I have been 3d printing for almost 3 years. watched plenty of videos on how to improve print quality and have never even heard of PID till I saw this video. Thank you!
I very rarely leave comments but oh my god thank you so much for the simple to follow video. My CR10 Smart has been fluctuating 10 degrees above and below temp for so long. I’d replaced every part imaginable but still had the issue. This sorted it out perfectly. Now only fluctuating at most 1 degree! 🙌
Solved my problem with false-positive thermal runaway problem! Thank you very much, great guide. For anyone who may have an issue with connecting their printer to the pronterface: go into your device manager and when you connect the printer to your computer, the new COM that appears is the COM of the printer. For me it didn't appear on the dropdown menu and I had to input COM manually in pronter.
Thank you for your video. I had to change the complete hot end on my Ender 3 Max Neo and this help so much. I was in tears watching others, but you made it very clear.
Thanks. Just finished PID tuning my printer using your video as guide. My hot end was fluctuating +/- 4 degrees after replacing my heatbreak. And now it's stable after PID tuning.
One think not mentioned If pronterface will not connect, be sure you do not have Cura or your slicer open it locks the comm port. Fantastic info and tutorial just like all your others Ricky! Your videos are of great help to many (I share them alot!)
Wow thank you so much for the very easy walk thru! I don't know why more of the videos on here can't be more like yours straight to the point and very simple and informative!
@@RickyImpey the sad thing is I've been printing for 3 years now but my ender 3 came out of the box pretty much perfect never had any issues. My ender 5 plus I just got recently has been nothing but headaches so I'm learning alot more things this time around.
Always making great content, and doing it in a way that makes projects feel more approachable from an average DIY perspective. Thanks for making it simple, but thorough!
I really appreciate this comment 👍 I believe everyone is capable of understanding all of this stuff if it's just presented correctly. I make it my mission to try and do this, glad I'm on the right track🙂
@@RickyImpey For those with higher levels of comprehension, there's droves of information available, but sometimes you want a simple 5 minute explanation, without all the fluff. Your level of explanation perfectly answers the question at hand, in a prompt and informative manner. I really appreciate the lack of common dramatization and editorialization content creators use to squeeze their metrics. Keep up the great work 😁👍
...And saved for referencing in the future. This solved my issue of my printer not able to make it to 220 on its own. It kept stalling around 210 and I would have to manually feather the temp up by 5 degrees.
Thank you again! I decided to finally comment after using your instructions several times. You get right to it, clear and concise. And thank for not swirling a fancy logo and unwanted preamble. Peace
Printer stopped heating up, replaced the heating nozzle, would start to print but then stopped spitting out filament but kept going like it was clogged, but obviously it wasn't. Ran my Anycubic Vyper step by step as Ricky said and it's printing like a charm again! I'm no computer savvy person either. Thank you Rick!
Thank you for this simple easy to follow and efective tutorial. My printer bed and nozle temperature was all over the place, on 230°C it was +-4°C after your tutorial it doesn't move at all entire print stays spot on, printing quality is way better. Thank you again.
Hi!I am new in 3d printing and your videos make me to understend better how printer works.You provide people an good quality content straith to the point.Keep the good job.
Every video I watch on this channel makes my prints better and better. Thanks for the tutorial, hopefully this will iron out some layer issues I've been having since changing hot ends! Thanks Ricky!
I seriously can not thank you enough. You explain these details so well. Im sure to some people, this type of coding and what not comes naturally, but it is like learning a foreign language to me.... thank you for breaking it down and simplifying it
Thank you so much for this video. You are producing content that people can actually use. Succinct and to the point. I've had the original Ender 3 and an Anycubic Kossel Linear delta and I've alway felt like I was stumbling around getting them dialed in. I just bought an Artillery Sidewinder X2 specifically because it was so quiet compared to the other 2. I am determined to get to know this printer in a methodical way and you are providing me with this information. The X2 has been a delight to use, it's provided me with excellent prints right out of the box but I've only run PLA and I want/need to run PETG as well as TPU.
Yes the X2 is a great machine. I'm glad you are enjoying it. I print PETG and TPU on mine all the time with standard Cura profiles. The only issues I've had are bed adhesion. I've recently added a PEI print surface which is great for the PETG but TPU can damage it without a barrier like a PVA based glue stick. My biggest tip for printing with PETG and TPU would be to dry it. Even if it is brand new, you will have a much easier time with filament that has been dried.
This is so informative thank you. Took apart original hotend on ender 3 v2 neo and afterwards it was temp swinging 228-232 so i took apart again and it was swinging 225-235 though i broke the thermistor but perfect after PID tune
I have a trick to bypass PID if I just can't get it to temperature in the winter time: I preheat the bed and nozzle to print temperature. I make sure the nozzle temperature is a few degrees higher. I then set the slicer to start the print when at the lower pre-defined nozzle temperature. As soon as the printer reaches temperature I initiate the print job. The print start homing immediately! Right after homing, I set the nozzle temps higher manually.
Thank you very much. This video was very helpful. I just replaced my stock hot end with a Dragonfly on my Ender 5 Plus, so I had to do PID tuning. Unfortunately the 5 Plus has a limited menu on the touchscreen so unlike full Marlin there is no PID tuning option in the menu. SO I had to do it with Pronterface, and this worked perfectly.
Great video. Clear and to the point, but I have a question. After replacing the thermistor and running the PID auto-tuning, the printer worked great for several small prints, so I went for a large, 2 day print. It seems to be holding very well at 200c, until after a full day, I'm noticing the temp swing pretty dramatically- suddenly drops to 190 and sinks to about @185 and goes back up and overshoots to @205 every few minutes. Thoughts as to why it starts after running well for hours?
you can also change the firmware for another that store the settings into the EPROM like Jyers o mriscoc pro firmware (and with many other features for the Ender3V2)
@@RickyImpey yea i emailed them for support just to be sure after watching your guide and i quote this is what support said "The code needs to be on the first line, before G28."
Great, simple but informative video. I knew, basically, what it was but you explained it in a way that makes me want to go ahead & do it, Especially on my Ender 3 Pro that is giving me troubles with the hotend. Probably need to change the thermistor first, though. Just sub'd, too.
I have a Ender 3 V2 neo I upgraded the firmware to pro it has a MPC setting for the hot end and it has a PID setting for the bed. Both Autotune. I stored the 200C and the MPC used that stored information when Tuning
awesome thanks for this. i sent the pid info but i didn't get an echo return.. any ideas on why this would happen? (update) ok it didn't give me the echo, but i did do another m503 and the return information confirmed the new PID information was there. thanks!
Cuando terminó el proceso de calcular el PID envío el comando M301 para el extrusor o el M304 para la cama caliente pero nunca se establecen los parámetros, solo dice "SENDING"
Great video. I've used this method several times and it seems to help every time for a while, but I just ran into a problem where I'm trying to run the PID and it beeped at me angrily when I tried sending the fan code and gave me thermal runaway messages, so I needed to disconnect. Now it will no longer recognize the codes. It gives me the info when I send the M503, but it doesn't activate the fan or respond when I try to move the extruder through the program. I haven't even made it the point of running the auto-tune. Suggestions?
Great video, thanks for that. However when I did this the m500 didn't make the new data stick. Is there any other option for doing that, or maybe something that I don't know that I need to do? I have an Anycubic Kobra standard.
🔧 If you're encountering the 'PID Autotune failed! Bad heater ID' error while using the command M303 E-1 S60 C5, make sure to check your Marlin firmware settings. Specifically, ensure that PIDTEMPBED is enabled. In Marlin 2.1.2.3, this setting is turned off by default. Enabling it should resolve the issue!
@Ricky Impey: Thanks to your to the point videos which I was lucky to find as I started my journey a couple of months ago, my printer has been impeccable from the day one. I am also lucky that I have bought an Ender 3 V2 - the exact same printer as yours. One question - is my stock firmware (Creality V1.0.5) is the same Marlin firmware as you showed in this video? Or do I need to change it before I can use your instructions? Thanks in advance.
Hi, there is no need to change your firmware if you use Pronterface. It should all work exactly as shown. There are some firmware versions that let you do a PID tune directly on the printer and some 3d printers that won't let Pronterface send commands like this but your Ender 3 V2 will be fine👍
Good evening I own an Ender 3V2 Neo and I would like to change the extruder and hotend for a direct drive, which would be the best model for my printer. I use PLA+ and PETG in general. Thank you for your help. P.S. My motherboard and firmware allow a temperature of 250°C maximum.
Interesting. When I follow your instructions I make it through the tuning process until it says PID Autotune finished but I never get the final values. What could that be? Any ideas? Thanks.
@@RickyImpey I'm not sure. I compiled new firmware after which I couldn't connect to my computer anymore at all. Then I installed a ch341 driver which gave me a new com port and since then everything works exactly the way you show it. It's a bit weird but I take the win.
Your videos are very helpful. My ender 3 neo recently started messing up. When I start a print it says extruder heating but never stabilizes so the print doesn't start. I did the pid auto tune thats in the configuration and seemed to fix it but started another print today and it did the same thing. Not sure what caused the issues. I only changed 3 things on the printer. I Installed a new cooling fan (factory replacment, nozzel but same size and upgraded my cura version. It is possible I forgot to save my configurations after doing the pid auto tune so I will try again this evening.
Before I start this PID tuning, would it solve the following error message on my Artillery Genius? "Error:Heating Failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0"
@@RickyImpey Hi Ricky, I tried the PID tuning and unfortunately it didn't work. I received the following message: on pronterface: SENDING:M303 E0 S220 C5 PID Autotune start Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0 Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0 Error:Printer halted. kill() called! Error:Printer halted. kill() called! So my newbie question is; are the heater and thermistor part of the same device? I'm about to buy a new extruder so I wanted to check with you first! Thanks again!
Help!! I ran PID tuning on my ender 3 neo but when I tested it I got a thermal runaway message. Note I didn't run the fan as I print mostly with the fan off.
Ricky, can't seem to get any response about this. Have a new S8Pro from Sunlu and have run the PID tests on Pronterface. At the end of the test, all 3 come back with no numbers, just says default. Any thoughts?
Hello! I'm having an issue where every time I try to connect my printer to pronterface, it just says "none" for the port connection and I tried restarting both my printer and computer already. Please help :(
Hello! Please help. I only have one port under my drop down which is not connecting COM3 only. Could not connect to COM3 at baudrate 115200 serial error:could not open port COM3
Great info... but I'm a bit confused. So when saving the new PID values, the M500 command saves the values to the printer, correct? Or to the SD card in the printer? Do I have to do "Store settings" in the printer's menu as well?
Hi, what printer do you have? The M500 command is in effect the same as the 'store settings' button. The printer and firmware will determine where the PID tune is saved.
Hello Ricky! Thank you for VERY GOOOD content. I have question for you. After watching this video , I made attempt to do PID on my cheap 3D printer (DIGGRO ALPHA-5). It's printing very well but problems with temperature starts over 200-210 deg. C. Every thing over that is problem... What I mean: I set 220 its always 214 to 216, and it is with every higher temp. I connect my 3D printer to computer, open Pronterface and connect to printer, now we have stairs... It don't respons on command M503... Do you have any advice to over come this? Have a good day!
Hi, I don't know that printer unfortunately. Some are configured in a way where they won't respond to g-code commands from Pronterface. This may be your problem if it won't respond.
Hi all, i didn't understand how to save the new settings for an Ender 3. You did say on the SD card but..for me it is very unclear how and where to do it. Any help will be very much appreciated. Thanks
Some machines save to the SD card, some save to the printers internal memory. You can't change where it saves without changing your firmware. I only mention it as some people have gone through the effort of tuning their settings only to change SD cards and wonder why their print results have changed.
Good afternoon- I followed your tutorial on and Ender 3 with Marlin firmware- it did work for the PID however your C5 command is invalid an even shows invalid in your video. Its quite misleading for people like me that depend on the experts like yourself. It doesn't like C5 and you would've seen that... I wonder if there's anther command to use to set the amount of cycles.. See 7:01 in your video- echo:Unknown command: "05"
When PID autotuning, my 3d printer started making a load beeping noise, and and error showed off and made me restart. I restarted and tried again but the same thing happened. Why is this happening and what can I do to fix this??
I tried to print with TPU on my ender 3 v2 neo and occasionally the temperature just drops to lower than printable temps, while when I try printing with PLA, everything is fine. Is this a problem I can fix with PID tuning?
Apologies if this has already been answered but with a ender 3 v2 running Octoprint, do I just enter the new pod settings in the start Gcode instead if I don’t use sdcard printing? Haven’t upgraded to mriscoc or Jyers yet as want to use stock for now. Thankyou
I recently purchased an all metal hotend for my ender 3. I'm assuming I should do a PID tune since I've changed a component. I have stock firmware, will I run into any issues using pronterface?
Thank you for the video. I got a result for the hot end, but not the bed. Any ideas? I've had a few printers and the Ender 5 is the worst that I've had.S ince I bought it, it's been nothing but problems. Thanks again. :)
@@RickyImpey hi there. My Aptos for the delay. I'm not very well. Nothing shows up at all. I bought it as one of those returned units. Had a few issues, but after replacing the lead screw and extruder, I got better prints. It's an ender 5 with 270w psu. Thank you for the reply. Kind Regards
Thanks Ricky! I bought an Ender 3 S1 PRO and PID values were very different and I noticed them from the main screen during printing. Now I have to check if this work. Do we need to do this for every material? I did it using 200° for PLA, but for PETG should be 220° I think right? If so, do we need to specify PID values on every print depending on the material to ensure temp accuracy?
Hi, if you wanted it to be 100% perfect then technically yes you would do it for the different temperatures before you print at that temperature but nobody is going to do that. If I were you I would do the PID tune at 210°C and use it for both materials. That's basically what I do.
I tried doing PID tune, but proterface says PID tune failed. It timed out. Please help what could be causing it to time out. It never reached temp got to about 150 and it stopped
I write down the steps to try them..but when you ender m303 e0 s220 c5 it comes with results:kp 23.36 ki 1.96 kd 69.74 and in the next step with m301 you put diffent values..22.05 despite 23.36 for p value 1.90 despite of 1.96 and 64.06 despite of 69.74 for d value?why?is there something that i misunderstood?
Which printer do you have and what firmware? Generally, the PID tune will be saved to the EEPROM on the mainboard but some machines save to the SD card instead. If you have one that saves to the SD (Ender 3v2 on stock firmware) then after formatting, the printer will create a new EEPROM file but you would need to re-do any changes you have made like a PID tune.
@@RickyImpey I have an Ender 3v2 neo, purchased a few months ago, not sure what firmware. I did the PID tune and my temps are staying much more consistent. There is definitely a learning curve to 3d printing, but thanks to videos like yours I am getting the hang of it.
Would you do Heat Tower print before or after running PID tune? I'm asking because on the one hand the PID Tune requires to type in desired temperature which can be found by printing a Heat Tower however, printing a Heat Tower before PID tuning might give the "wrong result" ?
I would PID tune first. If you mainly print PLA use 200°C, PETG 240°C etc. 10° either way won't make much difference and you can always do it again at a later date if you see any fluctuation or you end up printing at a drastically different temperature. If I PID tune at PLA temps, I don't do another PID tune before I print PETG for the odd print, even though it needs much higher temps.
Hi Rick. I am using the latest Mrisco firmware and when I try the autotune via Pronterface I get an error message saying "PID Autotune failed! Bad heater id". Do you or anyone reading this have any ideas please on why this would be happening? David
Awesome video! A few questions however. 1) How much is the bed and nozzle temps allowed to fluctuate while printing? 2) How many cycles should the tune be? The “C” value should be what? The higher, the better? I did a PID tune on both bed and nozzle. But they fluctuate +/- 2 degrees. That acceptable? Normal?
A couple of degrees is fine. If you want to find out, run a test print and manually change the temperature in each direction until you see a difference. Then you will have a range that you can work within. A temperature tower effectively does the same thing. It does depend on the filament so there is no definitive answer. I tend to go for between 5-10 cycles on a PID tune.
I have been 3d printing for almost 3 years. watched plenty of videos on how to improve print quality and have never even heard of PID till I saw this video. Thank you!
Hope it helped improve your machine and print quality👍
Same!
Simple and straight to the point, no annoying music or off topic stuff. Love your videos, keep up good work.
I very rarely leave comments but oh my god thank you so much for the simple to follow video. My CR10 Smart has been fluctuating 10 degrees above and below temp for so long. I’d replaced every part imaginable but still had the issue. This sorted it out perfectly. Now only fluctuating at most 1 degree! 🙌
Solved my problem with false-positive thermal runaway problem! Thank you very much, great guide. For anyone who may have an issue with connecting their printer to the pronterface: go into your device manager and when you connect the printer to your computer, the new COM that appears is the COM of the printer. For me it didn't appear on the dropdown menu and I had to input COM manually in pronter.
Thank you for your video. I had to change the complete hot end on my Ender 3 Max Neo and this help so much. I was in tears watching others, but you made it very clear.
No ads, straight to the point, engaging and good analogy, clearly explained. TY
Thanks. Just finished PID tuning my printer using your video as guide. My hot end was fluctuating +/- 4 degrees after replacing my heatbreak. And now it's stable after PID tuning.
One think not mentioned If pronterface will not connect, be sure you do not have Cura or your slicer open it locks the comm port. Fantastic info and tutorial just like all your others Ricky! Your videos are of great help to many (I share them alot!)
Good tip👍 Thanks for the comment and for sharing the videos. It all helps.
Wow thank you so much for the very easy walk thru! I don't know why more of the videos on here can't be more like yours straight to the point and very simple and informative!
Thanks for the comment Paul. I feel the same way. I try to make the videos I needed when I was starting 👍
@@RickyImpey the sad thing is I've been printing for 3 years now but my ender 3 came out of the box pretty much perfect never had any issues. My ender 5 plus I just got recently has been nothing but headaches so I'm learning alot more things this time around.
Always making great content, and doing it in a way that makes projects feel more approachable from an average DIY perspective. Thanks for making it simple, but thorough!
I really appreciate this comment 👍 I believe everyone is capable of understanding all of this stuff if it's just presented correctly. I make it my mission to try and do this, glad I'm on the right track🙂
@@RickyImpey For those with higher levels of comprehension, there's droves of information available, but sometimes you want a simple 5 minute explanation, without all the fluff. Your level of explanation perfectly answers the question at hand, in a prompt and informative manner. I really appreciate the lack of common dramatization and editorialization content creators use to squeeze their metrics. Keep up the great work 😁👍
...And saved for referencing in the future. This solved my issue of my printer not able to make it to 220 on its own. It kept stalling around 210 and I would have to manually feather the temp up by 5 degrees.
Awesome. I had no idea to do this, now I'm already finished in 10 minutes. Thank you.
Thank you again! I decided to finally comment after using your instructions several times. You get right to it, clear and concise. And thank for not swirling a fancy logo and unwanted preamble. Peace
For essential maintenance and good ideas you have become my first port of call. Excellent stuff.
Great to hear!
Printer stopped heating up, replaced the heating nozzle, would start to print but then stopped spitting out filament but kept going like it was clogged, but obviously it wasn't. Ran my Anycubic Vyper step by step as Ricky said and it's printing like a charm again! I'm no computer savvy person either. Thank you Rick!
I had an issue with ender 3 pro (Heating failed : E1 Printer halted) since I followed your instructions and it’s working again. Thank you very much
Thank you for this simple easy to follow and efective tutorial. My printer bed and nozle temperature was all over the place, on 230°C it was +-4°C after your tutorial it doesn't move at all entire print stays spot on, printing quality is way better. Thank you again.
Awesome, thanks for letting me know how it helped you. Glad you saw an improvement 👍
Thank you so much, tried contacting a support company and they couldn't explain to me in an hour, what you did in 8 minutes.
Hi!I am new in 3d printing and your videos make me to understend better how printer works.You provide people an good quality content straith to the point.Keep the good job.
Great to hear, thanks👍
Love the driver bit you included, you didn't need to go that extra mile but it was creative and delivered the point perfectly.
Every video I watch on this channel makes my prints better and better. Thanks for the tutorial, hopefully this will iron out some layer issues I've been having since changing hot ends! Thanks Ricky!
Great to hear, thanks for the comment 👍
You save my prints and reduce my headache, very detailed and easy to understand!!
I love CHEP. Your video is right up there with his, if not better.
I seriously can not thank you enough. You explain these details so well. Im sure to some people, this type of coding and what not comes naturally, but it is like learning a foreign language to me.... thank you for breaking it down and simplifying it
Very complete tutorial, currently doing on my printer. thanks!
Clear, concise and easily understandable. Thank you!
Late to the game but you got grade a info that's easily digestible. A+ my friend.
Just updated my Anet ET4pro to Marlin, this helped. Thanks
Thank you so much for this video. You are producing content that people can actually use. Succinct and to the point. I've had the original Ender 3 and an Anycubic Kossel Linear delta and I've alway felt like I was stumbling around getting them dialed in. I just bought an Artillery Sidewinder X2 specifically because it was so quiet compared to the other 2. I am determined to get to know this printer in a methodical way and you are providing me with this information. The X2 has been a delight to use, it's provided me with excellent prints right out of the box but I've only run PLA and I want/need to run PETG as well as TPU.
Yes the X2 is a great machine. I'm glad you are enjoying it. I print PETG and TPU on mine all the time with standard Cura profiles. The only issues I've had are bed adhesion. I've recently added a PEI print surface which is great for the PETG but TPU can damage it without a barrier like a PVA based glue stick. My biggest tip for printing with PETG and TPU would be to dry it. Even if it is brand new, you will have a much easier time with filament that has been dried.
Clear and straight to the point. Thanks a lot for this video!
This is so informative thank you. Took apart original hotend on ender 3 v2 neo and afterwards it was temp swinging 228-232 so i took apart again and it was swinging 225-235 though i broke the thermistor but perfect after PID tune
Thanks so much this computer illiterate person was able to get it done in a few minutes. You are a great teacher
Thank you for the comment Vincent. You are very kind👍
Have to give you a sub and thumbs up. Dude went the whole way to explain this by using a car.
I have a trick to bypass PID if I just can't get it to temperature in the winter time:
I preheat the bed and nozzle to print temperature.
I make sure the nozzle temperature is a few degrees higher.
I then set the slicer to start the print when at the lower pre-defined nozzle temperature.
As soon as the printer reaches temperature I initiate the print job.
The print start homing immediately!
Right after homing, I set the nozzle temps higher manually.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. Sending a tip to buy you coffee or a pint. Oh, and nice work on the driving analogy footage😆
I bet even my grandma could understand your videos! Thank you!
Awesome, that's the idea👍
Thank you very much. This video was very helpful. I just replaced my stock hot end with a Dragonfly on my Ender 5 Plus, so I had to do PID tuning. Unfortunately the 5 Plus has a limited menu on the touchscreen so unlike full Marlin there is no PID tuning option in the menu. SO I had to do it with Pronterface, and this worked perfectly.
Excellent, glad to hear this video helped, thanks for taking the time to comment 👍
Great video. Clear and to the point, but I have a question. After replacing the thermistor and running the PID auto-tuning, the printer worked great for several small prints, so I went for a large, 2 day print. It seems to be holding very well at 200c, until after a full day, I'm noticing the temp swing pretty dramatically- suddenly drops to 190 and sinks to about @185 and goes back up and overshoots to @205 every few minutes. Thoughts as to why it starts after running well for hours?
Thankyou for a great no bullshit all round the houses video. Straight into what I needed to know brilliant, new sub :)
Was easy to follow even on home made one,
thanks!
Excellent explanation. So PID is basically cruise control.
you can also change the firmware for another that store the settings into the EPROM like Jyers o mriscoc pro firmware (and with many other features for the Ender3V2)
Sure, but that will have to wait for another video🙂
You saved me so much time... Thank you! I am subscribing.
you sir earned a like and a sub. Good video with no BS.
I might try this later. Thanks, pal
Great and clear video, helped a lot!
FYI for anyone using a sidewinder x2, you need to save the new values to your slicer before G28. i checked with artillery
Ooh, that's interesting. I didn't know that and have an X2. My PID tune seems fine but now I want to experiment 🤔 Thanks for this information 👍
@@RickyImpey yea i emailed them for support just to be sure after watching your guide and i quote this is what support said "The code needs to be on the first line, before G28."
Very good information, thank you.
Great, simple but informative video. I knew, basically, what it was but you explained it in a way that makes me want to go ahead & do it, Especially on my Ender 3 Pro that is giving me troubles with the hotend. Probably need to change the thermistor first, though. Just sub'd, too.
Awesome, glad it does what it's supposed to Jeff. It really is simple. I can't promise it'll fix everything but it won't hurt to rule something out.
Good video, I hope this also helps on my Ender-3 V3 SE.
I have a Ender 3 V2 neo I upgraded the firmware to pro it has a MPC setting for the hot end and it has a PID setting for the bed. Both Autotune. I stored the 200C and the MPC used that stored information when Tuning
My bed PID isn't showing up in Pronterface. Any ideas on how to solve this? Heating up the bed didn't work.
Thanks Ricky !
awesome thanks for this. i sent the pid info but i didn't get an echo return.. any ideas on why this would happen? (update) ok it didn't give me the echo, but i did do another m503 and the return information confirmed the new PID information was there. thanks!
thanks man
Cuando terminó el proceso de calcular el PID envío el comando M301 para el extrusor o el M304 para la cama caliente pero nunca se establecen los parámetros, solo dice "SENDING"
Thanks!
Thank you.
I dig this but am curious will this work on an ender 3s1? Thanks in advance!
Another great video. Can I use the same method for my Ender 3 S1 pro?
Nicely explained. :)
I am using sonic pad with 2 printers connected to it. Can I still do this and would it be beneficial?
Great 👍 thanks
Thank You sir CHEERS
Great video. I've used this method several times and it seems to help every time for a while, but I just ran into a problem where I'm trying to run the PID and it beeped at me angrily when I tried sending the fan code and gave me thermal runaway messages, so I needed to disconnect. Now it will no longer recognize the codes. It gives me the info when I send the M503, but it doesn't activate the fan or respond when I try to move the extruder through the program. I haven't even made it the point of running the auto-tune. Suggestions?
Great 👍
Great video, thanks for that. However when I did this the m500 didn't make the new data stick. Is there any other option for doing that, or maybe something that I don't know that I need to do? I have an Anycubic Kobra standard.
🔧 If you're encountering the 'PID Autotune failed! Bad heater ID' error while using the command M303 E-1 S60 C5, make sure to check your Marlin firmware settings. Specifically, ensure that PIDTEMPBED is enabled. In Marlin 2.1.2.3, this setting is turned off by default. Enabling it should resolve the issue!
@Ricky Impey: Thanks to your to the point videos which I was lucky to find as I started my journey a couple of months ago, my printer has been impeccable from the day one. I am also lucky that I have bought an Ender 3 V2 - the exact same printer as yours. One question - is my stock firmware (Creality V1.0.5) is the same Marlin firmware as you showed in this video? Or do I need to change it before I can use your instructions? Thanks in advance.
Hi, there is no need to change your firmware if you use Pronterface. It should all work exactly as shown. There are some firmware versions that let you do a PID tune directly on the printer and some 3d printers that won't let Pronterface send commands like this but your Ender 3 V2 will be fine👍
Good evening
I own an Ender 3V2 Neo and I would like to change the extruder and hotend for a direct drive, which would be the best model for my printer. I use PLA+ and PETG in general. Thank you for your help.
P.S. My motherboard and firmware allow a temperature of 250°C maximum.
Interesting. When I follow your instructions I make it through the tuning process until it says PID Autotune finished but I never get the final values. What could that be? Any ideas? Thanks.
Are you sure they're not a little bit further up? From memory I think they can sometimes be a little higher up above in the information.
@@RickyImpey I doesn't show the #define part. There are a three sets of pid values above. Can I just pick the last one?
@@RickyImpey It works now.
@@jerome1lm Great, did you do anything different? I didn't see your previous reply unfortunately.
@@RickyImpey I'm not sure. I compiled new firmware after which I couldn't connect to my computer anymore at all. Then I installed a ch341 driver which gave me a new com port and since then everything works exactly the way you show it. It's a bit weird but I take the win.
Your videos are very helpful.
My ender 3 neo recently started messing up. When I start a print it says extruder heating but never stabilizes so the print doesn't start. I did the pid auto tune thats in the configuration and seemed to fix it but started another print today and it did the same thing. Not sure what caused the issues. I only changed 3 things on the printer. I Installed a new cooling fan (factory replacment, nozzel but same size and upgraded my cura version.
It is possible I forgot to save my configurations after doing the pid auto tune so I will try again this evening.
Before I start this PID tuning, would it solve the following error message on my Artillery Genius? "Error:Heating Failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0"
PID tune is the first thing to try. If it doesn't work, you likely have a broken heater or thermistor.
@@RickyImpey Hi Ricky, I tried the PID tuning and unfortunately it didn't work. I received the following message: on pronterface:
SENDING:M303 E0 S220 C5
PID Autotune start
Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0
Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
So my newbie question is; are the heater and thermistor part of the same device? I'm about to buy a new extruder so I wanted to check with you first! Thanks again!
My Prontface terminal is stuck at sending the new values for the PID. Please help
Actually, I figured it out the extruder thing. It now says that my bed has a bad heater id.
Help!! I ran PID tuning on my ender 3 neo but when I tested it I got a thermal runaway message. Note I didn't run the fan as I print mostly with the fan off.
what is the reasoning for selecting 220C as the target temperature? Is it meant to be whatever temperature you most often print at?
Yes it is. I wanted to setup for PETG as I was printing with it a lot at the time so chose a temperature between PLA and PETG.
Ricky, can't seem to get any response about this. Have a new S8Pro from Sunlu and have run the PID tests on Pronterface. At the end of the test, all 3 come back with no numbers, just says default. Any thoughts?
Hello! I'm having an issue where every time I try to connect my printer to pronterface, it just says "none" for the port connection and I tried restarting both my printer and computer already. Please help :(
Hello! Please help. I only have one port under my drop down which is not connecting COM3 only. Could not connect to COM3 at baudrate 115200 serial error:could not open port COM3
Great info... but I'm a bit confused. So when saving the new PID values, the M500 command saves the values to the printer, correct? Or to the SD card in the printer? Do I have to do "Store settings" in the printer's menu as well?
Hi, what printer do you have? The M500 command is in effect the same as the 'store settings' button. The printer and firmware will determine where the PID tune is saved.
@@RickyImpey Ender 3 S1, running the Professional Firmware.
@@Shooter_FPV Ok, them your PID tune is saved to the EEPROM on the control board and not the SD card in your case.
@@RickyImpey Actually, not sure why I said SD card.. lol.. Was hoping it would save to EEPROM. Thanks for confirming, and thanks for the help!!
I commented 5 months ago about Pronterface no longer recognizing input commands like fan and extruder move. I'm still having the issue.
Hello Ricky! Thank you for VERY GOOOD content. I have question for you. After watching this video , I made attempt to do PID on my cheap 3D printer (DIGGRO ALPHA-5). It's printing very well but problems with temperature starts over 200-210 deg. C. Every thing over that is problem... What I mean: I set 220 its always 214 to 216, and it is with every higher temp. I connect my 3D printer to computer, open Pronterface and connect to printer, now we have stairs... It don't respons on command M503... Do you have any advice to over come this?
Have a good day!
Hi, I don't know that printer unfortunately. Some are configured in a way where they won't respond to g-code commands from Pronterface. This may be your problem if it won't respond.
M503 only return M301 and not M304 (heated bed). I'm using an Anycubic i3 Mega S, which I know it has heated bed. Any pointers?
Hi all, i didn't understand how to save the new settings for an Ender 3. You did say on the SD card but..for me it is very unclear how and where to do it. Any help will be very much appreciated. Thanks
Some machines save to the SD card, some save to the printers internal memory. You can't change where it saves without changing your firmware. I only mention it as some people have gone through the effort of tuning their settings only to change SD cards and wonder why their print results have changed.
Good afternoon- I followed your tutorial on and Ender 3 with Marlin firmware- it did work for the PID however your C5 command is invalid an even shows invalid in your video. Its quite misleading for people like me that depend on the experts like yourself. It doesn't like C5 and you would've seen that... I wonder if there's anther command to use to set the amount of cycles.. See 7:01 in your video- echo:Unknown command: "05"
When PID autotuning, my 3d printer started making a load beeping noise, and and error showed off and made me restart. I restarted and tried again but the same thing happened. Why is this happening and what can I do to fix this??
what do i do if my heated bed has 2 seperate heaters
Idk if this is new but my ender 3 has this feature built into the settings
Yes, some machines do now, it's a great help
I just got a new E3V2 less than a couple of months ago. Where do I find this feature built-in as you mentioned. TIA.
I tried to print with TPU on my ender 3 v2 neo and occasionally the temperature just drops to lower than printable temps, while when I try printing with PLA, everything is fine. Is this a problem I can fix with PID tuning?
Apologies if this has already been answered but with a ender 3 v2 running Octoprint, do I just enter the new pod settings in the start Gcode instead if I don’t use sdcard printing? Haven’t upgraded to mriscoc or Jyers yet as want to use stock for now. Thankyou
I recently purchased an all metal hotend for my ender 3. I'm assuming I should do a PID tune since I've changed a component. I have stock firmware, will I run into any issues using pronterface?
I'd say yes, I'd definitely PID tune after changing anything to do with the hot end. It should all be very straightforward on an Ender 3.
Thank you for the video.
I got a result for the hot end, but not the bed. Any ideas?
I've had a few printers and the Ender 5 is the worst that I've had.S ince I bought it, it's been nothing but problems.
Thanks again.
:)
What happens when you try to run a PID tune on the bed?
@@RickyImpey hi there. My Aptos for the delay. I'm not very well. Nothing shows up at all. I bought it as one of those returned units. Had a few issues, but after replacing the lead screw and extruder, I got better prints. It's an ender 5 with 270w psu.
Thank you for the reply.
Kind Regards
Thanks Ricky!
I bought an Ender 3 S1 PRO and PID values were very different and I noticed them from the main screen during printing.
Now I have to check if this work.
Do we need to do this for every material? I did it using 200° for PLA, but for PETG should be 220° I think right?
If so, do we need to specify PID values on every print depending on the material to ensure temp accuracy?
Hi, if you wanted it to be 100% perfect then technically yes you would do it for the different temperatures before you print at that temperature but nobody is going to do that. If I were you I would do the PID tune at 210°C and use it for both materials. That's basically what I do.
Think you know why my heated bed doesn't show up in the panel?
I tried doing PID tune, but proterface says PID tune failed. It timed out. Please help what could be causing it to time out. It never reached temp got to about 150 and it stopped
What printer do you have? Has any part related to the heating of the hotend been replaced?
I write down the steps to try them..but when you ender m303 e0 s220 c5 it comes with results:kp 23.36 ki 1.96 kd 69.74 and in the next step with m301 you put diffent values..22.05 despite 23.36 for p value 1.90 despite of 1.96 and 64.06 despite of 69.74 for d value?why?is there something that i misunderstood?
I probably filmed the test multiple times and missed that the two shots didn't match. Enter the results you get from your test.
Janie Saldana
1 minute ago
I have a Mac OS Monterey what program do I use to do a PID calibration for Anycubic Mega pro?
Can you not use Pronterface? It works on Mac too as far as I know but I don't have one myself.
What happens if the sd card needs to be reformatted? That happened to me, so what info do I need to make sure gets put back on the card?
Which printer do you have and what firmware? Generally, the PID tune will be saved to the EEPROM on the mainboard but some machines save to the SD card instead. If you have one that saves to the SD (Ender 3v2 on stock firmware) then after formatting, the printer will create a new EEPROM file but you would need to re-do any changes you have made like a PID tune.
@@RickyImpey I have an Ender 3v2 neo, purchased a few months ago, not sure what firmware. I did the PID tune and my temps are staying much more consistent. There is definitely a learning curve to 3d printing, but thanks to videos like yours I am getting the hang of it.
Would you do Heat Tower print before or after running PID tune? I'm asking because on the one hand the PID Tune requires to type in desired temperature which can be found by printing a Heat Tower however, printing a Heat Tower before PID tuning might give the "wrong result" ?
I would PID tune first. If you mainly print PLA use 200°C, PETG 240°C etc. 10° either way won't make much difference and you can always do it again at a later date if you see any fluctuation or you end up printing at a drastically different temperature. If I PID tune at PLA temps, I don't do another PID tune before I print PETG for the odd print, even though it needs much higher temps.
@@RickyImpey Makes sense. Thank you for the great content
Hi Rick. I am using the latest Mrisco firmware and when I try the autotune via Pronterface I get an error message saying "PID Autotune failed! Bad heater id". Do you or anyone reading this have any ideas please on why this would be happening? David
sounds like an error with the selected extruder. if you have only one this should be 0 but you could try another number
Awesome video! A few questions however.
1) How much is the bed and nozzle temps allowed to fluctuate while printing?
2) How many cycles should the tune be? The “C” value should be what? The higher, the better?
I did a PID tune on both bed and nozzle. But they fluctuate +/- 2 degrees. That acceptable? Normal?
A couple of degrees is fine. If you want to find out, run a test print and manually change the temperature in each direction until you see a difference. Then you will have a range that you can work within. A temperature tower effectively does the same thing. It does depend on the filament so there is no definitive answer. I tend to go for between 5-10 cycles on a PID tune.