This video helped immensely. Beginner landscape photographer and I could not decide on wehther or not to get a 10-stop filter or a set of smaller ones, the second option of course being a lot more expensive than just getting the one filter. Impressed by the versatility of a 10-stop filter and I'm no longer concerned with it being too dark. Subscribed!
Having almost a year behind the camera (previous camera time voided, due to ONLY knowing & using Automatic mode!😂) , I am CONSTANTLY reading, watching tutorials, note-taking, and practicing in the field! Learning and experimenting with The III Key Elements and each function & relationship to each other has helped TREMENDOUSLY! I quite enjoyed THIS tutorial, ESPECIALLY the various conditions in which to use the ND filters! Thus month I was able to compose and shoot pretty decent pictures w/my series of filters and I 🖤 the end results!! I am happy to be your NEWEST SUBSCRIBER! This was a perfectly detailed video and the portions that sold me were: your dislike for gross post-editing, PROPERLY composing the shots for extra drama and base settings' specifics! I'm looking forward to watching all of your material (starting from oldest-forward) studying and applying the knowledge in the field. Thank you for sharing your Knowledge!
Thank you the very kind comments. It’s always nice to hear from people that the information provided has helped them. I prefer to give people the information they need. I remember when I first started the complete misinformation I was provided etc and it was forever a frustration. More tutorials and adventures are planned. You’ll soon be seeing 2 parts of a vlog from the Patagonian fjords, Norway and a tutorial on composition.
@@JulianElliottPhotography Thank you so Much for taking time out to respond and I am really looking forward to your upcoming tutorials! Over the past few weeks I have been composing super dramatic shots with my ND filters and becoming more comfortable as I learn to use them in the CORRECT shooting environments! Your Personal experience and willingness to share your knowledge wealth has saved me a HEAVIER load of frustration from watching other videos; Thank You! 👍
Beside the fact Missus chucking the phone out of the window is a regular occurrence in my household, I'm glad to see someone else ditching the app and doing the calculation manually. Thanks for the wonderful tutorial!
Jesus christ, as a proper novice to the craft after watching some random RUclips nd filter videos you are severely surgical. I mean that as a compliment, you know your onions
Hi Chris! Not sure why it's never told to people. It's a very basic thing. I guess with things such as Live View people are not going back to the very basics and using the tools in their camera.
Thank you so much for this video, I finally understood how the ND filter works. I bought a pack with ND2-8 filters, was getting frustrated why my exposures over 1min was turning out all white.. I needed a ND1000 which is actually a 10 stop.
Thanks for that. Very helpful, also for the aesthetic comments. Yes, I'm with the less streaky clouds and the less blissed out water too. Good to have a further point of view from a well experienced photographer on my wavelength (as of present date?). Excellent!
Michael. Thank you so much for those kind comments! Yes, i'm not a fan of those overly streaky clouds. I think it's become at times an excuse to use the filter. There'll probably be another video on the filter at some point so keep an eye out :)
Latest tutorial as requested by a subscriber on How to use a Big Stopper or 10 stop ND filter. Three different scenarios as demonstrated and explained in relation to landscape photography. There of course a few other areas that you can use the filter in but I thought that I would concentrate on the most popular ones for now. As always, please do comment on what you see :)
Thanks for the comments. Only just come across them. Hope you're getting on good with that 5D. Be nice to be up on the west coast of Scotland right now.
Thanks Greg! There's a number of things I have planned just on "how to." There will also be a number of places where I'm out and about too so keep your eyes peeled :)
Thank you! The beach was one of the most difficult as it was the last one I had to do. And it started raining! Thankfully it stopped for long enough to get the vlog finished :)
Appreciate the feedback Keith! I try and teach how I would want to be taught. I find that all too often people gloss over things and leave those watching unable to follow the instruction.
139/5000 It's a pleasure to follow you, because I love the simple way you use to explain. From today I am your faithful follower. Thanks Julian Elliott.
Great info there Julian, I have got a circular Nisi 6 stop ND filter with a built in Polariser, If using this on water would you just focus and meter before adding the 6 stop/polariser? Thanks.
Very comprehensive and explanatory! You won a new "like and subscribe" You can tell me please the aperture used for the 3 images and the area where you did the manual focus? Thanks a lot! P.S. The brand of this shutter / remote control, I'm looking for one for my 6D and I can't find much ...
Hi Florin From memory I was using f11 which is what I use on most of my images. I usually focus a third of the way into the image and check for sharpness once it's been taken. I'l unsure of your home country but if you go to Amazon and type in cable release Canon 6D then you'll find lots of third party options. Hope that helps :)
Quick question, Julian: if I'm not planning on shooting Bulb (meaning, only 30 seconds or less), would I need a 10 stop filter? Would a Hoya ND500 be enough? What about night/star photography?
That depends Thelma. if it's the middle of the day you can still be adding a 10 stop filter and not be in need of the bulb setting. It all depends on what it is you're trying to achieve in your final shot. Night/ star photography doesn't require filtration. here you are looking at various shutter speeds and ISO depending on what you want to achieve.
Hello Julian, Congratulations in explaining so clearly your thought processes on how to use a Big Stopper for beginners. One or two questions for you. Will you be showing how you process your long exposure images? And... Did you use mirror lock - up? And Noise Reduction (NR) throughout the exposures. My grateful thanks to you and continued success in all your ventures. Regards, Allan Davies.
Thanks for that Allan! At some point I will show the processing and especially so as people are asking more and more. Did I use mirror lock-up? Nope, not in any of them. NR I was told a long time ago by a Canon rep that if you'e shooting in Raw it's pointless turning it on. It's only useful if shooting for jpeg. The 10 stop I used was the new Lee Filters IRND. Having used a Big Stopper in the past and experienced that blue colour cast I can tell you right now that the new IRND has NO colour cast on it :)
Excellent! Regarding the processing, that you may process. Just wondering when doing a long exposure image in Lightroom would you treat it any different from a normal exposure ???
Hi Allan! Not now because that Lee Filters IRND is neutral and doesn't require mucking around with the white balance to remove the blue colour cast that the Big Stopper had. The waterfall image was the very first image I made using the IRND 10 stop and I couldn't believe how neutral it was!
Absolutely! Just be aware that it doesn't come in a tin like the Big Stopper. It has quite a hard pouch that it comes in. Personally, I know I'll end up breaking it so got a tin to put it in :)
Good tips Julian. I'm out and about at waterfalls. I do like the way you set the final scene in your mind BEFORE taking the image. For example, setting your exposure on the shaded rock in the falls so it would be almost black wouldn't have been something I would've done. I have much to learn about getting that final image in my head prior to capturing the image. Good tips on the 10Stop filter!
It's very old school way of thinking Miguel. Live View in cameras such as Canon and also those mirrorless cameras have robbed new photographers of the mechanics of metering. It's always a good idea to get to grips with those old school techniques before we lose the knowledge!
Agreed. I actually learned about photography by collecting antique film cameras, mainly 35mm & medium format (sometimes repairing them). I now do both but more digital these days. However, film really made a difference in how I approach digital image taking by trying to remember many of the film era lessons. Thanks!
Robert, there is a small trick to remembering them. You'll see a pattern like this 1 second; 1/2 second; 1/4 second; 1/8 second etc then go longer and you'll see they match 1 sec; 2 second; 4 second; 8 second etc
Great tutorial vlog. I must admit that I prefer more cloud movement but it couldn't have been moving that fast in shot. Good to go through the ND Grad as well as ND big stopper combined. I noticed you never mentioned the polariser, is there a reason for not using it , especially with the water falls. Unless it was on and I never realized. Thanks for a great vlog. Subscribed.
Hi Gary. Missed your comments from way back when. From memory the shot using the cloud there was actually a really strong wind. It took forever to actually film that section. At this point I cannot remember if I had the polarizer on for the waterfall. Normally I would.
@@JulianElliottPhotography I struggle with calculating exposure correctly. You used the dark part behind the falls and your exposure without 10stop was spot on. I have used the brightest part of the water in the past, thinking I wouldn't get blown out highlights. My shadows are always too deep. I've tried metering for stone, thinking it would be a mid tone but the highlights blow. So how did it work using the darkest part, I didn't understand the calculation. I'd appreciate a little help with that. Thank you.
@@dianesnowflake how are you calculating the exposure in the first place? If I meter for the whites or darks then I normally minus off or add on two stops. So if you meter a very dark rock and it says that it's 1/15 when the meter is zero then I make it 1/60.
@@JulianElliottPhotography I use my light meter or spot meter in camera. I didn't realise you had to go up or down a stop from original metering. So that's why I've been struggling all this time. Crikey, it makes total sense now. Thank you.
re exposure for the fall it seems exposure for the shadows full stop, is this experience, flat lighting or is exposing for the highlights not a choice for technical reasons
You can go either way Gerry! Taking the exposure reading from the darks comes down to when I used to use a separate handheld spot meter. You can of course do the reverse and meter from the falls and open it up by stops to get what you're after :) When it comes down to it the beauty of digital is of course you can meter either one and choose which you feel works best for the scene in hand. You'll see that the landscape at Pilsdon Pen was done with matrix metering and so the method changes again!
Thanks a lot for quite informative video. I kindly appreciate if you could mention how metering of foreground and sky works on your camera. (Is any particular pre setting needed for that?) BTW I use 6D Mii.
@@JulianElliottPhotography ... The old Olympus had a fabulous spot metering that could add several measurements... I tend to avoid "matrix" metering for elaborate photography as I never know how it will calculate the exposure... (also problematic with grads). A good reading in the most important spot and a second in the most problematic spot, and then a bit of mental work figuring out how I want the final result will probably end in a good result...! Thanks for the video and keep the good work.
Hi. Sorry I missed this comment. No, the back button focus stops you using the shutter button for focusing. It’s not a replacement for the AF/ MF switch.
Is it possible to meter firstly without the filter and compose,then add the ND filter and expose to the light using the histogram. Rather than calculating number of stops?
Hi Antonio! of course. You need to put the camera in Bulb mode and use a cable release to activate the shutter. You'll have a way to hold the shutter button when using the release and then watch the display on the camera as it counts out the seconds. Does that help?
the final shot would have looked great in black and white but I guess this is a tutorial for another day. I personally like the streaky whites of long exposures in running water and the effect it has on the sea especially when it's calm. However, the reactions I get from people who do not know anything about photography and long exposures in particular, is that they think that I processed the hell out of them in photoshop and it drives me crazy. But this is the problem of the average viewer who only knows about selfies and not anything about photography!
Hi Marieta! It was a thought in my mind o do black and white but as it seems to be the default of a lot of people I kept it as colour. Long exposures are one of those areas that people either love or hate. I kind of tend to stay in the middle ground because it very much depends on how it's done. With water I prefer it to be not overly long as I want to show motion that is there. It does depend on the scene but if I had a preference I'd go for a seascape over a waterfall though :)
Julian Elliott Photography I agree with you, personal taste is very subjective. In fast running waterfalls you don't really need extremely long exposures . Even 2-3 seconds can be more than enough at times to achieve motion blur. The last time I was out shooting in the forest, the area was so dark under the canopy and even with my polarising filter I was getting 2-3 seconds of exposure which I thought it was all I needed really and didn't use my nd filter at all.
Exactly my own thoughts and I wholeheartedly agree with you! It's deceptive looking at the video but where the waterfall was you're quite sheltered and also covered by the trees canopy. Because of this the exposure was already elongated and once the 10 stop was added on it lengthened the exposure exponentially. Subtlety is absolutely key with this filter :)
Thank you for this tutorial! Do you need to take off the CPL when adding an ND filter? Can the CPL be used as a ND (turing to the right ) in some circumstances?
Hi Mariano. You can use any ND filter with a circular polariser and can use together or separately. They work in different ways. The polariser will lengthen your shot by 2 stops PLUS remove any glare from water or depending on the direction to the sun polarise the sky. Even if you don't turn the polariser it will still lengthen the exposure.
I got a doubt regarding the role of ND filter for sunrise landscapes. How do you decide which shutter speed you need for the blue hour and golden hour shots? And for seascapes on the sunrise. Please explain in detail. Thanks
For me the shutter speed is dictated by the light falling on the foreground. ND filter in sunrise landscapes. Do you mean grads? If so, yes people have their doubts because you can overdo it and it shows a lot. I personally use a lot of exposure blending between two exposures to try to recreate how I saw the scene as closely as I can.
@@JulianElliottPhotography thanks for the reply. Not grads.direct ND filter in seascapes before dawn to make the sea water silky and the clouds smooth. What steps to take for the dawn shoots? Some are using ND filters 10 stop / 6 stop to make water silky and smooth for seascape dawn shooting. How to manage this different light situations? Can I use exposure bracketing ?
@@ksnmurthy4476 this really comes down to the overall effect that you are wanting to achieve. For me I prefer to not go too long with the exposures in water otherwise it looks daft. You can do bracketing if you find the sky is blowing out but normally pre-daw, for example, you shouldn't need to.
What i find a little confusing is some shutter speed charts say you count up to 120 seconds or two minutes and some charts say 125 seconds like you also do.
Hi Simon. Sorry it took so long to respond. I am working on the theory that when you count the decreasing shutter speed that it mirrors the increasing speed.
Another great video Julian. I use Hitech Filters do you think they is much difference in Lee and Hitech?. Portland Bill, Kimmeridge are my favourite places
Paul Chambers honestly, I can’t yet give you a comment on whether Lee or Hitech are better. I have never compared the two and so it would be unfair to try. What I can tell you though is the new Lee Filters IRND is definitely neutral. The images captured during the vlog had no cast in them 😀
Paul Chambers thanks for that! I did see there is a guy over on Alamy posting up Lightroom videos. Be interesting to see if comments 🙂 I should make some time to catch up with you proper when I’m in Salisbury. Whenever that will be🤔
Paul Chambers it all depends on time. I was there a few weeks ago and should have said something but was to caught up trying to do the vlog. I’m possibly in Salisbury in a few weeks time but only for a couple of days. Even then time will be manic!!!
You are incredible sir! Your instructional videos is at a level that most "instructors" fail to reach. May I suggest a topic for a video: Your ND filter video is great but one thing I often hear people saying they do in practice is to stack a hard GND with a soft GND, usually to achieve 4,5,or 6 stops. I dont understand the technique and its application with even and un-even horizons. This is obviously a more advanced technique, but it seems to be a very important trick. Just a thought. Keep up the good work, thanks!
Hi PrivTrd! I have an inkling as to two different things that you're after there. One is possibly the use of two filters on the scene where you need two grads. The other is where you put in a grad normally but then put one in upside down to create a pseudo reverse grad. Will have a think of how I can fulfil this :)
I remain very interested in hearing more about this. I had no idea people were combining them in reverse, those types of tips are VERY useful because they can yield an effective way to capture difficult scenes and also to economize on the number of grads one has to purchase. I have yet to see a video on creative and clever ways to combine grads thought I would suggest it. On a side note, another quick question: With the Lee GNDs, is it possible to slide it down all the way and use it as an ND ?
Turning them in reverse is a technique that is out there if you look hard enough on the net. Lee Filters told me about it around 9 years or so ago. I "think" if memory serves the technique is described in their second book on filtration. As for using a grad as a ND filter. I've never done it but I guess if you pulled down a hard grad far enough then it would cover the entirety of the lens à la ND.
Thanks again! Great explanation thanks so much for taking the the time to get back to me, much appreciated. I am really looking forward to seeing many more of your great videos.
hello sir... m beganer and ineterested landscape , i have 80d and whcih lens should i buy for sharp images.. and also how to calculate exposure m really confuse on that .. do u have any video than plz teach step by step about metering on video thanks u vry much
Hi there! pretty much any lens will give you sharp images unless it's faulty in some way. Some lenses are sharper than others such as prime lenses rather than zoom lenses. Calculating exposure. It's not an exact tutorial but if you find my video on using graduated filters you'll see how I meter. This should help you along :)
@@JulianElliottPhotography thanks for u r reply sir...i have kit lens 18 55 lens n thinking which to buy for best images for landscape. m not getting on metering background n forground using nd filter so plz requestiing to make video about metering back ground n forground n how to set exposure on camera thanks
Hi Julian if I set my camera and auto focus my scene in this case f11 at 1/6 then change to manual mode fit a 8stop it calculates to 42sec but I'm getting a very over exposed picture am I doing this wrong
Hi Peter. Sorry for not responding earlier. Firstly, I have to say I haven’t heard of an 8 stop filter. However, by my calculations around 30 seconds should do it.
Hi Ashley. Sorry for not responding earlier. Always in manual mode for me👍 things such as live view and mirror less cameras have taken away some of the techniques used.
Hi there! Just seen that I haven't responded to your comment on my tutorial. So firstly, apologies for that. I don't have a 15 stop ND filter and honestly I'm not sure that I would have much use for it. You should be able to take the principles that I demonstrate during the video and apply them to the other ND filters to help you.
@@Hrshsngh_19 well, when I can pull my finger out there is a vlog from Norway that I filmed in February. I haven't filmed any vlogs since then as I haven't yet had the time. But there are some in the pipeline. You doing OK in India? I hear it's pretty locked down over there!
Lauren Siemens by camera remote do you mean a wireless remote? If so, I haven’t ever used one so couldn’t say but if it can trigger the shutter and keep it closed during a long exposure then yes.
Hi James. Sorry I didn't reply earlier as I've been traveling. Honestly, I've never used a variable ND filter so couldn't give you an opinion either way as to which is better. I have heard of some variable ND filters having some issues but can't remember the exact nature of what they were. I suspect though that if you do go for a variable ND it would be very wise to buy the absolute best that you can. In regards to lee Filters it is a far wiser investment to go for the IRND filters as they are neutral.
@@jamesarmstrong6593 no problem! I'd prefer to be honest and upfront on my use of filters :) As I said, I know with at least some variable filters I've heard of a particular issue but can't remember what it was. And thanks on liking the videos! You should see some adventures from Mongolia very soon as well as from up in Scotland.
I’ve never had a dog eat my phone, or my wife throw it out of the window. But if that happens, I just set my camera up at something an use trial and error. FFS I’ve taken an hour or whatever to get there. Take the picture check the results. This is digital photography
Yes but there are people who would like to know how to use the filter and how to correctly expose an image without mucking around. It maybe digital photography but if mess up the exposure then no amount of Lightroom or Photoshop will fix it.
Hi Jay. It could very much be that the filter is creating a vignette which is why you are seeing the edges. For example if I use my Canon 17-40mm and the polarizer that I have then you can see the corners at around 17mm on a full frame camera. However, start going beyond 24mm and they disappear. It would be worth trying different focal lengths to see where the issue arises.
Thank you very much for the response! Actually, the darkening around the edges is seen ONLY when i use extremely long exposures, upwards of two minutes or so, while using a wide angle lens. it doesn't occur when using a 300mm. its a slight shading around the perimeter of the photo, but different from the darkening thats caused by a screw in filter. I understand what you are referring to, I see it all the time when I use a polarizer on my 10-18. this is different. a different "form" if you will. and it can NOT be seen through the view-finder, no matter what focal length i use. it happens on both of my wide angle lenses. 10-18 and 18-55. ive read about it here or there on the web, but cant seem to find a firm solution to it.
Hi Jay! I'm not sure either. The only thing that springs to mind is that at shorter exposures the darkening is there but you're not really seeing it but then as soon as you elongate said exposure then it becomes more pronounce. I've had a search this morning to see if I can find an answer and like you there seems to be scant information about it.
Hi there. My honest advice is that I am currently only able to comment on the Lee Filters range as that is what I use. There are a number of manufacturers out there that have great reputations from Nisi to Breakthrough and beyond. Ideally, you want one that is as neutral as you can get. The new Lee Filters one is expensive but definitely neutral. It was born from the use in the film and TV industry and so has to be. How much do you spend? It can be hard but ideally, if you know there is a quality product there just wait and get it. It's better to buy something that you know works and will give you what you want than to buy cheap and work your way up. By doing that you'd probably be spending what it costs for one of the more expensive ones.
Calculating the exposure...why? You are shooting with remote controle.....you have a timer on your remote....just take several shots if you know which aperture to use.....
Hi Dan. Yes, I feel your pain on the price. But there is a noticeable difference between the original Big Stopper and the IRND filter. There are people out there who are prepared to pay.
Yes, it's always a balance. One sequence got edited out of this so it could have been even longer. However, I do try and give people all the info they need and at times it takes time.
This video helped immensely. Beginner landscape photographer and I could not decide on wehther or not to get a 10-stop filter or a set of smaller ones, the second option of course being a lot more expensive than just getting the one filter. Impressed by the versatility of a 10-stop filter and I'm no longer concerned with it being too dark. Subscribed!
Thank you for that and the subscription!
Having almost a year behind the camera (previous camera time voided, due to ONLY knowing & using Automatic mode!😂) , I am CONSTANTLY reading, watching tutorials, note-taking, and practicing in the field!
Learning and experimenting with The III Key Elements and each function & relationship to each other has helped TREMENDOUSLY!
I quite enjoyed THIS tutorial, ESPECIALLY the various conditions in which to use the ND filters! Thus month I was able to compose and shoot pretty decent pictures w/my series of filters and I 🖤 the end results!!
I am happy to be your NEWEST SUBSCRIBER! This was a perfectly detailed video and the portions that sold me were: your dislike for gross post-editing, PROPERLY composing the shots for extra drama and base settings' specifics!
I'm looking forward to watching all of your material (starting from oldest-forward) studying and applying the knowledge in the field.
Thank you for sharing your Knowledge!
Thank you the very kind comments. It’s always nice to hear from people that the information provided has helped them.
I prefer to give people the information they need. I remember when I first started the complete misinformation I was provided etc and it was forever a frustration.
More tutorials and adventures are planned. You’ll soon be seeing 2 parts of a vlog from the Patagonian fjords, Norway and a tutorial on composition.
@@JulianElliottPhotography Thank you so Much for taking time out to respond and I am really looking forward to your upcoming tutorials! Over the past few weeks I have been composing super dramatic shots with my ND filters and becoming more comfortable as I learn to use them in the CORRECT shooting environments! Your Personal experience and willingness to share your knowledge wealth has saved me a HEAVIER load of frustration from watching other videos; Thank You! 👍
Thanks Julian - I'm getting my first 10-stop filter tomorrow and after watching your tutorial I feel more confident to go use it properly.
Eugene Braack no problems. If you get stuck send a reply and I’ll try and help🙂
Beside the fact Missus chucking the phone out of the window is a regular occurrence in my household, I'm glad to see someone else ditching the app and doing the calculation manually. Thanks for the wonderful tutorial!
Thanks for that! Yes, doing it manually is becoming a lost art as people rely on technology!
Very nice !!!
I do appreciate when a professional shares tips and tricks. Everything is nicely explained to the last bit . Big tumb up 👍
No problems. I share because I feel it only right to do so.
Jesus christ, as a proper novice to the craft after watching some random RUclips nd filter videos you are severely surgical. I mean that as a compliment, you know your onions
Thank you. I started photography before mirrorless cameras so have the background experience of using a light meter which helps a lot.
Great video, you are the first to advise on the black mid-tones and how to adjust for them. Many thanks.
Hi Chris! Not sure why it's never told to people. It's a very basic thing. I guess with things such as Live View people are not going back to the very basics and using the tools in their camera.
The way you introduced yourself ❤️ God bless you brother best video
Thanks for the tutorial and teaching how to calculate which grad filter to use.
Hi Fred. Absolutely no problems at all! It's a skill that seems to be disappearing which is a shame.
That’s a fantastic tutorial. Totally engaging and educative content.thankful for this wonderful video posting. Gr8
No problems at all. Happy to help and glad that it was of use.
Thank you for sharing!
No problems at all! Hope it was informative.
Thank you so much for this video, I finally understood how the ND filter works. I bought a pack with ND2-8 filters, was getting frustrated why my exposures over 1min was turning out all white.. I needed a ND1000 which is actually a 10 stop.
Great to hear! I too used to struggle with these things so strive to help people where I can :)
Thank you, Julian. And looking forward to the future 10-stop videos.
No problems at all! Wondering whether to go to the Atlantic coastline of a France at some point. Might use it there.
Venford Falls, lovely place once you find it, thanks for the video.
And there are the keywords...once you find it ;)
Thank you for this tutorial. I like how you walked through all of the steps
Very nice Julian thanks for the detail explanation
No problems Anthony. I try and give as much as I can so people can truly learn the techniques.
Fantastic tutorial! Thank you! I like to photograf landscapes and resendly discoverd ND filterns. This tutorial helps!
Thanks for the comment! Glad the video was of use to you.
Thanks for another one of a clear and easy to follow tutorial.
And thanks for taking the time to comment. very appreciated :)
Excellent video on how to use a 10 stop NDF, thank you. Results were great.
Thanks Ross! There will probably a part two to using this filter so keep an eye out :)
Will do.
Though I know how to calculate ND exposure times my use of ND grads is usually guess work, you're explanation is excellent👍
Appreciate that Eltin! Glad you found it of use.
Thank you. Very helpful.
Thanks for that. Very helpful, also for the aesthetic comments. Yes, I'm with the less streaky clouds and the less blissed out water too. Good to have a further point of view from a well experienced photographer on my wavelength (as of present date?). Excellent!
Michael. Thank you so much for those kind comments! Yes, i'm not a fan of those overly streaky clouds. I think it's become at times an excuse to use the filter.
There'll probably be another video on the filter at some point so keep an eye out :)
Latest tutorial as requested by a subscriber on How to use a Big Stopper or 10 stop ND filter.
Three different scenarios as demonstrated and explained in relation to landscape photography. There of course a few other areas that you can use the filter in but I thought that I would concentrate on the most popular ones for now.
As always, please do comment on what you see :)
Excellent tutorial! I’m about to get into using filters on my Canon 5D. Looking forward to getting out here on the Scottish west coast
Thanks for the comments. Only just come across them. Hope you're getting on good with that 5D. Be nice to be up on the west coast of Scotland right now.
Informative and well produced. Can't wait to see more of your work on location. Greg
Thanks Greg! There's a number of things I have planned just on "how to." There will also be a number of places where I'm out and about too so keep your eyes peeled :)
Well explained. Thank you.
Thanks John. Seems like it was useful 👍
I love this tutorial! I learned so much! More videos like these please
Thank you! The beach was one of the most difficult as it was the last one I had to do. And it started raining! Thankfully it stopped for long enough to get the vlog finished :)
Fantastic tutorial,i have the little stopper,so i must get the big stopper also
Thanks Jackie! If you can, go for the IRND filters. More expensive BUT neutral.
Great teaching video. Your info is very easy to follow and understand.
Keith
Appreciate the feedback Keith! I try and teach how I would want to be taught. I find that all too often people gloss over things and leave those watching unable to follow the instruction.
Wonderful explanation!
No problem. Glad it has helped!
I remember the tens stops by counting 30 rotations (clicks) of the shutter wheel. Every three clicks is 1 stop.
Remember though Paul that once you hit Bulb mode that you can't count those clicks :)
139/5000
It's a pleasure to follow you, because I love the simple way you use to explain. From today I am your faithful follower. Thanks Julian Elliott.
Thanks for that Alfredo! I'm glad you found this useful.
Great video, thanks Julian.
Thanks Matthew :)
Thanks for the video Julian, great lesson!
No problems Dreamer. Thanks for commenting :)
Thanks Julian, excellent video, looking forward to more
Thanks James! There will be more when I can fit them in amongst everything else that is going on :)
Love your video Julian
Thanks Steve! Nice to hear it was useful to you :)
Great channel, great presenter.
Thank you for those kind comments!!! That's really nice to hear :)
Great info there Julian, I have got a circular Nisi 6 stop ND filter with a built in Polariser, If using this on water would you just focus and meter before adding the 6 stop/polariser? Thanks.
Hi Dave. Thanks for getting in touch. Normally, depending on how much there is, you should just be able to focus with the filter on.
Very comprehensive and explanatory! You won a new "like and subscribe"
You can tell me please the aperture used for the 3 images and the area where you did the manual focus? Thanks a lot!
P.S. The brand of this shutter / remote control, I'm looking for one for my 6D and I can't find much ...
Hi Florin
From memory I was using f11 which is what I use on most of my images. I usually focus a third of the way into the image and check for sharpness once it's been taken.
I'l unsure of your home country but if you go to Amazon and type in cable release Canon 6D then you'll find lots of third party options.
Hope that helps :)
Very nice tutorial
Thanks for that Mircea. Glad you liked it.
beautiful
Thank you Shivang! Hopefully the vlog proved useful to you and your photographic exploits.
Great tutorial! Newest sub from Oz
Thank you! The comments are appreciated and I hope it helps.
Very useful! Thank you!
No problems 👍 Thank you for commenting 👍
Excellent presentation
Thanks! I appreciate it :)
Quick question, Julian: if I'm not planning on shooting Bulb (meaning, only 30 seconds or less), would I need a 10 stop filter? Would a Hoya ND500 be enough? What about night/star photography?
That depends Thelma. if it's the middle of the day you can still be adding a 10 stop filter and not be in need of the bulb setting. It all depends on what it is you're trying to achieve in your final shot.
Night/ star photography doesn't require filtration. here you are looking at various shutter speeds and ISO depending on what you want to achieve.
Thanks for the reply :) @@JulianElliottPhotography
Great job Elliot really informative👍🏻 all subbed lovely shots
Thanks PhotoNinja! There's another tutorial surrounding the Big Stopper in the works :)
Hello Julian, Congratulations in explaining so clearly your thought processes on how to use a Big Stopper for beginners. One or two questions for you. Will you be showing how you process your long exposure images? And... Did you use mirror lock - up? And Noise Reduction (NR) throughout the exposures. My grateful thanks to you and continued success in all your ventures. Regards, Allan Davies.
Thanks for that Allan!
At some point I will show the processing and especially so as people are asking more and more.
Did I use mirror lock-up? Nope, not in any of them. NR I was told a long time ago by a Canon rep that if you'e shooting in Raw it's pointless turning it on. It's only useful if shooting for jpeg.
The 10 stop I used was the new Lee Filters IRND. Having used a Big Stopper in the past and experienced that blue colour cast I can tell you right now that the new IRND has NO colour cast on it :)
Excellent! Regarding the processing, that you may process. Just wondering when doing a long exposure image in Lightroom would you treat it any different from a normal exposure ???
Hi Allan! Not now because that Lee Filters IRND is neutral and doesn't require mucking around with the white balance to remove the blue colour cast that the Big Stopper had. The waterfall image was the very first image I made using the IRND 10 stop and I couldn't believe how neutral it was!
Excellent news that Julian, one for the Christmas list ...
Absolutely! Just be aware that it doesn't come in a tin like the Big Stopper. It has quite a hard pouch that it comes in. Personally, I know I'll end up breaking it so got a tin to put it in :)
Thank you,very clear 👌
That's great. Thanks for that and nice to know it was well understood.
Good tips Julian. I'm out and about at waterfalls. I do like the way you set the final scene in your mind BEFORE taking the image. For example, setting your exposure on the shaded rock in the falls so it would be almost black wouldn't have been something I would've done. I have much to learn about getting that final image in my head prior to capturing the image. Good tips on the 10Stop filter!
It's very old school way of thinking Miguel. Live View in cameras such as Canon and also those mirrorless cameras have robbed new photographers of the mechanics of metering. It's always a good idea to get to grips with those old school techniques before we lose the knowledge!
Agreed. I actually learned about photography by collecting antique film cameras, mainly 35mm & medium format (sometimes repairing them). I now do both but more digital these days. However, film really made a difference in how I approach digital image taking by trying to remember many of the film era lessons. Thanks!
Fantastic mate
Excellent. Would have some problems doing the 10 x calculation by my marginal mental arithmetical skills!
Robert, there is a small trick to remembering them. You'll see a pattern like this
1 second; 1/2 second; 1/4 second; 1/8 second etc
then go longer and you'll see they match
1 sec; 2 second; 4 second; 8 second etc
Thanks
This was pretty cool. Great
Thank you for commenting. Glad it was of help :)
thank you sir
No problems :)
Superb tutorial.
Thank you Mark! Appreciate you commenting on my work :)
10-Stops is equal to 2^10...1024... Then multiply 1024 by the Shutter Speed Time; Divide the results by 60 Seconds...plus Fraction there of...
Great tutorial vlog. I must admit that I prefer more cloud movement but it couldn't have been moving that fast in shot. Good to go through the ND Grad as well as ND big stopper combined. I noticed you never mentioned the polariser, is there a reason for not using it , especially with the water falls. Unless it was on and I never realized. Thanks for a great vlog. Subscribed.
Hi Gary. Missed your comments from way back when.
From memory the shot using the cloud there was actually a really strong wind. It took forever to actually film that section.
At this point I cannot remember if I had the polarizer on for the waterfall. Normally I would.
Nice work!
Thank you Valentinos! I hope it helped in some way :)
Question - when you metered the sky in the middle tutorial did you just use matrix or spot? And if spot did you meter off the cloud or the blue sky?
Hi Tamon! Thanks for your question. The second tutorial was all about the matrix metering method :)
Thank you.
No problems Diane! Hope it helps and if you have any questions please feel free to ask :)
@@JulianElliottPhotography I struggle with calculating exposure correctly. You used the dark part behind the falls and your exposure without 10stop was spot on. I have used the brightest part of the water in the past, thinking I wouldn't get blown out highlights. My shadows are always too deep. I've tried metering for stone, thinking it would be a mid tone but the highlights blow. So how did it work using the darkest part, I didn't understand the calculation. I'd appreciate a little help with that. Thank you.
@@dianesnowflake how are you calculating the exposure in the first place? If I meter for the whites or darks then I normally minus off or add on two stops. So if you meter a very dark rock and it says that it's 1/15 when the meter is zero then I make it 1/60.
@@JulianElliottPhotography I use my light meter or spot meter in camera. I didn't realise you had to go up or down a stop from original metering. So that's why I've been struggling all this time. Crikey, it makes total sense now. Thank you.
Sorry, 2 stops.
re exposure for the fall it seems exposure for the shadows full stop, is this experience, flat lighting or is exposing for the highlights not a choice for technical reasons
You can go either way Gerry! Taking the exposure reading from the darks comes down to when I used to use a separate handheld spot meter. You can of course do the reverse and meter from the falls and open it up by stops to get what you're after :)
When it comes down to it the beauty of digital is of course you can meter either one and choose which you feel works best for the scene in hand.
You'll see that the landscape at Pilsdon Pen was done with matrix metering and so the method changes again!
Thanks Julian very helpful video. Can you tell me where this video was taken? I'm in the SW UK and never seen this spot before. Cheers.
Hi there. Which spot are you referring to?
@@JulianElliottPhotography Sorry I should have been more specific, I was referring to the river at the beginning of the video.
@@PropPlanePat i thought you may have been. Venford Falls.
Thanks a lot for quite informative video.
I kindly appreciate if you could mention how metering of foreground and sky works on your camera. (Is any particular pre setting needed for that?)
BTW I use 6D Mii.
Hi Shayan. Easiest metering is to use the matrix one as it averages it all out.
@@JulianElliottPhotography
... The old Olympus had a fabulous spot metering that could add several measurements...
I tend to avoid "matrix" metering for elaborate photography as I never know how it will calculate the exposure... (also problematic with grads).
A good reading in the most important spot and a second in the most problematic spot, and then a bit of mental work figuring out how I want the final result will probably end in a good result...!
Thanks for the video and keep the good work.
Nice vid , what lens did you used?
Thanos Manolis Thank you for the comments! Off hand I cannot remember exactly. Probably a 24-70 and/ or 17-40
@@JulianElliottPhotography what holder did you used?
I suppose one advantage of using back button focus, is you can skip switching AF off
Hi. Sorry I missed this comment. No, the back button focus stops you using the shutter button for focusing. It’s not a replacement for the AF/ MF switch.
How do you activate the horizon bar (green line) ? Thanks.
Is it possible to meter firstly without the filter and compose,then add the ND filter and expose to the light using the histogram. Rather than calculating number of stops?
Hi there. Of course! There is no reason why you can't do that.
That clicky link is moreso at the 2:00 position, not the 12:00 position ;)
Love the info btw.
That's a nice video. I've got a 5D Mark iii but I don't know how to do 128 seconds. Could you please tell me how to do that? thanks
Hi Antonio! of course. You need to put the camera in Bulb mode and use a cable release to activate the shutter. You'll have a way to hold the shutter button when using the release and then watch the display on the camera as it counts out the seconds. Does that help?
Julian Elliott Photography Hi Julian, yes it did help a lot. I understand now. Thank you very much for your simple and helpful explanation.
No worries Antonio! Glad it helped :)
the final shot would have looked great in black and white but I guess this is a tutorial for another day. I personally like the streaky whites of long exposures in running water and the effect it has on the sea especially when it's calm. However, the reactions I get from people who do not know anything about photography and long exposures in particular, is that they think that I processed the hell out of them in photoshop and it drives me crazy. But this is the problem of the average viewer who only knows about selfies and not anything about photography!
Hi Marieta! It was a thought in my mind o do black and white but as it seems to be the default of a lot of people I kept it as colour.
Long exposures are one of those areas that people either love or hate. I kind of tend to stay in the middle ground because it very much depends on how it's done.
With water I prefer it to be not overly long as I want to show motion that is there. It does depend on the scene but if I had a preference I'd go for a seascape over a waterfall though :)
Julian Elliott Photography I agree with you, personal taste is very subjective. In fast running waterfalls you don't really need extremely long exposures . Even 2-3 seconds can be more than enough at times to achieve motion blur. The last time I was out shooting in the forest, the area was so dark under the canopy and even with my polarising filter I was getting 2-3 seconds of exposure which I thought it was all I needed really and didn't use my nd filter at all.
Exactly my own thoughts and I wholeheartedly agree with you! It's deceptive looking at the video but where the waterfall was you're quite sheltered and also covered by the trees canopy. Because of this the exposure was already elongated and once the 10 stop was added on it lengthened the exposure exponentially.
Subtlety is absolutely key with this filter :)
Thank you for this tutorial!
Do you need to take off the CPL when adding an ND filter?
Can the CPL be used as a ND (turing to the right ) in some circumstances?
Hi Mariano. You can use any ND filter with a circular polariser and can use together or separately. They work in different ways. The polariser will lengthen your shot by 2 stops PLUS remove any glare from water or depending on the direction to the sun polarise the sky. Even if you don't turn the polariser it will still lengthen the exposure.
I got a doubt regarding the role of ND filter for sunrise landscapes. How do you decide which shutter speed you need for the blue hour and golden hour shots? And for seascapes on the sunrise. Please explain in detail. Thanks
For me the shutter speed is dictated by the light falling on the foreground.
ND filter in sunrise landscapes. Do you mean grads? If so, yes people have their doubts because you can overdo it and it shows a lot. I personally use a lot of exposure blending between two exposures to try to recreate how I saw the scene as closely as I can.
@@JulianElliottPhotography thanks for the reply. Not grads.direct ND filter in seascapes before dawn to make the sea water silky and the clouds smooth. What steps to take for the dawn shoots? Some are using ND filters 10 stop / 6 stop to make water silky and smooth for seascape dawn shooting. How to manage this different light situations? Can I use exposure bracketing ?
@@ksnmurthy4476 this really comes down to the overall effect that you are wanting to achieve. For me I prefer to not go too long with the exposures in water otherwise it looks daft. You can do bracketing if you find the sky is blowing out but normally pre-daw, for example, you shouldn't need to.
@@JulianElliottPhotography thank you
@ksn murthy no problems👍
I have one question. If I use 6 stop ND filter the math goes 6 stop ahead of the base exposure? Please clarify. Thanks
exactly. If your base exposure is, say, 1/2 second then adding a 6 stop ND filter then makes then exposure 30 seconds
What i find a little confusing is some shutter speed charts say you count up to 120 seconds or two minutes and some charts say 125 seconds like you also do.
Hi Simon. Sorry it took so long to respond. I am working on the theory that when you count the decreasing shutter speed that it mirrors the increasing speed.
Another great video Julian. I use Hitech Filters do you think they is much difference in Lee and Hitech?. Portland Bill, Kimmeridge are my favourite places
Paul Chambers honestly, I can’t yet give you a comment on whether Lee or Hitech are better. I have never compared the two and so it would be unfair to try.
What I can tell you though is the new Lee Filters IRND is definitely neutral. The images captured during the vlog had no cast in them 😀
Hope you dont mind but I recommended your white balance video on a post on Alamy forum . Hopefully you will get some more subscribers
Paul Chambers thanks for that! I did see there is a guy over on Alamy posting up Lightroom videos. Be interesting to see if comments 🙂
I should make some time to catch up with you proper when I’m in Salisbury. Whenever that will be🤔
That will be good.
Paul Chambers it all depends on time. I was there a few weeks ago and should have said something but was to caught up trying to do the vlog. I’m possibly in Salisbury in a few weeks time but only for a couple of days. Even then time will be manic!!!
I assume you shot in ISO 50; what about the aperture? 8 for sharpness? All the way to 22?
Hi there. F22? I hardly ever use that! F11 yes but never down to f22.
You are incredible sir! Your instructional videos is at a level that most "instructors" fail to reach. May I suggest a topic for a video: Your ND filter video is great but one thing I often hear people saying they do in practice is to stack a hard GND with a soft GND, usually to achieve 4,5,or 6 stops. I dont understand the technique and its application with even and un-even horizons. This is obviously a more advanced technique, but it seems to be a very important trick. Just a thought. Keep up the good work, thanks!
Hi PrivTrd! I have an inkling as to two different things that you're after there. One is possibly the use of two filters on the scene where you need two grads. The other is where you put in a grad normally but then put one in upside down to create a pseudo reverse grad. Will have a think of how I can fulfil this :)
I remain very interested in hearing more about this. I had no idea people were combining them in reverse, those types of tips are VERY useful because they can yield an effective way to capture difficult scenes and also to economize on the number of grads one has to purchase. I have yet to see a video on creative and clever ways to combine grads thought I would suggest it. On a side note, another quick question: With the Lee GNDs, is it possible to slide it down all the way and use it as an ND ?
Turning them in reverse is a technique that is out there if you look hard enough on the net. Lee Filters told me about it around 9 years or so ago. I "think" if memory serves the technique is described in their second book on filtration.
As for using a grad as a ND filter. I've never done it but I guess if you pulled down a hard grad far enough then it would cover the entirety of the lens à la ND.
Thanks again! Great explanation thanks so much for taking the the time to get back to me, much appreciated. I am really looking forward to seeing many more of your great videos.
hello sir... m beganer and ineterested landscape , i have 80d and whcih lens should i buy for sharp images.. and also how to calculate exposure m really confuse on that .. do u have any video than plz teach step by step about metering on video thanks u vry much
Hi there! pretty much any lens will give you sharp images unless it's faulty in some way. Some lenses are sharper than others such as prime lenses rather than zoom lenses.
Calculating exposure. It's not an exact tutorial but if you find my video on using graduated filters you'll see how I meter. This should help you along :)
@@JulianElliottPhotography thanks for u r reply sir...i have kit lens 18 55 lens n thinking which to buy for best images for landscape. m not getting on metering background n forground using nd filter so plz requestiing to make video about metering back ground n forground n how to set exposure on camera thanks
I'll make a note and try and do something :)
Hi Julian if I set my camera and auto focus my scene in this case f11 at 1/6 then change to manual mode fit a 8stop it calculates to 42sec but I'm getting a very over exposed picture am I doing this wrong
Hi Peter. Sorry for not responding earlier. Firstly, I have to say I haven’t heard of an 8 stop filter. However, by my calculations around 30 seconds should do it.
In the second part when you metered the foreground and then the sky. What exposure mode were you in? Aperture Priority??
Hi Ashley. Sorry for not responding earlier. Always in manual mode for me👍 things such as live view and mirror less cameras have taken away some of the techniques used.
Can you do a 15 stop nd filter?
Hi there! Just seen that I haven't responded to your comment on my tutorial. So firstly, apologies for that.
I don't have a 15 stop ND filter and honestly I'm not sure that I would have much use for it.
You should be able to take the principles that I demonstrate during the video and apply them to the other ND filters to help you.
@@JulianElliottPhotography ohh okay. Anyways thank you for replying. Waiting for new videos from you. From 🇮🇳
@@Hrshsngh_19 well, when I can pull my finger out there is a vlog from Norway that I filmed in February. I haven't filmed any vlogs since then as I haven't yet had the time. But there are some in the pipeline.
You doing OK in India? I hear it's pretty locked down over there!
So how do you use a light meter?
For landscape photography? Watch the video again and it will help 👍
Where is the waterfall in this video?
I live in dorset
Hi Paul. It's over the border in Devon. At the western edge of Dartmoor.
Could you use a camera remote instead of the cable?
Lauren Siemens by camera remote do you mean a wireless remote? If so, I haven’t ever used one so couldn’t say but if it can trigger the shutter and keep it closed during a long exposure then yes.
Thanks for the tutorial, and especially for a maths - I would hate to use an app :D
Kombivar it is better to understand the math as it’s so often that phones die in the field or are simply forgotten.
why the long expo shot wasnt sharp at the bottom rock?
Hi Sandor? Which image? The waterfall one? I can't remember off-hand why but yes that particular one was.
Hi can you tell me please your opinion on a 6 stop verable nd filter vs the little stopper
Hi James. Sorry I didn't reply earlier as I've been traveling. Honestly, I've never used a variable ND filter so couldn't give you an opinion either way as to which is better. I have heard of some variable ND filters having some issues but can't remember the exact nature of what they were. I suspect though that if you do go for a variable ND it would be very wise to buy the absolute best that you can. In regards to lee Filters it is a far wiser investment to go for the IRND filters as they are neutral.
Hi Julian thanks for the reply much appreciated , plus love the videos
@@jamesarmstrong6593 no problem! I'd prefer to be honest and upfront on my use of filters :) As I said, I know with at least some variable filters I've heard of a particular issue but can't remember what it was.
And thanks on liking the videos! You should see some adventures from Mongolia very soon as well as from up in Scotland.
I will look forward to seeing your next video , again thanks
I’ve never had a dog eat my phone, or my wife throw it out of the window. But if that happens, I just set my camera up at something an use trial and error. FFS I’ve taken an hour or whatever to get there. Take the picture check the results. This is digital photography
Yes but there are people who would like to know how to use the filter and how to correctly expose an image without mucking around. It maybe digital photography but if mess up the exposure then no amount of Lightroom or Photoshop will fix it.
Why do my images come out super dark around the edges when using super long exposures with wide angle lenses? Very annoying.
Hi Jay. It could very much be that the filter is creating a vignette which is why you are seeing the edges. For example if I use my Canon 17-40mm and the polarizer that I have then you can see the corners at around 17mm on a full frame camera. However, start going beyond 24mm and they disappear.
It would be worth trying different focal lengths to see where the issue arises.
Thank you very much for the response! Actually, the darkening around the edges is seen ONLY when i use extremely long exposures, upwards of two minutes or so, while using a wide angle lens. it doesn't occur when using a 300mm. its a slight shading around the perimeter of the photo, but different from the darkening thats caused by a screw in filter. I understand what you are referring to, I see it all the time when I use a polarizer on my 10-18. this is different. a different "form" if you will. and it can NOT be seen through the view-finder, no matter what focal length i use. it happens on both of my wide angle lenses. 10-18 and 18-55. ive read about it here or there on the web, but cant seem to find a firm solution to it.
Hi Jay! I'm not sure either. The only thing that springs to mind is that at shorter exposures the darkening is there but you're not really seeing it but then as soon as you elongate said exposure then it becomes more pronounce.
I've had a search this morning to see if I can find an answer and like you there seems to be scant information about it.
i want to get a big stopper but they run from 38 dollars to 400 dollars is there one you can recommend that wont break the bank thanks..........
Hi there. My honest advice is that I am currently only able to comment on the Lee Filters range as that is what I use. There are a number of manufacturers out there that have great reputations from Nisi to Breakthrough and beyond.
Ideally, you want one that is as neutral as you can get. The new Lee Filters one is expensive but definitely neutral. It was born from the use in the film and TV industry and so has to be.
How much do you spend? It can be hard but ideally, if you know there is a quality product there just wait and get it. It's better to buy something that you know works and will give you what you want than to buy cheap and work your way up. By doing that you'd probably be spending what it costs for one of the more expensive ones.
Calculating the exposure...why? You are shooting with remote controle.....you have a timer on your remote....just take several shots if you know which aperture to use.....
Why calculate exposure? Because with mirrorless cameras people are losing the ability to understand exposure.
What do you use to cover the view finder?
can use a gaffer's tape.
Tripod and head you are using ?
Manfrotto Carbon Fibre one but can't remember the model off-hand. Manfrotto 410 geared head which I like because of its precision.
Lee IRND 10 stops 190£ only. Bargain.
Hi Dan. Yes, I feel your pain on the price. But there is a noticeable difference between the original Big Stopper and the IRND filter. There are people out there who are prepared to pay.
14 min. are too much.
Yes, it's always a balance. One sequence got edited out of this so it could have been even longer. However, I do try and give people all the info they need and at times it takes time.