OnePage has been doing sterling work for some years; producing a fun and free set of rules for use with Sci-Fi minis. The stls are the icing on the cake.
OPR are awesome, and the core rules and army lists are all downloadable for free, so you can get going with whatever minis you already have straight away. Going in for the Patreon (at the basic level) just adds to the experience, with _full_ rulebooks containing more advanced rules and even different types of game to make it even more immersive - or the rulebooks are all available at Wargames Vault each for about the price of a month's Tier 1 sub. As a Patron, you also get access to the unit creator rules, so you can design rules for anything that's not already there and cost it up using the same formula Gaetano does. And at the Tier 2 (about £10) you get all the STLs OPR release that month (usually a bunch of minis over about four armies),as well as a discount code so you can get previous ones way cheaper. _And_ they often do deals with other creators, getting you bonus tester models on top of what they're already producing.
Not only does 3d printing encourage a more expansive hobby but with further tools and training each of us can create our own models! That's the truly exciting part for me.
@@Wilzeckit's more expensive if you want a killteam or a 500 point army. I don't really have much interest in having 1 big army, if you're like me and just want some of everything. All the cool models, it's much much cheaper. More expensive to start, like €250 Vs €150 but you can get probably 2x or 3x the models. Then on top of that you can get 2000 points for less than a bottle of resin (€25) instead of €600+ More expensive to start, then cheaper and cheaper the more you print.
dunk the models in hot water before removing supports. They soften up and there are (almost) no pimples. Much easier. Also works for straightening models
the $45+ for one model stuff really does throw it all into sharp relief, especially since that's the on-the-sprue price. X-wing Miniatures are pretty much the poster child for high-cost single model packs, and you have to get as far as a pre-painted Millenium Falcon model before you hit that price range.
Yeah, it really hard to justify spending that kind of $ on 1 miniature. An entire bottle of resin cost $45 hell my printer was on sale 2 weeks ago for $139usd
I feel bad for people who play warhammer in other countries than uk, I mean it’s not cheap here but even after exchange it’s way the hell cheaper than america
@@oliverwithers9736 If you think Americans have it bad, you probably didn't count Eastern Europe where the absolutely CHEAPEST store (They have some really nice discounts) with GW products I could find in my country price their Start Collecting boxes at 10% of minimal monthly wage. Latest Octarius release is equivalent to 25% of monthly wage or even more for some people lol
Thank you for sharing you and your kid painting. Watching the next generation of nerds learn is great. If GW doesn't want to hate their community, they should stop treating the community like it's out to get them.
To be fair, GW has stated that they make the rules to sell minis, which is where they make their profit. For all ways that matter to a corporation, *MONEY!*, 3D printing and those that use them are out to get them. They don't care if you buy the rule books, they care about your mini buying from them. Anything that lowers that is a threat. Obviously, GW doesn't have to build it's business around the profit they get from minis, but that's what they have done and I don't think they could shift from that easily.
@@technomancermagus8357 Perhaps they can't shift from it, but they COULD take the opposite approach towards 3D printing and do what some other miniature sellers do: Make their own STL files. It still lets them be profitable (How many hobbyists really have a 3D printer by now? They'll still be selling their minis themselves), it gives them another branch of sales, and most importantly: The community will hate them slightly less.
@@technomancermagus8357 I agree, I think they should offer 3d printers, resin, etc. All with GW branding and offer stls as a part of their business model and not a replacement.
I could have printed that entire army in one go as I own 2 large resin, and one small one, all that print faster than the Photon (which was my first resin printer and still has a number of features that I like). I am impressed with how far you got in a day. And, with your shop. Really nice. I have a LOT to say about GW and 3d printing, but I'll keep it to this. You cannot make the storm respect you.
It looks amazing! A warning as well: it seems to be recommend that you use a rubber scraper to interact with the vat as to avoid damaging the FEP film. I didn’t know this and ended up heavily damaging my FEP and the LED with resin due to damaging the film. I scraped cured resin out and ripped the film. Someone recommended lightly running the back of your fist against the bottom of the vat to lightly pop off any cured resin that builds up there. Hope this helps you preserve your resin printing for days to come! You’re already doing way better than I was!
Just watched this love how much One Page Rules has grown in the last year, their models have improved even more and their website has had a makeover since this video came out. I myself saw this and made and painted a 2,000pts army of Robot Legions, totally worth it. Good video and great results in the end.
Just a heads up, those look like vinyl gloves. Vinyl is NOT recommended for use with resin (and a number of other things like organic fats) since the chemicals can penetrate them. I'd recommend using nitrile gloves if you like disposable, or suitable rubber gloves (please check which rubber it's using to make sure it's resin safe). They probably perform better than no gloves but you really should use nitrile gloves (and I've never seen nitrile come in transparent, correct me if I'm wrong). You can also use latex or neoprene, but don't use them until they fail; you should probably dispose of them well before that point. Edit: Rewrote comment for clarity.
Yeah, the funniest part if that GW can't really sue them because they are distinct enough that they just have to bring all the IP that GW copied to court and be like "if we are in breach.... they are in breach."
I appreciate the fact that you did this entire video, on probably THE most affordable printer in the market right now; Proving that anyone who wants to do this, can do this, relatively cheap, :)
I so want a resin printer purely for bits, I prefer GW models to any I’ve seen on MMF, Thingiverse, etc but custom helmets, bases, extra bits to make my units more unique/personalised is waaaaaay worth the price alone imo
Great paint job. Love the color shifting paint. I think my gripe with the OPR robots is that they have a lot of fabric bits sculpted on. Which does look pretty good, but also makes it a bit more involved to paint. With the GW Necrons, they're all metal, meaning painting them is as simple as spraying with a metallic spray paint. From there, it's just a couple details, maybe a once over with a Contrast paint or off-brand equivalent. The cloth adds more painting steps, which is the bane of the lazy mini painter. (Though this does shed some light as to why GW would add them to the big starter sets. Along with the Space Marines, they're easier to paint for newbies.)
Awesome. I'm willing to buy a 3d printer to try out some of these awesome models that OPR and other companies are releasing, and seeing this into practice is really encouraging. For me it's not so much about the price than the diversity, the convenience of being able to print a full army in one day when an order take days or weeks to come, on top of the fact that some STL models out there are just so gorgeous... Well, really hope you're gonna release more videos like that!
Shipping time is a big deal for me to because I live in a remote area and it takes a long time. Pick up a printer and go for it, it is a great hobby in itself.
Not only does it encourage a more expansive hobby but with further tools and training each of us can create our own models! That's the truly exciting part for me.
@@wiggy5209 and for the stores it’s still fairly neutral as you still need paints, accessories, resin, and will likely spend more on food and other products rather than dumping everything into price locked products with average margins.
For an easier time removing prints from the plate, get a thin metal palette knife. The type with a rounded tip and a slight bend. The thin metal slips under then print easily allowing you to get prints off much easier than the plastic scraper.
I've used a palette knife, but I've found that the best thing is a weeding "spatula" from a silhouette (or cricut) vinyl cutter. It's a personal preference but I think it works awesome, so much so, that I bought one just for the purpose, so I don't get resin on the one for my silhouette.
For a cheap upgrade, look at swapping out the ball joint on your printer with one which uses threaded screws. I've not had to check level since replacing mine on the anycubic photon.
Hardly see the little videos in my recommended. I've been really interested in both 40K and 3D printing lately so I'd just like to take this moment to praise the Omnisiah
I appreciate that! The YT algorithm is very hard to break into... this is the first video that I have managed to do it, I have gone up nearly 1000subs this week, it is blowing my mind right now.
OPR stuff is excellent, and you have done a good job! makes me want to try the same challenge myself with my friends. I think you could have changed up some of your processes to speed things up in a number of ways, such as adding more to the build plate and using a different resin (or just cleaning in IPA/Acetone), and of course the paint scheme like you mentioned. really good effort, good to see the channel is growing
I tried this challenge myself but couldnt get the colour shift results like Troys. Mine just went lovely metalic green. So resprayed blqck gloss and started again.. Same result. So sad.
Great project. I didn't know that OPR had such nice models, and I think that one day I will have to test those colour shift paints. 😃 Have you tried using a metal scraper to remove the models from the build plate? From my experience that works better than the plastic scraper. You can simply place the build plate upright on one of the short edges and run it down fast along the plate. I use the platic scraper only to stirr the resin in the vat or to scrape it from the FEP when I clean the vat. It is also much easier to wiggle it under the supports. When you don't hold the build plate by the screw it is most unlikely that you accidentally unlevel it. I'm a bit surpised that you have to wash your models for 30 minutes. I use regular resin and I only have to wash them for 4-6 minutes in methylated spirits.
can i just say i love this video. why? you show every step. even cleaning the plate, curing, pouring the resin where as being told the steps or reading them is scary as your mind is making shit up seeing every step 1 by 1. makes it feel alot simpler and makes me more confident
Onepagerules also let's you use your GW miniatures, as all of it's armies and units have a counterpart for AOS and 40K, so you can play Warhammer with free rules. Battle Brothers = Space Marines, Battle Sisters = Sisters of Battle, Eternal Wardens = Stormcast Eternals, and so on (There's even Squats and Space Skaven). No need for codexes (besides lore) and mountains of errata.
Late to the party, but I got the Fulament flex plate, hit it with 80 grit sand paper and it is absolutely the 2nd best investment I've made to 3d printing. You can bend the plate back and the edge of the raft pops off and you can slide your scraper right underneath and it pops right off. The best thing I got was an Nfep. I've had 0 issues since I've gotten it and the suction is almost nonexistent now
Completely understandable, you still accomplished so much! I could be painting for 3 hours and only have the pauldrons of my space marines trimmed lmaoo
Great project, love to see some Canadians out here! I think you could have packed way more on your build plate, and put more resin in your vat, and if youre worried about stuff sticking to your fep just make a thicker base layer. It wastes more resin but drastically reduces the chance of mistakes. The chunks on the fep will just become part of the base layer.
If you get levelling problems like that then a plate leveler without that ball joint in it would be a good idea. Levelling after every print it nuts! I had my original photon for a year before I broke it, but probably only ever levelled 3 or 4 times. I've got a mono now and only ever done it the once. Also, you can fit 11 of the basic robots on your build plate so go ahead and load it up! Great project though, I'm enjoying collecting my OPR Robot army too!
I don't think those were nitrile gloves, just make sure that you aren't using straight latex as they dont have the same protection for your skin as nitrile
I don't know what they are, but they don't feel like latex of nitrile, now I am curious so I am going to look after work. Whatever they are the resin don't seem to seep through.
That's a great looking army. The colour-shift paint is so effective for creating an alien appearance. The studio space is fantastic. Is that a Newfoundland Accent?
Pro tip I learned on my Photon Mono. Your FEP WILL break eventually. I put a cut up plastic iPad screen protector over my screen for when this happens. It's much easier to just peel this off than it is to scrape your screen. In my experience I always ruin my screen by doing scraping it so it helps with that too.
Those are gorgeous looking models. And the ability to print your own, at a fraction of the exorbitant prices Gee Dub gouges for, I can get into this. I'm loving what I'm seeing with the One Page Rules, as well. Keep up the great work
For doing anything like this again, I'd suggest getting a magnetic flexible build plate solution like Sovol or Wham Bam - with 2 plates then you can kick off the next print immediately before you clean off the other steel plate... because you remove the steel plate before removing parts you don't have the same chance of getting our bed out of level either
I LOVE! OPR for starters their rule sets are amazing so well done, all army lists and basic rules out for free and get updated all the time including new units being added over time. Also their models they are designing are getting better and better with each and every month. I joined them recently and bought up all of their Robot Legions stuff that I missed out on 😁 great stuff bud.
@@FacilityD20 For sure I couldnt agree any more. Printing is just getting easier and cheaper all the time. Hell even if you old wanted part models or bits to use for current models it is well worth it as well.
@@yagsipcc287 I like that they had all thir mins split up to, so if I just needed to print a leg or arm I could, that's great for recovering failed prints.
Yeah, really enjoying OPR as well. Currently putting together an Alien Hive army. The fact that I was able to print a "Trygon" for under $10 (5 for file, 5 for resin) is insane. So now im subbed to them and Gear Guts ....pray for me before I drown in resin XD
Just found you through this video! Awesome content! :D got a like and subscribe from me! Even though you never got it all painted in the challenge i would consider the fact that you got it all printed in the time frame given an absolute win! Very awesome content!
Table top miniatures and 3d printing feel like they were made for each other! Personally i think the worst thing GW did was move away from Die-cast. Should consider reintroducing die-cast for the specials, make their plastic miniatures a much more competitive price and actively sell 3d models along with promoting 3d printing as becoming the evolution of table top gaming!
Much appreciated! I am trying to get better and improve all those things you mentioned, putting a video together is as much work as the project itself. It nice to hear that you noticed that. I don't want to get over polished, but I still want to step my production and editing up a few more notches.
Love the effervescent look to the RL Nice work there! . I have to say you mess with your printer a whole lot more than I do with mine. I have a Elegoo Saturn, and I set the level once since I had it over 3 months ago. I can also print those same minis in less than 3 hours each with it, and twice the number of them with the big bed. I considered getting a small anycubic, but watching you sweat over the level, I may get a elegoo mars instead. I also printed those and never had to add anything to them to get great prints.
I have to trust haha... no my friend has the exact same one, and never has to re-level it... i plan to upgrade it, but the think was on sale the other week for $139.00 so I can't complain.
@@FacilityD20 That's why I was looking at one, they were so inexpensive, I don't like the design of that plate mount from what I can see in your video. My saturn is a solid ball joint and has a mono screen. My burn in layers is set to 8 seconds - 6 layers with 10 layer transition then , 2.4 second per layer. 170 lift speeds. Try setting your slicer to a Saturn and it will show you just how much faster it can be.
@@FacilityD20 Yes, the Mono screen allows me to go to 2.3-2.5 seconds per layer. I use 8 seconds for the first 5 burn on layers! That's a huge difference. Makes me a huge pile of shame! LOL
Man, buy a magnetic build plate. You’ll win 20 minutes between each print. Also on my printer i never do the level again, and never fail. you definitely has a problem with the printer :/ but it’s awesome job and awesome vid. Happy i saw it!
Looks great! Just wondering you didn’t wear any type of filtration mask when working with the resin. Was wondering if there is a reason or setup that did not have you need it. As far as I’m aware resin is highly toxic until cured
@@businessathlet3587 I want to exhaust the printer directly out of the building with a duct fan and some flex hose, but I haven't settled on where this printer is going to sit and don't want to drill a 4in hole through the wall yet. I was really worried about the fumes when I first got the printer, but the room is big and well ventilated and with the exhaust hood going, you can't even smell anything, still the plan for the future is direct venting.
Oh man, I remember my single Photon days! I have since upgraded and added a plethora of sizes of resin printers to my print service! I still have 3 Photons that I use sometimes but not nearly as much as I did when I first got them with the new mono-screen printers I have.
@@sentinel1877 It is the orginal Anycubic Photon, it was on sale the other week for 138usd. However it is an old model and there are far better ones available now.
Super-cool. I'd love to see more One Page Rules Army videos! I'm using soy resin right now and I have my parts washer filled with mean green to wash, I'll dunk the parts basket in another container of distilled water a bit and then I use a pickle jar with distilled water on the curing station for water-curing. It works really great with the water and I get much crisper cures. Give it a try sometime. The standard plastic pickle jar fits on the curing platform perfectly.
While I do think the prices of the models are ridiculous, I don’t think that just being able to print an entire army in one day is good for the hobby. If you print an entire army in one day then you’ve got nothing else to work towards. Personally, I like being able to buy new models month by month and painting them as I go.
@@FacilityD20 Not really. lets say $50 for a box. $5 for packaging, transport and logistics, including warehousing etc. $5 for design $5 for rules design $5 machine maintenance $10 for taxes $10 for material, including waste cost and plastic material certification and lost packaging/material. $10 Profit. $5 of which goes to the store(if it's not a GW, but i'm unsure)
@@azir64 I can find an FLGS that offers 25% discount, and they're still making money on it. Normal business models mean GW makes at least a 50% margin, but since almost all production is in-house and the shear volume GW of product sells mean design, packaging maintenance etc. are going add up to be just pennies per box. Better to assume GW's profit margins are 75%+ ...which could explain why their share price has increased 2000% since Jan'17.
Finaly bought my self a Anucybic photon ultra dlp printer. I have no experience at all when it comes to 3d printing so, glad that i found your channel :) Subbed. Waiting for some more part so i can get started with miniatures :)
One page rules is the shit. It’s exclusively what me and my buddies use for our game rules. Their 3D models are awesome as well as you can see with their robot armies models
I just stumbled across your channel today and I have to say I am always happy when I find a Canadian content creator. I live in Atlantic Canada so I sympathize with how expensive the hobby can be. So much so that I joined the 3D printing movement in June of 2020. If you live on the East Coast I would love some tips for local shops that carry more than just Citadel or Vallejo world war colour palette paints. We need some variety here it is like a hobby desert!
@@FacilityD20 I got some of the machines printed, Looking good. Some failures but that's normal. Now I'm using 2 part epoxy putty to fix what I can instead of tossing them.
That is awesome man, thanks for letting me know you busted your machine back out. I just ran off a Carnovor Rex from alien hives last night too, its bad ass.
Props to You for trying this challenge with just one small printer! The optimizer in me was mildly triggered by the unused space between models but you still managed to get em all printed 👍
@@FacilityD20 I managed to pull it off with an inferior machine, than the Photon. By lowering the lift time, getting the rafts to interconnect, using the best tested expo time (I have to overexpo by 0.4 sec, making my machine's expo time 1.5, because of my "stable" Z axis...) and having a tiny little light-off delay. Also PTFE spray. Don't forget the PTFE. I don't care what others say about "learning the settings, PTFE is a crutch". PTFE helps you do things with your machine otherwise it is incapable. HOWEVER! The extra forces present in such a tightly packed plate might damage your machine in the long run, speeding up material wear. I do not recommend packing them tight just for the sake of using all space available, but if it gets you a model in, then go for it. My method of printing a batch of models is to group them on the plate by height, to optimize printing times. In your case, the only time you could've saved was maybe about 15-30 minutes, by switching one of the HQ-s with a warrior. Meaning: having two plates, one with 4 warriors and the overlord and mancer, and having one plate with 6 warriors. If I were really fancy and trusted everything to print flawlessly, I would've spread the spider's pieces all over the other plates and put all high pieces together with the spider's long legs. Only 30-50 minutes of time saved, but hey, you take what you can get.
@@balazszsigmond826 my exposure time is 9s on this machine with this resin. You are 100% on the heights the techomancer on the bed with the warriors took a good chuck of extra time printing that staff... I have had so may experiences with lift speed pulling supports from the minis I also lowered that speed down to... I would love to upgrade to a mono x in the future. Thanks for leaving your experience it was interesting.
You should calculate all costs, not just the resin, energy consumption, cleaning process, and materials to use like masks and filters, cloves, alcohol, etc. then the costs are way higher still lower than for 1000 points of GWs miniatures but not that far away anymore. Since Covid, the costs for ABEK filters and alcohol are gone up about 4 times as much as before. Idk how much you pay for resin but here it cost 60€ for 1000g. A complete filled plate with 8 Space Marine-sized miniatures cost me around 12 to 15€, for printing, cleaning, and energy consumption.
I thought about that... but then there are so many variables like... how many washes I get with the IPA... how many gloves I use per print (Power is super cheap here) then I feel like I would have to add on cost for GW for shipping and modeling etc... so I kept it simple. One day I will do a video like this because it is a great idea. Off the top of my head with a few ballparks I would only add about another $2-3 to this whole army.
@@FacilityD20 I have made an excel sheet for that. I can translate it from German to English and make it available on my dropbox or google. I don't calculate every little piece too. I just wanted to see roughly the real cost of 3d printing. It is mostly like prototyping and prototyping isn't really cheap. I talked with a friend lately and as I explained to him, what he needs besides a printer and resin he said it's way to expensive for just a few miniatures. If you do some hobbies where you use a lot of things that you also need for resin printing then it doesn't feel that it is expensive to add a printer. I never thought about that before, but as my friend asked some questions I realized how many things you need just to print, clean, and harden a resin miniature. It was like, yeah you need alcohol to wash them and cloves, and ya need a UV lamp to harden the resin and you better wear a half mask with abek filters when you do this.
think it would be helpful if you lower your minis closer to the Build plate, it looked like the supports held them pretty far up off the build plate, every layer (in the support costs time and Resin).
Even washing in water for so long, I can tell you didn’t get all the resin off. I use IPA even on water washable resin. Use a final pass with an old toothbrush dipped in IPA to make sure all of the details are clean. Also wear gloves until resin is fully cured.
This was the first video I found for your channel, went back and watched a few others. Easiest decision to subscribe of my life. While the title came across as click-baity (with good reason, given the abyss of the algorithm), the content you present is consistently super high quality, engaging, and above all incredibly interesting to enjoy. I think I've watched this one like 4 times alone, and I discovered it maaaaybe the 24th?
@@FacilityD20 Mars elegoo pro 2. I pretty much do no maintenance to the printer. Granted the fail or two I did have I emptied the vat and got the stuff stuck to the Fap off. My buddy says he doesn’t even empty the Vat. Just carefully pulls it out. I just print, scrape my models off, throw the plate back on and print again. Nothing in between. I may regret it eventually. But damn near 100 prints without leveling the print bed.
Just painted a storm talon gunship new in box that I never got around to painting. The RRP was $75 AUD, that same product is now $95 AUD. That is pretty crazy, and that was bought in 2015, so 5 years. Im not short on cash or anything, but the prices are pretty high. Generally cant walk out of games workshop without spending at least $ 250 if your serious about adding a serious element to your army!
Hey there, really liked the video, this convinced me to get a 3d printer in the end, really like how you explain the process. One thing that’s helped me save a bit of time is the flint reed method for leveling, I’ve been able to go multiple prints without releveling since I started using that method.
Color shift paint guide here: ruclips.net/video/WAn8KAWBFno/видео.html
I will look at One Page Rules.
printer link?
Thanks!. I have been using the GSW colour shift paints on the SW legion Droidekars. Not a total success. 😆
Color shift looks great as basecoat for iron hands!
Love it! I had no idea alternative games and rulesets existed that cater for 3D Printing vs the GW model of freaking out and banning it.
Glad I could help!
OnePage has been doing sterling work for some years; producing a fun and free set of rules for use with Sci-Fi minis. The stls are the icing on the cake.
OPR are awesome, and the core rules and army lists are all downloadable for free, so you can get going with whatever minis you already have straight away.
Going in for the Patreon (at the basic level) just adds to the experience, with _full_ rulebooks containing more advanced rules and even different types of game to make it even more immersive - or the rulebooks are all available at Wargames Vault each for about the price of a month's Tier 1 sub. As a Patron, you also get access to the unit creator rules, so you can design rules for anything that's not already there and cost it up using the same formula Gaetano does.
And at the Tier 2 (about £10) you get all the STLs OPR release that month (usually a bunch of minis over about four armies),as well as a discount code so you can get previous ones way cheaper. _And_ they often do deals with other creators, getting you bonus tester models on top of what they're already producing.
Corvus Belli are also happy for you to proxy models and their rules are free
Not only does 3d printing encourage a more expansive hobby but with further tools and training each of us can create our own models! That's the truly exciting part for me.
Well said!
more expensive?
@@Wilzeck no no, he said more expansive, not expensive
@@Wilzeck 3d printing is generally more cheaper.
@@Wilzeckit's more expensive if you want a killteam or a 500 point army.
I don't really have much interest in having 1 big army, if you're like me and just want some of everything. All the cool models, it's much much cheaper.
More expensive to start, like €250 Vs €150 but you can get probably 2x or 3x the models.
Then on top of that you can get 2000 points for less than a bottle of resin (€25) instead of €600+
More expensive to start, then cheaper and cheaper the more you print.
dunk the models in hot water before removing supports. They soften up and there are (almost) no pimples. Much easier. Also works for straightening models
I have done this to straighten but not to help remove the supports, I'll will give it a try.
100%! A lot of us 3d printers were cringing watching those supports being pulled off dry haha.
@@cameronrich2160 For sure, once you try it and see how much better it makes things.
Does that work for filament too?
i use warm water in my ultrasonic and the supports fall off after
the $45+ for one model stuff really does throw it all into sharp relief, especially since that's the on-the-sprue price. X-wing Miniatures are pretty much the poster child for high-cost single model packs, and you have to get as far as a pre-painted Millenium Falcon model before you hit that price range.
Yeah, it really hard to justify spending that kind of $ on 1 miniature. An entire bottle of resin cost $45 hell my printer was on sale 2 weeks ago for $139usd
I feel bad for people who play warhammer in other countries than uk, I mean it’s not cheap here but even after exchange it’s way the hell cheaper than america
I always need to put on an extra $10-20 for shipping to because there is no GW or gaming store in my town.
@@oliverwithers9736 If you think Americans have it bad, you probably didn't count Eastern Europe where the absolutely CHEAPEST store (They have some really nice discounts) with GW products I could find in my country price their Start Collecting boxes at 10% of minimal monthly wage. Latest Octarius release is equivalent to 25% of monthly wage or even more for some people lol
@@Baell1 it’s fine where I live in Eastern Europe. The uk. Also if you are earning minimum wage war hammer shouldn’t be what you spend your money on
Thank you for sharing you and your kid painting. Watching the next generation of nerds learn is great. If GW doesn't want to hate their community, they should stop treating the community like it's out to get them.
Thanks for the kind words! I agree with you as well.
To be fair, GW has stated that they make the rules to sell minis, which is where they make their profit. For all ways that matter to a corporation, *MONEY!*, 3D printing and those that use them are out to get them. They don't care if you buy the rule books, they care about your mini buying from them. Anything that lowers that is a threat.
Obviously, GW doesn't have to build it's business around the profit they get from minis, but that's what they have done and I don't think they could shift from that easily.
@@technomancermagus8357 Perhaps they can't shift from it, but they COULD take the opposite approach towards 3D printing and do what some other miniature sellers do: Make their own STL files. It still lets them be profitable (How many hobbyists really have a 3D printer by now? They'll still be selling their minis themselves), it gives them another branch of sales, and most importantly: The community will hate them slightly less.
@@technomancermagus8357 I agree, I think they should offer 3d printers, resin, etc. All with GW branding and offer stls as a part of their business model and not a replacement.
@@littleappocolypse what a friendly guy you are hahaha
This is great and these models are fantastic! You sounded a little hard on yourself but you made great time painting for sure.
Thanks... yeah I really wanted to get it done, but realty is I just couldn't paint it all.
I could have printed that entire army in one go as I own 2 large resin, and one small one, all that print faster than the Photon (which was my first resin printer and still has a number of features that I like). I am impressed with how far you got in a day. And, with your shop. Really nice.
I have a LOT to say about GW and 3d printing, but I'll keep it to this. You cannot make the storm respect you.
I know right... yeah and with that kind of printing power this would be easy! Thanks for watching.
It looks amazing!
A warning as well: it seems to be recommend that you use a rubber scraper to interact with the vat as to avoid damaging the FEP film. I didn’t know this and ended up heavily damaging my FEP and the LED with resin due to damaging the film. I scraped cured resin out and ripped the film.
Someone recommended lightly running the back of your fist against the bottom of the vat to lightly pop off any cured resin that builds up there.
Hope this helps you preserve your resin printing for days to come! You’re already doing way better than I was!
Thanks for the Tips, i try to be gentle with my plastic scraper, but i do need to get a rubber one.
Just watched this love how much One Page Rules has grown in the last year, their models have improved even more and their website has had a makeover since this video came out. I myself saw this and made and painted a 2,000pts army of Robot Legions, totally worth it. Good video and great results in the end.
For sure they have. Thanks a lot.
Just a heads up, those look like vinyl gloves. Vinyl is NOT recommended for use with resin (and a number of other things like organic fats) since the chemicals can penetrate them. I'd recommend using nitrile gloves if you like disposable, or suitable rubber gloves (please check which rubber it's using to make sure it's resin safe).
They probably perform better than no gloves but you really should use nitrile gloves (and I've never seen nitrile come in transparent, correct me if I'm wrong). You can also use latex or neoprene, but don't use them until they fail; you should probably dispose of them well before that point.
Edit: Rewrote comment for clarity.
Thanks
Love the legally distinct naming conventions of this game
I know, I think they did a good job with that, avoid IP issue but still be in theme with the grim dark setting.
TAO makes me laugh every time.
Yeah, the funniest part if that GW can't really sue them because they are distinct enough that they just have to bring all the IP that GW copied to court and be like "if we are in breach.... they are in breach."
I cannot believe that I have found a video with such a title, which is NOT EVEN CLICKBAIT
Haha, well thanks!
This is legitimate and righteous. I can’t believe you had the drive to pull this off
Thanks. The back of my mind is egging me to try this again next month with a different army...
I appreciate the fact that you did this entire video, on probably THE most affordable printer in the market right now; Proving that anyone who wants to do this, can do this, relatively cheap, :)
Thanks! It might not be the biggest, but it's affordable and capable for sure.
May I ask the name of the printer?
@L M It's any Anycubic Photon, but this model is way outdated now. Anycubic has much newer better printers on their site.
@@FacilityD20 thanks for the info :)
ProTIp, if you soak your prints in warm water for a few minutes, the supports almost fall off and makes removal easy.
thanks
Oh, so you didn't just want to print the army in 24 hours, but paint it too? Damn, that's ambitious.
I feel like I can still do it, just need to make a few adjustments.
@@FacilityD20 now that's the right attitude! I can't wait to see you succeed!
I so want a resin printer purely for bits, I prefer GW models to any I’ve seen on MMF, Thingiverse, etc but custom helmets, bases, extra bits to make my units more unique/personalised is waaaaaay worth the price alone imo
There are a lot of custom guns, backpacks and shoulder pads out there for free to.
Great paint job. Love the color shifting paint.
I think my gripe with the OPR robots is that they have a lot of fabric bits sculpted on. Which does look pretty good, but also makes it a bit more involved to paint. With the GW Necrons, they're all metal, meaning painting them is as simple as spraying with a metallic spray paint. From there, it's just a couple details, maybe a once over with a Contrast paint or off-brand equivalent. The cloth adds more painting steps, which is the bane of the lazy mini painter.
(Though this does shed some light as to why GW would add them to the big starter sets. Along with the Space Marines, they're easier to paint for newbies.)
GW Necrons are easier faster to pint for the generic warriors and stuff yes for sure.
Awesome. I'm willing to buy a 3d printer to try out some of these awesome models that OPR and other companies are releasing, and seeing this into practice is really encouraging.
For me it's not so much about the price than the diversity, the convenience of being able to print a full army in one day when an order take days or weeks to come, on top of the fact that some STL models out there are just so gorgeous... Well, really hope you're gonna release more videos like that!
Shipping time is a big deal for me to because I live in a remote area and it takes a long time. Pick up a printer and go for it, it is a great hobby in itself.
Not only does it encourage a more expansive hobby but with further tools and training each of us can create our own models! That's the truly exciting part for me.
@@wiggy5209 and for the stores it’s still fairly neutral as you still need paints, accessories, resin, and will likely spend more on food and other products rather than dumping everything into price locked products with average margins.
For an easier time removing prints from the plate, get a thin metal palette knife. The type with a rounded tip and a slight bend. The thin metal slips under then print easily allowing you to get prints off much easier than the plastic scraper.
I have one, but I was nervous to use it on my resin printer, but I think the aluminum on the build plate is tough enough to stand up to it.
I've used a palette knife, but I've found that the best thing is a weeding "spatula" from a silhouette (or cricut) vinyl cutter. It's a personal preference but I think it works awesome, so much so, that I bought one just for the purpose, so I don't get resin on the one for my silhouette.
For a cheap upgrade, look at swapping out the ball joint on your printer with one which uses threaded screws. I've not had to check level since replacing mine on the anycubic photon.
100% ordering the kit I found online!
Hardly see the little videos in my recommended. I've been really interested in both 40K and 3D printing lately so I'd just like to take this moment to praise the Omnisiah
Thanks, it's hard for little channels to get out there.
I really don't understand how you only have 3k subs. This whole channel is very informative.
I appreciate that! The YT algorithm is very hard to break into... this is the first video that I have managed to do it, I have gone up nearly 1000subs this week, it is blowing my mind right now.
OPR stuff is excellent, and you have done a good job! makes me want to try the same challenge myself with my friends. I think you could have changed up some of your processes to speed things up in a number of ways, such as adding more to the build plate and using a different resin (or just cleaning in IPA/Acetone), and of course the paint scheme like you mentioned. really good effort, good to see the channel is growing
For sure... I feel like I need another kick at the can with some Alien Hives from OPR
I tried this challenge myself but couldnt get the colour shift results like Troys. Mine just went lovely metalic green. So resprayed blqck gloss and started again.. Same result. So sad.
That moment with your son was wholesome and amazing, you seem like a great dad keep up the amazing content.
Thank you! My boys love hanging out there with me.
@@FacilityD20 they are very lucky to have a dad like you.
@@leftwingdragon6235 thank you! I am doing my best.
@@FacilityD20 😂
This is real neat to see. I’m planning on getting into 3D printing and want to use their minis to proxy a massive much cheaper tyranid army
working on printing a sweet model now that can be used for Nids. Stay tuned.
tyranids have some nice sculpts out there =)
me too. been using "virusesofdeaths' models
Heck yes! I love Onepagerules and I'm happy they're getting more coverage :D
Working on another print from them today.
I'm definitely going to have to check out that OPR site, so many sick looking minis I saw from your quick scroll through!!
100%
I was already looking for a 3D printing deal to jump in on and this video completely has me sold! Great job!
Glad I could help!
anycubic always have good deals! i got my old photon for like 99 bucks
I call it "managing my idiots". Keep the printer, washer, and cure box running as much as possible while you are doing other things.
Haha good one.
Great project. I didn't know that OPR had such nice models, and I think that one day I will have to test those colour shift paints. 😃
Have you tried using a metal scraper to remove the models from the build plate? From my experience that works better than the plastic scraper. You can simply place the build plate upright on one of the short edges and run it down fast along the plate. I use the platic scraper only to stirr the resin in the vat or to scrape it from the FEP when I clean the vat. It is also much easier to wiggle it under the supports. When you don't hold the build plate by the screw it is most unlikely that you accidentally unlevel it.
I'm a bit surpised that you have to wash your models for 30 minutes. I use regular resin and I only have to wash them for 4-6 minutes in methylated spirits.
Nothing washes like IPA... thats for sure.
can i just say i love this video.
why?
you show every step. even cleaning the plate, curing, pouring the resin
where as being told the steps or reading them is scary as your mind is making shit up
seeing every step 1 by 1. makes it feel alot simpler and makes me more confident
Thank you, I'm happy you enjoyed it
Onepagerules also let's you use your GW miniatures, as all of it's armies and units have a counterpart for AOS and 40K, so you can play Warhammer with free rules. Battle Brothers = Space Marines, Battle Sisters = Sisters of Battle, Eternal Wardens = Stormcast Eternals, and so on (There's even Squats and Space Skaven). No need for codexes (besides lore) and mountains of errata.
Squats are cool man
Late to the party, but I got the Fulament flex plate, hit it with 80 grit sand paper and it is absolutely the 2nd best investment I've made to 3d printing.
You can bend the plate back and the edge of the raft pops off and you can slide your scraper right underneath and it pops right off.
The best thing I got was an Nfep. I've had 0 issues since I've gotten it and the suction is almost nonexistent now
I do need to look into something like this
Completely understandable, you still accomplished so much! I could be painting for 3 hours and only have the pauldrons of my space marines trimmed lmaoo
I know... painting minis take so much longer then people think
Great project, love to see some Canadians out here! I think you could have packed way more on your build plate, and put more resin in your vat, and if youre worried about stuff sticking to your fep just make a thicker base layer. It wastes more resin but drastically reduces the chance of mistakes. The chunks on the fep will just become part of the base layer.
Thanks and thanks for the tips as well
A hair dryer would cut the wait time between colorshift coats down to a minute or so.
I should have done that.
If you get levelling problems like that then a plate leveler without that ball joint in it would be a good idea. Levelling after every print it nuts! I had my original photon for a year before I broke it, but probably only ever levelled 3 or 4 times. I've got a mono now and only ever done it the once.
Also, you can fit 11 of the basic robots on your build plate so go ahead and load it up!
Great project though, I'm enjoying collecting my OPR Robot army too!
I have a bed leveling upgrade on order! Thanks for watching. My buddy never levels his photon either...
I don't think those were nitrile gloves, just make sure that you aren't using straight latex as they dont have the same protection for your skin as nitrile
I don't know what they are, but they don't feel like latex of nitrile, now I am curious so I am going to look after work. Whatever they are the resin don't seem to seep through.
Also thanks for showing the vallejo colour shift paint looks great will add that and some of the printing tips.
You are welcome
That's a great looking army. The colour-shift paint is so effective for creating an alien appearance.
The studio space is fantastic. Is that a Newfoundland Accent?
Thank you very much! Yes that is a Newfoundland accent haha!
the shirt...
Pro tip I learned on my Photon Mono. Your FEP WILL break eventually. I put a cut up plastic iPad screen protector over my screen for when this happens. It's much easier to just peel this off than it is to scrape your screen. In my experience I always ruin my screen by doing scraping it so it helps with that too.
I really should do this, it is only a matter of time before I spill on it.
Those are gorgeous looking models. And the ability to print your own, at a fraction of the exorbitant prices Gee Dub gouges for, I can get into this. I'm loving what I'm seeing with the One Page Rules, as well. Keep up the great work
Thank you.
For doing anything like this again, I'd suggest getting a magnetic flexible build plate solution like Sovol or Wham Bam - with 2 plates then you can kick off the next print immediately before you clean off the other steel plate... because you remove the steel plate before removing parts you don't have the same chance of getting our bed out of level either
I really need to get me one of those, or 2 like you suggest!
I LOVE! OPR for starters their rule sets are amazing so well done, all army lists and basic rules out for free and get updated all the time including new units being added over time. Also their models they are designing are getting better and better with each and every month. I joined them recently and bought up all of their Robot Legions stuff that I missed out on 😁 great stuff bud.
Defiantly, they are doing an amazing job.
@@FacilityD20 For sure I couldnt agree any more. Printing is just getting easier and cheaper all the time. Hell even if you old wanted part models or bits to use for current models it is well worth it as well.
@@yagsipcc287 I like that they had all thir mins split up to, so if I just needed to print a leg or arm I could, that's great for recovering failed prints.
Yeah, really enjoying OPR as well. Currently putting together an Alien Hive army. The fact that I was able to print a "Trygon" for under $10 (5 for file, 5 for resin) is insane. So now im subbed to them and Gear Guts ....pray for me before I drown in resin XD
@@demon1103 stick around because some alien hives are coming soon!
I've got minis that have sat unpainted for... well, a bit longer than 24 hours. Really great job!
Me to haha
Just found you through this video! Awesome content! :D got a like and subscribe from me! Even though you never got it all painted in the challenge i would consider the fact that you got it all printed in the time frame given an absolute win! Very awesome content!
Thank you very much for thr kind words and sub! It means a lot to me!
Incredible video! I'd love to see a workshop tour, and see how the room operates with ventilation and such.
Thanks... stay tuned 😉
Table top miniatures and 3d printing feel like they were made for each other!
Personally i think the worst thing GW did was move away from Die-cast.
Should consider reintroducing die-cast for the specials, make their plastic miniatures a much more competitive price and actively sell 3d models along with promoting 3d printing as becoming the evolution of table top gaming!
I totally agree
clean sound, tidy and clear editing, good subject matter, subscribed bradah
Much appreciated! I am trying to get better and improve all those things you mentioned, putting a video together is as much work as the project itself. It nice to hear that you noticed that. I don't want to get over polished, but I still want to step my production and editing up a few more notches.
Love the effervescent look to the RL Nice work there! . I have to say you mess with your printer a whole lot more than I do with mine. I have a Elegoo Saturn, and I set the level once since I had it over 3 months ago. I can also print those same minis in less than 3 hours each with it, and twice the number of them with the big bed. I considered getting a small anycubic, but watching you sweat over the level, I may get a elegoo mars instead. I also printed those and never had to add anything to them to get great prints.
I have to trust haha... no my friend has the exact same one, and never has to re-level it... i plan to upgrade it, but the think was on sale the other week for $139.00 so I can't complain.
@@FacilityD20 That's why I was looking at one, they were so inexpensive, I don't like the design of that plate mount from what I can see in your video. My saturn is a solid ball joint and has a mono screen. My burn in layers is set to 8 seconds - 6 layers with 10 layer transition then , 2.4 second per layer. 170 lift speeds. Try setting your slicer to a Saturn and it will show you just how much faster it can be.
@@Fredster9984 by printer needs a min of 8s per layer... right now I have it on 9s if I had the mono x with the better screen I could do it.
@@FacilityD20 Yes, the Mono screen allows me to go to 2.3-2.5 seconds per layer. I use 8 seconds for the first 5 burn on layers! That's a huge difference. Makes me a huge pile of shame! LOL
Man, buy a magnetic build plate. You’ll win 20 minutes between each print. Also on my printer i never do the level again, and never fail. you definitely has a problem with the printer :/ but it’s awesome job and awesome vid. Happy i saw it!
I just ordered the build plate leveling upgrade kit yesterday... tempted to order the Magnetic build plate as well.
Amazing!! I was just looking at these same minis and thinking of printing them. Definitely lots of great models from OPR.
Yes! Go for it.
How ya now. Great video. Glad to see some more Canadian creators. Keep it up
Thank you! Only a few of us around it seems.
I use a hair dryer to force dry in between coats. I haven't tried it with resin yet, but it works on plastic and metal. 👍
Should still work on resin I bet.
Looks great! Just wondering you didn’t wear any type of filtration mask when working with the resin. Was wondering if there is a reason or setup that did not have you need it. As far as I’m aware resin is highly toxic until cured
I have an exhaust hood in the work bench.
@@businessathlet3587 I want to exhaust the printer directly out of the building with a duct fan and some flex hose, but I haven't settled on where this printer is going to sit and don't want to drill a 4in hole through the wall yet. I was really worried about the fumes when I first got the printer, but the room is big and well ventilated and with the exhaust hood going, you can't even smell anything, still the plan for the future is direct venting.
Oh man, I remember my single Photon days! I have since upgraded and added a plethora of sizes of resin printers to my print service!
I still have 3 Photons that I use sometimes but not nearly as much as I did when I first got them with the new mono-screen printers I have.
I think in the future an upgrade is due for me to... I would like a little more capacity.
@@FacilityD20 I would suggest a Saturn then, its 4-5x faster only 500$ and has 3x the build volume as a photon
@@FacilityD20 go for the new DLP printer man!
Really great video! Do you think you could turn down the background music just a notch? It was kind of hard to hear you at certain parts.
Yes, still trying to work out the best levels for balance. Thanks noted
@@FacilityD20 I was also wondering what kind of 3D printer you used? The final prints looked amazing.
@@sentinel1877 It is the orginal Anycubic Photon, it was on sale the other week for 138usd. However it is an old model and there are far better ones available now.
Badass video and paint job. I want to some dark eldar with GSW color changing paint, so this was pretty handy
Nice to hear it was helpful! Thanks.
what did you do for the basing on them? They look really good overall, and that colorshift paint really adds to that advanced robotic vibe.
Thanks it's Cork board and plaster tape. I have a video on my channel and pinned in a comment above that shows this paint scheme and the bases.
Shop set up is amazing. The range hood over your airbrushing area really blends in nicely. Great to see the little guy on the video as well.
Thank you, Glad you enjoyed it. The range hood really helps draw out the airbrush paint dust.
I'm really envious of your setup! Looks super clean and organized and also the outcome was amazing! Keep it up!
Thanks a lot!
AMAZING work, i have a photon too but is really hard make good prints with it
One day, hopefully soon, I will upgrade.
We will welcome Garbage Wreckshop Infringement Assistant with bats. 🏏
haha nice.
Super-cool. I'd love to see more One Page Rules Army videos! I'm using soy resin right now and I have my parts washer filled with mean green to wash, I'll dunk the parts basket in another container of distilled water a bit and then I use a pickle jar with distilled water on the curing station for water-curing. It works really great with the water and I get much crisper cures. Give it a try sometime. The standard plastic pickle jar fits on the curing platform perfectly.
I have been interested it seeing how the Soy Resin works, ill likely give it a go one day. Thanks for the info.
GamesWorkshop: “NO MORE ALTERNATIVE MINIATURES! NOOOOO MOOOREEEE ALTERNATIVE MINIATURES! REEEEEEEEEH”
haha... good luck stopping it now.
Ouch when he took a shortcut on painting to meet the arbitrary timeline. Great video!
You know... that still bothers me haha.
While I do think the prices of the models are ridiculous, I don’t think that just being able to print an entire army in one day is good for the hobby.
If you print an entire army in one day then you’ve got nothing else to work towards. Personally, I like being able to buy new models month by month and painting them as I go.
You do have a point but then isn’t the hobby more open to people on a budget
Another army muhahaha
Next setup should be a mono screen! Cut the layer times to 2-3s! Looks good tho
I want one yes haha
Yeah GW really need to take a look at the prices
Definitely.
@@FacilityD20
Not really.
lets say $50 for a box.
$5 for packaging, transport and logistics, including warehousing etc.
$5 for design
$5 for rules design
$5 machine maintenance
$10 for taxes
$10 for material, including waste cost and plastic material certification and lost packaging/material.
$10 Profit.
$5 of which goes to the store(if it's not a GW, but i'm unsure)
@@azir64 I can find an FLGS that offers 25% discount, and they're still making money on it. Normal business models mean GW makes at least a 50% margin, but since almost all production is in-house and the shear volume GW of product sells mean design, packaging maintenance etc. are going add up to be just pennies per box. Better to assume GW's profit margins are 75%+ ...which could explain why their share price has increased 2000% since Jan'17.
Giving a like for the OPR shout out, stayed for the printing
Thanks!!! Stick around and watch a few more videos, or come back anytime!!!
"I love GW." Well I would advice you to seek help. You are possibly in an abusive relationship.
At least you are taking steps to improve things.
Haha!
Finaly bought my self a Anucybic photon ultra dlp printer. I have no experience at all when it comes to 3d printing so, glad that i found your channel :) Subbed. Waiting for some more part so i can get started with miniatures :)
Very cool! Thanks!
What a misleading title
what?
Well done mate, you got me started in OPR and printing out their minis. GW is just waaaaay too expensive. Thank you for sharing.
Glad I could help Thanks for watching as well!
These look awesome! I got a printer a while ago but haven't done much printing. This video has inspired me to try a print tonight!
Go for it!
Nice surprise at the end of the video. The Facility is really working overtime!
Thanks! It was a busy few days haha.
One page rules is the shit. It’s exclusively what me and my buddies use for our game rules. Their 3D models are awesome as well as you can see with their robot armies models
For sure!
I just stumbled across your channel today and I have to say I am always happy when I find a Canadian content creator. I live in Atlantic Canada so I sympathize with how expensive the hobby can be. So much so that I joined the 3D printing movement in June of 2020. If you live on the East Coast I would love some tips for local shops that carry more than just Citadel or Vallejo world war colour palette paints. We need some variety here it is like a hobby desert!
Yes, I'm out here in NL, not many stores here wither sword ans Steele in st. Johns is good. Also meeplemart.com is good to
My Anycubic Photon has been put away for 8 months or so, this has inspired me to bust it out and try some of those models. Thanks!
Great to hear! Thanks for watching too!
@@FacilityD20 I got some of the machines printed, Looking good. Some failures but that's normal. Now I'm using 2 part epoxy putty to fix what I can instead of tossing them.
That is awesome man, thanks for letting me know you busted your machine back out. I just ran off a Carnovor Rex from alien hives last night too, its bad ass.
Props to You for trying this challenge with just one small printer!
The optimizer in me was mildly triggered by the unused space between models but you still managed to get em all printed 👍
Thanks... I have trust issue with my bed level and suction pressure, so I played it safe.
@@FacilityD20 I managed to pull it off with an inferior machine, than the Photon. By lowering the lift time, getting the rafts to interconnect, using the best tested expo time (I have to overexpo by 0.4 sec, making my machine's expo time 1.5, because of my "stable" Z axis...) and having a tiny little light-off delay. Also PTFE spray. Don't forget the PTFE. I don't care what others say about "learning the settings, PTFE is a crutch". PTFE helps you do things with your machine otherwise it is incapable.
HOWEVER!
The extra forces present in such a tightly packed plate might damage your machine in the long run, speeding up material wear. I do not recommend packing them tight just for the sake of using all space available, but if it gets you a model in, then go for it.
My method of printing a batch of models is to group them on the plate by height, to optimize printing times. In your case, the only time you could've saved was maybe about 15-30 minutes, by switching one of the HQ-s with a warrior. Meaning: having two plates, one with 4 warriors and the overlord and mancer, and having one plate with 6 warriors.
If I were really fancy and trusted everything to print flawlessly, I would've spread the spider's pieces all over the other plates and put all high pieces together with the spider's long legs.
Only 30-50 minutes of time saved, but hey, you take what you can get.
@@balazszsigmond826 my exposure time is 9s on this machine with this resin. You are 100% on the heights the techomancer on the bed with the warriors took a good chuck of extra time printing that staff... I have had so may experiences with lift speed pulling supports from the minis I also lowered that speed down to... I would love to upgrade to a mono x in the future. Thanks for leaving your experience it was interesting.
Awesome video! I can barely commit to finishing one model in a day let alone a whole army. Great work!
Most days me either haha
Ayyy, the old Anycubic Photon. That was my first printer and it was so nice. It just always worked. I only ever had one failed print.
That's awesome!
Very nice edit and it's easy to see you put so much effort for this video. loved it
Thanks a ton! It took hours to edit this video haha.
You should calculate all costs, not just the resin, energy consumption, cleaning process, and materials to use like masks and filters, cloves, alcohol, etc. then the costs are way higher still lower than for 1000 points of GWs miniatures but not that far away anymore. Since Covid, the costs for ABEK filters and alcohol are gone up about 4 times as much as before. Idk how much you pay for resin but here it cost 60€ for 1000g. A complete filled plate with 8 Space Marine-sized miniatures cost me around 12 to 15€, for printing, cleaning, and energy consumption.
I thought about that... but then there are so many variables like... how many washes I get with the IPA... how many gloves I use per print (Power is super cheap here) then I feel like I would have to add on cost for GW for shipping and modeling etc... so I kept it simple. One day I will do a video like this because it is a great idea. Off the top of my head with a few ballparks I would only add about another $2-3 to this whole army.
@@FacilityD20 I have made an excel sheet for that. I can translate it from German to English and make it available on my dropbox or google. I don't calculate every little piece too. I just wanted to see roughly the real cost of 3d printing. It is mostly like prototyping and prototyping isn't really cheap. I talked with a friend lately and as I explained to him, what he needs besides a printer and resin he said it's way to expensive for just a few miniatures. If you do some hobbies where you use a lot of things that you also need for resin printing then it doesn't feel that it is expensive to add a printer. I never thought about that before, but as my friend asked some questions I realized how many things you need just to print, clean, and harden a resin miniature. It was like, yeah you need alcohol to wash them and cloves, and ya need a UV lamp to harden the resin and you better wear a half mask with abek filters when you do this.
think it would be helpful if you lower your minis closer to the Build plate, it looked like the supports held them pretty far up off the build plate, every layer (in the support costs time and Resin).
Thanks for the tip
Even washing in water for so long, I can tell you didn’t get all the resin off. I use IPA even on water washable resin. Use a final pass with an old toothbrush dipped in IPA to make sure all of the details are clean. Also wear gloves until resin is fully cured.
I know, IPA is just so expensive here, but it does work thr best for sure.
Great vid. What are you using to clean the water washable resin? Water of course, but did you add something? Dish soap?
Just a drop or 2
@@FacilityD20 Do you have other tipps for using WW Resin? I plan to use it exclusively. e.g. how do you handle the remains? The contaminated water?
Eyyyyy es my robo bois! That's awesome to see them pop up on my feed. I need to finish putting my army together
Nice. thanks for watching
This was the first video I found for your channel, went back and watched a few others. Easiest decision to subscribe of my life. While the title came across as click-baity (with good reason, given the abyss of the algorithm), the content you present is consistently super high quality, engaging, and above all incredibly interesting to enjoy. I think I've watched this one like 4 times alone, and I discovered it maaaaybe the 24th?
Thank you very much, I am trying to get better at these videos... and yes that algorithm is a tough nut to crack.
If you had a bigger printer, you could have done the entire army in 2 plates. Photon mono X is currently on sale, good time to upgrade 😉
Tell me about it! I wish I had one.
@@FacilityD20 just ordered mine a couple of days ago, gonna have a run at a reaver titan, and if that goes well, Warlord will be next 😅
I love that you play a fart sound effect with every transition
haha thanks?
I haven’t leveled my print bed in over 100 prints lol. No fails except 1 that I meshmixed myself and left a gap in the model I didn’t know about.
That is amazing. What printer are you using?
@@FacilityD20 Mars elegoo pro 2. I pretty much do no maintenance to the printer. Granted the fail or two I did have I emptied the vat and got the stuff stuck to the Fap off. My buddy says he doesn’t even empty the Vat. Just carefully pulls it out. I just print, scrape my models off, throw the plate back on and print again. Nothing in between. I may regret it eventually. But damn near 100 prints without leveling the print bed.
@@cameronrich2160 I have heard a lot of good things about that printer.
Just painted a storm talon gunship new in box that I never got around to painting. The RRP was $75 AUD, that same product is now $95 AUD. That is pretty crazy, and that was bought in 2015, so 5 years. Im not short on cash or anything, but the prices are pretty high. Generally cant walk out of games workshop without spending at least $ 250 if your serious about adding a serious element to your army!
I know... there is so much i want but the prices put thr breaks on most times.
That metal casing has to be a drag. I think the over top lid got to be easier. But very cool.
Yeah especially for me because I don't have the height to open it enough that it stands on its own.
That paintjob turned out amazing!!
Thanks! I think it was worth the extra time.
Hey there, really liked the video, this convinced me to get a 3d printer in the end, really like how you explain the process. One thing that’s helped me save a bit of time is the flint reed method for leveling, I’ve been able to go multiple prints without releveling since I started using that method.
I think my printer has an issue in the ball joint at the plate coming loose, I just got a leveling kit upgrade that i am going to install.
I love the thought about 3D printing but unfortunately I don't have the safe space to place one :( one day!
When you do go for it, it's game changing.
Get two wam bam slap plates.
Will eliminate the leveling and will allow to swap the build plate out for cleaning.
I just ordered a bed leveling upgrade kit. Hope that helps