2015 VW Passat Front Cam & Crank Shaft Oil Seal Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2020
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Pretty sure you have put both seals in backwards. It requires a special tool VWT10053 to fit the seal correctly. I can see why you fitted it this way but it's not correct. The torque setting for crank bolt is 120NM then add a 1/4 turn. Lock tool VW3415 will screw into the crank pulley and hold the crank in place to carry out this tightening but make sure the belt is on and timed to prevent internal damage. 👍
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Very helpful. I am gonna do this today on a Tiguan 2012.
Good luck
nice work, thanks for help!!!
Best and only video I could find on doing the crank seal much appreciated man
Thank you, hope it helped you out
Great and informative video - thanks.
You mention there's a separate video on the belt change? Cannot find it.
Sorry I thought I done a video on that my bad next one I'll do it sorry about that
The cam shaft seal came out the opposite way to which way you put the new one in
Great video and I also agree, can’t find anything online about how to hold the counterhold crank shaft to torque it after installing the new seal? How did you hold it to torque that crank bolt, I think it’s 150NM
Al be honest I have a electric gun which is really powerful so just tighten it up with that
Do you have a video of 2013 passat 3.6 main rear seal replacement
I dont sorry. Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Could you provide the part #'s you used? trying to confirm I have the right ones.
Al trh getting you the part numbers
I am currently working on replacing camshaft and crankshaft seals. I will be posting my photos and a few videos on the TDI Club forums for 2014 VW Passat TDI CKRA engine.
Raul, although you completed this job, there are a couple of issues I wanted to raise. First, you did a great job removing seal with a screwdriver. However, for a novice that may try to repeat this, screwdriver may scratch camshaft or crankshaft journal. Any miniscule scratch will prevent proper sealing, requiring either refinishing the shaft or replacing the cam or crank. That is too pricey. A proper VW tool is around $60 or so. Made my job easier.
Second, most glaring mistake is that you put oil on the seal! You could oil the old style seals that use a spring, but you must never oil/grease the PTFE seal. You install it dry. Being that is PTFE, it will be unable to transfer Teflon material onto the shaft and cause immediate leak. For this reason, you wipe cam and crank journals dry before installing. You're trying to avoid any oil or particulate residue. Then push them on dry.
Lastly, camshaft center bolt is tightened to 100Nm without bolt stretching. The crankshaft bolt requires a brand new bolt each time as it is a stretch bolt. You would tighten to 120Nm then 90 degrees stretch. You will actually end up close to 400Nm of force at the end of the 90 degree. That is a lot, requires massive countehold tool and a driver with a piple to push. This is crucial to get this right. You need a counterhold tool for both cam and crank to accomplish this safely. Just FYI.
Thanks for watching really appreciate it and thanks for the advice. I straight up honest the car is still fine no issues. Also I always tighten up with my gun which has the power of 1500nm if I carry on tightening up with that it will snap the bolt that's how powerful that gun is. But I still double check it. Thanks anyway
@@TEAMR4ULTV Thank you for your reply. I am sure there are many ways to get same outcome. Those are just pointers that differed from official VW manual (ErWIN). I spent 1.5 days doing this, something as a pro you probably completed within a few hours. But this is the first time I worked on seals and timing belt, hence being so slow. Thanks for your video, it gave me lots of courage to DIY! Just posted my guide to TDI Club, maybe someone can find it useful.
Thanks for the amazing video. How much would does it cost this reparation?
For full job parts and labour around about £350
Hi Raul. Could you please give me address of you garage? I WOULD LIKE MATE TO BRING MY CAR TO YOU. TRHUSTY MAN.. PLEASE. VOLSVAGEN TOURAN 2.0 SPORT 2012 TDI.
Is there a key or flat spot on the crank to ensure the pulley goes back on as it came off? Thanks
It's like a woodruff key
19mm in ckra passat 2014 in usa
Is this process the same for a 2013 Golf TDI 2.0? I can’t find anything about the crankshaft oil seal replacement online!
Pretty much the same, you just have to check if it's the one with the electronic water pump then slightly different. If you want check my video on the one with the electronic water pump
@@TEAMR4ULTV cool I’ll look into it
Not meant to use oil on ptfe seals mate and seal bullet tool stops them from tearing on keyway and not torquing down wouldn’t recommend
Yeah I noticed that too. Have you ever had a ptfe seal leak after using oil on it?
Agree instructions usually say dry install and leave for a few hours for the seal to form back around shaft before running,, the first one I ever did I lubed many years ago and it leaked been dry ever since
When you removed the crankshaft central nut, the shaft moved to the left. How did you torque the central nut without turning crankshaft itself?
my bad should have shown you, either take the starter motor off or the way I do it there is a little plate on the gearbox held on with a 10mm bolt next to the inner cv joint drivers side (uk) take that off and you have to jam the FLYWHEEL with a flat head screwdriver or chisel or something
@@TEAMR4ULTV that is a very important step to leave out 😳
You can use VAG tool T3415 or make one yourself
Is it same for a vw golf mk7 1.6tdi engine?
I think its different
Does the cam not move or shift with no locking pin to pull the gear off?
Even if the cams move dont worry use the pins when refitting you should be ok
What are the symptoms..? My skoda superb 2.0 cr tdi is leaking oil on the back of the engine, but i can 't see where it's coming from....
Most of the time if it's the crank and cam seals it leaks from the timing belt side. As for your car might be the rocker gasket the gasket for the oil feed the turbo etc need to have a look really.
Where can i get the timing tool from (cheap)
Just go on eBay VW Timming Tool
Do you need to drain the oil before replacing the crank seal?
No you dont need to
hahhaaaa
How do you lock the crankshaft so it doesn't move?
There is a tool to lock it on the FLYWHEEL but if you haven't got that tool which I haven't then do it this way.
There is a little cut out near the driveshaft which you can get a pry bar or big screwdriver in. Mark the fly wheel with something tip ex etc then jam the FLYWHEEL and take off with height power electric gun. If the mark move just go to the mark you made hope that explains it
Did you put the seal in backwards ?
I put the seal on the way the old one came off exactly same way
Think you've put both those oil seals in the wrong way.
Car is still ok no issues I think its ok