Raybestos Best Brake Job: Cleaning Caliper Bracket/Installing Pads
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
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Doing the best brake job possible takes time and effort. You can't take shortcuts and you must follow the proper procedures. In this series, The Best in Brakes will teach you how to perform the best disc brake job. Our technical service experts will teach you how to inspect your brakes and the steps you must take to do a quality brake job. In part six of this series, we show you what a properly cleaned caliper looks like and how to install brake pads.
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Cleaning Caliper Brackets:
Caliper brackets, especially in the Rust Belt, accumulate a lot of rust in the areas under the abutment clips. If too much rust is allowed to build up in these areas, it can affect the ability of the brake pads to slide freely within the caliper bracket. This causes problems such as brake noise, brake pull and premature/uneven pad wear.
There are two methods used to clean the areas underneath the caliper brackets.
1.) Sandblasting Cabinet: Use the sandblasting cabinet to blast the rust away on the areas underneath the abutment clips.
2.) Wire Brush and File: If you don't have a sandblasting cabinet, a wire brush and file will do the job as well. Use the wire brush first to clean the area under the abutment clips. Go over the area again with a file to smooth out any scaled rust.
Installing Brake Pads:
1.) Install new abutment clips onto the caliper brackets.
2.) Apply brake lubricant to the abutment clips where it contacts the brake pads
3.) Apply brake lubricant to the edges of the brake pads that make contact with the brake hardware.
4.) Test fit the brake pads and make sure the move freely in the caliper bracket.
5.) Install caliper bracket
6.) Slide pads into place within the caliper bracket. Make sure that you install the inboard and outboard pads correctly. Depending on the application, these pads may not be identical.
Grease on the brake pad inner from fingers
Pro tip, don't touch the friction side of the brake pad. Especially not with .5g of grease on your fingers. Smh
You can always take off the end of the pad so it will fit.
I bought KLEEN-FLOW Eze Slide Synthetic brake lube (silicone based). Will use it on the caliper slider pins and abuttment clips as you showed. Should I put some lube on the brake pad backing plates ? Which kind ? For the record, my car is a 2008 Impreza 2.5i Sport (with 4 disc brakes, dual piston calipers in the front and single piston in the rear).
On my 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan, I've replace the front pads four time/every year since I bought the car. Averaging about 20,000 miles on a set of pads.
I Do about 100 days of skiing every winter at the local mountain. Each trip involves about 3,000 vertical feet over the course of six miles. I put the car into a lower gear to reduce brake wear. Still, the brakes get hot and sometimes smoke, shimmy & shake. So that's part of it.
I've struggled in the last couple of brake jobs with getting the Raybestos pads to fit into the included Raybestos abutment clips. I think I do an adequate job of cleaning/prepping the bracket. So, I don't think the bracket is closing up the volume of the abutment clip. Should I have sanded or ground the ears of the pad for a better fit?
I've been reading, that after releasing the brakes, that the pad should move away from the disk to no contact. Could a tight pad abutment clip resist this?
I regularly service customers brakes at 25-30k miles on the 08-10 grand caravans and town and country vans in my state of Michigan. One of the hardest vehicles I’ve ever seen on brakes.
im sorry, i didnt catch the name of those clips????
Pad retainers
ABUTMENT CLIPS
😆
Hardware clips