using the port to just flush the engine after use, but what about just running water through it to start the engine periodically?
Thanks for the question, Jackalcat. Without knowing the model engine you have, I can't comment specifically. The best advice is to read your owner's manual for the manufacturer recommendations. If you don't have a copy, you can usually find one easily online.
Thanks. I will get the owners manual then. The previous owner did not have it...weird, but that is the case!
I still like two cycle engines more than four cycle. Actually, I wish they’d make an electric outboard! Forget HP, it just needs to push a 21’ bass boat up to 80 mph easily and go more than a full pro fisherman’s day on a charge! No oil, gasoline, etc! Just a heap of batteries I reckon.
Stay tuned for the April/May issue of BoatUS Magazine. We have a big feature coming up on electric boats and propulsion. We look at the technology itself, what's already on the market, and what's coming down the channel. Not sure you're going to get 80 hp equivalent, but there are changes in technology that may allow for longer trips. And there are also some hybrid options (think Toyota Prius) out there.
Automotive oil have rust inhibitors and additives for sheer strength. You just need to know what you're buying
Follow the manufacturer recommendations f you want to maintain your warranty.
I run mobil 1 automotive oil in my honda
Brandon Murphy , yup guy was fullbof it with that.
Mobil one actually has really garbage shear resistance. I find it funny how the average Joe thinks mobil one is some god tier oil when it isn't. Nobody I know uses mobil one in anything they actually care about.
@@potatoe4221 In cars and motorcycles Amsoil is far superior to Mobile1 and if you buy it online and get over like 100 bucks worth you get a discount that makes it cost about the same as Mobile1.
The worse mistake I made on my new OMC 250 hp, 2 cycle was to think that the automatic oil injector was actually injecting enough oil into the cylinders so that it wouldn't blow up 29 miles out in the Gulf two weeks after the warranty expired. Fooled me!
OH NO!! What a disaster!
I don't have actual statistics to share, but those auto mixing VRO systems had horrible reputations around here. Most people I knew disabled them and went back to premix to prevent oil related failures (from lack of oil).
Commenters have already raked this poor guy over the coals but I have something more. Don't use a deck brush to clean your outboard motor housing? Who in the world would ever do that anyway? I use the same soft bristle brush with soapy water that I use on the rest of the boat. It's all fiberglass. You don't need a microfiber cloth for gosh sake -- clean it and wax it like you do the rest of your boat. But a deck brush? Please!
Point taken, but you'd be surprised how many people just use the deck brush on their outboards while they're scrubbing away. If they didn't, we wouldn't have to say it!
Mistake #4. Don't wipe your ass with Poison Ivy.
Sorry Bud, but when it comes to maintenance and lubricants I am following my engine manufacturers owners manual not some generalized video.
Absolutely, Gus. We always recommend following manufacturer recommendations first. This video was not meant to be all-encompassing but a reminder of common mistakes folks make with their outboards.
Read you outboard manual Mr know it all. My Honda 4 stroke manual recommends running the engine during flushing to clean the water-pump and circulate clean water thoroughly throughout out the engine block. Keeping it at idle never racing the engine and monitor temperature. Had Force, Honda's, Mercury and Yamaha's all different procedures. If you can afford a big boat and twin outboards you can afford to take it to a dealer to undertake full maintenance and service
Thanks for your comments. While flushing the majority of outboards use similar procedures, each manufacturer may have their own specific requirements. Most small Honda outboards (5 to 50 hp) require the engine to be run during flushing and most large ones don’t (usually 60 hp and over). Check your manual to be sure.
Had 150 Honda same procure with muffs got to get through pump and full cooling system. Had a 40 Honda too has the put the tape over inlet procedure too.
Understood, I have a 200 V max and always use the flush port with engine running. This use to be in the manual . All manufacturers removed it because owners were doing it incorrectly, IE revving up etc. To each their own, but I have done this for years and have a flawless maintenance replace issue every 2 years. Start flush water to have all water ports flowing, start motor, never idle up/rev up, let engine warm and run for 15ish minutes. Its all about keeping the water pump veins wet (lubricated) as to no ruin impeller. Maybe OK to flush as soon as you return to port without starting engine, but you have to warm up engine to open thermostats, if not thermostats will corrode closed and overheat engine.
I would add this one tip: let it run long enough for the thermostat to open, for years I flushed it and did not leave the needed time for it to come up to normal temperature. As a side "My know it all" isn't quite fair Martman, he never said he was a know it all, and seems a pretty good guy, to me. Just sayin.
lpfdemt r
locating of spark plugs and how to change them
Stay tuned, Newt! We've got a video coming up in the next couple months on how to perform an outboard compression test that should cover this topic enough to get you started. If you haven't already done so, be sure to subscribe to our RUclips channel to receive notifications when new videos are posted.
i found them
Awesome to hear!
That boat is a good boat, but though it is very convenient to put the outboard on the extreme outer side of the transom, this would increase the inertia of the boat about the centre line and it could roll unnecessarily. With a deep Vee, the props would emerge out of the water on turning. I do prefer outboards to be nearer the centre line for many reasons. One has to weigh convenience with efficiency I guess. To be efficient is not always the best way to take, I guess.
Thanks for your comment, Carmel, and you'd probably be correct in most cases. However, while it's hard to see in this video, Lenny's boat is a fishing catamaran. That's why the outboards are placed as they are. Thanks for watching, and please subscribe to our channel to get notification of our new videos each week!
Carmel, in case you're not familiar with Lenny's style of boat, you can get a better look here: ruclips.net/video/XuqjOK_MlEA/видео.html
I love my suzuki i treat it almost better than my old lady lol
Now, now, fishin fool ... remember: happy wife, happy life!
It deserves better 😉
Why am I here I don’t even own a boat lol
We're flattered! Maybe there's a boat in your future? ;-) Thanks for watching.
work on; owning a life?
Get real Matt I've got a 150 mercury 2018 4 stroke beats all other outboard motors 1, bigger alternator 60 amp 2, 25 kg lighter 3,,, roller rockers (never to be adjusted) 4,, smart system start any way just do your homework and compare and read up on your motor of choice pays to know what your buying considering its 20,000 dollar investment Oh I got 5 year warranty too
.weighs too much for my 24ft full keeled sailboat...i have an 8 horse mercury that i start about every month or so ti run for a few minutes but its an auxillary, and I have a primary means of propulsion which i prefer
1st Outboard motor mistake: Buying a Mercury. 2nd mistake: replacing your P.O.S. Mercury with a P.O.S Evinrude E-TEC.
3rd mistake: Not buying a Honda or a Yamaha or a Suzuki. 4th mistake, expecting me to respond to your angry reply. I have 30 years in the business having worked world wide: South Seas, Asia, Europe, Latin America, Canada and Alaska so unless you have more experience with outboard motors than that, and have some tidbit that's going to blow my mind, please save your breath. Mercury's 1.3 star Consumer Affairs rating was earned. Just pull the cover on an Evinrude E-TEC and look at all of the clunky, poorly integrated, bolt-on garbage they came up with to make it work and then do the same on a Japanese engine. SEE THE DIFFERENCE?
What about the old evinrudes and mercuries?
What city in japan you from? I would take a set of oars over your choices.
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Yamaha all day everyday! Reliability when I am out in the Gulf means everything to me!
@@Steelviper61 yeah yamaha honda and suzuki are the most reliable
Sorry but I don't completely agree with these 3 so called mistakes, I can tell you 3 that's way more important than not using a brush and flushing the engine ( without water running )
Thanks for your feedback, Bruce. We're not saying that these are the MOST important mistakes. We're just saying they're three COMMON mistakes. Not flushing your outboard properly IS a big mistake--unless you have money to burn on repairs and new engines.
Per the Yamaha F150 manual recommended oil is “4-stroke motor oil, API SE, SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL
SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40” nowhere does it state that using a “Marine Grade” oil is recommended or required. This is just plain misleading, bad advice.
We always recommend following manufacturer recommendations for your specific engine. Our consumer protection department has many recorded cases on file where boat owners try to save a few bucks by using the wrong oil then when something goes wrong, the engine manufacturer denies the warranty claim. Bottom line: Read the manual and follow all recommendations to avoid voiding your warranty.
1:36 "The problem is they put automotive oil in there. Uh-uh, no way, don't do it! You have got to use dedicated outboard oil (while holding up Quicksilver brand oil)." sounds like you are pushing one type of oil over any other. At no point is it said "Make sure to check your manufacturers recommendations, but we recommend dedicated outboard oil because of the following reasons..." Really makes me wonder if this is baised information, and you guys are just paid shills spreading bunk science, like Quaker State did with their Slick 50 line of products back in the 90s.
About 15,000 NZD/10000 USD for a new 90 and $50,000 for the boat and mooring so can definitely have dealer warranty service and warranty oil. Some big outboards carry a free service for three years and a full service here is about $350. I bought a little 4 meter boat once with a 40 Honda and needed full service adjustment lubrication and tune cost $460 NZD. Replace new 40 four stroke $16,000 , second hand one year warranty $7500 NZD. No brainier use the dealer or at least recommended manual outboard grade oil or unless you can explain to the coastguard and worse of all the missus why you were missing and the boat needs a new motor.
It's rigid so that Yamaha will get money from a person that uses the wrong oil and ruins a part or two
BoatUS , and ignore know nothing youtube videos.
washing your out board motor wont make it run better der
You're right, it probably won't help much. But taking care of your outboards on the outside means that you're probably taking proper care of the internal maintenance as well, which means fewer breakdowns, longer life, and higher resale value should you decide to sell or upgrade your boat/engines.
The point in washing the outboard either internally or externally is to rinse off saltwater - and ive seen an engine thats never been rinsed in or out and it lasted 5 years and cost £12k - internally it was smashed to bits and covered in solidified salt! So yes wash/rinse it all after every trip and esp end of season, or that salt will literally eat your engine parts away til next season
bullshit i would love to see this guy tell mobil that there oil is no good for a marine engine i also have a 135 honda 4 stroke run the balls off of it not even a tick in the motors
Seriously? How stupid do they think people are..? OTOH....
We prefer to think of it as educating the next generation of boaters.
Outboard motor oil , that’s a joke and I know better
BoatUS always recommends using the oil recommended by your boat or engine manufacturer. If your manual says to use marine outboard oil and you choose not to, you will most likely void your warranty.
BoatUS go talk to a chemical engineer who specializes in oil , Still crap info
Have fun voiding your warranty dave g.
Outboard oil has much more zinc and phosphorous, which is less concentrated in automobiles because it screws up catalytic converters. Makes no sense to void your warranty and risk damaging or lowering the life of your engine just to save a couple bucks.
sawmaster 609 x
If it EXCEEDS recommendation from manufacturers... enough said
A rather negative presentation. Boating should be fun...
Completely agree on the fun boating part, T210. What's not fun is when you can't use your boat because your engine won't start. Or you and your family get stuck out on the water when the engine fails. We're trying to help keep boating fun with a few easy tips to help keep your engine working properly-when you most need it!
Boating should be fun, a broke down boat bobbing in the water waiting for a tow is not fun and neither is the repair bill.