Can I just say.... thank you so very much for explaining the "how to" in specific and clear dialogue ! It really made a difference with the issue I was having.
Nice video. By the way pivot balls are lubricated with graphite. As far as wear in the outdrives use mugen seiki super grease. But ultimately it’s gonna wear. There is alot of torque in the erevo. Putting lighter diff fluids will help greatly. I learned this from rc racing. It’s easier to lay the vehicle on its weight on a flat surface to work on pivot balls. Also when adjusting pivot balls tighten till it won’t move then back it off slowly till it drops. I also regularly break down my vehicles and clean almost every part with an ultrasonic cleaner. Don’t drive my erevo much but she is my first and I love her!!
I’ve always used powdered graphite for my guns and I use it on my trucks too, it doesn’t attract or hold any gunk, and it’s an absolute dry powder, yet it’s slippery. It does last for a while in the guns, but I clean them far more often than my trucks, so I can’t really give a 100% recommendation for it, but I’d say it’s worth a shot.
Pretty good video! I came looking for more info on the nitro Revo 3.3, and now although I see many differences, you’ve also taught me more about the pivot balls and the many things they’re affecting! Thanks for that! I’ve already subbed.
Hey thanks again Travis for responding to the message. I’m really new to the hobby and I honestly cannot thank you enough for the videos I just didn’t see the part of the video of actually disassembled the part.
I don't know any RC build that requires a hammer lol. I watched your video for a reason cuz I thought about using a hammer for that pivot ball steering I thought it pop back in. So thanks for the video and your time!!
Another side comment. Mate, you may want to get gold of traxxas and ask to become a recognised traxxas service/repair channel. As long as you get compensated. This is brilliant stuff. Truly
I love your videos. Helped me out a lot. I can tell your a mechanic. I used to be a mechanic in my younger years, I’m an electrician now. Just a quick question for you. How many turns to back out from full stop in on the pivot ball top and bottom front and rear for stock camber adjustment.
Front: Top 0 turns out Bottom 1.5 turns out Back: Top 0 turns out Bottom 1 turn out Always keep the Top at 0. This how you create Negative camber which is what you want.and 🤙It depends on what your doing with your car. But these specs are what I am running and like it. I am not sure what the stock numbers were. You don't need much. 👍
Trc tacky lube. It's a very sticky exposed gear lubricant for yarders or cranes but a dab of that stuff on the drive cups will keep the pins from wearing into the drive cup
Depending on where you live I'd say a rigging shop but unless youre on the west coast it's probably not called that I'll put the link to their website but my knowledge is limited to it being out on the yarder gears and then my revo www.texasrefinery.com/products/greases/takilube-ii-open-gear/
So I just destroyed my front end on my e revo 2.0, hit a chunk of concrete buried in the face of an old trail jump at full steam, 18/46 gears so I was hauling along pretty quick. I broke all the factory skid plates, front bulkhead and all steering assembly into quarter sized pieces my question is who makes quality aluminum parts at reasonable prices. I've heard integy and exotek are junk. Gpm is meh. And vitavon is good but spendy. Any advice?
@@tonycavazos4819 Honestly, all metal parts for Suspension and Steering should be left plastic. It absorbs the energy on impact where as metal transfers it to the next weakest link. Sorry, but I would keep the plastic, I have heard lots of horror stories with metal/ aluminum parts breaking other pieces down the line!
Great video, it will help me immensely in my revo 3.3 maintenace. How did 3-in-one dry lube go for the drive shafts? Would you recommend it or something else? Thanks!
Have you had problems stripping out the suspension arms from the pivot ball caps pulling out of the suspension arms repeatedly? If so, any good solutions? I'd just replace the suspension arms (so I get new threads) but i'm sure it'll happen again. It's happened to me 3 times now...
@@upgradedrc3697 Let me know if you like the upgraded pivot balls. I upgraded to RPM suspension arms and so far they are working well. Time will tell if they pull out the same way the Traxxas suspension arms did. I was looking at the upgraded pivot balls, they are wicked expensive for how small they are, but the metal threads on them look much better in the picture than the stock pivot ball threads. I wonder if that would keep them in there better.
Sounds like your axel shaft has a metal bur that needs to be taken down with sandcloth or a file. Or the bearing is marred on the inside of the race. Both will prevent the shaft from going all the way thru.
Not the inside of the bearing, maybe the shaft needs sanding. I don't know, I can't see your problem only guessing what could be wrong based on what you told me.
Your going to have to remove the pivot ball cap and unscrew the pivot ball from the control arm, then put it back in and scure it with pivot ball cap, then screw it back into the control arm. But usually when a pivot ball get pulled out it ruins the plastic in the steering knuckle. You might need to replace it or it will keep coming out. Hope this helps
Outstanding explanation. I’ve always been so nervous to take all this apart but feel more confident now. Thank you
I find taking part slowly is the best. Part at a time then out it back together.
I am the least mechanically inclined person ever and I can do anything on the sledge and kraton
Can I just say.... thank you so very much for explaining the "how to" in specific and clear dialogue ! It really made a difference with the issue I was having.
Thanks brother, I REALLY appreciate the great comment!🤟
The explanation from this guy is brilliant. His tips make things soooooo simple….great!
Thanks, I appreciate that bro!
Nice video. By the way pivot balls are lubricated with graphite. As far as wear in the outdrives use mugen seiki super grease. But ultimately it’s gonna wear. There is alot of torque in the erevo. Putting lighter diff fluids will help greatly. I learned this from rc racing. It’s easier to lay the vehicle on its weight on a flat surface to work on pivot balls. Also when adjusting pivot balls tighten till it won’t move then back it off slowly till it drops. I also regularly break down my vehicles and clean almost every part with an ultrasonic cleaner. Don’t drive my erevo much but she is my first and I love her!!
I’ve always used powdered graphite for my guns and I use it on my trucks too, it doesn’t attract or hold any gunk, and it’s an absolute dry powder, yet it’s slippery. It does last for a while in the guns, but I clean them far more often than my trucks, so I can’t really give a 100% recommendation for it, but I’d say it’s worth a shot.
Travis, just want to thank you for making these super helpful videos. It's been a tremendous help for me, being a noob to RC and the 2.0. Cheers!
Appreciate you doing your own things and not caring what others tell you to do , great video!
Thank you very much, I have a very privet group open to my subscribers if your interested. here is the link.
facebook.com/groups/2812810532319871
Pretty good video! I came looking for more info on the nitro Revo 3.3, and now although I see many differences, you’ve also taught me more about the pivot balls and the many things they’re affecting! Thanks for that! I’ve already subbed.
Hey thanks again Travis for responding to the message. I’m really new to the hobby and I honestly cannot thank you enough for the videos I just didn’t see the part of the video of actually disassembled the part.
I don't know any RC build that requires a hammer lol. I watched your video for a reason cuz I thought about using a hammer for that pivot ball steering I thought it pop back in. So thanks for the video and your time!!
Thanks a lot for explaining about the grub screw. I lost that whole nut, and Stuff. Also stripped my inner wheel
Thank you very much for that info👍
Great Video sir..thank you 4 this!!!! Learned alot..😉
Nice explain sir...
Another side comment. Mate, you may want to get gold of traxxas and ask to become a recognised traxxas service/repair channel. As long as you get compensated. This is brilliant stuff. Truly
Thanks brother, i appreciate that!🤟
rounder? could it be they're softer and have some more give? so do they pop out less?
Hey man thanks for the video, it has helped tremendously
Very informative, thanks ! I hit the thumbs up and the subscribe button.
I love your videos. Helped me out a lot. I can tell your a mechanic. I used to be a mechanic in my younger years, I’m an electrician now. Just a quick question for you. How many turns to back out from full stop in on the pivot ball top and bottom front and rear for stock camber adjustment.
Front: Top 0 turns out
Bottom 1.5 turns out
Back: Top 0 turns out
Bottom 1 turn out
Always keep the Top at 0. This how you create Negative camber which is what you want.and 🤙It depends on what your doing with your car. But these specs are what I am running and like it. I am not sure what the stock numbers were. You don't need much. 👍
I was told to use a graphite lubricant for those parts. Works well.
Try Graphite. I use it on my wheelchair axles
Very good explained! I would be interested in seeing the bearings (7:13) cleaned and which cleaner and oil you use.
Right wd 40 to clean and wd specialist for lube.
Thanks for your videos!
Thank you brother
Great stuff 👍🏻 Thanks for sharing 💯 dang grub screws. Lmao
i bet the Graphite spray dry lube would work good, i use it on chain at work for truck tarps goes to coal mines. it works well at not collecting dust
The 4933x aluminum pillow balls are rounder than the standard steel ones.
Thanks for making videos your helping us!
What band is playing in your intro???
Trc tacky lube. It's a very sticky exposed gear lubricant for yarders or cranes but a dab of that stuff on the drive cups will keep the pins from wearing into the drive cup
Awesome, thank you I will try it out. Where can I find it in town maybe?
Depending on where you live I'd say a rigging shop but unless youre on the west coast it's probably not called that I'll put the link to their website but my knowledge is limited to it being out on the yarder gears and then my revo www.texasrefinery.com/products/greases/takilube-ii-open-gear/
So I just destroyed my front end on my e revo 2.0, hit a chunk of concrete buried in the face of an old trail jump at full steam, 18/46 gears so I was hauling along pretty quick. I broke all the factory skid plates, front bulkhead and all steering assembly into quarter sized pieces my question is who makes quality aluminum parts at reasonable prices. I've heard integy and exotek are junk. Gpm is meh. And vitavon is good but spendy. Any advice?
Thank you Sir!
@@tonycavazos4819 Honestly, all metal parts for Suspension and Steering should be left plastic. It absorbs the energy on impact where as metal transfers it to the next weakest link. Sorry, but I would keep the plastic, I have heard lots of horror stories with metal/ aluminum parts breaking other pieces down the line!
Great video, it will help me immensely in my revo 3.3 maintenace. How did 3-in-one dry lube go for the drive shafts? Would you recommend it or something else? Thanks!
It did help out , but it like water and makes a mess. I'm always on the search for the perfect dry lube.🤟
14:27 dont push it, just spin a screw.
i just got a old slayer, and it doesn’t even have boots or clips left lol the pivot balls are about ready to fall out
and it sprays on like paint, so you
could easily reapply it without disassembly
Have you had problems stripping out the suspension arms from the pivot ball caps pulling out of the suspension arms repeatedly? If so, any good solutions? I'd just replace the suspension arms (so I get new threads) but i'm sure it'll happen again. It's happened to me 3 times now...
I have not had that problem yet. But, i will be upgrading the arms and pivot balls soon
@@upgradedrc3697 Let me know if you like the upgraded pivot balls. I upgraded to RPM suspension arms and so far they are working well. Time will tell if they pull out the same way the Traxxas suspension arms did. I was looking at the upgraded pivot balls, they are wicked expensive for how small they are, but the metal threads on them look much better in the picture than the stock pivot ball threads. I wonder if that would keep them in there better.
Yea my problem is I have the bearings in and it won’t go all the way through so I can’t put my pin in and wheel hex
Sounds like your axel shaft has a metal bur that needs to be taken down with sandcloth or a file. Or the bearing is marred on the inside of the race. Both will prevent the shaft from going all the way thru.
So I have to file the inside so the bearing can go in all the way
Not the inside of the bearing, maybe the shaft needs sanding. I don't know, I can't see your problem only guessing what could be wrong based on what you told me.
What is the mount he's using to hold the car
I custom made that.
@@upgradedrc3697 would u like to share how u made it 😁
Just 2 flat pieces of steel with tubing welded at the top and bottom of it. Then a smaller piece of tube in the center not welded so it can spin.
@@upgradedrc3697 one more ? What did u use for ur plate that the revo sits on ..
Try graphite
boeshield T9 aircraft lube
My ball popped out of the knuckle how to I get it back in?
Your going to have to remove the pivot ball cap and unscrew the pivot ball from the control arm, then put it back in and scure it with pivot ball cap, then screw it back into the control arm. But usually when a pivot ball get pulled out it ruins the plastic in the steering knuckle. You might need to replace it or it will keep coming out. Hope this helps
@@upgradedrc3697 Thanks had no idea that the ball unscrewed! Got it back in.