Have been trawling through the forums trying to get an answer to this fault code. Such a great video, thanks for taking time to explain. Will call up when you’re open on Monday to book our Q5 in
Had the same fault code on my 2013 diesel Q5. Thought the only option was to have it programmed out or leave the car at the stealership for a pricey repair. Thanks to you I got the problem fixed for 5 euros in under half an hour by soldering a 3 Ohm resistor inline with the heater connector and tricking the computer to thinking the heating coil is fine. Having moderately warm winters, I don't see the heater that necessary. AdBlue starts to freeze at around -17c (tested myself). Many thanks for the video and best of luck on your work.
Hi! I have the same issue. Got a few questions for you if you have the time. Did this solve the issue aswell, or does the actual problem remain and it is just to trick the computer? No matter the answer, could you please dumb it down a bit for me, like how do I know which parts i need to solder? Where are these at exactly? Cheers mate.
@@illyrian89 Hi! The issue was solved only by tricking the computer into thinking that the heater coil is working fine. The adblue system is working just fine without the heater. As I have tested, the adblue starts to freeze at around -17c, so there is no worries for me living in moderately warm winters without the heater element working. You can see two wires coming out of the heating element at around 2:10 . You need to connect the 6ohm resistor in parallel to these wires (meaning one end of the resistor soldered to one wire of the heater, and the other end of the resistor soldered to the second wire coming from the heater). Since I couldn't find a 6ohm resistor, I connected two 3ohm 50W resistors in parallel to obtain 6ohms. Hope this helps. Would suggest taking it to an electrician if you doubt your skills or knowledge on this repair. Best of luck.
Adblue freezes -11°C, I live in a country that doesn't ever get that cold, so the heater never comes on. So I simply cut the two wires for the heater and soldered on a 8ohm 100w wire wound resister, a bit of heat shrink, $20 worth of parts, 2 hours of time. No problems from the reductant heater system that was 3.5 years ago... Save yourself a fortune. (I have an AUDI Q5 2013 2.0L CGLC DOHC 16v Turbo Diesel)
Audi's engine management system is smart. The 100W 8 Ohm resistor mimics a heater. If you short (bridge the two wire together) the reductant heater will have 0 ohms and still report a fault. So looking at the current on the wire, V=IR => I= V/R = 12/8 = 1.5A which the cars wiring system should be able to handle with ease. Also P= I^2R = 1.5^2*8 = 18W so the resistor has plenty of spare capacity to handle the load. You can try a new combination if you want. Let us know. BTW Google 100W 8 Ohm wire resistors they are cheap and hardy for under the car. Cheers. Lastly, still no problems and my local mechanic is now using this solution and charging customers $300. (Lastly this youtube is great Autodeutsch VAG does a good job at explaining the problem. One improvement, would be to include in the video the wiring to heater under the car..)
2:47 Does anyone happen to know the part number for this element that he replaces? I already replaced the DEF pump on my 2014 Audi Q5 tdi and today it threw the P203B code after 50 miles without the check engine light on. These DEF-related Vw/Audi issues seem simple on the surface but often require a series of fixes and diagnostics. Frustrating for DIY mechanics like me that don’t have the luxury of a lift.
Hello and thanks for a very informative video 👍 Out of interest have you ever come across a Reductant pressure sensor fault P204b00? This is also giving Reductant pressure too high P20e900. 2016 Audi A6 for reference. Any help would be much appreciated. Kind regards Tony.
Hi Great video. My man replaced the pipe and injectors. Still showing add blue fault on the dash. On his diagnostics, it's showing no faults. Please advise.
There are 2 modules you have to delete the faults from. The engine module AND the reductant module. Then you need to take it for a drive. This can sometimes need up to 30 miles. If its still on after that it will require further investigation
Hi I have a 2016 Q5 with an error P20E8 reductant low pressure, would lead to the reductant pump being the issue or the injector which I've cleaned. thanks
Hi there,have a recently purchased 67 plate A5...ad blue/default no restart in 650 miles message popped up engine management light on..any ideas?had car 12 weeks had nothing but problems from the get go.
@taysirazim9614 got rid of the car to save me a headache as all garages said couldn't actually find a problem with the ad blue...they reckoned it was a problem with the computer brain
@@vorsprung OMG you all are legends! If I'm ever in Manchester I will stop by your shop and drop off a case of beer! Shit I might just make a trip to specifically drop off a case of beer!
İn mein auto ist die rohr ruasgekommen habe suzammen gebaut. Alle system lauft aber die panne geht nicht weg. 600 km geht das auto zu.. bis enjektör kommt adblue.. aber die panne geht nicht weg p20E800 cod.. was sol ich machen. Es zeigt -500 durck aber durck gibt es im auto habe von rohr getestet. Voll durck bis enjektör. Was soll ich machen noch. Deaktviere ist letzte schauns
Hi, I have an Audi a4 2.0 diesel 2016 with the same engine fault. I have changed the pump once, was alright for a while but the error came back. Maybe changing this pipe will solve the problem. I hope. This audi is a nightmare so far for me. Thanks for the video!
Have been trawling through the forums trying to get an answer to this fault code. Such a great video, thanks for taking time to explain.
Will call up when you’re open on Monday to book our Q5 in
Had the same fault code on my 2013 diesel Q5. Thought the only option was to have it programmed out or leave the car at the stealership for a pricey repair. Thanks to you I got the problem fixed for 5 euros in under half an hour by soldering a 3 Ohm resistor inline with the heater connector and tricking the computer to thinking the heating coil is fine. Having moderately warm winters, I don't see the heater that necessary. AdBlue starts to freeze at around -17c (tested myself).
Many thanks for the video and best of luck on your work.
Hi! I have the same issue.
Got a few questions for you if you have the time.
Did this solve the issue aswell, or does the actual problem remain and it is just to trick the computer?
No matter the answer, could you please dumb it down a bit for me, like how do I know which parts i need to solder? Where are these at exactly?
Cheers mate.
@@illyrian89 Hi!
The issue was solved only by tricking the computer into thinking that the heater coil is working fine. The adblue system is working just fine without the heater. As I have tested, the adblue starts to freeze at around -17c, so there is no worries for me living in moderately warm winters without the heater element working.
You can see two wires coming out of the heating element at around 2:10 . You need to connect the 6ohm resistor in parallel to these wires (meaning one end of the resistor soldered to one wire of the heater, and the other end of the resistor soldered to the second wire coming from the heater).
Since I couldn't find a 6ohm resistor, I connected two 3ohm 50W resistors in parallel to obtain 6ohms.
Hope this helps. Would suggest taking it to an electrician if you doubt your skills or knowledge on this repair.
Best of luck.
Applied your fix today! Saved me a small fortune, many thanks for taking the time and sharing your advice on here.
Hi you have picture where you soldered the resistor exactly
Very helpful, thanks for taking the time to make the video. Now pondering whether i want to fork out £180 for something that’s not a big issue!
Adblue freezes -11°C, I live in a country that doesn't ever get that cold, so the heater never comes on. So I simply cut the two wires for the heater and soldered on a 8ohm 100w wire wound resister, a bit of heat shrink, $20 worth of parts, 2 hours of time. No problems from the reductant heater system that was 3.5 years ago... Save yourself a fortune. (I have an AUDI Q5 2013 2.0L CGLC DOHC 16v Turbo Diesel)
Please send me specifics on this. Did you mean a 10w resistor as a 100w would be rather large.
Did you mean 100ohm 10 watt? Because I'm struggling to find what you suggested.
Audi's engine management system is smart. The 100W 8 Ohm resistor mimics a heater. If you short (bridge the two wire together) the reductant heater will have 0 ohms and still report a fault. So looking at the current on the wire, V=IR => I= V/R = 12/8 = 1.5A which the cars wiring system should be able to handle with ease. Also P= I^2R = 1.5^2*8 = 18W so the resistor has plenty of spare capacity to handle the load. You can try a new combination if you want. Let us know. BTW Google 100W 8 Ohm wire resistors they are cheap and hardy for under the car. Cheers. Lastly, still no problems and my local mechanic is now using this solution and charging customers $300. (Lastly this youtube is great Autodeutsch VAG does a good job at explaining the problem. One improvement, would be to include in the video the wiring to heater under the car..)
From România thenk you
ai rezolvat cumva? multumesc
Am aceeași problema la un q7. Cum s-a rezolvat problema la voi?
2:47 Does anyone happen to know the part number for this element that he replaces? I already replaced the DEF pump on my 2014 Audi Q5 tdi and today it threw the P203B code after 50 miles without the check engine light on.
These DEF-related Vw/Audi issues seem simple on the surface but often require a series of fixes and diagnostics. Frustrating for DIY mechanics like me that don’t have the luxury of a lift.
Hello and thanks for a very informative video 👍
Out of interest have you ever come across a Reductant pressure sensor fault P204b00? This is also giving Reductant pressure too high P20e900. 2016 Audi A6 for reference. Any help would be much appreciated.
Kind regards Tony.
excellent video, very helpful. thanks a lot
Hi
Great video. My man replaced the pipe and injectors. Still showing add blue fault on the dash. On his diagnostics, it's showing no faults. Please advise.
There are 2 modules you have to delete the faults from. The engine module AND the reductant module. Then you need to take it for a drive. This can sometimes need up to 30 miles. If its still on after that it will require further investigation
I have p203b fault code reductant level sensor . Where is that on the adblue system
Unfortunately The level sensor is built in to the pump, so the whole pump has to be changed
What is P20E80 kode.Does this code mean my car's adblue brain malfunction?
How much is it if it is fault 1 / A? Im guessing that's the full pump. Code p20BC
Audi A5, code p204b reductant pressure sensor. Any ideas mate?
Hi. Yes, unfortunately the pressure sensor is built in to the pump itself. So the whole pump will need to be changed
Thanks for your reply, have you a rough idea of the cost of the complete pump? 😫 considering a remap to bypass it altogether
Hi, great video. Have you ever done a adblue pressure sensor on Q5? Thank you.
Hi. Yes I have. Unfortunately the pressure sensor is built in to the pump, so the whole pump has to be replaced
Hi 😊 what is the parts orginale Number?
Is P20E800 the same thing?
Hi can I short the injector contacts for a while before I change it? Since it is in fault
Hi , I have been today to the service and they gave the code P204F ,do you know anything ABOUT ?
Thanks, good video 👌
Can you provide the part number
Do you have to bleed the pipe after fitting
Hi. I use VCDS to perform a bleeding sequence. But it should bleed up fine with a short drive
@@vorsprung hello, can I start the car without bleed?system will bleed itself after short drive?
Much appreciated
Will be ringing you thanks...
Hi I have a 2016 Q5 with an error P20E8 reductant low pressure, would lead to the reductant pump being the issue or the injector which I've cleaned. thanks
Hi, that's usually a pump
Hi mate, P20fb00 Reductant pump B control performance /stuck off on vw crafter 2017 any ideea? I can't find any info on Internet.
Hi
I have ad blue error now on my car the CODE IS :- P20E8 what is this code for mate? Waiting for your reply. Thanks
Hi there,have a recently purchased 67 plate A5...ad blue/default no restart in 650 miles message popped up engine management light on..any ideas?had car 12 weeks had nothing but problems from the get go.
Hi, I know it’s been 3 yrs but just been googling around as I’ve got the same issue with my a5 2018. What did you do to resolve the issue in the end?
@taysirazim9614 got rid of the car to save me a headache as all garages said couldn't actually find a problem with the ad blue...they reckoned it was a problem with the computer brain
White is p20b900, p148b00. Code? Thenk you
What's the part number?
Hi. The part number for this car is 8R0131984AA
@@vorsprung OMG you all are legends! If I'm ever in Manchester I will stop by your shop and drop off a case of beer! Shit I might just make a trip to specifically drop off a case of beer!
@@matthewstephenbrown no worries pal. Tell you what would help more. If you've got a minute, leave us a positive review on Google. Cheers 👍🍻
Thanks.
What is P20E80 code
I have a problem with AdBlur 🔧 AdBlue: system fault. No restart in 850km!
See owner’s maunal :) so please help,what should I do.
Best Regard!
Hi. You need to take the car to your local specialist to diagnose the problem 👍
@@vorsprung p20e800 reductant pressure too low
I’m mechanic 👨🔧 but I never work with Audi Just BMW
@@youtubeaction8241 usually, Reductant pressure too low means that your pump is faulty
İn mein auto ist die rohr ruasgekommen habe suzammen gebaut. Alle system lauft aber die panne geht nicht weg. 600 km geht das auto zu.. bis enjektör kommt adblue.. aber die panne geht nicht weg p20E800 cod.. was sol ich machen. Es zeigt -500 durck aber durck gibt es im auto habe von rohr getestet. Voll durck bis enjektör. Was soll ich machen noch. Deaktviere ist letzte schauns
2014 Touareg TDI fault code P205B. Is B the same as 2? And thank you
Hi, I have an Audi a4 2.0 diesel 2016 with the same engine fault. I have changed the pump once, was alright for a while but the error came back.
Maybe changing this pipe will solve the problem. I hope.
This audi is a nightmare so far for me.
Thanks for the video!