Sonos PLAY:1 USB powered, how-to!!
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Want to connect your Sonos PLAY:1 to a pair of USB batteries? In this video I show where you will need to connect the 24 volts to including the used switching mode power supply (step up converter or so called boost converter that can be bought on ebay for few dollars). Hope you enjoy!
In this text below I note the used Embedded processor, the analog amplifier and the digital to analog converter (DAC) that is used in this Sonos PLAY:1.
**The amplifier that is integrated in this Sonos Play:1 is a Texas Instruments IC type: TPA3116 AVOL.
From the spec-sheet of the amplifier: The TPA3116 series are stereo efficient, digital amplifier power stage for driving speakers up to 100 W / 2 Ω in mono. The high efficiency of the TPA3130D2 allows it to do 2 × 15 W without external heat sink on a single layer PCB.
***[b]The digital to audio converter is again a IC from Texas Instruments. It is the IC type PCM5101a. According to the spec-sheet this is a: [b]
Monolithic CMOS integrated circuit that include a stereo digital-to-analog converter and additional support circuitry in a small TSSOP package. The PCM510xA uses the latest generation of TI’s advanced segment-DAC architecture to achieve excellent dynamic performance and improved tolerance to clock jitter.
Using Directpath™ charge-pump technology, the PCM510xA provides 2.1 VRMS ground centered outputs, allowing designers to eliminate DC blocking capacitors on the output, as well as external muting circuits traditionally associated with single supply line drivers.
The integrated line driver surpasses all other charge-pump based line drivers by supporting loads down to 1 kΩ.
The integrated PLL on the device removes the requirement for a system clock (commonly known as master clock), allowing a 3-wire I2S connection and reducing system EMI.
Intelligent clock error and PowerSense under voltage protection utilizes a two level mute system for pop-free performance.
Compared with many conventional switched capacitor DAC architectures, the PCM510xA family offers up to 20 dB lower out-of-band noise, reducing EMI and aliasing in downstream amplifiers/ADCs. (from traditional 100 kHz OBN measurements all the way to 3 MHz)
***The embedded controller inside the Sonos PLAY:1 is a FreeScale MPC8314VRADDA . Below quick summary of this used processor:
The MPC8314E contains a core built on Power Architecture™
technology. It is a cost-effective, low-power, highly
integrated host processor that addresses the requirements of
several storage, consumer, and industrial applications,
including main CPUs and I/O processors in network attached
storage (NAS), voice over IP (VoIP) router/gateway,
intelligent wireless LAN (WLAN), set top boxes, industrial
controllers, and wireless access points. The MPC8314E
extends the PowerQUICC II Pro family, adding higher CPU
performance, new functionality, and faster interfaces while
addressing the requirements related to time-to-market, price,
power consumption, and package size.
A suggestion, add a sufficiently large diode to the output of the 24v converter you added. this would allow you to still use the AC plug and keep the internal power supply from damaging the small up-converter board you added. You will have a slight voltage drop in the output of the up-converter but you can compensate for that loss with your output adjustment.
this is an awesome video I wish the people that live in their Vans and tiny houses would get to know about this technology this is very helpful thank you thank you thank you so if I get a 20 amp USB I could probably pump up the power even more cuz you said it was using one amp 😁👍
I think you need to disconnect the internal power supply for connecting an external power supply. It only draws 1 amp of power 110 volts so I would think a 24 volt power supply at 1 amps should be sufficient. However if the music is distorted at high volumes then I would think you would need at least 2 amps. I'm surprised he didn't measure the current draw on the 24 volt power supply. I'm not sure she covered it because I'm having a hard time understanding him
Nice work! I have been looking for those soldering points since I saw your video a year ago!
Good to hear! Hope you will be able to do the mod by yourself :-)
Thanks, although you haven't really said exactly where to connect the wires on the Sonos itself, although I think I can spot that myself once I get the speaker open.
and if you like to use your Sonos plugged-in you could do the same thing but reverse it and then you would have a USB output at your Sonos speaker that would be pretty cool too.
so it couldn't cause damage? thanks for the response btw...I am planning on doing this to mine, this Friday. Can I ask what you think of the following step up convertor, this is what I have purchased on eBay for £3...MT3608 DC-DC Voltage Step Up:
Technical Parameters :-
• 2V to 24V Input Voltage
• Up to 28V Output Voltage
• Maximum output current: 2A
• Integrated 80mΩ Power MOSFET
• 1.2MHz Fixed Switching Frequency
• Internal 4A Switch Current Limit
• Adjustable Output Voltage
• Internal Compensation
• Automatic Pulse Frequency Modulation Mode at Light Loads
• up to 97% Efficiency
Great video one question you do not have to disconnect the internal power supply. I would think if you hooked an external supply to the output of the internal power supply it would damage the internal power supply
Hello all, is there a reason you couldn't use a 24v battery to the board?, would it need any current limiting?.
Wonder if feeding mine with 24 volts will work ...the switched mode supply on mine has gone, , it blows the on board 2a fuse. Replacing it has only resulted in a 'pop' of another component further up the Switched mode supply just be the big Cap. I am going to try feeding the thing with 24 volt like this to see if it is the PSU on the board that is the problem, or if it was the amp or other parts of the Sonos that caused the PSU to blow...time will tell.
Did you have to discount the 240v connectors or can it auto switch between these depending on what is plugged in.
I'm very tempted to do this now but before i do would like to know as id like to use it plug in most of the time but be able to move around house if needed. Thanks
Well done! Work great! Good Idea!
I have a Sonos play 5 and they are going to recycle it, I chose to do the upgrade and get the new generation of the play five.
I need to figure out how to use it just as a dumb line in only dumb speaker.
Does anything speak against not opening the play one and installing the step up converter inbetween the usb and the sonos power plug? How many mAh does your battery have?
best regards
The Sonos power plug needs AC; the step up converter works with DC. It will not work as you propose.
So how much power is needed to drive the woofer? can't be 100W / 2 Ohms. But 15W seems a little to low, don't you think?..
I have a defective mid sub woofer speaker, I want to make two connection for two or just one 8 ohmios speaker of 40w? i know it is posible to connect external speaker and disable the internal one, I just don't the total pre amp power that is inside the Sonos.. or if you know what are the replacement mid subwoofer speaker on the sonos, thank you in advance
any videos on how to perform this on a sonos one gen 2?
Any idea what the max input voltage might be at the point you indicate? I have just been using a boost converter , 10-32 in 12-35 out, 5 amp or so.
The minimum is 15 volts ..about ..a definite cut as you reduce the input voltage to approaching 15. It does not fade out..a defined cut off, though the white light is still working.
Do you know the max safe working input voltage we can feed in to it?
I have a blown psu too so want to feed it with external psu. Is 24v the correct level at that cap? I have a 19v switched mode psu which seems to work ok but wondering if I should hunt down a 24v one instead?
@@nathandixon3960 , I don't know for sure. if it runs OK at 19..why not...I run mine at 24 and it works fine. I did not try any higher.
My boost convertor was adjustable, and i did turn it down to see when it cut out, but cannot remember the lowest it went down to .
If I get a chance, I'll try again to see how low it can go.
if you do not hear form me, give me a reminder in a few days
I got one of these for £28 from eBay, gonna run it 12v and hopefully 2 amps or less, for full volume capability. do you think that step up will work or need upgrading?
and why does it get hot at high volumes in the first place? it wouldn't do that at high volumes, off the ac supply, would it??
Because this (cheap) the DC-DC converter is not the right one since it does not supply enough power. Should get one that is higher powered and maybe includes an heat sink.
have just done this with my sonos at home. is it just at mine or is onybody else having issues with driving it above 1/3 volume? music starts to break up and then the sonos reboots....
Patrick van Deursen : It's possible the USB battery you're using doesn't put out enough current. I'd imagine if you used a USB battery capable of putting out 2A, you can probably drive it quite a bit louder.
unfortunately it was not the battery, but the step up converter. in the mean time i did something else wrong and now the buttons on the top won't react anymore. the battery works bye the way with a new step up converter capable of more amps
Have you tried this with a Play:3?
why does he check the temp of the ic? and is worried about it getting hotter with additional volume. is running the play one via a dc-dc step up convertor likely to damage the sonos??? if so I am very hesitant of doing this to mine now...
Hi there, I'm checking the temp of the IC because if it is getting too hot, the DC-DC convertor will shut down (voltage on output falls away) and therefore the sonos stops playing music.