UPDATE: Went through this entire process just as described above and everything went great. The one thing I'll note is that my motorcycle tech brother stopped by while I was working on the car and he diagnosed the problem to a stuck caliper pin. I followed the directions in the video but noticed that when I put the offending brake back together the pin seemed to not ride freely. I took it apart and really got in there with brake cleaner and a pipe cleaner to clear out buildup, then made extra sure those rubber boots were on the way they're supposed to be. I'm wondering if the cause of all these issues is that the boots can so easily be put on incorrectly, both upside down and one side for the other. For anyone tackling this project, I'd suggest spending some extra time on this part. Thanks again for the great video!
GREAT video! Really appreciate the guidance on lift points (front & rear) as well as the level of detail on all the steps. Needing only to replace the front pads this time (did rotors & pads all around 50K miles ago), I elected to do one & then the next as portrayed in this video, rather than first getting the vehicle up on stands all around, finding this approach surprisingly more productive! One key point I'd mention, however, is that it will prove helpful to turn the wheel being serviced (hard left for driver's side & hard right for passenger side) prior to jacking so as to afford optimal access to the caliper mounting hardware. Hope this helps👍
I'm about to do my wife's 2019 Sorento and I really appreciate the information, specifically the specifications for the sizes and torque of each bolt, super helpful! Thanks for the great video.
Great Instructional Video! I have done dozens of break jobs for myself and others over the years, but I have never done a brake job on a Kia. However, it looks pretty straight-forward for a brake job, just like most vehicles. My daughter has a 2017 Kia Sorento LX AWD (with 85,000 miles) that needs new brakes. The local dealership wants around $1,500 for new pads and rotors on all 4 wheels (no thanks!). Guess what I will be doing next weekend?...lol The (Duralast Gold) brake parts are around $500 at Autozone for new front and rear break pads and 4 new rotors. I was going to go with that until I saw the brake kit you used from Amazon. How is the brake noise with that kit? I hear a lot of complaints from people who use slotted and drilled rotors on the street, as the constant "clicking" sound can be very annoying. Do you have any noise issues at all with that brake kit? It seems like a really nice and complete kit, other than the brake pad retaining clips being the wrong size. Also, when compressing the brake caliper piston, I usually crack open the bleeder screw on the caliper instead of forcing the break fluid back into the master cylinder. This is how I was taught by my grandfather, who was a master mechanic, over 40 years ago. It works great. Thanks for the great instruction on a Kia brake job. I definitely feel more comfortable tackling the brakes on my daughter's Kia now. 😊
Thank you. This was just a customers car that I did, but I do have these same pads and rotors on my f150 and I love them. They do make a little noise when braking but barely noticeable. Plus the stopping power is improved and these rotors will never rust. The customer I did this for went with the drilled and slotted rotors because these Kia’s are known for rotor warpage with the basic rotors.
Had the exact same conversation with my local shop today for my 2016 sorento. Figured I could buy any tools I need and "save" money now and the future!
Great video. Couple little tips. Pop the cap on the reservoir and the piston will compress easier. After all pads are replaced top off the brake fluid. You can check pad wear by looking at your reservoir level. The level will lower as pads wear because the piston is out farther.
Did this car have a manually activated parking brake on an electronic parking brake (EPB). My 2016 SXL Sorento has EPB and I just accidentally discovered that there is an additional procedure that has to be done to unlock EPBs before replacing the rear brake pads. From what I can read it is an additional step than just making sure the parking brake is not engaged.
I made the same mistake with de bolts on the caliper. They are 2 Disc Brake Caliper Guide Pin (Yellow and White). On the video at 3:29 , on the TOP goes the Yellow; and the bottom is the Yellow One. Then he made a mistake at the minutre 12:27 (Yellow Bottom - White TOP)
I also wanted to say Thank You for your great class. Love the detail and camera shots. APPLAUSE !!!!!!!! Buying you a Beer or Water just in case. Thank you again.
Question, I haven't pulled the tire off to check the rotors yet but in your experience with the Sorento would you guess that shaking under heavy brake load would likely be pads or rotors or both? 2019 with 32k+ bought new. Rotors look fine from a distance but haven't had time to really dig into it yet.
You can’t really tell rotors are warped by just looking at them. Most likely the rotors are warped though and pads will need to be replaced with new rotors this has been a major issue for awhile now on these Sorentos that’s why this customer opted for the drilled and slotted rotors to help cool the rotors so they don’t warp as easy. So far no issues.
No need to bleed the brakes unless you disconnect a line or something and yes it’s safe to push the old fluid back in that’s, what it does every time you let off the brake pedal when driving. The tool is called a brake piston compressor you can get them cheap off amazon like this one www.amazon.com/dp/B09GMHH5R5/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_H119V613VAFMMCV6ERV9?linkCode=ml2&tag=bluecollargar-20
@@tristen4661 that’s for if you need to adjust the parking brake shoes without having to take the rotor and everything off plus it keep dirt and moisture out of that area as well.
Exact same problem. Brakes done at a shop in town, ten months later wobbling like crazy and a ridiculous amount of break dust. Wonder what the brand the shop brakes were and if there's just a garbage product on the market that these guys are using. Or if perhaps they're not breaking in the rotors and just swapping things out and moving on before finishing the job properly. Was going to take it back in to the guy but after seeing this I think I'll just do it myself so I can make sure it's done right.
Cheaper brake pads create more dust. Ceramic pads give little to no dust, best heat fade resistance, but require more pedal effort to gain the same stopping power. Metallic pads give a fair amount of dust, fair heat fade resistance, and moderate pedal effort for good stopping power. I don't believe anyone offers "Organic" or non-metallic non-ceramic pads anymore as they are ANCIENT technology, give HEAPS of dust, don't take heat well, grab hard and fast under light pedal effort, and don't last long. Yes, there are others but those are the standard options over the past 40 years.
Cheaper Rotors are commonly made using inferior metal alloys which don't absorb and dissipate heat as well as better alloys even when constructed to the same specs in every other aspect. You truly are getting what you pay for with brakes quite often.
This is how you make a diy video people. No lame heavy metal backgorund music, steady camera, attention to detail....well done.
Amen
Agreed! I am so thankful for this video! Will save me some money and learn a great skill!
Well said.
Agree! Thanks for the vid, perfect.
Thank you so much brother. I just got my front brakes done. Because of your help.
God bless you
UPDATE: Went through this entire process just as described above and everything went great. The one thing I'll note is that my motorcycle tech brother stopped by while I was working on the car and he diagnosed the problem to a stuck caliper pin. I followed the directions in the video but noticed that when I put the offending brake back together the pin seemed to not ride freely. I took it apart and really got in there with brake cleaner and a pipe cleaner to clear out buildup, then made extra sure those rubber boots were on the way they're supposed to be. I'm wondering if the cause of all these issues is that the boots can so easily be put on incorrectly, both upside down and one side for the other. For anyone tackling this project, I'd suggest spending some extra time on this part. Thanks again for the great video!
WOW! Thank you for teaching... i was totally ignorant to break pad break in!!!
GREAT video! Really appreciate the guidance on lift points (front & rear) as well as the level of detail on all the steps. Needing only to replace the front pads this time (did rotors & pads all around 50K miles ago), I elected to do one & then the next as portrayed in this video, rather than first getting the vehicle up on stands all around, finding this approach surprisingly more productive! One key point I'd mention, however, is that it will prove helpful to turn the wheel being serviced (hard left for driver's side & hard right for passenger side) prior to jacking so as to afford optimal access to the caliper mounting hardware. Hope this helps👍
Good tip on turning the wheels. I always do one side at a time so if I can't figure out how something goes back on I can look at the other side 😅
We used your video to do our vehicle. Great step by step and tips! Thank you!
Good idea to clean that rust from the hub so the new rotors will seat correctly. Also lube the hub.
Bought a different kit but the video was spot on. Excellent work!
I'm about to do my wife's 2019 Sorento and I really appreciate the information, specifically the specifications for the sizes and torque of each bolt, super helpful! Thanks for the great video.
Great Instructional Video! I have done dozens of break jobs for myself and others over the years, but I have never done a brake job on a Kia. However, it looks pretty straight-forward for a brake job, just like most vehicles. My daughter has a 2017 Kia Sorento LX AWD (with 85,000 miles) that needs new brakes. The local dealership wants around $1,500 for new pads and rotors on all 4 wheels (no thanks!). Guess what I will be doing next weekend?...lol
The (Duralast Gold) brake parts are around $500 at Autozone for new front and rear break pads and 4 new rotors. I was going to go with that until I saw the brake kit you used from Amazon. How is the brake noise with that kit? I hear a lot of complaints from people who use slotted and drilled rotors on the street, as the constant "clicking" sound can be very annoying. Do you have any noise issues at all with that brake kit? It seems like a really nice and complete kit, other than the brake pad retaining clips being the wrong size.
Also, when compressing the brake caliper piston, I usually crack open the bleeder screw on the caliper instead of forcing the break fluid back into the master cylinder. This is how I was taught by my grandfather, who was a master mechanic, over 40 years ago. It works great.
Thanks for the great instruction on a Kia brake job. I definitely feel more comfortable tackling the brakes on my daughter's Kia now. 😊
Thank you. This was just a customers car that I did, but I do have these same pads and rotors on my f150 and I love them. They do make a little noise when braking but barely noticeable. Plus the stopping power is improved and these rotors will never rust. The customer I did this for went with the drilled and slotted rotors because these Kia’s are known for rotor warpage with the basic rotors.
Had the exact same conversation with my local shop today for my 2016 sorento. Figured I could buy any tools I need and "save" money now and the future!
Great video. Couple little tips. Pop the cap on the reservoir and the piston will compress easier. After all pads are replaced top off the brake fluid. You can check pad wear by looking at your reservoir level. The level will lower as pads wear because the piston is out farther.
Did this car have a manually activated parking brake on an electronic parking brake (EPB). My 2016 SXL Sorento has EPB and I just accidentally discovered that there is an additional procedure that has to be done to unlock EPBs before replacing the rear brake pads. From what I can read it is an additional step than just making sure the parking brake is not engaged.
This one had a manual
What was the procedure? Can you help
Awesome. 👍
I made the same mistake with de bolts on the caliper. They are 2 Disc Brake Caliper Guide Pin (Yellow and White). On the video at 3:29 , on the TOP goes the Yellow; and the bottom is the Yellow One. Then he made a mistake at the minutre 12:27 (Yellow Bottom - White TOP)
What if the caliber is stubborn and won’t move?.
Are you saying the caliper won’t come off the pads and bracket? Or the pistons won’t push back into the caliper?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE won’t push back in
Hello, please send me the link where you bought the parts.
amzn.to/3K8luqX
Thank you very much for the link.
I also wanted to say Thank You for your great class. Love the detail and camera shots. APPLAUSE !!!!!!!! Buying you a Beer or Water just in case. Thank you again.
Informative video... Great step by step process.
Thank for your video, It was very helpfull I'ts made my daughter smile, take care.
Great video 👍🏼 thanks for posting for us novice mechanics
🔥 video
Your video was the mose precise one on here, thanks for the help
This might be the best video showing brake replacement!! Thanks very much for that!
Thanks for a great guide and including torque values!
Question, I haven't pulled the tire off to check the rotors yet but in your experience with the Sorento would you guess that shaking under heavy brake load would likely be pads or rotors or both? 2019 with 32k+ bought new. Rotors look fine from a distance but haven't had time to really dig into it yet.
You can’t really tell rotors are warped by just looking at them. Most likely the rotors are warped though and pads will need to be replaced with new rotors this has been a major issue for awhile now on these Sorentos that’s why this customer opted for the drilled and slotted rotors to help cool the rotors so they don’t warp as easy. So far no issues.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Cool. Thanks
My son and I changed brakes for the first time with this video. Good stuff.
Great video, planning to do this with my son today.
Great video - thanks for putting that together
No need to bleed brakes? Is it safe to push the old fluid back in? What is the tool called you used to push the piston back in? Thanks for the video👍
No need to bleed the brakes unless you disconnect a line or something and yes it’s safe to push the old fluid back in that’s, what it does every time you let off the brake pedal when driving. The tool is called a brake piston compressor you can get them cheap off amazon like this one www.amazon.com/dp/B09GMHH5R5/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_H119V613VAFMMCV6ERV9?linkCode=ml2&tag=bluecollargar-20
The link to purchase the rotors and pads says its unavailable do you have another link to purchase?
I just clicked on the link and it worked for me. It’s showing there are 9 left in stock. May just want to try it again.
Great tutorial. Thank you.
Well Done. THANK YOU
Hallo. Can you help me please, with the link from where you bought the pices for the car. I saw your material. Thank you very much
Very nice video. Will do mine very soon. Your video will be a good reference!
i hate this rotor is weird feeling when you brake
Best video ever DIY 🔥🔥🔥
Great job, very thorough!
Awesome 🛸
Damn good video!
Remember kids, always spray your rotor with some brakleen to get off the oil layer they put on to prevent rusting during storage/shipping.
What's the purpose of that rubber plug?
Are you talking about the one on the caliper?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE the one piece coming off of back passenger rotator plate
@@tristen4661 that’s for if you need to adjust the parking brake shoes without having to take the rotor and everything off plus it keep dirt and moisture out of that area as well.
Excellent 👍🏽👍🏽
Excellent
Why does one pin has a little rubber sleeve ?
Supposed to help with vibration and noise.
Exact same problem. Brakes done at a shop in town, ten months later wobbling like crazy and a ridiculous amount of break dust. Wonder what the brand the shop brakes were and if there's just a garbage product on the market that these guys are using. Or if perhaps they're not breaking in the rotors and just swapping things out and moving on before finishing the job properly. Was going to take it back in to the guy but after seeing this I think I'll just do it myself so I can make sure it's done right.
Cheaper brake pads create more dust.
Ceramic pads give little to no dust, best heat fade resistance, but require more pedal effort to gain the same stopping power.
Metallic pads give a fair amount of dust, fair heat fade resistance, and moderate pedal effort for good stopping power.
I don't believe anyone offers "Organic" or non-metallic non-ceramic pads anymore as they are ANCIENT technology, give HEAPS of dust, don't take heat well, grab hard and fast under light pedal effort, and don't last long.
Yes, there are others but those are the standard options over the past 40 years.
Cheaper Rotors are commonly made using inferior metal alloys which don't absorb and dissipate heat as well as better alloys even when constructed to the same specs in every other aspect.
You truly are getting what you pay for with brakes quite often.
I don't remember rotors warping so often as a kid - not sure if it's because cars are heavier and the parts are just cheap chineseium?
Hey can you tell me what Ratchet set to buy for the bolts
Hey man does this work with the LX AWD?
Yes it will be the same.
I can't find any 2021 videos are they the same?
I would assume so because Chrysler has kept this same body style and chassis through 2023.