Brake Job Tip - Cleaning Brake Caliper Brackets
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
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A car's brake system is made up of several brake parts that come together for one important job - stopping the vehicle. Spending some time cleaning the brake caliper brackets when doing a complete brake job can pay big dividends down the road.
In this video, Master Technician Rick Kearns of Garage Gurus shows how to clean the brake caliper bracket to prevent brake problems like premature wear of the brake pads and squealing or growling noises. Count on Garage Gurus to help you get your vehicle repair done right.
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Excellent vid, a lot of good info in a short amount of time 👍🏽
Leave the caliper pins in place when cleaning and especially wire brushing the bracket. Use brake cleaner to flush away redisue and only then, remove the caliper pins. This avoids getting debris inside the pin bores where it can become trapped in lubricant. Rinsing off the bracket also removed gummy buildup around the boots, makingng them eacsier to remove.
It's better to use a tube brush on a drill down in the the caliper pin hole and rinse with brake cleaner then blow it all off with a compressor
I would love to know what you’d use to rinse it off with. Brake cleaner spray? If so would that damage the rubber boots?
I remove the rubber dust boots, cleaning the convolutes with Dawn soap and a nylon tube brush. Then I clean the slide-pin bores with kerosene and a brass wire bore brush, the remaining with a brass wire brush, before cleaning the entire apparatus ultrasonically. Then I immediately remove all traces of water from the slide-pin bores and rubber dust boots with isopropyl alcohol 99%. Finally, I grease the slide-pins and bores with Permatex Silicone Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (orange color) along with the bracket-side of the abutment clips to inhibit rusting. (I do not grease the brake pad side of the abutment clips.) Then I spray the outside of the rubber dust boots with DuPont Silicone Surface Safe Lubricant.
@@armchairtin-kicker503whoa I hope this is cuz it’s a Ferrari . Holy shi*
Straight to the point,thank you.
Good video however the first slide pin you put in was sticking you can see it in the video that is exactly my problem right now even after changing the boots and pins want to make sure it doesn’t stay stuck in at any point or wheel cause brakes to grab and ruin your tires which is what happened to me.
My only problem with marking the guide-pins, ensuring they go back as found, is it assumes the last tech put them back correctly. Without knowing the technical reason for the placement of the guide-pin bushings, one is just guessing. That stated, I have heard they always go on the trailing-end, opposite of wear-indicator placement to prevent rattling.
Great tips thanks!
You guys are awesome well explained tutorials please keep up the good work
My issue is cleaning inside the burrow holes for the pins. Symptom is a sluggish pin with resistance that doesn't glide freely. I wiped out and sanded the inside with no improvement. Glide pin is fine. Any suggestions?
Go at it with brake cleaner and a bore brush. Good idea even if they're not sticking, I don't like how he just inserted a rag.
A sandblasting booth would be nice
excellent advice,thank you!!
so i lost track of what guide pin has a bushing. how do i figure out which one they go back in? they fit in both ones... any tips?
You would have to mark each item prior to disassembly. For correct installation and service procedures one would have to research O.E. service manual or equivalent research material for proper assembly.
Two things, designwise: 1st, the bushing goes on the pin which has a slot for it. 2nd, that pin with the bushing goes at the hole which is at the "Bottom" when the bracket is installed in the knuckle. It is hard to tell when you have not marked them or if the previous repair guy interchanged them and I see this a lot as people mix both brackets in one cleaning session. One thing I do to know which one goes on the driver side is to tie something on it such as a twist tie from cords (or xmas decor ties will do). It always helps. The bushing at the bottom supports and maintains the alignment of the pins in the guide hole. If it is at the top, due to gravity, the sliding motion is not as efficient as it creates more play and also will wear out the bushing much prematurely due to pendulum-like motion (swing effect). Unless you get a car fresh from factory with the bushing on the top pin, put it the bottom if they are interchangeable or check if you have interchanged the brackets (as the previous repair guy may have put a left bracket on the right and vise versa instead even though he marked them such as in this video). Unfortunately, the brackets too have different part numbers but are identical most of the time. This is an excellent video, though not everyone has paint markers or by the time you use them, they are dry. I hope this helps.
@@johnmariano47 I believe you are the first one who has provided a technical explanation of why the slide-pin, with the bushing, goes at the bottom of the bracket. I have always despised the "put it back like you found it" explanation because it assumes the last mechanic did it correctly--unless it was the assembly line which has QAQC. When one reads the saga of British Airways Flight 5390, one really appreciates the fallacy in the "put it back like you found it" explanation.
@@armchairtin-kicker503 Glad it helped. Engineers design parts based on specific functions and mechanics of motion, load etc. You're right that only if the car came out fresh from the manufacturing plant that saying "put it back like it was" may apply in the case of having brought a brand new car and one has no other reference. In the manufacturing plant are detailed pages of assembly manuals of which technicians sometimes miss such important minor differences that sometimes only during process audits or when a new tech getting trained questions why the previous tech never bothered to follow it or sometimes it gets caught during a campaign such as in this case an issue with brakes or reported by dealership if they come across a lot of it. (Minor, because these parts can easily be interchanged without noticable effect in assembly.) Cheers!
@@johnmariano47 I had a thirty-six year career in information technology, twenty-nine as a commercial system software developer. You would be shocked at how often mistakes are propagated through a software package because developers simply copy-and-paste what the last fellow did, assuming the work was correct. I have always been fascinated with aviation because mistakes, all too often, have life and death consequences, the commercial sector of the industry imposing a relentless negative-feedback loop in order to mitigate errors. Recently, I did a front brake job on my 2008 Lexus GS 350, a vehicle which has Brembo-style front calipers. Since the last time it was serviced, the shim design had change, Toyota going from single to double shims (part no. 04945-30350), the pair of shims being different. Toyota, more specifically the Toyota Production System, uses an approach that I appropriated as developer decades ago, an approach called poka-yoke (mistake proofing). Although there might seem two different orientation one could place the shims, there is only one, the configuration which allows the holes to line up. Despite the numerous videos posted on the subject of GS and IS front brake jobs, only one focused on double-shim orientation and lubricating; quite astounding.
That's not the same bracxket you started with....lol
This does not apply in the rust belt.
you skipped over alot.
I don't think you wanna brush or file the bracket with the rubber still on 😂🤣😂🤣😂 j.s.
I'm still trying to perfect my techniques for cleaning heavily rust scaled brackets...trying to find the happy medium, that works, but isn't so aggressive it leaves grooves. Hand filing is the only safe enough method for me, but it takes way way too much time.
I'm STRICTLY "Out of the Trunk" mobile... No air! (yet)
Get a drill and some gun barrel cleaning bits. Make sure not to put a ton of pressure on it but almost no pressure and just let it glide over the rust and it knocks it right off with no damage I use this set up everyday.