While replacement with new parts is often a technological up-grade the occasion often arises where the integrity of the restoration becomes a factor. Not unlike the restoration of a classic automobile there are certain bikes whose unique appearance is a vital component of the final result. In the future I'm going to consider the importance of the pedals correctness as a factor in my assessment of how to best process my bicycles. Aside from cost-savings this makes one a more complete mechanic. Many times when the major work is done it is just this type of "fine point" where a quiet evening can be enjoyed doing something that answers that "What more can I do for this bike?" question. If one still enjoys their work, and I hope you all do, this is a simple and cost-effective effort that will provide that all-important finishing touch. Thank You !
Hi RJ, your videos have helped me with my '80s Peugeot so much! I've been able to repair everything except for the wheels due to the spokes being just *way* too much trouble to true them (kept snapping and the brakes never slowed enough, so done with those)....so I bought some Aluminum alloy 700C wheels and they worked out great based on your video on updating from 27" to 700C. My pedals were the last item that needed work and I'm going to tackle those tonight. Thanks, great videos are hard to find and yours are some of the best instructional ones I've seen. Thanks and Greetings from Atlanta, GA!
Just did my lyotard pedals, definitely 11 bearings on the inside and 9 on the outside, which means 2 french bearings now forever live on rj's garage floor 😀
Nice one. Just bought some of those pedals not really knowing what I am buying and I am glad to see that they are very easy to overhaul. Thanks for the video, very well explained.
When I do this job, and other bearing overhauls, the only difference in my procedure is that I am a bit more generous with grease. I want a thin coat on all internal surfaces (except rare ones where it is not indicated) to prevent rust, particularly threaded surfaces. I also make sure the bearings have plenty. If a bit oozes out when I assemble, I just wipe it off. I'm really bummed out when I open something up and find rusted threads, etc. I'd rather find residual grease than rust.
That is a very interesting statement. I wonder if it is backed up with solid engineering evidence. There is so much hearsay in the bicycle maintenance world. I can't see how a full fill can harm. There is no pressure on the grease. Any excess simply oozes out as you tighten things up. The lubricating action takes place between the balls and the races while they are under load. The pressures there are high. All but a molecular scale film is forced out as a matter of course. Whether there is a larger or smaller amount of grease outside the contact zone seems quite immaterial, unless there is so little the contact zone is not replenished. In the case of high speed bearings, I concede there may be things happening I do not understand, but no bearing on a bicycle operates at speeds a bearing designer would consider high.
Racers have some crazy nightmares about bearing lubrication, like whether their grease will cost them half a second in a time trial. If they want to run a thin film of light oil in their bearings, and have to maintain them between every race, that is their business. Real people want to maintain their bearings every few years at most and don't mind a tiny bit of extra work put into stirring grease, so long as that grease keeps their bearings from grinding to ruin.
@@elijahtinsley4825 Sheldon Brown says you can't have too much grease in your bearings. He is correct because any excess squeezes out as you tighten them down. So you can have excess, but never "too much". I trust SB's lifetime of practical experience over GCN's racing theories in this. The GCN lads can lube with 4 drops of machine oil in each pedal to shave .00002 seconds off their time trials & relube every 10 meters if they want to, but the average rider gets no benefit from that; just a needless increase in maintenance. For practical riders a fully packed bearing is usually best, with practice you get an idea of how much grease to put in to fill the race with minimal excess. If your bearings are "sliding" you're doing something wrong, but it's not "too much" grease at fault. RJ's method is adequate, he uses marine grease which won't wash or melt out, so you can get by with less of it since it usually lasts longer; he's taking advantage of the long-wearing properties of the grease to economize on how much he's using on his many fixer-upper bikes. I am also more generous with packing bearings even though I also use marine grease, but I only have a couple bikes to maintain, so I'm not really concerned with how much I'm using, I've been using the same big tub for I think the last 8 years & picked up another tub on sale recently.
I love watching your videos, but this one was a bit sad for me as you fast fowarded the restoration of the chrome on the pedals ... Just kidding but I would have loved to watch the whole process
How did you shine the chrome so nicely!?!? I usually use aluminum foil to get ride of rust, but you got the whole pedal to look like new. I'd like to know what you used to make this old pedal look like new again. Thanks.
Those cleaned up really well. I remember having pedals like those as a kid and I know I overhauled at least one pair of this style of pedal back in the day.
Just overhauled by lyotard pedals for my peugeot. I removed the entire reflector pieces on both pedals. They were in bad shape (and missing the actual reflector-y plastic pieces) They appear to be somewhat replaceable, so is it probably fine to use them without? Certainly looks pretty nice now that they're all shine up. Also, any ideas on a dust cap alternatives? I'm missing one and replacements on ebay are NOT cheap currently.
After evapo rust solution. Do you have to polish a lot to Make it all shiny ? Or just rainse off with water? I remember back in autoshop class, teacher had us dip spark plug in battery acid for cleaning. What do I think using battery acid to clean heavy rust bicycle parts?
Hello. What kind of ball bearings do you use? It is a Shimano brand or much, much cheaper Chinese? For wheel hub I use Shimano but here I have dilemma!
I go on Amazon and buy a bag of 144 bearings. www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000AO5KOW/ref=nosim/youtube25-20 www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0012LHL9O/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
I have seen you show a bag that the new ball bearings came in before... is that something u get from a local bike shop, amazon, or some other source? A few bags of bearings , spools of cable and housing, and plenty of cable ends and such, might be good stuff to buy ahead of time... any info/advice on sourcing such things would be most appreciated. Thanks again for this awesome channel... I will look you up on other socual media and send you a picture of what my son and I tore down and put back together today for a fun project.
I buy bearings on Amazon. I buy cables/housings on Amazon, or sometimes other sources I find via google. My facebook page is linked in the description.
Bought an old 80s Peugeot few years ago with rusty Lyotard pedals. Had I seen this before, it would help me save some 40 € for a new pair and more importandly keep the bike in original configuration. Great video! Gonna look for the old Lyotards now and try to restore them the same way. Thanks!
I have one of those screw-on dust caps on my old Peugeot, but one is missing. Are they also "French sized" or can you buy any regular dust caps for pedals and put them on?
Cool video. I am going service some old Nishiki pedals that I am not using. No reason, you just inspired me. What did you use to scrub the pedals? Wire brush?
+51actual Mostly soaked them in Evaporust. ruclips.net/video/3THVf2xS33Y/видео.html I did use a little bit of steelwool and a brass bristle brush also.
Lyotard Pedals were very popular in the 1980's. We would attach toes clips and straps to them for racing and touring. Those cut outs on the inside and outside of the pedal is where the leather straps were fed through. Those are keepers!
They must have turned those Lyotard pedals out by the million. I'm amazed they spruced up so well. I may a have a pair somewhere ... if I find them I'll give them the same treatment.
Have been working my way through all the bearings on my 1980s french touring bike, so far done both wheels, bottom bracket seems to spin nicely so leaving that alone for the moment. Gave the pedals a bit of a spin by hand(much faster than they would be in use) and they both spun really well, but one appeared a little noisy, so thought perhaps time to look at it So onto youtube and found your video(just needed confirmation on how to get off the endcap), thanks, mine are basically exactly as shown. When I opened up the noisy one it basically looked brand new inside with the races, bearings and cups also looking brand new, it looked to be covered in only a thin layer of oil. Anyway, cleaned it all up(didnt replace the bearings) and repacked with lithium base grease(what I use to use on my car before they did away with grease nipples!). Adjusted the preload until I got any slack out, tightend down and it spun nicely and smoothly and without any noise. Yet when compared with the one I hadnt serviced it spun for about only half as long. Im guessing that's because it is probably light oil rather than grease that has been used? Of course in riding the bike I couldnt feel any difference, what are your thoughts on going back to using a light oil rather than grease. ps, I counted 9 bearings outer and 11 inner. also waiting for someone to do a howto on how to pull apart the freewheel on a helicomatic, had taken mine off to do the rear axle bearing(also looked brand new) and took the advantage to clean the cogs up properly(mistake) and the small amount of degreaser that leaked into the free wheel mech got it all gritty and sticky, after soaking as much engine oil as possible through the gaps on both ends of the mech I got it to spin freely again, but would like to clean it up properly.
On my pedals, as I tighten the locknut, it tightens the cone further and the axle gets stuck. So I used a screwdriver to hold the cone in place as I tighten the locknut. Just a hint if someone else had the same issue.
When changing bearings in hubs, pedals etc.. Is there a need or real value to go to a better grade of bearings like grade 25 and above? Thanks for the great videos!
very helpful! the pedals on my 84 schwinn world sport are very similar to these! im sure the process for adjustment is the same! i love these old bikes, they really were built to last and to be serviced by the owners, not like many bikes built new today
Very nicely made pedals. Unfortunately there aren't many manufacturers that makes good looking flat pedals for "normal bikes" (IE. not MTB or road), left. I think I would have sprayed them with some clear lacquer to prevent them from rusting again.
In all actuality the magnet is extremely handy; however tech folks know that by using a magnetic tool on a bearing, whether the balls, rollers, cages or races, you are actually imparting some magnetism to the part, therefore permanently making it attract metal debris and speeding up the part's failure.
Hi Rj, love your videos. They come in really handy with a project I'm working on. I was wondering if you could help me out with something? I've got these quill pedals that I want to overhaul, but I don't know how to remove the dust caps without ruining them. They're campagnolo styles screw-on dustcaps with teeth.
+Alexander S. Not sure if they make a special tool for that. Something like a strap wrench might work: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00K92810A/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
RJ, I have a set of Vintage Lyotard CA45 pedals that have the threaded nut cap. The pedal cage cover the end of the pedal and cap so if you get the wrench on there is no way to turn it. Any ideas? Looks like these www.pedalpedlar.co.uk/collections/bicycle-pedals/products/leyotard-45ca-vintage-quill-pedals
I have removed the cap from a similar pedal (not Lytard) and used a 21mm wrench. I had to turn it in small increments and keep moving the wrench around, but got the cap off, no problem.
+RJ The Bike Guy Found a cresent type adjustable wrench made by Stanley that was small enough to fit yet goes up to 26mm. Followed your video and now have what looks like a new set of pedals. s1086.photobucket.com/user/GLRmikem/media/20160415_223807_zpsrbuzeqkt.jpg.html
I am a big fan of your chanel, always learnt a great deal from it. Thank you again. (I just like to know how did you managed to turn the pretty rusty peddle to a brand new state?) Just like to know the method and the materials used on them. Regards
Hey R.J!, thanks for the vids!, im just wondering , have you ever had to try swapping the axles on these type of pedals?, i ride oldschool bmx , and find it hard to get half inch thread pedals
When replacing loose bearings on a cone and spindle , (pedal, front hub, whatever), if possible I try to get the spindle vertical. Next keep upward pressure while backing the cone off far enough the bearings have plenty of room to fall free. Get the spindle over a container before you let it drop down so the balls can fall free. Use the end of a plastic zip tie to chase any hanging balls out of the race, then hold the spindle in place while flipping it over to do the other side. To reassemble, drop the spindle in the hole while holding a finger over the other end to keep it from going fully into place. Fill the race with grease and balls, seat the cone, then hold it in place while you flip it over to do the other side.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I've done more gunsmithing than bike work. Often that means dealing with a single steel ball, spring loaded, and no way to properly document the size of a replacement after the original has been launched into the twilight zone.
Salgado Morientez hey ive seen the image of your pedal and your kind of pedal is a non rebuildable type. it is made one way. what you can do is drill into the center of te spindle the one in the middle with lines scored on it so you can open the whole assembly. then use a thread tap to make the end of the spindle threaded then its just a matter of placing a correct size cone and a one way washer and a locknut. and dont forget grind flat on the side of the thread so you can insert your one way washer in place.
Thank you for the video, second time I find one of your video really usefull (first time was to overhaul the old shimano sti brifters). Is there any tricks when the pedal body is wobbling?
Excellent. Thanks :) A question though: could it be you got the number of inside bearings wrong ? All my lyotards had 9 (4mm) on the outside and 11 (4mm) on the inside. At 5:35, it seems there is some space for one extra. Maybe one of the inside bearings ran away from you when opening it up :D ?
+Don Rad I got it at Harbor Freight. But you can find them lots of places. It's called a Drill Press Vise. I got it because it is low profile and works better for shooting videos.
I remember my dad used to have similar (or maybe those?) pedals on his road single speed. When I was 9 or 10 I used to sneak into garage and take it out for a spin, just to show off in front of my friends. Bike was so huge, I had to sit on the frame. But the worst part was that once I was barefoot, and those REALLY dug into soles of my feet! When I saw the video, all the memories came back to me :)
Can i use a 5 gallon bucket of evaporust and do half the frame in then flip it after 24 hours (to do the other half) or do i have to submerge it all at once in a Rubbermaid tub, etc??? Love your channel! Thanks so much!
@@RJTheBikeGuy I wanted to give an update to where I am at so far. I have some finish spots to focus on but the change already is remarkable. I haven't done any polishing yet just scrub/rinse. Check it out as I thought you would appreciate it after giving me advice. Thanks again! www.dropbox.com/sh/cksgd9n09rfokas/AADHjMb6k-3Ak7sFE5u1EUXJa?dl=0
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
While replacement with new parts is often a technological up-grade the occasion often arises where the integrity of the restoration becomes a factor. Not unlike the restoration of a classic automobile there are certain bikes whose unique appearance is a vital component of the final result. In the future I'm going to consider the importance of the pedals correctness as a factor in my assessment of how to best process my bicycles. Aside from cost-savings this makes one a more complete mechanic. Many times when the major work is done it is just this type of "fine point" where a quiet evening can be enjoyed doing something that answers that "What more can I do for this bike?" question. If one still enjoys their work, and I hope you all do, this is a simple and cost-effective effort that will provide that all-important finishing touch.
Thank You !
these came out really nicely! I love these restoration videos, bringing old parts back to their former glory :)
Hi RJ, your videos have helped me with my '80s Peugeot so much! I've been able to repair everything except for the wheels due to the spokes being just *way* too much trouble to true them (kept snapping and the brakes never slowed enough, so done with those)....so I bought some Aluminum alloy 700C wheels and they worked out great based on your video on updating from 27" to 700C. My pedals were the last item that needed work and I'm going to tackle those tonight. Thanks, great videos are hard to find and yours are some of the best instructional ones I've seen. Thanks and Greetings from Atlanta, GA!
Just did my lyotard pedals, definitely 11 bearings on the inside and 9 on the outside, which means 2 french bearings now forever live on rj's garage floor 😀
8 people disliked this video because he didn't give them the pedals. Bums.
The notched washer keeps the lock nut from turning the cone and binding the bearings, very good design.
Nice one. Just bought some of those pedals not really knowing what I am buying and I am glad to see that they are very easy to overhaul.
Thanks for the video, very well explained.
can you convert 9/16 over to 1/2" just be replacing the axles?
When I do this job, and other bearing overhauls, the only difference in my procedure is that I am a bit more generous with grease. I want a thin coat on all internal surfaces (except rare ones where it is not indicated) to prevent rust, particularly threaded surfaces. I also make sure the bearings have plenty. If a bit oozes out when I assemble, I just wipe it off. I'm really bummed out when I open something up and find rusted threads, etc. I'd rather find residual grease than rust.
GCN recommends to only fill 20-30% of the socket with grease. You want the bearings to roll not to slide.
That is a very interesting statement. I wonder if it is backed up with solid engineering evidence. There is so much hearsay in the bicycle maintenance world.
I can't see how a full fill can harm. There is no pressure on the grease. Any excess simply oozes out as you tighten things up. The lubricating action takes place between the balls and the races while they are under load. The pressures there are high. All but a molecular scale film is forced out as a matter of course. Whether there is a larger or smaller amount of grease outside the contact zone seems quite immaterial, unless there is so little the contact zone is not replenished. In the case of high speed bearings, I concede there may be things happening I do not understand, but no bearing on a bicycle operates at speeds a bearing designer would consider high.
Racers have some crazy nightmares about bearing lubrication, like whether their grease will cost them half a second in a time trial. If they want to run a thin film of light oil in their bearings, and have to maintain them between every race, that is their business. Real people want to maintain their bearings every few years at most and don't mind a tiny bit of extra work put into stirring grease, so long as that grease keeps their bearings from grinding to ruin.
@@elijahtinsley4825 Sheldon Brown says you can't have too much grease in your bearings. He is correct because any excess squeezes out as you tighten them down. So you can have excess, but never "too much". I trust SB's lifetime of practical experience over GCN's racing theories in this.
The GCN lads can lube with 4 drops of machine oil in each pedal to shave .00002 seconds off their time trials & relube every 10 meters if they want to, but the average rider gets no benefit from that; just a needless increase in maintenance.
For practical riders a fully packed bearing is usually best, with practice you get an idea of how much grease to put in to fill the race with minimal excess. If your bearings are "sliding" you're doing something wrong, but it's not "too much" grease at fault.
RJ's method is adequate, he uses marine grease which won't wash or melt out, so you can get by with less of it since it usually lasts longer; he's taking advantage of the long-wearing properties of the grease to economize on how much he's using on his many fixer-upper bikes.
I am also more generous with packing bearings even though I also use marine grease, but I only have a couple bikes to maintain, so I'm not really concerned with how much I'm using, I've been using the same big tub for I think the last 8 years & picked up another tub on sale recently.
Good job thanks for the demo, I bought last October a 1982 Bridgestone Roadman with chrome pedal , your video helps a lot😀👍
I love watching your videos, but this one was a bit sad for me as you fast fowarded the restoration of the chrome on the pedals ... Just kidding but I would have loved to watch the whole process
Dude you’re brilliant one of the best on RUclips however I think I’d rather buy a used functioning pair for 5 to 10 bucks
I just overhauled mine thanks to your great instruction video. Like new!
Thank you very much
Excellent your video But in case I do not have the washer or flat as I fix it.
If you can help me would be excellent.
I love fixing old things back to brand new again I get a lot of satisfaction out of your videos
You missed an important part. That terrific clean up job. There good as new.
Nice job, a set of vintage French made pedals is definitely worth the effort.
How did you shine the chrome so nicely!?!? I usually use aluminum foil to get ride of rust, but you got the whole pedal to look like new. I'd like to know what you used to make this old pedal look like new again. Thanks.
Mostly soaked them in Evaporust. ruclips.net/video/3THVf2xS33Y/видео.html
I did use a little bit of steelwool and a brass bristle brush also.
UGHHHH I was gonna ask WHY??? and then French threads.
it looks like a brand new pedal out of factory. WHAT A GREAT WORK.
Those cleaned up really well. I remember having pedals like those as a kid and I know I overhauled at least one pair of this style of pedal back in the day.
I have the same model and it's în need of an overhaul! So thanks a bunch!
It's so great that you make videos on maintaining old parts! Thanks again!
How did you clean the rust and dirt?
Just overhauled by lyotard pedals for my peugeot. I removed the entire reflector pieces on both pedals. They were in bad shape (and missing the actual reflector-y plastic pieces) They appear to be somewhat replaceable, so is it probably fine to use them without? Certainly looks pretty nice now that they're all shine up. Also, any ideas on a dust cap alternatives? I'm missing one and replacements on ebay are NOT cheap currently.
If you go without, dirt will get in there. No suggestions on alternatives.
3:59 -> 4:00 WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT! Show us the proccess dude!
Evapo-Rust: ruclips.net/video/3THVf2xS33Y/видео.html
And soap, water, and a scrub brush.
After evapo rust solution. Do you have to polish a lot to Make it all shiny ? Or just rainse off with water?
I remember back in autoshop class, teacher had us dip spark plug in battery acid for cleaning. What do I think using battery acid to clean heavy rust bicycle parts?
I just rinse it off. And Evapo Rust isn't acid. It works through chelation.
Hello. What kind of ball bearings do you use? It is a Shimano brand or much, much cheaper Chinese? For wheel hub I use Shimano but here I have dilemma!
I go on Amazon and buy a bag of 144 bearings.
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000AO5KOW/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0012LHL9O/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
I have seen you show a bag that the new ball bearings came in before... is that something u get from a local bike shop, amazon, or some other source? A few bags of bearings , spools of cable and housing, and plenty of cable ends and such, might be good stuff to buy ahead of time... any info/advice on sourcing such things would be most appreciated.
Thanks again for this awesome channel...
I will look you up on other socual media and send you a picture of what my son and I tore down and put back together today for a fun project.
I buy bearings on Amazon. I buy cables/housings on Amazon, or sometimes other sources I find via google. My facebook page is linked in the description.
Bought an old 80s Peugeot few years ago with rusty Lyotard pedals. Had I seen this before, it would help me save some 40 € for a new pair and more importandly keep the bike in original configuration. Great video! Gonna look for the old Lyotards now and try to restore them the same way. Thanks!
I have one of those screw-on dust caps on my old Peugeot, but one is missing. Are they also "French sized" or can you buy any regular dust caps for pedals and put them on?
+Mike No idea. They are probably relatively specific to those pedals.
Cool video. I am going service some old Nishiki pedals that I am not using. No reason, you just inspired me. What did you use to scrub the pedals? Wire brush?
+51actual Mostly soaked them in Evaporust. ruclips.net/video/3THVf2xS33Y/видео.html
I did use a little bit of steelwool and a brass bristle brush also.
Sorry, I see your answer to my question in other comments. Evapo-rust. Hmmm, never heard of it, but I'm going to have to get me some!
mi pedales es de los mismos vintage pero no tienen tapas ,tiene alguana idea como hacerlo
Fantastic, thank you! ♥
Lyotard Pedals were very popular in the 1980's. We would attach toes clips and straps to them for racing and touring. Those cut outs on the inside and outside of the pedal is where the leather straps were fed through. Those are keepers!
They must have turned those Lyotard pedals out by the million. I'm amazed they spruced up so well. I may a have a pair somewhere ... if I find them I'll give them the same treatment.
Have been working my way through all the bearings on my 1980s french touring bike, so far done both wheels, bottom bracket seems to spin nicely so leaving that alone for the moment. Gave the pedals a bit of a spin by hand(much faster than they would be in use) and they both spun really well, but one appeared a little noisy, so thought perhaps time to look at it So onto youtube and found your video(just needed confirmation on how to get off the endcap), thanks, mine are basically exactly as shown.
When I opened up the noisy one it basically looked brand new inside with the races, bearings and cups also looking brand new, it looked to be covered in only a thin layer of oil. Anyway, cleaned it all up(didnt replace the bearings) and repacked with lithium base grease(what I use to use on my car before they did away with grease nipples!). Adjusted the preload until I got any slack out, tightend down and it spun nicely and smoothly and without any noise. Yet when compared with the one I hadnt serviced it spun for about only half as long. Im guessing that's because it is probably light oil rather than grease that has been used?
Of course in riding the bike I couldnt feel any difference, what are your thoughts on going back to using a light oil rather than grease.
ps, I counted 9 bearings outer and 11 inner.
also waiting for someone to do a howto on how to pull apart the freewheel on a helicomatic, had taken mine off to do the rear axle bearing(also looked brand new) and took the advantage to clean the cogs up properly(mistake) and the small amount of degreaser that leaked into the free wheel mech got it all gritty and sticky, after soaking as much engine oil as possible through the gaps on both ends of the mech I got it to spin freely again, but would like to clean it up properly.
On my pedals, as I tighten the locknut, it tightens the cone further and the axle gets stuck. So I used a screwdriver to hold the cone in place as I tighten the locknut. Just a hint if someone else had the same issue.
Can you fix a Shimano clipless road pedals all you have to just replace them
That's an interesting product name hehe
When changing bearings in hubs, pedals etc.. Is there a need or real value to go to a better grade of bearings like grade 25 and above? Thanks for the great videos!
+sguenette65 Generally bike bearings are grade 25 I think. If you are maybe a pro racer, maybe better bearings might make a difference.
very helpful! the pedals on my 84 schwinn world sport are very similar to these! im sure the process for adjustment is the same! i love these old bikes, they really were built to last and to be serviced by the owners, not like many bikes built new today
That is a nice video about the pedal maters. I 've done the same on freeride type pedal for my mountainbike. So, thanks.
god bless
WOW!!!!!!😯😳🤔How did you clean up to get that brand new shining look??? It's awesome, well done job!!!!👍👍👍👍👍😃😃😃🤙🇵🇷
Evaporust, and soap, water and a scrub brush.
Very clear description of the process. The pedals come up well
I remember being hit in the chins by these evil S.O.B's make you bleed and they hurt like hell.
.一
You made those so good looking that I would hate to actually use them . Information and inspiration ,Thanks RJ
As always, RJ is spot on with his clarity and advice. Thanks!
Very nicely made pedals. Unfortunately there aren't many manufacturers that makes good looking flat pedals for "normal bikes" (IE. not MTB or road), left. I think I would have sprayed them with some clear lacquer to prevent them from rusting again.
+Runar Damnes the clear coat would peel off the first time the pedal takes a hit
Are French-style spindles still used on French bikes? I've got a 90s Peugeot I'm refurbing and the pedals could do with a overhaul. Thanks!
+Kevin P I doubt it. These came off of a early 70's bike. Probably not even the original pedals.
I like your magnetic pick up tool. Do you know the strength of the magnet - 1 lb etc, and can you tell me the model and make? Thanks
+Leonard Mazza It's a Craftsman Telescoping Magnetic Pick-Up Pocket Tool. About $6 from Sears.
In all actuality the magnet is extremely handy; however tech folks know that by using a magnetic tool on a bearing, whether the balls, rollers, cages or races, you are actually imparting some magnetism to the part, therefore permanently making it attract metal debris and speeding up the part's failure.
Hi Rj, love your videos. They come in really handy with a project I'm working on. I was wondering if you could help me out with something? I've got these quill pedals that I want to overhaul, but I don't know how to remove the dust caps without ruining them. They're campagnolo styles screw-on dustcaps with teeth.
+Alexander S. Not sure if they make a special tool for that. Something like a strap wrench might work: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00K92810A/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
These are the exact pedals that I have on my old Motobécane! Thanks for the video!!
Anyone have a word count for the words "here" and "there"?
RJ, I have a set of Vintage Lyotard CA45 pedals that have the threaded nut cap. The pedal cage cover the end of the pedal and cap so if you get the wrench on there is no way to turn it. Any ideas? Looks like these www.pedalpedlar.co.uk/collections/bicycle-pedals/products/leyotard-45ca-vintage-quill-pedals
+Ecadman87 Not sure why you can't turn it.
+RJ The Bike Guy My 22mm wrench won't fit very well. I did manage to get it to turn the cap a little like
I have removed the cap from a similar pedal (not Lytard) and used a 21mm wrench. I had to turn it in small increments and keep moving the wrench around, but got the cap off, no problem.
+RJ The Bike Guy Found a cresent type adjustable wrench made by Stanley that was small enough to fit yet goes up to 26mm. Followed your video and now have what looks like a new set of pedals. s1086.photobucket.com/user/GLRmikem/media/20160415_223807_zpsrbuzeqkt.jpg.html
What did you soak the pedals in to get them that clean?
Evaporust and he used steal wool
I am a big fan of your chanel, always learnt a great deal from it. Thank you again. (I just like to know how did you managed to turn the pretty rusty peddle to a brand new state?) Just like to know the method and the materials used on them. Regards
ruclips.net/video/3THVf2xS33Y/видео.html
I like your grease gun. Is it a cartridge type or bulk load or both? Do you remember where you got it?
+Leonard Mazza It's a Dualco. Not a cartridge. I got it at Amazon: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0025UGOVW/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
+RJ The Bike Guy
Thanks!
Great work, as usual. The bench top mini vice is brilliant, going to have to pick one up.
I had pedals like this. They fell off last year...
how to get baring steele ball size roller
Huh?
Hello, how to prevent rust appearing in further for that parts? I mean at the surface of pedals
Keep them clean, dry, and maybe a little bit of wax on them.
RJ The Bike Guy, Just a simple advice, thank ;)
How did you clean up these pedals?
+Luiz César Dias e Silva I soaked them in evapo-rust. Then light use of steel wool. Also scrubbing with nylon bristle brush.
they cleaned up so nice!
what grade steel wool do you use? love you videos by the way, very informative.
Is there any new pedals (clipless) with French threaded spindles or do I have to make new threads to my French bike cranks?
+Saqqu29 I am guessing someone makes them. You will have to do the research.
Hey R.J!, thanks for the vids!, im just wondering , have you ever had to try swapping the axles on these type of pedals?, i ride oldschool bmx , and find it hard to get half inch thread pedals
You would have to find exact matching axles. That would be the hard part.
Is marine grease high friction ?
i have the same pedals for my peugeot. i'm doing this asap.
very good !!! tu es le meilleur ! merci ! thanks ! mich in France
When replacing loose bearings on a cone and spindle , (pedal, front hub, whatever), if possible I try to get the spindle vertical. Next keep upward pressure while backing the cone off far enough the bearings have plenty of room to fall free. Get the spindle over a container before you let it drop down so the balls can fall free. Use the end of a plastic zip tie to chase any hanging balls out of the race, then hold the spindle in place while flipping it over to do the other side. To reassemble, drop the spindle in the hole while holding a finger over the other end to keep it from going fully into place. Fill the race with grease and balls, seat the cone, then hold it in place while you flip it over to do the other side.
Never had a problem doing it this way.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I've done more gunsmithing than bike work. Often that means dealing with a single steel ball, spring loaded, and no way to properly document the size of a replacement after the original has been launched into the twilight zone.
How do you clean the chrome body so nicely? Looks like new after clean.
Evaporust and he used steal wool
I have a similar pedals, but there is no "screw". If anyone knows how to overhaul it?
What do you mean no screw?
+RJ The Bike Guy
drive.google.com/file/d/0B4E63vfL0z8LNXBZSDNNdWhJTTg/view?usp=docslist_api
Hmmm. I haven't seen that before. I am guessing those are not adjustable or rebuildable.
Salgado Morientez hey ive seen the image of your pedal and your kind of pedal is a non rebuildable type.
it is made one way. what you can do is drill into the center of te spindle the one in the middle with lines scored on it so you can open the whole assembly.
then use a thread tap to make the end of the spindle threaded then its just a matter of placing a correct size cone and a one way washer and a locknut. and dont forget grind flat on the side of the thread so you can insert your one way washer in place.
Thank you for the video, second time I find one of your video really usefull (first time was to overhaul the old shimano sti brifters). Is there any tricks when the pedal body is wobbling?
+guillaume glad Not sure how it is wobbling unless the insides are not assembled or adjusted correctly.
What a difference with the evaporust!
Excellent. Thanks :) A question though: could it be you got the number of inside bearings wrong ? All my lyotards had 9 (4mm) on the outside and 11 (4mm) on the inside. At 5:35, it seems there is some space for one extra. Maybe one of the inside bearings ran away from you when opening it up :D ?
Got 11 as well instead of 10 :)
The number does seems to vary. Someone at Lyotard must have had a side hustle i suspect ;-]
Haha yepp, he's been stashing up those bearings all these years
I love your video learn so much. can you please tell us how did you clean the surface of that pedal?
See the description.
Wow, now they really look like new. Good job.
What is the brand name of that bench top vise? Who sells them? I need one to do what you did.
+Don Rad I got it at Harbor Freight. But you can find them lots of places. It's called a Drill Press Vise. I got it because it is low profile and works better for shooting videos.
Why didn't you show pedal polishing?
Because I didn't polish them.
Someone else?
@@Ruccy007 They were not polished!!! I soaked them in Evapo Rust and cleaned them with a scrub brush and soap and water.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Finally, whatever intervention that shone that way, thank you.
very good, r j !
i live on the philippines i could not find bike parts can you give a website where to buy them?
+Cubing Nerd I bought this bike locally. But websites where I buy parts. eBay.com and Amazon.com.
+RJ The Bike Guy ok thanks
+RJ The Bike Guy i also have a bent crankarm any videos on that?
+Cubing Nerd If it's steel, you can try to straighten it. If it's aluminum, replace it.
+RJ The Bike Guy its hard plastic could i try to mallet it?
watching you from France! :)
how dix you washed those pedals please? continue jour videos
did*
your*
+Joseph Joseph I soaked them in Evaporust and then used a little steel wool lightly and soap and water and a scrub brush.
Sick! They look so nice
I remember my dad used to have similar (or maybe those?) pedals on his road single speed. When I was 9 or 10 I used to sneak into garage and take it out for a spin, just to show off in front of my friends. Bike was so huge, I had to sit on the frame. But the worst part was that once I was barefoot, and those REALLY dug into soles of my feet! When I saw the video, all the memories came back to me :)
how did you get those so clean and looking that good?
+Jacob Holm Evaporust, steel wool, and scrubbing with water and dish soap.
oh cool I never heard of such a thing I'll have to buy some
Check this out: ruclips.net/video/3THVf2xS33Y/видео.html
+RJ The Bike Guy I don't use steel wool on chrome as it can scratch it. Sctochbrite or stainless pot scourers are good though!
Hey RJ, where can I find a vise like this?
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000056NPL/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
Do you use/recommend envaporust for Chrome moly frames? I have an old bmx i am restoring and that seems safer than OA. Any advice?
Sure. It works great!
Can i use a 5 gallon bucket of evaporust and do half the frame in then flip it after 24 hours (to do the other half) or do i have to submerge it all at once in a Rubbermaid tub, etc??? Love your channel! Thanks so much!
@@st4ck4tt4ck Buy one gallon. Soak paper towels in evaporust and wrap them around frame. Then wrap those in plastic wrap to keep them wet.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I wanted to give an update to where I am at so far. I have some finish spots to focus on but the change already is remarkable. I haven't done any polishing yet just scrub/rinse. Check it out as I thought you would appreciate it after giving me advice. Thanks again!
www.dropbox.com/sh/cksgd9n09rfokas/AADHjMb6k-3Ak7sFE5u1EUXJa?dl=0
I didn't catch how you got the rust off.
I soaked them in Evaporust, and also some light scrubbing. www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00M0TLQ66/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
I have the same ones, they fit on the new crank?
They should. Pedal threads are relatively standard. 9/16". (though BMX bikes have 1/2" I think).
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thank you !
What did you clean?
Everything.
sorry, What did you use for cleaning?
Soap, water, degreaser, scrub brush, mineral spirits, evaporust.
lol he said squirt