Sir, I did not catch your name . David from Alabama 2022 here. Thank you so much for this Video. Wifes car was doing this and more. Changed the thermostat , first no heat. Followed your video to the letter, other than I put some flush in first. Had to flush for a while changing from top to bottom then more flush. Put it all back cranked and drove around, Heater was like brand new. Wife was so happy. About $50.00 for everything. Again THANKS SO MUCH.
Hi David. Thank you for this great feedback. I really do appreciate it. Fantastic news to hear that your wifes car has heater is working again, and a lot of money saved too! Thank you for watching!
This video was very helpful. My heater was blowing cold air. After watching this video I successfully flushed my heater core and is now blowing hot air. Thanks!
Cost $22. Just did this on my '07 Grand Prix. Worked excellent. Went from no heat to so much heat you can't hold your hand in front of the vents for more than few seconds. It's HOT now. I bought 20ft clear tubing, nylon 5/8's fittings, 3/4 for the garden hose, and Preston flush. The Prestone is clear so I added some food coloring to make it blue. I let it sit in the core for about 1/2 hour. Honestly most of the chunks came out with the water flushing. Thanks for the video.
I've used compressed air for years to do this and looked it up mainly to find where the heater core hoses were as I had to do this on my childs mom's car, and it wasn't in front of me yet. Compressed air is messy, and very risky that you can punch a hole through the thin copper of the heater core, and seeing this, I decided to try it this way. $20 at a local hardware store and I had it done in 10 minutes. No flush solution just plain water. The core was completely plugged and after it was night and day difference. Thank you for this video, you were very helpful man and I appreciate it.
No problem at all. I am truly happy to hear that the video was very helpful. Glad to see both your child and the mom can enjoy a warm car for the winter. Thanks for watching...much appreciated!
This video helped me go from zero heat on my 2005 pontiac grand am, to blasting heat. Thank you so much. Lessons learned: 1. If your driveway is slanted up, back in instead of pull in. When I pulled the hose from the engine block (on grand am), the coolant leaked EVERYWHERE because of the slant on the hill. 2. The hose clamps by GM are a PITA without the right tool to move them. I ended up throwing one about a 100 feet after I finally got it off, and I put a replacement hose clamp on (2 for $3 at autozone) that simply screws tight.
Awesome! Perfect timing to get your heat back. Glad the video was very helpful. Also, thanks for those helpful tips. Always like tips like that...helps future viewers and you can save someone a lot of hassle. Thanks! PS. Those clamps are a giant PITA! Always a damn headache! I feel your pain.
I wanted to let you know how much your video was to me. My impala was only blowing warm are. I used your information and was able to flush out the core, prime the core with good coolant, and get my car blowing HOT air now. It was clogged with dex cool sludge.Thank you for your video.
That's is awesome news! I am really happy to hear how this video helped and you now have some nice hot air blowing. Such a common problem on these cars (and indeed, many Dexcool cars). Thanks for taking the time to comment...appreciate it
Thanks for this video! Don't know much about cars but my 02 Grand Am seems to be running pretty hot (not overheating though) and has low coolant constantly. Also have no heat, just blows cold air. Coworker told me to try this, and i was nervous about it but your video was super thorough and informative and has me confident that I can do this myself! If it doesn't fix every issue it definitely won't hurt at least!
That;s awesome. This is exactly why i make these videos. Thanks for the great feedback. It does sound like you have a couple of different issues going on there. Hopefully this helps. Let me know how it goes!
I've had them plugged with that sludge and used muratic acid to flush out the whole system worked great the radiator and heater core was like new flow was perfect after i flushed it out
Nice. Muriatic Acid sounds like it would be aggressive, but if it worked, all the better. Glad to hear that the whole coolant system is lie new! Awesome stuff!
I bought my 2007 Grand Prix used and noticed my heater wasn't getting hot so I flushed the radiator and installed a new thermostat, still no heat. The coolant looked muddy coming out so I figured the heater core was clogged and it was DEFINITELY clogged. I back flushed it with my garden hose and now it blows hot. The dexcool coolant is nasty stuff if it isn't changed regularly. Oh yeah I used the heater hoses from the motor end to flush the core. I left the hoses attached to the heater core fittings as not to disturb them or crack the outlet/inlet fittings.
Awesome! Glad to hear the flush worked out. I agree, Dexcool is toxic to the car is not handled correctly. I have pulled apart quite a few cooling systems with Dexcool and it is hard like clay. Terrible stuff in the early days! Thanks for leaving the feedback!
Nice video, very informative. I should've done this months ago when Fall started to set in, now I'm going to have to wait until probably late Spring when everything thaws out again to do it myself.
Thanks for the great comment. Sucks that you cant do it now, as now is the time to do it. Who knows? Maybe you will get a mild-weather day. Do it then, if you can. Otherwise, the video will be here in the spring when you need it :)
the grand prix has a coolant bleeder screw ....... won't be properly bled until u use it. it's located ontop of thermostat housing. u have to set idle at 2000 rpm and crack that screw to get all air out of system
This is very true...especially true for a full flush. It's a very good point and worth noting for sure. The purpose of this flush is to just clear out the heater core though. The dexcool breaks down and creates sludge/clay inside the core. I can tell you for sure that when a full flush is done, even from the dealer, is the core is clogged, it will not always flush it out, especially if it was the first flush after many years. And furthermore, air gets trapped in the heater core when it's in this gummed up state, even with a full flush. This is definitely NOT to replace a full flush, but just a way to clear the heater core. Basically, for anyone who is flushing their own systems, this would be a good first step, before completing a full flush. I will also say if done properly, you wont need to bleed the system afterwards.
Just flushed my core and it work like a charm. I now have my heat back!! Thanks for the video bro! You saved me $350 bucks. A mechanic told me I needed a new heater core he didnt even suggest a flush out.
Awesome! Glad to hear the video helped and saved some serious cash. It is funny how a simple flush is overlooked. Some even say it doesnt make sense to do it. But it makes such a huge difference. Thanks again for watching!
I may try this out on a Chevy Cavalier that I have. The heater does work good but if you hold on to the hose coming from the heater core you feel there isn't a lot of flow going to the thermostat. I made the mistake of mixing the green coolant and Dexcool. After a few months my car began to run hotter about 20 degrees more then the midpoint of 195. I had the car for about 9 months now and its always ran at 195 or below before this issue happened.
Give it a try for sure. Would be a good time to flush your coolant too and put in the right one. Mixing the two can also sludge up the channels a bit, so wouldnt hurt. If you flush the core and you see a lot of sludge come out, definitely flush your whole system too. Either way, since you are dumping some coolant anyways, might as well dump the old mixed coolant and put fresh Dex in. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
OK when you were putting the coolant back in, I could not see which one was the inner when you was adding the coolant so I got a little lost. Could you send me a video one show me how to add the coolant in which holes
@@LittleMissPrincess-1219 unfortunately I won't be able to make a video on filling it at this time, but I can tell you I filled up the core by pouring the coolant down the tube that led down to the upper (higher) hose as seen on the firewall. Once you see the coolant flows through the lower hose, the core is (mostly) full. Just need to burp the system afterwards. Hope this helps
That's awesome news, glad to hear. Now your fiance can get some heat again, especially this time of the year! Thanks for watching and leaving feedback too!
I would just say to run it through in both directions anyways. But if you want to do it in coolant flow direction, the inlet hose is the one the sits lower right (passenger) side on the firewall.
I'm so frustrated I clearly see how an what u connected that first hose to. But I dont know what and where u connected that second hose, the one where your actually feeding the water thru.
Sorry, I should have showed hooking up the other hose too. If you go to 11:50, you will see those hose I am disconnecting on the left. If you look just to the right, there is another hose there. That is the other hose I hooked up to. It has the same clamp-style hose fitting. You can also see it top-down at around 12:08, it is to the right of the one I am working on. Hope this helps
So basically you're just hooking a hose to each house on one side. The inlet and the outlet. And you totally leave the ones on the driver's side alone?
@@michaelplew3832 The car's thermostat was going up while driving and the heater was not putting out heat. Doing the trick in the video pushed out a bunch of corroded gunk from the heater core before I flushed the rest of the cooling system. It's in working order now!
gunk engine cleaner is your friend. Looks like your engine would benefit! Nice video. I did not do this when i changed my hoses/belts/heater helper hoses and flushed the system. I bet mine looks good too, but I should look to flush this just to be sure. To add: if you wanted you could add a T with shutoff and cap on the end without hoses to make this even easier to clean up when disconnecting (more expensive though). Low water pressure is key here, don't want to blow any seals/heater core. your abs light is on...
Excelente. Hi. My grand prix the heater starts to rattle or sound strange. What can be? I changed the piece with gear that allows to change from cold to hot and vice versa and still with the sound. Change the entire board and still follow. Help
Unfortunately, that would be impossible to diagnose from here, as there could be many causes, but I would give this piece of advice...try and isolate the sound first. Is it coming from the engine? From the driver or passenger side? From the dashboard? Once you find out where the sound is coming from, you can begin looking in that area and see what the potential causes are. To me, it *sounds* like it is the blower motor, so you may want to check that out. Otherwise, try and see if you can locate the issue.
She would be wrong. they are different lengths and molds, but they are the same 5/8th hose. I am 100% sure for 3800, and about 90% sure for the 5.3L. But they are 5/8th for sure.
It's late and I'm short on sleep so I may have missed this. Did you not first drain all the coolant in your system before completing this part of the flush?
Nope, I didn't drain the coolant, and you don't need to, unless you are planning a full flush (which is not a bad idea to do if you're doing this core flush anyways)
@@NexusAuto So, did you either clamp some hosing somewhere or will antifreeze just not pour out the open ends of where you disconnected from as they appear to be high enough that most fluid will have settled elsewhere at a lower point?
@@TheAgentAaron great question! I didn't clamp anything. A little bit of antifreeze will come out, but if you're quick, it will be minimal. It's also why I bled it from the lines at the engine and not at the firewall, as it sits higher, so less issues with gravity bleeding being an issue. I didn't have to clamp anything otherwise
Hello mate.i got mercedes a class a170...mine blow air but dont come warm air..what i can do?all works before to i go in holliday,when i comeback give low warm air,but now it stop give warn air inside the cabin..
Hard to say without being there, but there is only a few possible causes. First, does your car get to normal operating temperatures? Or does it run very cool? When you put the air on, do you get cold air and no warm air, or no air at all? When you try the different fan speeds, do you hear the blower motor going slower and faster? Does your a class have dual passenger heating? If so, do you get different temps from the passenger and driver sides? These questions can help narrow down a lot
cold air working,but dont workign hot air...car workign perfectly,temperatures are fine..nothing changed...just ho heating inside..last january i was in holliday(Christmas holliday)for 2 weeks,after i coemback in Uk home..before to i go to holliday heating works perfectly,after i comeback works but verry slow..and now dont work ...when i turn on heating in the car on warm air come cold air not warm air...
@@TheRazvancristian so as mentioned before, it is hard to say 100% what the problem is without testing the car, but based on the information provided, it does sound like Heater Core failure. Either the heater core has gone bad, air is trapped in the core, or it is clogged. It could be other things too, like the heater controls do not recognize when you tell the car to heat up, but that is less likely. Still, all these things should be looked at. If your car came to my shop, I would probably check the heater core first.
So I have a 2006 grand prix and I'm sure the dex cool is sludge at this point Would it be a good Idea to coolant flush the entire system and go to the green coolant or just stay with dex cool
It is absolutely the best idea to do a complete flush on the system. As for using traditional green or back to dexcool, it is up to you. I have seen valid arguments for both. Green does not last as long as Dex, but does not sludge up as bad. You can go longer with Dex, but run the risk of sludge build up. I am still currently running Dex, but know people who have switched to Green. Your call
@@NexusAuto Update : Me and a co worker managed to flush out the coolant and heating core I must admit the cover is a pain in the ass so we just cut it off and pulled off the larger hose , flushed out the heating core AND golly the coolant came out nearly a blackish Red color . Got about 97% of the Dex coolant and buildup out , the 3% being the little buildup inside the larger hose . Swapped to green to be on the safe side and its running ALOT better and blowing cold air and hot air when needed . Thank you for the video ! Edit : didn't realize the 3800 series engine was really a reliable version
@@ThaProd1gy Awesome news! Sounds like your car definitely needed that flush! Good move on switching to the green too...less sludge build up in the long run! Thanks for letting me know everything went well. One less thing to worry about now LOL
@@NexusAuto The most challenging thing about the flush was the cover just under the front area. After realizing one of the bolts was stripped due to old age We just hacksawed the plastic off . If that helps anyone who also struggles with that darn cover
It would for sure. There can be a few causes to only getting warm air from the heating system, but a clogged heater core is a very common cause. At the very least, it is worth doing just to clean it out.
Sounds like this video is the ticket. I'm not there so can't tell you 100%, but if your heat is one, and both hoses are not hot, then either you have air in the core or it is clogged. A flush is a good first step to see if you can get it going
You don't have to. I didn't in this video, and it worked no problem. Just have to make sure to burp the system at the end. However, if you have the time and resources, it would be a good time to do it anyways.
Honda pilot 2006 my friend I have no heat barely any. I flushed my heater core, my engine and radiator and changed my thermostat, then I filled it with blue anti freeze 1st day I had heat, 2nd day no heat barley any, please any idea.
hmmm, this is a trickier one, as there could be a few things that is causing this. 1. When you flushed the system, did a lot of gunk come out? Was it really clogged? 2. When you say flushed, did you just drain the old fluid and put new fluid in, or did you do something like I did in this video? 3. How is the engine temperature? Does it stay too cool or too hot? Off the top of my head, it sounds like either a bad thermostat, bad water pump, or clogged heater core, but it can be a few other things. Those questions above may help narrow it down.
If the car is overheating, I would start looking at other things... 1. check and make sure the radiator fans are coming on. idle the car (or rev to 2500 rpm) and wait for the car to warm up. make sure the fans turn on. 2. Check or replace thermostat 3. Flush coolant. Dexcool sludges up pretty bad. 4. Look into water pump. I would start with the above. Hope that helps a bit.
Hey brother I love the video! You explain everything and showed everything how it's done. 10 out of 10 . Soon I want to make videos on HOW TO with my Pontiac Grand Prix GXP . But love the video I will subscribe and like!
That's awesome news, glad to hear the video was helpful. Hope you get to make How To Videos as well. Nothing wrong with that. Appreciate the like and sub...thank you!
Hi there, need your advice. I had the cooling system flush including heater core done at the dealer. The heater core was completely clogged. The previous owner never changed the dexcool in the 12 years they had it. Its on 07 GP base. Since then I have replaced the coolant bypass elbows, thermostat, bled the system and the temperature gauge still goes over the halfway mark, and the trans temp has been as high as 220 degrees. We got a code for cooling fan 2, and it was dead. We just replaced and no change but no more check engine light or code however symptoms still happening. I can't find any proper instructions on how to change the coolant temp sensor. Looks terrible to replace. Any advice?
Unfortunately, there is a few things that can go wrong here, so it is hard to really say. Have you checked the fan relays? You may have already, but just thought I would mention it. Just to clarify, you changed the fan, and now there is no check engine light or code anymore...what is cooling fan 2 doing? Is it still dead? I don't have a video on the coolant temperature sensor, but I can tell you it is located on top of the engine, under the cover (if you still have the cover). It is at the front, near the intake manifold, slightly to the right. It is sometimes a blue and white plug. Hope that helps with locating it.
@@NexusAuto Hi thanks for the reply. Yes we checked the fan relays. We changed the fan and don't see fan 2 turning on just fan 1. No light or code. I know where the coolant temp sensor is under the thermostat housing, it looks extremely difficult to do because of the location. The engine mount bracket and the exhaust manifold heat shield are in the way. Very tight space, terrible location. Praying that the sensor is not communicating properly to trigger the fan.
@@paulfarber701 hopefully it is the sending unit. Altbough, to be honest, it sounds like an electrical issue, like a bad wire or connector. For the water pump, I would say to inspect the pulley with the car running. If you see it wobbling, seizing, or moving erratically, or if you hear any noise, definitely change it.
Love your video, thank you! Question, Is the heater core connected to the engine coolant system or is it completely separate? If connected do you recommend an engine coolant flush simultaneously?
Very good question. The heater system is part of the cooling system. If you have not done a coolant system flush in a while, it would definitely be a good idea. If that is the case, you would do THIS flush first, to clear out the heater core, then put everything back to together like in the video, then flush the entire coolant. Even knowing you will re-flush the coolant, it is very important to follow this video, even putting in fresh coolant just to dump it again, as if you don't, you can get air in the heater core and do more damage vs good. Other than that advisement, you can definitely flush the coolant out too!
@@NexusAuto thanks for your help, you helped tons! I ended up having to bypass the heater core on my 06 Grand Prix due to the core leaking. I've seen a few videos of people changing the heater core. My goodness that thing is in a tight spot
@@cjkeeney7293 Yeah it is! It is definitely a pain. Sucks with the core leaking, but glad to hear the video and the info was helpful. Hopefully you get that core fixed and regain your heating function!
Hey! Thanks for all your 05 GP videos. They have been very helpful. Wondered if you might have an idea about an odd problem I've had. Replaced my thermostat about 6 weeks ago and there's been a slow leak of coolant around the housing for the thermostat. I used the gasket originally but it was hemorrhaging fluid and causing the engine to read overheat. Took the gasket off and managed to stop the big leak. Car reads normal temps but in the MN winter the air getting into my system is affecting my heat. Anything I missed in reinstalling the housing?
No problem at all! Happy to hear the videos are helpful. How is the mating surfaces for the thermostat? Even if a new gasket is installed, if there is even a little bit of the old gasket left over around the housing, it can cause leaks to get out or air to get in. I would start there. If not, you may need to have a pressure test done to see where the air is getting in from.
Hmmm. I would have to take a look at the wiring for that light and see what could be the issue. Unfortunately, I'm not on site, and won't be for a few days. I'll have to check when I get back
@@kingavery8918 hi Joe...thanks for the video. I didn't get a chance to pull mine apart yet, so it was a great refresher. First, I'm digging the look of your GP. Nice seat covers and blue lights! You should do a daytime and night walk-around videos sometime. I checked the fuse box. There is no separate fuse for the shift console, so if the other interior lights works, then it's not the fuse. I know this may sound crazy, but that's an LED, right? Did you try turning the bulb? 194 LEDs are polar sensitive, so they work when plugged in one way, but not the other. If it still doesn't work, try a regular bulb, if you have one. That will let you know if there is any power at all. If it still doesn't work, then the only thing to try is a voltmeter. Check and see if you have power at the socket, then at that plug about half a foot down from shift bulb, and keep moving further back until you find it. It is likely a broken wire somewhere. Electrical always drives me nuts...many times it's a broken wire in some random, unexplainable place lol
To be honest, I did not measure how much I used exactly. But I would estimate between charging the heater core, and adding to the radiator, it was between 2 and 3 quarts/litres.
@@tiggermix awesome...it gets so clogged up. Looks like you really cleaned it up. Perfect timing for the heater too. I would recommend getting the coolant flushed at some point as well. When the heater core gets sludged up like that, the rest of the system may be as well. Other than that, glad you have your heat back, and the vid helped out for sure. :)
@@tiggermix unfortunately, I don't have one at this time. The last flush I did was my pre-RUclips days. It is due for another, but it won't be until next year, sad to say. But I do plan to have one then.
Really, just make them as long as you need to work comfortably. I didn't measure directly, so not 100% sure. But I would think 3-4 feet each line should be sufficient
excelent work especially as one hand was holding your camera. I have big chubby fingers so I do not know how it will turn out. It looks fiddlely removing and replacing the hoses
I have been having problems with my heat not coming on sometimes and when it does it blows out room temperature or colder. Would you suggest me to flush it?
Possibly, but what you're describing can be a few issues, and you would need to determine the issue first. So my first questions are 1. Is the car temp heating up, even when no hot air is coming out the vents? 2. Are you noticing the issues on different settings within the heater controls?
Nexus Auto there are no differences when I switch the controls and I can hear the switch changing when I turn it. The temp works normal and I changed the thermostat. Heat also comes through the vents after traveling for a while but I'm not sure if that's coming off the motor or not.
Ok so there is still a couple of things that can cause that, but it sounds like the heater core is clogged. If the engine is heating ok, then it won't be a heating issue. If the fan turns on and changes speeds when you change the knob settings, then it wouldn't be a blower motor problem either. So this only leaves a few things. i would recommend flushing out the heater core (this vid for sure :) ). Unfortunately, the coolant GM uses (Dexcool) tends to become think and clay like, and clogs all sorts of things. My heater core was clear only because I maintain it. The first time I did it, it looked like mud coming out. I would say to try that first and let me know how it goes
Ohh...that is so hard to answer. It all depends on what you're looking for and what you want. Some people want cosmetics, some what performance, and some want both (I am in this crowd). Some just want exterior design, some what a stock looking car that is a sleeper. Generally speaking, when talking performance, I always recommend the big 3 first...tires, brakes, and suspension. I always start with this because, no matter how much power you put in, if you cant connect that power to the ground, then it's money wasted. Aside from that, it all depends on what you're looking for.
@@XxMalabooo nice, you've been busy on your car. Awesome. Ok, so depending on your skill level, a good upgrade is a shift kit. it is relatively easy to install (but can seem scary at first for some), but it sucks if you just did your transmission fluid. Still, it was one of my favorite upgrades and made such a difference in how the car shifts. And considering the delicate nature of these transmissions, if installed correctly, they actually help prolong the life of the transmission (unless you beat the hell out of your car lol). There is are other things, like the big 3 of combustion...air, fuel and spark. But the biggest mistake people make is they upgrade these things (air intake, plugs ,wires, fuel injectors, fuel pump, throttle body, etc) but do not get a tune for their car. So the car barely utilizes these changes. If you approach these, make sure you get a tune for your car that can make the most of these mods. And then from here, it just goes up. In performance, and cost lol
@@NexusAuto just curious; If I took a prix super charger from the junk yard; how hard do you think it would be to convert my v6 base? Any video resources you may have on that?
@@XxMalabooo good question. I did look into this in the past, and plan to supercharge mine at some point in the far future, but there some things to know. First, I have no video resources on it. I'm sure there has to be some out there, but I haven't looked in a while, and when I did, there wasn't any. That was a while ago though lol. Second, to answer the question, yep, it can be done. But be warned, it's not easy. Aside from the Supercharger, A LOT has to be changed to get it to work. The cylinder heads, throttle body, injectors and rails, MAP sensor and wiring, and a bunch of other stuff. And you need a custom ECM with programming for the Supercharger. If none of this is done, the car will run like complete garbage. And let's not forget the non supercharged engine only has the standard 4t65e transmission, not the 4t65eHD version. So that needs upgraded. Third thing is something a lot of people don't know or consider. The N/A 3800 runs a higher compression ratio vs the 3800SC. The good news is you'll actually make more power than a stock 3800SC. The bad news is something is likely to go kaboom once you put the power down a few times. The tune can potentially help with this though, if done correctly. I know...bummer, right? Although it's expensive, the best bet is the Supercharger kit from zzp performance. It's a lot of work, but accounts for everything, including the higher compression (but not the transmission, that still should be upgraded too).
Very little to no heat in the car, even with the fans on at full blast. The heater core takes the hot coolant and uses it to warm the air for the heater, and that is the only thing it really affects. Depending on the car, it fan also reduce air flow to the vents, but that's not every car.
@@armandomendoza1289 ok sounds good. are you getting any white smoke out of exhaust and coolant in the engine oil(it would look milky white)? If so, then it's not likely to be the head gasket at all. I would start off by flushing the heater core and see what comes out first, and see if that fixes the issue. However, if you have white smoke or milky oil, you may want to approach the head gasket first. It's always hard to say remotely, but this is the best general way to approach it, I think
@@armandomendoza1289 hmmm, that is unusual. Is that issue still occuring? Did a check engine light come on? The heater core and rpms should not be directly related like that.
Solid video, little off-topic question.. I have an 08 GP and my left exhaust is rusting off to the point of sagging a lot. Do you think I'd be better off just ripping it off and getting someone to weld a straight pipe on or pay for the actual replacement? (which from what I heard is very expensive even just for one side).
friggin dan thanks. To answer your question, depends on what you're looking. Straight pipe will be way cheaper, but will be pretty damn loud. You're right, the factory exhaust is expensive and in some cases hard to find, depending on what's rusted. But if you still want a quieter factory sound, it is the way to go. Another alternative is to get an aftermarket muffler. They don't last quite as long as the OEM muffler, but they're really cheap. Like around $50-ish. That may be an option too
Thanks for the advice! Cheaper is better for me and now that the car is 10 years old a lot of problems are starting to crop up so I'm not sure how long she has left in her anyway. Transmission is starting to give me problems. Aftermarket might be the way I go!
No problem. Mufflers rusting out and hanging are a somewhat common problem...so are transmission issues. The 3800 engines will run a good while, but the transmissions need to be babied to even consider lasting. I do a pan-drop filter change constantly and try to be as easy as possible with it. If you haven't yet done it yet, try do a pan-drop filter change.
I think I might do that. Thinking I'll need to replace my plugs as well - sometimes I get misfires at 60kph and I've noticed I've lost some power. Love the grand prix but god damn the problems with these things. Had my ECM crack 8 months ago and had to replace that - wasn't cheap. I've seen your vid on changing the plugs but don't have the tools myself. If you were closer to me (London, Ontario) I'd pay you to do it all.
Yeah when these issues start popping up, they really come all at once. Hopefully after you've completed these last few things, you'll be good for a while. It's too bad your not closer too, then I would have definitely brought your car in. Love the Grand Prix too. There is so many awesome things about them, but they have their annoyances too. Did you try cleaning the throttle body as well? Very cheap and easy job, and its a very common problem for Grand Prixs(and other GM Fly-By-Wire throttle bodys as well)
You can have other issues. Anything from an electrical issue (the car not telling the heat to turn on), to an mechanical issue like a radiator or water pump. How's the temp gauge on the car? Does it go up with the car is warmed up? Does it stay around the middle, or is too low or high? When you feel the output hose on the heater core (carefully), one should be hotter, and one cooler. Do you notice this? This will give you an idea of what's going on
@@NexusAuto temperature stays in the Middle but the both hoses stay cold . Took a road trip this pass week about 300 miles and the car work great but no heat !any ideas what to check next !
@jesusaguilar8923 ok, so for the engine itself, that all sounds good. Good pump, rad, and car temp is where it should be. If both lines are cold, then there isn't any flow there at all. Sounds like there is a blockage, but maybe in the inlet hose or even when the hoses hook up to the block. There could also be air in the system that is preventing the flow to the core, but if you burp the system like in the video, that should be good. And I assume that when you hooked up the flush, water came out the other side no problem? If so, then my guess is to check the 2 hoses themselves for blockages, and if not, take the hoses off the engine block and check in there
I have actually never performed a coolant flush on my GP, and so I never removed the knock sensors. I know if you want a full flush, the need to be removed. Unfortunately, I have not done it...yet.
My grand prix is running hot. I flush the radiator and got a new thermostat also and bleed out the air in system but when I turn my heat off the temperature go up but dont overheat and the top upper radiator hose is hard . When my engine down I check the radiator and the antifreeze is low and my overflow tank is fill. Could my radiator be clogged or do I have a blown head gasket. I didn't flush out my heater core. I dont know what to do. I price a new radiator 130 dollar which I have the money for it but I dont want to buy if my head gasket is blown
Hmmm, this is a tricky one as there can be a few causes. The first thing that does run through my mind is a clog or faulty water pump. But let's break down a few things you can try, and a few points to mention. 1. How high does the temperature go up with the heat off? does it go to the middle, 75%, etc? 2. If the overflow tank was empty or low before, but full afterwards, that could be a safety mechanism kicking in to dump the hot fluid from the rad to the overflow tank to cool. 3. To check the head gasket, first look around for any coolant around the engine. Pull the dipstick for the oil and check it as well. If it is milky, that is a problem. I dont think this is a blown head gasket however (could be wrong, but not the first thing I would go to) 4. I dont think the heater core is the issue, since the engine heats up with the heat off. 5. what happens if you run the heat at full blast? does the engine stay cooler? 6. It could be the rad fan. Run the car from cool and let it warm up (keep an eye on it so it does not overheat). When it reaches about half way, the fan should kick in (it may be obvious, but keep hands and tools away from the engine & fan when it is running). See if the fan is even kicking in. 7. Assuming the fan is working ok, you should check the water pump. To do a basic check if the water pump is working, check the lower hose when the fan kicks in CAREFULLY. You should feel that hose get pretty hot as it dumps the hot coolant into the rad. This should hopefully give you some good starting points to work with. Thanks for watching!
I have a 91 dodge durango 5.2 and the heater is blowing out cold air. I did a heat core flush and it's still blowing cold air. What else could be the problem and also, I put new anti freeze in.
Hello. There could be a few causes, but my first question is. 91 Durango? I thought the Durango started in the last 90s. Can you confirm if this is maybe an 01? With that, there could be other things in play. How is the car heating up? Is it running too cool, or take a very long time to warm up?
I'm sorry, it's a 1999 durango. The truck is running cool and alittle time to warm up. After flushing the heater core, i drove it for about 4 miles and it was still cold air coming out.
No problem at all. i just wanted to make sure I was looking at the right vehicle, just in case. Sounds like it could be a few things here. If the Durango is taking too long to warm up, then the heater core may not be warming up enough to generate enough heat for the vehicle. So that is one potential issue. One good test (but it can be dangerous, so please exercise caution) it so turn on the truck and run it at idle for a few minutes with the heat off. Once warmed up, run the heater at full blast for a couple of minutes. Once running, get to the inlet and outlet hoses for the heater core and feel them both. They should both be hot to the touch. Again, be careful for any mechanical components in motion and for the heat of the hoses themselves. HOT!! If the hoses are both hot, then hot coolant is flowing through no problem and the issue likely lies in the heater core itself, or with the controls on the center console. That is something that gets overlooked often. If you turn it from cool to heat, but no heat comes through, it could have a problem with the switches themselves. While I dont have extensive experience with the older Durangos, I do not recall hearing about the switches failing often, but it can happen. However, if one hose is hot, and the other is significantly cooler, then the flush may not have been successful enough, or the heater core could be failing. If neither hose is hot at all, then you likely have a blockage somewhere in the block near the inlet hose, the water pump may not be pushing coolant quick enough through the block of the engine, the thermostat make me stuck open, or the car is generally running too cool. Hope this helps. If any other questions, give me a shout.
@@gustavosaavedra1151 the car should be cold. Ideally, it wouldn't hurt to warm it slightly, but it is hard to gauge the heat of coolant and it can burn significantly. So the safest way is to do it when cold.
Sorry, I tried to get the info on which is the inlet and outlet. It would *seem* that the hose closest to the water pump to the heater core is the outlet hose, but I couldn't get 100% confirmation.
The concepts are generally the same, but the location of the heater core and hookups are slightly different. If I remember, the heater core is a bit more central against the firewall...could be wrong. But otherwise, the process is more or less the same
Most parts stores should have them. Since you're in Canada(hello eh lol), you can get everything from the same place I did, if the store is in your area. Canadian Tire! :) Thanks for watching too!. More content coming.
Show off of what I seen you build here I built me a unit so I can hook you there a hose to or use are with by making adapter for the unit I made and I have a on off switch in line for the water bought all the stuff and a bag and a blow tool from harbor freight
I’d say video is fine and good also quality is good but the car I hate my brother has one a 04 so many electrical problems that really shouldn’t exist really and it is a problem hate it
Also all the expensive parts break first on the car nothing cheap breaks only cheap think that broke but well destroy your engine if you don’t know good job gm is those stupid 90 elbows under the alternator dumps all your coolant because those go to the heater core so free flow from the water pump…. Stupid car
@@photondebuger45 Damn, sorry to hear. Generally speaking, this should not be the case...sounds like your brother really got a lemon. Normally, the big issue is the transmission, and then a few other small things (mostly electrical, as you said), but looks like you guys had a bad run. Really sorry to hear that. Hopefully your brother can finally catch a break. Sucks having a money-pit car.
@@NexusAuto oh we are getting rid of that.... thing but yeah I forgot the transmission has it's hiccup with that too like it bucks real hard in first after that it's ok transmission has a whine when the engine is on and at speed so that thing isn't longed for this world either way
@@photondebuger45 Yeah, it sounds like you guys need to drop that car asap. That transmission definitely sounds like it is on the way out. Considering the issues you guys had, you are making the right choice, I think
Lb Ut almost any parts store. If you're in Canada, I got it at Canadian Tire. If you're in the US, I believe places like Pep Boys and stuff have them. But that's the best I can tell you
Thanks for the video, I think I have a leak in the core can I ask you what you think about products like stop leak or k seal. Am I just creating problems for later on. I am not proficient to change the core myself and we just do not have the cash to get it done by a mechanic which I have been told could be over £1000
No problem at all. Generally, I do not recommend those stop leaks. They are a bit unreliable, and if they do work, it may only end up being temporary. They dont really cause any more damage , but the do not mix well with Dexcool coolant, as it can accelerate the dexcool breakdown(a common problem) and it can clog the heater core. So depending on the year of Grand Prix you are using, I would avoid it is possible, since it is not a permanent solution. However, at the same time, if this is just a matter of buying some time until you can get the Core changed, then I would say go for it. Worse case scenario in a short term setting is it doesnt stop the leak. Just do use it as a potential permanent fix.
Wonderful video, but you'd probably have better presentation if you prepped and double checked everything before running off and recording the video. It would look more professional and neat. I will say that I enjoyed this video very much however and I think it's quality, but you said yourself you'd be open to constructive criticism. C: I thank you for taking the time to upload this and hope to see more from you now that I'll have subbed.
I appreciate all feedback, and I thank you. This video was from 3 years ago, and after that mistake, I took more care in prep, exactly as you recommended. It was a simple mistake, but a crucial one. Thanks again, thanks for the sub for sure! and glad to hear the video was enjoyable. Will have more in the future for sure!
Yep, good eye. At the time, i had a broken wire on the front wheel bearing, and it was tripping the traction control light (and the ABS light would be on as well). It has since been fixed.
While I generally agree that distilled water is what should be in an active cooling system, since the car is not turned on in any way and the heater core is charged with fresh coolant afterwards, distilled water has little effect. There wont be any mineral deposits. Now, if the system was closed off with the water inside and the car turned on and allowed to warm up, that is a different story...
I dont think so. If the core was dirty, it would affect the heat of both sides. It sounds like something internal, maybe the blend vent or a device called Air Mix Damper Control Servo Motor Circuit. There is actually a few things that can go wrong to cause that on the single standard climate control system. Unfortunately, this is something that I would need to be there for to test. What happens when you put on the AC? Do you still get hot air on driver side, cool on passenger?
Oh, I don't know, talking about what is happening inside the heater core and safety with coolant seems pretty important to me. Maybe you know this stuff, or don't care, but a lot of people do. You are not the only one watching the video. To each their own. Take care.
This comes up from time to time, but for every person who says a video is too long, I get 10 who say they like the detail. There are people watching who like to learn or are first timers. If I make a short video, then someone like you is happy, but people who want more details miss out. If I make longer videos, everyone wins. Don't like the details? You can just scroll ahead. #NuffSaid
Hey Kirk. I will give the same answer I give to anyone who says this...you can't make a video that fits everyone. But here is the thing...if I make a short, quick video, those who want to learn miss out. However, if I make a longer, descriptive video, those who want to learn get the info, and those who don't care can skip to the parts these need, like you can, for example. This is the best way to get info to everyone. Trust me, for every person who says I talk to much, there is 100 who appreciates the info as they are trying to learn, some for the first time. I understand your feedback, and wish you well
Sir, I did not catch your name . David from Alabama 2022 here. Thank you so much for this Video. Wifes car was doing this and more. Changed the thermostat , first no heat. Followed your video to the letter, other than I put some flush in first. Had to flush for a while changing from top to bottom then more flush. Put it all back cranked and drove around, Heater was like brand new. Wife was so happy. About $50.00 for everything. Again THANKS SO MUCH.
Hi David. Thank you for this great feedback. I really do appreciate it. Fantastic news to hear that your wifes car has heater is working again, and a lot of money saved too! Thank you for watching!
This video was very helpful. My heater was blowing cold air. After watching this video I successfully flushed my heater core and is now blowing hot air.
Thanks!
Awesome. Glad to hear the video helped! Thanks for watching!
You’re the man! Tried everything to get my heat back. This fixed it as soon as I started driving it after the flush. Easy instructions. Lifesaver
Awesome! Glad to hear that you got your heat back...just in time too. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave some feedback! Appreciate it!
Cost $22. Just did this on my '07 Grand Prix. Worked excellent. Went from no heat to so much heat you can't hold your hand in front of the vents for more than few seconds. It's HOT now. I bought 20ft clear tubing, nylon 5/8's fittings, 3/4 for the garden hose, and Preston flush. The Prestone is clear so I added some food coloring to make it blue. I let it sit in the core for about 1/2 hour. Honestly most of the chunks came out with the water flushing. Thanks for the video.
Awesome news! What a difference it made. Glad to hear the video helped out, and thanks for the great feedback!
I've used compressed air for years to do this and looked it up mainly to find where the heater core hoses were as I had to do this on my childs mom's car, and it wasn't in front of me yet. Compressed air is messy, and very risky that you can punch a hole through the thin copper of the heater core, and seeing this, I decided to try it this way. $20 at a local hardware store and I had it done in 10 minutes. No flush solution just plain water. The core was completely plugged and after it was night and day difference. Thank you for this video, you were very helpful man and I appreciate it.
No problem at all. I am truly happy to hear that the video was very helpful. Glad to see both your child and the mom can enjoy a warm car for the winter. Thanks for watching...much appreciated!
This video helped me go from zero heat on my 2005 pontiac grand am, to blasting heat. Thank you so much. Lessons learned: 1. If your driveway is slanted up, back in instead of pull in. When I pulled the hose from the engine block (on grand am), the coolant leaked EVERYWHERE because of the slant on the hill. 2. The hose clamps by GM are a PITA without the right tool to move them. I ended up throwing one about a 100 feet after I finally got it off, and I put a replacement hose clamp on (2 for $3 at autozone) that simply screws tight.
Awesome! Perfect timing to get your heat back. Glad the video was very helpful. Also, thanks for those helpful tips. Always like tips like that...helps future viewers and you can save someone a lot of hassle. Thanks!
PS. Those clamps are a giant PITA! Always a damn headache! I feel your pain.
I wanted to let you know how much your video was to me. My impala was only blowing warm are. I used your information and was able to flush out the core, prime the core with good coolant, and get my car blowing HOT air now. It was clogged with dex cool sludge.Thank you for your video.
That's is awesome news! I am really happy to hear how this video helped and you now have some nice hot air blowing. Such a common problem on these cars (and indeed, many Dexcool cars). Thanks for taking the time to comment...appreciate it
Thanks for this video! Don't know much about cars but my 02 Grand Am seems to be running pretty hot (not overheating though) and has low coolant constantly. Also have no heat, just blows cold air. Coworker told me to try this, and i was nervous about it but your video was super thorough and informative and has me confident that I can do this myself! If it doesn't fix every issue it definitely won't hurt at least!
That;s awesome. This is exactly why i make these videos. Thanks for the great feedback. It does sound like you have a couple of different issues going on there. Hopefully this helps. Let me know how it goes!
Did you do it?Sounds like low coolant/ leak and or clogged heater core.Coolant needed a flush.What was the outcome?
I've had them plugged with that sludge and used muratic acid to flush out the whole system worked great the radiator and heater core was like new flow was perfect after i flushed it out
Nice. Muriatic Acid sounds like it would be aggressive, but if it worked, all the better. Glad to hear that the whole coolant system is lie new! Awesome stuff!
I bought my 2007 Grand Prix used and noticed my heater wasn't getting hot so I flushed the radiator and installed a new thermostat, still no heat. The coolant looked muddy coming out so I figured the heater core was clogged and it was DEFINITELY clogged. I back flushed it with my garden hose and now it blows hot. The dexcool coolant is nasty stuff if it isn't changed regularly. Oh yeah I used the heater hoses from the motor end to flush the core. I left the hoses attached to the heater core fittings as not to disturb them or crack the outlet/inlet fittings.
Awesome! Glad to hear the flush worked out. I agree, Dexcool is toxic to the car is not handled correctly. I have pulled apart quite a few cooling systems with Dexcool and it is hard like clay. Terrible stuff in the early days! Thanks for leaving the feedback!
Went from no heat to having to turn down the temp...Too Warm! Thanks!
Hey, nothing wrong with that. Glad that the video helped and it all worked out!
Nice video, very informative. I should've done this months ago when Fall started to set in, now I'm going to have to wait until probably late Spring when everything thaws out again to do it myself.
Thanks for the great comment. Sucks that you cant do it now, as now is the time to do it. Who knows? Maybe you will get a mild-weather day. Do it then, if you can. Otherwise, the video will be here in the spring when you need it :)
LogicalFallacies89 l88j
Saw this video yesterday, flushed the core today and voila! The heat works again! Just wanted to say thank you.
Awesome, glad to hear the video worked out. No problem at all, and thanks for watching.
SUBBED!
@@MisterClassic77 Awesome! Appreciate it!
the grand prix has a coolant bleeder screw ....... won't be properly bled until u use it. it's located ontop of thermostat housing. u have to set idle at 2000 rpm and crack that screw to get all air out of system
This is very true...especially true for a full flush. It's a very good point and worth noting for sure. The purpose of this flush is to just clear out the heater core though. The dexcool breaks down and creates sludge/clay inside the core. I can tell you for sure that when a full flush is done, even from the dealer, is the core is clogged, it will not always flush it out, especially if it was the first flush after many years. And furthermore, air gets trapped in the heater core when it's in this gummed up state, even with a full flush. This is definitely NOT to replace a full flush, but just a way to clear the heater core. Basically, for anyone who is flushing their own systems, this would be a good first step, before completing a full flush. I will also say if done properly, you wont need to bleed the system afterwards.
Just flushed my core and it work like a charm. I now have my heat back!! Thanks for the video bro! You saved me $350 bucks. A mechanic told me I needed a new heater core he didnt even suggest a flush out.
Awesome! Glad to hear the video helped and saved some serious cash. It is funny how a simple flush is overlooked. Some even say it doesnt make sense to do it. But it makes such a huge difference. Thanks again for watching!
Great video. Thanks a lot. Very happy to save the money and gain the knowledge.
Awesome news. Glad to hear the video helped on both! Thanks for watching!
I may try this out on a Chevy Cavalier that I have. The heater does work good but if you hold on to the hose coming from the heater core you feel there isn't a lot of flow going to the thermostat. I made the mistake of mixing the green coolant and Dexcool. After a few months my car began to run hotter about 20 degrees more then the midpoint of 195. I had the car for about 9 months now and its always ran at 195 or below before this issue happened.
Give it a try for sure. Would be a good time to flush your coolant too and put in the right one. Mixing the two can also sludge up the channels a bit, so wouldnt hurt. If you flush the core and you see a lot of sludge come out, definitely flush your whole system too. Either way, since you are dumping some coolant anyways, might as well dump the old mixed coolant and put fresh Dex in. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
This explains why my heart isn’t working it’s just blowing cold air thank you sooo much
No problem at all! Happy to hear this video helps out
OK when you were putting the coolant back in, I could not see which one was the inner when you was adding the coolant so I got a little lost. Could you send me a video one show me how to add the coolant in which holes
@@LittleMissPrincess-1219 unfortunately I won't be able to make a video on filling it at this time, but I can tell you I filled up the core by pouring the coolant down the tube that led down to the upper (higher) hose as seen on the firewall. Once you see the coolant flows through the lower hose, the core is (mostly) full. Just need to burp the system afterwards. Hope this helps
Nice video brother today I flushed my heater core and changed my thermostat in a mint 02 lasabre found the sludge .
Nice, glad to hear the video helped out and you got that sludge out. Just in time for winter too. Thanks for watching.
Just did mine nexus with the help of your video I have heat now
Awesome news! Good to hear from you again Cheefn. Glad to hear this video helped out too!
@@NexusAuto most likely you will here from me time to time lol
@@cheefn4u217 LOL no worries.
Just came across this. I am planning an all fluid flush on my 04 prix. So thank you. Great videos keep it up
Awesome, glad to hear the video helped and thanks for leaving the great feedback. appreciate it.
Thank you so much for this video. Walked me thru fixing my fiancé’s car today
That's awesome news, glad to hear. Now your fiance can get some heat again, especially this time of the year! Thanks for watching and leaving feedback too!
Thanks for this very detailed video. I feel confident to do mine now.
labrae no problem...glad it helped.. Thanks for watching.
is that the check engine light on your dashboard
What I need to know is which side the coolent flows so I can pour the water in the right hose. Please reply asap
I would just say to run it through in both directions anyways. But if you want to do it in coolant flow direction, the inlet hose is the one the sits lower right (passenger) side on the firewall.
@@NexusAuto appreciate it
I'm so frustrated I clearly see how an what u connected that first hose to. But I dont know what and where u connected that second hose, the one where your actually feeding the water thru.
Sorry, I should have showed hooking up the other hose too. If you go to 11:50, you will see those hose I am disconnecting on the left. If you look just to the right, there is another hose there. That is the other hose I hooked up to. It has the same clamp-style hose fitting. You can also see it top-down at around 12:08, it is to the right of the one I am working on. Hope this helps
So basically you're just hooking a hose to each house on one side. The inlet and the outlet. And you totally leave the ones on the driver's side alone?
Ok yeah, at 24:05 you can clearly see. But still, totally leave hoses on driver's side alone?
What 5/8 hose is that. Inner diameter or outer. Have inner and it looks too small
Hmmm, it's been a while since I made this video. But pretty sure it was inside diameter
@@NexusAuto it was i figured out. Also video recommends only getting one set of hose clamp menders. You will need 2. Otherwise thanks for the video
Hey thanks for this video, it helped fix my 2008 GP!
Awesome news, glad to hear. Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
Was ur car getting hot and heat going up and down
@@michaelplew3832 The car's thermostat was going up while driving and the heater was not putting out heat. Doing the trick in the video pushed out a bunch of corroded gunk from the heater core before I flushed the rest of the cooling system. It's in working order now!
gunk engine cleaner is your friend. Looks like your engine would benefit! Nice video. I did not do this when i changed my hoses/belts/heater helper hoses and flushed the system. I bet mine looks good too, but I should look to flush this just to be sure.
To add: if you wanted you could add a T with shutoff and cap on the end without hoses to make this even easier to clean up when disconnecting (more expensive though).
Low water pressure is key here, don't want to blow any seals/heater core.
your abs light is on...
Thank you for sharing
No problem. Thanks for watching
Thank u so much for your video I did exactly what u did n it worked perfectly heat is blowing hotter than every thanks a lot for the video
Awesome, glad to hear the video worked out! Fantastic news! Thanks for watching and leaving feedback.
Excelente.
Hi. My grand prix the heater starts to rattle or sound strange. What can be? I changed the piece with gear that allows to change from cold to hot and vice versa and still with the sound. Change the entire board and still follow. Help
Unfortunately, that would be impossible to diagnose from here, as there could be many causes, but I would give this piece of advice...try and isolate the sound first. Is it coming from the engine? From the driver or passenger side? From the dashboard? Once you find out where the sound is coming from, you can begin looking in that area and see what the potential causes are.
To me, it *sounds* like it is the blower motor, so you may want to check that out. Otherwise, try and see if you can locate the issue.
Hey is the hoses the same width like 5/8ths? Because the lady at o rileys told me they were different sized hose.
She would be wrong. they are different lengths and molds, but they are the same 5/8th hose. I am 100% sure for 3800, and about 90% sure for the 5.3L. But they are 5/8th for sure.
My man. Helpful as always.
Thanks for the comment! Glad it helps!
It's late and I'm short on sleep so I may have missed this. Did you not first drain all the coolant in your system before completing this part of the flush?
Nope, I didn't drain the coolant, and you don't need to, unless you are planning a full flush (which is not a bad idea to do if you're doing this core flush anyways)
@@NexusAuto So, did you either clamp some hosing somewhere or will antifreeze just not pour out the open ends of where you disconnected from as they appear to be high enough that most fluid will have settled elsewhere at a lower point?
@@TheAgentAaron great question! I didn't clamp anything. A little bit of antifreeze will come out, but if you're quick, it will be minimal. It's also why I bled it from the lines at the engine and not at the firewall, as it sits higher, so less issues with gravity bleeding being an issue. I didn't have to clamp anything otherwise
@@NexusAuto Great info to know for the future. Thanks for this!
You can use a washing machine hose for that type of fitting...double female
Ah good point, I didn't think of that. Great tip, thanks
Thank you. Great vid.
No problem at all. Glad it helped out.
What does that strut bar do that you added?
It helps stiffen the suspension, especially when cornering. It makes the car more rigid. It's a great upgrade, if you can find one.
Hello mate.i got mercedes a class a170...mine blow air but dont come warm air..what i can do?all works before to i go in holliday,when i comeback give low warm air,but now it stop give warn air inside the cabin..
Hard to say without being there, but there is only a few possible causes.
First, does your car get to normal operating temperatures? Or does it run very cool?
When you put the air on, do you get cold air and no warm air, or no air at all?
When you try the different fan speeds, do you hear the blower motor going slower and faster?
Does your a class have dual passenger heating? If so, do you get different temps from the passenger and driver sides?
These questions can help narrow down a lot
cold air working,but dont workign hot air...car workign perfectly,temperatures are fine..nothing changed...just ho heating inside..last january i was in holliday(Christmas holliday)for 2 weeks,after i coemback in Uk home..before to i go to holliday heating works perfectly,after i comeback works but verry slow..and now dont work ...when i turn on heating in the car on warm air come cold air not warm air...
@@TheRazvancristian so as mentioned before, it is hard to say 100% what the problem is without testing the car, but based on the information provided, it does sound like Heater Core failure. Either the heater core has gone bad, air is trapped in the core, or it is clogged. It could be other things too, like the heater controls do not recognize when you tell the car to heat up, but that is less likely. Still, all these things should be looked at. If your car came to my shop, I would probably check the heater core first.
So I have a 2006 grand prix and I'm sure the dex cool is sludge at this point
Would it be a good Idea to coolant flush the entire system and go to the green coolant or just stay with dex cool
It is absolutely the best idea to do a complete flush on the system. As for using traditional green or back to dexcool, it is up to you. I have seen valid arguments for both. Green does not last as long as Dex, but does not sludge up as bad. You can go longer with Dex, but run the risk of sludge build up. I am still currently running Dex, but know people who have switched to Green. Your call
@@NexusAuto Update : Me and a co worker managed to flush out the coolant and heating core
I must admit the cover is a pain in the ass so we just cut it off and pulled off the larger hose , flushed out the heating core AND golly the coolant came out nearly a blackish Red color .
Got about 97% of the Dex coolant and buildup out , the 3% being the little buildup inside the larger hose .
Swapped to green to be on the safe side and its running ALOT better and blowing cold air and hot air when needed .
Thank you for the video !
Edit : didn't realize the 3800 series engine was really a reliable version
@@ThaProd1gy Awesome news! Sounds like your car definitely needed that flush! Good move on switching to the green too...less sludge build up in the long run! Thanks for letting me know everything went well. One less thing to worry about now LOL
@@NexusAuto The most challenging thing about the flush was the cover just under the front area. After realizing one of the bolts was stripped due to old age
We just hacksawed the plastic off .
If that helps anyone who also struggles with that darn cover
Would this help my 04 Grand Prix? Warm air comes out only instead of hot air when the vehicle is at operating temperature.
It would for sure. There can be a few causes to only getting warm air from the heating system, but a clogged heater core is a very common cause. At the very least, it is worth doing just to clean it out.
My car runs at normal temps but the heat doesn’t work one hose from the heater core is cold any ideas?
Sounds like this video is the ticket. I'm not there so can't tell you 100%, but if your heat is one, and both hoses are not hot, then either you have air in the core or it is clogged. A flush is a good first step to see if you can get it going
Hey question?
Do you need to flush out the whole system before doing this??
You don't have to. I didn't in this video, and it worked no problem. Just have to make sure to burp the system at the end. However, if you have the time and resources, it would be a good time to do it anyways.
Honda pilot 2006 my friend I have no heat barely any. I flushed my heater core, my engine and radiator and changed my thermostat, then I filled it with blue anti freeze 1st day I had heat, 2nd day no heat barley any, please any idea.
hmmm, this is a trickier one, as there could be a few things that is causing this.
1. When you flushed the system, did a lot of gunk come out? Was it really clogged?
2. When you say flushed, did you just drain the old fluid and put new fluid in, or did you do something like I did in this video?
3. How is the engine temperature? Does it stay too cool or too hot?
Off the top of my head, it sounds like either a bad thermostat, bad water pump, or clogged heater core, but it can be a few other things. Those questions above may help narrow it down.
Any advice on doin this and it still over heats? Not as fast and as bad but it’s still happening a little bit
If the car is overheating, I would start looking at other things...
1. check and make sure the radiator fans are coming on. idle the car (or rev to 2500 rpm) and wait for the car to warm up. make sure the fans turn on.
2. Check or replace thermostat
3. Flush coolant. Dexcool sludges up pretty bad.
4. Look into water pump.
I would start with the above. Hope that helps a bit.
What brand of antifreeze do you use?
For this job, I used Prestone Dexcool 50/50 Premixed
Hey brother I love the video! You explain everything and showed everything how it's done. 10 out of 10 . Soon I want to make videos on HOW TO with my Pontiac Grand Prix GXP . But love the video I will subscribe and like!
That's awesome news, glad to hear the video was helpful. Hope you get to make How To Videos as well. Nothing wrong with that. Appreciate the like and sub...thank you!
Hi there, need your advice. I had the cooling system flush including heater core done at the dealer. The heater core was completely clogged. The previous owner never changed the dexcool in the 12 years they had it. Its on 07 GP base. Since then I have replaced the coolant bypass elbows, thermostat, bled the system and the temperature gauge still goes over the halfway mark, and the trans temp has been as high as 220 degrees. We got a code for cooling fan 2, and it was dead. We just replaced and no change but no more check engine light or code however symptoms still happening. I can't find any proper instructions on how to change the coolant temp sensor. Looks terrible to replace. Any advice?
Unfortunately, there is a few things that can go wrong here, so it is hard to really say. Have you checked the fan relays? You may have already, but just thought I would mention it.
Just to clarify, you changed the fan, and now there is no check engine light or code anymore...what is cooling fan 2 doing? Is it still dead?
I don't have a video on the coolant temperature sensor, but I can tell you it is located on top of the engine, under the cover (if you still have the cover). It is at the front, near the intake manifold, slightly to the right. It is sometimes a blue and white plug. Hope that helps with locating it.
@@NexusAuto Hi thanks for the reply. Yes we checked the fan relays. We changed the fan and don't see fan 2 turning on just fan 1. No light or code. I know where the coolant temp sensor is under the thermostat housing, it looks extremely difficult to do because of the location. The engine mount bracket and the exhaust manifold heat shield are in the way. Very tight space, terrible location. Praying that the sensor is not communicating properly to trigger the fan.
Do you think we should change the water pump?
@@paulfarber701 hopefully it is the sending unit. Altbough, to be honest, it sounds like an electrical issue, like a bad wire or connector.
For the water pump, I would say to inspect the pulley with the car running. If you see it wobbling, seizing, or moving erratically, or if you hear any noise, definitely change it.
@@NexusAuto thank you. I will have the electrical connection checked
When you realized you had the wrong fitting, you could use a laundry washer hose (double female ends) to connect your garden hose to your fitting.
Very true, good point and great tip. Thanks for taking the time to respond!
Love your video, thank you!
Question, Is the heater core connected to the engine coolant system or is it completely separate? If connected do you recommend an engine coolant flush simultaneously?
Very good question. The heater system is part of the cooling system. If you have not done a coolant system flush in a while, it would definitely be a good idea. If that is the case, you would do THIS flush first, to clear out the heater core, then put everything back to together like in the video, then flush the entire coolant. Even knowing you will re-flush the coolant, it is very important to follow this video, even putting in fresh coolant just to dump it again, as if you don't, you can get air in the heater core and do more damage vs good. Other than that advisement, you can definitely flush the coolant out too!
@@NexusAuto thanks for your help, you helped tons! I ended up having to bypass the heater core on my 06 Grand Prix due to the core leaking. I've seen a few videos of people changing the heater core. My goodness that thing is in a tight spot
@@cjkeeney7293 Yeah it is! It is definitely a pain. Sucks with the core leaking, but glad to hear the video and the info was helpful. Hopefully you get that core fixed and regain your heating function!
Hey! Thanks for all your 05 GP videos. They have been very helpful. Wondered if you might have an idea about an odd problem I've had. Replaced my thermostat about 6 weeks ago and there's been a slow leak of coolant around the housing for the thermostat. I used the gasket originally but it was hemorrhaging fluid and causing the engine to read overheat. Took the gasket off and managed to stop the big leak. Car reads normal temps but in the MN winter the air getting into my system is affecting my heat. Anything I missed in reinstalling the housing?
No problem at all! Happy to hear the videos are helpful.
How is the mating surfaces for the thermostat? Even if a new gasket is installed, if there is even a little bit of the old gasket left over around the housing, it can cause leaks to get out or air to get in. I would start there. If not, you may need to have a pressure test done to see where the air is getting in from.
I have my question my center console light don't work at all. I replaced it and everything and it still don't work. What should I do.
Hi Joe. What part of the center console lights is not working? The heater controls, DIC, traction light, etc? Or is everything not working?
@@NexusAuto it's just the console light, where the gear stick is at everything else works but that part.
Hmmm. I would have to take a look at the wiring for that light and see what could be the issue. Unfortunately, I'm not on site, and won't be for a few days. I'll have to check when I get back
@@NexusAuto I just posted a video so you can see the wiring.
@@kingavery8918 hi Joe...thanks for the video. I didn't get a chance to pull mine apart yet, so it was a great refresher.
First, I'm digging the look of your GP. Nice seat covers and blue lights! You should do a daytime and night walk-around videos sometime.
I checked the fuse box. There is no separate fuse for the shift console, so if the other interior lights works, then it's not the fuse.
I know this may sound crazy, but that's an LED, right? Did you try turning the bulb? 194 LEDs are polar sensitive, so they work when plugged in one way, but not the other.
If it still doesn't work, try a regular bulb, if you have one. That will let you know if there is any power at all.
If it still doesn't work, then the only thing to try is a voltmeter. Check and see if you have power at the socket, then at that plug about half a foot down from shift bulb, and keep moving further back until you find it. It is likely a broken wire somewhere. Electrical always drives me nuts...many times it's a broken wire in some random, unexplainable place lol
How much coolant did you have to add at the end?
To be honest, I did not measure how much I used exactly. But I would estimate between charging the heater core, and adding to the radiator, it was between 2 and 3 quarts/litres.
Thanks again!. Very helpful.
No problem! Thanks for watching
Very good, thanks
No problem at all! Thanks for watching;
@@NexusAuto there was a lot of gooey sligish stuff that came out it there. Once cleaned heater is so hot that it feels like summer.
@@tiggermix awesome...it gets so clogged up. Looks like you really cleaned it up. Perfect timing for the heater too. I would recommend getting the coolant flushed at some point as well. When the heater core gets sludged up like that, the rest of the system may be as well. Other than that, glad you have your heat back, and the vid helped out for sure. :)
Do you have a video on how to completely flush the whole system for the 04-07 GP?
@@tiggermix unfortunately, I don't have one at this time. The last flush I did was my pre-RUclips days. It is due for another, but it won't be until next year, sad to say. But I do plan to have one then.
What's the length on those clear hoses?
Really, just make them as long as you need to work comfortably. I didn't measure directly, so not 100% sure. But I would think 3-4 feet each line should be sufficient
What headlights??
Headlights?
excelent work especially as one hand was holding your camera. I have big chubby fingers so I do not know how it will turn out. It looks fiddlely removing and replacing the hoses
Thanks. I appreciate this comment too!
What size is that hose you using.
If I remember correctly, it was 5/8 hose.
I have been having problems with my heat not coming on sometimes and when it does it blows out room temperature or colder. Would you suggest me to flush it?
Possibly, but what you're describing can be a few issues, and you would need to determine the issue first. So my first questions are 1. Is the car temp heating up, even when no hot air is coming out the vents? 2. Are you noticing the issues on different settings within the heater controls?
Nexus Auto there are no differences when I switch the controls and I can hear the switch changing when I turn it. The temp works normal and I changed the thermostat. Heat also comes through the vents after traveling for a while but I'm not sure if that's coming off the motor or not.
Ok so there is still a couple of things that can cause that, but it sounds like the heater core is clogged. If the engine is heating ok, then it won't be a heating issue. If the fan turns on and changes speeds when you change the knob settings, then it wouldn't be a blower motor problem either. So this only leaves a few things. i would recommend flushing out the heater core (this vid for sure :) ). Unfortunately, the coolant GM uses (Dexcool) tends to become think and clay like, and clogs all sorts of things. My heater core was clear only because I maintain it. The first time I did it, it looked like mud coming out. I would say to try that first and let me know how it goes
Nexus Auto Ok I'm going to work on it today and I'll let you know how it went. Thank you.
La-Kisha Nance-Houston did it work? Im going to try to do mine tomorrow.
Any recommendations for good mods for v6 model prix?
Ohh...that is so hard to answer. It all depends on what you're looking for and what you want. Some people want cosmetics, some what performance, and some want both (I am in this crowd). Some just want exterior design, some what a stock looking car that is a sleeper.
Generally speaking, when talking performance, I always recommend the big 3 first...tires, brakes, and suspension. I always start with this because, no matter how much power you put in, if you cant connect that power to the ground, then it's money wasted.
Aside from that, it all depends on what you're looking for.
@@NexusAuto All those mods are done already on my car. I also changed all fluids in my car as well, plus new sway bars; new struts; new breaks, etc
@@XxMalabooo nice, you've been busy on your car. Awesome.
Ok, so depending on your skill level, a good upgrade is a shift kit. it is relatively easy to install (but can seem scary at first for some), but it sucks if you just did your transmission fluid. Still, it was one of my favorite upgrades and made such a difference in how the car shifts. And considering the delicate nature of these transmissions, if installed correctly, they actually help prolong the life of the transmission (unless you beat the hell out of your car lol).
There is are other things, like the big 3 of combustion...air, fuel and spark. But the biggest mistake people make is they upgrade these things (air intake, plugs ,wires, fuel injectors, fuel pump, throttle body, etc) but do not get a tune for their car. So the car barely utilizes these changes. If you approach these, make sure you get a tune for your car that can make the most of these mods.
And then from here, it just goes up. In performance, and cost lol
@@NexusAuto just curious; If I took a prix super charger from the junk yard; how hard do you think it would be to convert my v6 base? Any video resources you may have on that?
@@XxMalabooo good question. I did look into this in the past, and plan to supercharge mine at some point in the far future, but there some things to know.
First, I have no video resources on it. I'm sure there has to be some out there, but I haven't looked in a while, and when I did, there wasn't any. That was a while ago though lol.
Second, to answer the question, yep, it can be done. But be warned, it's not easy. Aside from the Supercharger, A LOT has to be changed to get it to work. The cylinder heads, throttle body, injectors and rails, MAP sensor and wiring, and a bunch of other stuff. And you need a custom ECM with programming for the Supercharger. If none of this is done, the car will run like complete garbage. And let's not forget the non supercharged engine only has the standard 4t65e transmission, not the 4t65eHD version. So that needs upgraded.
Third thing is something a lot of people don't know or consider. The N/A 3800 runs a higher compression ratio vs the 3800SC. The good news is you'll actually make more power than a stock 3800SC. The bad news is something is likely to go kaboom once you put the power down a few times. The tune can potentially help with this though, if done correctly.
I know...bummer, right? Although it's expensive, the best bet is the Supercharger kit from zzp performance. It's a lot of work, but accounts for everything, including the higher compression (but not the transmission, that still should be upgraded too).
Great video. Thanks.
No problem at all! Glad the video helped.
What are the symptoms of heater core?
Very little to no heat in the car, even with the fans on at full blast. The heater core takes the hot coolant and uses it to warm the air for the heater, and that is the only thing it really affects. Depending on the car, it fan also reduce air flow to the vents, but that's not every car.
I have a Grand Prix it’s doing that be I don’t know if it’s the head gasket or if it this
@@armandomendoza1289 ok sounds good. are you getting any white smoke out of exhaust and coolant in the engine oil(it would look milky white)? If so, then it's not likely to be the head gasket at all. I would start off by flushing the heater core and see what comes out first, and see if that fixes the issue.
However, if you have white smoke or milky oil, you may want to approach the head gasket first.
It's always hard to say remotely, but this is the best general way to approach it, I think
Did it yesterday and it started to work ! But then I had a issue this morning the rpms are bouncing up and down on idle and making a wired noise
@@armandomendoza1289 hmmm, that is unusual. Is that issue still occuring? Did a check engine light come on? The heater core and rpms should not be directly related like that.
how long are the clear flush hoses
I didn't do exact measurements. I kind of just measured from the firewall to where I need it to be, and cut. But I would say around 3 1/2 ft
I'm going to try this on the grand am I bought. See if that fixes the issue.
Awesome, give it a go. I had a few people try this with Grand Ams with great success. Good luck!
Solid video, little off-topic question.. I have an 08 GP and my left exhaust is rusting off to the point of sagging a lot. Do you think I'd be better off just ripping it off and getting someone to weld a straight pipe on or pay for the actual replacement? (which from what I heard is very expensive even just for one side).
friggin dan thanks. To answer your question, depends on what you're looking. Straight pipe will be way cheaper, but will be pretty damn loud. You're right, the factory exhaust is expensive and in some cases hard to find, depending on what's rusted. But if you still want a quieter factory sound, it is the way to go. Another alternative is to get an aftermarket muffler. They don't last quite as long as the OEM muffler, but they're really cheap. Like around $50-ish. That may be an option too
Thanks for the advice! Cheaper is better for me and now that the car is 10 years old a lot of problems are starting to crop up so I'm not sure how long she has left in her anyway. Transmission is starting to give me problems. Aftermarket might be the way I go!
No problem. Mufflers rusting out and hanging are a somewhat common problem...so are transmission issues. The 3800 engines will run a good while, but the transmissions need to be babied to even consider lasting. I do a pan-drop filter change constantly and try to be as easy as possible with it. If you haven't yet done it yet, try do a pan-drop filter change.
I think I might do that. Thinking I'll need to replace my plugs as well - sometimes I get misfires at 60kph and I've noticed I've lost some power. Love the grand prix but god damn the problems with these things. Had my ECM crack 8 months ago and had to replace that - wasn't cheap. I've seen your vid on changing the plugs but don't have the tools myself. If you were closer to me (London, Ontario) I'd pay you to do it all.
Yeah when these issues start popping up, they really come all at once. Hopefully after you've completed these last few things, you'll be good for a while. It's too bad your not closer too, then I would have definitely brought your car in. Love the Grand Prix too. There is so many awesome things about them, but they have their annoyances too. Did you try cleaning the throttle body as well? Very cheap and easy job, and its a very common problem for Grand Prixs(and other GM Fly-By-Wire throttle bodys as well)
I did all that but heater still not working!
You can have other issues. Anything from an electrical issue (the car not telling the heat to turn on), to an mechanical issue like a radiator or water pump.
How's the temp gauge on the car? Does it go up with the car is warmed up? Does it stay around the middle, or is too low or high?
When you feel the output hose on the heater core (carefully), one should be hotter, and one cooler. Do you notice this?
This will give you an idea of what's going on
@@NexusAuto temperature stays in the Middle but the both hoses stay cold . Took a road trip this pass week about 300 miles and the car work great but no heat !any ideas what to check next !
Check water pump is good and radiator was replace last year!
@jesusaguilar8923 ok, so for the engine itself, that all sounds good. Good pump, rad, and car temp is where it should be. If both lines are cold, then there isn't any flow there at all. Sounds like there is a blockage, but maybe in the inlet hose or even when the hoses hook up to the block. There could also be air in the system that is preventing the flow to the core, but if you burp the system like in the video, that should be good. And I assume that when you hooked up the flush, water came out the other side no problem?
If so, then my guess is to check the 2 hoses themselves for blockages, and if not, take the hoses off the engine block and check in there
@@NexusAuto yes very little water came out , thank you I will try that .
Have you ever removed the knock sensors when doing a complete coolant system flush?
I have actually never performed a coolant flush on my GP, and so I never removed the knock sensors. I know if you want a full flush, the need to be removed. Unfortunately, I have not done it...yet.
My grand prix is running hot. I flush the radiator and got a new thermostat also and bleed out the air in system but when I turn my heat off the temperature go up but dont overheat and the top upper radiator hose is hard . When my engine down I check the radiator and the antifreeze is low and my overflow tank is fill. Could my radiator be clogged or do I have a blown head gasket. I didn't flush out my heater core. I dont know what to do. I price a new radiator 130 dollar which I have the money for it but I dont want to buy if my head gasket is blown
Hmmm, this is a tricky one as there can be a few causes. The first thing that does run through my mind is a clog or faulty water pump. But let's break down a few things you can try, and a few points to mention.
1. How high does the temperature go up with the heat off? does it go to the middle, 75%, etc?
2. If the overflow tank was empty or low before, but full afterwards, that could be a safety mechanism kicking in to dump the hot fluid from the rad to the overflow tank to cool.
3. To check the head gasket, first look around for any coolant around the engine. Pull the dipstick for the oil and check it as well. If it is milky, that is a problem. I dont think this is a blown head gasket however (could be wrong, but not the first thing I would go to)
4. I dont think the heater core is the issue, since the engine heats up with the heat off.
5. what happens if you run the heat at full blast? does the engine stay cooler?
6. It could be the rad fan. Run the car from cool and let it warm up (keep an eye on it so it does not overheat). When it reaches about half way, the fan should kick in (it may be obvious, but keep hands and tools away from the engine & fan when it is running). See if the fan is even kicking in.
7. Assuming the fan is working ok, you should check the water pump. To do a basic check if the water pump is working, check the lower hose when the fan kicks in CAREFULLY. You should feel that hose get pretty hot as it dumps the hot coolant into the rad.
This should hopefully give you some good starting points to work with. Thanks for watching!
I have a 91 dodge durango 5.2 and the heater is blowing out cold air. I did a heat core flush and it's still blowing cold air. What else could be the problem and also, I put new anti freeze in.
Hello. There could be a few causes, but my first question is. 91 Durango? I thought the Durango started in the last 90s. Can you confirm if this is maybe an 01?
With that, there could be other things in play. How is the car heating up? Is it running too cool, or take a very long time to warm up?
I'm sorry, it's a 1999 durango. The truck is running cool and alittle time to warm up. After flushing the heater core, i drove it for about 4 miles and it was still cold air coming out.
No problem at all. i just wanted to make sure I was looking at the right vehicle, just in case.
Sounds like it could be a few things here. If the Durango is taking too long to warm up, then the heater core may not be warming up enough to generate enough heat for the vehicle. So that is one potential issue. One good test (but it can be dangerous, so please exercise caution) it so turn on the truck and run it at idle for a few minutes with the heat off. Once warmed up, run the heater at full blast for a couple of minutes. Once running, get to the inlet and outlet hoses for the heater core and feel them both. They should both be hot to the touch. Again, be careful for any mechanical components in motion and for the heat of the hoses themselves. HOT!!
If the hoses are both hot, then hot coolant is flowing through no problem and the issue likely lies in the heater core itself, or with the controls on the center console. That is something that gets overlooked often. If you turn it from cool to heat, but no heat comes through, it could have a problem with the switches themselves. While I dont have extensive experience with the older Durangos, I do not recall hearing about the switches failing often, but it can happen.
However, if one hose is hot, and the other is significantly cooler, then the flush may not have been successful enough, or the heater core could be failing.
If neither hose is hot at all, then you likely have a blockage somewhere in the block near the inlet hose, the water pump may not be pushing coolant quick enough through the block of the engine, the thermostat make me stuck open, or the car is generally running too cool.
Hope this helps. If any other questions, give me a shout.
@@NexusAuto those the car have too be hot or cold to try this?
@@gustavosaavedra1151 the car should be cold. Ideally, it wouldn't hurt to warm it slightly, but it is hard to gauge the heat of coolant and it can burn significantly. So the safest way is to do it when cold.
I'm having a issue on figuring out which one is my outlet and inlet hoes on my 2005 grand am. It's a V6 3400
Sorry, I tried to get the info on which is the inlet and outlet. It would *seem* that the hose closest to the water pump to the heater core is the outlet hose, but I couldn't get 100% confirmation.
The one that gets warm first is the inlet.
is this the same in an 02' grand am gt?
The concepts are generally the same, but the location of the heater core and hookups are slightly different. If I remember, the heater core is a bit more central against the firewall...could be wrong. But otherwise, the process is more or less the same
Where did you get your supplies from for this video I live in Canada as well great video look forward to more of your gp content
Most parts stores should have them. Since you're in Canada(hello eh lol), you can get everything from the same place I did, if the store is in your area. Canadian Tire! :) Thanks for watching too!. More content coming.
You the man thank you
Thanks! Glad it helped out!
What are all the items i need to perform this flush
The video lists everything you need, around the 6:00 mark.
Show off of what I seen you build here I built me a unit so I can hook you there a hose to or use are with by making adapter for the unit I made and I have a on off switch in line for the water bought all the stuff and a bag and a blow tool from harbor freight
Nice! Sounds like you built a good set up! Awesome
I’d say video is fine and good also quality is good but the car I hate my brother has one a 04 so many electrical problems that really shouldn’t exist really and it is a problem hate it
Also all the expensive parts break first on the car nothing cheap breaks only cheap think that broke but well destroy your engine if you don’t know good job gm is those stupid 90 elbows under the alternator dumps all your coolant because those go to the heater core so free flow from the water pump…. Stupid car
@@photondebuger45 Damn, sorry to hear. Generally speaking, this should not be the case...sounds like your brother really got a lemon. Normally, the big issue is the transmission, and then a few other small things (mostly electrical, as you said), but looks like you guys had a bad run. Really sorry to hear that. Hopefully your brother can finally catch a break. Sucks having a money-pit car.
@@NexusAuto oh we are getting rid of that.... thing but yeah I forgot the transmission has it's hiccup with that too like it bucks real hard in first after that it's ok transmission has a whine when the engine is on and at speed so that thing isn't longed for this world either way
@@photondebuger45 Yeah, it sounds like you guys need to drop that car asap. That transmission definitely sounds like it is on the way out. Considering the issues you guys had, you are making the right choice, I think
2005 Grand Prix
Where can I buy the clear hoses at?
Lb Ut almost any parts store. If you're in Canada, I got it at Canadian Tire. If you're in the US, I believe places like Pep Boys and stuff have them. But that's the best I can tell you
I got mine from Lowe's
Thanks for the video, I think I have a leak in the core can I ask you what you think about products like stop leak or k seal. Am I just creating problems for later on. I am not proficient to change the core myself and we just do not have the cash to get it done by a mechanic which I have been told could be over £1000
No problem at all. Generally, I do not recommend those stop leaks. They are a bit unreliable, and if they do work, it may only end up being temporary. They dont really cause any more damage , but the do not mix well with Dexcool coolant, as it can accelerate the dexcool breakdown(a common problem) and it can clog the heater core. So depending on the year of Grand Prix you are using, I would avoid it is possible, since it is not a permanent solution. However, at the same time, if this is just a matter of buying some time until you can get the Core changed, then I would say go for it. Worse case scenario in a short term setting is it doesnt stop the leak. Just do use it as a potential permanent fix.
Thank You; I have heat again😎
Awesome news. And just in time for the cold weather to come in. Glad the video was helpful
Wonderful video, but you'd probably have better presentation if you prepped and double checked everything before running off and recording the video. It would look more professional and neat. I will say that I enjoyed this video very much however and I think it's quality, but you said yourself you'd be open to constructive criticism. C: I thank you for taking the time to upload this and hope to see more from you now that I'll have subbed.
I appreciate all feedback, and I thank you. This video was from 3 years ago, and after that mistake, I took more care in prep, exactly as you recommended. It was a simple mistake, but a crucial one. Thanks again, thanks for the sub for sure! and glad to hear the video was enjoyable. Will have more in the future for sure!
I'm sorry I noticed is your traction
Yep, good eye. At the time, i had a broken wire on the front wheel bearing, and it was tripping the traction control light (and the ABS light would be on as well). It has since been fixed.
@@NexusAuto thank you sir for your videos. I just done my throttle. It had all kinds of build up.
@@peterlona7835 No problem at all. I am glad to hear the videos are helpful. I bet the car will run much better now!
No
Gurpal thanks
Should only use distilled water
While I generally agree that distilled water is what should be in an active cooling system, since the car is not turned on in any way and the heater core is charged with fresh coolant afterwards, distilled water has little effect. There wont be any mineral deposits. Now, if the system was closed off with the water inside and the car turned on and allowed to warm up, that is a different story...
Hi I own the 2011 Toyota RAV 4 and the problem is in winter the driver's side air is hot but the passenger side is cool. can you help me. Thanks
This is a very tricky one, especially without actually being there. Is this a 'limited' model trim with dual climate control?
No brother its “base”model. one climate control
Do you think The dirty core may be the cause of the problem??
I dont think so. If the core was dirty, it would affect the heat of both sides. It sounds like something internal, maybe the blend vent or a device called Air Mix Damper Control Servo Motor Circuit. There is actually a few things that can go wrong to cause that on the single standard climate control system. Unfortunately, this is something that I would need to be there for to test.
What happens when you put on the AC? Do you still get hot air on driver side, cool on passenger?
Yes Absolutely driver side its very hot when ac is on but passenger side is completely cool .
Do you realize you said, "Uhhhhh" three hundred and seventy two times?
Uhhh yeah...so?
3:24 to skip the bullshit, your welcome
Oh, I don't know, talking about what is happening inside the heater core and safety with coolant seems pretty important to me. Maybe you know this stuff, or don't care, but a lot of people do. You are not the only one watching the video. To each their own. Take care.
11 minutes in and nothing has been done yet?!...#LessTalkingMoreDemonstratingPlease
This comes up from time to time, but for every person who says a video is too long, I get 10 who say they like the detail. There are people watching who like to learn or are first timers.
If I make a short video, then someone like you is happy, but people who want more details miss out.
If I make longer videos, everyone wins. Don't like the details? You can just scroll ahead.
#NuffSaid
Bro you talk too much. Just do the job
Hey Kirk. I will give the same answer I give to anyone who says this...you can't make a video that fits everyone. But here is the thing...if I make a short, quick video, those who want to learn miss out. However, if I make a longer, descriptive video, those who want to learn get the info, and those who don't care can skip to the parts these need, like you can, for example. This is the best way to get info to everyone.
Trust me, for every person who says I talk to much, there is 100 who appreciates the info as they are trying to learn, some for the first time.
I understand your feedback, and wish you well
You're waving your hands around too much
Sorry. Unfortunately, I talk with my hands. I always move them around.
Very thorough and detailed video, thank you and God bless you
No problem at all! Glad the video is helpful! Thanks for commenting and God bless!