I installed thousands of those dashboards when I worked at GM. A lot of the stuff that you removed is all assembled on it the IP line and the whole assembly is installed in one piece. The lower parts are installed after IP is inside cab. Of course the steering column and seats are in stalled afterwards. 👍on the video
How come you didn’t make a video ⁉️but you right and there’s so many that do that well want tell other stuff at lease this guy don’t talk about all the information that has nothing to do with the job at hand ‼️I think him for having the only one that’s straight on what the video about‼️🙏🏻🙏🏻☮️
You did an amazing job on this video. I used it as a guide to pull the dash out of my 1995 Chevy Silverado Z71. You didn't miss a thing. I could not get my dash past the steering wheel. I actually broke it while trying. I went ahead and removed the steering column to put it back in. That worked really well, but it's a pain. I have not found a good video on removing and rebuilding the air box. That would be a good addition to this one.
I'm in the middle of pulling the dash because I can't get the damned air box back in. All because I wanted the warranty on the AC parts. Tried to replace the accumulator, ripped the hose.
I was getting charge $1400.00 to swap the dashboard on my 1996 chevy. Not including what I paid for the one I got. I decided to do it myself thanks to your video, nice job, there is no other like it out there. Thank you.
Thank you for making this. I would have never even attempted this job without this video. Thanks for taking the time to make this. I watched it three times and almost didnt even try it. Also thanks for mentioning the differences vetween the 1997 headlight connection compared to the 1998 and 1999. You the Man!
My dash was really busted up from previous owner. It rattled so much it was so annoying to drive. I went to salvage yard today and pulled the only one they had the color I needed and out of a 99 Tahoe. I made a small mistake though by not being more aware of the vehicle I pulled it from. It was a 2WD so it did not have the electronic wiring harness that was needed to plug in my auto trac 4 WD switch. I ended up having to remove the ventilation duct and removing the wiring harness and reinstalling it on the new dash. Just a note to make sure the vehicle you pull one out of have the same options so that you can plug and play instead of having to do what I did. Video helped a ton. One thing I would note is that I feel like it is not necessary to remove to ash tray and 12 V charging ports. All of those plugs come out with the dash. Thanks again for the video.
@@tonybunch9115 See my comment above. When you have both cores in hand, it's easy to reroute the harness from one to the other. My '99 Burb has the pigtail for the 4WD switch tucked around the instrument panel, even though it's a 2WD truck. I guess GM used a full harness instead of a lite version, but even my '97 donor truck has the same thing. Who knows why they made that choice... was the Tahoe also built in the same plant in Mexico?
thanks for this. I been had the parts to finish redoing the entire A/C system and needed access to remove the heater core. this will save me lots of money!!!
At first glace, it looks like a nightmare but after seeing it out, it doesn't look difficult at all. Need to pull mine so I can get started on body work as its getting new paint inside and out. Replace all the components under the dash (blower, actuator, heater core etc) clean it all up, do some preventive maintenance to stop dash cracking before it starts and get the dash cage powder coated as the thought of rust irritates the shit out of me to no end. Right now only two of the little screw holes in the vent up top are cracked (luckily). New din and a half stereo conversion and black everything out. Great video. Saving it for reference.
@@MrTaxiRob Not 100% sure. A layer of carbon fiber or fiberglass on the bottom side has been a thought. I know dynamat and such has the ability to flex so thats out. My dash is near perfect except the center bolt clip on top is broke so I'm going to plastic weld it from the under side and the one towards the passenger side is cracked about half way so it needs intervention as well. After seeing what a brand new dash costs plus shipping of such an item, I want to prolong the life of this one as long as possible. They have those plastic molded tops for badly cracked dashes but I'm not a fan of masking a problem because it would irritate me to no end knowing whats under it is still garbage.
LMC Truck makes a beautiful replacement dash for the 92-94 GMT400s...I installed one in my 93 Suburban and it's fantastic. Now I think they need to hurry up and offer a replacement dash for these later-model GMT400s!
@@gerardolopez5875 honestly, I'm not a professional mechanic, so I won't even offer a quote. Around me mechanics charge up to $120 an hour, Inline say he did it in 2-3 hours, so that's $360 max.... BUT professionals don't charge for actual time, they charge whatever their labor charts say they SHOULD charge for the job, so it might be a 5 hour minimum or something like that. I think the standardized labor times come from an industry group of manufacturers and insurers deciding on standard rates to make collision and warranty claims easier to manage. They used to have them all listed in actual books, nowadays they're probably all online. So unless you lack the workspace or have a disability that prevents you from doing the work, I highly encourage you to do it yourself and save enough $ for a nice new stereo head unit.
Thank you for taking the time to make this. I’ve decided to remove my dash in a 98 to help with access to add components for swapping from auto to manual transmission
A very well presented video . My search of RUclips has lead me to many but unfortunately many where an utter waste of time.I have a 99 yukon that the dash needs to be overhauled. Your insight will help me immensely. Cheers and Thank You.
I recommend having one of those interior panel clip tools on hand, the forked thingy with the regular screwdriver handle. It's good for gently pulling the push clips for the wiring loom and whichever plug ends are also clipped to the truck. And do it when the dash is nice and warm so they give easy instead of snapping, maybe leave it in the sun an hour or so before you start separating the wiring harness from your donor dash. Piece of cake. Also: REMEMBER TO REINSTALL THE SECTION OF METAL BAR UNDER THE STEERING COLUMN before you try and pull the dash, otherwise the whole thing gets floppy and you're going to snap it in half. Even if you intend to throw it away, it's MUCH easier to pull it and remove the wiring with it in one piece.
This video doesn't show ALL of what needs to be unplugged tho, I just took mine out today and I released after following all these steps once you loosen the top 3 screws there's still 4 wires on the driver side behind the dash and 3 or is it 4 wires on the passenger side that still need to be unplugged B4 you get to take it out without a problem. Also it works better if you remove the steering column all the way. Although this video was ALOT of help, so thank you for that.
I could describe most OBS repairs as "tedious," but not necessarily "difficult." This is the first dash removal vid that actually shows what need to be unplugged without cutting any wires as a dismantler might do... although why anyone would butcher a perfectly good dash harness just to sell a dash core boggles my mind. That's like cutting a perfectly good transmission in half to pull an engine. If you're doing a same year swap, all the plug ends should be the same including the airbags, so it's easier to leave the harness in place. I have to do a 97-99 swap, so unfortunately that's not the case for me, but at least I'll still have two running and driving trucks when I'm done. I can swap the harnesses with both cores on the bench, easy peasy. One core is mint and the other gets epoxied, one truck is for show and the other is for work. Not everyone can do a destructive removal, so thanks again.
I listened & watched 4 other videos on how to remove my glovebox & none have the same mechanism as yours. Mine is like yours. I tried to remove it just like the other folks were showing but mine has that little plastic "stick" on the side of mine. Just like in yours. I need to swap out my resistor as I lost high speed. I got the part at Advance & was going to try & do it but no dice. I'm dealing with all plastic. Plastic is very easy to break in my hands. I wanted to push it but I know I would mangle it. So I stopped before I broke something. I figured the other videos were without that plastic stick in the left hand side. My tool box has a 1 pound hammer & a 3 pound hammer & a sledge hammer. Finesse is not my forte.
Hey man thanks for the video it helped me a lot putting the dash in I'm having trouble putting it back in though I forgot where the one of the plugs go for the firewall and the harness if you can make a video of you putting it back in or something like that I would greatly appreciate it
Great vedeo and great explanation it's really crap work mate 😃 I hope I never ever need to replace on my 95 suburban 6.5 😃😃 you understand well enough for replacing that caind of the pieces 🤔👏👏👏👌I don't like wires and electronics stuffs 🤪🤪 I prefer replacing a mechanical parts 😃👍cheers from Norway 👍👋
Agreed this is a great video, thank you. Did mine last week now truck won’t start. Engine turns over but won’t start. I’m wondering if maybe there is a ground wire under the dash that I missed ?
you're doing this job harder than it needs to be. I'll replace the dash in my 98 z71 without getting under the hood. If you had removed the steering column then you'd been able to unplug all of the dash components without having to pull the wiring harness through the fire wall. I have short vids when i replaced the oem dash top having to take the dash out and put it back in in the 04 dodge crew i previously owned. NUFF SAID.
You don’t even remove the steering column, just unbolt it completely and it will drop to the floor with the dash then you can just unbolt/unplug the harness from the back of the dash and then you can pull your dash out
Great and informative video. The fasteners you are calling 7mm are actually 9/32", but a 7mm will work. GM likes to use 9/32" and 7/32" for many of the smaller screws, especially on 60's, 70's, and 80's vehicles, which are what I used to work on. I would like to replace the dash in my '95 Silverado because around the 3 screws by the windshield the dash is cracking causing the dash to rattle and bounce up and down when hitting bumps in the road. Thanks again and take care Buddy.
Here's the disassembly order I used. A small flat blade screwdriver and one of those interior panel clip tools will be helpful for separating electric plugs and the clips that hold them in place: disconnect battery computer & cradle (just swing it out of the way, no need to unplug but do remove the cradle) breaker/relay box (3 bolts under the fender and one on top) steering column link to lower shaft 5 plugs from top (white plastic) part of of harness (lights, wiper motor, cruise control, plug below brake booster) next is lower dash, from right to left, including the kick panels and fusebox steering column, should only be 3 plugs total including one hidden above it, linkage and shift interlock switch REPLACE the steel tube that supports the column after removal so the dash core doesn't flex and crack during removal gut the top half of the dash except airbag, no need to bother with it if your donor is good SUPPORT the center of the dash before pulling the top bolts and the bolt at each kick panel take a whole hour and maybe smoke a bowl, now you'll probably want help tilt the dash toward the seats and disconnect the three plugs above the column space and all the plugs going to the climate control system on the passenger side fish out the antenna cable and pay attention to how it's routed use your friend to help you lift the whole dash out in one piece very slowly, paying attention to see if you missed any plugs Set about swapping over your fully intact wiring harness to your new dash like a goddamn boss reverse the whole process and buy yourself a steak dinner, you earned it because you just saved a grand in labor
Is all this necessary in order to get a dead mouse and mouse nest out of the heating vents? I bought a c3500 not knowing the moment I turned the floor and windshield defrost on that I’d get that lovely smell of dead mouse and nesting debris blowing out. It sucks.
So this video has helped me a lot removing and reinstalling my dash but the wiring doesn’t want to work correctly I’ve rewatched the video and I’ve got a plug that I can figure out where it goes and my headlights now blink with my hazards and my ignition doesn’t work do you know what that could be
First let me start by saying THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!! I actually did it. But now I have a little bit of a dilemma I was wondering if you could maybe help with. I’m having trouble putting it back on. I tried just watching the video in reverse, but I’m still lost. Any way you could lend me some assistance or advice?? It would be more appreciated than I could ever express. Please and thank you.
Oh damn I cut the wiring out in the cab of a 96 cause i wanted to dash for my 98, is there anyway to remove the harness from the dash itself and swap it over?
@@inlinepaintandbody All done! Just took my time and made sure not to miss any wire connections. I worked from the passenger side across to the driver side. At some point I was folding up the dash and the shift interlock solenoid broke off and fell down to the carpet. I wasn't sure what it was, but figured it out and bought a new one ($90). Also, years ago a friend installed an alarm system, so I had to take my time to figure out the wiring. I took a lot of pictures of the connections I removed and that really helped. I was patient with the wiring and it took me three mornings in the garage (to hot to work in the afternoons) to complete the job. Thanks for taking time to create this video!
Aha! thank you! Subscribed and liked. The pace of the video is fast but likely everyone else likes that, it has all the important bits though. Now if you could show the removal and reinstall of all the roof components on a suburban lol. Need to repaint.
T30 will not let the black box on the firewall come off, no matter which way i spin it, either way it get really loose midway through wrenching it but gets tighter then the socket just jumps, I have no clue what’s causing it to not come loose, I did this on another truck with no issues
My 98 K1500 has been LS swapped and the guy before me messed up something with the wiring (I assume sensors not hooked up) that caused the instrument cluster not to read anything. Lol greeeeat.
@@Monster404ftp I’m not much of an expert on electrical issues, but there is a lot of information on wiring with an LS swap. And also finding a guy who can diagnose electrical issues is worth 1 million bucks. Definitely get what you pay for when dealing with electrical issues and fixing them.
Thanks for the video man it really helps me a lot If you see my text a quick question I have a chevy suburban 99 and chevy suburban gmc 99 are all the wires in the dash is the same Thanks and God bless you
I'm sure they are the same. But when you have both removed its easy to swap the wiring harness over if they are different. Heater core plugs might be different
Don't know if you ever figured it out but the computer doesn't have to be removed the black bar if you pick up a little it moves over and the computer slides out the holder
Question about the 98 parts truck, is the immobilizer system part of the steering column wiring ? Ive got a 98 parts truck im getting ready to pull the dash from and its got the security immobilizer, but the 97 its going into doesnt
I think so. I swapped the dash from the 97 in the video with a dash from a 98. Everything from the 97 dash moved over into the 98 and vice versa. Installed this 97 dash with 98 guts back into the 98. 98 wouldn't start. Tuned the vats out of the truck and fired right up.
Can you get the dash up and out of the way enough to replace the temperature mix motor without uninstalling the wiring? The dash bar is right in the way of removing one screw.
Awesome vid, love. The wires that do not match up, that you mention towards the end (97to98). Did you take the wires out of the 97 and install in the 98 to match? What was your solution?
find a big space, maybe lay a blanket down on your garage floor and set them side by side. Remove the harness you want to use and replace the second one hole by hole. Take lots of pictures just in case. It's pretty intuitive, though.
Do I need to remove the dash in order to swap out the top plastic? I bought a parts truck and it has no cracks on the dash. Would like to put it on my daily which is all cracked n jacked. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
This is a great video, very helpful. I need to replace this exact dash you just took out. Having a hard time finding one. Any suggestion on where to look to find one (especially in decent condition)?
@@inlinepaintandbody OK, have a 96 Tahoe with a great body and good chassis. I want to paint the dash but not have to get it towed back and forth to the shop for major mechanical work broken up over the next month. Thanks!
I just eliminated the whole plastic dash it's junk and any attempt at replacement is a huge waste of time as the next one will break as well Make a cardboard pattern and water jet a beautiful aluminum T56 dash.
Aside from the fact that this video is incredibly helpful and nice and to the point (thank you) i am so curious to know, are you in a parking lot? or is this your home and the driveway is weird? Just casual passing curiosity. Thanks again for the video man!
I want to change my rotted 1998 cab with a better 1989 cab, will I be able to take out and switch the two dashes or is there too much to adapt and modify? Or will the mounting points all match up?
What kind of truck? The pickup trucks changed to NBS a year before the SUVs. 95-99 SUV dash cores should all mount the same way, with slight differences in the wiring harness.
I took my dash so that my mehcanic can replace it …. The stop lamps don’t work and the 4x4 button switch ain’t working ….. where can I look to fix these
It’s the connection from a 1998 same as 1999 C1500. You said the connection from a 1997 is circle harness and 1998 it’s a like scare. Just wondering if the connections from a 1998 same as 1999
Alright bro I have a dash from a 97 I’m putting it in my 1990 Chevy but I junk the truck but I decided I might as well swap the whole engine with the harness so I can just plug everything in the same so I bought a 1998 but like you said at 20:34 the plug is different and to the headlights to what can I do?
Swap headlight harness or get wiring diagrams and re-pin the plugs to make it work. I believe it's all the same wires, colors and all, just different plugs
Question man ! Do i have to remove everything from the dash just so i can replace the top part of the dash cover or can can i just take of the 3 screws and put the new one that im going to order ???
Yes you have to remove everything just to replace the top dash pad. That pad is one big piece that wraps around the metal frame that's bolted to the firewall
I know this video is old so I have to take out the ac system to replace the evap ac cause mine is leaking should I follow exactly these steps or should I go a different route
If you need the dash fully removed then this is how it's done. It's really not super difficult to remove. Just label and organize your hardware. All the electrical plugs are different so you can't confuse them
Many of the trim pieces, controls, and connector you took out move with the dash and didn’t have to be removed. Extra work for no reason, but I bet you figured that out afterward. Good video over all.
@@inlinepaintandbody So to fix a crack on the dash, fill and paint, you have to take the entire dash out? The cover is not removable as it is on a 2003 as a part?
You make this job look much less daunting. It's the wiring removal that stresses me out. Can't find any videos of what to unplug. Glad you made this
I installed thousands of those dashboards when I worked at GM. A lot of the stuff that you removed is all assembled on it the IP line and the whole assembly is installed in one piece. The lower parts are installed after IP is inside cab. Of course the steering column and seats are in stalled afterwards.
👍on the video
How is the passenger airbag installed in these trucks burner Loco?
How come you didn’t make a video ⁉️but you right and there’s so many that do that well want tell other stuff at lease this guy don’t talk about all the information that has nothing to do with the job at hand ‼️I think him for having the only one that’s straight on what the video about‼️🙏🏻🙏🏻☮️
You did an amazing job on this video. I used it as a guide to pull the dash out of my 1995 Chevy Silverado Z71. You didn't miss a thing. I could not get my dash past the steering wheel. I actually broke it while trying. I went ahead and removed the steering column to put it back in. That worked really well, but it's a pain. I have not found a good video on removing and rebuilding the air box. That would be a good addition to this one.
I’m about to have to do this as well to get to the air box any tips? I have a 95 z71 as well.Do you have to completey remove it to get to the air box?
I'm in the middle of pulling the dash because I can't get the damned air box back in. All because I wanted the warranty on the AC parts. Tried to replace the accumulator, ripped the hose.
I was getting charge $1400.00 to swap the dashboard on my 1996 chevy. Not including what I paid for the one I got.
I decided to do it myself thanks to your video, nice job, there is no other like it out there. Thank you.
Thank you for making this. I would have never even attempted this job without this video. Thanks for taking the time to make this. I watched it three times and almost didnt even try it. Also thanks for mentioning the differences vetween the 1997 headlight connection compared to the 1998 and 1999. You the Man!
My dash was really busted up from previous owner. It rattled so much it was so annoying to drive. I went to salvage yard today and pulled the only one they had the color I needed and out of a 99 Tahoe. I made a small mistake though by not being more aware of the vehicle I pulled it from. It was a 2WD so it did not have the electronic wiring harness that was needed to plug in my auto trac 4 WD switch. I ended up having to remove the ventilation duct and removing the wiring harness and reinstalling it on the new dash. Just a note to make sure the vehicle you pull one out of have the same options so that you can plug and play instead of having to do what I did. Video helped a ton. One thing I would note is that I feel like it is not necessary to remove to ash tray and 12 V charging ports. All of those plugs come out with the dash. Thanks again for the video.
How can I be the man when you're already the man?
@@tonybunch9115 See my comment above. When you have both cores in hand, it's easy to reroute the harness from one to the other. My '99 Burb has the pigtail for the 4WD switch tucked around the instrument panel, even though it's a 2WD truck. I guess GM used a full harness instead of a lite version, but even my '97 donor truck has the same thing. Who knows why they made that choice... was the Tahoe also built in the same plant in Mexico?
@@MrTaxiRob The plugins i needed were not in the dash I bought. I would have gladly used the existing lol. It was a pain to change out.
thanks for this. I been had the parts to finish redoing the entire A/C system and needed access to remove the heater core. this will save me lots of money!!!
I installed my heater core on my 98 in under an hour. Not as difficult as it seems I had more trouble putting the covers back on than anything else
At first glace, it looks like a nightmare but after seeing it out, it doesn't look difficult at all. Need to pull mine so I can get started on body work as its getting new paint inside and out. Replace all the components under the dash (blower, actuator, heater core etc) clean it all up, do some preventive maintenance to stop dash cracking before it starts and get the dash cage powder coated as the thought of rust irritates the shit out of me to no end. Right now only two of the little screw holes in the vent up top are cracked (luckily). New din and a half stereo conversion and black everything out. Great video. Saving it for reference.
Glad you liked the video
What kind of preventative maintenance are you talking about? Are you going to coat them with something, apply a backing material, etc.?
@@MrTaxiRob Not 100% sure. A layer of carbon fiber or fiberglass on the bottom side has been a thought. I know dynamat and such has the ability to flex so thats out. My dash is near perfect except the center bolt clip on top is broke so I'm going to plastic weld it from the under side and the one towards the passenger side is cracked about half way so it needs intervention as well. After seeing what a brand new dash costs plus shipping of such an item, I want to prolong the life of this one as long as possible. They have those plastic molded tops for badly cracked dashes but I'm not a fan of masking a problem because it would irritate me to no end knowing whats under it is still garbage.
LMC Truck makes a beautiful replacement dash for the 92-94 GMT400s...I installed one in my 93 Suburban and it's fantastic. Now I think they need to hurry up and offer a replacement dash for these later-model GMT400s!
Thank you so much. Couldn't have done it without you.
Thank you for this video, I now know I would not remove my dash if 5,000 dollars had fell down in behind it !
Lmao. It really isn't that hard
Agreed 👍
Excellent tutorial! It does not look like an easy job but with your help it looks much better than finding everything on the fly. Thank you!
Thanks for the comment. I appreciate the kind words
@@inlinepaintandbody @ hiw much would be the labor cost?? Dash replacement
I can assure you it's easier than it looks, it just takes some patience and time. Well worth the savings on labor to have someone else do it.
@@MrTaxiRob @ how much would u charge ? Labor if u had to do it for someone else
@@gerardolopez5875 honestly, I'm not a professional mechanic, so I won't even offer a quote. Around me mechanics charge up to $120 an hour, Inline say he did it in 2-3 hours, so that's $360 max.... BUT professionals don't charge for actual time, they charge whatever their labor charts say they SHOULD charge for the job, so it might be a 5 hour minimum or something like that.
I think the standardized labor times come from an industry group of manufacturers and insurers deciding on standard rates to make collision and warranty claims easier to manage. They used to have them all listed in actual books, nowadays they're probably all online.
So unless you lack the workspace or have a disability that prevents you from doing the work, I highly encourage you to do it yourself and save enough $ for a nice new stereo head unit.
I try to avoid that job but sometimes it just has to be done great vid very informative thank you.
Thank you
Thank you for taking the time to make this. I’ve decided to remove my dash in a 98 to help with access to add components for swapping from auto to manual transmission
There isn’t any need to remove the dash to do a manual swap
Your video a lot better just because all the others try and be funny are talk about other stuff that has nothing to do to the repairs ‼️☮️
A very well presented video . My search of RUclips has lead me to many but unfortunately many where an utter waste of time.I have a 99 yukon that the dash needs to be overhauled. Your insight will help me immensely. Cheers and Thank You.
Thank you. I appreciate it 🙏
how did it turn out, Mark?
I recommend having one of those interior panel clip tools on hand, the forked thingy with the regular screwdriver handle. It's good for gently pulling the push clips for the wiring loom and whichever plug ends are also clipped to the truck. And do it when the dash is nice and warm so they give easy instead of snapping, maybe leave it in the sun an hour or so before you start separating the wiring harness from your donor dash. Piece of cake.
Also: REMEMBER TO REINSTALL THE SECTION OF METAL BAR UNDER THE STEERING COLUMN before you try and pull the dash, otherwise the whole thing gets floppy and you're going to snap it in half. Even if you intend to throw it away, it's MUCH easier to pull it and remove the wiring with it in one piece.
Those tools are great,...until you lose it!
Very handy
This video doesn't show ALL of what needs to be unplugged tho, I just took mine out today and I released after following all these steps once you loosen the top 3 screws there's still 4 wires on the driver side behind the dash and 3 or is it 4 wires on the passenger side that still need to be unplugged B4 you get to take it out without a problem. Also it works better if you remove the steering column all the way. Although this video was ALOT of help, so thank you for that.
I could describe most OBS repairs as "tedious," but not necessarily "difficult." This is the first dash removal vid that actually shows what need to be unplugged without cutting any wires as a dismantler might do... although why anyone would butcher a perfectly good dash harness just to sell a dash core boggles my mind. That's like cutting a perfectly good transmission in half to pull an engine.
If you're doing a same year swap, all the plug ends should be the same including the airbags, so it's easier to leave the harness in place. I have to do a 97-99 swap, so unfortunately that's not the case for me, but at least I'll still have two running and driving trucks when I'm done.
I can swap the harnesses with both cores on the bench, easy peasy. One core is mint and the other gets epoxied, one truck is for show and the other is for work. Not everyone can do a destructive removal, so thanks again.
They still have heavy metal in them. Easy to body work
I listened & watched 4 other videos on how to remove my glovebox & none have the same mechanism as yours. Mine is like yours. I tried to remove it just like the other folks were showing but mine has that little plastic "stick" on the side of mine. Just like in yours. I need to swap out my resistor as I lost high speed. I got the part at Advance & was going to try & do it but no dice. I'm dealing with all plastic. Plastic is very easy to break in my hands. I wanted to push it but I know I would mangle it. So I stopped before I broke something. I figured the other videos were without that plastic stick in the left hand side. My tool box has a 1 pound hammer & a 3 pound hammer & a sledge hammer. Finesse is not my forte.
This has been the most useful vid I've seen and it applys for my 99 tahoe too
Hey man thanks for the video it helped me a lot putting the dash in I'm having trouble putting it back in though I forgot where the one of the plugs go for the firewall and the harness if you can make a video of you putting it back in or something like that I would greatly appreciate it
Great vedeo and great explanation it's really crap work mate 😃 I hope I never ever need to replace on my 95 suburban 6.5 😃😃 you understand well enough for replacing that caind of the pieces 🤔👏👏👏👌I don't like wires and electronics stuffs 🤪🤪 I prefer replacing a mechanical parts 😃👍cheers from Norway 👍👋
Agreed this is a great video, thank you. Did mine last week now truck won’t start. Engine turns over but won’t start. I’m wondering if maybe there is a ground wire under the dash that I missed ?
Could be security system locking you out. I deleted that system with an aftermarket tuner
Wait, these trucks have security? You didn’t mention anything about that the entire video not about the wiring harness or the system itself at all
you're doing this job harder than it needs to be. I'll replace the dash in my 98 z71 without getting under the hood. If you had removed the steering column then you'd been able to unplug all of the dash components without having to pull the wiring harness through the fire wall. I have short vids when i replaced the oem dash top having to take the dash out and put it back in in the 04 dodge crew i previously owned. NUFF SAID.
Wish I read this before doing all that 💀
@@turle8645me too😂
You don’t even remove the steering column, just unbolt it completely and it will drop to the floor with the dash then you can just unbolt/unplug the harness from the back of the dash and then you can pull your dash out
Post the video so we can refer to it
Great and informative video. The fasteners you are calling 7mm are actually 9/32", but a 7mm will work. GM likes to use 9/32" and 7/32" for many of the smaller screws, especially on 60's, 70's, and 80's vehicles, which are what I used to work on. I would like to replace the dash in my '95 Silverado because around the 3 screws by the windshield the dash is cracking causing the dash to rattle and bounce up and down when hitting bumps in the road. Thanks again and take care Buddy.
Here's the disassembly order I used. A small flat blade screwdriver and one of those interior panel clip tools will be helpful for separating electric plugs and the clips that hold them in place:
disconnect battery
computer & cradle (just swing it out of the way, no need to unplug but do remove the cradle)
breaker/relay box (3 bolts under the fender and one on top)
steering column link to lower shaft
5 plugs from top (white plastic) part of of harness (lights, wiper motor, cruise control, plug below brake booster)
next is lower dash, from right to left, including the kick panels and fusebox
steering column, should only be 3 plugs total including one hidden above it, linkage and shift interlock switch
REPLACE the steel tube that supports the column after removal so the dash core doesn't flex and crack during removal
gut the top half of the dash except airbag, no need to bother with it if your donor is good
SUPPORT the center of the dash before pulling the top bolts and the bolt at each kick panel
take a whole hour and maybe smoke a bowl, now you'll probably want help
tilt the dash toward the seats and disconnect the three plugs above the column space and all the plugs going to the climate control system on the passenger side
fish out the antenna cable and pay attention to how it's routed
use your friend to help you lift the whole dash out in one piece very slowly, paying attention to see if you missed any plugs
Set about swapping over your fully intact wiring harness to your new dash like a goddamn boss
reverse the whole process and buy yourself a steak dinner, you earned it because you just saved a grand in labor
Great plan
wow! EXCELLENT video my man!
Appreciate it!
Is all this necessary in order to get a dead mouse and mouse nest out of the heating vents? I bought a c3500 not knowing the moment I turned the floor and windshield defrost on that I’d get that lovely smell of dead mouse and nesting debris blowing out. It sucks.
Yes 100% You want to get all of that mess out. That stuff is toxic. Removr everything, clean it really well or get new stuff
So this video has helped me a lot removing and reinstalling my dash but the wiring doesn’t want to work correctly I’ve rewatched the video and I’ve got a plug that I can figure out where it goes and my headlights now blink with my hazards and my ignition doesn’t work do you know what that could be
The parking brake handle comes off of the shaft and the mount for the shaft twists out. No need to disconnect cabling in the back.
First let me start by saying THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!! I actually did it. But now I have a little bit of a dilemma I was wondering if you could maybe help with. I’m having trouble putting it back on. I tried just watching the video in reverse, but I’m still lost. Any way you could lend me some assistance or advice?? It would be more appreciated than I could ever express. Please and thank you.
Find me in IG. @INLINEPAINTANDBODY
Dude thank you so much for this video!
You’re welcome. Glad it helped
About to do this on my 97. Gotta replace the hvac distribution box.
Fun times 😆
Oh damn I cut the wiring out in the cab of a 96 cause i wanted to dash for my 98, is there anyway to remove the harness from the dash itself and swap it over?
I'll be tackling this tomorrow. So many wire connectors? This video is giving me some confidence to get it done.
Once you do it you'll realize it ain't that bad
@@inlinepaintandbody All done! Just took my time and made sure not to miss any wire connections. I worked from the passenger side across to the driver side. At some point I was folding up the dash and the shift interlock solenoid broke off and fell down to the carpet. I wasn't sure what it was, but figured it out and bought a new one ($90). Also, years ago a friend installed an alarm system, so I had to take my time to figure out the wiring. I took a lot of pictures of the connections I removed and that really helped. I was patient with the wiring and it took me three mornings in the garage (to hot to work in the afternoons) to complete the job. Thanks for taking time to create this video!
Awesome video!!!! I think I’ll just live without my ac on my 97 gm c3500😳
You should attempt the fix!
Good job! Great video!
Thanks!
Great video man! Well done.
Aha! thank you! Subscribed and liked. The pace of the video is fast but likely everyone else likes that, it has all the important bits though. Now if you could show the removal and reinstall of all the roof components on a suburban lol. Need to repaint.
I hate long drawn out videos. Just get to it
Really good video thank you.
Awesome video!
Yeah it is
THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO!!!!
T30 will not let the black box on the firewall come off, no matter which way i spin it, either way it get really loose midway through wrenching it but gets tighter then the socket just jumps, I have no clue what’s causing it to not come loose, I did this on another truck with no issues
Nut zert must be spinning freely and catching once in a while
@@inlinepaintandbody thank you
Nice video but l am only needing to replace a broken sun damaged dash top and not the whole assembly. Will it not just unclipand lift off?
Like the details. Good vid
Appreciate it. Felt like there wasn't much good out there for dash videos
My 98 K1500 has been LS swapped and the guy before me messed up something with the wiring (I assume sensors not hooked up) that caused the instrument cluster not to read anything. Lol greeeeat.
Luckily not much changed generation to generation. Could be a simple fix
@@inlinepaintandbody The original LT fusebox is still in there and the LS fusebox has maybe one or two fourths of it hooked up.
The only thing is, I've compared the two and I'm not so sure that the pinouts of the connectors would work properly with the LS fusebox.
@@Monster404ftp I’m not much of an expert on electrical issues, but there is a lot of information on wiring with an LS swap. And also finding a guy who can diagnose electrical issues is worth 1 million bucks. Definitely get what you pay for when dealing with electrical issues and fixing them.
Just subed Thanks for the vid!!
Thanks for the video man it really helps me a lot
If you see my text a quick question I have a chevy suburban 99 and chevy suburban gmc 99 are all the wires in the dash is the same
Thanks and God bless you
I'm sure they are the same. But when you have both removed its easy to swap the wiring harness over if they are different. Heater core plugs might be different
SUBSCRIBE! Chasing that 10k subscriber total
Can you post a video on the power window harness for the 97 98 c1500 the harness from the back of the dash board?
Once I start digging further into my project I'll do a video on it. I plan on recording everything I do
So what did you do about the different plugs for the pass-through by the glove box?
Don't know if you ever figured it out but the computer doesn't have to be removed the black bar if you pick up a little it moves over and the computer slides out the holder
would you take the time to help me take out a 96 Sonoma dash to replace a blend door actuator, any help would help me make the right moves
Great stuff bro! Maybe I'll rebuild my 96 4.3L along side you!
Do it bro
Question about the 98 parts truck, is the immobilizer system part of the steering column wiring ? Ive got a 98 parts truck im getting ready to pull the dash from and its got the security immobilizer, but the 97 its going into doesnt
I think so. I swapped the dash from the 97 in the video with a dash from a 98. Everything from the 97 dash moved over into the 98 and vice versa. Installed this 97 dash with 98 guts back into the 98. 98 wouldn't start. Tuned the vats out of the truck and fired right up.
@@inlinepaintandbody how do you tune out the VATS? Is it a chip key or do you really mean Passlock?
@@MrTaxiRob Had a friend with a tuner delete them completely
@@inlinepaintandbody was it a Tech-II scanner? I've heard it can be done but I've never come across the actual procedure..
Can you get the dash up and out of the way enough to replace the temperature mix motor without uninstalling the wiring?
The dash bar is right in the way of removing one screw.
Not sure. If you could unhook all the wiring on the passenger side you might be able to prop that side up
Awesome vid, love. The wires that do not match up, that you mention towards the end (97to98). Did you take the wires out of the 97 and install in the 98 to match? What was your solution?
Swapped dash harnesses
find a big space, maybe lay a blanket down on your garage floor and set them side by side. Remove the harness you want to use and replace the second one hole by hole. Take lots of pictures just in case. It's pretty intuitive, though.
I wanted to know if the harness could be changed without removing entire dash
Definitely not. It’s hooked in and around everything
Very much appreciated this vedio you help me out alot
Glad it helped
Making it look easy! Do you think this will work for a 1999?
Yup same dash
Thanks for the vid but am i able to put the dash back on without moving the steering wheel. Im trying not the crack the new one i got.
Drop the steering column down. Two nuts underneath. Gives you enough room. Have a second set of hands to help you install
@@inlinepaintandbody thanks got my new dash in. You're a big help bro.
@@matthewlandrum2072 I know you're already done, but pulling the driver's seat gives you more room to work.
Can u just change the plastic part if the harness is diferent or the harness can swap?
Once the dash is out it is really easy to swap the harness out
Thanks!
THANK YOU! I really appreciate your generosity here. You made my day
Do I need to remove the dash in order to swap out the top plastic? I bought a parts truck and it has no cracks on the dash. Would like to put it on my daily which is all cracked n jacked. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
btw- my truck is a 98
Yes.
This is a great video, very helpful. I need to replace this exact dash you just took out. Having a hard time finding one. Any suggestion on where to look to find one (especially in decent condition)?
Further north you go, the less sun baked and cracked they get
Lmctruck has new ones.
I wasn’t able to find one for the later 90’s models on their site. Maybe I’ll check again. Thanks
@@guacago488 yep, nothing for '95 and up.
I wonder if the dash harness could be removed without removing entire dash
Definitely not. It’s all hooked in and around everything
Im pretty sure its the same process for the non passenger airbag dashboards, just with a few less steps lol
Also for the park brake cable, I just pulled the whole handle off of the thing 😳
Yup pretty much
Where did you get the new dashboard assembly
Parts truck
@@inlinepaintandbody is it a dash cover or an actual dashboard replacement? Mine has become brittle and is breaking off easily.
I got the same truck, where can I find good parts for it??
Is no way to remove the plastic portion of the dash and keep the vehicle operable?
Could remove the wiring harness and stuff from the dash and plug it all back in
@@inlinepaintandbody OK, have a 96 Tahoe with a great body and good chassis. I want to paint the dash but not have to get it towed back and forth to the shop for major mechanical work broken up over the next month. Thanks!
Will a c1500 work in a k1500? Or would i have to swap the wiring?
Probably have to swap wiring
I just eliminated the whole plastic dash it's junk and any attempt at replacement is a huge waste of time as the next one will break as well
Make a cardboard pattern and water jet a beautiful aluminum T56 dash.
That would be sick
09:50 me personally lol I would’ve lost my shit
If you hadn't filmed this how long would the removal process have taken?
Couple hours. Maybe less now that I've done it
How to clean the air conditioner refrigerator Yukon 2006
Aside from the fact that this video is incredibly helpful and nice and to the point (thank you) i am so curious to know, are you in a parking lot? or is this your home and the driveway is weird? Just casual passing curiosity. Thanks again for the video man!
In my condos parking lot lol
Just did the swap from a 1996 into a 1998, but for some reason the truck starts but dies off quick, any reason why? Pls i really need help
Most likely the theft deterrent module. Find someone one with a tuner and just delete the system completely
I want to change my rotted 1998 cab with a better 1989 cab, will I be able to take out and switch the two dashes or is there too much to adapt and modify? Or will the mounting points all match up?
What kind of truck? The pickup trucks changed to NBS a year before the SUVs. 95-99 SUV dash cores should all mount the same way, with slight differences in the wiring harness.
The bolt from the engine firewall is a 30 tor screw the same on the 96 chevrolet silverado
Yeah should be
I took my dash so that my mehcanic can replace it …. The stop lamps don’t work and the 4x4 button switch ain’t working ….. where can I look to fix these
Electrical issues are not my strong suit. I’d start with the easy stuff first. Checking connections and fuses.
It’s the connection from a 1998 same as 1999 C1500. You said the connection from a 1997 is circle harness and 1998 it’s a like scare. Just wondering if the connections from a 1998 same as 1999
It’s probably the same as a 98. If not very similar
The white plug on the far right that’s different between 97/98, can those be cut off and swapped? I bought a 97 harness to go in a 98.
Probably. Chase the wires back and make sure they're the same
@@inlinepaintandbody Would you happen to have a good harness with the bigger plug on it for sale?
Great video, could I transplant my 96 two door dash into my 94 three door?
Probably different mounting points
there are other vids on YT covering the 94 and back to 95 and up swap.
What is the T30?
Why dose your cluster say it tops out at 180 is that kilometers?
This cluster is at 336km I believe
Alright bro I have a dash from a 97 I’m putting it in my 1990 Chevy but I junk the truck but I decided I might as well swap the whole engine with the harness so I can just plug everything in the same so I bought a 1998 but like you said at 20:34 the plug is different and to the headlights to what can I do?
Swap headlight harness or get wiring diagrams and re-pin the plugs to make it work. I believe it's all the same wires, colors and all, just different plugs
Would a 1998 dash fit a 1995 chevy pickup
Yeah it should. Only difference I believe is airbag vs cupholders
Thank you for info
Question man ! Do i have to remove everything from the dash just so i can replace the top part of the dash cover or can can i just take of the 3 screws and put the new one that im going to order ???
Yes you have to remove everything just to replace the top dash pad. That pad is one big piece that wraps around the metal frame that's bolted to the firewall
@@inlinepaintandbody @ how much its labor? On this job
Where do you find a replacement for it ?
I know this video is old so I have to take out the ac system to replace the evap ac cause mine is leaking should I follow exactly these steps or should I go a different route
If you need the dash fully removed then this is how it's done. It's really not super difficult to remove. Just label and organize your hardware. All the electrical plugs are different so you can't confuse them
I didn't even think to check mine before beginning the dash replacement process. Ugh.
How did you get the air hose out
Excuse me, I meant the antenna
What did you do with the connection that was round that wasn’t the same as the other truck ?
Swapped the dash harnesses so it all matched. Simple to do
What do you charge for a job like this?
No clue
Bro @7:28 where do that clip go??
Gone like a fart in the wind
Many of the trim pieces, controls, and connector you took out move with the dash and didn’t have to be removed. Extra work for no reason, but I bet you figured that out afterward. Good video over all.
Where does that wire go that has the white end on it
What wire
The one that is by it self with white end on the in the engine bay
@@leonardjackson6717 What time in the video do you see this wire?
When u took the main engine wiring harness off the block going though the firewall
I’m time frame of 1420
How long does it take to do ?
Couple hours
That’s possible to install a cluster for 1995 and put on 1993? That’s the same no?
Totally different dashes and clusters
@@inlinepaintandbody but that the same plug on two cluster, the one diference is the gear selector🤨
600 HP red venom all the way
Hi question do you have a shop I am in LA
Why did you remove the dash?
Had a crack by the windshield
@@inlinepaintandbody So to fix a crack on the dash, fill and paint, you have to take the entire dash out? The cover is not removable as it is on a 2003 as a part?
@@WellsLarry Still have to remove the dash to fix the crack properly anyways