96 Yukon (88-98 OBS Chevy GMC) - Evaporator & Heater WITHOUT dash removal
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- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2024
- I want to give a shout and a lot of credit to the RUclipsr with the 3-minute video showing that this was possible in the first place. I just wanted to make a longer video explaining what I did and why I did it and exactly what you need to get to to be able to pull the evaporator coil and the heater core on these older trucks. the next generation after this there was a workaround where you
could basically cut an access panel that you had to glue back together. this is cleaner but a little more work on these older ones.
WHEN YOU LOOK AT THE FIREWALL THERE ARE TWO 10 MM BOLTS WITH SILICONE ON THEM. UNDO THOSE SO THAT THE BOX CAN MOVE AROUND A LITTLE BIT FREELY. ALSO WHEN LOOKING ABOVE THE BOX THROUGH THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT TAKE OUT THE TWO 7 MM BOLTS THAT HOLDS THE RELAYS AND LOOSEN THE 10-MM BOLTS ON THE FIREWALL TO ALLOW THAT TOP OF THE BOX TO MOVE AROUND A BIT. I WILL JUST PREPARE YOU GUYS, IF I START GETTING THE COVER OUT WAS DIFFICULT, GETTING IT BACK IN IS A REAL PATIENT TESTER.
Lmao finally someone actually made a video showing where that last rear screw is and HOW they actually did it, instead of just saying it’s possible and showing absolutely nothing lol. Thanks man! I knew I was missing that back screw but didn’t even know where to feel around for it.
SA TX here. 99 suburban. Haven’t had ac in this truck in 4 years and it’s my work truck. Just did this today. Took me between 20-30 minutes to get it out. And I have big ass hands with sausage fingers…so no big deal. Now putting it back in should be as easy … right. Same issue you had. My drier fitting were seized up and I cracked the evaporator core trying to loosen them so can O worms opened. I’ve got everything new here except for the evaporator core so I’ll have a completely new AC system when I’m done 👍. Great video btw. It helped with finding all the screws.
Heyyyyy...glad to hear it, man. THanks for chiming in!
Works well coming out but really sucks putting it back together ended up removing most of the firewall insulation behind the box which made it easier to reinstall plus having a harbor freight cheap inspection camera really helped seeing the back hidden screws but again thanks for making this video
Going back in really made me question whether this was the right way...it also made me question the meaning of life and why the heck I keep tinkering on all these older vehicles. LOL...now that it's done...no complaints though...still happier without dash drop.
Yeah that was hard. I actually couldn't get the screws in the back that held up the piece under the evaporator, so I just put a screw through the back part of it into the fire wall! Bottom piece seemed like it has pretty tight without the back screw and it wasn't really holding anything up any way. If it does seem to be leaking a lot of air I figure I could use a plastic or metal block, push it up against the box and screw it into the firewall.
I did it an easy way I cut the front of box as they show in later years on my 99 Tahoe the only extra thing you need to cut is the knee pipe behind glove box then once it was done I used 2 pipe connectors and put my the knee pipe back together whole removal and install took just over an hour plus I sealed the plastic cover I cut out with flex seal tape and spray then covered with black gorilla tape looks and works great I wish RUclips would let me add pictures to the comments
Well ... Thx for this video. Just finished the R&R of AC Evap and Heater Core on my 1999 Tahoe 4x4.
Fastener pattern and disassembly was the first most important feature. The second most important feature were the wise words that reassembly would test patience ... and sure did. 1.5 hrs disassemble vs 3 days to finish reassembly 😮.
Overall, success was achieved and I'm ready to pull the vac on the AC.
Tips: Read all the notes and comments BEFORE you start.
I used my phone camera many times to find hidden hardware.
Remove the 3 firewall bolts and the one interior bolt above the box, about in the center of the glove box cutout.
I suggest removing the passenger front seat to give more wiggle room.
Best of luck to anyone who goes for it !!
Yep. I did the dash drop on my 2000 Silverado. Broken plastic pieces. Worn out foam insulation. I hope this video is a blessing to future d-I-yers.
Well I can tell you that getting that cover back in in that tight little spot and lining everything back up while trying to get around the evaporator is probably the reason why a dash drop is considered the right way to do it. What a nightmare. Broke a couple of little inconsequential pieces and got it all back together but I'm really hoping I don't have to do this job again. I'm wondering if the additional time it takes to drop the dash is worth it to not be that frustrated.
@@jperrod1979 where did you get that mat cuz I got to have one
@@brt-jn7kg autoanything website...they actually make their own branded mats...it was on sale at the time but I think I paid under $180 for both rows AND the matching rear cargo area so they would all match. All weather mats are a must have IMO.
I have a1996 k1500 Z71, locked rotor compressor, decided to replace it all, thank you for showing the screw locations, it helped tremendously! Your video came up first, and had the information that I needed Thanks again!
THANK YOU! I watched 2 others before yours and they showed the dash drop. So, again, thank you for this video, and the advice about how to get to the last screw helped a lot.
HA HA RUclips videos always make it look easy. I had the same tbl with the accumulator twisted that f'n thing right off. I managed to get all the screws out except one on the left next to the firewall/padding, by the inside top of the blend door. drove the 1/4 inch driver socket into the padding and lost the socket. Had to cut into it and got lucky with my finger and gravity to get it back. Spent 8 hour on that one screw so far, got to get it out! It definitely will not go back in. Once I get it apart I will be able to get the evaporator out and replaced. Yes you could have been more concise and slower on the 7 screw locations, but very happy you showed it could be done and also thanks to the 3 minute RUclipsr.
I will let you know if I ever get all this back together. Thanks again!
Hey Brother, thanks for the great video! I just did this on my 99 Suburban K2500 7.4L. You were right about that last bolt up against the firewall being a pain to remove. I also had to cut the top connection to the dryer to get it out. Getting the evaporator out wasn't so bad nor was getting the new one in place. Getting the cover back in place was harder, and I cracked the housing in the process, not a big crack. Once that was in place putting in the new heater core and closing it up was a cinch. This process was so much better than removing the dash would have been. Doubt my rig would have been driveable after if I'd I went that route. Side note, I am replacing the interior of my rig, so had removed the carpet, seats, and center console before attempting this. Moved the rear floor air vent out of the way, and all this made getting to that last bolt easier.
wow this was a great help thank you very much! Definitely hard to put back screws back in so for the upper piece that holds the evaporator up and the heater core hangs from, I just a screw through the back wall of the upper piece and into the firewall. The lower piece just closes it all in and nothing is really pushing down on it so not having the back screws doesn't seem like much of an issue. The switches I used for my 97 c1500 extended cab are all santech. The pressure switch mounted on a/c manifold was MT0790. The switch mounted in back of compressor was MT0447. The switch mounted on dryer was MT0205. As of yesterday afternoon I got it charged and it's working well, 55degree coming out of the vent on a 90 degree day without being in max air.
TY…. Replacing evaporator on a 1997 K1500 Z71. Watched this video. Taping two extensions with electrical tape and using the goove in the plastic to find the back bolt resulted in getting it out on my first try. Thanks again!!
Did my 98 Silverado evaporator. Just partially removed the dash, took the entire heater/AC box out. Cleaned and replaced everything, including the actuators, reinstalled everything in just under 3 hrs.
But, I kinda like your idea. I’ll give it a a shot on my current 98.
thanks for your detail and sharing your full repair.
You are the man. The death bolt was not too hard with your video. That back bolt has the same angled vertical edge as the front. I ended up cutting up the back rubber matting to get more room for putting it back together. It seemed to help. I then wedged all that back up and used some loctite caulk stuff to glue that to the back. Its all under carpet, so i think it's fine. Thanks again for the great video.
Awesome, man! Thanks for the comment and additional helpful tips
Dude thank you so much. Had the exact same problem. Every line is seized.
Good job. I cut a bit too much off the dryer nut on the upper hose to the evap and nicked the o-ring sealing surface, so out goes the heatercore and evap and the client gets all new on me.
Great video.
thank you, i was overwhelmed with the thought of removing my dash
Think I'll take my time and drop the dash. my OCD will not let me sleep, stress me out and bother me the entire time owning the truck if not all the screws/bolts are back in and i broke and chip/cracked pieces along the way.
Its very satisfying and rewarding to me when a job is done and i know everything is correct and working.
Make a GOOD video on the process!!! Maybe I'll use it to redo this in the future. Honestly, it's all working just fine...no leaks and no creaks so all is well that end's well but it was NOT easy to put back in.
@@jperrod1979 glad to hear. and thanks for showing your journey on the possibilities.
Hey I just did this after watching your video. Thanks for showing it’s possible. I was fully prepared to remove the dash before seeing this. I got lucky and was able to have it out in about 30 minutes, but only because you showed the location of all the screws so well.
I can't get mine back in without breaking the panel (already broke a brand new panel $149 and bought another used panel off Ebay for $99 and still having no luck at all getting it in successfully).... 3 years and still fighting this fight! My A/c equipment all works just fine, but doesn't blow air thru the evap without the duct panel in place. I'm stuck!
@@michaelshrader5139can I have your link to the panel?
Thankyou for the help. I did the same thing with the dryer can. I have never had this issue with a y other brand of vehicle. It had to be a chevy that has this problem. 😫
Glad it helped
Sorry to hear that you had a little bit of trouble but because of your video I was able to do mine without dropping the dashboard I did have to remove the seats in a little bit of the air conditioner bypass on under that but of it not all the parts with some PB blaster ahead of time came right off sorry you have to go through that thank you though my job was pretty easy have a good day
Hey Jerry! Glad it worked out for you, man. That was a big part of why I bother to record stuff is hoping it'll help someone like so many have helped me before. Take care and have a great one.
Good video.. had to go back and watch it again... that plastic mold is my headache at the moment. Got everything else out but that last mold is holding on. 😆.. I'll attack it again later.. thanks for a detailed introduction tho.
I know exactly what 3 minute video u are talking about because I watched it before I found yours thanks man I’m trying to get the will power to go and get that can of worms done and over with cuz is needed haha
I'm going to try this on my 96 hd 3/4.
I'm shocked yours lasted this long but as old as yours I would replace everything and I mean all 4 lines condenser, 100 percent new GM ,
Your doing the expensive part.
If I had to redo it I probably would have just done the compressor! The volume of air that comes out of the system is disappointing although it being cold was a nice consolation. LOL
@@jperrod1979just got it charged up and blowing about 40 degrees.
I can tell you that it's not easy, probably much easier now because of the back screws that are in the garage, this is not a job for everyone but if you want to create new bad words this is for you.
AC shop wanted 1400.00 definitely worth it and I spent 400 on evaporator , dryer, Freon, gauges, pump ,
I used the gauges for e vack and used a short blue hose from a 18 ounce canister of Freon, I did have a vacuum leak at the top pipe going to the dryer.
Luckily I did some contracting work for a guy that owns a commercial AC
Company and I called him and he was close by and we had to pressurize with nitrogen gas , like I said not for everyone.
thx i was look for the bc like you the evp core did the same thing
Good to know it's doable. Thanks
thanks for the insight 👍 so how smoothly did the new evap go back in ? im about to tackle same job i bought everything new but compressor !
I'm about to tackle this myself on my '99 Tahoe. After removing the cover, and disconnecting the lines, etc. how difficult was it to actually get the core out? Thanks for this video - makes it WAY less intidimating, and I'm an experienced DIY mechanic (shout out to EricTheCarGuy and ChrisFix) I've done TONS of difficult, advanced work on all of my vehicles. Videos like this are why I've saved thousands of dollars in auto repair.
I’m actually also about to do the same to my 99 Tahoe. Actually If my accumulator comes out easily then I’ll just flush my evap instead without removing it but this video helped alot to get my mind ready in case I have to cut my evap off as well. Good luck
I just did it this past weekend, it was very very very tight against the carpet/insulation and the drain hole was a pain. But I had a big pry bar and a good helper and we got it done. I still think much easier then removing the whole dash. I really appreciate this guys video for giving the overview of how to do it.
There is an easier way. But it's not for those who have mint cherry trucks. Since mine is just an old beater it didn't bother me.
Take it out through the engine compartment. I found a video showing where to cut the firewall to remove it. When you're done you make a cover plate for the hole. I cut a patch panel from the side of an old washing machine. Any piece of metal would work. Spray painted it with duplicolor matching paint, ran a bead of silicone and used self tapping screws to hold it in place. Once everything is in place you can't even tell.
The video I watched did fail to mention one screw inside the evaporator case that prevented it from sliding out easily. I cut it off with a sawsall. If I ever have to replace the evaporator again I just have to remove the panel I made. The factory should have made access from the engine compartment.
Another super fun project is replacing the blend door actuator. It also has a screw from hades. I got it out but it's impossible to replace. I put the easy screw in and jammed a rubber ball in the gap to hold it in place. Later on I found a tool called a Tite Reach that would make the job easy.
EXCELLENT. YOU DA MAN! THANKS.
Just completed on my 98 C2500. Very helpful in finding all the screws. Be sure to reinstall the enclosure before you reattach refrigeration lines to the evap. I wanted to pressure test prior to reassembly ( mistake ). Made it very very difficult to put the enclosure back in place.
you don't have to add freon to test for leaks just vaccum it and watch the gauge at -30 if it holds at that for 30 minutes i call it good
@@DirtyMikeHoncho And if it does not hold you no longer have the option to top it off due to air in the system. even if it is a very small leak
@@scottlange2766 a very small leak will not hold vaccum for 30 minutes
@@scottlange2766 any leak will not allow the system to hold a vaccum. if it doesnt hold the vaccum its leaking. you must be new lol
I pressure test with nitrogen and a small amount of refrigerant so i can use a leak detector to test connections
Awesome Sir
This is probably a dumb question but are the two hole in the firewall big enough to get the nuts on the evaporator lines, thru? I may have to do this on my 97 K1500 Pickup.
Thanks! That center section is a SOB to remove. I'm removing the A/C and hoping to increase the air flow for the heater on a plow truck. The design of the heater core being somewhat blocked off there had me curious. Maybe I can cut the part of the plastic open to increase airflow.
It's funny you say that because I was also kind of disappointed with the amount of airflow even with a brand new blower motor and obviously new everything else. I think it is just the nature of the beast in these older trucks. I will say that it did get very cool in the truck
@@jperrod1979 I was finally able to assemble the heater core housing last night. I did cut that center section out that sort of deflects the air away from the heater core. Boy, quite a difference.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the correct way to do this is to take the dash out. The reason why is the motors on the mixer doors are notorious for failing. I wouldn't do this job with replacing those as well. My point is clearly this will get the system running, but if the mixer doors fail in a month or two you are right back to square one. If the air is not flowing you may already have a mixer door failure.
I think the hardest part of putting it back together was getting it to line up with the mixer door module area piece to the left of it. In my frustration and wiggling things back into place I ended up breaking one of the spring contraptions that connects to the door Motors. Mine seem to be functioning properly though because they do actually shift from lower dash foot to blowing in your face to blowing onto the dash like they should. We will see I guess if I ever have to revisit it I may do a dash drop but I really was not looking forward to doing that.
Also if my understanding was correct on the mixer door assuming that's also the blend door actuator wouldn't that mainly affect whether or not it was allowing heater core air to mix in which would not affect volume? When it's hot it's hot and when it's cold it's ice cold so I don't think I have that issue either.
respectfully after doing this job i don’t recommend replacing evaporator core this way !!!!!! my plenum broke in the same exact places and i don’t believe it’s from being old and brittle! i think it’s because to get the plenum out those areas will most likely snap and if you try to JB weld it will only break again trying to get it back in at least on the drivers side area that broke ….on the drivers side of plenum that broke had to stay out ! and around the drain port on passenger side i had to JB weld and it held but i had to shave the outside part of the seal channel right next to the drivers side of the drain port going up for it to slide up and mate and screw holes to align !
You’ve done enough bro. I told you not to touch the dryer but you didn’t listen
Do it once. Do it right. Be a man, ruin your own day.
Can you show a 2 year update to how the air pressure is holding up?
A lot easier than the newer style Silverado's !!
Did you know that nut that you pointed out that was different metals and seized was a reverse thread ?
Savior
I kinda hope the pre 95 version is the same, you look at the dash wrong and a giant crack will appear
Advance to 11 to avoid the maddening repetition
Ok bro ! Getting that bottom box part off is not too bad … but getting it back up on there ! That’s a pain in the complete ass !
It really was the worst part!
Wait so if I don’t even need to change the heater core do I still have to disconnect it? Also do I have to drain coolant to do this job?
Yes, I think you still need to remove it to get this out...and I don't recall messing with coolant, I think I just clipped the hoses off
That’s awesome let’s see how bad it is 😅
Thank you for posting this I'm fixing to do this very job myself on my 95 halftime. By the way the pickup version of OBS standard cab and extended cab holds 34 oz of r134. Where did you get that molded floorboard mat from?
I ordered it from autoanything. It is auto anything brand along with the second row and the cargo area
man really said "there is no displacement for replacement" @2:49 lololol
LOL...misheard lyrics are just one of my gifts. :)
I been 3 years now without A/C or Heat in my OBS C3500 because for the Love of..... I cannot get the blasted evap duct work to go back in without breaking that duct panel! Part of it has to slide in between the evaporator and the firewall, but I cannot get it to go that far back without the panel catching on the evap fins and then breaking the plastic panel if I try to force it. What the heck gives???? I'd pay good money to see a video on RUclips showing a process to get this lower A/C duct panel back in without screwing it up! Arghhhhh!
Where'd you get the floor mat?
Hmmm...autoanything, I think
Thanks for the video, but damnit man. Just show me the "one" lol.
Damn, this reminds me of junior high story problems where you have to sift through piles of data to get to the one relevant piece of information. Definitely could be edited down significantly, maybe 70% deletion?
But then you wouldn't get to hear my voice. Sad. I am working on shortening my vids to just what matters...work with me!
I wonder if using a scope camera would take some of the pain away looking for the screws. I think I gotta do mine. Stupid GM
Honestly, just use your fingers to feel.
There's really only ONE that sucks badly and believe me I didn't put it back in. You can feel and then use your finger to gauge what kinda extensions to use
@@jperrod1979 thanks for the info in fact I just went down and talked to the mechanic and he quoted me $450 to remove the dash and another $90 for the evaporator and suggested for another 60 he would install the new heater core. But if I don't have to remove the dash and can do your trick I'll save me $450 thanks again
Wow, I was hoping for a real way to remove the Evap. But you showed nothing of the sort. You showed screw locations. Which is a little help, but not what I was wanting.
He'll yeah cut it
The Cheese?
God damn bro. This video should have been no more than 120 seconds long. You repeated yourself constantly. Your ramblings were painful. I just need to know how many fasteners hold it in.
Life is pain. You needed to know how many fasteners there were. I needed you to hear me repeat myself. The sad irony is only one of us walked away satisfied. Probably just a regular Saturday night though for you. 😅
Ha! I do appreciate the video. I was so frustrated with that thing. I'm sorry I came off like an ass. You'll have to forgive me 🙄
All good, man. I feel your pain. It was one of the more frustrating repairs I've had to make. Honestly, it's good feedback...I do need to repeat myself less and be more concise, so thanks for that.
Dude, good video but could have been great. We don't care about your T shirt, neighbor's muffler, prior owner's cell phone, or pile of screws. Stay on topic; edit out the ADHD distractions. And for crying out loud stop with the frantic camera movement and explaining things that are not in frame.
Talk to much